ROUTE 66 Road Trip By Kimber Williams

�Scenic Route

Vol. 2 / No. 2

Georgia’s Colonial Coast is a magnificent

puzzle — an intricate maze of languid streams,

acres of salt marsh, and sandy island beaches that

soften the lines between earth and sea.

From elegant Savannah, the coastline wanders 100 miles

southward to the raw, windswept shores of Cumberland Island

— a less-than-straightforward journey that demands intriguing side

trips, forays onto roads less traveled and a healthy spirit of adventure.

GEORGIA’S Georgia’sColonial Coast

dIScOvERInG

ROUTE 66 Road Trip

Georgia’sColonial Coast

FROM HIP URBAN ATTRACTIONS TO QUIET NATURAL WONDERS, THIS COASTLINE INVITES EXPLORATION

architecture

(Left page) The sun sets in a blaze of glory over marshland southeast of Savannah on the way to Skidaway Island State Park. (Above) Savannah’s extensive system of city parks and historic squares invites leisurely strolls. (Left to right) “The Waving Girl” statue along Savannah’s riverfront Plaza pays homage to Florence Martus, who waved a towel at passing ships. The majestic two-tiered Forsyth Park fountain is made of cast iron. Trolley tours offer a great way to take in the historic district. Savannah is filled with man-sions boasting ornate architecture, such as the Hamilton Turner House, now an elegant Inn.

Photo courtesy of the Georgia Department of Economic Development.

�Scenic Route

Vol. 2 / No. 2

hen John and Ginny Taylor decided to trek south in search of bone-

warming sunshine this February, the Georgia coastline seemed like a means to an end — a corridor that they would quickly pass through to reach their ultimate destination: Florida.

At least that was the plan. But when the couple from Ontario, canada, actually reached the undu-lating contours of the Georgia coast, plans changed fast.

Perhaps it was the landscape: wide, sweeping acres of tawny salt marsh grasses, tall pine for-ests, exotic palmettos, massive live oak trees draped with deli-cate Spanish moss, and pockets of unspoiled beaches.

That’s when the couple — trav-eling in a van and a tiny 1983 Boler travel trailer (13 feet from back bumper to the tip of the tongue) — decided to linger, pulling into Skidaway Island State Park, a pleasant, woodsy

setting located on a 588-acre bar-rier island just minutes southeast of historic Savannah.

That proximity appealed to John, who was eager to devour Savannah’s storied architecture, but dedicated to staying in their trailer. Sitting in camp chairs enjoying a light twi-light breeze, the couple planned their foray into the city the next morning — an easy drive from Skidaway along Georgia Highway 204, though sometimes congested in spots.

But for the moment, they might as well have been a hundred miles away from city noise, as they enjoyed the pine-scented evening in a campground that lends Rvers a little elbow-room.

“We really wanted to see the architecture and the history that Savannah offers,” John explained.

“Staying in the trailer makes it economical and personal,” Greta said. “You have things set up the

way you want them. It’s all yours.”

“Of course this is for people who

REALLY don’t mind spending time together,” she added, with a chuckle, nodding at their smartly refurbished trailer, which sports a snug 10-foot interior cabin.

The park proved to be a good find for the couple. The affordable campsites were spacious and quiet. However, a few campers we spoke with warned visitors to bring plenty of bug spray, adding that the shift-ing breeze could sometimes bring the sharp aroma of a paper plant — a reminder that you’re not really

in the boondocks.The state park borders Skidaway

narrows, part of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway, so the park is great for picnics and nature hikes — two trails wind through marshes and forest. visitors praise its excellent birding (look for the rare Painted Bunting) and wild-life viewing; observation towers provide an excellent vantage. But campers are advised to watch out for deer along the roadways and alligators near lagoons.

W

Such are the extremes of life along Georgia’s colonial coast, a place where nature brings spectacu-lar sunsets across vast salt marshes, along with ravenous mosquitoes and incredible birding opportuni-ties … where vestiges of American history meet down-home barbecue stands … where signs at a boat launch advise kayakers what to do if they should meet a north Atlantic right whale … where com-mercial shrimp boats rocking in an evening tide are a thing of beauty, as well as a familiar local icon.

It’s a place where the local color is as rich and flavorful as a thick slice of pecan pie.

Ah, SavannahThere’s an ease to the South, a

laid-back quality that beckons like a warm handshake. nowhere is that more apparent than Savannah, Georgia’s oldest city, and surely among its most quirky, likeable and vibrant.

Though famous for its sprawl-ing crowded historic downtown dis-trict, a network of quaint-but-narrow streets laid out upon a grid of public parks and squares, this community is easy to explore, even if you’re travel-ing in the largest of motorcoaches.

It’s simple. Make the Savannah visitors center your first stop.

Located in an old brick rail-

road depot at Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard and Liberty Street — follow the signs— the center is open seven days a week and houses a museum and information desk loaded with regional brochures. Most important, it’s served by more than half-a-dozen tour bus/trolley services, offering trips customized to your interests, whether that is architecture, African-American heritage, literature, regional food or even moonlight ghost tours.

This is, after all, a bit of a mystical place, said to be one of America’s most haunted cities. case-in-point: A popular paint color for residential homes actually harkens back to voodoo origins.

Hearty hikers can take off on foot, as the historic district is really only a short walk away. However a trolley ride will maxi-mize your time.

Just park your Rv in the desig-nated space in the visitor center’s pay-to-park lot and step inside to get your bearings. Tour buses and open-air trolleys line up outside, where you can buy a ticket curbside and hop aboard. We chose a $10 tour with Oglethorpe Trolleys that gave an excellent overview of the historic district, loaded with delicious tidbits, trivia, legend and gossip.

Our trolley guide, Mickey Romine, pointed out that March and April are among the best months to visit. Temperatures hover between 60 and 80 — afternoon showers are common — and flowering dog-wood and azaleas team up for a brilliant show. You can catch mag-nolia blossoms by mid-February.

“I really consider President’s day to be the opening weekend of our busiest season,” Romine acknowledged.

Most trolleys offer some drop-off/pickup service, so plan to spend time exploring Savannah’s Riverfront Plaza, where the ancient stone-cobbled streets are made of ballast rock that came from ships centuries ago. Parking here is

insane, so don’t even attempt it with a motorcoach or trailer.

Quaint shops and first-rate din-ing flourish on nearly every street. And don’t miss the elegance of Forsyth Park, with its massive two-tiered cast-iron fountain and 300-year-old trees.

next, head east to Tybee Island, a low-key seaside resort affection-ately dubbed “Savannah’s Beach.”

Head toward Savannah’s

Riverfront, turning right onto Bay Street. Stick to the route until you can catch U.S. 80, the Island Expressway, which will take you all the way to Tybee — about a 20-min-ute drive. consider a quick side-trip to Fort Pulaski national Monument, a massive brick edifice that played a noted role in the civil War.

You can let the kids burn off steam by climbing to the top of Georgia’s oldest and tallest light-

don’t Forget • Bug spray for

marshes• Binoculars for birding• Bicycles, kayak• Good hiking shoes• Fishing gear

ROUTE 66 Regional ROUTE 66 RV Network Dealers:

CRSA Camperland3844 Washington Rd.Martinez, GA 30907(706) 863-6294

10Scenic Route

Vol.2 / No. 2

Where To Stay: • Altahama Regional Park, Brunswick, (912) 264-2342• Blythe Island Regional Park and Campground,

Brunswick, (912) 261-3805• Crooked River State Park, St. Marys,

(912) 882-5256/(800) 864-7275• Darien Inland Harbor Camp, Darien, (912) 437-6172• Fort McAllister State Historic Park, Richmond Hill,

(912) 727-2339/(800) 864-7275 • Golden Isles Vacation Park, Brunswick, (912) 261-1025• Jekyll Island Campground, Jekyll Island,

(912) 635-302• Richmond Hill KOA Campground, Richmond Hill,

(912) 756-3396• River’s End Campground & RV Park, Tybee Island,

(912) 786-5518• Skidaway Island State Park, Savannah,

(912) 598-2300/(800) 864-7275

(Top to bottom) The Richmond Hill KOA Campground offers a wooded retreat with easy access to Savannah. Skidaway Island State Park, just southeast of Savannah, boasts a lush, forested setting with plenty of space for motorhomes.

relaxation

At KOA, we know how magical a few twigs can be.

From your fi rst toasted marshmallow to the last campfi re song, your stay with us will always be memorable. Unsurpassed guest service, spotless restrooms, a convenience store, a playground and pool for the whole family. The friendly

and professional staff at our 450 independently owned KOA locations make every one of your camping trips great. Plan your trip and make reservations today at koa.com,

or check out specials at koahotdeals.com. We’ll be waiting to welcome you!

koa.comNo membership required

12Scenic Route

Vol. 2 / No. 2

house and scramble about Fort Screven, headquar-ters of Savannah’s coastal defense until the 1920s.

Look for Rv parking behind the fort; then hit the 3-mile-long beach, where you can watch pelicans dive for their dinner. Grab a bite at the north Beach Grill — a laid-back establishment located right next to the fort — where you’ll find a cold brew and crabcake sandwiches.

About the only place on the island that accom-modates Rvs is River’s End campground and Rv Park, open year-round offering about 100 campsites and a short walk to the beach. call first. At press time, the owners confirmed that the campground is for sale.

100 Miles of History

History buffs will find a feast in coastal Georgia, and traveling by Rv allows you to plot your own course. Stroll a live oak avenue at the Wormsloe State Historic Site, visit the nation’s First African Baptist church, and check out Flannery O’connor’s childhood home, all in Savannah.

Or just start working your way south. I-95 is faster, but U.S. 17 lets you slow down and explore.

Fort McAllister State Historic Park is a good bet for both history and camping, and earned generally good reviews from those we spoke to. Located east of Richmond Hill off Route 144, the park sits on the south bank of the Great Ogeechee River and offers 65 campsites

Fort McAllister is home to one of the best-pre-served sand and mud earthwork fortifications found in the confederacy, detailed in an on-site civil War museum. Attacked seven times by Union troops, it fell during General Sherman’s “March to the Sea.” You’ll also find nice spots here for hiking, fishing and picnics. The only drawback? It’s about 10 miles to the nearest town, so stock up before you head out.

You could also backtrack to the Richmond Hill and check out the Savannah South KOA, a pleasant, forested setting with a 35-acre fishing pond that is home to ducks, geese and swans.

History devotees may also enjoy the Historic Liberty Trail, a driving tour that integrates history, culture and ecology. Just download the route from the Liberty Trail Map page (http://www.libertytrail.com), which will direct you to nine major historic

QuiltedSoftnessToilet Tissue

EZ-Coupler Sewer Kits

RV Water Regulator

Wheel Chocks

Building on 25 years of Quality and Integrity.

Visit www.valterra.com/25for the participating dealers

in your area.

Saveduring

Valterra’s

Saveduring

Valterra’s

history(Left, clockwise) The Tybee Island lighthouse is Georgia’s oldest and tallest lighthouse, towering over the coastline at 154 feet and offering spec-tacular views. Ships of Sea Museum in Savannah is nestled in the city’s historic district. Old Fort Screven, on Tybee Island, contains a museum with histori-cal exhibits showing island life from colonial days through World War II.

Pho

to c

our

tesy

of t

he G

eorg

ia D

epa

rtmen

t of E

cono

mic

Dev

elo

pm

ent.

nature

Operate two visors withone remote control unit!

www.carefreeofcolorado.com

Carefree’s NEW dual-visor wireless

If you’ve made the decision purchaseCarefree’s Power Visors be sure you do itright! Make the operation AND installa-tion easy with the PowerVisor Remote.There’s no need for complex and timeconsuming wire routing. The RemoteControl unit mounts easily wherever youneed within the cab for convenient access

while driving. The transmitter has an effective range of 20 ft.

Easy to use! Carefree’s Power Visors block out

the sun across the entire widthof your windshield. With the PowerVisorRemote operation is easy & convenient.Saves on installation!

PowerVisor Remote works with:

Visors/Remote_Scenic Route 03/15/2006 04:57 PM Page 1

attractions along the trail, which starts at Exit 76 of I-95.Or just steer south on scenic coast Highway 17

— you’ll find yourself in a birder’s paradise. Broad road shoulders make it easy to pull off for a scenic turnout, as elegant egrets and herons perform aerial stunts over yawn-ing seas of marsh grass.

For even better birding, hang a left at South newport and continue for seven miles to the Harris neck national Wildlife Refuge, one of 20 sites that form the colonial coast Birding Trail.

Here, 15 miles of roadway wind through 2,824 acres of forested wetlands, meadows, salt marsh and freshwater pond habitats that serve as an important wintering ground for many migratory birds, as well as the endangered wood storks and many other wading birds. Pets are not allowed.

Bring your binoculars, a bicycle or just roll down your window to drink in an avian choir that rivals a tropical rain-forest. “I just like to come out here and listen,” confessed Janet Sykes, of Atlanta.

Backtrack to U.S. 17, and you’re on your way to darien, an angler’s paradise. Rivers and tidal creeks lure many a fisherman. And during shrimp season, fresh sweet Georgia shrimp can be purchased at local markets.

While passing through the pine forest, take the chance to poke into remnants of old river plantations, or check out Fort King George State Historic Site, a mile east of darien. Once a southeastern military outpost for Britain’s colonial Empire in America, a restored version marks the site of Georgia’s oldest fort.

(Top to bottom) Harris Neck National Wildlife Refuge is one of 20 sites that form the Colonial Coast Birding Trail. Tawny acres of salt marsh grasses and slow-flow-ing waterways create a distinctive, open landscape along the Georgia Coast.

nature

13Scenic Route

Vol. 2 / No. 2

Island TimeIn no time, you’ll find yourself

rolling into Brunswick, gateway to Georgia’s “Golden Isles”: St. Simons Island, Sea Island, Little St. Simons Island, and Jekyll Island.

You seem to breathe a little deeper on these islands, replete with ancient moss-draped oaks, palms trees, and island-time ambi-ence. Take the causeway east to St. Simons and you’ll spy the Marshes of Glynn, sprawling marshland that seems to roll on forever.

Pass the elegant homes, quaint cottages and ritzy golf courses, and you’ll find Fort Frederica national Monument, the site of a colonial town and fort settled by General

James Oglethorpe, marking the ear-liest days of the Georgia colony. We stumbled across a wonderful living history celebration at the site; hands-on living history demonstra-tions aren’t unusual.

Head across the island to neptune Park, where you’ll find a bustling seaside village, complete with shopping, restaurants and a pier perfect for strolls, fishing, crabbing and watching dolphins play in the surf. It’s a great place for kids to romp and adults to simply take a load off, with picnic tables under the oaks, benches for relax-ing and a bandstand, where events are held throughout the year.

drive over to Sea Island, with its posh resort, the cloister, or zip back to the mainland and trek to Jekyll Island, where the beauty of the natural world meets architectural remnants of the Gilded Age. Pack a bicycle to enjoy paved trails that can take you to soft, sandy beaches that routinely draw loggerhead turtles.

For Rvs, the Jekyll Island campground is your best bet — 18 wooded acres on the island’s north end with 206 campsites, includ-ing full hookup, pull-through sites with amenities.

Retrace your route back to U.S. 17 for the final push to St. Marys, where you can leave your rig and catch a 45-minute ferry ride out to the famed cumberland Island national Seashore.

This southernmost Georgia barrier island is 17.5 miles long, known for its abundant wildlife, historic structures and relaxing, unspoiled atmosphere.

visits are limited to 300 people a day, so reservations are strongly recommended for the ferry ride, which does not accept automo-biles, bicycles, kayaks or pets and doesn’t operate december through February. Plan to bring your own food and water — the island has no stores or services. And don’t miss the final ferry back. Guests who do must make their own transportation arrangements.

But those who make the jour-ney are rewarded in fantastic scenery and solitude, 50 miles of hiking trails, wildlife galore and a delicious lack of development — truly the jewel in Georgia’s coastal crown. [

Good Eats, Great Sites: • Lunch at Mrs.

Wilkes Dining Room, Savannah

• Jepson Center for the Arts, Savannah

• Chicken pot pie, The Lady & Sons, Savannah

• Stroll Forsyth Park, Savannah

• Wormsloe State Historic Site, Southeast Savannah

• Crabcakes at North Beach Grill, Tybee Island

• Climb the Tybee Island Lighthouse, Tybee Island

• Fort McAllister State Historic Park, east of Richmond Hill

• Birding around Harris Neck National Wildlife Refuge, east of South Newport

• Trolley tours of both historic Savannah and St. Simons Island

• Fishing from the pier, St. Simons Island

• Look for loggerhead turtles on Jekyll Island

• Ride the ferry from St. Marys, hike around Cumberland Island National Seashore

(Top to bottom, left to right) The pier at St. Simons Island is popular for fishing, crabbing and watching dolphins at play. You must take a ferry to reach the quiet solitude of Cumberland Island National Seashore. The Dungeness Ruins, the remnants of an 1880s Carnegie mansion, offer a glimpse into history on Cumberland Island. Jekyll Island Beach is a popular family destination. Explore Georgia’s barrier islands and marshlands by canoe or kayak for a different perspec-tive. A variety of public parks and private campgrounds present plenty of options for RVers.

Pho

tos

cour

tesy

of t

he G

eorg

ia D

epa

rtmen

t o

f Eco

nom

ic D

evel

op

men

t.

14Scenic Route

Vol. 2 / No. 2

Historic Fort Frederica, on St. Simons Island, recalls the state’s colonial past.

recreation