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Aaccommodations 371-3, see also

individual locationsactivities 18, 21-3Agato 102 air travel

to/from Ecuador 381-2 to/from Galápagos Islands 332within Ecuador 383-4 within Galápagos Islands 332

airports, international 381 Alausí 160Ali Shungu Mountaintop Lodge 101Aloasí 122-3altitude sickness 74, 374Amazon 180-81, 210, 353, 359, 366Ambato 136-9, 136Apuela 104 archaeological museums, see also

museums Agua Blanca 260 Casa de los Marqueses de

Miraflores 128 Casa del Alabado 53Museo de las Culturas Aborígenes

169 Museo del Banco Central (Cuenca)

169 Museo del Banco Central (Manta)

253Museo Lópes Abad 179Museo Manuel Agustín Landivar169Museo Presley Norton 280

archaeological sites Chirije 253Cochasquí 100Ingapirca 164-5Parque Nacional Machalilla 259-61

Archidona 216architecture

colonial 18, 49-56, 106-7, 153-5, 165-77, 352

art 56Escuela Quiteña 355Museo Nacional 61Tigua paintings 133

artisan crafts 56, see also markets, shopping

basketwork 240, 256carpets 156ceramics 175cheese-making 152chumbis 165leather 156panama hats 165, 174, 175, 179-80,

256saddlebags 193-4shigras 157tagua carving 147, 157textiles 179-80totora crafts 99, 156, 158, 159weaving 96, 101-2, 140, 193wickerwork 256woodworking 134, 179-80

Atacames 242-4, 243ayahuasca 205, 212, 366Azogues 165

BBaeza 200Bahía de Caráquez 250-3, 251Baños 14, 140-7, 142-3, 14

accommodations 144-5courses 143drinking & entertainment 146-7food 146shopping 146sights & activities 141-3

Baños village 179basketwork 240, 256beaches 9

Atacames 242-4Canoa 248-50Cerro Brujo 310El Garrapatero Beach 300La Lobería 312Manta 253Mompiche 247-8Montañita 265-6Muisne 246-7Ochoa Beach 310Olón 265Parque Nacional Machalilla 260Playas 271Puerto Chino 311Puerto Grande 312Puerto López 262Punta Cormorant 324Punta Estrada Beach 300Salinas 269

Same 244San Pedro 238Tortuga Bay 301

Biblián 165bike travel, see mountain-bikingbird sanctuaries

Milpe Bird Sanctuary 115Parque Cóndor 93-4Río Silanche Sanctuary 115

birdsalbatross 263Andean condors 93, 124blue-footed boobies 259, 263, 264,

309, 310, 338coastal parrots 259cocks-of-the-rock 114Darwin’s finches 322-3, 336Ecuadorian hillstars 124El Oro parakeets 294flightless cormorants 322frigate birds 259, 263 309, 339great green macaws 265, 272hood mockingbirds 325hummingbirds 266Jocotoco Antpitta 193Nazca boobies 309, 325-6oystercatchers 325pelicans 259, 263pink flamingos 324, 336red-billed tropicbirds 325-6red-footed boobies 263, 325-6waders 319-22waved albatross 325, 339

bird-watching 31-2, 364Baeza 200books 364Bosque Nublado Santa Lucía 112Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco 272Galápagos Islands 311, 318, 319,

324Intag Cloud Forest Reserve 104Isla Salango 264Jorupe Reserve 194 Loma Alta 266Lower Río Napo 210-13Milpe Sanctuary 117Mindo 114Parque Cóndor 93-4Parque Nacional Cajas 178 Parque Nacional Cotopaxi 124-7Parque Nacional Machalilla 259-61Parque Nacional Podocarpus 187-8Parque Nacional Sangay 149-51 Parque Nacional Sumaco-Galeras

215Reserva Bellavista 113Reserva Biológica Guandera 110

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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INDEX B

-C

bird-watching continuedReserva Biológica Los Cedros

105-6Reserva Biológica Maquipucuna

112-13Reserva Ecológica de Manglares

Cayapas Mataje 237Reserva Ecológica El Ángel 109Reserva Ecológica Manglares

Churute 290Reserva Producción Faunística

Cuyabeno 204-6Ruta Ecológica 140Salinas 269Siempre Verde 104Tandayapa 112Tinalandia 235tours 263, 269

boat travelcanoe 209, 384Galápagos Islands 36-40, 332, 384Isla de la Plata 263Nuevo Rocafuerte 213Reserva Ecológica Cotacachi-

Cayapas 240 Río Nangaritza 188 Río Napo 213, 224 San Miguel 238-9to/from Peru 213

Bolívar, Simón 101, 273, 281, 352-3books 346, 354

bird-watching guide 364ecosystems 367Galápagos Islands 329history 351, 357rainforest 366Shuar people 358

border crossingsto/from Colombia 111-12, 201-3,

237, 377, 382 to/from Peru 186-7, 193, 194, 195,

213, 295, 382 budget 16, 40business hours 372bus travel

local buses 386to/from Ecuador 382trucks as buses 386within Ecuador 384-5

CCañar 165Camino del Inca 19, 25, 31, 160,

164, 351camping 371

Parque Nacional Cajas 178Parque Nacional Cotopaxi 125Parque Nacional Machalilla 261Parque Nacional Podocarpus 187Parque Nacional Sangay 150

Canoa 248-50Cantalapiedra 264 Capilla del Hombre 57Carnaval 21car travel

driver’s license 385hazards 385insurance 385organizations 385Quito 86rental 385to/from Ecuador 382within Ecuador 385

carpets 156Catacocha 194cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralsCayambe 92cell phones 17, 377-8central highlands 42, 119-60, 120-1

accommodations 119climate 119food 119highlights 120-1travel seasons 119

ceramics 175chicha 225, 237children, travel with 372-3

Parque Recreacional Jipiro 181-2Quito 66

Chordeleg 179 Chugchilán 133-4chumbis 165churches & cathedrals

Ambato cathedral 138 Basílica de Nuestra Señora de

Agua Santa (Baños) 141 Basílica del Voto Nacional (Quito)

50Catedral de la Inmaculada

Concepción (Cuenca) 168-9La Compañía de Jesús (Quito) 55La Merced (Quito) 50 Our Lady of Macas Cathedral

(Macas) 228 Quito cathedral 49

climate 16, 21-3, see also individual regions

climbing, see mountaineeringcloud forests 112-13, 366

Bosque Nublado Santa Lucía 112Chugchilán 133Jima 179lodges 112-13

Loma Alta 266Machay 148Mindo 115Olón 265Parque Nacional Llanganates 140Parque Nacional Machalilla 261Parque Nacional Podocarpus 187Parque Nacional Sumaco-Galeras

215Reserva Bellavista 113Reserva Biológica Maquipucuna

112-13 Reserva Buenaventura 294Ruta Ecológica 140Tandayapa 112

Coca 206-9, 206consulates 373-4Cordillera Chongón-Colonche 265Correa, Rafael 346-7, 357, 369Cotacachi 102-3courses, see also language courses

Baños 143Cuenca 170Hacienda Cusín 101mountaineering 156organic agriculture 250Otavalo 94-5PADI certification 301Quito 62-5Vilcabamba 191

crafts, see artisan craftsCuenca 9, 165-77, 166-7, 9

accommodations 171-2courses 170drinking & entertainment 174-5festivals & events 171food 172-4internet access 176internet resources 176medical services 176postal services 176shopping 174-6sights & activities 167-70tourist information 176tours 170-1travel to/from 176travel within 177

cultural centersAlliance Française (Guayaquil) 287Casa de Cultura (Guayaquil) 287Casa de la Cultura Ecuatoriana

(Loja) 181Casa de la Cultura (Latacunga) 127Casa de las Artes (Quito) 55Centro Cultural Esmeraldas 240Centro Cultural (Ibarra) 107Centro Cultural Itchimbia (Quito)

56

401IN

DEX C-H

Centro Cultural Metropolitano (Quito) 50

Centro Ecuatoriano Norteamericano (Guayaquil) 287

Galápagos Academic Institute for the Arts & Sciences 317

Mamá Kinua Cultural Center (Cuenca) 170

cultural heritage sites 194currency 16customs regulations 373cuy (guinea pig) 47, 92, 130, 173, 185cycling, see mountain-biking

Ddangers, see safe travelDarwin, Charles 327, 330de Orellana, Francisco 353discount cards 373diving 34

certification 301Galápagos Islands 301, 312-3,

325, 326, Montañita 266 Muisne 246Puerto López 261-2tours 36-9, 301, 331

doldrums 363 Dos Mangas 266drugs 377

EEl Ángel 109-10El Pital 265, 266electricity 373embassies 373-4emergencies 17environmental issues 367-9

conservation efforts 105, 115, 250flower industry 102Galápagos Islands 330-2mangroves 248oil industry 203, 204, 214, 346-7,

354-5overfishing 329power plants 201

equator 87, 88, 92Volcán Chimborazo 152-3

Escuela Quiteña 355Esmeraldas 240-2, 241events 21-3exchange rates 17

Ffestivals & events 20, 21-3

Carnaval 21 Chonta Festival 21, 230Feria Mundial del Banano 23, 290

Fiesta de Frutas y Flores 21, 137Fiestas de Quito 47, 65-6 Fiesta de la Mamá Negra 23, 130Fiesta del Yamor 23, 95-6Inti Raymi 22, 96, 171, 362 Kasama 237Otavalo 95-6running of the bulls 140Semana Santa 21Virgen del Cisne 23, 184

films 346, 360fishing

Puerto López 262Salinas 33, 269tours 262, 269

flower industry 102flowers 136food 47, 374

Baños 146cooperatives 151guinea pig 47, 92, 130, 173, 185ice cream 108Latacunga 129-30Loja 185north coast 245quinoa 149Santa Sopa 173southern highlands 185

GGalápagos Islands 6, 43, 296-332,

298accommodations 296budget travel 40camping 37, 311, 312, 317climate 35, 296diving tours 38food 296highlights 298history 326-7internet resources 297Interpretation Center 317planning 35-40, 297tours 36-9, 331travel seasons 296travel to/from 297, 332travel within 297, 332

Galápagos penguins 316, 318, 319, 322, 323, 338

gay travelers 374geography 363Girón 179Gonzanamá 193Gualaceo 179 Gualaquiza 232Guamote 159-60Guantualo 134 Guaranda 151

Guayaquil 14, 273-90, 274-5, 278-9, 14

accommodations 282-3drinking & entertainment 285-7emergencies 287festivals & events 281food 283-5internet access 287medical services 287postal services 288shopping 287sights & activities 273-9tourist information 288tours 281travel to/from 288-9travel within 289-90

guinea pigs 47, 92, 130, 173, 185

Hhabitat 365-7handicrafts, see artisan craftshealth 374-5hiking 19, 30-1, 61, 386

Baños 142-3Bosque Nublado Santa Lucía 112Bosque Protegido Washapamba

180Camino del Inca 25, 160, 164, 351Cotacachi 103Dos Mangas 266Girón 179Intag Valley 104Isinliví 134-5 Isla de la Plata 262La Escalinata 140Laguna Limpiopungo 125Laguna Quilotoa 132Lagunas de Atillo 150-1Lagunas de Mojanda 99-100Parque Nacional Cajas 164, 178Parque Nacional Cotopaxi 124-7Parque Nacional Podocarpus 164,

187-8Parque Nacional Sangay 231Paute 179Principal 180Puerto López 262Quilotoa Loop 131-6Refugio José Rivas 125Reserva Bellavista 113Reserva Biológica Los Cedros 105Reserva Biológica Maquipucuna

112-13Reserva Ecológica

Cayambe-Coca 92Reserva Ecológica

Cotacachi-Cayapas 104, 239-40Reserva Ecológica Los Ilinizas

123-4

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INDEX H

-L

hiking continuedReserva Ecológica Manglares

Churute 290Rucu Pichincha 61Siempre Verde 104Vilcabamba 191Volcán Carihuairazo 152-3Volcán Chimborazo 152-3Volcán El Altar 150Volcán Reventador 200-1Volcán Sangay 150

history 348-57books 351, 359colonial period 352discovery of oil 354-5Inca empire 349-50independence 352-3pre-Inca period 348-9Spanish conquistadors 351-2

hitchhiking 385-6hot springs, see thermal springshorseback-riding 32, 386

Baños 143Canoa 248Cayambe 92Chugchilán 133cloud forests 113, 261 Cuenca 170Dos Mangas 266El Pital 265Isla de la Plata 262Lagunas de Atillo 150-1Las Palmeras 99Mindo 114, 117Otavalo 95, 99, 101Parque Nacional Cotopaxi 126Parque Nacional Machalilla 261Principal 180Puerto López 262, 265Quilotoa Loop 133Río Muchacho Organic Farm 250Ruta Ecológica 140Salinas 151Saraguro 180Tena 217Vilcabamba 190-1

IIbarra 106-8, 106Ilumán 102Inca culture

Alausí 160

Camino del Inca 19, 25, 31, 160, 164, 351

colonization of Ecuador 349-51Cuenca 169Ingapirca 164-5, 351 Inti Raymi 22, 96, 171, 362lost treasure 140, 351, 353 Museo del Banco Central 169Parque Nacional Llanganates 140 quinoa 149Templo del Sol 88

indigenous peoples & culture 20, 21-3, 92-3, 105, 170, 358-9, 15

Afro-Ecuadorian 236, 238, 361Agato people 99 Centro Interamericano de Artes

Populares 169Chachi people 240, 359Chonta Festival 21, 230Cofán people 202-3, 359Guamote 159-60Huaorani people 209, 214-15, 359Ilumán people 99 Kapawi Ecolodge & Reserve 231Kichwa people 211-13, 358Museo de las Culturas Aborígenes

169Parque Nacional Machalilla 260Peguche people 99 Playa de Oro Reserva de

Tigrillos 238, 239Puruhá people 153Reserva Producción Faunística

Cuyabeno 204-6Riobamba 153-4 Salasaca 139-40Saraguro 180-1, 188Shuar people 188, 228-9, 359Tagaeri people 215Taromenani people 215Tigua 133tours 180-1, 202-3, 205, 217, 227,

228, 235Tsáchila people 235, 237

Ingapirca 164-5 insurance

car 385health 375

Intag Valley 104-5internet access 375internet resources 17

Cuenca 176Loja 186Quito 47

Inti Raymi 22, 96, 171, 362Isinliví 134-5Isla Bartolomé 323Isla de la Plata 262, 263Isla Española 325, 13

Isla Fernandina 322Isla Genovesa 325-6Isla Isabela 316-22, 318Isla Mosquera 309Isla San Cristóbal 310-16, 311Isla San Salvador 322-3Isla Santa Cruz 298-309, 299Isla Santa Fé 310Isla Santa María 324-5Isla Seymour 309Islas Daphne 309-10 Islas Plazas 309itineraries 24-9, 24, 25, 26, 28, 29

JJambelí 293Jima 179jungle lodges 372

Bosque Nublado Santa Lucía 112Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco 272Lower Río Napo 210-13Mindo 116, 118Playa de Oro Reserva de

Tigrillos 239Reserva Producción Faunística

Cuyabeno 204-6Tena 219-20Tiguino 209Upper Río Napo 223-5volunteering 379

jungle trips 205Baños 143Macas 229Misahuallí 222Puyo 228Playa de Oro 238, 239Tena 216-7Kapawi Ecolodge & Reserve 231

KKapawi Ecolodge & Reserve 231 Kasama 237

LLa Compañía de Jesús 55La Esperanza 108-9La Mitad del Mundo 87, 88La Nariz del Diablo 159, 386La Ruta de las Cascadas 147-9 La Virgen del Cisne 184Lago Agrio 201-2Laguna de San Pablo 101, 101Lagunas de Atillo 150-1 Lagunas de Mojanda 99-101land iguanas 279, 301, 309, 310, 312

6, 341language 16, 387-92

403IN

DEX L-Nlanguage courses, see also courses

371, 375 Baños 143Cuenca 170Otavalo 94 -5 Quito 62, 64, 380Río Muchacho Organic Farm 250San Pablo del Lago 101Vilcabamba 191

Latacunga 127-31, 128-9accommodations 129-30food 129-30sights & activities 127-8tours 128-9

lava 324, 344lava lizards 310, 322-3, 340leather 156legal matters 375-6Loja 181-7, 182Lower Río Napo 210-13

MMacas 228, 229Machachi 122-3Machala 290-3, 291mangroves 248, 272, 367

Reserva Ecológica Manglares Churute 290

Manta 253-6, 254-5marine iguanas 309, 319, 322, 325,

340markets 19

Alausí 160Ambato 136, 138Apuela 104Archidona 216artisan crafts 179Atacames 244Azogues 165Baños 146, 147Cañar 165Canoa 249Catacocha 194Chordeleg 179Coca 206Cotacachi 103Cuenca 167, 174-5El Ángel 109Gualaceo 179Guamote 159Guantualo 134Guaranda 151Guayaquil 276, 287Latacunga 127Machachi 122Otavalo 92-4, 8Quito 74, 79, 82Riobamba 154-5, 157

Salasaca 139-40Saquisilí 135Saraguro 180-1Sigsig 180Zumbahua 132

media 372Mindo 13, 113-17, 13

accommodations 115-17, 118bird-watching guides 114-15food 117jungles lodges 116, 118 sights and activities 113-14tourist information 117tours 114-15travel to/from 117

Mindo Cloudforest Foundation 115mineral springs, see thermal springsMisahuallí 221-3mobile phones 17Mompiche 247-8monasteries

San Agustín 51San Diego 55San Francisco 51Santa Catalina 51

money 16, 17, 294, 376discount card 373safe travel 377tipping 376

Montañita 13, 265-8, 13Montecristi 256motorcycle travel

Quito 86rental 385to/from Ecuador 382

mountain-biking 33, 61, 64, 384Baños 142La Ruta de las Cascadas 147-9Lagunas de Atillo 150-1Parque Nacional Cotopaxi 124-7Parque Nacional Machalilla 261Paute 179Puerto López 262Quito 64Río Chota valley 109Ruta Ecológica 140Saraguro 180Volcán Carihuairazo 152Volcán Cayambe 92 Volcán Chimborazo 152

mountaineering 19, 32-3 Baños 143 courses 156Loma Cubilche 108Parque Nacional Cotopaxi 124-7Reserva Ecológica Los Ilinizas

123-4Volcán Carihuairazo 152-3

Volcán Cayambe 92 Volcán Chiles 111Volcán Chimborazo 152-3Volcán Imbabura 108

Muisne 246-7Museo Nacional (Quito) 61museums, see also archaeological

museumsCapilla del Hombre 57Casa del Alabado 53Centro de Arte Contemporáneo 55Centro Interamericano de Artes

Populares 169Instituto Otaveleño de

Antropología 94Museo Antropológico y de Arte

Contemporáneo 276Museo Camilo Egas 50Museo de Arte Colonial 50Museo de Arte Moderna &

Instrumentos Musicales 56Museo de Arte Moderno 167Museo de Arte Religioso 154Museo de Ciencias Naturales 137Museo de la Ciudad 51Museo de las Culturas Aborígenes

169Museo Franciscano 51Museo Guayasamín 57Museo Municipal 280Museo Nacional 61 Museo Solar Inti Ñan 87Quito Observatory 56

music 356, 360-2

Nnational parks 122, 367, 368, see

also parks & gardens, reservesParque Nacional Cajas 164, 177-9,

178Parque Nacional Cotopaxi 122,

124-7, 124, 12Parque Nacional Llanganates

122, 140Parque Nacional Machalilla 259-61Parque Nacional Podocarpus 164,

187-8, 11Parque Nacional Sangay 122,

149-51, 231Parque Nacional Sumaco-Galeras

215Parque Nacional Yasuní 214-15, 8

newspapers 372north coast 43, 233-56, 234

accommodations 233climate 233food 233, 245highlights 234travel seasons 233

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404

INDEX N

-R

northern highlands 41, 90-118, 91accommodations 90climate 90food 90highlights 91travel seasons 90

OOlón 265Oriente 42, 196-232, 198-9

accommodations 196climate 196food 196highlights 198-9 travel seasons 196

Otavalo 8, 92-9, 94, 8accommodations 96-7courses 94-5emergencies 99entertainment 98festivals & events 95-6food 98-9medical services 98postal services 99sights 93-4tourist information 99tours 95travel to/from 98weaving 96

Oyacachi 92

PPalacio del Gobierno 49panama hats 165, 174, 175, 179-80,

256Panamericana 158Papallacta 10, 197-200, 10parks & gardens, see also national

parks, reserves Jardín Botánico 57La Mitad del Mundo 87, 88Parque Cóndor 93Parque El Ejido 56Parque Omaere 225-6

Parque Nacional Cajas 164, 177-9, 178Parque Nacional Cotopaxi 12, 122,

124-7, 124, 12 Parque Nacional Machalilla 259-61Parque Nacional Podocarpus 11, 164,

187-8, 11Parque Nacional Sangay 122, 149-51,

231Parque Nacional Yasuní 8, 214-5, 8passports 381

Paute 179Peguche 101-2petrified forest 293Pizarro, Francisco 350-1planning, see also individual regions

budgeting 16-17calendar of events 21-3Ecuador basics 16-17Ecuador’s regions 41-3Galápagos Islands 35-40itineraries 24-9, 24-9travel seasons 16, 21-3

Playa de Oro 238, 239Playas 271-2postal service 376pre-Inca peoples 164, 165, 167,

259-60, 273, 348-9Principal 180public holidays 376-7Puerto Ayora 300-9, 302-3 Puerto Baquerizo Moreno 312-16,

314-15 Puerto Bolívar, 293Puerto López 11, 33, 261-4, 11Puerto Villamil 319-22 Punta Suárez 13, 325, 13Puyo 225-7, 228 226

QQuilotoa 132-3Quilotoa Loop 10, 131-6, 131, 10

Chugchilán 133-4Isinliví 134Quilotoa 132-3Sigchos 134Tigua 132travel within 134-5Zumbahua 132

Quito 6, 41, 46-87, 48, 68-9, 6, 10accommodations 46, 66-73activities 61children, travel with 66climate 46courses 62-5drinking 79-80emergencies 84entertainment 80-2festivals & events 47, 65-6food 46, 47, 73-9for children 66founding 23highlights 47, 48history 49internet access 84internet resources 47, 84itineraries 50medical services 84new town 56-61, 58-9

old town 49-55, 52-3postal services 84safe travel 83-4shopping 82-3sights 49-61tourist information 84tours 62, 62-5travel seasons 46travel to/from 85-6travel within 86-7walking tours 63, 63

Rrafting, see also white-water rafting

Baeza 200Baños 143Canoa 248Tena 216-17

reserves 122, see also national parks, parks & gardens

Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco 272Bosque Protegido Washapamba

180 Charles Darwin Research Station

300-1El Bosque Petrificado Puyango 293El Chato Tortoise Reserve 299Galapaguera 311Intag Cloud Forest Reserve 104Ítapoa Reserve 118Los Galápagos 311Playa de Oro Reserva de Tigrillos

238, 239Rancho Primicias 299Refugio Ecológico Tzanka 188Reserva Bellavista 113Reserva Biológica Bilsa 239Reserva Biológica Guandera 110Reserva Biológica Los Cedros

105-6Reserva Biológica Maquipucuna

112-13Reserva Buenaventura 294Reserva de Producción Faunística

Chimborazo 152-3Reserva Ecológica Cayambe-

Coca 92Reserva Ecológica Cotacachi-

Cayapas 92, 103-4, 239-40Reserva Ecológica de Manglares

Cayapas Mataje 237-8Reserva Ecológica El Ángel 92, 109Reserva Ecológica Los Ilinizas

123-4Reserva Ecológica Manglares

Churute 290Reserva Geobotánica Pululahua

87-9Reserva Producción Faunística

Cuyabeno 204-6

405IN

DEX R-V

Tapichalaca Reserve 193Río Mira Valley 110 Río Muchacho Organic Farm 250Riobamba 153-8, 154-5robbery 377Ruta Ecológica 140

Ssafe travel

Atacames 242ayahuasca 212Baños 147drugs 377Esmeraldas 240Galápagos Islands 39-40Guayaquil 273Lago Agrio 201-2money 377Quito 83-4road 385robbery 377scams 377theft 377trouble spots 377Volcán Pichincha 89women 380

Salasaca 139-40Salinas (central highlands) 151-2 Salinas (south coast) 269-70Same 244-6, 9San Lorenzo 236-7San Miguel 238San Pedro 238San Rafael Falls 201Santo Domingo de los Colorados 235Saquisilí 135-6Saraguro 180-1scams 377sea lions 309, 310, 324, 335Semana Santa 21shopping, see artisan crafts, markets,

individual locationsSigchos 134Sigsig 180south coast 43, 257-95, 258

accommodations 257climate 257food 257highlights 258travel seasons 257

southern highlands 42, 161-95, 162-3accommodations 161climate 161food 161highlights 162-3travel seasons 161

Spanish colonial era 351-2Súa 244

Sucúa 232surfing 34

Canoa 248-50Mompiche 247-8Montañita 265-6, 13Playa Punta Carola 317Playas 271Puerto Baquerizo Moreno 312-3Puerto Villamil 320Salinas 269

Ttaxis 386TelefériQo 10, 56, 10telephone services 17, 377-8Tena 216-21, 218thermal springs

Baños (central highlands) 141 Baños (southern highlands) 179Grutas de la Paz 109Nangulví 104-5Oyacachi 92Papallacta 197-200, 10Parque Acuático Los Elenes 156Tulcán 110Vilcabamba 191

Tigua 132 Tiguino 209time 378tipping 376toilets 378tortoises 326, 331, 333, 340

Centro de Crianza de Tortugas 319-22

Charles Darwin Research Station 300-1

El Chato Tortoise Reserve 299Los Galápagos 311Rancho Primicias 299Volcán Alcedo 317

totora crafts 99, 156, 158, 159tourist information 378tours 386, see also individual

locationsbird-watching 263, 269camping 39, 171, 207, 217, 222,

262, 303diving 38, 301fishing 262, 269gold mine 294indigenous peoples & culture

180-1, 202-3, 205, 217, 227, 228, 235

Reserva Producción Faunística Cuyabeno 204-6

whale-watching 251, 261, 262, 269train travel 86, 159, 386travel to/from Colombia 111-12, 201-2,

237, 377, 382

travel to/from Ecuador 381-2travel to/from Peru 186-7, 193, 194,

195, 289, 294, 295, 213, 382travel within Ecuador 383-6travelers with disabilities 378 trekking, see hikingtruck travel 386tzantza 56, 61, 169, 349, 359Tulcán 110-12

UUpper Río Napo 223-5

VVilcabamba 12, 189-93, 190, 12visas 17, 378-9volcanoes 97

Avenue of the Volcanoes 138Galápagos Islands 328Parque Nacional Sangay

149-51Reserva Ecológica Los Ilinizas

123-4Volcán Carihuairazo 152-3Volcán Cayambe 15, 92, 15Volcán Chiles 111Volcán Chimborazo 122, 152-3Volcán Cotacachi 103Volcán Cotopaxi 12, 124-5, 127, 12Volcán El Altar 150Volcán Imbabura 101, 108Volcán Pichincha 89Volcán Reventador 200-1Volcán Sangay 150Volcán Sierra Negra 317Volcán Sumaco 215Volcán Tungurahua 136, 140, 147,

149-50Volcanes Atacazo 235Volcanes Corazón 235

volunteer organizations 379-80 volunteering 379

AmaZOOnico 224Andean Bear Conservation Project

104Bosque de Paz 110Bosque Nublado Santa Lucía 112Butterfly Farm 221Ítapoa Reserve 118jungle lodges 379Merazonia Foundation 148Mindo Animal Rescue 115Refugio Ecológico Tzanka 188Reserva Biológica Guandera 110Reserva Biológica Los Cedros 105Río Muchacho Organic Farm 250

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406

INDEX W

-Z

Wwaterfalls

Baños 140-1Cascadas de Peguche 102Dos Mangas 266Girón 179Gualaquiza 232La Ruta de las Cascadas 147-9Las Cascadas de Paluz 109 Mindo 113 Misahuallí 221Parque Nacional Podocarpus 188Principal 180 Reserva Biológica Bilsa 239San Rafael Falls 201Saraguro 180Tena 216-7Vilcabamba 191

weather 16, 21-3, see also individual regions

weavingAgato 102Gonzanamá 193Ilumán 102Otavalo 96Peguche 101-2

Salasaca 140whale-watching 11, 334

Isla de la Plata 262, 263Parque Nacional Machalilla 261Puerto López 11, 33, 261-2Salinas 269 tours 251, 261, 262, 269

white-water rafting 34, see also rafting

Macas 228-9Tena 216-17

wickerwork 256 wildlife 363-5, 333-44wildlife centers

AmaZOOnico 224Andean Bear Conservation Project

(Intag Valley) 104Fundación Pro-Bosque 272Mindo 115Napo Wildlife Center 211Playa de Oro Reserva de

Tigrillos 238wildlife-watching 19

Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco 272Galápagos Islands 296-332Lower Río Napo 210-13

Playa de Oro Reserva de Tigrillos 238

Reserva Biológica Bilsa 239Reserva Ecológica Cotacachi-

Cayapas 239-40Reserva Ecológica Manglares

Churute 290woodworking 134, 179-80women travelers 380work 380World Heritage Sites

Cuenca 165-77 Parque Nacional Sangay 149-51Quito 46-87

ZZamora 188-9Zaruma 294-5zip lining

Baños 140 Cantalapiedra 264Mindo 114

Zumbahua 132Zumba 193

407

Beach

Diving/Snorkelling

Sleeping

Eating

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity/Course/Tour

BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight

Entertainment

Shopping

DrinkingCafe

Post OfficeTourist Information

AirportBorder CrossingBus

CyclingFerryMetroMonorailParking

TaxiS-Bahn

Train/RailwayTramTube StationU-BahnOther Transport

Cable Car/Funicular

Walking TourDetour

Walking Tour

Path

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

PedestrianOverpass

Secondary

Unsealed Road

Tunnel

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

State/Province

Capital (National)Capital(State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

Beach/DesertCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)Park/ForestSportsgroundSight (Building)Top Sight(Building)

River/CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier

LighthouseHut/Shelter

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

Sights

Activities, Courses& Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking

Information

Transport

Geographic

Hydrography

Areas

Boundaries

Population

RoutesMap Legend

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F No payment required

S A green or sustainable option

Our authors have nominated these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to sustainability – for example by supporting local communities and producers, operating in an environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation projects.

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1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking

r Beaches z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment

2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping

C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/Transport

These symbols give you the vital information for each listing:% Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bush Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferryp Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metron Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subwaya Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly j Trami Internet Access # Pet-Friendly d Train

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393

Behind the Scenes

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Steve Bray, Lauren Burns, Aoife Byrne, Lani V Cox, Asa Cusack, Renate De Jonge, Nico-las Dubois, Lukasz Duda, Andrew Duniec, Caroline Evenden, Diego Torres Garzón, Mathias Gerth, Marshall Goldberg, Ricia Gordon, Desmond Graal Cullen, Markus Hauk, Katja Heijnen, Brent Helmkamp, Esther Hermans, Wally Johnson, Cleo Kale, Thomas Knoblauch, Dietmar Krumpl, Cath-rin Kurz, Jake Ling, Marcus Loane, Carl Lobitz, Vanessa Mcintyre, Elizabeth Meyrick, Greg Miier, Leslie Moore, Dan Morris, Eric Neemann, Darshan Neubauer, Lukas Nigg, Amber Novak, William Olvera, Maxime Peeters, Natalia Platonova, Daniel Richter, Thomas Schetty, Sonja Schoentag, Stefanie Schuster, Keela Shackell, Kati Sivula, Shelly Skaug, Agnethe Spangberg, Gera Stout, Mariët Struijk, Sebastián Pablo Taboada, Matt Van Der Peet, Erwin Van Liempd, Ray L Vansickle, Margaret Vile, Olivia Watson, Mark Weisbrot, Reto Westermann, Annie White, Brian White, Jason White, Daan Wijsman, Barbara Wilson, Elaine Wiltshire, Louisa Wood, Marie-louise Zimmermann

AUTHOR THANKS Regis St Louis Big thanks to the countless quiteños and expats for tips and insight: Dominic Hamilton at Metropolitan Touring; Patricio Gaybor and Luz Elena Coloma at Quito Turismo; Adriana and Fernando at Casa Gangotena; Santiago at Vibes; John and Eva at Happy Gringo; Silvia Garcia and Ritmo Salvaje for the salsa instruction; and Paul Parreno at CarpeDM for all his help in Quito (and a great run!). As always, thanks to Cassandra and our daugh-ters Magdalena and Genevieve for continued love and support despite sometimes long absences.

Greg Benchwick The biggest and boldest of thanks goes to my wife and daughter who traveled with me through the central highlands on the fi rst stage of my research trip… you are the best travel companions a man could ask for. The people of Ecuador were amazingly gracious and kind, as were the tour operators, guides and street rascals that set me on my way. And to my Cotopaxi climbing companions, Julian and James, thanks for the best summit of my life!

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394

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Michael Grosberg First and foremost, thanks to the warmth and kindness of Ecuadorian strangers I met along the way. And to Christopher Jimenez in Guayaquil for all his advice; Xavier ‘Tito’ Burbano for sharing his political and social insight; Alan Smith for his travel thoughts; Jascivan Carvalho for his experience with environmental issues; Fabrizio Prado in the Galápagos; Aline Louvet in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno; and to Carly Neidorf, for being there for me, both on the road and stateside.

Tom Masters Many thanks to my friend Alexandra Tampa-kopoulos, who accompanied me for much of my journey through Ecuador, for her great company and unfailing sense of humor, even when things didn’t turn out as planned. I’m indebted to many people all over Ecuador who helped me throughout my trip, but thanks especially to the staff and guides of

the Lower Río Napo who made sure than my journey went like clockwork, to the very kind owners of the Ali Shungu Mountaintop Lodge in Otavalo, and to the friendly staff at Casa de Amigos in Same for making me feel at home on the road.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classifi cation’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633 44. Cover photograph: Blue-footed booby, Galápagos Islands, John Freeman, LPI.

Many of the images in this guide are avail-able for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: www.lonelyplanetimages.com.

THIS BOOK This 9th edition of Lonely Planet’s Ecuador & the Galápa-gos Islands guidebook was researched and written by Regis St Louis (Coordinating Author), Greg Benchwick, Michael Grosberg and Tom Masters. The previous edition was researched and written by Regis St Louis, Lucy Burningham, Aimée Dowl and Michael Grosberg. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Oakland office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Kathleen Munnelly

Coordinating Editors Nigel Chin, Amanda Williamson Coordinating Carto-graphers Karusha Ganga, Andy Rojas Coordinating Layout Designer Juan Winata Managing Editors Barbara Delissen, Bruce Evans, Annelies Mertens, Martine Power Managing Cartographers Shahara Ahmed, Alison Lyall Managing Layout Designer Jane Hart Assisting Editors Amy Karafin, Kate Mathews, Joanne Newell, Karyn Noble, Sophie Splatt

Assisting Cartographer James Leversha Cover Research Naomi Parker Internal Image Research Nicholas Colicchia Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Anita Banh, Sasha Baskett, Elin Berglund, Lucy Birchley, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Chris Girdler, Paul Iacono, Sally Morgan, Mardi O’Connor, Trent Paton, Kirsten Rawlings, Wibowo Rusli, Gerard Walker, Simon Williamson

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