Lee Valley Tools - Getting Started on a Chip Carving Project

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    Getting Started on a Chip Carving Project

    Chip carving is an ideal technique for the person

    who wants to learn a bit about woodworking, but

    has always been discouraged at the prospect of

    buying a garage full of expensive and intimidating

    power tools. Fortunately, only a few tools are

    required to get started on a chip carving project.

    You need only chip carving knives, sharpening

    equipment, and a few small pieces of wood.

    In this article, we give you step-by-step instructions

    for applying the pattern to the wood, making first

    cuts, choosing knives, and finishing. All instructions

    assume the reader is right-handed; keep this in mind as you begin. (Read over the

    "General Cutting Rules" below, before you start.)

    Applying a Pattern

    The first choice for wood is basswood. It is astraight-grained, unfigured wood that carves

    beautifully. Later, if you wish, try butternut or

    walnut.

    If you are going to follow a pattern from a book, first

    prepare a piece of wood that approximates the size

    of the pattern given. The wood should be between

    1/4" and 3/8" thick. Scrape and sand the surface as

    if you were finishing it, because you won't be able to

    do this after carving without dulling the crisp points and carved details.

    After you have prepared the piece of wood, make a photocopy of the design you like,and cut it out so it fits nicely on your wood. The photocopied pattern can be transferred

    directly by pressing it face down onto the wood with a hot iron. (Set the iron to about a

    medium heat.) This works well, because photocopier ink is actually a heat-sensitive

    powder, and reheating it with an iron will melt it, dropping the pattern onto the wood.

    After pressing with the iron, carefully lift up one corner to see if the pattern has

    transferred clearly. If not, iron some more. Do this at all four corners until you are

    certain the entire pattern has transferred clearly. Remember, be sure you have a good

    transfer before removing the paper, as you can never replace the paper accurately

    enough to re-iron.

    Another word of caution: if you iron on a piece of wood that has glue joints, the heat

    will sometimes expand them. This happened to me, but I was able to save the piece

    by re-clamping immediately and allowing the wood to cool.

    Making The First Cuts

    Many books on the subject of chip carving recommend that you hold the knife in a

    manner that to me seems awkward and uncontrolled. If you are able to carve that way,

    go ahead. I feel more comfortable holding the knife like a pen, except perhaps a bit

    more upright. This feels natural and helps you achieve a consistent angle of cut.

    While cutting at the same angle into the wood, it helps to vary the blade angle forward

    or backward, depending on the type of cut you are making. Obviously, you can't turn

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    corners if the blade is at a shallow angle, so stand

    it up. On the other hand, with small chips, you can

    actually cut against the grain by almost laying the

    knife down and cutting. By holding the knife this

    way, the heel of your hand is on the work, as is

    your other hand. The first or second finger of your

    left hand guides the blade.

    If the movement

    of the blade isaway from you,

    your right hand

    holds the knife,

    while a finger of

    your left hand

    actually pushes

    on the back of

    the blade. When cutting the other way, your right hand pulls the blade toward you,

    while the finger on the other hand acts as a restraint. Be careful to place your finger

    just above the sharpened portion of the blade when cutting toward you. For finer

    control, use your finger as a fulcrum. For example, when you near the end of a cut,

    stop pushing with your finger, and pivot the knife forward, being aware of the point'slocation, so you don't undercut.

    I carve sitting in a swivel-type armchair, and place the work on a piece of plywood that

    extends off my radial arm saw table. The work is about chest high, so no bending is

    required to see details.

    Finishing

    All traces of the photocopied pattern must be removed, or they will appear as dirt

    spots under the finish. Avoid gloss and semi-gloss finishes; they give the pattern a

    plastic-coated look. I recommend a low-gloss urethane. Sand lightly between coats

    with wet and dry paper, being careful to not round-over crisp points. If you wish to turn

    your project into a coaster, simply glue cork onto the bottom, let it dry, and trim to

    size.

    Removing just one chip is satisfying, but admiring a finished project, which is very

    beautiful, is much more gratifying. It is hard to believe that removing simple triangles

    from a wooden surface can create such lasting beauty.

    Choosing a Knife

    It is important that a chip-carving knife have a thin, wedge-shaped blade capable of

    holding a razor-sharp edge. One knife is all you need to get started; however, two

    others would be quite useful.

    The most practical knife for a beginner has a blade with a cutting edge that is

    approximately parallel to the handle (Photo 1). If you want to purchase only one knife

    to start with, this is the one.

    The second choice is a knife that has a cutting edge about right angles to the handle

    (Photo 2). It is used for stabbing.

    The third knife I would recommend to a beginner has a blade with a fine point (Photo

    3), which is useful for carving delicate scroll work, such as the corner areas of the

    pinwheel pattern. If possible, buy a knife that has a handle with a

    round, rather than an oval cross-section; it can be turned more easily in the fingers to

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    follow sharply curved lines.

    General Cutting Rules for Chip Carving

    1. Cut with the grain, as the long fibers of

    the wood will tear at the cut line when

    cutting against the grain.

    2. Don't cut too deeply. About 1/8" is the

    deepest you should go on the biggest

    chips on these pieces. For smallerchips, cut less deeply.

    3. Remove large chips in stages,

    particularly if you have already carved

    out a section nearby. Otherwise, the

    force you have to apply to remove the

    whole chip in one cut will deflect wood.

    This deflection will occur toward the

    weakest spot, which will no doubt be the

    nice crisp edge you just cut.

    4. Cut away from a previously carved chip,

    rather than cutting toward it; the wedging

    action of the blade could pop out a partof the mountain that was to be left in.

    5. If the chip does not have carving adjacent to it, remove the complete line of the

    pattern. If it does, it is best to stay back from the line when removing the first

    chip, then cut its adjacent chip, also staying back of the line. Finally, make

    your finishing cuts on both sides to split the line. At this point, watch that

    straight lines over multiple chips are maintained.

    6. Don't undercut. Try to visualize where the point of your blade is, and avoid

    leaving a score mark at the base of a cut. This is another good reason to take

    out progressively larger chips, rather than trying to remove the entire chip at

    once. Do not pry chips out. Instead wriggle them to see where they are still

    attached, then go a little deeper in that area and wriggle again. Some

    undercutting will occur, but if you have done everything right up to this point, itshould be a nearly microscopic line.

    7. To remove undercuts, turn your knife over, and with the dull side of the blade at

    the same angle as your cut, gently draw it the length of your cut, then rotate

    the work 180, and do it going the other way. The operative word here is gently.

    You are not trying to create pressed wood decorations. The undercut must be a

    very fine one. This is not a method of erasing an unintended slip.

    8. Before making marks with the stabbing knife, remove the line of the pattern with

    the primary knife, then press the stabbing knife into that cut line. Pressing into

    a line of the pattern will leave black ink in the bottom of the depression.

    (This bulletin is taken from an article by Robert Dunn and Alex Vincent, both of

    Calgary, Alberta, originally printed in Issue 8 (3/94) of WoodCuts.)

    Copyright 1998 to 2012 by Lee Valley Tools Ltd. and Veritas Tools Inc. All rights reserved.