Lingerie Insight October 2011

BUSINESS INTELLIGENCE FOR LINGERIE & SWIMWEAR PROFESSIONALS

OCTOBER 2011 / VOL. 02 ISSUE 10www.lingerieinsight.com

PRE M I E R LEAGUEPaul Robinson talks about producing lingerie for the UK’s top football clubs

MADE I N TH E UKWe reveal why British manufacture is set for a resurgence

OPI NION

BLAC K H I STORY

MONTH

RAVE NOUS BE LLE & DON

NEW PRODUCTS

L F WWE BRI NG YOU TH E SE PTE M BE R 2011 SHOW H IGH LIGHTS

RI SE OF TH E FRANC H I SELearn what the franchise business model can do for you

BREAST CANC E R AWARE NE S S MONTHFind out which brands are supporting the fight against breast cancer

UK

AWARDSLingerie Insight

introduces you to the winners and finalists

of this year’s glittering event at One Mayfair

OCTOBER 2011 / VOL. 02 ISSUE 10www.lingerieinsight.com

www.lingerieinsight.com / OCTOBER 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT 1

FRONT

REGULARS

News ReviewA round-up of this month’s lingerie and swimwear news.

First StitchWe take a look at the work of LCF student Charini Suriyage.

Voice of the IndustryChristine Parish describes her quest to fi nd non-wired bras.

Speakers’ CornerUK Lingerie Awards winners give feedback on the night.

UK Lingerie AwardsRead our exclusive coverage of the 2011 UK Lingerie Awards.

Premier LeaguePaul Robinson speaks on intimate apparel and football.

Breast Cancer Awareness MonthDiscover who is supporting the fi ght against breast cancer.

Made in the UKLI reports on intimate apparel manufacturing in the UK.

London Fashion WeekWe bring you news from the designers at last month’s LFW.

Ravenous Belle & DonLearn about new designer collective Ravenous Belle & Don.

To ask or not to ask?Being U co-founder Sadia Sisay speaks out about lingerie

options for women of colour during Black History Month.

Rise of the franchiseShaw Stapely explains the key points that need to be

considered when exploring the franchise concept.

ON THE COVER

Object of DesireTh e high end piece that has the industry talking this month.

Products ShowcaseAn inspirational selection of new lingerie and swimwear.

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LINGERIE INSIGHT / OCTOBER 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk



ITP PROMEDIA PUBLISHING

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EDITORIAL

EDITOR Kat Slowe,[email protected] CONTRIBUTORS Joon Haque, Sadia Sisay, Shaw Stapely

COMMERCIAL

SALES MANAGER Andrew Martyniuk, [email protected]

STUDIO

GROUP ART EDITOR Daniel Prescott,[email protected] in conjunction with Quadrum Solutionswww.quadrumltd.com

DIGITAL

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Published by and copyright 2011 Promedia Ltd, incorporated and registered in the British Virgin Islands under company number 1559854.

Congratulations to all the winners and fi nalists of this year’s inaugural UK Lingerie Awards. I am sure everyone who attended will agree it was a night to remember and that the level of talent and success of the individuals who congregated at One Mayfair for the occasion was an incredibly positive sign for the intimate apparel sector moving forward.

In this issue, we are seeking to

recognise an additional area of the

industry, one which is rarely publicised.

Th erefore, we ask the question, ‘is

manufacturing dead in Britain?’ After

all, with the huge number of factories

and jobs moving abroad over the past

couple of decades, the future of British

intimate apparel production could

appear in doubt.

However, as we reveal in the October

edition, manufacturing in the country

is not only still very much alive but,

in some areas, growing. Companies

such as Gio Stockings and Courtaulds

are just a few of the traditional labels

that are still producing hosiery in the

country, primarily for their own brands.

But, there are also a growing

number of factories which off er a

manufacturing facility for brands

specialising in luxury design. Th ese

include the likes of AJM Sewing and

Orbit Apparel, both of which are

experiencing a building demand for

their services from a bevy of British

independent directional labels.

Premier Lingerie, whose chief

executive we have interviewed in this

month’s issue, is also manufactured

in the UK by Vixen Lingerie which, in

addition to own label, off ers CMT (Cut,

Make and Trim).

And, with the rising costs of labour

abroad making British manufacturing

even more attractive, we could be set

to see a comeback of the Made in the

UK label. I, for one, will be glad to see

it happen.

KAT SLOWEEDITOR

[email protected]

Cover: By Caprice

Model wears: Morticia bodysuit

Photographer: Rachell Smith

Model: Caprice Bourret

OCTOBE R COVE R

THEFAMOUSWORLDOF INTIMATES

212223-012012

www.lingerie-paris.com

PARIS EXPO - PORTE DE VERSAILLES - HALL 1Contact: T. +44 208 216 3100 - F. +44 208 447 1146 | [email protected]

5

NEWS REVIEW / FRONT

www.lingerieinsight.com / OCTOBER 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

THIS MONTH IN LINGERIE AND SWIMWEAR

Rachell Smith, a

former photographic

assistant at Rankin

Photography, has

collaborated with By Caprice to

produce the brand’s new SS12

imagery.

Th e photographer, who has re-

portedly shot for the likes of Elle,

Tatler and Vogue, shot the collec-

tion at a studio in Shoreditch. It is

her second ever campaign.

“She’s just massive right now,”

said By Caprice owner, designer

and model Caprice Bourret.

“We see the shoots, especially

for lingerie, are becoming a bit

more risqué and overtly sexy.

RacheLl is quite a feminine, edgy

photographer, so this was quite

an exciting project for her... She is

really great, her and her 100,000

assistants... Her lighting is so

fantastic that we had very little

re-touching to do. We will defi -

nitely be using her again.”

Th e new SS12 range comes out

in December in retailers such as

Next, Littlewoods, Very, ASOS,

Figleaves, Debenhams and 70

independents nationwide.

By Caprice has also taken on

a big, new mystery stockist, who

Bourret states will help raise the

company’s profi le to an ‘entirely

new level’. Th e retailer is current-

ly launching brands in its stores

and By Caprice will be the only

lingerie brand.

For AW11, By Caprice will

be expanding worldwide and

entering into the hosiery and

sleepwear sectors. Th is Valen-

tine’s Day, it will also be launch-

ing a new campaign, featuring

a fresh face and body. Bourret is

currently looking into the ‘next

little hot thing’ and is planning

to go for a big American name for

maximum exposure.

“We will just do what we

did with Amy [Childs] and do

a Valentines campaign again,”

she said. “We are calling around

the agents and we are seeing

the availability, and how bloody

expensive they are... I’m so bored

of doing it. You just have to keep

on working out four times a week

and eating like a rabbit.”

RACHELL SMITH PHOTOGRAPHS BY CAPRICE’S SS12 LINGERIE AND SWIMWEAR COLLECTION S

FOR IMAGES OF THE SS12 COLLECTIONS AND DAILY BREAKING NEWS VISIT

NEWS IN BRIEF NEWS IN QUOTES GRADUATE FOCUS VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY SPEAKERS’ CORNER CALENDAR WEB HIGHLIGHTS

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FRONT / NEWS REVIEW

LINGERIE INSIGHT / OCTOBER 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.com

wear and lingerie comes in a

mix and match of high waist

and bandeau bikini styles, as

well as the signature Joni body-

suit with extra long fringing.

All products have been ‘road

tested’ by the If You Please team

abroad and throughout the

festival season to ensure their

longevity. Th ey are made from

Lycra and stretch lace, and come

in bright neon, and black and

white colourways.

Ormskirk retailer Pandora’s Box

celebrated its 20th anniversary

in September with a special pro-

motion weekend and exclusive

VIP evening.

Th e business began on a mar-

ket stall two decades ago, before

quickly moving into the indoor

market in Ormskirk and, later,

Wheatsheaf Walk, where it is

today.

Day to day operations of the

shop have been taken on by ex

sisters-in-law Katie Givens and

Jackie Wood, but Given’s parents

still work behind-the-scenes in

assisting the smooth running of

the store.

Givens said: “We accredit

our success to diff erentiation of

service and products, a nose for

specifi c customer needs and a

friendly warm environment in

which to shop. I believe these

are the key factors for survival

in any retail outlet.”

New lingerie brand being U has

been selected as a fi nalist in the

Start-up Business of the Year

category for the 2011 PRECIOUS

Awards.

Th e PRECIOUS Awards cel-

ebrate women of colour in busi-

ness. Being U is a start-up com-

pany that off ers lingerie which is

specially designed to cater for a

variety of diff erent skin tones.

Co-founder Sadia Sisay said:

“After years of research and de-

velopment to create the perfect

product, we are so pleased being

U is being recognised for the

revolutionary brand it is.”

for the online retailer.

Th e fi rst range was reportedly

so popular that, after multiple re

orders, ASOS chose to stock it as

a continuity line.

Th e new collection features a

‘Bettie’ sweetheart style corset,

available in a pleated black or

pleated soft gold duchess satin,

the ‘Audrey’ in violet silk dupion

with ribbon front detail and the

‘Audrey’ in a black faux leather.

Baci Lingerie has signed a

deal with a new, exclusive South

African brand owner, who is set

to open at least 20 mono brand

stores over the next fi ve years.

Th e step follows a spate of

recent deals in countries around

the world, including Holland,

Brazil, France, Spain, Mexico,

Budapest, the UAE, the Baltic

States and Belarus.

Baci Lingerie chief operating

offi cer Robert Rosen said: “Once

Baci Lingerie South Africa was

introduced to the mono brand

store concept, they completely

fell in love and were eager to

move forward. Already Baci

Lingerie is scouting for the best

locations in South Africa to

house their 20 plus Baci Lingerie

mono brand stores.”

If You Please has launched a

new, versatile collection of linge-

rie, which doubles – or triples –

as swimwear and evening wear.

Designer Amber Th omson’s

new range of transitional body-

Wacoal lingerie brand b.tempt’d

launched on fi gleaves.com last

month.

Th e site is showcasing mainly

basic signature styles, with sev-

eral fashion colours being added

later in the season.

Th e collection seeks to incor-

porate a winter inspired colour

palette and delicate lace details

with Wacoal ‘signature fi t and

quality.’

Wacoal sales & marketing

manager Susan Bradley said: “I

am very excited to be further

expanding the b.tempt’d brand

by launching it on fi gleaves.com,

which has already had much

success with our Wacoal brand.”

Lime Door Brands, the

Australian company that man-

ages Shane Warne’s underwear

brand, Spinners, and is behind

burlesque star Dita Von Teese’s

new lingerie line, has gone into

voluntary liquidation

Th e fi rm reportedly held a

creditor’s meeting last month,

but is yet to release a statement

regarding the future of the com-

pany.

Chief Executive Michele Ham-

dorf, a retail veteran of Target,

Myer and David Jones, told In-

ternational Business Times that

the voluntary liquidation was

not a refl ection on the compa-

ny’s performance but was a re-

NEWS REVIEWsult of a disagreement between

Hamdorf and three unnamed

seed partners over growth and

international expansion plans.

She said: “I put Lime Door

Brands into voluntary liquida-

tion after an unresolved stale-

mate with my three key capital

partners... I have so much busi-

ness to get on with and I needed

to break the nexus... Shane’s

well aware of it - it’s nothing

to do with him or the Spinners

brand...”

Warne’s brand is sold in ma-

jor retail outlets throughout

Australia and negotiations have

been ongoing about opening a

store in the UK.

More than four out of 10 new

employees taken on by the retail

sector in the last 12 months

have been aged between 16 and

21, new fi gures from the British

Retail Consortium (BRC) have

revealed.

A survey of BRC members

responsible for more than a mil-

lion retail jobs has found 42%

of new starters were aged 21

or younger, which equates to

at least 13,500 jobs for this age

group.

Across the UK, retailing also

provides 42% of 16 to 17-year-

olds in employment with a job.

Similarly, it provides 40% of em-

ployment for 18 to 19-year-olds

and 25% for 20 to 24-year-olds,

said the BRC.

Eternal Spirits has designed

a new collection, exclusive to

ASOS, which has just launched

on the site for Autumn/Winter.

Th is is the second collection

that Eternal Spirits has designed

7

NEWS REVIEW / FRONT


INNOVATIVE SHAPEWEAR

17498+14390

NATURANA Ltd. Partnership

Lichfield, Staffs. WS13 6RT Tel 01543 414441 · Fax 01543 [email protected] · www.naturana.com

BY

“This positive development against the backdrop of an economically challenging environment is primarily the result of the targeted expansion of our own sales outlets.”Wolford chief executive offi cer HOLGER DAHMEN talks about Wolford’s

reduced loss for the fi rst quarter. The company saw a sales increase

of six percent, driven partly by the expansion of the company’s own

distribution network.

“Due to increasing customer demand, we believe the time is right for us to go fully transactional with Charnos.co.uk.” Charnos design and marketing director MIRANDA FROST discusses the

launch of the brand’s new transactional website, which was unveiled

last month.

“I am thrilled to offer our customers these ultimate gift boxes, which will hopefully make searching for the perfect gift a thing of the past.”Ayten Gasson creative director AYTEN MUSTAFA speaks about the

brand introducing a new series of boxed gift sets, this season.

“I’ve been trying to buy Lime Door Brands out - the full equity of it - for the last six months, and we basically reached a position where we couldn’t agree to agree and, given I want to move forward with full ownership of the company. I made the decision to put it into liquidation.”Lime Door Brands chief executive MICHELE HAMDORF explains why

the Australian company has gone into voluntary liquidation.

“I must have been the youngest trained bra fitter around. I remember always telling my friends in school what bra size they should wear. We used to do presentations at local schools and the WI and my mum used to use me as a model.”Pandora’s Box partner KATIE GIVENS describes how she became

interested in lingerie on the eve of the store’s 20th anniversary event.

NEWS IN QUOTES

> > Something to say? Email [email protected]

8

FRONT / NEWS REVIEW


X Factor contestant Michelle

Barrett, who moved judge Tu-

lisa Contostavlos to tears on

the show, last month, has been

revealed as a former model of

lingerie brand Ultimo.

Th is year, the blonde singer

won a place on the label’s Real

Woman campaign and was fea-

tured on billboards throughout

the country.

Barrett, a mother of four, told

the Sunday Mirror: ‘Posing in

just your pants is very full-on.

But on the day the shoot was

very professional and the pho-

tographers put me at ease really

quickly.’

Barrett’s audition song, All

Th e Man I Need by Whitney

Houston, gained her a place in

Boot Camp, the next stage of the

ITV singing contest.

After the performance, Con-

tostavlos said: “You remind me

of my mum. It was brilliant.”

Boux Avenue launched its

seventh UK store at the Metro-

centre, Gateshead, on Septem-

ber 23, 2011.

Owned by Dragons’ Den star

Th eo Paphitis, the new lingerie

label off ers products such as

Inspired by her love for experi-

menting with combinations of the

traditional and modern, Sri Lankan

born Charini Suriyage has already

made a mark for herself in the ethi-

cal fashion arena, her brand ‘Charini’

winning the fi rst ever Ethical Fashion

Award for lingerie at the Sri Lanka

Design Festival in 2010.

Suriyage studied for her Bachelors

in Fashion Design at the University

of Moratuwa, Sri Lanka, and is, at

present reading for her Masters in

Design Management at London Col-

lege of Fashion. She has worked with

some of the best names in ethical

fashion, including Orsola de Castro,

Filippo Ricci, Elizabeth Laskar and

Claire Hamer.

FIRST STITCHCELEBRATING EMERGING TALENT

> > Are you a student or recent graduate and want to be featuredin First Stitch? Email [email protected]

WHAT KATIE DID, 7970 ½ MELROSE AVENUE, WEST HOLLYWOOD, CALIFORNIA

STORE ENVY

> > Got a Store Envy suggestion? Email: [email protected]

What Katie Did opened a store

on Hollywood’s famous Melrose

Avenue on September 8.

Founded in 1999, What Katie Did

specialises in lingerie inspired by

the ’40s and ‘50s. Until now, its lin-

gerie has been available through

the brand’s website (www.whatka-

tiedid.com), its London boutique

and its 120 stockists worldwide.

The company is now looking to

expand its operations in the US, in

the wake of launching both retail

and wholesale websites in the

country, last year.

Retail mail order will soon be

despatched from the brand’s LA

stockroom.

NEWS REVIEWbras and frilly knicker, chemises

and teddies.

Fittings and expert advice are

available free of charge from the

stores, which feature drawers

that display lingerie in accord-

ance to size and fi tting rooms

with three diff erent light settings

to emulate day, dusk and night.

Paphitis said: “Boux Avenue

off ers an amazing lingerie and

nightwear shopping experience

for women who are looking for

something truly special. Boux

Avenue provides outstanding

service and a superior fi t that

is unrivalled in its approach. I

am delighted to be opening my

fi rst store in the North East at

the Metrocentre. Th e centre is a

perfect fi t for the Boux Avenue

brand and I know the women of

Gateshead are going to love it!”

Ann Summers chief executive

Jacqueline Gold has apologised

after a joke tweet that she post-

ed, last month, appeared to con-

fi rm rumours that the Olympic

arena would be re-named the

Ann Summers Stadium.

She wrote her comments on

Twitter after a story appeared

in Th e Sun and the Daily Mail

asserting that West Ham United

chairman and Ann Summers

owner David Gold had told fans

the company was in the running

to be the stadium sponsor.

Gold commented: ‘So ru-

mours are the Olympic Stadium

might be called the Ann Sum-

mers Stadium. What do the

#westham fans think of that or

what would u prefer?’

10

FRONT / NEWS REVIEW


VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY

My name is Christine

and I wear non-wired

bras. There, my

secret is out. Until

three years ago I hadn’t really given

wire-free bras a thought. Apart from

a couple of maternity bras when I

was pregnant and breastfeeding, I

don’t think I’d worn one since I was 15.

Then, in May 2008, I was diagnosed

with breast cancer. As well as entering

a world of hospital appointments,

chemotherapy, wigs, scans and

surgery, I also found myself having to

give the lingerie I bought some serious

consideration. Having a reconstruction

alongside a mastectomy meant that

I had to spend three months, day

and night, in a sports bra and then

the foreseeable future in non-wired

bras. During my treatment, I most

looked forward to two things: the

fi rst was having hair long enough

to have a proper cut and the other

was buying fabulous new lingerie. I’d

lost a lot of confi dence, as well as my

breast, and I thought that having new,

feminine lingerie would give me back

some of my sense of being a woman.

That was before I went on my fi rst

post surgery bra-buying expedition.

How naïve I was. I thought that

there would be rows of non-wired

bras, equally as beautiful as their wired

equivalents, waiting for me to make a

selection. Sadly not. My choice was,

shall we say... limited. I came away with

a white tee shirt bra, only marginally

more attractive than my sports bras

and twice as uncomfortable. I cried on

the way home and the bra went into

the charity bag that evening with the

labels still attached.

Not all women who have surgery

for breast cancer want a pocketed

bra. They just want a non-wired bra.

And, it isn’t an issue that just affects

women who have had breast cancer.

There are also many other women

who for one reason or another

choose or need to wear non-wired

bras. They shouldn’t have to choose

between a mastectomy bra, a sports

bra, a maternity bra or something

unattractive in white, black or nude.

I feel that there is sometimes an

assumption in the industry that

women who wear non-wired put

comfort before style. Can’t they have

both? I was inspired to create my

business so other women don’t have

to do the extensive research that I

had to.

I would love to see some of the

large lingerie brands designing two

or three wire-free bras each season in

the same fabrics, patterns and colours

as their wired counterparts, providing

all women with a choice. One day,

perhaps.

My story: a quest for non-wired bras

CHRI STINE PARI SHOwner, softly softly

NEWS REVIEW

DB Apparel UK is supporting

retailers, this winter, by launch-

ing a price freeze on all product

lines.

Th e company, whose brands

include Wonderbra, Playtex and

Shock Absorber, has made the

decision to keep prices static

until Autumn/Winter 2012.

DBA general manager Paul

Devin said: “Coming from a

sales background myself, I know

how important it is to support

the trade. As well as the two-

season price freeze, we are com-

mitting to a signifi cant media

spend for a second year running,

with the aim of encouraging

more consumer footfall into

store to fi nd great product at

aff ordable prices.”

X Factor judge Tulisa was

spotted wearing a bikini by Miss

Mandalay while on holiday in

Spain, last month.

Th e N Dubz singer wore the

luxury brand’s blue and white

Ahoy style on the beach, with

images of her wading in the sea

receiving national coverage.

Tulisa has also reportedly

taken some of the brand’s pieces

to Greece for the fi nal stages of

X-Factor bootcamp.

Miss Mandalay founder Lor-

raine Morton said: “We knew

she was a fan of our lingerie

and swimwear, so it’s great to

actually see images of her wear-

ing our range… It also really

re-enforces our brand position,

as Miss Mandalay has always

strived to bring well fi tting

lingerie and swimwear to fash-

ionistas of all shapes and sizes,

with a size range from 28 to 38,

B to H cup.”

US retailer Victoria’s Secret is

opening four outlets in Russia,

this quarter.

Th e fi rst store launched on

September 30 in the Mega Shop-

ping Centre at Tyoply Stan and

the second opened three days

later in Moscow’s Kapitoly shop-

ping centre.

Th e third is set to launch in

early November in Mega Kh-

imki.

A special concept will report-

edly set the Russian stores apart

from their US counterparts.

Th e boss of high street clothing

retailer Next gave hope to mem-

bers of the fashion industry last

month after he announced that

the cotton bubble had offi cially

burst.

Lord Simon Wolfson added

that retailers would soon also

be seeing an end to ‘the perfect

storm’ of rising costs and higher

VAT, asserting that there would

be little to no infl ation in prod-

ucts prices in 2012.

11

NEWS REVIEW / FRONT


“My Dutch agent Dees rang at

5.30am my time and said, ‘Lydia, we

won’ and we both started crying.

Within days, we had an order from

a potential client who previously

had emailed to say that, although

she loved Jamu, she wouldn’t be

stocking the brand until next season.

We received positive comments,

like the one from my Canadian

distributor, saying, “we all know the

brand is exceptional. Now it has the

print/award to prove it”. And, I was

approached to work on a unique

project, which I can’t yet talk about,

but which seems very exciting. ”

“We are thrilled to receive the

UK Lingerie Award for Multiple

Retailer of the Year. It is a great

recognition for the whole company,

especially Sarah and her team for

the great collections they have been

producing, and has set our knickers

afl utter! The gents in our boutiques

also have to be thanked for their

hard work. It̀ s been a great year

and we hope for many more .Thank

you so much to Lingerie Insight

for all the support throughout the

year and we would like to send our

congratulations to all of the award

winners and nominees.”

“After all the excitement of the

awards ceremony, it now feels quite

surreal for Obey My Demand to have

won an award, especially when this

year has already opened up so many

fantastic opportunities for me. The

“New Designer of the Year” award

has highlighted and celebrated

the brand’s exciting success to

date. It has created awareness of

the brand amongst other lingerie

professionals; therefore showing the

industry the brand’s potential for

future collections and creating high

expectations of what’s to come next

for Obey My Demand!”

LYDIA LEONGfounder,

Jamu Australia

LEANNE BROOKEfounder,

Obey My Demand

GARRY HOGARTHchief executive,

Agent Provocateur

SPEAKERS’ CORNER

W H AT D OE S I T M E A N TO W I N A U K L I NG E R I E AWA R D?

LASCIVIOUS has teamed up with fellow independent British label BELLE-ET-BON-BON, this Christmas, to produce a collection of limited edition knickers.Featuring either a signature Lascivious print or Belle-et-BonBon lace, the festive pieces are fi nished with a delicate ‘Enjoy’ heart-shaped tag. The asymmetric tie-sides come packaged in a ‘BonBon’, or bauble, ready to hang on the Christmas tree. Belle-et-BonBon founder Geri Keff ord said: “Working with Chloe and Lascivious has been really exciting for us... Chloe’s immense talent for beautiful, graphic, sleek lingerie is pure craftwork, and distinctly seductive with a playful edge that we love at Belle-et-BonBon! “

NEWS FLASH

For more news visit

www.lingeriein-sight.com

DIARY DATES

18-19th October, Arts Hotel, Bar-

celona. Th e second edition of

Anteprima Barcelona will take

place a month prior to the Mare

di Moda|Intimo di Moda event.

Th e exclusive meeting seeks to

put a selection of companies ex-

hibiting in Cannes in touch with

the leading Iberian beachwear

manufacturers.

18-19th October, Shanghai Exhibi-

tion Center, Shanghai. Interfi liere

Shanghai and Shanghai Mode

Lingerie are a meeting place for

major players, worldwide, in the

intimate apparel and swimwear

industry. Th e event features a

trends forum, fashion shows,

and trends conferences by in-

ternational experts. It will also

host a Gala night, which will be

attended by 400 press, top buy-

ers and key industry players.

23rd-25th November, Palais de

Festivals, Cannes. Mare di Moda

is a trade faire for lingerie and

beachwear, which is held in

Cannes. It off ers the opportunity

for exhibitors and distributors

from across the globe to come

together and receive informa-

tion on the latest fashions.

23rd-25th September, Yiwu Inter-

national Exhibition Centre, Zhe-

jian, PR China. YIWU H&G 2011

is a professional exhibition spe-

cialising in hosiery and seam-

less underwear machinery. Th e

event is increasingly becoming a

must-go knitting exhibition for

both local and overseas knitting

manufacture.

15-17th January, TBC. The Lin-

gerie Collective will be putting

on a show of mid to high end

lingerie brands, ranging from

UK high fashion labels through

to international iconic names.

Th e event, which will see brands

exhibit their AW12 collection,

will be expanding into a new,

larger venue for 2012.

12

FRONT / NEWS REVIEW


1 UK Lingerie Awards celebrates the best of 2011

2 American Apparel model search is butt of joke

3 GALLERY: Winners of UK Lingerie Awards 2011

4 PICS: Designer makes lingerie from animal nipples

5 £10,000 in lingerie stolen from Sadie The Bra Lady

6 Top Model star poses for Kiss Me Deadly

7 GALLERY: Celebs attend the UK Lingerie Awards

8 COLLECTION: Shell Belle Couture 2012

9 Kardashian collection launches today

10 Ann Summers pops up in Selfridges

MOST READ ONLINE EDITOR’S CHOICE

GALLERY

Designer makes lingerie from animal nipplesRachel Freire presents her

Nippleocalypse collection at LFW.

COLLECTION

Shell Belle Couture SS12Luxury brand Shell Belle Couture showcases

its new lingerie, swimwear and nightwear

range.

NEWS

Next claims cotton bubble has burstBoss of Next states that prices for the natural

fi bre have started to decline.

VIDEO

Nichole de Carle LFW partyDirty Sexy Things cast checks out Nichole

de Carle’s new SS12 lingerie range.

Looks like I won’t be allowed access in the

mansion beyond our room for Monday’s

shoot. Must start scouting estates or

making rich friends.

@ToadLillie

“Hey SPANX fans! Today is the fi rst day of

fall...what’s your favorite thing about the

season?”

@SPANXinc

“Mirror-Talk: “I really want to buy all the

underwear that matches these bras, but

fi rst I have to go home and talk to my

ass.””

@jenettebras

“Looking at a certain lingerie brand’s size

chart...apparently a size L is a US size 8 w/

a 29” waist and 39” hips. That’s just sad.”

@lingerie_addict

Looks like

mannsiosion bbbb

shoot. Mussss

makm ing riccc

@ToadLadLiiii

“Hey Sy SPANNNP

fall...what’s

LINGERIE TWEETS

1

UK Lingerie Awards

guests raise their

glasses at the event

3

Violinists provide

entertainment at

One Mayfair

2

The UK Lingerie

Awards 2011 venue,

One Mayfair

4

UK Lingerie Awards

trophies

Senior members of the UK

Lingerie industry came

together at the inaugural UK

Lingerie Awards last month

to recognise outstanding examples of

excellence over the past year.

Lingerie Insight magazine hosted the

event, which was sponsored by Speedo

Sculpture and the Melas Group, and

took place inside the plush confi nes of

One Mayfair. More than 250 lingerie

professionals attended the evening,

including several high profi le celebrities

from the stage and screen.

Celebrity attendees included the likes

of Imogen Th omas, Michelle Mone,

Caprice, actress Louisa Lytton, Th e Mac

Twins, actress Zarah Abrahams, singer

Charlotte Abrahams and Dirty Sexy

Th ing’s Charlotte de Carle.

Despite the challenges that the market

has faced during the past 12 months,

competition for this year’s awards was as

fi erce as ever across the 20 categories on

off er. Th e UK Lingerie Awards website

was visited by 11,870 unique visitors prior

to the awards and, prior to the judging,

received over 4500 votes. Th e fi nal voting

by the UK Lingerie Awards judges for

the fi nalists and winners was done in

secret. On the night of the awards, not

even the judges knew the result. In the

brand categories, the victors included La

Perla, Lascivious, Made By Niki, Maryan

Mehlhorn, Shock Absorber and Wolford

Tights. Agent Provocateur, Rigby & Peller,

Selfridges and Figleaves claimed the

retail prizes, while La Senza scooped the

prize for Marketing Campaign of the Year

with Cup Size Choir.

In the much-anticipated New Brand

of the Year award, Obey My Demand

struck gold as designer Leanne Brooke

saw off strong competition to earn

WE BRING YOU THE

EXCLUSIVE SCOOP ON

THE UK LINGERIE AWARDS

2011, HOSTED BY LINGERIE INSIGHT ON SEPTEMBER 7 AT

ONE MAYFAIR.

victory in the category. Rounding off

the ceremony, Jill Kenton received the

Lifetime Achievement Award on behalf

of her mother, June Kenton, who was

given the accolade in honour of the 50

outstanding years that she has devoted

to the industry, both as proprietor of

Rigby & Peller and holder of the Royal

Warrant.

Lingerie Insight editor Kat Slowe said:

“It takes an exceptional level of talent,

creativity, business expertise and hard

work to rise to the top of any industry.

Th e winners of the UK Lingerie Awards

have demonstrated all these attributes,

and more, over the past 12 months. I

would also like to extend my thanks

to the prestigious panel of judges, June

Kenton, Sharon Webb, Gillian Proctor,

Kelly Isaac, Claire Franks and Nichole

de Carle, for giving so generously of both

their expertise and time.”

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1 2

3

UK LI NGE RI E AWARDS 2011 / REPORT

14 LINGERIE INSIGHT / OCTOBER 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

4

5

15www.lingerieinsight.com / OCTOBER 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT 15www.lingerieinsight.com / OCTOBER 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

WHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: Retailers, which are

independently owned, that demonstrate

exceptional levels of customer service,

a superior range of products and which

come up with innovative events and

marketing concepts to attract clients

into the store.

WINNER: RIGBY & PELLERLuxury retailer Rigby & Peller operates

six stores throughout the UK. It has

been operating for 50 years under the

ownership of June Kenton, who holds the

Royal Warrant for the Queen.

Th e retailer, renowned for its fi ttings,

stocks the widest range of intimate

apparel on the high street and was the

fi rst to introduce the N cup back in

September 2010.

Initiatives that it has become

involved in over the past year include a

project with Mary Portas, in February,

to launch its fi rst charitable outlet

through her Living & Giving shops and

a collaboration with Tatler in August.

Th e same month, Rigby & Peller also

collaborated with swimwear brand

Maryan Mehlhorn and Th e World Land

Trust on a new environmental project.

In August 2011, the retailer sold an 87

percent majority stake for £8m to Van de

Velde, leaving the Kenton family with a

minority 13 percent holding.

FINALISTSSADIE THE BRA LADY: Th is iconic

retailer operates four stores and has

received more awards than many

businesses have years. Its catchphrase

is: “Most techniques are still based

upon 150 year old guidelines. Bras have

changed, women’s expectations have

changed, women themselves have

changed. Sadie’s have simply had the

foresight to change with them.”

THE LINGERIE COLLECTIVE: Th e

Lingerie Collective, founded by Modern

Courtesan and MC Lounge owner Kelly

Independent Retailer of the Year

Independent Directional Brand of the Year

Isaac, is a group of independent UK &

international lingerie designers with

a shared passion for exquisite lingerie,

hosiery & accessories. Th e mission is to

promote and support independent UK

and international lingerie brands.

WHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: Designers that have

pushed the boundaries of contemporary

lingerie and are infl uencing the industry

beyond their traditional customer bases.

WINNER: LASCIVIOUSFounded in 2004 by creative director

Chloe Hamblen, Lascivious has rapidly

transformed into the independent

directional brand of choice for many

celebrities and wealthy consumers.

With celebrities, such as Jessie J and Keri

Hilson, donning its pieces and its entry

into Harrods, this season, 2011 has been

an incredibly successful year for the

designer brand.

For AW11, the label will be designing

three limited edition pieces, which

will be handmade and embellished

with hundred of Swarovski crystals to

complement the department store’s

Christmas theme.

Th e brand will also be stocked again

in Selfridges, where it launched in AW10

and for which it is also designing an

exclusive Christmas bodysuit.

Lascivious is currently stocked in 14

countries, including the UK, the US,

Australia, Hong Kong and Saudi Arabia.

BORDELLE: Not long after the

company’s inception in 2007, founder

Alexandra Popa paired up with free

lance designer Javier Suarez and the

two of them developed the Bordelle

bodywear brand. Bordelle collections

are characterized by body-con designs

and anchored in a closely guarded

proprietary technique that turns

customized satin elastic bandages into a

blend of lingerie and outerwear featuring

a luxury S&M sensuality.

NICHOLE DE CARLE: Founded by De

Montfort University graduate Nichole

de Carle, this independent directional

brand is inspired by iconic architectural

structures with bold curves and

graceful arches. It has been worn by the

likes of Nicole Scherzinger and Rosie

Huntington-Whiteley.



Bridal Brand of the YearWHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: Brands with

exceptional specialist collections for the

bridal market.

WINNER: MYLABritish lingerie brand Myla celebrated

its 10th anniversary at the end of last

year. Over the past decade, the concept

of designing luxury lingerie for modern

women has proved to be a winning

formula for the brand, which counts

Kate Moss, Sienna Miller, Claudia

Schiff er and Lily Cole among its fans.

Today, Myla is one of the UK’s leading

luxury lingerie brands with 12 boutiques

and concessions, most recently a new

WHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: Marketing

campaigns that demonstrate a

high level of originality, attract

significant consumer attention and

effectively promote the brand or

retailer’s products.

WINNER: LA SENZA (CUP SIZE CHOIR)La Senza’s Cup Size Choir video

received over 1.8 million hits on

You Tube in under two weeks.

The video, which launched on

December 1, was the brand’s f irst

ever interactive Christmas viral. It

WHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: A brand that

demonstrated not only excellence

in lingerie design, but also a

commitment to sending an ethical

message, to corporate social

responsibility, and to fair and

proper treatment of all suppliers.

WINNER: SWEETLING LINGERIESisters-in-law Sophie and Maria

Law created Sweetling because

they said they couldn’t f ind any

stylish, natural fabric bras for their

Best Marketing Campaign

Ethical Brand of the Year

boutique at Canary Wharf and a new

fl agship store in the Village.

Myla entered into bridal lingerie last

year with its fi rst capsule collection. Th e

range has since been extended and, for

SS12, Myla is introducing a new line,

incorporating handmade boned corsets,

multiway bras, plunge bras and basques.

FINALISTSLA PERLA: See p.19

LISE CHARMEL: One of France’s

biggest luxury brands and present for

several years in the UK market, Lise

Charmel is now aiming to expand its

network with selective partners.

featured a choir made up of seven

girls in lingerie with bra sizes from

A through to G, who each sang the

musical note of her cup size.

CURVY KATE (STAR IN A BRA): The ‘Star in a Bra’ competition

seeks DD+ women to model for

Curvy Kate. The winner is decided

through a public vote.

LASCIVIOUS (RANKIN CAMPAIGN): Renowned fashion

photographer Rankin took a series

of photographs for luxury brand

Lascivious’ SS11 campaign.

own daughters and wanted to offer

an alternative to the ‘synthetic

moulded, underwired bras that

were being pushed towards

young girls’. All bras are free from

underwiring and padding, and are

made in the UK by adults.

FINALISTSG=9.8: A brand that designs sexy

lingerie made of white pine trees.

WHOMADEYOURPANTS?: A

worker co-op, specifically formed to

empower marginalised women.

17www.lingerieinsight.com / OCTOBER 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

WHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: Brands

which combine great f it and style, and cater for bust

sizes upwards from DD cups.

WINNER: CURVY KATEWithin its f irst six months of trading, fuller cup brand

Curvy Kate was stocked in over 100 stores in the UK.

The past year has seen the brand continue to grow

at an incredible rate. In February, 2011, the brand

reported 400 percent growth and it now has well over

500 stockists worldwide.

It recently added Sweden, Denmark and Finland to

its long list of international export markets, and took

its Star in a Bra model search to Australia.

The company has ambitious future plans, including

the development of its non-transactional website,

CRM system and social media strategy. It is currently

targeting further overseas markets, including Russia

and the USA, and will be introducing its f irst swimwear

collection for Spring/Summer 2012.

MISS MANDALAY: Luxury swimwear and lingerie

brand Miss Mandalay offers unique, directional, high

fashion styling for the DD+ bra sector.

GORGEOUS BY DEBENHAMS: Gorgeous by

Debenhams is the department stores own brand of

lingerie, which specialises in the fuller cup sizes, from a

D to an H cup.

WHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: Hosiery brands that

demonstrates quality of materials, manufacture, marketing and design.

WINNER: WOLFORD TIGHTSWolford’s year kicked off the year with a bang after Cheryl Cole was spotted

wearing its Sahara Bondage tights during her October 2010 performance on

X Factor.

Selfridges rapidly sold out of the hosiery after the event and other brands

and retailers rapidly developed their own versions of the popular style.

Since this occurred, Wolford has not been standing still, but has continued

to introduce innovative designs and styles to the sector, including an

expanded shaping range with new light, medium and strong categories.

In February, Jessie J wore a pair of Wolford’s Nola Polka Dot Seam Tights to

the Brit Awards. Jennifer Lopez and Victoria Beckham have also been spotted

out and about in the brand’s Satin Touch product.

Wolford’s 2012 Spring/Summer collection is inspired by the theatrical

costume and stage designs of Leon Bakst, a legendary Russo-French painter

and designer.

Graphic patterns, lace and tiger skin markings are combined with a touch

of 20s style – all based on a feminine silhouette.

FINALISTSJONATHAN ASTON: Jonathan Aston, which was founded in Leicester in

1965, produces classic sheers, funky fi shnets, fabulous laces, bold stripes and

bright opaques. It is owned by the Melas Group and is a Gold Partner, and

Sponsor, of this year’s UK Lingerie Awards.

PRETTY POLLY: Producing high quality hosiery since 1919, the brand is

synonymous with innovative marketing campaigns and has recently formed

collaborations with the likes of celebrity designer Henry Holland.

Full Bust Brand of the Year

Hosiery Brand of the Year



Mens Brand of the Year

Lingerie Brand of the Year

WHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: Brands that

exhibited innovation and genuine

style, along with the required sculpting

qualities.

WINNER: MADE BY NIKIIndependent directional brand Made

by Niki’s innovative Knockout, Fresh

Foundations, Classics, Slinkies and

String collections have made it one of

the most talked about brands of 2011.

Celebrities who have worn the

brand include the like of Alexandra

Burke, Victoria Beckham, Daisy Lowe,

Victoria Beckham, Naomi Campbell

and KT Tunstall.

WHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: Brands which

command loyalty from retailers and

customers alike for their design,

comfort, innovation and quality.

WINNER: CALVIN KLEINCalvin Klein, Inc. is one of the

leading fashion design and

marketing studios in the world and,

when it comes to men’s underwear,

it is the iconic brand.

This year, Calvin Klein also

launched CK One, the largest

launch in the company’s history.

The CK One product was supported

Shapewear Brand of the Year

WHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: Brands that over

the past 12 months have delivered

outstanding quality of design, fi t,

manufacturing, creativity and

innovation.

WINNER: LA PERLALuxury lingerie brand La Perla has

enjoyed a very successful year. It

achieved a high level of global acclaim

for its SS11 collaboration with Jean

Paul Gaultier, Collection Createur,

which was worn in a series of fashion

magazines by the likes of Victoria

by a significant marketing

campaign and investment.

By the end of the year, CK One

is expected to represent about 10

percent of the brand’s total men’s

underwear business.

FINALISTS 2(X)IST: Founded in 1991, 2(X)ist

combines fashion with contoured

shape and superior function.

EMPORIO ARMANI: Emporio

Armani, modelled by Rafael Nadal,

offers a range of men’s underwear

sold the world over.

Made By Niki entered Selfridges for

the fi rst time last June, with its String

collection and has since created an

exclusive Snow Queen set, including

a 3-tiered fl oor length skirt and high

waisted knickers, for the store.

FINALISTS FLEXEES BY MAIDENFORM: Flexees by Maidenform’s shapewear

collection combines slimming looks

and shapes with comfortable support.

SPANX: Created by Sara Blakely a

decade ago, Spanx is a leading fi gure

in the shapewear industry and a

favourite of Hollywood celebrities.

Beckham, Isabella Ferrari, Kate Moss

and Julianne Moore.

Th e collaboration has been

continued on to AW11, with the

addition of a new beachwear line.

La Perla has also partnered with

Swarovski Elements to create a new

Crystal Limited Edition for the season.

FINALISTSCURVY KATE: See p.18

TRIUMPH: Th e brand celebrated

125 years in the business in 2011 with

Vintage, Essence and Shape Sensation.


Most Innovative Brand of the Year

Multiple Retailer of the Year

WHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: Designers who

have demonstrated exceptional

creativity and imagination in their

work this year and have truly pushed

the boundaries of contemporary

lingerie.

WINNER: ASTUKO KUDOTh e Atsuko Kudo label was founded

a decade ago and fi ve years later the

brand launched its own boutique in

London.

Since the launch, designer

Atsuko Kudo has revolutionised the

understanding of latex lingerie, taking

the material from the world’s sex

strips to the catwalks of its fashion

capitals.

WHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: Multiple retailers

who demonstrate superior

customer service, strong customer

loyalty, superior consumer

communication and which are

continuing to innovate and perform

to a high standard in diff icult

market conditions.

WINNER: AGENT PROVOCATEURAgent Provocateur is well

recognised for its ‘ luxuriously

naughty’ product offering and

outstanding service, but it is also

one of the few retailers in the

intimate apparel market which is

seeking to expand in the current

economic climate.

Agent Provocateur has

announced that it is planning to

double its number of stores around

the world over the next f ive years.

The lingerie company currently

has 55 stores, including its

franchise outlets, and will be

opening the new stores at an

average rate of around 11 a year.

Agent Provocateur will be

primarily concentrating on the

US, Chinese and Russian markets,

but it also opened its f irst store in

Amsterdam, Holland, this year.

The retailer is extending its

product offering to include bedding

for AW11.

FINALISTS BRAVISSIMO: Sarah Tremellen set

up Bravissimo in 1995, following her

Th e Japanese designer has created

outfi ts for celebrities such as Lady

Gaga, Beyonce, Kate Moss and

Jennifer Lopez.

Th e past year has taken the

business to a new level. Kudo made

her lingerie catwalk debut at Lingerie

New York in October 2010, in support

of Bar Foundation’s Microfi nance for

Women.

Kudo also collaborated with Mugler

for its controversial AW11 Paris show,

where Lady Gaga performed as a

model.

FINALISTS LASCIVIOUS: See p.16

OBEY MY DEMAND: See p.22

own frustrating experiences trying

to f ind pretty bras that f it her. The

company provides a wide choice of

lingerie and swimwear in DD-KK

cups, as well as clothing designed

especially for big busted women.

LA SENZA: See p.17



WHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: Apparel

that is innovative, supportive, stylish and practical for

pre and post-natal mothers.

WINNER: CAKE LINGERIEFounded by Tracey Montfort in 2008, Cake Lingerie

is an international designer brand, specialising in the

creation of maternity and nursing lingerie.

This year, Cake Lingerie has significantly expanded

its range. For SS11, it added Birthday Cake, a new line

where each of the products are named after treats.

Titles include Toffee, Dark Toffee, Turkish Delight,

Velvet Delight and Coconut Ice.

It also added Cheesecake and Blue Cheesecake for the

fuller-f igured woman, and new seamless style Embrace

Me, to its growing range of maternity bras.

Cake Lingerie is currently stocked in over 300 high

end lingerie and maternity boutiques around the world.

FINALISTS HOTMILK: HOTmilk was founded in New Zealand

by Lisa Ebbing and Ange Crosbie, after Ebbing fell

pregnant with her f irst child and could not f ind any

bras that she wanted to wear. The brand aims to offer

sexy, fun and practical maternity lingerie for pre and

post natal mothers.

ROYCE MATERNITY: Royce Lingerie’s Comfort bra

collection is a range of wirefree bras to suit women of

all shapes and sizes. Once the baby is born, new mums

can choose their breastfeeding bras from the Royce

Nursing range which, again, are all totally wirefree and

feature ‘easy and convenient’ drop cup clips.

WHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: Brands that create

specifi c collections to cater for the post surgery and mastectomy markets,

displaying a strong USP, comfort, fi t, style and practical design.

WINNER: JAMU AUSTRALIATh is has been an incredibly successful year for Jamu Australia, which

recently launched its Kakadu Collection in the Netherlands, Canada and

Mexico, following a very positive reception of Jamu Australia’s designs in the

UK the year before.

Th e mastectomy swimwear brand was founded in 2006 by creative

director Lydia Leong. In 2010, it added a mastectomy lingerie collection to its

swimwear off ering and, this year, unveiled its fi rst nightdress, made with an

ultra-gauge microfi bre.

At Mode City in July, the brand exhibited a new swimwear collection,

which it named ‘Flores’ after an island in Eastern Indonesia that attracts

divers for its vivid coral gardens. Th e new range off ers ‘sexy’ mastectomy

bikinis, ‘stylish’ one-piece swim suits, as well as an asymmetrical shoulder

tankini in Indonesian inspired prints and colours.

Maternity Brand of the Year

Post Surgery Brand of the Year

Jamu also introduced a white and pink cross back Jesse bra, which can be

strapped to become a halterneck, to its lingerie range.

FINALISTS ANITA CARE: Anita Care off ers a wide range of comfort bras designed

especially for meeting the special needs and wishes of women who have

undergone breast surgery. All bras are made of soft, skin friendly material

and feature a slightly higher cut, stretch neckline and a wide, softly elastic

underband, which holds the breast form fi rmly in place.

ROYCE LINGERIE: Royce seeks to off er customers a wide selection of bras

for after mastectomy, helping to boost their confi dence and self-esteem.

It used real-life model Kelly Short (of How To Look Good Naked fame) in a

recent campaign.


Sports Bra Brand of the Year

Swimwear brand of the Year

WHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: Designers in the

formative phase of their business lives

who display design talent, show strong

business potential and are introducing a

fresh concept to the market

WINNER: OBEY MY DEMANDObey My Demand, created by De

Montfort University graduate Leanne

Brooke and supported by Th e Prince’s

trust, has been already stocked by the

likes of Wolf & Badger, Bordello, Coco de

Mer and Th e Lingerie Collective.

Th e brand was thrust into the public

limelight when its pieces were featured

in the music video ‘Tiny Dancer’ by

WHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: Innovation, style,

support, comfort and effi cacy of

product.

WINNER: SHOCK ABSORBERShock Absorber encompasses three

ranges: Core, Sports (Run, Ball

and Racket) and Swimwear (with

integrates sports bra support).

Th e Shock Absorber RUN bra was

the brand’s fi rst sports bra designed

specifi cally for runners and was the

result of 18 months of research and

design. Th e ‘infi nity 8 support’ targets

the fi gure of eight pattern of bounce,

New Designer of the Year

WHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: Swimwear brands

which display style, great fi t, support,

quality and innovation.

WINNER: MARYAN MEHLHORNHaving inherited a swimwear business

from her parents, Maryan Mehlhorn

launched her own eponymous brand

30 years ago with the determination to

combine function with fashion.

Now off ering mix and match travel

items alongside beachwear, the company

has a broad international stockist base.

achieving up to 78 percent bounce

reduction.

FINALISTS FREYA ACTIVE: Freya Active

features an innovative and ultra

supportive range of sports bras and

shorts. Th e collection off ers a choice

of soft cup and wired sports bras up to

an H cup in an array of colours.

TRIUMPH SPORTS: Triumph’s

Tri-Action series off ers fi rm support,

seam free cups for extra comfort and

easily adjustable straps. Products

are suitable for high impact activity.

DJ Ironik. Obey My Demand has

since been donned by a number of

celebrities, including Alesha Dixon for

her performance at the 2010 MOBOs

and Lady Gaga in her recent music video

Born Th is Way.

FINALISTS NICOLE GILL: Nicole Gill Lingerie

specialises in lingerie and steel boned

corsets. All pieces are handmade by Gill

in the UK.

PAOLITA: Founder Anna Paola studied

with the late Alexander McQueen. Th e

brand has rapidly become a regular

fi xture on the world’s fashion catwalks.

Maryan Mehlhorn’s SS11 collection

was inspired by the ocean. It featured

new colours, such as Peacock, and

focussed on bikinis and sexy cuts.

FINALISTSMELISSA ODABASH: Th e brand

off ers collections inspired by Italian

fashion. Obadash launched her fl agship

store in Notting Hill in 2007

SEAFOLLY: Since 1975, Seafolly has

been at the epicentre of Australian

beach lifestyle and is now stocked in

boutiques around the globe.



WHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: Businesses that support independent lingerie brands,

off er excellent customer service, operate clean and easy

to use web sites and innovative digital marketing.

WINNER: FIGLEAVESIt has been a busy year for online lingerie and swimwear

retailer Figleaves, which receives visits from over 1.2

million customers, each month, and delivers from its

warehouse in the UK to over 100 countries.

Th e company, which is owned by N Brown, started off

the year with a bang after it was voted the top e-commerce

website over the Christmas season by eDigital and was

given special notice for its customer service.

It has since not rested on its laurels, but has introduced a

series of new initiatives, this year, including a massive tube

poster campaign, the launch of its Fashion Outlet on eBay

and participation in a race in aid of Cancer Research UK.

Th e management structure of the online retailer

changed in July on the departure of former chief

executive Julia Reynolds, with commercial director

Melanie Cottrell, operations manager Stephanie Chase

and product and brand director Sue Herrick stepping up

to cover the role.

FINALISTS FOX & ROSE: Th is dynamic online boutique allows

designers to showcase their creations in an optimal

setting, using videos alongside comprehensive product

information and fi t, and a vibrant trend-focused blog.

GLAMOROUS AMOROUS: Word of mouth has

established GlamorousAmorous.com as a superior site

for luxury lingerie online. It has a consistently strong

press reputation and features across the board.

WHAT THE JUDGES WERE LOOKING FOR: Department stores that

work tirelessly to bring the most creative intimate apparel at the right price

point to their customers. Th e retailers in this category had to sell not just

their own lingerie lines, but also actively support the independent brands.

WINNER: SELFRIDGESSelfridges stocks the likes of Dirty Pretty Th ings, Fred & Ginger, Made By

Niki, Marlies Dekkers, Beautiful Bottoms, Nichole de Carle, Lascivious,

Bordelle, Damaris, Mimi Holliday, Princesse tam.tam, B.Tempt’d, Wolford

Tights, Myla, Chantelle and Wacoal.

Th e retailer holds special events for many of its new launches, featuring

everything from live performance acts through to VIP previews.

FINALISTS DEBENHAMS: With the second greatest share of the lingerie market after

M&S, the retailer’s off erings includes own brand Gorgeous, B by Ted Baker,

Wonderbra, Freya, Ultimo, Reger by Janet Reger, Triumph and Gossard.

JOHN LEWIS: This year, John Lewis has introduced brands including

Pistol Panties, Zoggs and Sweetling Lingerie. In December, 2010, John

Lewis announced its biggest ever trading week with sales of £121m.

John Roskalns, Managing Director of the Melas Group, Gold Partner and Sponsor of the UK Lingerie Awards: “It was a great night. We were delighted to be a sponsor and the organisation and execution of the evening was first rate - well done Lingerie Insight!”Richard Ellis, Business Development Manager of SpeedoSculpture, Gold Partner and Sponsor of the UK Lingerie Awards: “I can only mirror the comment by John Roskalns. SpeedoSculpture were also delighted with the evening and were also proud to be a sponsor of the inaugural event. It was great to see the industry celebrate the successes of so many brands, and I would like to congratulate the award winners. We look forward to seeing everyone at next year’s event.” Claire Franks, Founder of Intimate Apparel Consultancy and a UK Lingerie Awards judge: “Great venue, great night and above all amazing company!”

COMMENTS

Department Store of the Year

Online Retailer of the Year


BEST DRESSED: BECKY MOUNT

Lifetime Achievement AwardWINNER: JUNE K E NTONJune Kenton is truly a legend of the lingerie industry. The

holder of the Royal Warrant to the Queen and proprietor

for 30 years of luxury lingerie retailer Rigby & Peller,

there are few - if any - people who can claim a similar

degree of expertise in the intimate apparel industry.

Kenton, a UK Lingerie Awards 2011 judge, receives the

award in the midst of handing over her Rigby & Peller

business to Belgian company Van De Velde, who bought

87 percent of the company in August, 2011, for a reported

£10 million.

Making the situation more bittersweet, it is this

November that will mark Kenton’s 50 year anniversary in

the sector and the golden anniversary of her marriage to

husband, Harold.

This Lifetime Achievement Award is not the only

accolade that Kenton has received, this year. She was

awarded an Honorary Degree from Leeds Metropolitan

University in July in recognition of her life-long service

to the British intimate apparel industry.

And, while it is with regret that we see Kenton depart

from the sector to which she has contributed so much,

we are re-assured in the belief that she won’t stop

participating in the industry for which she has displayed

such a lifelong passion.



Venue

Celebrity Guests 1

Actress Louisa

Lytton, Radio 1

actress and model

Alana MacFarlane

and friend

2

By Caprice founder

Caprice and

Lingerie Insight

sales manager

Andrew Martyniuk

3

Nichole de Carle

and Dirty Sexy

Things’ Charlotte

de Carle

4

Louisa Lytton and

the Abraham sisters

5

Former Big Brother

star and model

Imogen Thomas

1

UK Lingerie Awards

2011 venue

2

Violinists perform

at the prestigious

event

3

Awards stage at

One Mayfair

1 2

3 4 5

1

3

2



FOOTBALL LI NGE RI E / INTERVIEW

1

Top and shorts

in Newcastle

United colours and

featuring the club’s

logo

1


LEAGUELEAGUEPremier

“Like all good ideas, it happened

when we were in the pub hav-

ing a pint before a football

match,” says Premier Lingerie

co-founder and director Paul

Robinson. “I just ran it past a good friend

of mine Jon Guy, who is the co-director

now and was in advertising and

marketing... By the time we got

to the match, we decided we

would form the company

and do some research.”

Robinson, who had re-

cently been made redundant

from his job as operations

manager at Wicked Lingerie in

Plymouth, threw himself into the

new project, a company which cre-

ates lingerie for Premier League football

clubs.

Th e appeal of the products was ob-

vious – after all, Katy Perry achieved

national coverage and sparked massive

debate in 2009 when she presented the

European MTV Awards, wearing a corset

with West Ham logos emblazoned across

the bust. But, the question of whether

there was a mass consumer market was

one that Robinson was determined to

address.

PREMIER LINGERIE CO-FOUNDER AND

DIRECTOR PAUL ROBINSON TALKS

EXCLUSIVELY TO LINGERIE INSIGHT ABOUT

HIS NEW COMPANY, WHICH DEVELOPS

LINGERIE FOR PREMIER LEAGUE FOOTBALL

CLUBS, AND REVEALS HIS PLANS TO EXPAND

THE BUSINESS OVER THE COMING YEAR.

27

INTERVIEW / FOOTBALL LI NGE RI E


2

Close up of

Newcastle United

bra with central

logo at the bust

3

Newcastle United

bra and shorts in

white

4

Newcastle United

bra and suspender

belt in black

5

Newcastle United

camisole and shorts

in white

22

3 4 5

INTERVIEW / FOOTBALL LI NGE RI E


He went into a shopping centre in

Wolverhampton, planted himself in

between Ann Summers and Marks &

Spencer, and proceeded to ask male

and female shopper of various ages, ‘if

we could produce lingerie in your club

colours, would you buy it?’

“Luckily, the vast majority of them said

‘yeh, we think it is a reasonable idea,’”

Robinson says.

“So, we took the – sorry for the pun –

ball and ran with it. We decided to make

a few samples up and approach Wolver-

hampton Wanderers to see if they would

be interested, and they were. Eventually,

we produced a range for them and it went

from there really.”

According to the budding entre-

preneur, female fans now make up

approximately 20 percent of clubs’ fan

base and the number is growing all the

time. During the early days of the busi-

ness, Robinson travelled the country,

visiting club shops and collecting bro-

chures. While doing so, he spotted that

there was a clear gap in the market for

women’s football products.

“Th ere are not enough products for

them available to purchase - below fi ve

percent,” Robinson says. “It doesn’t matter which club you go to,

that is the case even in the big clubs.”

In March 2011, four months after signing Wolves, Premier

Lingerie exhibited at SMEX in Wembley, a show aimed at the

entirety of the UK’s sporting bodies.

Th e company’s concept reportedly received a signifi cant

level of interest and post-event Robinson got busy contact-

ing football clubs, eventually landing an appointment with

Newcastle United.

“We did basically the same thing,” he says, “showed them a few

sample products in their colours, which was very easy. Black and

white. Lovely.”

is targeted towards the Premier League,

he has also been speaking to a series of

foreign clubs about stocking the range and

has identifi ed, and contacted, the top six

teams in various leagues around Europe.

For the smaller clubs, who might be

unwilling or unable to buy very large

quantities, Premier Lingerie off ers a more

aff ordable ‘Kick Bag Deal,’ where the

teams can buy just ten items of each of

the products.

“Th e more clubs we get on board with

this, the less stigma there is attached to it,”

Robinson says. “At the end of the day, it is

only underwear in club colours. And, we

just want to do as many clubs as possible,

so the ladies and girls that are there have

got something to buy from the club, in-

stead of the pink t-shirts or various other

things they come up with. Th at’s what we

want to do - worldwide domination.”

In line with this ambition, the company

has a series of new projects in the pipeline

Th e club, which has one of the biggest

female fan bases in the country, alongside

Chelsea, was quick to perceive the poten-

tial profi ts to be made and the plethora of

media attention that the lingerie would

attract. Products launched on the club’s

website last month and sales immediately

took off , with hundreds of items sold in

just the fi rst week.

“We are struggling to keep up a lit-

tle bit to be honest,” Robinson admits.

“Sales were a lot bigger than what we

expected and it really took us by sur-

prise, because it is still quite early in the

season, isn’t it? Th e sales that are being

generated now are a little bit early for

Christmas... I would envisage that a lot

of Newcastle guys will be buying the

products for their girls for Christmas

and, indeed, for Valentine’s Day.”

Th ere are around 20 products currently

up on the site. Th e range includes boy

shorts, French knickers, cami tops, che-

mises, underwired bras, garters, thongs

and a six strap suspender belt.

Prices range from £5 for a pair of stock-

ings through to £27 for a suspender belt.

All the products are made in Derby,

England. Premier Lingerie has tied in

with a company called Nylon Dreams

and also works hand in hand with

intimate apparel manufacturer Vixen

Lingerie.

“It is more expensive,” Robinson

reveals, “but I would rather give a bit

of work to the UK economy and be able

to keep an eye on things. It can be a night-

mare importing products when it comes

to quality, sometimes.

“One of the reasons we call the com-

pany Premier Lingerie is that we are

trying to produce a premier product. I

am amazed that no one got the name.

Th at was a bit of luck.”

Robinson is currently in talks

with some ‘very big names’, whose

identity he is unable to divulge. But,

he does reveal that Premier Lingerie

is now in a ‘really late stage’ in the

negotiations, which are to do with

licensing products with the clubs.

“So, you may be seeing a few more

clubs having our range both in their

shops and online,” he adds.

And, Robinson is determined

not to place a limit on his prod-

ucts’ potential market. Th ough,

as the name suggests, the lingerie

6, 7 & 8

Chemise and

lingerie sets in black

and white from

Premier Lingerie’s

new range for

Newcastle United

for next year. Th ese include launching

a new range of swimwear for SS12 and

potentially even designing a men’s under-

wear line.

“What has taken us by surprise,” Rob-

inson elaborates, “is the fact that a lot of

guys have been contacting us and saying,

‘where are our boxer shorts?’ So, that is

something else that we are looking at

now...”

Th e company may even be expanding

beyond the area of football altogether, af-

ter it was recently approached by a cricket

club to present some pieces. Th ough only

in the very early stages of a potential deal,

Premier is currently in the process of

sorting out a number of designs for them

to look at.

“To be honest, my wife is sick to death

of seeing football lingerie,” Robinson jokes.

“When we set the company up, we were

aiming at the football market, obviously,

but we can do anything.”

28

FOOTBALL LI NGE RI E / INTERVIEW

6

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8

21I22I23 JANUARY 2012PARIS EXPO - PORTE DE VERSAILLES - PAV.

THE LEADING TRADE FAIR FOR INTIMATES & BEACHWEAR FABRICS

WWW.INTERFILIERE.COMContact: Tel : 020 8216 3102 / [email protected]

WE REVIEW A SERIES OF INITIATIVES THAT ARE BEING LAUNCHED BY INTIMATE APPAREL COMPANIES IN

SUPPORT OF BREAST CANCER AWARENESS, THIS OCTOBER.

BREAST CANCER AWARENESS MONTH

LA SE NZA

This October, Paloma Faith and La Senza have designed a unique

collection of vintage-inspired underwear and sleepwear to raise

funds and awareness for Breast Cancer Care. The exclusive

range aims to help support the 50,000 people diagnosed with

breast cancer every year in the UK.

A donation from every La Senza product purchased will go

towards Breast Cancer Care.

Paloma Faith said:”I’m really excited about my range of linge-

rie that I’ve designed for Breast Cancer Care this year. I’ve gone

for a luxurious 1940s style and I can’t wait for you all to see it! It’s

going to hit La Senza stores in October and every penny we raise

will be used to help people affected by breast cancer. My mum

had breast cancer so this is a cause I am very passionate about.”

The Paloma Faith range will be available in La Senza’s top 30

stores and online from the 1st October, 2011.

30

BREAST CANCER AWARENESS MONTH / PROJECTS


31

ROYC E LI NGE RI E

Wirefree bra manufacturer Royce Lingerie

has pledged to donate funds to charity for

every Chloe mastectomy bra sold during

October.

In order to mark Breast Cancer

Awareness Month, the company is

contributing £1 to ‘Against Breast Cancer’

for each Chloe bra sold through retail.

Royce Lingerie design director

Jane Fleming said: “As a supplier of

mastectomy bras, we work closely

with women who have had breast

cancer and subsequent surgery and

treatment. We are delighted to be

working with our customers, raising

funds for Against Breast Cancer.”

PAM E LA MANN

Top hosiery brand Pamela Mann has launched a new initiative in

support of the Breast Cancer Awareness campaign.

The brand is offering 12 new pink products as part of a ‘be part

of the cure’ collection.

The Breast Cancer Awareness campaign was established in

1988 and runs throughout October. As well as Pamela Mann, it is

being supported by a wide range of businesses, including de-

partment store Debenhams.

Prices start at £9 for a pair of tights and for each sale Pamela

Mann will donate 10 percent of the proceeds to the Breast Can-

cer Campaign.

PI NK RI BBON LI NGE RI E

Pink Ribbon Lingerie donates 10 percent of sales to breast cancer charities all year

round. Customers can choose to donate to Breast Cancer Care, Against Breast Cancer

or the National Hereditary Breast Cancer Helpline. They can also receive £5 off their

next purchase coupon code when joining the mailing list.

The brand’s pink post-surgery products include a Lara t-shirt and jersey nightdress.

MARLIES DEKKERS

Dutch lingerie brand Marlies Dekkers has

created a new Pink Ribbon lingerie design.

The set comes in hot pink and incorpo-

rates the brand’s Delft Blue print. It also

features a charm shaped like a pink rib-

bon, the symbol of Breast Cancer Month.

Part of the proceeds from the set will

go towards fi ghting breast cancer, a

cause for which designer Marlies

Dekkers has been a long standing

supporter.

DEBENHAMS

Debenhams has supported the Breast Cancer Campaign for the

past 10 years – as a result of the department store’s fundraising,

the charity has been able to fund 68 research projects across the

UK and Ireland.

Taking part for the 11th consecutive year, Debenhams will be of-

fering lingerie sets, accessories and winter knits, with 25 percent

from every sale and £1 from every bra being donated to charity.

AMOE NA

To help raise money for Breast Cancer Care, mastectomy-wear

specialist Amoena has designed a versatile pink strappy vest top

which will be on sale during Breast Cancer Awareness Month in

October.

Available for purchase now, 10 percent of the vest’s sale price

will be donated to Breast Cancer Care, which provides informa-

tion and support to any-

one affected by breast

cancer.

The hot pink strappy

vest has delicate diaman-

te detailing on the back

and a built-in bra with

pockets for effective

support.

It is designed to

be worn on its own

or under garments to

complete an overall

look.

as

gn.

o-

h.

erie

for

ng

er’

31

PROJECTS / BREAST CANCER AWARENESS MONTH


OVER RECENT YEARS, THE MADE IN THE UK LABEL HAS BENEFITED

FROM AN INCREASED RARITY VALUE. BUT, AS THE COST OF

LABOUR ABROAD CONTINUES TO SOAR, WE TALK TO A FEW OF

THE REMAINING INTIMATE APPAREL MANUFACTURERS IN THE

COUNTRY TO DISCOVER WHETHER UK INDUSTRY COULD BE SET

TO STAGE A COMEBACK.

“I’ve been into women’s

underwear all my working

career,” says AJM Sewing

founder and owner James

Mellor. “I started in Gossard

at 16 and worked my way up through

the ranks to be in charge of the

production fl oor. When they closed

that ten years ago to ship it all

abroad, I bought some machines

with my redundancy and started

from there.”

Over the past decade, the

business has gone from

strength to strength, a

development that may have

seemed unlikely when

the intimate apparel

manufacturers of the

South Wales valleys

all closed or moved

abroad ten years

ago.

“Th e South

Wales valleys were

predominantly

lingerie producing

valleys,” Morris

elaborates. “You had

all the big brands

here – Gossard, Berlei

and Morris Cohen.

Going back ten years

ago, I would guess there

was something in the

region of 20,000 people

employed in the industry,

all producing lingerie. We are the last.

“It has all been a bloody challenge.

Th e one thing we have been really in

luck with is the labour. Because of

the closure of the businesses, we have

always had a skill base that we could

take from.”

AJM Sewing manufactures for

around ten to 15 customers. Clients

include the likes of Agent Provocateur,

Fleur of England, Lascivious, Bordelle,

Dirty Pretty Th ings, Made By Niki,

Ayten Gasson and Fred & Ginger. In

addition to lingerie, the company also

produces swimwear, furniture and

upholstery.

For many of the small to medium

sized brands, producing in the UK

makes a lot of sense. With minimum

orders, rising transportation rates

and the continuously increasing cost

of labour abroad, the appeal of UK

manufacture is growing year on year.

“Th e outlay for them is a lot less,”

Mellor says. “Obviously, the margins

are not very good in the UK, but we are

surviving. Th e labour costs are going

up all around now, so we are becoming

more competitive.

“It is never going to come around to

what it was, but I certainly think the

likes of companies that are our size

have got a good, strong foothold in the

market now. Because, by the time you

put the shipping costs on and your

fl ights over to Morocco, you might as

well make it here in the fi rst instance.

MADE IN

1

MADE I N TH E UK / REPORT


1

Andrea Billard

striped body,

manufactured by

Garment Studio

2

The team at AJM

Sewing

3

Interior of AJM

Sewing factory in

South Wales

4 & 5

Staff at work at AJM

Sewing

And, we are only two hours away from

London. It is a train ride which costs

£50 and, in two hours, if you have a

problem, we can sort it.”

Mellor is currently seeking to

grow the business, which employs 42

members of staff . Th e goal is to double

the size of the business in the next fi ve

years. Th e factory’s cutters currently

hand mark everything in, but Mellor

aims to see that the system is all made

electronic within the next fi ve to ten

years.

“Th e machinery we have is all very

modern and all the attachments

for the machines,” he explains, “so

that allows us to give a good quality

garment. But, the cutting area is a

massive outlay for us.”

AJ Sewing has already made a

signifi cant investment in machinery.

Th e initial 25 machines, with which

the factory started in 2001, have

since grown to 125 and Mellor’s

commitment has defi nitely paid off .

Despite the prohibitive costs of new

machines (around £5000 each), the

company started to turn a signifi cant

profi t a year and a half ago. In March

2010, Mellor was even invited to

Buckingham Palace for a champagne

reception, celebrating the fashion

industry.

“For a little boy from the valleys, it

was a very daunting experience,” he

says, “but, once I was there, it was an

honour. Th ere were a hell of a lot of

big brand designers and very famous

people there all for the same reasons.”

AJ Mellor may be the biggest

remaining intimate apparel

manufacturer in Britain, but it is not

the only one. Kelly Isaac, owner of

Modern Courtesan and MC Lounge,

and founder of Th e Lingerie Collective,

started Orbit Apparel four years

ago. She has since also seen a steady

demand for her manufacturing

services and is continually contacted

by up and coming designers interested

in learning more about what her

company can off er.

Orbit Apparel operates 20

machines, which can handle orders of

anything between 100 to 5000 units.

It works primarily with designers who

have at least two or three seasons

behind them.

“I would love to expand, but there

is also that comfort level of it is really

nice where it is,” Isaac says.

Isaac works with a number of high

profi le names, including Figleaves,

Harrods, Elle & Cee, Dirty Pretty

Th ings and Ayten Gasson.

When she went into the lingerie

2

4

3

5

33

REPORT / MADE I N TH E UK


6 7

industry, Isaac never intended to

open her own manufacturing unit,

but when she recognised the gap in

the market, she was quick to take

advantage of the opportunity.

“Oh my God, how can I have a

factory?” Isaac exclaims. “Th at was

never intended. Th at was never in the

plan. I never meant for that to happen.

It happened and it’s amazing, and I

love it.”

Part of Isaac’s passion stems

from her belief in the importance

of UK design and manufacture. Th e

entrepreneur, who through her various

hats has a unique insight into the

luxury intimate apparel industry,

believes that the UK has the skills to

compete in the global market.

“We have had clients that have

taken their production overseas

and it has been really quite a tragic

experience, and they have kind of done

an about turn and come back,” she

reveals.

“I think there are some amazing

manufacturing companies in Europe

who do specialise in lingerie. But, we

could stand out, like we do with our

design, as the development country for

some of the more directional products.

I think that could be a case, because

there are companies out there who

would look at some of the stuff that

we do and say no, because they are too

complex.”

Th ough Orbit Apparel is a

competitor of AJM, it operates on a

slightly diff erent basis. It has less of a

technical focus and helps more in the

product development of its clients,

though Isaac is hoping to become

more technology driven in the future

as the company moves forward.

“We are also a little bit more fl exible

with our minimums,” Isaac says.

“AJM, because they are a bit more

established, they tend to be a bit more

for when you get a little bit further

down the road.”

Th e Garment Studio is a

manufacturer that works even more

closely with its brands. Th e company

only works with up to a maximum of

50 units, but while the quantities that

it produces are limited, the number of

brands seeking its services is not.

“We are just getting to the point

now where we are getting a little bit

too busy,” founder Claire Harris says,

“so we are looking at more staff , but

we are waiting for January. Th e order

book is almost full up until January

now.”

Harris has been in the business

for 14 years and wants to use her

experience to help give something

back to the industry. Th e Garment

Studio does samples, sizing grades

and costings, as well as small run/no

minimums manufacture. It off ers an

essential service for many designers

who are either just starting out or

looking to expand their business

without high levels of capital.

“An awful lot of our clients were

fi nding that there were small orders

that they were receiving that they

were not able to fulfi l,” Harris says.

“Th en, all of a sudden, I came into the

market and they are fi nding that they

can send me an order for ten knickers,

and they are now fulfi lling that order,

whereas before they were having to

say ‘no, I’m really sorry, but I can’t do

this’.”

Not all designers choose to look to

others to manufacture their products.

Th ere are some who seek to undertake

their own production. Brands such as

Bordelle, Eternal Spirits and Nichole

de Carle own their own machines and

6

Giso stocking on

the catwalk

7

Ell & Cee, made at

The Garment Sudio

“ We could stand out , like we do with our design , as the development country for some of the more directional products.”


MADE I N TH E UK / REPORT

8

9

and is one of the last remaining UK

manufacturers of authentic fully

fashioned stockings. It uses Reading

machines from the 1940s and 1950s to

make the product and operates four

of the nine remaining engines in the

world.

Samuel Wilkinson currently runs

the company, which was founded

when his father bought the factory

from Aristoc at the tender age of 20.

Th e biggest challenge for Wilkinson is

that of maintenance.

“Because they have been running

for fi fty or sixty years now, it is literally

maintainance of the machines and

getting hold of the parts to replace

the broken ones,” he says. “Everything

is limited, even down to the seaming

machines we use. You just can’t get

hold of one for love or money.”

To achieve the best effi ciency on the

Reading knitting machines, they have

to be kept at a temperature of around

30 degrees and be kept running non-

stop. It is no easy task, particularly

when failure could result in collapse of

the business.

“Th ese machines are almost

immovable,” Wilkinson adds. “Th ere

was a company once who moved their

machines and it took them two years

to bring them back up to effi ciency.

Th ey are extremely temperamental.

And, because of the limited number of

units, they really can’t be replicated on

the cheap in the modern world.”

Wilkinson has one more machine

that he hopes to bring online within

the year and, with the increased

capacity, he plans to bring in new

stockists, either in the UK or abroad.

Like many others, he believes that UK

manufacturing will eventually see a

resurgence.

“Everything is cyclical,” Wilkinson

says. “British manufacturing back in

the 19th century was the strongest

in the world... It will come round

again. We are a cheap country to

manufacture in, because the world

will raise its level of living costs and

equality of estate. So, one day, British

manufacturing will be back in Britain

on the same scale as it was.

“I don’t think I will be alive,

unfortunately, but I very much hope

that my company is.”

8

Nichole de Carle

studio

9

A worker at AJM

sewing in Wales

develop a large percentage of their

pieces on their own premises.

Nichole de Carle owns six machines

and employs four machinists in

Chelsea, London, who manufacture

fi fty percent of the brand’s overall

products. Th e pieces were originally

made entirely in the UK, but as the

business has grown, half of production

has moved to a factory in Romania.

Brand founder and creative director

Nichole de Carle says: “Th e reason

we manufacture in-house is that my

background was initially in technical

design, so I have a lot of experience

of how to put a garment together.

Secondly, quality is a really important

part of our business and our brand.

We’re providing employment in the

UK and off ering opportunities in the

UK. I want to support that.”

Th ere are others, such as hosiery

brands Aristoc and Gio Stockings,

who follow this ethos on an even

grander scale. Gio Stockings makes all

its hosiery in a factory in Derbyshire

35

REPORT / MADE I N TH E UK


36

LONDON FASHION WEEK / REVIEW


Somewhere Else exhibited at London Fashion Week with its latest collection of adapted Speedo LZR swimsuits, which were donated by the company after they were banned on the sporting circuit.

Yes Master launched its new Black Label collection at London Fashion Week in September.

New ethical brand Charini launched at Somerset House, last month.

“There are not many – there is a limited quantity,” a Somewhere Else spokesperson tells us. “We have got some stock. When it runs out, it runs out.”

The extra material for the pieces comes from off -cuts provided by Speedo’s factories.

The products are made in Italy by Rinascere, a social co-operative that seeks ‘to rehabilitate disad-vantaged individuals and equip them to play a fulfi ll-ing and productive role in society’. Somewhere Else’s ethos is that all manufacture should be ethically and environmentally sustainable.

The brand’s range is sold via its store and YOOX.

The new luxury line, which ranges in price from £300 for a bra to £450 for a bodysuit, reportedly attracted a high level of interest at the show.

Founder and creative director Igor Pacemski told Lingerie Insight: “I have had orders, actually, which is very good and very rare at London Fashion Week. I have had orders in the Black Label collection.

“Press-wise, it has been mad. We have received call-ins from Harper’s, Cosmopolitan, In Style, Harper’s Italy, Grazia, I mean everyone.

Pacemski added: “The execution stage was only three weeks... The thought process behind it was fi ve years.”

Founder and designer Charini Suriyage said: “I thought it would be good to launch my own brand... I am working with a community that does handwoven cottons, so I am trying to get them to upgrade themselves to make handwoven silks, because it is more marketable and more expensive, so it is easier to sell, as well.”

The lace used in the products is also handmade by another coastal community, which was severely aff ected by the tsunami in 2004.

The lingerie label, which was exhibiting its SS12 collection, is sourced and manufactured by craft communities in Sri Lanka.

London

We bring you the news from a selection of exhibitors at last month’s London Fashion Week, based in Somerset House, London.

EXHIBITOR SNIPPETS

Week

37

REVIEW / LONDON FASHION WEEK

www.lingerieinsight.com / OCTOBER 2011 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

Resort wear brand Key Leaf has announced that it is looking to increase its number of stockists in the UK.

Lingerie brand Damaris presented new short film Packing Heat, featuring Liberty Ross, at Somerset House, last month.

Marlies Dekkers played a new video at its London Fashion Week stand, this year, showcasing its new SS12 collection.

Paolita exhibited its new SS12 swimwear collection at the show.

The label exhibited at this year’s London Fashion Week, where it showcased its SS12 Insects collection.

The Notting Hill based brand is stocked primarily in the US and the Caribbean. It has only two stockists in the UK, Heidi Klein and Milletre.

Designer and co-founder Claudia Chaparro said: “We normally exhibit at the Miami Show and we are already in the US market and the Caribbean, but we have very little exposure to the UK market, even though we are based in London.

“So, we thought, what would be the best exhibition to do? And, we researched and this came up.”

Damaris’ SS12 collection was the starting inspiration for the video, which was directed by Johnny Green and created in association with online retailer mywardrobe.com.

The luxury brand’s latest range is about shape and sculpting the body with bold block colours; modern, vivid, seam-free silhou-ettes, super high cut legs and deep plunging necklines for high fashion, versatile dressing.

Quoting Franco-Swiss fi lm di-rector Jean-Luc Godard, Johnny Green said: “All you need for a movie is a gun and a girl.”

The new range is based on the Far East and possesses a series of Asian infl uences, such as bamboo and birds, which are complemented by bright ‘pops of colour’.

The brand is also set to introduce a second piece of fi lm in 2011 as part of an ongoing project it has been carry-ing out with six stylists. Each stylist received a Marlies Dekkers bra to customise for a unique look.

The range featured parrot feathers and palm leaf prints, and included bikinis, rope print tops embellished with gingham frills and cherry blossom & paisley bottoms.

The products gained interest from some of the biggest names in the fashion press, such as Harper’s Bazaar, Grazia and Elle.

Not for the faint of heart, this extreme design by Central St.Martins graduate Rachel Freire is made from real animal nipples. We expect to see it on the back of fashion diva Lady Gaga in the near future.

PICK OF THE SHOW: NIPPLEPCALYPSE BY RACHEL FREIRE

Speaking on why she chose to take part in the show, designer Anna Paola said: “I think it is a really nice way of introducing your brand to the fashion industry in the UK. I did it last year and noticed that you get really good contacts.

“I love it and I love walking around and seeing all this new talent.”

38

RAVE NOUS BE LLE / OPINION


1

View from outside

the Ravenous Belle

& Don store

2

Scarves by designer

Arlette Ess

3

Candy Baker

Hosiery design

4

Accessories by Ma

Mignonette

5

Movie projection

on interior wall

Th e Ravenous Belle & Don – a

group of new blood designers

- launched with a private showcase in

September to an ecstatic crowd of

fashion and lifestyle press, buyers and

industry leaders. Th e showcase was

followed by a week long pop up artspace

and shop open to the public in London’s

inarguable creative centre, Shoreditch.

Th e concept was created by four

labels, Ma Mignonnette, Arlette Ess,

Candy Baker and Trevor & Susan,

spanning lingerie, accessories, objects

of desire, hosiery, fashion, jewellery

and homeware respectively. We’re

all new designers, each with a

very distinct style, and we had the

vision of creating an amazing space

where people could view our pieces

and interact with each brand, as well

as being able to sell directly to the

public in an inspiring environment. It

was important to us that the space we

created complemented the uniqueness

of each label whilst not distracting from

our individual identites.

Living In London, we’ve all been

overexposed to too many pop up shops

that stock a hash of designers that don’t

sit well with each other. Th ey’re often

presented together in an unappealing

MA MIGNONETTE CREATIVE DIRECTOR JOON

HAQUE TALKS TO LINGERIE INSIGHT ABOUT NEW

DESIGNER COLLECTIVE RAVENOUS BELLE & DON,

WHICH LAUNCHED LAST MONTH ON LONDON’S

COMMERCIAL STREET.

GNONETTE CREATIVE DIRECTOR

IGN

JOON

KS TO LINGERIE INSIGHT ABOUT NEW

VE RAVENOUS BELLE & DON,

NTH ON LONDON’S

RAVENOUS

BELLE & DON

RAVE NOUS BE LLE & DON / OPINION

way or they merge into each other. Th ese

were all things we tried to steer clear

of as it’s such a discredit to all the hard

work each of those designers has put

in – it must be very disappointing. If you

slave over every detail of design in your

product and marketing, it’s a shame to

then be let down at the point where

your product reaches

your potential

customer.

1

2

3

4

5

Also for the customer, we wanted to

create a pleasurable experience where

they could feel at ease to browse the

products, but also engage with each

brand in a relaxed atmosphere. So, we

decided to host evening events such as DJ

nights and movie screenings, as well as

inviting people to look at the art or just

sit on the sofas for tea and biscuits during

the day. Th e designers also work on

the shopfl oor, so are always on hand to

chat people through their products and

explain how materials or certain features

work, which customers have responded

really well too.

We carefully selected other designers

that we love and understood what we

were trying to create. We wanted to

assert an integral point of diff erence

from other designer groups; each

label we feature has its own tale to

tell, presenting a counterpoint

to interchangeable brands that

don’t engage. We believe it’s

not enough for fashion

to just look nice;

people fall in love

with stories and

characters that

mean something to

them. Each label in the

group off ers beauty in

layers: some charming,

some subversive,

some awe-inspiring.

Curiosities all.

We were

delighted with the labels that we

collaborated with on the launch and the

breadth of products we featured, ranging

from Mark Fast’s cool body-con cut out

bodysuits, to Silja Manninen’s ethereal

silk and bondage rope dresses, or Emma

Franklin’s stunning gold and black

pearl jewellery to Christianna Ibikunle’s

gorgeous leather bags.

We were overwhelmed with the

positive feedback from both industry

and the public to the fi rst Ravenous

pop up and we’re looking forward to

the next artspace that we’ll be hosting

closer to Christmas. We’re also planning

to take the concept to other countries,

presenting exciting creative hubs in cities

across the globe, off ering beautifully

stylised spaces for people to drop

in, hang out and explore

each label. Each

OPINION / RAVE NOUS BE LLE & DON

space will also off er a range of art events

to showcase the diverse creativity each

country has to off er, from screenings

and exhibitions to live music and

performance art shows.

Th e way we engage with brands is

changing rapidly and we’re excited

to be exploring new ways to present

our collections to the public. It’s an

interesting time and we’re thrilled to see

where this project takes us all.”

For further details or to get in touch

about future collaborations, visit: www.

the-ravenous.com.

66

Inntteernal iimmaaggee ooff

thhee RRaavvenous BBeellle

&& DDDon sshhoopp

77

TThhee BBiirddss vissuuaal

liigghht ddisspplaayy

88

JJewweellleeryy shhoowwwccasee

aat RRRavvenous BBeelle

&& DDDon

39

6

7

8


Did you know, Lingerie Insight magazine is delivered

free of charge to 5,000 qualified professionals in the

UK lingerie industry?

What do they know that you don’t?

For marketing opportunities, please contact:

ANDREW MARTYNIUK

T 07760 996205 ⁄ E [email protected]

WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaatttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt dddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ttttttttttttttttttttthhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy kkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkknnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnoooooooooooooooooooooowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww ttttttttttttttttttttttthhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaatttttttttttttttttttttttt yyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooouuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu ddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooonnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’tttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

If you are involved in the UK lingerie industry,

you can get your own personal copy of Lingerie Insight

by subscribing online at www.lingerieinsight.com

41

OPINION / BLACK HISTORY MONTH


“A few weeks ago, two

friends walked into a

well-known depart-

ment store and both

asked for bras in

nude skin tones. Th ey were taken separately

to diff erent changing rooms by two diff er-

ent fi tters but were off ered the same colour

bra – an orangey type number.

So what, you might ask.

Well, both women are the extreme of skin

tones, one black (quite dark) and one white

(very pale). Th e crucial point here is that

neither of the sales assistants even regis-

tered this or thought anything of the off er-

ing to both of these customers in response

to their request for ‘nude lingerie.’

Not surprisingly, what was off ered suited

neither and the store lost two sales that day.

I think of this story every time I am told

by a stockist that their customers do not ask

for nude tones for dark skins.

Th is situation reminds me of my years

of frustration of never fi nding the right

make-up to suit my colouring. 20 years ago

there was one brand of make-up available to

women of colour in the UK – one brand! My

friends and I would go shopping on Satur-

day, head into the department stores and

make a beeline for that one counter, never

stopping, or asking, at any other stores if

they did make-up for women of colour.

We knew nothing else was available. Th e

years went by and our shopping experience

enhanced, as we then had two counters we

could go to, then three and so on. What I

now feel when shopping for make-up is valid

and valued, before feeling broke after the

expense. I still sometimes buy products for

women of colour, just because... I can.

So, in this month (October), that cele-

brates black history, imagine how valid and

‘ TO ASK , OR NOT TO ASK?’ QUE STIONS SADIA SI SAY, FOUNDE R OF NEW LI N-

GE RI E BRAND BE I NG U, AS SH E TAKE S TH E OPPORTUNITY DURI NG BLAC K

H I STORY MONTH TO DI SCUS S TH E LAC K OF C HOIC E ON TH E H IGH STRE ET

FOR WOM E N OF COLOUR .

valued I feel to be asked to write in Lingerie

Insight about lingerie that at launch has

initially targeted women of colour.

I feel so proud to be able to say that in

some small way, our brand will help some

stockists satisfy a need in a not insignifi -

cant customer group.

A need that is there, but not necessarily

articulated, for the simple fact that it would

be a waste of time.

So, as we at being U start telling your

customers about our brand, imagine me

and my friends going shopping and head-

ing directly to your store, not stopping

anywhere else as we know that only in your

store can we get our needs met.

We also want to help further by running

discounts for any orders taken in Black

History Month, as you celebrate it with us.

Th ank you.”

To ask, or not to ask?

1

Bra and high

waist brief with

decorative bow

detail

2

Nude set from core

cotton collection

3

being U set from its

spot range

4

low and high waist

briefs in orange

5

Nude set from core

cotton collection

6

being U co-founder

Sadia Sisay

6

1

2

4

3

5

42 LINGERIE INSIGHT / OCTOBER 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.com

FRANC H I SI NG / ASK THE EXPERT

2

With retailers be-

ing hit ever hard-

er by the lack of

public spending,

they are looking

to fi nd ways to reduce their bottom

line — one way is through franchising

their brand. Chocolate retailer Th orn-

tons, for example, announced this

year that it would be closing many of

its company-owned stores, however it

hopes to replace these with franchised

stores in an eff ort to reduce company

overheads and protect jobs.

Rise of theFranchise WITH BIG NAME COMPANIES SUCH AS WOLFORD,

STRIP, BACI LINGERIE, BOUX AVENUE AND AGENT

PROVOCATEUR AMONG THOSE IN THE SECTOR SEEKING

TO EXPAND VIA FRANCHISING, NEXT YEAR, COULD

YOU BE MISSING OUT ON A TRICK? SHAW STAPELY,

ASSOCIATE AT LAW FIRM THOMAS EGGAR, EXPLAINS

THE KEY POINTS THAT NEED TO BE CONSIDERED WHEN

EXPLORING THE FRANCHISE CONCEPT.

1

2

Franchising can be a very eff ective

way of growing a successful business.

Instead of setting up and running new

outlets itself, the company fi nds inde-

pendent franchisees that it helps to

set up their own businesses, using the

company’s existing business as a blue-

print for expansion.

Th e franchisees fi nance and manage

their businesses themselves but pay

the company fees for the right to use

its business model, brand and for ongo-

ing advice and support. Th is allows the

company to grow faster and give a bet-

43LINGERIE INSIGHT / OCTOBER 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.com

ASK THE EXPERT / FRANC H I SI NG

and expensive,

requiring further

capital to fi nance

new outlets.

Management

also becomes

more diffi cult, particularly if the busi-

ness is widely spread geographically.

Quicker expansion Franchising can enable a single site

company to establish a national pres-

ence relatively quickly, achieving a

rate of network growth that would

be otherwise unattainable. Far fewer

resources are required to help open

a franchised outlet than a company-

owned store, as the franchisee funds

the premises and fi t-out, recruits and

trains the staff , and implements the

local marketing campaign.

“ The benefit of franchising is developing the brand at a local rather than national level . The customer then receives a better, localised service.”

1

Agent Provocateur’s

own store in

Rodeo Drive sets

the standard for

franchisees to follow

2

Increasing numbers

of businesses are

being attracted

to the potential

profi tability of the

franchise model

3

Shaw Stapely of

Thomas Egger LLP

4

Baci Lingerie

franchise store

ter return on capital than if it owned

all the outlets itself. Some of the best

known companies in the country have

become household names through

franchising, including McDonalds,

Domino’s Pizza, Molly Maid, Dyno-Rod,

Th orntons and Costa Coff ee.

Franchising does not suit every

business, however, and a franchised

business needs to be profi table enough

to make money for both the franchisee

and the franchisor company. Further,

the company business needs to be one

that can be replicated in diff erent loca-

tions by its franchisees. Businesses that

need high skills levels or professional

qualifi cations can be more diffi cult, but

not impossible, to franchise. Th e com-

4

3

Motivated management Each franchise store will be under the

ownership of an individual with spe-

cialist local market knowledge who is

in essence their own boss. Th eir earn-

ings depend upon the success of their

store, as opposed to a salaried manager

whose earnings are largely unrelated to

performance.

Capital returnWhilst franchisees will pay an initial

investment to purchase a franchise,

which will cover the costs of recruit-

ment, training and launch, the main

fi nancial incentive will be the ongo-

ing management service fee. Th is is a

percentage of the franchisee’s turnover,

paid to cover the costs of ongoing sup-

port, product research and develop-

ment, national marketing campaigns,

pany also needs to makes it worth the

franchisees’ while paying it, instead of

simply setting up their business inde-

pendently. Usually this is a recognised

brand name, providing equipment or

supplies, or providing training and

marketing support.

BREAKING OUT THE BENEFITSTh e benefi ts of franchising include us-

ing the franchisee’s capital to develop

a brand at a local rather than national

level. Th e customer then receives a

better and more localised service.

Growing a business can be diffi cult

44

FRANC H I SI NG / ASK THE EXPERT


plus to provide a fair reward for the use

of intellectual property and ongoing

eff orts. Because there is less capital

employed, the company’s profi ts are

generated on a much lower capital

investment.

By franchising, a company cuts over-

heads, reduces staffi ng and administra-

tion issues and can consequently focus

more time on developing the business.

Accelerated expansion of the business

network achieves higher economies

of scale earlier, stronger brand aware-

ness, greater bargaining power with

suppliers and can enable a company

to gain an early lead on competitors

and establish a dominant position in

its market.

UNDERSTANDING THE LEGAL IMPLICATIONS

Franchising can have its drawbacks.

In addition to developing and market-

ing the franchise, a franchisor must

ensure that it gets the right franchisees

and controls what they do to avoid any

reputational or brand damage.

It is important to put in place

relevant protections to prevent the

franchisor’s intellectual property being

infringed — for example, by register-

ing trademarks and the company

name. Once adequate protections

are in place, the company can benefi t

from licensing its intellectual property,

plus it is easier to protect intellectual

property and prevent infringement if

it is registered and ownership can be

proven.

When franchising a business, the

franchisor will enter into a legal agree-

ment with the franchisee. A clear, writ-

ten contract is essential. Th is franchise

agreement will set out what rights and

obligations each party has, covering

key areas such as: the franchisee’s per-

mitted territory and their rights within

it; their rights to use the franchisor’s

intellectual property; the restrictions

on their activities, both during and

after the term of the agreement; the

fees they will pay; the support they will

receive, both initially and during the

term; and what happens if either party

wants to bring the agreement to an

end or sell the business.

If retailers like Strip, Baci Lingerie,

Wolford and Agent Provocateur can

fi nd store operators who are prepared

to invest the time and capital to be-

come franchisees, such investments will

of course also bolster their bottom line,

in addition to maintaining high street

presence and customer goodwill.

“ The benefit of franchising is developing the brand at a local rather than national level . The customer then receives a better, localised service.”

5

A Wolford store ,

which could soon

be emulated by

franchisees around

the world

5

SHOWCASE / OBJECT OF DESIRE


COLOUR OF SOUND BY AGUACLARA

Aguaclara’s AW11 cruise collection is inspired by

the mystical Amazon and magical salt mines deep

in the heart of South America, from where the

brand originates.

Peruvian designer Liliana Villalobos seeks to

balance sophistication and daring with vibrant

hues, bold animal prints and shimmering

block colours, mixed with high quality fabrics

and hand fi nished embellishments. Each

piece is designed to accentuate the female

body and create sexy silhouettes.

This cover up, which is no exception,

is part of the brand’s ‘Colour of Sound’

collection. It is made from fl oor length silk

with sequin and beaded trim, and comes

with a matching bikini set.

RRP: £370

SHOWCASE / OBJECT OF DESIRE

Object of

BLAC K FLORE DOLC E VITA BY BAC I LI NGE RI E

These matching bra and briefs comes from Baci Lin-

gerie’s Black Label Collection, the second range to be

produced by the US brand. The collection was launched

in the UK last month in high street retailers such as Next

and Littlewoods. Bra sizes range from 32A to 38DD.

RRP: bra, £16, briefs, £6

Contact: Baci Lingerie, 0120 286 8511

baci-lingerie.com

TEA FOR TWO BY HUIT

For SS12, Huit is introducing a bridal collection named

‘Tea for Two’. The ivory collection offers a wide range

of styles, from a low cut strapless bra to a Magic Air, and

fi nishes off the bridal look with a garter.

RRP: brief, £28, bra, £55

Contact: 0153 676 0282

huit.com

RASPBE RRY COLOURWAY BY

ANITA MATE RNITY

Anita maternity is introducing a new

raspberry colourway to its collection

for SS12. The brand’s bras are seam-

less, featuring pre-formed cups, a soft

underwire, wide or padded straps in

the larger sizes and all-round breast

support. The briefs are designed to

grow with the pregnancy and come

with a cotton gusset.

RRP: £37

Contact: Anita, 0208 446 7478

anita.com

GE RI E

Lin-

to be

nched

as Next

D.

C E LE BRITY BY PRI NC E S SE TAM TAM

An exclusive addition to the SS12 collection, Celeb-

rity is available in gold lurex mesh with a metallic

fi nish. The style is designed to be worn either as

outerwear under a tuxedo, or as underwear with

an extra sparkle. It comes in sizes extra small, small

and medium, subject to availability.

RRP: bra, £56, brief, £42.

Contact: Lucy Osborne at Philippa Bradley

Agencies, 0207 499 4598.

princessetamtam.com

S S12 BY M I NT SI RE N

Mint Siren’s SS12 range was shot with four cameras in

the heart of the Louisiana countryside. All items from

Mint Siren’s SS12 collection are made of a soft rib jersey

and contain organic cotton, milk protein and cashmere.

RRP: tank top, £91, briefs, £78, cuff, £52, dress, £245,

knickers, £65

Contact: 0793 085 7822

mintsiren.com

46

SHOWCASE / LINGERIE


TRI BAL M IX BY MARYAN M E H LHORN

The horn-coloured U-shaped decorative element in

this range allows for multiple front and back neckline

solutions, while an unusual colour combination of black

and tobacco emphasizes the ethnic spirit of the series.

Styles range from a soft cup bikini to a triangle with a

push-up effect and a new swimsuit (pictured).

RRP: £145

Contact: Sophie Pilcher, 0158 024 1111

maryanmehlhorn.com

AVALON BY ZOGGS

Avalon is part of Zoggs’ new cup sized

collection for ladies blessed with a fuller

bust. The Avalon bikini top comes in a

Japanese floral fan print with surplice

neckline and foam cups for shape and

support. It is available in black, jade and

purple print in Zogg’s Elastomax fabric. It

can be mix and matched with the brand’s

belted short or classic cut bikini bottom.

RRP: top, £30, short, £18, brief, £15

Contact: Zoggs, 0127 648 6517

zoggs.com

POPPY BY SEAFOLLY

This Tea Rose Bustier DD Cup bikini from

Seafolly’s new D Cup+ collection was designed

to refl ect the trend for lingerie inspired swim-

wear. It seeks to provide a stylish and chic

option for those with bigger busts.

RRP: top, £64, bottom, £42

Contact: Seafolly, 0845 408 0095

seafolly.com

BI RDS OF A FEATH E R BY KOOEY

Inspired by the luminous colours and delicate

details of Australia’s native birds, Kooey’s 2012

Birds of a Feather collection seeks to encompass

their mystic spirit and movement with ‘sleek’

styles and custom-designed prints.

Kooey’s print designer Anne Hanning combines

contemporary style with a 70s vintage feel. The

collection includes bikinis, separates and a one-

piece swimwear (pictured), as well as resort wear.

RRP: swimsuit, £100

Contact: Charlene Harmer, +6143 991 0793

kooey.com

VE NIC E SWI M BODY BY WOLFORD

Wolford’s SS12 swimwear seeks to combine

superior style elements with figure-shaping

fabrics. Pieces are tailor-made for the

‘perfect figure effect’. Opaque-

transparent patterns aim to em-

phasise the female contours

and an expressive animal

print seeks to attract at-

tention.

RRP: £330

Contact: Wolford,

0207 529 3000

wolford.com

4747

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EVE NTS / SOCIAL LITE


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Lingerie Insight October 2011

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