Livestock Carcass Composting – Demonstration and Outreach · HOT Composting. Use a 3+ foot...
Transcript of Livestock Carcass Composting – Demonstration and Outreach · HOT Composting. Use a 3+ foot...
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Make Compost!
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Compost according to Merriam-WebsterN: a mixture that consists largely of
decayed organic matter and is used for
fertilizing and conditioning land
V: to convert (a material, such as plant
debris) to compost
Composting according to CaitlinMicrobe Farming
(and sometimes worm farming)
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Plant Food
&
Soil
Carbon
HOT Compost COLD Compost WORM Compost
Mulch
Soil Amendment
Seed Starting Add topotting Soil
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COMPOST BIOLOGY
+ +
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A single
shovelful of
soil can
contain more
species of
organisms
than live
above ground
in the entire
Amazon rain
forest!
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H2O(g)
Heat
CO2
Raw Materials
Organic Waste
Water
Microbes
Weed seeds
Pathogens
microbes
O2
Finished Compost for building soil
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FOOD
Your microbes need carbon and
nitrogen in a specific ratio to thrive
(C:N ratio)
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Food waste 15:1
Coffee grounds 20:1
Grass clippings 15-20:1
Sheep manure 20:1
Horse manure 30:1
Hay 20-30:1
Leaves 40-80:1
Straw 80-100:1
Sawdust 200-500:1
Material C:N ratio
The optimum C:N for active composting is ~30:1
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1 volume of “green”+
2 volumes of “brown”
+ a little bit of air and water
= good compost
Formulating a Recipe
Start with simple volume ratios, based on how
“green” or “brown” your raw materials are
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WATER
Too much water = smelly, anaerobic piles
Not enough water = very slow decomposition
Squeeze a handful of material in your
fist. If it drips it’s too wet, if it falls apart
it’s too dry.
A film of water on your palm is just right!
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AIR
Oxygen is essential for aerobic microbes, the most
efficient decomposers
Not enough air = soggy, stinky pile (anaerobic)
Too much air = very slow decomposition
Area between particles filled with air OR water
Particle size: 1/8 to 1 inch
Turn to mix and aerate
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Too much water = Not enough air
Too much air = Not enough water
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• Compost microbes consume raw materials
• Heat is produced faster than it can escape
• Internal temperatures reach 105 to 160oF
Most efficient microbes
Heat kills pathogens
and weed seeds
> 130oF for 3 days
HOT Composting
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Use a 3+ foot temperature probe to
monitor temperature
If it’s warmer on the inside than the outside,
you are doing a good job!
>1310F for pathogens/weeds
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Pipes for air
Water
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HOT composting is good for:
• Manure
• Compost to sell
• Materials with weed seeds in them
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• Same biology
• Still need food, air, water
• Decomposition happens more slowly
• Usually gets warm but not hot, and may not
kill pathogens or weed seeds
• Easier
COLD Composting
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Don’t forget water!
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October
NO YES
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March
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NEW
compost
OLD compost
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Compost bins / tumblers• Convenient, tidy
• Remember the biology!
Open on bottom
allows worms
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www.nyc.gov
Dig a trench ~ 12 inches deep
Fill with 4-5 inches of organics
Rotate as needed
Trench Composting
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Straw Bale Composting
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Lasagna Composting or
Sheet Mulching
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Start in the Fall
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Remember the biology: food, water, air
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Ready to plant in the Spring
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Filling Raised Beds
Layers of wood chips, moldy alfalfa hay, straw, coffee grounds,
grass clippings, and compost
This takes time!
STRAW
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COFFEE GROUNDS
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LEAF COMPOST
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WORM Composting
Great option for food scraps
Indoors or outdoors
Low risk of pests or odor
Worm “castings” can be used in
gardens, house plants, or
starting seeds
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Use “red wigglers”, not earthworms
Process large amounts of organic
waste
Reproduce quickly
Thrive at 59-77oF
Food, water, air…
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Images courtesy of Mary Appelhof
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Soil amendment
Mulch
2-3 inches of compost
into new garden beds
“Aged” vs. “Composted”
manure
Using Compost
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Plant available nutrientsLong-term, slow release
Soil organic matterBoost for soil biology
Improve water holding capacity
Improve saline soils
Reduce compaction
Using Compost
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City of Worland Compost Yard
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