Lecture 15Lecture 15

Sewing Thread Sewing Thread

Definitions….Definitions….

Yarn: Yarn: – Collection of fibers used to weave or knit Collection of fibers used to weave or knit

textile fabricstextile fabrics

Thread:Thread:– Thread is used to sew different thingsThread is used to sew different things

YarnYarn ThreadThread

• Used for the Used for the manufacturing of manufacturing of clothcloth• Made by fibersMade by fibers• WeakerWeaker• Less uniformLess uniform• Big packageBig package• Single plySingle ply

• Used for sewing Used for sewing purposepurpose

• Made by yarnsMade by yarns• StrongerStronger• More uniform More uniform • Small packageSmall package• More than one pliesMore than one plies

Comparison…Comparison…

Question ?Question ?

Sewing thread is selected before Sewing thread is selected before needle needle

OROR

Needle is selected before sewing Needle is selected before sewing threadthread

Sewing Thread…Sewing Thread…

It is made by It is made by reverse twistingreverse twisting single yarns or plied yarns.single yarns or plied yarns.

Reverse twist is given for balancing Reverse twist is given for balancing Yarn plies will be separated when Yarn plies will be separated when

passing through needle and tension passing through needle and tension disks if not balanced properlydisks if not balanced properly

Sewing thread…Sewing thread…

Twist:Twist:– The number of turns per inch or centimeterThe number of turns per inch or centimeter

– A thread with too little twist may fray or breakA thread with too little twist may fray or break– A thread with too much twist can cause A thread with too much twist can cause

snarling, looping or knottingsnarling, looping or knotting

So balance is the key and a good sewing So balance is the key and a good sewing thread has itthread has it

Twist direction…Twist direction…

There are two types of threadsThere are two types of threads– S twistS twist– Z twistZ twist

Which is better for sewing and why?Which is better for sewing and why?

Thread Types…Thread Types…

Basically there are two typesBasically there are two types– Natural Natural

Animal Animal Silk thread is used for silk and Silk thread is used for silk and

woolwool PlantPlant

Cotton thread is used for Linen, Cotton thread is used for Linen, cotton and rayoncotton and rayon

– SyntheticSyntheticNylon and Polyester threads are Nylon and Polyester threads are

used for Synthetics and stretch knitsused for Synthetics and stretch knits

Thread Finishing…Thread Finishing…

Thread is finished to enhance its suitability Thread is finished to enhance its suitability for different sewing purposesfor different sewing purposes

Soft:Soft:– Just Dyed and lubricatedJust Dyed and lubricated

MercerizedMercerized– Thread is mercerized. Thread gets some luster Thread is mercerized. Thread gets some luster

and strength. Also good affinity for dying.and strength. Also good affinity for dying. GlazedGlazed

– Thread is treated with starches and then Thread is treated with starches and then polished for a high luster. It gets hard, polished for a high luster. It gets hard, providing good abrasion resistance and ply providing good abrasion resistance and ply securitysecurity

Thread Finishing…Thread Finishing…

BondedBonded– Synthetic threads are treated with Synthetic threads are treated with

resins. Tough smooth coating results in resins. Tough smooth coating results in a good abrasion resistance and ply a good abrasion resistance and ply securitysecurity

GassedGassed– Passing thread from a flame at high Passing thread from a flame at high

speed. It reduces the hairiness on speed. It reduces the hairiness on surfacesurface

Thread Properties…Thread Properties…

ElongationElongation UniformityUniformity Ply securityPly security LubricityLubricity StrengthStrength

– Breaking strengthBreaking strength– Loop strengthLoop strength

Thread breakage…Thread breakage…

Wrong threadWrong thread Incorrect or damaged needleIncorrect or damaged needle Improper Machine adjustment Improper Machine adjustment Operator handlingOperator handling Wrong threadingWrong threading Worn machine partsWorn machine parts Weaker sewing threadWeaker sewing thread Less elongationLess elongation

Other Thread properties …Other Thread properties …

Color fastnessColor fastness Wash fastnessWash fastness Crock fastnessCrock fastness Light fastnessLight fastness Cold water migrationCold water migration