Linear wave theory Example 1

For d=20 m, g=9.8, T=5 s, 10 s and 20 s, Calculate the wavelength and wave phase speed (celerity)

[Wavelength L=38.88, 121.2, 270.7(m)]

[Wave phase speed C=7.78, 12.12, 13.54(m/s)]

Linear wave theory Example 2

A Wave in a water depth of 10m has a period of 10 s and a height of 1.975 m.(a)Determine the wave celerity at that water depth (c=9.24 m/s)(b)Calculate water particle velocity and pressure due to wave action at a point 1 m below the still water level under the wave crest (take ρ=1030kg/m3). (u=1.0 m/s, p/ρg =1.95m)(c)Calculate the water particle acceleration due to wave action at this location under wave crest. (a=-0.346 m/s2)(d)Calculate the wave energy and wave power. (E=4.9 kJ/m2, P=39.8kW/m2)