Last orders – Imbibe UK March 2010

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  • 8/14/2019 Last orders Imbibe UK March 2010

    1/5

    Picture the scene. Youve got one night left on earth, and with no hangover to worry

    about the next day the world is yours for the taking.Nick Midgleyasks 10 top bartenders

    for their last requests

    PETER DORELLIFormer head bar tender at the

    Savoy and all-round legend.

    Where are we going?

    London: the much-missed

    Salvatore@Fifty and The

    Dorchester.

    Whos serving what?

    At the bar will be my very good

    friend Salvatore Calabrese,

    along with Giuliano Morandin

    and Francesco La Franconi,

    now a Las Vegas entrepreneur

    with great charisma. Drinks

    will include a Negroni,

    Calabreses Spicy Fifty and

    LOr de Jean Martell cognac,

    which I first tasted in Cognac

    really special and really

    expensive!

    Whos providing the

    music?

    It has to be jazz piano. Ray

    Charles has always been my

    favourite, as well as Bazz

    Norton who used toplay in the

    American Barat The Savoy.

    He now has his own place,

    Pino Kensington, and hes

    got even better!

    Who else is coming?

    Richard Harris, because I

    enjoyed his company on

    many occasions at the Savoy;

    Peter Sellers, who always

    made me laugh; Dudley

    Moore for his terrific humour

    and great piano talent; and

    Liv Tyler who is beautiful

    with a wonderful, understated

    charm and no pretence.

    Any last requests?

    To be in the company of the

    other three remaining

    ex-head barmen of the Savoy:

    Joe Gilmour, Victor Gower

    and Salim Khoury.

    PHILIP DUFFBartender, Consultant &

    Co-Owner of Door 74,

    Amsterdam

    Where are we going?

    Cape Town, overlooking the

    confluence of two oceans as the

    sun sets . Transported brick-

    by-brick from Berlins

    Wilmersdorf area will be what I

    consider to be the best drinking

    experience in the world: Gregor

    Scholls 17-seat Rum Trader bar.

    Whos serving what?

    Several 50:50 G&Ts (made with

    Booths House of Lords gin and

    Fentimans tonic) with Gregor

    Scholl at the start of the

    evening, sitting on the bench

    seat at the end of the bar on the

    left. Switching to Pierrel Les

    Oressences Blanc des Blancs

    champagne when some

    beautiful young ladies of my

    acquaintance arrive. Then on to

    Vintage 21-year-old rye

    billionaire publisher Felix

    Dennis because hes partied

    more than anyone has a right

    to, and Raymond Chandler,

    so we could talk about booze,

    broads and boxing.

    What are we eating?

    An appetiser of sushi

    selections including the

    finest o-toro tuna, with

    Martinis made from 50:50

    GVine gin and Dolin dry

    vermouth, followed by

    centre-cut Danish air-dried

    beef covered in the bearnaise

    sauce from Copenhagens

    MASH restaurant,

    accompanied by a good

    Ptrus. Id conclude with a

    cheesecake from The Palm

    restaurant in Washington

    DC, a glass of Excellia

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    Manhattans made with Carpano

    Antica Formula vermouth while

    in discussion with my other

    guests (see above right). Well

    close off with PX Flips made by

    Timo Janse, head bartender of

    Door 74.

    Who else is coming?

    Bill Clinton for a laugh and to

    share war stories, Uma

    Thurman so I could try to

    seduce her,

    tequila, and finally a port

    with a ristretto and 96%

    cacao dark chocolate with

    just a hint of chilli.

    Any dress code?

    My own tailors work: a

    handmade white-on-white

    striped shirt and three-piece

    double-breasted gangster

    wide-stripe black and white

    pinstriped suit with very

    dark blue brogues. As the

    evening progresses, I might

    remove the waistcoat.

    TOMAS ESTESTequila Ambassador

    Where are we going?

    Im in Ensenada, Baja

    California Norte, a Mexican

    port city 60 miles below

    Tijuana on the Pacific coast.

    The bar is Hussongs Cantina,

    established before there were

    cars. This is an unpretentious,

    down-to-earth place to go and

    have a great drink and a

    fantastic never know what will

    happen next time.

    Whos serving what?

    The bartender is John

    Humphries, the man who

    refused to train the youing

    Dick Bradsell when he was

    starting upas a neophyte.

    Were drinking

    Margaritas.

    What are we eating?

    We are eating street tacos

    brought in from one of the

    many dusty corners that are

    covered with food vendors.

    Whos providing themusic?

    Bands come through the bar

    regularly. The one playing

    currently is a norteo band.

    Who else is coming?

    Im with my sons, and with

    John Steinbeck. We are at the

    bar talking, asking those

    questions which will never be

    answered.

    CHRIS EDWARDESCo-Owner of Blanch House, The

    Hanbury Club and Drink Pimps

    Where are we going?

    London. But this is not a

    holiday, its a serious night of

    irresponsible drinking; a

    luxury in fact that is now

    frowned upon in our industry.

    Whos serving what, and

    where?

    I would have to restrict it to

    the West End and Notting Hill.

    Commencing at Dukes Hotel

    for a Martini served by

    Alessandro Palazzi, then to

    Salvatore at Fifty to tuck into

    some of those really expensive

    brandies he kept locked in the

    glass cabinets. From there to

    Notting Hill for a small libation

    or two courtesy of Henry

    [Besant], Dre [Masso], Charles

    [Vexenat] and Bex [Almqvist],

    and then to the Portobello Star

    for a beer, a Manhattan and a

    couple of shots of something

    nasty from the shelf of shame

    with Jake Burger and Mal

    Evans of Mojo fame. Back to

    the West End to Quo Vadis for

    an Old Fashioned with Paul

    Mant and the boys with

    Tinis Gianfranco Spada as

    guestbartender. Then it

    would be aslippy slide round

    to The Green Fingernail to

    drink one of Dick Bradsells

    classic concoctions withNick

    Strangeway, and finally to The

    Groucho Club to meet Jared

    Brown, Anistatia Miller, Peter

    Dorelli and everyone we

    visited earlier for the party of

    a lifetime.

    Whos providing the

    music?

    Tom Waits would park

    himself at the piano at The

    Groucho with a large bourbon,

    and a fag in his mouth, and

    play.

    Who else is coming?

    My wife and kids, Ernest

    Hemingway, Peter OToole,

    Bobby Moore, Audrey

    Hepburn, Tom Waits and the

    original rat pack.

    Any last requests?

    To wake up in the morning,

    realise Id got the date wrong,have a pint of Bloody Mary

    and start all over again.

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    ANGUSWINCHESTERGlobetrotting Bar Consultant.

    Where are we going?

    The Caf Gray Deluxe bar at

    The Upper House, Hong Kong.

    Whos serving what?

    Dick Bradsell, Charles

    Schumann, Donn Beach,

    Hidetsugu Ueno, Johnny Solon

    and Dave Wondrich are behind

    the bar. Theyre serving up

    Negronis with Tanqueray No.Ten and Antica Formula, Mai

    Tais with the original

    17-year-old Wray & Nephew,

    Taittinger Comtes de

    Champagne, 29-year-old

    Glenury Royal Malt, Marolo

    Grappa di Barolo

    20-year-old, Yebisu beer and

    Pocari Sweat.

    Who else is coming?

    John Hegarty (the ad guy),

    Oscar Wilde, Miles Davis and

    Charles H Baker Jr.

    What are we eating?

    Oysters, Kobe beef and

    syllabub.

    Any dress code?

    Ideally Id be naked with no

    shame. But if my family are

    around Ill go with a

    handmade three-piece Prince

    of Wales check Brioni suit.

    AUDREY SAUNDERSNew York Cocktail Goddess

    Where are we going?

    Ill be drinking from 6pm to

    6am. I would naturally start at

    Pegu Club, and then move onto

    the Flatiron Lounge, LittleBranch, PDT, Mayahuel, Death

    & Company, Dutch Kills,

    Clover Club, Milk & Honey and

    back to Pegu for a final round.

    Whos serving what?

    At the Pegu, head bartender

    Kenta Goto, Scott Teague, Del

    Pedro, Raul Flores and Yael

    Vengroff. Theyll be mixing

    Pegu Club Cocktails, Gin-Gin

    Mules, French Pearls and Old

    Cubans.

    Who else is coming?

    Certainly my beloved, Robert

    Hess. Also my all-time

    favourite married couple; Sam

    Kinsey and Kathryn Allyn, and

    one of my dearest, oldest

    friends, Rob Oppenheimer.

    Any dress code?

    For some reason, it feels like

    New Years Eve, so I would

    probably be dressed in black

    silk and satin, with lots of

    pearls.

    Any last requests?

    If its truly my very last night

    on earth, then Id like to make

    it back home and die in the

    sack with Robert.

    ANDY PEARSONFounder of the Hoxton Pony &

    Director of Intoxicology

    Where are we going?

    London. We have such a glut

    of talent over here now that it

    would be a sin to go anywhere

    else!

    Whos serving what, and

    where?

    Id start the evening off in style

    in the bar at Rules, where

    Brian Silva would conjure up a

    creation befitting the end ofthe world, before moving on to

    Lonsdale. After a proper

    Yorkshire send-off at the

    Portobello Star with Big Jake

    Burger, Id head to my local

    pub, Ruse in Borough, so I

    could sit and have a few cold

    ones with Tony Hailwood and

    the lads. From there its across

    the bridge to Shoreditch for a

    cheeky Margarita made by Will

    Foster at Casita, round the

    corner to my favourite bar of

    the moment,Callooh Callay,

    before popping in to see the

    boys and girls at The Hoxton

    Pony. No nightwould be

    complete without a stop at

    Mahiki to see Papa Jules and

    the legendary Danny Smith,

    and then to the mad professor

    Tony Conigliaro at 69

    Colebrooke Row for one of his

    molecular creations straight

    from the lab. He may even

    find a formula to save the

    world, which of course would

    mean doing it all again the

    next day by way of

    celebration.

    What are we eating?

    If time all owed, Id probably

    do the cooking. I love to host

    and I may not be the best

    cook in town, but my

    herb-crusted rack of lamb

    usually does the trick. If the

    clock was ticking then it

    would be beer nuts all round.

    GARY REGANUK Bartending Expat

    residing in New YorK

    Where are we going?

    Well be sitting in the vaults at

    The Bay Horse pub in

    What are we eating?

    Fish, chips, and mushy peas

    with a steak pudding, extra

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    Thornton, Lancashire. My

    parents used to run it, and the

    present landlord and landlady,

    Tony and Cath Duncan, are

    fabulous hosts. We might pop

    over to Manhattan for a couple

    of drinks in Drakes Drum, too.

    Its no longer there, but it was

    where I started out in NYC; an

    earthy neighbourhood joint

    with sawdust on the floor onthe Upper East Side.

    Whos serving what?

    Nick Irving: he used to tend

    bar at The Bay and had his very

    own brand of bartender

    sarcasm that went down very

    well indeed. And Dave Ridings,

    now deceased, the

    quintessential bartender who

    taught me much. Well be

    drinking Tetleys Bitter and

    Wild Turkey 101 on the rocks.

    Its the only bourbon they

    stock at The Bay and will suit

    me just fine.

    Who else is coming?

    Jesus, Mohammed and

    Buddha, but we wont be

    talking religion. Theyll be

    taking a night off to discuss the

    finer points of the sleazy

    underbelly of Blackpool. Pete

    Townshend, Quentin Crisp and

    Johnny Rotten can come hang

    with us, too.

    gravy and chip-shop curry

    sauce.

    Whos providing the

    music?

    Dave Mallinder, the pub DJ,

    will be playing 60s & 70s R&B

    with a bit of punk, and some

    hokey stuff like Rum and

    Coca-Cola by the Andrews

    Sisters. The Who might make

    a surprise appearance, but

    they can only perform one

    song (perhaps Baba ORiley?),

    because we really want to talk

    rather than pay attention to

    the band. Oh yes, and Keith

    Moon returns from the dead

    to play drums.

    Any dress code?

    Jeans, a t-shirt and sandals.

    Its a balmy summers night

    and we can stand outside late

    as it doesnt get dark until

    after 10pm. We might just

    catch a glimpse of theNorthern Lights, which would

    be pretty nifty as theyve

    never been seen in Thornton

    before.

    Any last requests?

    Perhaps a bunch of

    middle-aged women out on

    the prowl could pop into the

    pub, too?

    SPIKE MARCHANTMixologist & Consultant with the

    Drink Factory

    Where are we going?

    El Parian, in Tlaquepaque, the

    old heart of Guadalajara. Its a

    wonderful open-air courtyard

    square with a crumbling

    splendour thats beautifully old

    Mexico. At night its a riot of

    mariachi bands and locals

    enjoying themselves. Wed

    stop off first in La Maestranza

    Cantina, an old bull-fighting

    hang out.

    Whos serving what?

    Tequila by Tapatio, Calle 23,

    Ocho and Don Julio; beers byNegra Modelo and a couple of

    cask-conditioned Dorset ales;

    cocktails would be old school

    classics like Aviations, Blood

    and Sand and the Martinez.

    Champagnes are by Billecart

    Salmon, and wines by Nicolas

    Catena. Dick Bradsell and Jake

    Burger are leading the charge

    behind the bar, and thered be

    at least a dozen others to pick

    up the strain. Jason Fendick,

    Chris Edwardes and Charles

    Vexenat take it in turns.

    Whos providing the

    music?Apart from the local

    Mariachi

    bands, which are amazing, Id

    have Missy Elliott for booty-

    shaking, The Foo Fighters for

    head-banging and a Plump

    DJs set to take us till dawn.

    Who else is coming?

    Monica Belluci, my favourite

    writer Kurt Vonnegut, Eddie

    Izzard and the Dalai Lama.

    Its my last night and I need a

    little redemption, and besides

    Im sure he would get on

    down to Missy.

    Any dress code?If only I had the height to pull

    off the cowboy look of Los

    Altos... So Im going 1920s

    broad-check gangster style. I

    need decent tailoring to cover

    the marks of an ill-spent

    lifetime.

    Any last requests?

    Ill make good use of my star

    guests talents; Kurt can write

    my obituary, Eddie entertains

    everyone at the wake, Monica

    can dab a tear away and the

    Dalai Lama gives me a free

    pass to Nirvana.

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    5/5

    DAVE WONDRICHUS Writer & Drinks Historian

    Where are we going?

    New York, as it was in 1900. Id

    observe the stations of the

    cocktail route, hitting all the

    famous bars in the Madison

    Square/Herald Square region:

    The Waldorf-Astoria, the

    Holland House, the St James

    and a handful more, ending up

    at the Hoffman House where

    my select company and I would

    explore the eatables and enjoy

    a little music.

    Whos serving what?

    George Kappeler at the Holland

    House, Frank Meier and Harry

    Craddock at the Hoffman

    House, and Id have to import

    Dale DeGroff into one of the

    bars to show the old-timers

    what a whippersnapper can do.

    Id be pretty much focusing on

    Crustas, made with the best

    brandy or the oldest Holland

    gin in the house, and delightfulthings involving champagne.

    Who else is coming?

    Id need a poet, but a clever

    one, so lets say Ovid. A

    bartender would be in order

    so, of course, Jerry Thomas.

    Throw in the crazy Czech

    humorist Jaroslav Haek,

    because he makes me laugh,

    and finish with Carole

    Lombard, for the same reason

    (that and the legs).

    What are we eating?

    The free lunch, not skimping

    on the fried oysters or roast

    pheasant.

    Whos providing the

    music?

    Since bringing in Fela Kuti

    and Africa 70 would probably

    blow every circuit in New

    York at the time, Id have to

    fall back on someone without

    so many amplifiers; say, Jelly

    Roll Morton and His Red HotPeppers with what the hell

    Frank Zappa sitting in on

    electric guitar.

    Editorial feature from Imbibe Magazine - January / February 2010

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