Laluz 23

THE MAGAZINE FOR THE COSTA DE LA LUZ AND CÁDIZ PROVINCE

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Touch woodBoat builders’ fight to keep tradition alive

ISSUE 23 • MARCH/APRIL 2008

CÓRDOBAPeeling backthe layers inthe city ofthree faiths

EASTERA Passion more poignantthan most

ROTATown full ofhistory withmodernmilitary role

StaffDirector

Chris Mercer

Managing DirectorTony Summers

[email protected]. (+0034) 687 787 517

Advertising & SalesKelly Summers

[email protected] Tel. (+0034) 655 047 054

Roderick [email protected]

Tel. (+0034) 678 523 239

EditorJenny Kean

[email protected] Tel. (+0034) 655 865 569

ProductionTony Jefferies

[email protected]

DesignerRaúl López Cabello

[email protected]

DistributorDiscadiz/Javier Bernal

Tel. (+0034) 636 017 632

PrinterFotocromía

Tel. (+0034) 902 101 105

laluz magazine is published by La Luz Communications SL

Depósito Legal CA 551/2004CIF B-11784022

Registered address Apdo. de Correos 39

Vejer de la Frontera, 11150 Cádiz,

© 2008 laluz CommunicationsReproduction of this magazine inwhole or part without the written

permission of the publishers isstrictly prohibited. The publishers

reserve the right to amend anysubmissions. The views expressed bycontri bu tors and advertisers are notneces sarily those of the publishers.

Although every effort is made toensure the accuracy of the infor ma -tion and the advertisements withinthe magazine, the publish ers cannot

accept any liability.

Contents6 Letters

Editor’s introduction andall your comments

8 News All the latest from aroundthe province

14 NoticeboardA new feature designed tohelp you get details ofyour event or associationto all the laluz readers outthere

16 Focus Angel Tinoco rolls backthe years in our newbilingual feature

18 InsightFrom wind turbines tobiofuels and solar power,we take an extensive lookat the options foralternative energy

24 ProfileA commuting tale with adifference as we talk tosome of the growingnumber of expats who livein the province and workin Gibraltar

26 Why I love… A picture special from thehighly successful eventorganized by laluz

28 A Town likeA laluz reader shares heraffection for the coastalroute between Barbateand Zahara de los Atunes

32 Day TripperFollow the Columbus trail,head for the hills for avillage with cave housesor strap on your dancingshoes for the Jerezflamenco festival

36 Golf DayThe provincial capital witha ll its guile and joie devivre falls under ourspotlight

38 WeekenderFrom its wide openbeaches to its rolling hillsand famous jamón wesavour all that Huelvaprovince has to offer

43 How To…Expert advice on buying asecond hand car

44 Wild Side WalkWe’re off for a stroll in thesierras and a clifftop routewhich affords someawesome vistas

46 GardenningWhat’s hot and what’s notfor planting out in aMediterranean climate

48 PropertyYou’ve bought your newhome here – now how doyou go about furnishing it?

50 Ask the ExpertsAdvice from those in theknow

54 Film & BooksA new feature bringingsome of the finest cinemaand literature from andabout Spain to our notice

56 Cooking CultureWe look at a by-product ofthe sherry industry whichis in great demand in thefinest kitchens around theglobe

58 Eating outOur reviewers find asophisticated countryrestaurant, a tasty tapasbar and a well-stackedbuffet

60 What’s OnWhere to go and what tosee and do this

62 Advertising DirectoryLocal services, businessand classified adverts

Covered byPhotographer Simon Brown

Welcome LALUZ ISSUE 23 MARCH-APRIL 08

36Wild side WalkTPlane parsimonia rures

deciperet ossifragi, etiamcathedras frugaliter ampu

56Golf Special WConcubine libere iocarifiducias. Matrimoniimiscere aegre bellus

STE

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ZELL

46Cooking Culture

Agricolae deciperetsaburre, semper apparatusbellis spinosus miscere

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4 LETTERS

When the world was smallerIn these days of fast flights and a shrinking world, it’s hard to imagine a time when we in Europelived our lives unaware even of the existence of the Americas or the Pacific Ocean. Those voyages ofdiscovery by Columbus and Magellan 500 years ago began from this corner of Andalucía, and theboats that sailed into the unknown were built on the Costa de la Luz. The techniques and skills thatwent into making those boats are still in use today. In this issue, we trace the stories behind the lastof the wooden boats of Cádiz and Huelva.

There’s also an added story hidden behind the pomp and ceremony of Semana Santa in San Roque.Find out what makes this event particularly special in our Focus on p16. Elsewhere, Caroline Mitchelljoins in a battle from Napoleonic times in Algodonales, Tony Jefferies flies high with eagles in thesierra – and for those of you who miss rummaging for a bargain at car boot sales, Angela Clarencehas sought out some great second hand markets in a special feature on p40. There’s the usualpractical help and advice for you, as well, including a guide to unravelling the mysteries of healthcare here in Spain.

This issue sees the start of a new golfing column by Thomas Ijland of the European Golf Society ofCádiz (EGSC), with the latest news on what’s new in the game and on courses in this area, plus tipsfrom a local pro. We hope plenty of golf enthusiasts will sign up for the first laluz competition whichtakes place on Friday May 30th at the highly rated Arcos Gardens course. See p25 for details.I’d like to welcome new readers in Huelva province, where we are now distributing laluz. We sharethe same Coast of Light so I hope all our readers will enjoy the added scope of the magazine.

And finally, summer is just around the corner and we’re organising a party! The laluz summer balltakes place on Saturday June 21st in the exotic surroundings of the Hacienda del Torilejo. See p13for how to book

>

Jenny Kean, editor

Worrying issue I have recently noticed anumber of stories in the UKpress about British peoplehaving their homes in Spaindemolished, or threatenedwith it. This seems to bemainly based on the Costadel Sol and seems to happento owners who believe theirproperties were completelylegal when they bought them.I feel this is an issue of greatinterest and some concern foryour readers. Perhaps it isworthy of an opinion fromyour experts? Name and addresssupplied

> Unfortunately, this is a problem

that’s not exclusive to other parts of

Andalucía, as some property owners

in Chiclana and elsewhere will know

all too well. We report in this issue

on one British couple in Tarifa who

have taken their house down rather

than see it demolished by the

authorities (see p6), and also on

efforts to get an association up and

running in Chiclana which could

help local expats sort out problems

with their homes, amongst other

things. Our legal expert this issue

(pXX) also gives some pointers for

what to look for when buying a

property. But this is a highly

complex matter and it seems hard

to pin down where responsibility lies

with people who are sold illegal

properties. The only advice seems

to be not to buy unless you are 100

per cent certain the property is

fully legal.

______________________________

Powerful argumentI was fascinated to read in yourJan/Feb issue about theinstallation of PV solar cells onindividual houses for electricityproduction and selling back tothe power supplier.

We have just had solarpanels fitted to our villa in LaBarrosa, and in case anyonehas any doubts about solarwater heaters, the first day itwas commissioned, thetemperature was up to 50°Cand the day after 60°C – andthat in early January! It wasvery satisfying to be able tohave a long shower by virtue ofthe power of the sun.Chris Green, Swansea andLa Barrosa

______________________________

Language aidMy partner and I have beenreally impressed with your on-

line magazine and werewondering if you could help uswith some information. We areplanning to move to Sanlúcarde Barrameda this summer.Do you have contact details forany English speaking dentists,general practitioners or cardealers in the Sanlúcar, ElPuerto, Cádiz or Jerez areas?Also do you know of any expatassociations or groups locally? JP, e-mail

> If any readers have any

suggestions, please let me know by

post or e-mail at the addresses on

this page and I will pass them on.

I have also had a query about

English- speaking groups

(especially arts and crafts ones)

in the Chiclana area.

If you have a question orwant to make a point, or if you just want to tell us how you feel about themagazine, write to:[email protected] or by post to: The Editor, laluz magazine, Apdo de Correos 39, Vejer dela Frontera, 11150 Cádiz. We reserve the right to edit letters for publication

‘The boats thatsailed into theunknown werebuilt on theCosta de la Luz’

Feedback

More flights in and out ofJerez airport have beencurtailed. In all, five routeshave been reduced or cut inthe past few months after theairlines concerned claimedthey were not viable.

Following Monarch’s decisionnot to reinstate flightsbetween Jerez andManchester, a number ofairlines have reduced theirservices. Vueling abandonedits new Jerez-Paris routebarely a month after it began,and later announced it wasgiving up the connection withMadrid from March 29th.Clickair has stopped flights toBarcelona and Spanair says itwill reduce its flights toBilbao by around half thissummer.

Ryanair, which operates theonly regular connectionbetween Jerez and Britain, hasannounced an increase inbaggage and airport check-infees in order to encouragepeople to use the free onlinecheck-in service. The checked-in baggage fee has now goneup from £5 to £6 per bag andthe airport check-in fee from£2 to £3.

6 NEWS

news| water worries | pollution claims | police chief arrest | path nework | motorcycle GP |

A British couple have been forced todemolish their house in Tarifa in the face of athreat by the local council to knock it down. Melanie Coe, who runs Olvera Properties, andhusband Anthony Sharman built their woodenhouse in 2000 as the first step towards fulfillingtheir goal of creating an organic farm and livingin the countryside they had grown to love.Instead, it turned into a protracted bad dreaminvolving court cases and conflicting legal advice and culminating in the dismantling of their home.

Melanie was initially told that their 22,000 m2

of farmland, located in the municipality of Tarifa,was classified as rústico and that a woodenhouse would not be a problem as it was con -sidered removable. Their plan was to live in it fora couple of years then build a perma nent houseon the ruins of an old building on the land.

But objections by the local environmentalaction group Agaden, followed by action fromthe local council, initiated a legal tussle. It

transpired that Melanie and Anthony had beenbadly advised; not only was the land classifiedas rústico, it also fell within the natural park.

“There were so many such houses going upat the time and no action was being takenagainst them,” said Melanie. “We felt it was veryunfair that we had been singled out, especiallyas we had taken care to choose materials thatblended in with the surroundings, so I becamedetermined to fight it out.”

The couple consulted a number of lawyersbut none was able to remove the chargeshanging over the property. The final blow camewhen the ayuntamiento issued an ultimatumdemanding that they demolish the property orface a fine of €170,000.

“We had no choice but to dismantle itourselves,” said Melanie. “I had to concededefeat. My message to people is never builduntil you are 100 per cent sure you are withinthe law.”

ANGELA PITTS

Britons forced todemolish house

Airlines cutJerez flights

MARCH-APRIL 08 LALUZ 7

PUERTO SHERRY BOOSTThe Puerto Sherry marina complex, whichhas been left half finished for more than adecade, finally looks like being completed.

After a 13 year legal wrangle, a judgehas lifted the bankruptcy order on thedevelopers of the marina near El Puerto de Santa María. An agreement has beendrawn up for handling the more than €80million of debts and the port authority hasbeen ordered to hand back management ofthe marina.

As part of the deal, the companiesinvolved must now finish off the complex.This involves building a second hotel,underground parking and an additionaldocking area with around 1,000 berths. Italso opens the way for the completion ofthe houses where work stopped in 1995,leaving many of them half built.

A more ambitious plan could see theconstruction at a later stage of acommercial centre, three more hotels anda conference centre for 500 people.

The start of 2008 saw waterlevels in the reservoirs of Cádiz at theirlowest for 10 years – the last time thearea was hit by a serious drought whenrestrictions had to be imposed. In mid-February, the province’s reservoirs wereless than a third full, registering only29.5 per cent of their capacitycompared to a figure of 41.6 per centcapacity a year previously. Levels in thebiggest reservoir, the Guadalcacínsouth west of Arcos (pictured), are attheir lowest since it was created.Known as the area’s aqualung, thereservoir was only 23.9 per cent full inmid-February. The second biggestreservoir, at Zahara de la Sierra, has

also seen big falls since last year. InPrado del Rey, water supplies to much of the town had been cut offbetween midnight and 7am since mid-January.

This is the fourth consecutive yearthat water reserves have fallen in theprovince. But the director of theAndaluz Water Agency, Juan CarlosCamas, said there was no cause forimmediate alarm. He said he believedthere was enough water to guaranteesupplies for the next two years.

Water reserves in Huelva provinceare in better shape. Reservoirs therebegan the year at 65.6 per centcapacity, more than double Cádiz levels

Reservoir levels still sinking fast

Brakes on for new rail plansThe light railway linking Chiclana with SanFernando and Cádiz has run into problemsbefore work has even begun. Meanwhileconcerns have been raised that Cádiz will loseout on its high-speed rail link with Seville andMadrid, but plans are once again back in thespotlight for a new railway to be built along thecoast between Cádiz and Algeciras.

The Junta de Andalucía is keen to push aheadwith its plan for the new Chiclana-Cádiz lightrailway as part of its sustainable transport policy.But the new council in Chiclana has objected tothe planned route into the town. Now the Juntasays if need be it will go ahead with the projectand stop the line at the outskirts of Chiclana.

Meanwhile, a group of residents andbusinesses in San Fernando has lodged anappeal with the Tribunal Superior de Justicia deAndalucía to put the works on hold. They areobjecting to the compulsory purchase of anumber of properties.

The central government in Madrid has runinto trouble over the future plans for the AVEhigh speed rail link in the province. This ismeant to be ready in 2011, with the aim ofreducing the journey time from Cádiz to Madridfrom five to three and a quarter hours.

But it’s now been revealed that the upgradethat is taking place on the Cádiz-Seville line willonly allow the AVE to run at speeds of between250 and 300 kmh, rather than 360 kmh like theone between Madrid and Málaga. This isbecause the AVE will have to share the routewith slower train services.

The mayor of Cádiz, Teófila Martínez,described it as “a fiasco. It’s an AVE running onhalf power and that will have consequences forthe economy of the province,” she said.

As train services dominated the headlines,PSOE renewed its election pledge – first made in2004 – to build a new railway linking Cádiz withAlgeciras. A viability study was carried out in1999 which looked at a number of possibleroutes, including one through Los Alcornocalesnatural park. Another suggested route took therailway past Vejer, with a new station at Tarifa.

8 NEWS

Greenpeace has launched anew attack on the levels of pollutionin Huelva and the Bay of Algeciras,saying there is fresh evidence linkingthe problem with high cancer anddeath rates in the areas.

In a report, the environmentalorganisation describes pollution inHuelva as the worst in Europe, andquotes independent figures by aBarcelona university which say thecity has the highest mortality rate forcancer in Spain.

Greenpeace says that Huelva hassuffered 40 years of dumping ofmillions of tons of dangerous andradioactive phosphate residues inthe atmosphere, in the waters and inthe soil. The report, Pollution inSpain, lists the worst black spots inAndalucía; nine out of the top 10 are

in Huelva and Cádiz provinces(Algeciras and San Roque), and thereport says it is no coincidence thatthe Huelva-Seville-Cádiz triangle hassome of the highest mortality rates in Spain.

Greenpeace also names theStraits of Gibraltar as the mostworrying area for hydrocarbonpollution. It calls for proper controlsand sanctions to be put in place toprevent the practice of ‘bunkering’(when ships transfer fuel at sea) andalso to prevent accidents in the Bayof Algeciras such as those involvingthe Sierra Nava last year (picturedabove) and more recently, the NewFlame which sank in high winds inmid-February – six months afterbeing damaged in a collision with a tanker.

Greenpeace hits at pollution blackspots

JOBLESS TOTAL ROCKETSTO 12-YEAR HIGH

GR

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The number of people out of work in theprovince of Cádiz – already the country’sunemployment blackspot – reached its highestlevel for 12 years in January. The worst job losseswere in the services and construction sectors.

According to official figures, the number ofpeople out of work in Cádiz went up to 113,270 –4.27 per cent more than in December, but 8.58 percent higher than a year ago. Huelva saw a smallermonthly increase, but the figures compared to ayear ago had leapt 9.55 per cent.

The figures led to warnings of a slowdown inthe economy and a hard year ahead in terms ofemployment. The services sector is traditionallyhit in January after the Christmas season, but thepresident of the Confederation of CádizBusinesses, Miguel González Saucedo, said:“We’re concerned that the slump in theconstruction industry could lead to further joblosses in the coming months.” He said the crisis inconsumer confidence, higher prices for petrol andfood, together with the strong euro, were allcontributing to the slowdown in the economy.

Details have been given of the €100 million ingrants earmarked for Cádiz province in the wakeof the closure of the Delphi car parts factory lastyear and the loss of 1,500 jobs.

The financial aid from the Industry Ministry willgo to boost more than 100 projects – most of themconnected with the aerospace, nautical andrenewable energy industries. It’s hoped that morethan 2,000 new jobs will be created as a result inthe next three years.

Scientists inspect themarismas of Huelva


The search has been continuingfor five-year-old Mari LuzCortes (pictured), who wentmissing from Huelva city onJanuary 13th after going out tobuy some sweets near herhome in El Torrejón. Her familysay they won’t give up hope forher safe return, and more thana thousand supporterstravelled to Seville to march tothe Andalusian parliament.Many more had turned out for amarch in Huelva itself. Theparents of the missing Britishgirl, Madeleine McCann, havesent messages of support toMari Luz’ parents.

The numbers to call with anyinformation are 630 363 202 or 665 159 776

Conil police chief held over cars claim

Council’s green planfor oilThe town council in Ayamonte haslaunched an initiative to en couragepeople to recycle used cooking oilrather than throw it away.

Special containers have beeninstalled in certain areas andresidents are being asked to puttheir used oil in a sealed bottle in the bins.

The council says that throwingcooking oil down the drain cancause blockages and encouragerats. It also fails to biodegrade

easily, affecting oxygen levels andecosystems in the waterways.According to the council, just onelitre of oil can contaminate 1,000litres of water. The collected oilcan be recycled and used in theproduction of biocombustiblefuels, thereby saving conven -tional energy sources.

The containers are available atthe following times and places:Isla Canela (Fri 10am-2pm); Puntadel Moral (Mon-Fri 9am-2pm);Pozo del Camino (Fri 8pm-10pm);Mercado de Abastos (duringmarket opening hours). Thesemay be extended in future.

> Drowning tragedyAt least 10 bodies have beenwashed up on the beachesbetween Chiclana and Tarifasince the start of 2008. All arethought to be immigrants whodrowned attempting a crossingfrom Africa. A total of eightbodies were found within thefirst 10 days of January,prompting fears that a boatmay have sunk during acrossing on New Year’s Eve. In aseparate incident, two peopledied when their boatoverturned in a big wave just asthey reached the shore. Thepast few months has seen afresh upturn in the number of

boats arriving illegally along theCádiz coast.

> Save our dunesA plan has been unveiled toregenerate precious sanddunes along the coast fromSanlúcar to San Roque. Thegovernment in Madrid – whichlooks after coastal areas – hasjoined forces with the Junta torestore the dunes which theysay are crucial in protecting thecoast and beaches fromerosion. One measure they willtake is to dismantle anyconstructions that have beenbuilt on these areas. In aseparate project, work is going

on to improve El Palmar beach,where eventually the beachsideroad will be pedestrianised.

> Chiclana murderA 24-year-old woman fromConil has died after beingstabbed by a man as she wasclosing up the shop where sheworked in Chiclana. The man,wearing a balaclava and armedwith a knife, entered thebedding shop La Casa de losSueños just before 8pm onFebruary 14th, apparentlyintending to rob the till. Hestabbed the young woman whostaggered out of the shopbefore collapsing.

> News in brief

An internal police investigation is underway in Conil de la Frontera following the arrestof the town’s police chief, who has beenaccused of selling off stolen cars.

Francisco Luis González Fernández wasarrested by the Civil Guard in January on anumber of charges including fraud,falsification of papers and vehicle theft. It’salleged that instead of returning stolen cars totheir owners, he sold them on the blackmarket. An employee of a local grúa firm isalso under investigation.

The 44-year-old police chief had alreadybeen the subject of a complaint last year from ayoung person who accused him of aggressivebehaviour and abuse of authority. He wasbrought into the job temporarily in 2004 whenthe previous head of police in Conil wassuspended for assault and 14 other offences.

The mayor of Conil, Antonio Roldán, saidan investigation was under way into theallegations, and also into how the municipalcar pound was run because of the “socialalarm” created by the case.

The event took place I mid-February, with a total of 1,364bras stretching all the waydown Main Street from the ICCbuilding to the ReferendumGates. A pink balloon wasattached to every nine bras tohighlight the fact that one innine women will be diagnosedwith the disease at some pointin their lives.

“We were delighted with theresponse on the day,” said

Mark Montovio of MountProductions, who organised theevent together with AimeéJayIntimates. “We had to contendwith fierce winds and our worstbattle was ensuring we didn’tget our bras in a twist!”

The BRAvery campaign raisednearly £1,500. All the bras willbe washed and donated to acharity working with disadvan -taged women in Morocco.

10 NEWS

> Teacher electrocutedA teacher from Arcos died afterreceiving an electric shock infront of his pupils. FranciscoJavier García Jiménez, 37, wasteaching a class of eight as anelectrical instructor at anescuela taller in Bornos; hewas handling some cableswhen he received the shock.The emergency services triedfor 40 minutes to revive himwithout success.

> Via Verde photocompetition Entries are being invited forthe annual competition to findthe winning photograph of theVia Verde in the sierra. Thewalking and cycling route runsalong what was to have been arailway line between PuertoSerrano and Olvera. Up to fiveentries per person are allowedfor a colour photo. Details atfundacionviaverdedelasierra.comor Tel: 956 136 372.

Plans have been unveiled to create anetwork of pathways that will link Sanlúcar deBarrameda with Chiclana, allowing walkers,cyclists and horse riders to go from one side ofthe Bay of Cádiz to the other.

The network will consist of 360km of trailslinking Sanlúcar, Chipiona, Rota, El Puerto deSanta María, Puerto Real, San Fernando andNovo Sancti Petri. The paths will take peoplethrough a variety of landscapes including pinewoods, sand dunes and the mosaic of saltmarshes that criss-cross the Bay of Cádiz.

The project will include improving paths thatalready exist, and building 160km of new ones.

In order to cross roads, railways and riverchannels, a system of wooden boardwalks andbridges will be put in place. A number of areaswill be created for activities related to nature,culture and sports.

The Red de Espacios Libres de la Bahía deCádiz is a joint project involving the Junta,central government, local councils and theUniversity of Cádiz. It will cost €11.22 millionand should be completed in four years. It ishoped that in the future it can be extended tocreate a green network between the Bay ofCádiz, the northwest coast, the countrysidearound Jerez and even the Campo de Gibraltar.

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Path network to linkboth sides of the bay

Bras provide support for cancer fightA chain of more than a thousand bras in Gibraltar has helped raise money – and awareness – to combat breast cancer.


Golf coursedecree gets go-ahead – with stringsThe Andalucía government hasapproved the long-awaiteddecree regulating the buildingof future golf courses, with aloophole that continues to allowdevelop ments with housing andnot just hotels.

The policy has been fouryears in the making. Golfcourses built with big housingdevelopments were at theheart of the controversy, withthe tourism industry arguingthat these did not provideenough long-term jobs for localpeople. Promoters, on theother hand, claimed thathousing was the only way tomake the developments viable.

The new decree allows suchcourses to go ahead providedthey are deemed to be in theinterests of tourism and of astandard of excellence. Suchdevelopments will have to beindividually approved by aspecial Junta commission andmust also fulfill any localrequirements under the Plande Ordenación Territorio.

Otherwise, golf courses canin future only be built on landclassified as urbanised. TheJunta presidency spokesman,Gaspar Zarrias, said: “Gone arethe days when people couldbuild a golf course in themiddle of nowhere and put uphundreds of houses round it.”But Los Verdes said the decreeleft the door open to propertyspeculation.

The new decree alsooutlaws the use of drinking

More than 150,000 motorcyclefans from all over Spain andfar beyond will crowd intoJerez during the last weekendof March for the Spanish legof the World MotorcycleChampionships.

Three days of testing and racingat the Montecastillo circuit willsee riders battle it out for Grand

Prix titles at 125cc, 250cc andthe elite 800cc MotoGP bikes.

Spanish fans will be hopingRepsol Honda rider DaniPedrosa (above) can finally naila Grand Prix title on home soil,though the broken hand hesustained in winter practiceprevented him from spendingvaluable time on his bike whenthe teams visited Jerez for threedays in February.

Almost as popular is theItalian multi-world champion,Valentino Rossi (below), who willbe looking to end two seasonswithout success by reclaiminghis world crown on his Yamaha.

All the world’s top riders willbe in Jerez, of course, withAustralian Casey Stoner seekingto defend the title he won lastyear and Pedrosa’s team-mate,

American Nicky Hayden, whowon the title a year earlier, sureto challenge.

Jerez will be putting on its ownshow of welcome for the tens ofthousands of motorcyclists intown for the GP. From March 26th-30th an event called ‘week ofthe motorcycle’ will take place atthe IFECA exhibition centre nearthe town centre and the Gonzá -lez Hontoria park next door.

The organisers – Jerez citycouncil and the Sports andEvents company – will createfour circuits in the park forfreestyle riding, quads, minibikes and motocross bikes withoutsized wheels.

Inside, exhibitions of historicbikes, memorabilia and,doubtless, female modelsdraped over the latest two-

wheel technology will be onshow. The organisers areexpecting at least 80,000visitors for the five daysof events.

The GP meeting takes placefrom March 28th-30th. For tickets and information call 956 151 100, [email protected] see circuitodejerez.com

Jerez plays happy hostto two-wheel spectacular

Rivals meetat ConilLa Luz FC – sponsored bylaluz magazine – hostedanother evening of competi -tive matches at Conil Sports

Centre recently with opposi -tion provided by teams fromConil and Chiclana.

The Blues took on regularrivals Team Carlos VII butdespite a goal from debutantAli Cook and a brace fromJens Haller, lost 6-3.

La Luz Reds, facingChiclana, were 2-1 up at halftime with two goals fromcaptain Michael Thomas.Another from Sab Hamedgave them a 3-1 lead beforeChiclana recovered to securea 3-3 draw.

12 NOTICEBOARD

Cabaret timeBohemian-style cabaret comes to Conil during March.

Dancing girls, glamour and thrillswill be on the menu as the CaféParaiso is transformed to recall the decadent opulence of a Parisian-style café.

The audience can dress to impresstoo. For details, [email protected]; Tel: 653 812 471

Expats out in forcefor Chiclana meetingThere was a good turnout of an estimated200 people for the inaugural meeting of theChiclana Foreign Residents Association, and achairman and committee have been elected. It ishoped another meeting can be held in March,once all the paperwork has been done to set upthe association; all this needs to be approved bythe ayuntamiento before the association canfunction as a legal and recognized body.

Colin Wood is the new chairman and says he’sdelighted with the support the new group has had.“We will be looking to help people with their legaland electricity problems – but we’re not just goingto be concentrating on this. We hope to tackle awhole range of issues, whatever people want to putforward. With numbers behind us, we can havemore of an influence than if we act as individuals.We’re also keen to find ways of becoming moreinvolved with the local Spanish community.”

Colin says people living outside Chiclana arewelcome to join the association as well, althoughthe group will not be able to represent them totheir own local councils. For more information,see the CFRA website at cfra-spain.org.

> ToastmastersDo you feel uncomfortablewhen you have to get upand speak in front ofpeople? Do you want tonetwork? Would you like tomeet new and interestingpeople from all walks of lifeand nationalities? Come toa Toastmasters Iberiameeting and take part inour interactive workshops.We meet on Wednesdaysfrom 10.45am until middayat the Hotel Caribe in Rota.

Contact Jackie Monroyon 956 816 018 or visitgeocities.com/tmc1788

> Car boot salesSunday mornings will neverbe the same again. Two carboot sales are now underway in Cádiz and Huelvaprovinces. One in the Chicla -na area takes place on thelast Sunday of the monthnear the Popeye Restaurantin La Barrosa. Just turn up.

Another, in Ayamonte, isheld at the Tennis Club onthe N125 every secondSunday of the month.

Pre-booking is essential.Contact 959 322 574 or 667695 754. No profes sionaltraders. For more

information on these andother second hand markets,see our feature on p40.

> Charity sportingeventsTwo charity sports eventstake place in Huelva pro -vince in March. The English-language newspaper, TheOracle, is organising anofficial event as part of theBBC Sport Relief appeal onMarch 16th. There will be aspecial race in the marinaarea of Isla Canela to helpraise money for the poorestcountries of the world.

For information, contact: [email protected]: 959 328 052.

The Oracle is also involvedwith a charity golftournament which takesplace on Easter Monday(Mar 24th) at Isla Canela.Backed by Links Golf, theevent is in memory of MartineBarthelemi and the moneyraised will go to helpchidren with DownsSyndrome. E-mail [email protected]; Tel: 959 320 984.

> If you have any news orinformation about aclub, association orcommunity event inyour area, pleaseemail it [email protected] post to La LuzMagazine, Apdo deCorreos 39, 11150Vejer de la Frontera.

We need to receivedetails one monthprior to publicationof an issue

Community news in brief

Sponsored by:

To get your discount as a laluz club card holder, turn to p67 and join up now!

This summer’s coolest event.To follow on from the success of our ChristmasBall, we’re planning a party for the summer.

The laluz Summer Ball will take place onSaturday 21st June 2008 at the magnificent Hacienda el Torilejo near Chiclana.

It promises to be a magical evening with thebest music, entertainment and of course foodand drink – all on a warm summer’s evening inthe exotic surroundings of the Torilejo.

Tickets for the evening (including gourmet menuand welcome drinks) are €60 for laluz club cardholders, or €75 for non-club members.

Book now!Call laluz on 655 047 054 or email [email protected]

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Our website is:www.dipronautica.com which givesyou all the information on ourservices and facilities

Andalucía’s uniquecrystal turquoise lake of adventureOur Nautical Sports & Adventure centre issituated in exquisite countryside outside Algarand San Jose del Valle, near Arcos de LaFrontera in the Cadiz region of Andalusia. Thisexclusive and ecological centre is based aroundthe clear & turquoise waters of the 16km longlake Guadalcacin and has a back-drop ofbeautiful rolling hills and the mountains ofGrazalema & Alcornocales natural parks. Dueto the favourable climate of the province, ourcentre can be enjoyed throughout the year.

We offer a wide range of sailing, water sportsand leisure activities catering for all ages andtastes. The centre has locations at either end ofthe lake including an inland beach and marinaswith pedaloe, canoe and windsurf hire, yachtcruises, sailing lessons, wakeboarding and landactivities such as quads, cable zip wire, archeryamongst many. The Country Club at San Josedel Valle has a fabulous beach bar offeringlocal delicacies with many picnic and BBQareas, a children’s playground and exclusivecamping ground, all situated close to ourinland sandy beach along with spectacularviews of the lake and mountains. At Algarstands our country hotel in the hills whichaccommodates up 63 people and has awonderful terrace overlooking the lake andoffers many beautiful walking routes and rockclimbing opportunities.

We are a brand new company providingadventure days and holidays, educationalcamps, school summer camps, group holidays,tailor made holidays, team building andcorporate events. It is a family based companyrun by my Spanish partner Jose Ramon(J.R) who is a former Olympic yachtsman, andmyself Mel Aston (former Bridget Jones

singleton from the midlands), Russell Powellour loyal business partner and of course ourlittle son Ramon James – just nine months old,our little instructor in training

We have been commended in many newspaperarticles and TV programmes in Spain on ournew take on adventure holidays. This hasinvolved transforming a huge reservoir into anecological sports and adventure centre with abeautiful sandy beach and nature reserve; hometo turtles, flamingos, a former near to extinctfishing eagle and many species of fish (we arealso growing caviar). Our hotel is run by solarpower and we only allow a bare minimumnumber of motor boats on the lake, with most nautical transport being yachts, pedaloeand canoes.

Adventure holidays, it has been said, is the newwave in holidays as people no longer want atypical lazy beach holiday. Therefore we provideactivities for all types of people and of all ageswith anything from a relaxing, gentle activityprogrammes to an extreme high adrenaline-packed adventure. We have provided adventureholidays for people such as language students,disabled children, children with learningdifficulties, Moroccan orphans, senior citizens,doctors, hen parties, professors, executives,families and groups of friends of all nationalities.

We have now secured contracts with asuccessful and well known adventure holidaycompany PGL for children and teenagers, andwith many language schools. This year we hadour first British wedding on the beach with thebride arriving to the ceremony by yacht and thegroom by speed boat and also hosted our firstinternational concert in August.

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16 FOCUS | EASTER IN SAN ROQUE

The pride andthe passion

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SemanaSantaglossaryPasosThe floatsbearing statuesof Christ and theVirgin Mary,heavily adornedwith silver andgold anddecorated withflowers andcandles.

Costaleros/costalerasThe men orwomen whocarry the floats,usually 30-40 ofthem beneatheach one. Oftenthey arebeneath a ‘skirt’that covers theframe of thefloat completely,making itimpossible forthem to see out.They are guidedby a capataz orforeman whodirects themovement ofthe float. Thecostaleros haveto take frequentrests andmanoeuvre thecumbersomefloats with smallswayingmovements.

Cofradías The brother -hoods thatorganise thecarrying of eachfloat. Each hasits own tuniccolours.

NazarenosThe hoodedpenitents whocover their facesin a sign ofmourning andpenitence forthe sins theyhave committed.


Colour, noise, passion and emotion – as in therest of Andalucía, Semana Santa in San Roque has all ofthese in abundance. But it also has something more;these processions are as old as the town itself and canbe seen as an expression not just of religious devotion butof a people said to have been living in exile for more thanthree hundred years.

San Roque was founded in the wake of the occupationof Gibraltar by Anglo-Dutch forces in 1704. Some 5,000Spaniards rejected the British offer to remain on the Rockand fled to the mainland. They left with few of theirpossessions – but they did take with them some of thereligious statues and images they had venerated inGibraltar. And the ones they couldn’t take, they latermanaged to ‘rescue’. So the floats that now processthrough San Roque during Holy Week bear those samecenturies-old images, a solemn reminder not just of thePassion of Christ but of a home lost for 300 years.

The story behind the processions is not their only claimto fame, however. San Roque was also the first town in

Spain where women broke into the exclusively male worldof the brotherhoods and lifted one of the pasos or floats.This year will see the 20th anniversary of female costalerasmaking their appearance for the first time, and the prideof the women who carry the image of la Merced onWednesday of Holy Week can still be seen on the faces of today’s participants. Women now also carry anotherfloat (Nuestra Señora del Mayor Dolor) on Monday of Holy Week.

As in other towns across Andalucía, processions takeplace throughout the week running up to Easter itself, witha silent procession on the night of Maundy Thursday. Andin San Roque, the Good Friday climax is even moreimpressive: All 14 of the floats are carried through thestreets in what is the only ‘Magna’ procession to be held annually in Andalucía. ________________________________________________For more information, contact the San Roquetourist office on 956 694 005. Most proces -sions start late (after 9pm)

18 INSIGHT | BOAT BUILDING

According to ancient Cádiz legend, as told bythe Greek philosopher Philostratus in the third centuryBC, the dying never pass away while the tide is high onthe beaches of Cádiz. The metaphor, equating high tideswith life and low tides with death, explains in a verydramatic way the deep link that the people of this areahave with the sea.

Man first started building vessels to journey across thewaters thousands of years ago. From the firstrudimentary rafts and canoes dating back 50,000 yearsand found in New Guinea, it was to be many yearsbefore the Phoenicians used the cedar trees of Lebanonto build the powerful fleet that conquered the whole ofthe Mare Nostrum. By then the great technological leaptowards naval architecture had taken place: boats builtof wood.

Taking advantage of the routes and the techniquesused by the Phoenicians, the Roman Empire built anenormous conquering war fleet. The Roman boatscarried cargos of garum (fish sauce) from Baelo Claudia,silver from Almadén and minerals from Río Tinto. Youonly have to think of those Roman galleys depicted oncelluloid, manned by lines of slaves rowing on each side.

Navigation dipped in the early Middle Ages and didnot recover until the 15th century, when new shipdesigns appeared, maritime commercial routes werereactivated and sea travel thrived. Columbus, Magellanand Elcano (see separate box) set out from the shores ofCádiz and Huelva to discover new routes and newworlds, preparing the way for the golden age of seafaringand boat building in these areas. The old ships that hadbeen used to sail the Baltic and Mediterranean seaswere changed for galleons and caravels, ships designedfor ocean sailing where they had to deal with variablewinds, shallow waters and unknown rivers.

Wood was in demand as a material for boat building,because it is lighter than water and is very resistant inrelation to its weight. The great demand for large woodenships increased from the 16th to the 19th century as newroutes between Europe and America were discovered. Thishad a significant environmental impact on both sides ofthe ocean, because these ships suffered severe weatheringand the fleets needed repairs and renewing continually.

This increasing demand for wood meant that wholeforests simply disappeared. In Europe, trees weren’t onlycut down inland, but also along the banks of the riverswhich transported the wood to the large estuary ports. Thefelling meant that soil erosion rose drastically, carryingsediment towards these large ports and in many cases,silting them up. Many great ancient ports disap peared thisway: Ostia near Rome, the Phoeni cians’ ports, evenBruges (which became perma nently blocked in 1460 afterhaving been the major merchant port in northern Europe).Palos de Moguer in Huelva, from where Columbus sailedtowards America, suffered the same fate.

In Spain, maritime trade in the first years of theAmerican conquest was based at Seville. This meantthat the ships had to be small in order to get up the river.On the other hand, in Lisbon, where the entrance to theport was clean, ships where larger. One of them, theMadre de Deus, was captured in 1592 by the British,who then found they could not sail it into Londonbecause of its deep draught.

The Portuguese, the French, the Spanish, the British,the Dutch... for centuries, most of Europe seemed to bebuilding wooden boats. It wasn’t until the mid-19thcentury that other materials were used in naval architecture.And today the wooden boat yards are struggling tosurvive, a whole trade and craft in danger of extinction.Few follow their forebears into the trade as apprentices.

tide turnsforancient craftSusana Mato on a disappearing trade which has been anintegral part of life in the province for thousands of years


The Não Victoria, built in IslaCristina, is a perfect replica ofthe boat used in Magellan’sexpedition that was the first to ircumnavigate the globe

BuildinghistoryThe Costa de la Luz was once thelaunching point for some of thegreat sea journeys that shapedthe world as we know it today. Notsurprisingly, therefore, it also hasone of the strongest traditions ofboat building. It was from theprovinces of Huelva and Cádiz thatColumbus set out to discover theAmericas in the late fifteenthcentury; replicas of the woodenboats he used can be seen todayat Palos de la Frontera (see laluzissue 22, Daytripper p32). Theoriginal boat, La Niña, was built inMoguer in Huelva, and today’sreplica also has a link with thearea: It was built in Barbate forExpo 92 in Seville.

Não Victoria – built in Isla Cristinaand often seen in Barbate, whereit is repaired and maintained – is aperfect replica of the original shipof the same name which was thefirst to circumnavigate the world.The Victoria was one of five shipsthat left Seville in 1519 under thecommand of Ferdinand Magellan,who was tasked with finding aroute westwards via the Americasto the Spice Islands. It was theonly one to return in 1522 – its 18crew all that were left of the 265men who had started out threeyears earlier. Magellan himselfhad been killed in the Philippines,so although he is credited withbeing the first man tocircumnavigate the globe, in factthat honour belongs to theSpaniard Juan Sebastián Elcano,who captained the Victoria.

Today these galleons look likepart of a set from Pirates of theCaribbean or Peter Pan. But theyonce pioneered a course throughoceans previously unknown tocivilized man, and changedhistory. The skills of the men whobuilt them live on in Huelva andCádiz today.

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José Castillo is more than 60 years old and has spent halfa century among the ribs of the boats he builds in Barbate.When he started work at the shipyard, there were 30 mastercarpenters, 30 workers and about 20 apprentices building10 boats at a time. Nowadays there are only five people andfew boats.

When he started there was great secrecy in the trade. The masters did not want to reveal the process of drawingthe pieces to scale. If someone learnt, it meant that they hadmade the effort and not because it was made easy for them.Today this is different. In fact, Josépatiently explained the wholeprocess of boat building in detail,pointing to the plans hanging on the walls.

“First, I join several equal planks to make a solid block with largebolts. Then I start moulding theblock to the shape I want to give thehull.” He shows off the sculpture hehas just finished for a boat, andwhich he has built in exactly thatmanner – as a sculptor.

“When the hull is as I want it, Iseparate the planks and start takingmeasurements to bring it up to scale. You can work with ascale of 1:10, which means that if I want a boat to be 10metres long, the length of my model must be one metre.Next, each plank must be marked working from the widestpoint of the boat, which is where the main rib goes…” Hiseyes light up and he does some mental arithmetic whiletracing many lines in this puzzle of planks scattered all overhis workbench. From sculptor to mathematician.

“Once we have drawn out the distribution of the ribs I only have to start drawing the scaled plan and start fixing the keel,” he says. What he has just done in a few minutesis draw out all the plans – this time, the engineer in action.

“And now to choose the wood. In Barbate we havealways used stone pine from La Breña to build the boats.The wood is smoother and has fewer knots. When I started

in the trade this was the wood we used for the whole boat.Nowadays people prefer harder wood, especially for thekeel. We use eucalyptus, which grows locally, although wesometimes use iroko (African teak) or sapeli. And Scots pinefor the deck because it is harder.”

Walking among huge trunks cut into thick planks, hechooses the natural curves and bends in the planks that willfit and adapt easier to the ribs, taking into account theamount of knots and the degree of humidity in the plank. Toadd to all the other skills, he is now simply the carpenter, at

ease with his work.“I am lucky, because my son always

liked coming into the workshop andhas continued with the trade. But everyday there is less work for a carpenter.We continue to repair old boatsbecause nobody wants brand newwooden boats anymore. And one thingis certain: a wooden boat will outliveany fisherman it was built for. Theoldest boat we have repaired is theTrafalgar. It’s 17m long and more than80 years old. And there it is – out onthe sea, still fishing.”

In José’s huge workshop, a boat isunder construction. The skeleton is set up, the keel like aspine and the ribs resembling human ones.

“I just need to place the lining over this structure. Thebends and curves between one plank and another areachieved by forcing them against each other with jacks untilthey reach the precise spot and then they can be nailed intoplace. When the curve or bend is more pronounced, weheat the planks, submerging them in boiling water.”

In the distance can be heard the unmistakable andconstant rhythm of the caulker, sealing the holes on anotherboat. In this case, the tools are the same as the Phoeniciansor Romans used: a kind of esparto grass fibre covered inpitch which is then plugged into the gaps between planksand rammed into place with a tool that resembles a widescrewdriver and a mallet.

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Master boat builderJosé Castillo inBarbate first makes adetailed model builtto scale and usingthe same techniquesas for the biggerboats such as theDolores (bottomright), here beingconstructed in Conil

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be admired and nurtured’

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A new fishing boat,the Dolores, being

built using centuries-old techniques at theMuñoz Ruiz boatyard

in Conil

“And that’s the last part,” says José. “Seal up all thecracks, paint it and put it in the water”. For him this is a dailyroutine. After all these years, after having built more boatsthan he can remember, he is thrilled with his model boats.He puts them together with the same precision as he doesthe big boats.

He is one of the few wooden boat builders left, although on the Costa de la Luz you can still find greatprofessionals from Ayamonte to Algeciras, including IslaCristina, Punta Umbria, Sanlúcar, El Puerto de Santa María,Conil and Tarifa.

The excellence of these master craftsmen is something tobe admired and nurtured. In Conil, one wooden boatyard hasset up its own web page (elcarpinteroderibera.net), and planshave been unveiled to create a new apprentice scheme inBellavista on the Guadiana river to help save these traditionalskills. Around 30 youngsters from deprived areas of Sevillewill learn how to build a replica of an 18th century galleon, theAndalucía, which will sail to Expo Shanghai in 2010.

All this offers some hope for the future, so that coming gen -era tions have the knowledge of a technique that man per fec -ted for thousands of years and that is now threatened withextinction. Translation: Julian Tobin

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24 GOLF

The wonderful climate here on theCosta de la Luz allows us to playour favourite game all year long,and the quality and services onour local courses are improving allthe time. This was underlined lastNovember when three courses –Costa Ballena, Sherry Golf andArcos Gardens – were chosen tohost the second qualifying stageof the PGA European Tour qualify -ing school. This year Monten -medio will also host this event,making Cádiz an important venuefor future European Tour players.

What’s newWork is to be carried out at Mon -

ten medio before it becomes thefourth venue for the European Tourduring the second stage of pre-qua lification in November. A pro -fes sional team will be hired to addnew tees on seven of the 18 holes,making the course 300 metreslonger and a true test for the pros.

Santiago Zavala recently openedthe Golf Fitting studio on theindustrial area in El Puerto deSanta María. He has all the hi-techequipment you need to analyseyour swing (full swing and puttingstroke). Tel: 650 082 824;www.fittingstudio.com

Arcos Gardens has again beenchosen by the English Golf Unionas the venue for training its elitesquad. Its top players have beenusing the championship course toprepare for their 2008 amateurgolf schedule.

The R&A of St Andrews recentlyannounced some changes in therules. Here’s one which might beworth knowing: Identifying yourball: It is now legal to identify yourball in a hazard. You are allowed tomark, touch, raise the ball toidentify and place it back on itsoriginal place. Before this wasn’tallowed.

Rule 15 applies.

Offers10 per cent discount onbeginners’ course at theCranfield Golf Academy onCosta Ballena

laluz club card holdersqualify for a 15 per centdiscount on the annual feefor becoming a member ofthe European Golf Society ofCádiz (to join, see P67)

Readers’ Queries If you have a golf-relatedquestion send it [email protected] or post to laluz magazine,Apdo de Correos 39, 11150 Vejer de la Frontera.________________________If you want to play golfon a regular basis and notalways on the same golfcourse then you can enjoyspecial offers and discountsby joining the European GolfSociety of Cádiz. For moreinformation call 618 917 260or visit enjoycadizgolf.com.Or go to p.67 to qualify foryour 15% joining discount asa laluz club card holder

......................Pro’s TipMartin Brännström of ArcosGardens Academy tackles theproblem of the slice

There can be many reasons forslicing, but the main one isswinging the club from out toin, that is the line in which theclub is travelling.

Swinging the club on an in toout line will result in a dreamdraw – a dream because it’s thestronger shot in golf and alsoit’s a dream to many. One clearindication of your line is to lookat where your divot is pointing.If it points left (for righthanders) then you have swungout to in and if it points rightthen you have swung in to out.

With the club travelling outto in the ball will begin left oftarget but will then soon startto spin to the right. This is theslice.

So what is the cure? If yourdivots are pointing left and youslice then you need to work onthe line of your swing. Firstcheck that you are aimingcorrectly to address the ball,then experiment with shorteasy swings trying to changethe line. Use the ball to tell youif it is better. The first sign isthe ball starting straight oreven a little to the right of yourtarget. This could take somepractice but it is well worthsorting it out.

Getting in the swing

Tournaments (Being a member of the Spanish Golf Federation gives you the right to play in all competitions and tournaments)

March Golf course Tournament Contact

8th Benalup Golf & Country Club VI Copa de Independencia 956 424 928

15th Novo Sancti Petri Campeonato Social 956 494 350

20th Novo Sancti Petri Trofeo Cerveza Mahou 956 494 350

21st Golf Meliá Sancti Petri Circuito Premium 956 532 096

22nd Montenmedio G&CC Trofeo Mensual 956 438 300

22nd Campano Golf, Chiclana Liga Social 956 494 350

April Golf course Tournament Contact

11th Golf Meliá Sancti Petri II Circuito Meliá 956 532 096

12th Novo Sancti Petri Circuito Chiclana Golf Resort 956 494 350

19th Benalup G&CC VI Torneo Terracottem 956 424 928

19th Sherry Golf Jerez Torneo Rolex 956 088 330

19th Montecastillo G&CC Circuito Provincial Diputación de Cádiz 956 151 200

19th Golf El Puerto de Santa María Torneo Corte Inglés 956 876 541

24th Isla Canela Golf Martine Barthelemi Memorial tournament 959 320 984

in aids of Downs Syndrome children or 959 479 575

26th Golf El Puerto de Santa María Torneo Aces Events 956 876 541

26th Benalup G&CC V Torre de la Morrita 956 424 928

27th Montecastillo G&CC Marques de Arieno Tournament 956 151 200

New columnist Thomas Ijland, of the European Golf Society of Cádiz,takes a look at the local golfing scene

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Sponsored by:

The event will be run in conjunction with our laluz Club card partner, theEuropean Golf Society of Cadiz (EGSC),and will be held at the exclusive ArcosGardens Golf and Country Club, a venuethat laluz is proud to have as partners of our club.

The date will be Friday 30th May 2008.

The competition will be a categorisedindividual stableford and will include allthe usual longest drive and nearest thepin prizes.

In addition to the prize giving ceremonythe price will include:• Welcome coffee, Green fee, Buggy and

Buffet lunch.

Prices: €60 for members of laluz Club and EGSC€75 for non members.

There is also the possibility (subject tointerest) of arranging a return coach to depart from the Chiclana area at an extra cost of €8.

Those interested in the event call 618 917 260 or 655 047 054 or email [email protected]

LALUZ MAGAZINE ARE DELIGHTED TO ANNOUNCE OUR FIRST EVER GOLFING COMPETITION

laluzGolf dayat Arcos Gardens

At the moviesThe Spirit of theBeehive Victor Erice (1973)

What is the best Spanish film evermade? There are a few titles thatcould qualify for this accolade butthere is one which, in manycritics’ views, is not only the finestto emerge from Spain but whichwould not be out of place in theworld-class category.

The Spirit of the Beehive (ElEspíritu de la Colmena) was,incredibly, the debut film of 33-year-old Basque director VictorErice. Don’t forget that at thattime, Spanish film directors hadto use allegory to get theirpolitical messages across. It is setin the Castillian countryside in1940, when Franco had won theCivil War but was still huntingrepublican sympathisers. Eight-year-old Ana and her sister Isabelwatch the film Frankenstein at thelocal cinema. Ana is fascinated bythe story and cannot understandwhy the monster kills the little girlhe meets by the lakeside.

Isabel tells Ana that the monsterisn’t really dead but can besummoned if she closes her eyesand calls out “It’s me, Ana”. Sheis determined to invoke the spiritwhen she finds a Republicanfugitive in an outhouse and bringshim food. For her, he isFrankenstein’s monster and evenwhen he is shot by the CivilGuard, she is certain that spiritsdon’t die and she will meet himagain. Standing alone by herbedroom window, she whispers“It’s me, Ana”.

The film was described byGuardian film critic Derek Malcolmas “the perfect summation ofchildhood imaginings”. But it’salso about the effect of the CivilWar and the long shadow cast byFranco. Ana’s father has beentraumatised by the fighting andher mother writes letters to a loverin France; neither parent can facethe terrible consequences of thewar and its aftermath. Crucially,we never see the whole family inthe same scene together, under -lining the fractured nature of theirrelationships.

The film has a remarkabledreamlike quality, and many of thekey scenes are completely silent.Beautifully shot in muted shadesby Luis Cuadrado (who wasgoing blind as the film was beingmade) and with an amazingperformance by Ana Torrent asher namesake Ana, the filmlingers in the mind for years afterseeing it. Listen also to the cleverscore by Luis de Pablo, whichcontributes but never intrudes.

Erice took a long time to directthis, his first feature. The pain -staking effort is clearly shown on

screen; this is the work of aperfectionist. Not unlike theAmerican director Terence Malick,Erice has only made three featurefilms in 30 years. He is nowworking on another; let’s hope wedon’t have to wait too long for it.DAVID MACGOWAN

Other Erice filmsThe South (El Sur) (1983)The Quince Tree Sun (El Sol delMembrillo) (1992), a remarkabledocumentary about the painterAntonio López García.

Off the bookshelfSouth FromGranadaGerald Brenan

Gerald Brenan is perhaps themost respected of all the English

authors to have lived in andwritten about Spain. His otherbooks about Spain include TheFace Of Spain and The SpanishLabyrinth.

He arrived in the Alpujarrantown of Yegen after the FirstWorld War and in this bookdescribes vividly the customs,rituals and superstitions of theway of life of the people whichnow, over 80 years later, arepretty much lost. The village wasso self contained that only twomarried women in the wholevillage had not been born there.

One chapter tells of a strangecourtship with a girl in Granada,him in the street and her in adarkened room. Whether he isdescribing a meeting with aScotsman who lives in a nearbyvillage, or his visits to the brothelsof Almería (purely for literarypurposes), he always makes forinteresting reading.

At the very end of the book, hereturns to the village 20 yearslater with the Civil War over andbriefly tells how it has changedand the effect the war had on thepeople.

In 2003 South From Granadawas made into a film, albeit onewhich didn’t follow the book tooclosely.

Brenan died in 1987. In hisobituary, The Times describedhim as: “A gifted writer whosebest books arose from his lifelongconcern with Spain and hisunderstanding of its ways.”KEITH BARNES_____________________________Keith Barnes runs the EnglishBookshop in Calle Juan Relinque,Vejer. Tel: 625 870 255

Spirit worldFILM & BOOKS MARCH-APRIL 08 LALUZ 27

28 A TOWN LIKE | ROTA

Imagine a gigantic drop of white paint splashingonto a promontory that points like a frozen arrow across thebay to Cádiz – and there you have Rota. Seen from the air,the town looks just like that: a dazzling patch of white onblue that signals where the Bay of Cádiz straightens outbefore continuing to the estuary of the Gualdalquivir river,and from then on to Portugal.

Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, Catholic Crusaders bent onthe Reconquest, and the United States Sixth Fleet – thanksto the location of the town just across the bay from the cityof Cádiz, all these have passed through Rota in the last3,000 years or so.

But plenty more ethnicities find their way to Rota. Thanksto new road links and the proximity of Jerez airport, the townis easily reached. Or you can moor your boat in the marinaalongside the ever increasing numbers of Britons who havediscovered the delights of the town.

Rota has a lot more to offer than the classic sun, sandand sea – though it has all three in abundance, whichexplains why people from Seville and Jerez have beenholidaying here for many years, as they do up and down theCosta de la Luz. However, a farsighted local council haslooked beyond these obvious assets and ensured that thetown has grown in such a way that its original character hasremained unspoilt.

For a town of its size, Rota has more than its fair share ofmonuments. A good place to start is the Castillo de la Luna,a stone’s throw from the port area. Its origins date back tothe 11th century when the Moors first built a fort on the site.The extant castle is 13th century and played a significantpart in the town’s history as it passed from one aristocraticfamily to another before becoming a convent. The buildinghas been magnificently restored and now houses some ofthe ayuntamiento’s administrative offices. It’s well worthtaking an official tour by getting tickets from the local touristoffice – and it’s free.

There is the usual sprinkling of churches ranging fromRenaissance to late Gothic. Worth a look are the 16thcentury Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la O and the ancientTorre de la Merced which is the only surviving remainder –and a rebuilt one at that – of an earthquake which hit thetown in 1722.

Simply sauntering through the centre with its rows ofwhitewashed facades is, however, the best way to see thetown without getting lost in all those niceties about whodesigned what and when.

The cultural heritage of Rota takes in many events whichkeep alive traditions as much part of its history as anyphysical monuments. Every August the town vibrates to theArranque flamenco festival, which also serves as a good

The perfect baseDavid Alsop takes a tour of an ancient town as well known for itssignature fish dish as its military guests


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Clockwise from far left: The ‘O’ churchis one of Rota’s landmarks; crowdsflock to enjoy the town’s beaches inthe summer (above) or arrive by boatto moor up in the marina (below); thePaseo is a popular place topromenade; the Torre de la Mercedsurvived an earthquake in 1722 whilstthe 13th century Castillo de la Lunanow houses some town counciloffices; whitewashed facades in thecentre of the old town; tasting the starof the show

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excuse to dish up Arranque Roteño, a localvariety of the famous gazpacho cold soup.

Another culinary event is the Urta festival in thesame month. Urta is a kind of bream and duringthis four-day festival the locals vie with each otherto see who can cook up the best version of thisfish. The resulting delicacy is called Urta a laRoteña (you can guess why), and is so wellknown that it appears on menus as far afield as Madrid.

No description of Rota would be completewithout at least a passing reference to the USnaval base, or to be more exact, the naval baseused jointly by both the Spanish and Americannavies. The presence of US naval and air forceunits dates back to the 1950s, when PresidentEisenhower signed a treaty with General Franco’sgovernment which was to have a far-reachingeffect on modern-day Spain.

Since the end of the Second World War Spainhad been more or less isolated from the rest ofthe world, but the need for the US and its allies toreinforce their position in Europe against theburgeoning influence of the Soviet Union broughtthe Western powers knocking on Franco’s door.Spain’s strategic location, straddling the westernapproaches to the Mediterranean as well asproviding an easy stepping stone to the coasts ofAfrica, resulted in an exercise in 20th centuryrealpolitik and important US bases were set uphere, with Rota arguably the most prominent.

Although the Cold War is long since over andthe American presence has been downsized, thebase still looms large in the town’s socio-economic makeup. Large groups of Americansailors on shore leave are still a common sight.

Many things about modern-day Rota would

leave those Phoenicians blinking. But not just theancients would gape open-mouthed; the Spanishnavy personnel who manned the gun battery atthe base of the old fishing pier not so long agowould be astounded to learn that where their gunspointed across the bay to Cádiz, there now standsa splendid modern hotel called the Duque de Nájerawhich has been named among the best hotels inthe world by the German tour operator, TUI.

Similarly the country workers, or mayetos, whoused to potter about their smallholdings adjacentto the Chipiona road would hardly recognise theirland today, covered as it is by a spanking newgolf-cum-beach resort. Costa Ballena has literallybeen built up from scratch in the last few years,and in the summer months has been known tohost over 20,000 people.

But amid all the modernising, there are stillcustoms and traditions aplenty. Like the springfair which fills the local fairground with swirlingflamenco dresses for four days every May as thewomen energetically stamp out the sevillanadances. Or the bustling open air market which isheld every Wednesday morning in an esplanadenext to the bus station. The dazzling goldensands fill with holidaymakers every summer, manyof them spending practically the entire day at thebeach, swimming, sunbathing, reading andplaying. And the streets are abuzz with people atweekends or any evening when there is animportant football match being televised and thebar goers spill out onto the pavements.

Rota proudly proclaims itself to be a balconyoverlooking the sea. With the sherry triangle sonear and a new catamaran service providing fastlinks with Cádiz, the town is in every sense theperfect balcony on the province.

30 A TOWN LIKE | ROTA

Urta a la Roteña isthe town’s most

famous dish and hasa festival devoted to

it in AugustDetailsWhere to eat

El Mesón Alicantino, AvenidaSevilla, has outside tables by thebeach. Tel: 956 816 215

El Faro, Conjunto ResidencialVirgen del Mar. Enjoy Lenguado alFaro (sole) whilst overlooking thebeach.Tel: 664 466 588 or 649 828 207

Bar Emilio, Calle Mina. In apedestrian area near the towncentre. Choose the famous Urta a la Roteña. Tel: 956 811 600

El Timón. Fish and seafood fromthe Bay of Cádiz in the port area.Tel: 617 972 410

Barbecue Blues, Avenida Virgende la Soledad 2. Try the BabybackRibs and Chicken takeaway – thisis cooking for Americans byAmericans from the south, withGeorgia on their minds and in thesauce too. Tel: 670 725 862

Los Argentinos, Avenida Príncipesde España. Lives up to its namewith some great Argentiniancooking. Tel: 956 816 410

A must whilst in Rota, is to taste asherry you may never have heardof – the Tintilla sherry, which isRota’s own brand. Ask for it at El Embarcadero restaurant in theport area or at Los Olivosrestaurant next to the fairground

devouring all the information aboutraptors he could get his hands on. Hehas become an expert – not only interms of bird behaviour but also as aphotographer.

His pictures have appeared in someof the world’s leading naturemagazines including NationalGeographic but Antonio prefers toconfine himself nowadays towandering around the perimeter of hisproperty, checking all is well with hisbeautiful creatures.

At the moment there are around 20birds at the centre. They range fromeagles and kites to a magnificent eagleowl and its even more stunning relative,an arctic owl.

The common perception of thesebirds is that they are silent killers butyou wouldn’t know it, wanderingaround the cages. They squawk andshriek like a flock of parrots, mostlywhen Antonio – their ‘father’ andprovider of food – comes near.

If he is devoted to his birds, thefeeling is clearly mutual. Come showtime, they are happy to perform minormiracles at his behest and it can’t allbe for a scrap of rabbit flesh, can it?

Though the centre is closed duringthe week – when school study groupsspend whole days there – it is open atweekends from midday to 3pm,though times change in high summerso it’s best to consult the website orcall before visiting.

The time to turn up is 1pm (or just

Águilas delMundo Algar

Cádiz province is renowned for its birdsof prey, though the closest most of usget to a raptor is a fleeting glimpse outof the car window as we race by.

Things are a lot more ‘hands on’,however, at the newly-opened Águilasdel Mundo centre near Algar, on theedge of the Sierra de Grazalema.

This is a conservancy and breedingcentre for eagles, hawks and owls. Andone visit is enough to convince eventhe most ardent nature hater of thebeauty and intelligence of thesecreatures.

The centre is a private venture,owned and run by Antonio Atienza, hiswife Carmen and a friend. It opened tothe public late last year, though thefamily have owned the property forsome years, establishing breedingprogrammes, nurturing chicks andkeeping the livelier adult birds undercontrol.

Birds of prey have been Antonio’spassion since he was a four-year-old,following the hunting trail with hisfather. Gradually his focus shifted fromthe tracks on the ground to what wasgoing on in the air all around him.

“My eyes were drawn to the sky,” hesays. And a lifelong love affair wasborn. Since then Antonio has been

Antonio Atienzaspreading the wordwith schoolchildren(top) while a youngvisitor gets somehands on experience(inset). Above: AHarris hawk

before) when Antonio begins hisdemonstration. I saw a kite, two eaglesand an eagle owl performing mind-boggling aerobatics, swooping on luresat amazing speed and (once) taking offfor a flight to the next door finca, where the raptor in question passed a fewrelaxed minutes sitting on a hammockbefore being retrieved.

Antonio’s ‘show’ is packed full ofinformation about the birds, their habitsand their care. It’s conducted in Spanish,but even if you can’t follow what’sbeing said, the display is worth seeing.

Enthusiasm shines through in anylanguage and it’s inspiring to meet aman so dedicated to conserving thesewonderful birds. Their future at thecentre seems assured too: Antonio’sfour year old daughter, Carmen,spends all her spare time with thechicks and, says her dad, many ofthem think of her as their ‘mother’.TONY JEFFERIES

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––Águilas del Mundo (12pm-3pm,Sat & Sun. Tel: 856 023 019;aguilasdelmundo.com) is half akilometre outside Algar on theSan Jose del Valle road. Signslead you 100 metres down atrack to the finca, where thereis ample parking. Entry fee(includes demonstration) is €5(adults) & €3,50 (children). Thecentre has a bar which servesdrinks and basic snacks

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32 DAY TRIPPER

A hostage is dragged down the streetbehind a galloping horse and a housebursts into flames, its screamingoccupants running out on fire. Ouralarm is allayed when we are told thatwhat took place involves professionalstuntmen and a few moments later twobomberos extinguish the flames. It’scomforting to discover that a 21stcentury fire engine was waiting in anearby street to cover any realemergencies.

At the close of the day there is amoving tribute to the villagers who losttheir lives; as names are read out, eachvillager stands up waving hishandkerchief in defiance andremembrance.

Between the battle enactmentsthere are displays of flamenco andsword fighting. You can also samplelocally-made tapas from the numerousbars, watch local artisans at work -potters, blacksmiths, guitar makers –and of course you can taste thefamous olive oil from the area.

There is a spectacular climax to theevening as all eyes are turned towardsthe beautiful clock tower of La IglesiaSanta Ana. Spotlights shine upondancers who abseil and dance downthe front of the tower high above thecrowds, recreating another scene fromMay 1810: a fight to the death in thechurch tower. CAROLINE MITCHELL

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––This year, the re-enactmenttakes place on May 2nd, 3rdand 4th. For furtherinformation ring theAlgodonales Town Hall on 956137 003. Algodonales isbetween Olvera and Villamartín

Battle re-enactment Algodonales

I used to think historical re-enactmentswere for people with far too much timeon their hands and a penchant forfancy dress. That was before I visitedthe town of Algodonales to watch there-creation of May 2nd, 1810, a tributeto a short period in the NapoleonicWars when the algodoleñoscourageously resisted the invadingFrench Army for several days, withhundreds losing their lives and homesin the process.

The entire town of 6,500 peopleparticipates in the four-day event andmany will have rehearsed crowd andfight scenes for the previous six months.

The town square – Plaza de laConstitución – is closed to traffic and,with straw and sand strewn on thestreet, becomes a 19th century pueblowith stalls, workshops and tavernas.

Villagers dress in period costumes –long skirts, aprons and off-the-shouldertops for women and girls andknickerbockers and waistcoats for menand boys.

The armies (Spanish, French andeven British) look very authenticdressed in their uniforms and armedwith muskets and swords. They marchin and out of the town at the beginningand end of the day, pipers piping,drummers drumming and standardswaving. During the staged battlesshots ring out and villagers armed withbatons fight the soldiers.

Don’t stand too near the cannons;as my eight-year-old daughter observed,it’s like being in the middle of a realbattle.

The culmination of the battlehappens when villagers gallop into thesquare on horseback carrying flamingtorches shouting ‘¡Viva Algodonales!’.

Authentic battlescenes inAlgodonales markthe town’s heroicresistance toNapoleonic troops.Above right: pilgrimscross theGuadalquivir onhorseback

MARCH-APRIL 08 LALUZ 33MARCH-APRIL 08 LALUZ 33

Jerez Feria and El RocíopilgrimageTwo of Andalucía’s most celebratedcultural events take place at the end ofApril and in the first part of May. Bothinvolve that essential combination ofsherry, music, colourful costume – andhorses.

April is the start of the feria season,and the Feria del Caballo in Jerez is theone that outdoes them all, withfabulous displays of horsemanship andcarriages, brilliant costumes, dancingand plenty of food and drink. Thehighlight, the Paseo de Caballos, takesplace every day of the fair (April 27th-May 4th), whilst Wednesday April 30this the Dia de las Mujeres when everywoman in Jerez (and plenty fromelsewhere too) dons sevillana costumeto saunter through the ParqueGonzález Hontoria.

There’s barely time to hang up yourflamenco dress before the next bigevent – the famous pilgrims’ crossingof the Guadalquivir river on the El Rocíotrail (see picture), when up to a millionpeople make their way through theCoto de Doñana national park tohonour an image of the Virgin. Thecrossing at Sanlúcar de Barramedabetween May 7th and 14th is one ofthe most exciting and representativemoments of the spring pilgrimage, withgaily decorated caravans and cartsbeing ferried across the river.

Both are much photographedoccasions, and regular laluzphotographer Kirsten Scully is offeringaspiring photographers a real insider’sview of these events that go to theheart of Andalucía. Her workshopstretches across 10 days and twocontinents, and participants will gainexclusive behind-the-scenes privilegeswith expert sessions from Kirsten andfellow tutor Thatcher Cook. Theworkshop later moves to Morocco toexplore the roots of Andalucía’sMoorish influences. For details of thephotography workshop from May 2nd-11th e-mail [email protected]

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Located next to one of the Domecq bodegas and with viewsacross to the Cathedral, the Alcazar and Gonzalez Byassbodegas, Casa Flores is right in the heart of “old Jerez”

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Three bedroom apartment in a refurbishedpalace. Plenty of interesting features such ashigh beamed ceilings and original tiles on thefloor. Large city garden.

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UPDATE THIS PART

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Montecastillo is without doubt one of Andalucia’s hiddengems. It manages to combine a championship Jack NicklausGolf course, 5 star luxury hotel, health spa, tennis club,professional football training ground, excellent club houseand bar all within 10 minutes from the centre of the magicalcity of Jerez.

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Robert Friedlander finds inspiration in the manycultural strands of a city at ease with its past glories

36 WEEKENDER | CÓRDOBA

One word is synonymous withCórdoba: Mezquita. Everyone who visitsthis great city heads for the mosquewith a cathedral at its heart. Everyonehas heard or read of the forest of doublearches which diffuse light throughout theMezquita in a magical way and transportyou to the Moorish city of a thousandyears ago. And everyone knows that themagnifi cence of this monument is far, fargreater than any description can convey.

In spiritual terms, this is Spain’sfinest monument to Moorish rule.Granada’s Alhambra is moregrandiose, its detail more intricate andits scale more breathtaking; Seville’sGiralda tower and the palace in itsshadow are further proof of the geniusof Moorish draftsmen and the deeppockets of their rulers. But Córdobaand its Mezquita will take you closer tothe soul of the Arab kingdom.

Even the incongruous cathedral,dumped in the centre of the mosqueafter the Christian Reconquest, can’tdetract from its simple beauty andarchitectural perfection.

But Córdoba has much more to offerthan one great monument. Just a fewyards from the Mezquita’s walls you canstand overlooking the Guadalquivir riverwith a Roman bridge stretching in frontof you and a triumphal arch from thedays of the Reconquista.

And to the west lies the Judería –one of the largest, most completeJewish districts in Spain. Here,everything seems half hidden, which isthe essence of the city. Scratch thesurface, look a little deeper and you’llbe rewarded.

The people of Córdoba are morereserved than their counterparts inSeville or Granada. They considerthemselves Cordobeses rather thanAndalusian and as if to underline thatdifference, they rejoice in the onlyextreme left wing local authority in the country.

“We have a saying here,” a barowner told me: “Córdoba is one of thethree Cs of world communism withCuba and Corea.” It might not workwith English spellings, but there’s nodoubt the system works for this city –the United Left was again returned topower at the last election and RosaAguilar has been nominated for 2008’sworld mayor of the year award.

They may be reserved and politicallyat odds with most of the world, butthey are charming and welcoming. Thisis another Cordobes tradition – onewhich you can trace back a millenniumwhen Córdoba was the most culturedplace on the planet.

Jewish and Muslim philosophers,scientists and poets collaborated

happily in a city of half a million souls.That cross-culture tradition lives on,underlined by the presence of one ofSpain’s few synagogues and a Muslimuniversity.

Córdoba’s Moorish legacy goes waybeyond the Mezquita. Between theJudería and the river lies the Alcázar, orcastle, more renowned for its gardensthan its walls and chambers.

Fountains and flower beds, patiosshaded by canopies of waxy-leafedorange trees and stunning mosaic floorsare easy on the eye and good for thesoul.

The Moorish love of greenery andwater has found a modern echo in thepatios of Córdoba. Walk along anystreet in the city centre and throughwrought iron gates you can glimpsethose interior courtyards; cool, shadyhavens where the locals pass thehottest days of high summer in comfort.

The Posada del Potro, a 16thcentury inn, sits on one side of theplaza which bears its name and heremulticoloured flowers dominate: gerani -ums, pelargoniums, nasturtiums andevery other kind of ‘ium’ tumble frompots or window boxes and wrap them -selves around the original woodenbeams.

Across the plaza is the city’s artgallery and another devoted to the

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Chirographiverecunde agnascorsuis.

Adfabilisagricolae imputatapparatus bellis.Pompeii frugalitermiscere fiducias,

Middle East meetsWest in theMezquita; Oppositepage: view of thecity from across theGuadalquivir river

frankly, fruity artist Julio Romero deTorres. Beloved of all Cordobeses, hissubject matter was almost exclusivelywomen, largely bare breasted andfrequently adorned with props whichenabled him to give his canvases titlessuch as Oranges and Lemons.

On a more earthy note, Plaza de laCorredera is a couple of minutes’ walkaway. This was where medieval andRenaissance Córdoba went to market,drank, celebrated and even gatheredto watch autos da fé and executionsoverseen by the Inquisition.

There’s no sign of the bonfires butthe bars do a roaring trade, their chairsand tables sprawled across thehandsome, colonnaded square all dayand late into the night.

Just around the corner, on the hillwhich leads to Plaza Tendillas, thebeating heart of the modern city, liesome colonnades which recall a farolder past. This is the Templo Romano,the massive columns of which havebeen partly reconstructed, and whichseem more poignant in their semi-ruined state than they might havedone, had the building remained intact.

Córdoba’s most poignant link withthe past lies outside the city. The ruinsof Medina Azahara represent theflowering of Abd ar-Rahman III’s ‘city inthe country’. It lasted less than a

century, but at its high point, 1,000years ago, visitors were presented witha spectacle they struggled to describe.

Those who could wrote of the five-mile road from Córdoba to the summerpalace being lined with carpet, andbeautiful women from the caliph’s vastentourage strewing visitors with rosepetals along its whole length.

Fountains trickled throughout thecity, and descriptions of sheets ofwater flowing down interior walls andspectacular lakes and pools arecommonplace.

Uncovering the ruins of this 220-acre site is a painstaking process, andonly 10 per cent of the work has beencompleted. Even so, it shows the scaleof the project.

A sense of lost grandeur is apparentas you wander through the ruins. Here,too, some reconstruction has beenachieved, but the seemingly endlesschunks of carved masonry, carefullylaid out like pieces of a gigantic jigsaw,only serve to underline the size of thetask facing the few full time architectsworking here.

Perhaps the Mezquita, back in thecity, is a more fitting reminder ofCórdoba ‘s past: a rich blend ofcultures which, when stirred, gives offan aroma every bit as inviting as thefinest Arabic coffee.


Most of the year, the patios of Córdobaremain a half-hidden curiosity. Visit the city inearly May, however, and you’ll notice ‘patio’signs in the streets and alleyways of the old city.This is your invitation to see what, for 50 weeksof the year, is closed to the outside world.The blooms are at their best at this time of year– the first strong sun has brought them into fullflower and they result in a city full of concealedcolour.

Many are opened up for the pleasure of thepassing public; many more are entered in theannual competition – the Concurso de PatiosCordobeses. A map of patios open to visitors isavailable from the tourist office (Calle deTorrijos, 10 (opposite western side of Mezquita);Tel: 957 471 235). Tourism office websitesinclude turismodecordoba.org andturiscordoba.es.

The city’s hotels are always full at this time andit’s almost impossible to find a room withoutbooking ahead if you’re there for the start of theevent, which coincides with the Cruzes de Mayocelebration.

Brief splash of colour

38 WEEKENDER | CÓRDOBA

Where to stayHotel AC CórdobaAvenida de la Libertad, 24; Tel: 957 768 380; ac-hoteles.comDoubles from €152 including taxes and breakfast

NH Amistad CórdobaPlaza de Maimónides, 3; Tel: 957 420 335; nh-hotels.comDoubles from €150

Hotel MarisaCalle Cardenal Herrero, 6;Tel: 957 473 142; hotelmarisacordoba.comA good budget option at €72 per nightfor a double

Hotel ConquistadorMagistral González Francés, 15; Tel: 957 481 102,hotelconquistadorcordoba.comDouble bedroom for €129.50 including taxes

Where to eatMuseoCalle Enrique Romero de Torres, 3; Tel: 957 480 877; South of Plaza del Potro

La BocaPaseo de la Rivera, 24; Tel: 695 961 862; restaurantelaboca.com

AmalteaRonda Isasa, 10; Tel: 957 491 968

Restaurante ChocoCalle Compositor Serrano Lucena, 14; Tel: 957 264 863;[email protected] busy so call or e-mail beforehand

Casa Pepe de la JuderíaCalle Romero, 1;Tel: 957 200 744; Booking advisable

El ChurrascoCalle Romero, 16; Tel: 957 290819

Don’t missThe MezquitaThe Moors’ greatest lasting monument inSpain. €8, concessions at €4

AlcázarThe castle and gardens complex along side theGuadalquivir rival Granada’s Alhambra. €3,free on Fridays

HammamThe Arab Baths (Calle Corregidor Luis de laCerda, 51; Tel: 957 48 47 46) have cleverlyrecreated the Córdoba of a thou sand yearsago. Booking advisable

JuderíaTake a walk round the Jewish quarter with itsancient synagogue, winding, streets, hole inthe wall bars and half-hidden patios

Horse-drawn carriageThe best way to see this beautiful city. Ridesbegin on Calle Torrijos and cost €40 for anhour

Medina AzaharaA few kilometres west of the city lies thegigantic, sprawling complex of the 10thcentury Caliphate’s summer palace. Free toEU citizens. A taxi will cost €30 or so and thedriver will give you an hour to view the site

Clockwise from left: TheHammam baths; theRoman bridge across theGuadalquivir; the citywalls enclosing thegardens of the Alcázar(pictured opposite)

Details

On the 12th of September Carteya Motorsstarted their venture as a BMW official dealersand offered BMW and Mini service in the areathat surrounds Gibraltar. Carteya Motor belongsto the CATSA group. Since 1946 they havecentered their efforts on quality service forcustomers as a guarantee for the future.

Carteya Motor has a 5,600m2 installationthat provides all the technical innovations for

sales and repairs of BMW’s. Their qualified andmotivated team offer good customer service,and are ex pe rienced BMW professionals.

If you need a new car, or are looking for aquality used car with warranty we are at yourdisposal.

You can visit us on the Ctra. Cádiz-Málaga Km. 608,7 Urb. Los Pinos 11205 Algeciras. Tlf. 956.651.700 Fax.956.651.696

Most of us have a thing for antiques and bric-a-brac. We love to browse through car boot sales or local fairs and potterabout in antique or second hand shops searching for hidden treasures– or quite simply, a bargain.

We even watch other people doing it on television. The AntiquesRoad Show is now into its 30th season with spin-offs in America,Canada, Australia, Sweden and Holland. But what about Spain, andAndalucía in particular?

Former Sotheby’s expert Malcolm Davidson has set up his ownbusiness buying and selling antiques in Vejer. He told me that becausepeople here were relatively poor until quite recently, there is a differentkind of market. “Here in Andalucía, the locals seem to be going througha period when they prefer to buy shiny new rather than something agedor second hand – not unlike the British in the Sixties and Seventies.”

There are also fewer antiques available in Spain because there wasless demand for furniture and only a small manufacturing industrycompared to Britain. Most of the great collections seemed to belong tograndees or the Church, and fewer country houses have been sold off.“Antique dealers of today import a great deal from northern Europe andthe UK because there is much more available,” Malcolm says.

One piece of furniture truly invented by the Spanish was a cabinetcalled a vargueño. It’s a writing desk and filing cabinet combined andsits on a stand; this upper part has drawers and often a central niche,with a hinged writing surface that drops forward. These cabinets wereoften richly carved, painted, gilded and inlaid with ivory in a Moorishmanner and designed to be portable, with carrying handles, so theycould travel with their owners on a mule, cart or carriage.

“For top quality Spanish antiques you must go to Madrid but youcan also try the antique shops and rastro markets of Jerez, Sanlúcarand Seville. You never know, you might be lucky.” says Malcolm.

Jerez Sunday Morning Market is located under the walls of theAlcázar in a pretty plaza bordered by trees and blessed withunderground parking. It is a jolly affair with plenty of car-boot bargainsand a sprinkling of stalls offering china, glass, furniture and pictures.Sellers normally require a licence but if a pitch is unoccupied after10am, I’m told that anyone can set up an unofficial stall and attempt tosell their bric-a-brac.

Cádiz Sunday Morning Market has seriously down-sized,possibly temporarily whilst work continues on renovating the market.Now located on the Avenue Duque de Nájera opposite the ParqueGenovés near the Parador Hotel, it only accommodates a few licensedstalls. Park by the sea wall.

Sanlúcar de Barrameda Saturday Morning Antique Marketis on a pedestrianised street just off the charming Plaza del Cabildo.There are about a dozen antique stalls with a variety of lamps, furniture,knobs and knockers and the rest, complemented by three nearbyantique shops. Arte Antigüedades on Calle Ramón y Cajal is the mostinteresting of these and has been in José Ángel Quirós’ family for 60years. To make the day worthwhile you can visit the nearby PedroRomero Bodega to sample the local manzanilla (Calle Trasbolsa; Tel:956 360 266). Then eat at one of the riverside restaurants famous forsea food, oysters and freshwater shrimps.

Seville Thursday Morning Market offers the widest selection ofgoods and is perhaps the most professional. Held in the Calle Feria,arrive promptly as sellers have gone by 2pm and be sure to bargain.From classic oil paintings to ceramics, furniture, watches and commonor garden junk, you could happen upon a real treasure. There are

40 HOMES & INTERIORS

On the trail ofhidden treasureAngela Clarence talks to a former Sotheby’sexpert and offers a guide to the best in bootsales, bric-a-brac and valuable antiques

antique shops all over the city but do try to visit the fascinating Casa dePilatos on the Plaza Pilatos, to see beautiful examples of Spanishantiques spanning the centuries, open all day every day except whenthe Royal Family comes to stay. Admission €5; Tel: 954 225 298.alternatively, contrast the morning with an afternoon trip to IKEA.

Castellar de la Frontera Car Boot, Saturdays, Sundays andFiestas. Set in the grounds of a rural holiday complex, this minor carboot venue is nothing short of delightful. Occasional sellers offer thecontents of car boots, and regulars sell home-made bread, organiccoffee, clothes and hippy jewellery etc. It costs €10 per square metrefor a pitch and whether buying or selling it promises to be a fabulousday. The scenery in the Alcornacales National Park is spectacular; thesparkling mountain air refreshing, and the nearby castle a tourist treat.Wonder at the views, particularly of the Rock of Gibraltar; wanderthrough the chocolate-box cobbled streets of the mini-pueblo withinthe walls; buy a painting from the resident artist; drink sherry andsample tapas in the Flamenco Bar; and eat at the Hotel El Alcazar orone of the popular outlying ventas.

Vejer Antiques If you have superfluous family heirlooms to offload, orwant to buy good quality furniture, Malcolm Davidson deals in china,glass, paintings and furniture to the trade, but interested individuals canvisit his stockroom by appointment. Malcolm also offers an antiquerestoration service and carries out valuations. See vejerantiques.com;Tel: 956 450 125 or 616 963 646.

Other Car BootsChiclana – last Sunday of the month near the Popeye Restaurant, LaBarrosa. Take the Carretera de la Barrosa, after the Cepsa petrol

station turn left on the Venta Nueva Alegria, keep going straight till youget to the Sede Urbanizacion Cerro Molino on the left hand side. Price€3-€5. Good mix of Spanish, British and Germans.

Ayamonte – every second Sunday in the month at Ayamonte tennisclub on the N125 towards Isla Cristina. Clothes, English books andbric-a-brac, plus bacon butties and hot British sausages. Pre-bookingessential. Contact 959 322 574 or 667 695 754; price €7 per boot.Entry fee goes to charity. No professional traders.

Fuengirola – Saturdays, monster sale held in the Fair Ground.

Malcolm Davidson’s top tipsVeneered, marquetry or inlaidpieces can deteriorate rapidlydue to the extreme variations intemperature and humidity. Airconditioning helps, as doesfrequent use of beeswax polish

Likewise leather bound books,but try to keep them moist with

leather treatment solution or aparaffin based polish

Softwood furniture, such aspine or fruit wood, is liable toattack from woodworm, but thiscan be treated if caught earlyenough. These beasties tend toappear in May

Be sure to polish mahogany,oak and teak items regularlywith high quality beeswaxbased polish

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Weekend markets at Sanlúcar (top) and Jerez (far left) are good hunting groundsfor a bargain, as are car boot sales like the one in picturesque Castellar (right).Sanlúcar also has some interesting antique shops (left and far right)


The hills around the farming town ofAracena in Huelva province are situatedin a genuinely untouched corner ofsouthern Spain. Approximately 100kmsnorth-west of Seville, they are one ofthe best preserved mountain areas inAndalucía, and well off the tourist circuit.

Some of the easier walking routescan be found around Aracena, Linaresde la Sierra and Almonaster la Real.Almo nas ter was originally a bronze-agesettle ment and the town today still hasa wonder fully preserved 10th centurymezquita (mosque) – an absolute mustto visit.

Armed with a good map of the areaaround the village of Linares, 20kmsouth-west of Aracena, you can pick uppart of the old drovers’ road called LasDeshadillas, that runs all the way toMérida in Extremadura.

The surrounding hills and gentlevalleys contain some of the mostbeautiful Mediterranean examples ofsweet chestnut forest and are sprinkledwith cork and holm oak. Many of thechestnuts are harvested by hand but thebulk of the arboreal fruits make upsome of the diet for the free-range blackpigs, or patas negras, that roam thearea. The Jabugo ham is certainly theregion’s most famous culinary delicacyand the locals romantically tell you thatwhen you cut into the leg you can see

the particles of acorns. Forest manage -ment allows a rich and charac teristicdehesa, or woodland pasture.

The quiet country lanes have quaint,dry stone walls and connect some of themore isolated rural towns and villages,where you’ll come across friendly localsand of course the chance to take awelcome drink and some tasty tapas.

Early mornings are best to watch wildboar and also see the local pigs rootingfor acorns. Red and the smaller roe deercan often be seen through the thickforests and with good luck, the scarcerIberian lynx, gennet and mongoose canalso be seen with patience. Butterfliesare normally present but recent aerialspraying of the forests with insecticideshas taken a toll on birds and insects.

The disappearance of valuable foodsources for other animals – includingbreeding forest birds – creates a silentforest. It has now been agreed by manyscientists that defoliation of some typesof forest allows the vegetation torespond to increased light penetrationand of course is a natural phenomenon.Allowing some deforestation would be acompromise rather than annualfumigation of huge areas.

There are quite a few species of birdsto be seen with griffon vultures and therarer black vultures often gliding overupper ground or climbing ever higher on

a thermal in the warm valleys, lookingout for dead animals.

There really are some stunning walksin the area, buzzing with lots of naturalhistory and interspersed with a variety ofinteresting social, historical and culturalthemes. Rather than attempt to explainwhere the walks are, I would recommendthat you buy some of the Spanish militarytopographic survey maps available fromStanford’s, the map specialists in London.You can also buy these maps on-line atstanfords.co.uk. The 1:50,000 seriescovers the whole of Spain and they areexcellent walking maps with each sheetcovering 18x27km (or 16x11 miles).

Go armed with these maps and anexcellent walking book – one I wouldrecommend is Walking in Andalucía byGuy Hunter-Watts, published bySantana Books. There are also walkingmaps of the area available from thelocal tourist office in Aracena or otherlarger towns and cities in Andalucía, aswell as tourist information stands atSeville and Jerez de la Frontera airports.

_________________________________Stephen Daly runs Andalucían Guides,the birding and wildlife company.Stephen is based on the Straits ofGibraltar and offers day tours withinCádiz Province. andalucianguides.com;Tel: 956 432 316/ 647 713 641

Stephen Daly takes a trip to Aracenawhere the famous black pigs roam freeto produce the finest cured meats

Great hams from little acorns

42 WILD SIDE WALK

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This rather untidy shrub from CentralAmerica can reach a height of around threemetres and the same width when left unchecked.It’s made up of long, slender arching branchesspringing densely from the base. It is in thesame, huge family as the potato, having similarflowers and small, berry-like fruit. Night-scented Jessamine has clusters of pale greenflowers which appear in late summer andautumn. The green berries that follow turn aglossy white in winter. Grow these in full sun inwell-drained but well-watered soil with theoccasional feed, and propagate from soft tipcuttings in spring.

Helianthemum means flower of sunshinewhich is appropriate, as its flowers open onlyin full sunshine. These evergreen Mediterra neandwarf shrubs thrive in rocky, shallow soil andhave grey-green to silver leaves and a profusedisplay of flowers ranging from yellow or creamto pink or bright orange in spring and autumn.Planted when small, its fibrous roots are oftenused to control erosion. After the first display,cut it back for the summer, then do not water itat all until the rains of autumn when the RockRose will return to its former glory. Propagationis from seeds or cuttings in autumn.

Another aptly-named plant, this perennialfrom tropical India is often found in patiosand shady corners; its huge, emerald-greenleaves provide an instant tropical feel. Itneeds to be protected from the wind andenjoys rich, moist, permeable soil, but doeswell in sun or semi-shade. After several yearsit forms an impressive trunk and suckers areproduced which can be broken off andreplanted elsewhere. Although Elephant's Earflowers insignificantly, the tuber roots areedible, prepared like yams, so when yoursgets very big you can eat it!

Elephant's Ear Alocasia macrorrhiza

Rock Rose Helianthemu

Dama de Noche Cestrum nocturnum

Pick of the bunch

gardening

It is hard to go far in Spain withoutpassing an avenida of palm trees, andrare to visit a garden without at leastone or two.

Palms are unique trees which started toappear after the late Jurassic period – afterferns and cycads – and have been cultivatedby humans for more than 6,000 years.Geographically diverse, their hardiness anduse as architectural plants have ensured theirworld-wide success.

While there are many palm species plantedcommercially for oils, dates and, of course,coconuts, the most frequently seen species inthis area are grown for their predictable natureand shape. Most by nature tend to be very tall,although the only indigenous palm (chamaeropshumilis) or palmito is clump-forming and onlyvery slowly reaches a height of 3-4 metres.

When used in avenues or entrances, themost popular choice is the majestic phoenixcanariensis, native to the sub-tropics and the

Canary Islands. Some splendid examples canbe seen in Vejer.

The long fronds have long, stiff spikes atthe base and form a dense crown, from whichsprout vivid orange or yellow inedible ‘dates’after nectar-rich white flowers which oftenattract swarms of bees. With regular hardpruning, this tree will grow up to 15 metres talland gives mottled shade of nearly 10 metres.Some specimens have sturdy, fat trunks up toa metre wide, and long, droopy fronds 3.5metres long, and needs plenty of room toshow off their dramatic symmetrical shape.

Another commonly seen palm is theCalifornian Fan Palm, or Washingtonia filifera,which often has a shaven trunk up to 18metres tall and just a cluster of fan-shapedleaves with a span of only 4.5 metres or so atthe crown. It is somewhat faster growing thanthe phoenix, and is not as ‘dirty’ (it doesn’tshed so many berries or dead branches). The large leaves have many long, tapering

segments and the stalks are viciouslyserrated. When they eventually reach anunprunable height the dead fronds hangdown in a skirt round the trunk, providingnesting space for birds and rats, andconsequently a hunting ground for snakes.Many large palm trees are ringed with a collarof aluminium to stop terrestrial animals makingtheir nests in the crown.

There is currently a plague of red palmweevil affecting palms in Spain, believed tocome from specimens imported from Egypt,so check where your young palm comes from.Unlike trees, the best time to transplant palmsis in full summer, when their growth is slowest.They can be pruned throughout the year. Plantpotted palms in autumn, being careful not togive them too much water or their roots willrot. Leave at least eight metres betweenplants, and don’t plant closer than four metresfrom a house or a wall – they can grow toundesirable proportions.

44 GARDENING

High and mighty


MarchThis month brings the spring equinox,when the countryside buds, shootsand blossoms around us. In thegarden, it’s a good time to makelawns, or to sprinkle a little 15:15:15fertilizer onto established lawns forspring growth. They will need cuttingregularly from now on. Try takingsoftwood cuttings from shrubs andfruit-trees, they take easily now. Thisis the last month for pruning pinetrees and cutting cypress hedgessuccessfully; cut later they keep tightlater into summer. In the huertoprepare to plant summer veg, egcarrot, beetroot, lettuce, earlytomatoes, aubergines and frenchbeans.

AprilAs spring gets under way, take timeout to see what unwanted newgrowth you have in your garden. Lookout for bugs on new growing tips andleaves, and try to check the weedgrowth before it gets out of hand.Revise any irrigation system youhave, and replace broken parts sothat it is ready to use when necessary.Plant spring bulbs such as gladioliand begonias for summer displays,Sow forget-me-not for flowers nextspring. Continue planting veg in yourhuerto as for March but with theaddition of melons, courgettes andpumpkins; keep everything well-watered and weed-free.

Readers are invited to share their gardening and design problems or ideas by sending themto [email protected] or Apdo de Correos 39, 11150 Vejer de la Frontera, Cádiz

this season’s top tips

Stewart Pitcher trained inagriculture and was a farmmanager by profession beforestarting up his gardeningbusiness here several yearsago. He lives near Vejer

In a mature garden or overgrownindigenous forest, nature uses everyspace to its advantage. The shelteredcanopy of a tree offers differentconditions for growth, encouraging big,green leaves in the ground cover and thetendency in other plants to use the tree asa giant climbing-frame.

Climbers have always been popular, openingup a myriad of possibilities for the creativegardener. Often used as a means to cover afence or wall, they immediately soften thestructure and provide contrasting, everchanging colour. Some climbers havestrongly arching canes or long, thin tendrilsthat quickly reach great height, while othertrailing types are more suited to steep banksto prevent soil erosion and provide weed-free ground cover. Although a creeper isgenerally defined as a plant that hugs theground, there are many exceptions -honeysuckle, morning glory, ivy andnasturtiums are equally happy on theground or straggling a wall, tree or fence.

Climbers are as varied in their growthhabits as any other tree or shrub, so care isneeded when selecting the right plant. Theyoften occupy prime position in the garden,so there is no room for non-runners. Be sureto choose healthy, suitable plants. To covera bare wall without any support, ivys andparthenocissus (often seen covering thefaçades of large houses) have sucker rootswhich push themselves into moisture-retentive cracks and cling onto the wall.

Tendril climbers such as ipomeas

(morning glory), jasmines and the passionflower wind themselves around fences,pylons and dead trees and add colour andinterest. They can even be planted togetherwith other climbers, for example whiteipomea with the red trumpet vine, orjasmine with bougainvillea, their coloursand growth patterns complementing each other.

Bougainvilleas, bignonias, capehoneysuckle, trumpet vines and climbingroses amongst others are known as lax-stemmed climbers, capable of achieving alarge size but needing support to developfully. Many have spikes or reverse-angledbranches which hook onto any nearbysupport, and their unruly development inthe early years can quickly cover a pergola,porch or archway where their flowers can be admired.

Bougainvillea, bignonia and wisteria havetwisting stems that thicken with age tobecoming almost self-supporting. Inmaturity, these plants can totally engulftheir original support, and grow tree-likebranches which can be trainedspectacularly.

When planting, allow a good distancebetween trunk-forming plants (at least twometres), and avoid planting near windows.Leave at least 30cm between the wall andthe trunk for growth, and don’t forget thebase of a wall is often the driest and leastfertile area of the garden.

Many climbers will last a lifetime, so goodpreparation and choice of plant will rewardyou over many years.

GRAND DESIGN: climbers and trailers

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46 PROFILE

Clockwise from top: Florence Cattin working on one of

her wastewater garden projects; inAustralia this system is used by

between four and 10 people a day;a courtyard garden in Indonesia; a

new garden in Lumbalumba inSumatra and then a year later

when the plants are fully grown


Florence Cattin’s apartment inVejer boasts a lush view of La Janda,once one of southern Europe’s greatestfreshwater lagoons. It’s a particularlyappropriate outlook because Florencespends her professional life creatingwetlands. But hers are no ordinarywetlands; in fact they’re created fromsewage water.

“People know I do gardens, andthey know it’s something to do withsewage – but they’re not really sureexactly what,” she says.

The name of her company, Waste -water Gardens España, describes verywell what Florence does. She designsand sets up natural wetland systems forpurifying sewage water, which at thesame time provide a lush area of vege -ta tion and flowers. These are wetlandswhich are useful but beautiful at thesame time. And no, they don’t smell.

“I was involved with artists for manyyears,” says Florence, “so theaesthetics are important to me. We’recreating something that’s visuallybeautiful but that’s also productive. Inour gardens you can grow fruit trees,medicinal plants, even cut flowers.”

Florence has worked all over theworld creating waste water gardens forhotels, offices and homes in Mexico,Indonesia, Australia, Algeria andPortugal. Closer to home, she has setup systems on the Costa del Sol and isnow involved with a project at a hotelbeing built outside Vejer.

“When we set up the gardens,something amazing happens. Peopleno longer look at the sewage theyproduce and say ‘that’s horrible, let’sget rid of it’. Suddenly, they start to say‘this is something useful that helps usto grow things and create beauty’.

“Take the Royal Gardens in Bali, forinstance. It looks just like a park –people don’t realise it’s a sewagesystem. On the Costa del Sol, water isbecoming a real issue. One client inBenahavis wanted to recreate a greenarea because the local river had beendiverted. So we set up a waste watersystem and within four months, thebutterflies and owls had come back.”

So how does a waste water gardenactually work? The sewage goes into a

septic tank or similar system where thesolid matter is separated. The sewagewater is then filtered through a graveltreatment area; this is planted up andthe nutrients from the water feed theplants to create a fertile area of greenvegetation. Excess water – at thisstage, purified – is channelled off into afurther drainage network.

For those interested in specifics, thequantity of leftover solid matter is verysmall; Florence tells me that one systemused by four full-time and three part-time residents produced less than awheelbarrow of solids waste after 14months of use.

“People can’t understand that natureactually works better than machines,”she says. “The biochemical cyclescreated by just a few components –gravel, water, nutrients and plants – are much more complex than anythingwe could create.”

The environmental benefits of thesesystems are clear: They create greenzones, there are no harmful productsor pollution and they help saveprecious fresh water resources. Butthere are economic gains to be had aswell. They are cheaper to install in mostplaces, they last for decades andrequire only minimal maintenance. Evenso, Florence acknowledges that theyare not suitable for every situation –holiday homes, for example.

For small community projects,however, they come into their own.Wastewater Gardens recently set up apioneering project in Algeria, in theancient oasis village of Temacine.Working with the local people, theyhelped build a natural sewagepurification system designed in theshape of a crescent moon.

Not only is it a low-tech solution forthe waste needs of the localcommunity, but it is a thing of beautyand immense productivity. Whenmature, the garden’s harvest shouldinclude pomegranates, bananas,guavas and other fruit, papyrus, rushand mint – but there are also roses,lantana, hibiscus and dama de noche.The Algerian government now hopes toextend the project to some 50 othercommunities.

Working in Africa is particularly closeto Florence’s own heart; French bynationality, she was born and grew upin the Central African Republic whereher family had lived for fourgenerations. She later moved to Franceand the United States which, she says,was a huge cultural shock.

“I think that was my first awareness ofhow removed people had become fromtheir natural roots. They had so much,and yet were so unhappy. In Africa,people are still very dependent on nature– and that gives you a different link withlife. If you don’t know where your food orwater comes from, then it changes yourlink with life in its truest form. I was livingin the States and I began to feel theurgency of doing something about it.”

After years dedicated to raisingawareness of environmental issues,Florence got to know Dr Mark Nelson,who helped run the Biosphere 2project in the Arizona desert. Shedecided to join his team in order toextend Wastewater Gardens as a reallypractical way of changing things. Shespent several years getting to gripswith the science involved, but isdetermined to make the ideas readilyavailable to people who mightotherwise be put off by the science bit.

She feels that things are slowlystarting to change, partly due to theincreasing scarcity of water, so oftenused just to water gardens. “Peoplewho know me know I have a missionand that I’m passionate about it – but Itry not to overwhelm people. It doesworry me that some people fail tounderstand that we live in a closedbubble where everything comes back,and that plant life is the producing baseon which everything else lives. Withoutit, we cannot survive.

“Sewage water is the most nutritiouswater there is for plants – so why put itthrough a mechanised processinvolving water, energy and money,only to allow all those nutrients to go towaste? How crazy is it that we throw allthose nutrients away – and then go outand buy fertilisers?”_________________________________For more information, seewastewatergardens.net

Jenny Kean meets a woman with a mission to turn waste intowonderful, odour-free wetland gardens

Recycle of life

property

Few people like the idea of livingin an identikit house. Even if yourproperty looks like all the others in thestreet from the outside, there arecountless ways to make your mark onthe inside.

For many of us, these expressionsof our personality are enough – theyare what makes a house a home.

But for others, a bit of individual flairdoesn’t go far enough. These are the buyers – and it’s a sector largelyoccupied by expatriates – who wantsomething radically different: differentfrom what they have owned in their owncountry and different from every thingelse in the neighbourhood – and beyond.

Happily, Cádiz province has plentyof properties to suit this need. Sure,there are thousands of houses availableon new urbanisations, or else oldervillas dotting the coastal fringe aroundChiclana or Chipiona which don’t standout from the neighbouring property.

But take a look at fincas, for example,and you’ll realise that every one isdifferent. Then there are old townhouses.The frontage may not be radical, butthere are some big secrets hiddenbehind those whitewashed walls andbarred windows.

One thing a lot of these ‘out of theordinary’ properties have in common issize. They may only look like two-up,two-down cottages from the outside,but they can stretch back for ever –well for a couple of patios’ length.

Jose Franco’s señorial house inJerez is an example. Set on a quietstreet very close to the city centre, itlooks just like any good sized property.But go inside and you’ll find sixbedrooms, four dining rooms, twopatios, gardens – in all, 1,100sq m of space.

The owner – a classical guitaristwho trained with John Williams underAndrés Segovia – spent years workingin America and bought the house whenhe returned to his home city. It isunrecognisable now from thedilapidated property he bought, andthe only reason he’s selling is that it’stoo big for just him and his wife.

What really marks this house out isthe two-storey tower rising from thehuge roof terrace. Towers may becommon enough down in Cádiz buthere in Jerez they are very rare.

The original owner used the tower tokeep an eye on his workers in the fieldsoutside the city. Nowadays, it’s betterfor people watching. There are alsotwo vast attic spaces on the roof, ripefor converting into studios orworkshops.

The asking price through Mercers(spanishproperty.co.uk) is €1.3 million.

Over in Vejer Andaluz Homes(andaluzhomes.com) are selling a two-bed house in the old town for€420,000. That may seem a lot for atwo-bed property, even in popular Vejer,but a quick look round explains all.

The remodelled living areas in CasaAntigua are smart, stylish, stunning. It’srare to find town houses which admitso much light but this property is full of

the stuff and that’s what makes it standout. The owners have emphasised itsqualities by keeping out the clutter,which means you can enjoy the roomsat their best. There’s also a sizeableroof terrace, not quite big enough toplay tennis on but not far off.

If living within the walls of a castletakes your fancy, nip over to Olvera.The town’s main agent, OlveraProperties (olveraproperties.com), isselling a well renovated two bed, twobathroom townhouse with a pair ofterraces and unbelievable views for€160,000. There’s also a three-bedhouse which forms part of the castle keep.

What makes these two propertiesso unusual is that they are within thecastle enclave. These houses just don’tcome on to the market nowadays sothere may not be another available atthe top of the town for years.

Ubrique may not spring to mind asthe first place you’d look - especiallynot if you’re after one of those patiohouses without end. But Proper LuzEstates (properluz.com) haveunearthed a gem right in the heart ofthe leather manufacturing centre withalmost 400 sq m built, five bedrooms,a lovely patio, a garage, a wine cellar–the list goes on. Though plenty ofmoney has been made in Ubrique overthe years, properties like this are asrare here as hen’s teeth so at€600,000 it’s a good buy.

Of course, one man’s bog standardvilla is another’s dream house; similarly,what might seem like the bijou countrybolt hole of your dreams might appearto be a run-down cattle shed to thenext potential buyer.

We’re all looking for somethingdifferent – it’s just a good job thechoice of properties in the provincecan cater for all needs.

48 PROPERTY

Out of theordinaryTony Jefferies casts an eye over propertieswhich might appeal to a buyer looking forsomething a little different

I live near Olvera and own a separate property which Irent out for holiday use. I am hoping to expand intomanaging other peoples' holiday properties, andwondered whether it is better to form a company fortax purposes? What are the benefits and drawbacksas a small, growing business? G. Watson, Olvera

expertstax FERNANDO DEL CANTO

A founding partner in the firmKonsilia, Fernando has worked as a tax adviser in Britain forDeloitte and previously KPMG. He isqualified both as a Spanish abogadoand an English barrister andpublishes a blog on international taxmatters at www.taxprecision.com. Tel: 902 555 045: e-mail:[email protected]; konsilia.es

Advice is limited to general statements on finance, propertyand legal matters. Always check with your financial adviseror abogado if you need specific advice on these matters

> Having lived in Spain for some years and beingfamiliar with the business of renting holiday homes, as Iassume you are, my recommendation is that if theexpected business meets one or more of the followingcriteria, you should seriously consider forming acompany. Please be aware that this topic is verydebatable and different advisers may take differentapproaches, once all your other personalcircumstances are taken into account:

• Employing people or dealing with contractors. This isgenerally a risk factor as you will need to be dealingwith social security and withholding tax compliance(retenciones) and a company is a more suitablestructure to do so.

• VAT and international transactions. Usually a companywill offer you a better way to organise complex trans -actions and it is a clear way to separate your personalassets and activities from those of the business.

• If profits, before taking any director’s salaries, are inthe region of €70,000. There may be someopportunities for tax planning by using a company

• If you are going to use outside capital or privatefinance from third parties. A company makes it easyto establish the rights and obligations of all partiesinvolved

• Leasing vehicles, machinery, facilities or investing inthese. Here a company may offer some accountingand tax advantages

From a tax point of view there may be someadvantages in using a company, although this must notbe the primary reason to do. The tax rate applicable toa company will be typically 25 per cent up to the first€120,202 profit and 30 per cent after that. Anydividends taken will be taxed at 18 per cent. Salary willbe taxed as part of your individual income and the taxrate will go up to 43 per cent after €53,401 a year.

I trust the above will offer you a preliminary approachto assess the pros and cons of setting up as acompany. However, this is one of those matters whereprofessional advice should be sought.

50 EXPERTS

We live near El Puerto de Santa María and own our own property. Weare looking to invest in a second property which will bring us anincome and have been trying to weigh up the eastern and western endsof the Costa de la Luz. We know plenty about Cádiz province but canyou explain the options and the rough cost of investing in the areawest of the Guadalquivir? T Yardley, e-mail

property ANDREW BENITZFormer investment banker Andrew set upTitan Properties four years ago in thefishing village of El Rompido on thewestern Costa de la Luz, His businessoffers a specialist property investmentadvisory service and his team has manyyears’ experience in the local propertymarket between them. Tel: 959 399 982;e-mail: [email protected]; titan-properties.com

> You are not alone in knowinglittle about the western Costa de laLuz. This area remains very mucha secret for the Spaniards and afew northern Europeans thusprotecting its charm and unspoiltlandscapes. Characterised bysweeping white sandy beachesbacked by umbrella pine forests,the Huelva coastline runs fromwest to east like the Algarve and istherefore protected from the strongAtlantic winds often associatedwith the region of Cádiz. We havea fantastic year round climate withan average annual temp of 20degrees, warmer in fact thanCosta del Sol.

The Spaniards have holidayed inHuelva for years and in the summermonths in particular the coastlineis very busy so rental demand andthe potential for rental income ishigh. The market is still seasonalbut we are close to Faro inter -national airport just across theborder and Huelva is the fastestgrowing golf tourist destination inSpain, so we are bullish about thefuture rental market.

A number of new golf courseshave been built in the past threeyears including 36 holes at theCosta Esuri golf development and36 holes at El Rompido. If you areprepared to put the effort into a good owners’ website andadvertise on the right web portalssecuring in excess of 20 weeks’rental is achievable. Propertieswithin walking distance of thebeach and within luxury develop -ments are in high demand.

Rental income aside, theinvestment case is clearly evident,in particular when you contrastprices here with those across theborder in the better known Algarve.Like-for-like properties overlookinggolf courses in the Algarve aretypically 30-40 per cent moreexpensive.

Many developments that we offercome with a developer’s mortgageof up to 80 per cent of thepurchase price so an investmentfrom as little as €37,500 cansecure a golf and beach apartmentin this region.

Do you have any questions for our panel of experts?

send them to: laluz magazineApdo de Correos 39 , Vejer de la Frontera, 11150 Cádiz

Or e-mail [email protected]

Having fallen in love with the Costa de la Luz during a visit lastyear, we are now in the process of buying a property there as aholiday home. However, we hear stories in the British pressabout people falling foul of illegal building in Spain, especiallyalong the Costa del Sol. Although our vendor assures us theyhave obtained the necessary planning permissions, what canwe do to check that the property complies with the law? F Morrison, Hertfordshire

legal

JOSÉ MARIA DE LORENZO

Qualified both as a Spanish abogado and asan English solicitor, José Maria is the seniorpartner of Irwin Mitchell Abogados. To talk to the Irwin Mitchell bilingual teamcall 902 150 105 or [email protected]

> You are right to be cautious and, primarily, the followingquestions should be investigated:

• How is the land classified? There are a number of differentcategories including urban consolidated land andenvironmentally protected land.

• Is building activity allowed or restricted in any way? • Has the builder obtained the necessary licences?• Is the builder facing any legal proceedings due to an

infringement of urban planning regulations? • Are there any current developments in planning law which may

affect the property?

The most important urban planning regulation is the Plan Generalde Ordenación Urbana (PGOU).This is produced by localauthorities who classify land into different categories. There aredesignated areas where building activity can occur and otherswhich are reserved as green space or for purposes such asinfrastructure development.There are two essential building permissions that must beobtained from the authorities:

1. The Licencia de Obra allows buildingactivity to commence provided theproject is in accordance with PGOUprovisions and building requirements.This should be obtained before anybuilding work begins.

2. The Licencia de Primera Ocupaciónconfirms that the building is ready to beoccupied and that electricity and watersupplies can be connected.

If urban planning regulations are notobserved the building may be illegal.

Local authorities can impose various penalties depending on theseverity of the violation, including substantial fines and even thedemolition of the relevant property.

experts

I have read in the press recently about the growth in winesas an investment. Can you spell out the figures for me – howmuch would one need to invest and what sort of returns doesit offer? Are there schemes to invest in here in Spain?Andrew Flint, e-mail

finance COLIN LANGTON

Chairman of Langton’s FinancialPlanners at Sotogrande. Colin hasworked in the financial sector for 40years. He has also been a recognizedexpert witness for the UK LawSociety. Langtons (IFA) Spain branchis regulated along with its UK offices.Readers can contact Colin on 956 796 791; [email protected]

> A managed portfolio of fine wine is a lowish riskinvestment, offering tax free returns to British or Spanishresidents (it is treated as a wasting asset by the taxman).Premier Cru of London was set up by financial advisers andhas been offering wine portfolios as an investment since1992; I am their sole agents in this area and many of myfirm’s clients have this as part of their overall investmentstrategy. Whether you want to use it to pay school fees,provide retirement income or any other investment, thePremier Cru scheme allows for this.

We all know past returns don’t guarantee future performance,however if you like Château Margaux at £200 a bottle you arenot likely to wake up tomorrow and decide you don’t like itany more! In other words there is an established market forfine wines, a growing demand and limited supply – all goodfor investors. You can invest from a fewthousand upwards, and returns havebeaten most accepted otherinvestments. For example, in June2005 a client invested £28,216. Thevalue at the end of June 2007 was£51,900. Another client invested£29,288 in November 2005 which isnow valued at £57,210. The smallerinvestments have not done so well.For example an investment of£4,832 in June 2005 now has avalue of £6,175.

Other interesting investmentideas include a VAT factoringscheme which gives you highguaranteed returns, and arecently launched ProtectedWater Fund, investing worldwidein what has become the newliquid gold. The fund hasreturned six per cent (sterling)in its first three months oftrading, and your capital is onehundred per cent guaranteed atmaturity by Barclays.

52 EXPERTS

Advice is limited to general statements on finance, propertyand legal matters. Always check with your financial adviseror abogado if you need specific advice on these matters

Most expatriates have had a positiveexperience with the Spanish National HealthService (INSS), which is rated ninth in the worldby the World Health Organisation. What’s more,Spain does not suffer from the hospitalsuperbug MRSA and is the world leader inorgan donations.

The INSS provides free or low cost healthcare to those linked into the social securitysystem and to some extent to citizens of theEuropean Union. The private health sectorworks alongside the state system and it isreassuring to know that private medicalinsurance costs a good deal less here than inBritain.

Local pharmacies are a useful adjunct tohealth care as their staff are trained indiagnosis and treatment for most minorailments, as well as being able to prescribeprescription as well as non-prescription drugs.

All towns have health clinics (centros desalud) with doctors’ surgeries and for minoremergencies, as well as private clinics. Moreand more hospitals and clinics have one or twoEnglish-speaking staff; your local tourist officemay be able to locate these for you.

Temporary visitors to Spain:The INSS is available to anyone onpresentation of a European Health InsuranceCard (EHIC, the old E111) from the UK PostOffice or the Department of Healthdh.gov.uk/travellers. You will be charged forprescriptions.

Pensioners:Get an E121 form from the Pension Office in theUK and register at your local social securityoffice; take passport, NIE andempadronamiento (local residency). You will beissued with an INSS number (and eventually, acard) entering seamlessly into the SpanishNational Health Service. If one spouse is notpensionable you may be able to piggy back

onto your spouse’s cover. Check with the UKPensions Office. Prescriptions are free.

Residents: • Employees with contracts: receive an INSSnumber and card for full medical benefits withdiscounted prescriptions.• Self-employed/autónomo: Register at yourlocal social security office for INSS number andcard; take proof of your autónomo status,passport, NIE and empadronamiento for fullmedical benefits and discounted prescriptions.• Not working: Apply for an E106 from the UKNational Insurance contributions office on 00 44191 219 1999, which entitles you to a period ofcover in Spain depending on the level of your NIcontributions to date. On receipt of E106entitlement follow the steps above. Withoutentitlement, operate on your European HealthCard and an empadrona miento but you willeventually have to either opt into the system formedical benefits and a generous Spanishpension, or go for private medical insurance.Note that paying your own social security can bevery expensive (at least €250 euros per month)and private health insurance will almostcertainly be cheaper.

Non-Residents spending long periods of timein Spain: Use your European Health Card for as long asyou can, but eventually questions will be raisedas to your status and you will be charged forhospital stays. Consider joining a private clinicwhich gives you access to a general practitionerfor free. If you have UK private health insuranceor year-round travel insurance check the smallprint, as some polices only cover stays of up tothree months.

Private clinics: Every town has clinics that you can walk into ormake an appointment. Fees for consultations,tests and prescriptions are usually a good deal

cheaper than in the UK. Some larger clinicshave membership schemes where you pay anominal monthly membership fee, whichentitles you to see a GP free of charge, as wellas offering discounts for seeing their teams ofspecialists.

Private Health Insurance: Private insurance in Spain costs much less thanin the UK and there are many companies tochoose from. Sanitas, the international arm ofBUPA, has just won the award for BestInternational Private Medical Insurance for thesixth time in seven years; get a free quoteonline at bupa-intl.com. Spanish company DKVoffer an English-speaking service (Tel: 605 882815 or email [email protected]). Double-check with your doctor or clinic before signingon, as they prefer to deal with companies theyknow. Contact your insurance company beforeattending hospitals, nursing homes orspecialists as they want to know your situationin advance.

Useful Information:• To call an Ambulance dial 061 or the Emergency

Services 112 who have multilingual operators • Summarise and translate any existing medical

conditions• Purchase a Spanish/English Medical Pocket

Guide• Useful websites include medical translation

services at wordreference.com (type in‘medical’), practicalspain.com/Health.htmand freshdirectory.com/health

• For the UK Pension Service, Tel: 0044 191 218 7547 or e-mail: [email protected]

• Private clinics include the Centro MédicoChiclana near the covered market (Tel: 956 533 333) or visitchiclana.com/centromedico/ingles.htm andNovo Sancti Petri Clinic (Tel: 956 495 000 orclinicanovo.es)

Get health care In our series of practical guides to living and working in Spain, Angela Clarence details what youneed to do about medical treatment

54 HOW TO…

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Colette Bardell getsthe sweetest feeling forone of nature’s super -foods and the wellorganised societieswhich produce it

Organic, healthy and tasty – honey isthe star ingredient in the kitchen of any eco-conscious cook. It has no additives, isproduced organically and naturally by one ofnature’s busiest insects and is rich in easilyabsorbed nutrients. So it’s easy to see whyhoney, so important to ancient civilisations,fits the bill for today’s health conscious andenvironmentally aware consumer.

Wherever there are bees around theworld, mankind has harvested their sweetbounty but if you subscribe to that in-voguefood mantra ‘eat local’, your honey shouldcome from closer to home. “Here in theCádiz region we are lucky to have just theright enviromental elements to produce arich, varied and hundred per cent naturalhoney,” says Inmaculada Garcia Fernandezof Rancho de Cortesano, honey harvestersbased in the rolling countryside around Jerez.

This 25-year-old family business sellsprize-winning honey-based products. Thereare around 2,000 beehives situated acrossthe province in natural parks and unspoiltmountain areas such as the Sierra deGrazalema and Los Alcornocales naturalpark. That means 80,000 bees are producinghoney of various flavours and also royal jelly,pollen, bees wax and propolis – a resin usedfor medicinal and industrial purposes.

56 COOKING CULTURE

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The sierra of the province has no shortageof flowers and water, the raw ingredientsneeded by the bees for honey production.Honey bees can travel up 10 kilometres tocollect the nectar from flowers which is thenconverted into honey back in the hive. Pollenis also picked up on the bees’ back legs andis fundamental to cross-pollination, thusnurturing the eco-system. By arranging forthe bee swarm to collect in hives, mankindhas been able to semi-domesticate theinsects and cajole them into producingexcess honey which is then harvestedwithout harm to the bees.

Honey production has been manipulatedby man for thousands of years: Babylonian,Egyptian, Roman and Medieval texts allvenerate its health giving effects. Theancients considered it a divine nectar and itsreputation was such that even the OldTestament refers to the ‘promised land’ asflowing with milk and honey.

Through advances in modern sciencemuch, though not all, has been revealed aboutits health giving properties. A complexsubstance, it contains only trace elements ofvitamins and minerals but its maincomponents are carbohydrates in the forms offructose and glucose which provide the bloodwith two of its three most important sugars.

These ‘simple sugars’ slowly but immedi -ately release energy – keeping you going forlonger. Honey also has a low GI (GlycemicIndex), the holy grail of the modern dieter,and is believed to have levels of antioxidantsseen as crucial for today’s healthy eater.

With powerful antiseptic and antibacterialproperties as a medicine, honey is a curativewhen ingested for ailments includingindigestion, stomach ulcers, insomia, sorethroats, certain heart problems, tooth painand increasing muscular activity. Usedexternally it is known to help heal burns and wounds.

At Rancho Cortesano you can experiencethe work of the evolved and sophisticatedspecies that gives us this life-enhancingsuperfood. Inside the information centre/shopis an open-roofed patio with an observationwindow that allows viewers to see how thebees work.

It’s an enlightening experience that putsyou in mind of a busy international airport ona bank holiday weekend, though all inminiature. Firstly there’s the drone – a small-scale version of jet engine roar, a continuousblurr of arriving and departing bees onlylacking airline livery. The natural hives –themselves incredible architectural forms –could easily be the inspiration for a modernairport terminal. Then there’s the distinctivesmell: as far from jet fuel as you can get –sweet, treacly and thoroughly intoxicating.

Each of the hives is a fully formed colonywith hierarchal and communication systemsnot dissimilar to our own. The queen bee isat its centre. Mother to all the habitants, sheis constantly protected and fed royal jelly tohelp her produce up to 2,000 eggs a day;she typically lives three to five years. Dronebees are male and have the sole role ofmating with the queen; should they besucessful, they will die soon after. Their lifeexpectancy is up to 90 days. Worker bees doeverything else from feeding the colony tocleaning, repairing and defending. They livebetween four and eight weeks.

It takes all this frenetic activity to producethe various types of honey on sale at theranch’s shop. “We have many types of honey,all of which are dependent on the flowersource used by the bees,” says Inmaculada.“For a honey to be labelled with a specificname it must contain more than 50 per centof the nectar from a particular flower or plant.”

The ranch produces mil-flores, containinga variety of flowers, and this is the best

substitute for sugar as its taste is not overlydistinctive; it comes with or without nuts.

Other products include azahar (orangeblossom) from the banks of the Guadalquivirand Guadalhorce rivers (this is clear with thetaste of orange and has calming properties);encina (holm oak), which is very dark with adistinctive treacle taste and helps combatanaemia; romero (rosemary) from Granada,light in colour and good for liver problems;eucalipto (eucalyptus) which is clear or darkand hails from the Guadalete valley, tastesstrongly of its source and is good for urinaryand respiratory problems; madroño, fromSan José del Valle, is amber and has a bittertaste (it’s used for diarrhoea and livercomplaints); and meloja, a mix of honey, cidra(a type of pumpkin used in pastry making inSpain) and ápices. This is a traditional localdessert that’s great with goat’s cheese or ice-cream.

The dedication of Inmaculada and her familyto apiculture is rooted in their love and carefor the environment. “Honey is an amazingproduct and we are proud that many of ourproducts now have eco-certification and thatwe sell not only to restaurants and foodstores but to individuals who appreciate itstaste and health giving properties.”

If stored well (in sealed jars and out of thelight) honey has an indefinite shelf life, asshown by the discovery of jars of honey in anancient Egyptian tomb in the 1800s whichstill tasted good thousands of years later.

_______________________________________Rancho Cortesano – Museo de la miel y las abejasCtra Cortes-Cuartillo km2, Jerezranchocortesano.netTel: 956 237 528 / 635 514 786 for guided visits


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Sabores, Hotel ChancilleriaJerez de la Frontera

Jerez is great for tapas but good modernrestaurants have seemed thin on the grounduntil now.

Sabores, part of Jerez‘s latest boutiquehotel, is injecting new flavour into the city’sgastro scene. Chef Juan de Dios Heredia isquickly gaining a good reputation for this cosy,stylish restaurant. Set in what was once theold chancery in the gypsy quarter, therenovated building is now a tapas area anddining room.

The decor is Asian simplicity: dark browns,Chinese lacquer reds and cream. Staff areappropriately attentive and knowledgeable;Miguel, who speaks English, told us whichestate our fino aperitivo was from – in this casein La Janda. Heredia’s aim is “to keep improvingvia innovation and mixing non-obvious flavours”.The menu has an Andalusian edge but wouldnot be out of place in a good British gastro pub.

Our carpaccio of venison and prawn camedressed in an oloroso and Payoyo cheesesyrup and was presented with great simplicity.Tagliatelle with oven-baked garlic and Chan -terelle mushrooms had the unusual addition oftender soya bean shoots, providing a welcomenew texture.

We followed with tuna steak with a puree ofcauliflower and steamed green beans, textureand taste coming together perfectly to pro -duce a delicious accompaniment. The tuna

was perfectly seared and not at all overcooked.A classic and proper fillet of beef with vanillaflavoured potatoes and yellow pepper saucewas prepared well. The wedges of potatoespoached in a vanilla flavoured oil reallysucceed ed in bringing another classic dish upto date.

We finished with hazelnut coulant withwhipped ice-cream and blackcurrants. Oneslice into this little chocolate dome – a hybridof sponge and biscuit – revealed a flow ofliquid, dark chocolate that slithered across thewhite dish before melding with the red berriesthat made a feast for the eyes and then thetaste buds.

Another dessert really should be the chef’ssignature dish – oat and sesame seed spongewith strawberries and sweet pesto. Trulyunique, it’s bound to polarise opinion. Theaddition of the classic basil sauce, normallyassociated with savoury dishes but heresweetened, was clever; it packed a punch tothe senses and made you realise that herewas a young chef who isn’t afraid to takechances. COLETTE BARDELL_________________________________________Sabores Restaurante Andaluz, Calle Chancillería, 21, Jerez. Seehotelchancilleria.com for map.Booking advisable for restaurant. Tel:956 329 835. Lunch 1.30pm-4pm,dinner 8pm-11pm. Garden eating inthe summer. A meal for two wasaround €55 without wine. Specialoffers for laluz club card holders.

Venta El FaisánBenalup

The search for the perfect venta is anenjoyable one, and something which neverends. Especially during the cooler months,when the craving for piping hot meat, gameand soup becomes irresistible, we continueour quest.

These excellent roadside eateries usuallyspecialise in locally reared (or shot) produceand the quality of food together with their lowprices puts the nearest English equivalent (the‘themed country pub’) to shame.

The aptly named Venta El Faisán (pheasant)can be missed if you blink when you drive pastit. About two kilometres past Cantarranas onthe A2228 from Las Lomas to Benalup, it hasno sign and only the large number of carsoutside the smart sandstone frontage with itssmall patio gives you the clue that this is apopular local stopping-off point.

The menu, which has an excellent choice ofwine (including a Carlos Serres OnomasticaRioja at €22), specialises in meats and localgame. We chose an excellent sopa depicadillo (often very salty, but not here), abeautiful peppery and dense venado (venison)and a half conejo (rabbit) cooked in anexcellent game stock. The phrase ‘falling offthe bone’ really does apply here; the meat wechose was fresh, tender and cooked toperfection.

Other choice items on the menu includesolomillo cerdo (pork sirloin), chuleton deternera (veal cutlet), faisán (naturally) andperdiz (partridge). The bill, with a bottle ofwhite wine, came to €26 for two. DAVIDMacGOWAN_______________________________________Venta El Faisán, Ctra Benelup-Vejer(Cucarrete), Medina Sidonia; Tel: 956233 050. Take the Vejer to MedinaSidonia road (A396) and turn right atthe first turn-off, signed to Benalup(A2228). The venta is about 2 km pastCantarranas on a right-hand bend.Open 7am-11pm daily

The art of old and newcuisine

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58 EATING OUT

Sabores (below left) is astylish new restaurant in

Jerez boasting gastrodishes like hazelnut

coulant (right); Far right:Silos Arte y Relax where artand good food go together

Silos Arte y RelaxTarifa

Organic restaurants may still be few and farbetween along the Costa de la Luz but this isnot the only thing that sets Silos Arte y Relaxapart. Firstly, its menu is not simply organic, it’s

also a mix of quite unexpected ingredients.And secondly, it’s not actually a restaurant.

As you enter through the cavernousMoorish courtyard into the stonewalled diningarea you get a real sense of the history of thisbuilding. Once a 16th century grain store, Silosis now the complete urban retreat, combininga restaurant, bar, art gallery andcomplementary treatment centre to create aunique atmosphere of wellbeing and comfort.

Silos’ owners, Max and Isabel, are bothartists. Their creativity is evident from thestunning juxtaposition of original stone pillarsand vibrant oil paintings around the bar andrestaurant area – like a crypt decorated by Dali.

If ever there was proof that you can’t rushperfection, Silos is it. Max and Isabel took awhole year researching their menu, and theeffort has certainly been worthwhile. All produceis locally sourced through sustainable methods– not so much as a bean goes on the menuwithout them visiting the supplier first.

The food is presented with an artist’sflourish, stylish yet substantial. The simplicity ofthe starters allows the subtle flavours of freshingredients to shine, such as carpaccio of codwith roasted baby tomatoes, or red kidneybean and wild mushroom risotto.

If you’re not feeling plush enough to go forthe caviar (all sourced from a lake in the SierraNevada,) the foie is equally delicious, andserved unusually en croute. Such a dishepitomises Silos’ menu: simple ingredients,perfectly prepared, that will surprise. Equally

novel (and a lot better than it sounds!) is themallard gizzard. It is no small testament toSilos’ artistry that such an unfashionableingredient can be rendered so lovely.

The wine list keeps to Silos’ food mantra;most are organically certified and all comefrom tiny wineries, known personally by theowners.

Desserts at Silos are to die for, far fromSpain’s undeviatingly bland flans. Thechocolate and ginger cake was so good I feltlike curling up and purring – the cat that mostdefinitely got the cream.

Max and Isabel, of course, have thought ofthis, so up the intricate iron-worked staircasethere are two gorgeously furnished suites,replete with whirlpool bath, vintage four-posterbeds and their very own roof garden, offeringviews to Morocco.

Silos has managed to carve out a niche inTarifa’s already burgeoning organic foodmarket, and the reason is simple: It eschewsfaddish food in favour of natural, imaginativeand sustainable produce. Art has never tastedso good. PATRICK GALEY________________________________________Silos Arte y Relax, Calle Silos, 19 &Calle Cilla, 1, Tarifa. Open every day10am-2pm & 5.30pm-1am; breakfastsserved Fri-Sun & holidays. ClosedTues in low season. Tel: 956 684 685or see silosgallery.com. The bill forthree people came to €140. Specialoffers for laluz club card holders


laluzguide towhat’sonHolidays/FiestasCheck locally for ferias andfiestas when services could becurtailed

MARCH8thEl Gastor commemorates the 100thanniversary of Diego El Gastor witha Flamenco Festival

16th-23rdSemana Santa (Easter week) ishonoured throughout the province.Check procession times with localtourist offices but most start late.Good Friday (21st) is a publicholiday, but many shops may onlyopen for a half day on MaundyThursday. Easter Monday (24th) isa normal working day

19thRomería de San José. Záhara de losAtunes, San José del Valle.A Romería which originallyconsisted of religious pilgrimage isnowadays more of a celebrationwith floats, horses, wine obviouslyand people on foot who visit asanctuary or hermitage

31stRomería of Quasimodo, not in Parisbut in Olvera

APRIL2nd-6thMoving swiftly on from the Marchfestivities, a few Alka Seltzer andon we go into April feria time, andthis can be a real punisher. Don’tattempt them all! Vejer spring fairopens the season for Andalucía.

4th–6thSetenil de la Bodegas hosts theSierra Oliva trade fair whichcelebrates and promotes the olivesand olive oil of the Sierra de Cádiz

24th-28thDelicious drink and food at ElPuerto de Santa María’s sherry andspring fair

26th-27thAnother booze up, in this case it’sto celebrate Saint Isidro, patronsaint for work and agriculture. LosBarrios. Another Romería in SanRoque

27th-May 4th The most famous feria in theprovince of Cádiz is the renownedFeria del Caballo in Jerez withplenty of oloroso, fino, and ofcourse lots of magnificent horses

30th-4th Feria de la Cruz in Espera

MAY2nd-4th Guns blazing and pitchforks at theready, Algodonales steps back 200years for a re-enactment of May2nd 1810, when villagers brieflyheld out against Napoleon’stroops. See Day Tripper. For moredetails, contact the town hall on956 137 003

Pop/Rock/Hip HopMARCH1stMerche sings songs from her newalbum Cal y Arena in her homelandCádiz at the Teatro Falla. Tickets€9-€20

7thBritish singer-songwriter DavidThomas Broughton mixeselectronica and folk music, creatinga light and refreshing sound. María Gallardo is the supportingact. Teatro Municipal, Pedro MuñozSeca, El Puerto de Santa María.Tickets €4-€6

8thFamous Spanish Hip Hop groupSFDK, Hipnotik and La Nueva Eraperform at Carpa de la Magdelena,San Fernando. Entrance 12€ inadvance, 15€ on the door.

8th-9thPop rock duo José Antonio Garcíaand guitarist Toni Guerrero makeup Guerrero García whose musicechoes that of The Kinks, TheRolling Stones, The Clash and NeilYoung. They are playing on the 8that Fonda Utopía, Benalup at11.30pm. On the 9th they play at ElCartero, El Palmar at 6pm, andlater on at Barabass, Cádiz at 10pm

APRIL4thIsmael Serrano is back with songsfrom his new album; anotheropportunity to catch one of Spain’sbest singer-songwriters. GranTeatro Falla, Cádiz 9pm. Tickets€12-€25

JazzMARCH28thGitanes Swing present a repertorythat reproduces that decadentgypsy jazz sound from theParisienne cafés of the 30s, butwith other musical influences likethe Tango and more local southernSpanish flavours. Central Lechera,Plaza Argüelles, Cádiz at 9pm.Entry €9

28th-30thTake latin music, flamenco jazz,rock, funk and raga, blend themand you have Lolaimon. Playing atCafé Dadá, Avda de Sevilla 3, Rotaon the 28th at 11.30pm, at the FoxTavern, San Fernando on the 29th,also at 11.30pm, and on the 30th inBarabass Cádiz, Calle MuñozArenillas at 10pm

World MusicMARCH29thFados of Portugal sung by RosarioSolano at the Casa de la Cultura,Conil

FlamencoMARCH7thFlamenco and Cádiz continue to beenriched by fresh young talent.Caracolillo, a finalist in this year’sAlgeciras Flamenco Contest,demonstrates his art at the CentralLechera, Plaza Arguelles, Cádiz.Tel: 956 220 628 or online at tele -entrada.com. Starts 9pm, entry €6

7thMay del Pilar Flamenco companypresents Toros, Flamenco y suMisterio (Bulls, Flamenco and itsMystery), live flamenco dance,song and music. Centro Municipalde Arte Flamenco La Merced, Plazade la Merced s/n, Cádiz Tel: 956285 189. Entry free until hall fillsup, so get there early

11th -15thWorld famous flamenco dancerSara Baras presents Carmen byBizet. A show packed with tragedy,art and the essence of flamenco.Teatro Falla, Cádiz. Buy tickets online at teleentrada.com. Entry €15-€36, starts at 9pm

28thGuitarist and singer Javier Rubialmixes flamenco with jazz and rock.He’s playing in Rota’s auditorium,Alcalde Felipe Benítez. Tickets €8.9pm

Shows & DanceMARCHOn most Fridays in March, glamourreturns to Conil as the PanaisoCafe is transformed into adecadent, bohemian cabaret show.Glitz and glam, dancing girls,thrills, frills and more. A fullevening of multi-lingualentertainment with live music &table service (food available). Ifyou to feel like being part of theaction, dress to impress! Ticketscost €10 from Panaiso German

SFDKLolalimon Sara Baras

Compiled by Sofía López Chalmers

60 WHAT’S ON

Escena Abierta La Rampa Fame

Please confirm all events with venues or local tourist offices before setting out


bakery shop & cafe in Conil andfrom Kombucheria in Vejer. Moreinfo: [email protected] or Tel:653 81 24 71. Advance bookingadvisable.

8thTeatro Satarino present El Nombrede la Cosa (The Name of theThing), a spooky satire set inmedieval Italy, raising comedy to ahigher level, based on thecontroversial novel by UmbertoEco. Central Lechera, PlazaArguelles, Cádiz. Tel: 956 220 628or online at teleentrada.com. 9pm

14th-15thEscena Abierta present Mil TristesTigres (A Thousand Sad Tigers),contemporary theatre exploringthe theme of guilt and securityusing dance, drama andaudiovisual documentary. 9pm,entry €7

27thPuppet theatre Foam Band presentBom Borom bom bom. Starts at7pm. Entry €2,50. Central Lechera,Plaza Arguelles, Cádiz. Tel: 956 220628 or teleentrada.com.

29thIf you enjoyed the Christmas pantoby local Chiclana drama groupStarlight and would like anotherevening of raucous fun andlaughter – this time with thehelp/hinderance of the the adultmembers – come to the Lemon Treetonight for the Easter Show. Starts7.30pm, Entry €3 (children) and€5 (adults). Tickets available fromMartin on 618 838 042

APRIL12thEnjoy the family favourite ballet,Coppelia, directed by world famouschoreographer Víctor Ullate. TeatroVillamarta (Jerez) 9pm.

25thThe well-known show Jungle Bookat Real Teatro de las Cortes, CalleLas Cortes, San Fernando. Tel/Fax:

956 595 831. Show starts at 8pm.€4-€10

25thThe Jerez en Danza festival bringsyou a show by the National DanceCompany. Starts 9pm TeatroVillamarta (Jerez).

26th & 30thDe Manolo a Escobar is a showthat mixes music and theatre.Directed by Xavier Albertí, withthree main components, MarcRosich, vocals, Guillermo Marín onthe piano and Manolo Escobar. Aproduction full of feeling and soul.Teatro Villamarta(Jerez) on the26th and at the Real Teatro de lasCortes, San Fernando on the 30th .€22-€30

MAY8th-11th The musical Fame comes to life onstage at the Teatro Villamarta(Jerez). For details, seevillamarta.com or Tel: 956 350 273

Art/ExhibitionsFEBRUARY23rd FebruaryPaintings by Fernando Rubio at theGH40 gallery in c/ García de laHerrán 40, San Fernando. Til 22ndMarch. Tel: 956 800 903 or [email protected]

MARCH1st-10thPhotography Exhibition in Chipiona12pm-4pm & 8pm-late. Calle PadreLerchundi, 13

1st-23rdGuada, Memory of Water.Photography exhibition looking at water in its natural formthrough out the province by ManuelVera Borja. Claustro del PalacioProvincial, Cádiz.

15th –April 14thTo open its 2008 season, Galería La

Rampa in Vejer presents Cruces, anexhibition of paintings andphotographs capturing fleetingimages of cultural encountersbetween the players and thespectator. The exhibition includeswork by artist Ianto Perrin andphotographer Virginia Marín.Please check opening hours withthe gallery. Calle Eduardo Shelly, 4,Vejer. Tel: 956 451 394. Closed onTuesdays.

APRIL19th -19thMayPaintings by Marbella artist PacoSanguino, whose panels ofintricate texture and colour evokethe hidden richness of peeling,rusting, cal and lichen-encrustedwalls, plus deeper layers ofimaginary landscapes. Interiorsthat are inside and out. Galería LaRampa, Calle Eduardo Shelly 4,Vejer. Details: see above

ClassicalMARCH15thThe Cámara Orfeo orchestraaccompanied by the Oretania choirand the Vocal Ensemble El Jardínde Schömberg, performs classicalmusic from Baroque to contem -

porary times, with two pieces: TheQueen Mary Funeral by HenryPurcell and Requiem by GabrielFaurè. Teatro Municipal PedroMuñoz Seca, El Puerto de SantaMaría, 9pm. €12-€21

APRIL15thImna Shara conducts theTransilvania PhilharmonicOrchestra, Teatro Falla, Cádiz. Buytickets on line at teleentrada.com

GeneralJerez multicinema is offering filmsin English with Spanish subtitles,look out for (VOS) next to the title,which means orginal version withsubtitles. Multicines Jerez:Carretera Nacional IV km641.Puerta del Sur. ComercialContinente, s/n. Jerez de la Frontera

SportMARCH16thSport Relief event in the Marina atIsla Canela, Ayamonte organisedby The Oracle newspaper, as partof the UK Sport Relief nationwideevent. For details, [email protected] or Tel: 959 328 052

22ndSan José del Valle kicks off a seriesof all-terrain cycling trials that willtake place throughout the provincethroughout the year. Categoriesincluding a Gymkhana (withobstacles) and different lengthcircuits for different age groups.Entry free.

APRIL28th-30thThe ever popular SpanishMotorcycle Grand Prix at Jerez de laFrontera

CLOSING DATE FOR ADVERTS ISSUE 24 (may/june) Wednesday9th 2008.

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FOR RENTMonthly rental Conil till end of June 08, 350 euros pcm incl bills. 2-bed furnished apartment intraditional townhouse, recentlyrenovated, private roof terrace, 300m from beach & old town. Tel: 0044 (0)7724 [email protected]

FOR SALECharming sunny Ático in thecentre of Cádiz old town.Fully restored 2 bedroomapartment with new bath room,fitted kitchen and a 30m2 privateterrace. For more informa tionplease call 636 38 10 71

Volkswagen Transporter CamperWhite Volkswagen Transportercamper conversion 2002, 120,000km. High standard conversion ingreat condition. Comfortable doublebed, alot of storage space, cookingfacitites and small table. Storagespace for sporting equipment. ITVNov’ 08. Reluctant sale. 11,000Euros ONO. mobile 657 885 665

HEALTHColorpunctureNaturopathic Medicine GermanNaturopath (certified“Heilpraktiker”) and Physio -therapist offer a variety of naturaltherapies including Acupuncture,Colorpuncture, Massage andReflexology in Chiclana consultingroom. For more information please

call Alexandra on 699 228 325 or Gero on 676 744 401 or visit www.naturopatia-conil.com

Massage & ReflexologyAromatherapy massage, Sportsmassage/Injuries, Hot Stonemassage, Lymphatic Drainagemassage, Reflexology and Reiki.Treating the Mind, Body & Spirit.Also Bemer Bio-electro magneticEnergy Regulation. Treats manyconditions. Arcos and Home/Hotelvisits. All Areas covered. Over 10years experience. For moreinforma tion or to book an appoint -ment please call Carol Stone (ITEC)on 956 704 965 / 653 139 558 orvisit www.holisticstone.com

Ostheopathy & Massage offerssafe and effective treatment forback, neck and shoulder pain,muscle aches, headaches andmuch more. Please call BritishRegistered Osteopath Josie Leeson 636 381 071 or [email protected]

Thai Massage. A combination ofsoothing massage techniques,acupressure and appliedstretching similar to yoga. Thispowerful body work works through

the clothing. Many benefitsinclude improved joint mobility,stretching muscles, increasedenergy levels, flexibility andtranquillity. Christine has 15 yearsexperience and teachesIntroductory Courses and Practi -tioner Diploma Courses near Vejerand Brighton. Practitioner Coursein Vejer commences April 2008. Tel Christine 616 098418www.thaimassageuk.com

PROFESSIONAL SERVICESCreative Writing Workshop Learn to hone your writing skillswhilst enjoying a long weekend inbeautiful Tarifa. Four-dayworkshops for beginner andintermediate level writers will takeplace in May (21st-25th), June andSeptember with criticallyacclaimed, experienced tutors. Formore information, seewww.inthewritelight.com or [email protected]

Get to grips with basic Spanishspeaking and listening skills in 2-3 weeks.We offer 5-hour courses that coverall the Spanish required to get byon a daily basis. No nastygrammar; no abstract theory.

Material to meet individual needs.For a free trial lesson call NicholasSharman at Trafalgar LanguageCentre, Vejer. Tel: 655 671 380

Personal interpreterEnglish/Spanish. Need help goingto the hospital, doctor, town hall,police station, trafico, etc. Hourlyrates, emer gency call out serviceavailable. Call Lynda on 670892472problem solved

Colourvision Your local installer for all yoursatellite requirements. Full skysystems including sky plus fullyinstalled. Freeview systems fullyinstalled from only 369 euros.Viewing cards supplied andactivated.

New Pace digibox only 289euros. Sky plus box 345euros.Dish kits supplied andfitted. Tel. 956494415 670892890

Independent Deliveries fromIkea Seville. You shop and we meet you at thestore or we shop and deliver toyour property. Assembly servicealso available. Phone or email for aquotation. Tel: 00 34 954 931214

Mob: 00 34 656 631001 Email: [email protected]

SPORTSCostaluz Tennis ClubCome and join us! Sundaymornings in Nova Sancti Petri(11am - 1pm). Ladies, men’s andmixed doubles - all levelswelcome. For further information contact:Suzanne 956 437414 or Kevin 956 451066 email:[email protected]

JOB OFFERInternational PropertyConsultancy with office in Vejer dela Frontera seeks matureprofessional with English andSpanish language skills to join theirteam in a sales/ marketing role forthe Southern Spain area.Role includes following up clientleads, telesales, promoting thearea, meeting clients in Spain,accompa nying clients to viewresale proper ties, new buildproperties and otherbusiness/relocation opportunitieswithin the area. Enquiries to/Apply with CV [email protected]

Alcalá de los GazulesAntigua Fonda B/B Calle Sánchez Flores 4

Arcos de la FronteraTourist Office Plaza del Cabildo, s/[email protected]: 956 702 264 Café Ole Cerro de la Reina s/n Mesón de la Molinera UrbanizaciónEl Santiscal

Barbate Tourist Office Avda José Antonio 23; Tel: 956 433 962 Bar La Galería Paseo MarítimoHotel El Palomar de la Breña San Ambrosio km 4.5; Barbate-LosCaños de Meca

Benalup-Casas ViejasTourist Office C/ Paterna 4; [email protected]: 956 424 009

CádizJunta de Andalucía Tourist OfficeAvda Ramón de Carranza; Tel: 956258 646; [email protected] Office Paseo de Canalejas

s/n; [email protected]: 956 241 001; Active Language Plaza Libertad 4, 1st floor

Chiclana de la FronteraTourist Office Constitución s/n Tel: 956 400 101; [email protected] Boxes Etc Ctra. de La BarrosaC.C. Miramar, local 22 Nuevo Look Fashion La Vid, Edif. El Espinel, local 2Costa Luz Homes Eroski CentreLemon Tree restaurant Ctra de la Barrosa, Urb Soto del AguilaMonopoly Apartaclub la Barrosa Ctra. de la Barrosa, Los Gallos

ConilTourist Office C/ Carretera 1; Tel: 956 440 501; [email protected] Homes C/ Flor, 25

GrazalemaTourist Office Plaza de España 11Tel: 956 132 225

Jerez de la FronteraTourist Office Alameda Cristina Tel: 956 341 711/956 338 874 [email protected]

Mercers estate agents Calle Porvera 31; Tel: +34 956 329572

Medina SidoniaTourist Office Plaza de la Iglesia Mayor, s/n; Tel: 956 412 404 Andaluz Homes C/Hercules 2Chelsea Academia Pza carretita s/n

OlveraTourist Office Plaza de la Iglesia s/n; Tel: 956 120 816 Olvera Properties Calle Maestro Amado 2Bar Pepe Reyes/Tartan Bar Pza del Ayuntamiento 9

El Puerto de Santa MaríaChiropractor Centre Crta de Sanlúcar 6; Edificio Jardines deSanlúcar 1

RotaTourist Office C/ Cuna, 2. Palacio Municipal Castillo de Luna. Tel: 956846 345 [email protected]

Sanlúcar de BarramedaTourist Office C/ Calzada del Ejército s/n; Tel: 956 366 110;[email protected]

SotograndeC-International Abogados CN 340 s/n, Salida 130; CC Sotomarket

TarifaTourist Office Paseo de la Alameda s/n; Tel: 956 680 [email protected] C/ San Trinidad 1Bossa Cafe Puerta de JerezCircus Bar C/ San Sebastian 8

Vejer de la FronteraTourist Office Avda de los Remedios 2; [email protected]: 956 451 736 De La Luz Properties SL Los Remedios S/NMercers estate agents C/ Pintor Morillo Ferrada, Urb La NoriaHotel El Califa Pza de EspañaLa Patría restaurant Patria 48, La MuelaThe English Bookshop C/ Juan Rellinque 45

Zahara de la SierraTourist Office Plaza Zahara 3

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Laluz ClubDon’t miss your chance to tapinto discounts, special offers andeven free gifts available exclu -sively to laluz club members.The cash savings could run intohundreds of euros – and there’sno limit to how many times youtake up each offer.

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Laluz Club Card offersWatch out for more offers incoming issues and also onwww.laluzmag.com

La Alternativa vegetarianrestaurant, Jerez10% discount. Tel: 956 343 961,email [email protected]

Arcos Gardens, ArcosTel: 956 704 201, [email protected]% discount on green fee

Bagan furniture shop, ConilTel: 956 443 294, [email protected]% discount on purchases over €90

Califa Hotel & Restaurant,VejerTel: 956 451 706, lacasadelcalifa.com10% discount on hotel roomsoutside peak season (1st Jun to30th Sept and Semana Santa)1 bottle of house wine with each

table reserved at the CalifaRestaurant.

Happy hour for cardholders at theLos Balcones Bar from 6.30pmto 8pm every day except duringAugust. Happy hour - buy one getone free. Applies only to alcoholicdrinks.

Café Central Tapa Bar, VejerTel: 956 450 232 Buy three tapas get one free. Thefree tapa will be the lowest price ofthose selected.

Duendes de Jerez – BodegasValdivia, JerezTel: 956 328 997, villadelduque.com10% discount on tickets for theguided tour and state of the artmultimedia show at the BodegasValdivia

Estilo Asiatico furnitureshop, El ColoradoTel: 956 445 418, [email protected]% discount on all products

European Golf Society ofCádiz (EGSC), ChiclanaTel: 618 917 260, [email protected]% discount on first year ofmembership fee

Hotel Chancilleria, JerezTel: 956 301 038, [email protected]% discount on hotel rooms, freebottle of house wine per tablereserved in restaurant

Hotel Laime, ChipionaTel: 956 377 332, [email protected] Hour at the hotel bar from6pm to 8pm every day. Buy onedrink get second one free.

La Janda language school,VejerTel: 956 447 060, [email protected] % discount on Spanish classes.

Nuevo Look Fashion, ChiclanaTel: 956 537 020, [email protected]% discount on hairdressing andhairdressing products

Pizzeria Il Giardino, El ColoradoTel: 699 300 92015% discount on meal includingdrinks. Also available on takeawaysubject to minimum order of twopizzas

Simon Brown, Photographer,BarbateTel: 956 430 429, [email protected]% discount on modern portraits,10% on publicity, 15% onphotography workshops, and afree poster for weddingphotography

Silos Arte y Relax restaurantand art gallery, TarifaTel: 956 684 685, [email protected]: 10% discount on rooms witha bottle of “extra brut” Pere Guileracava. Restaurant: One glass ofMons Urium Pedro Jimenez sweetwine per person with dinner.

Sindhura Hotel &Restaurant, La MuelaTel: 956 448 568, [email protected]% discount on hotel roomsoutside peak season (1st Jun to30th Sept and Semana Santa)1 bottle of house wine with eachtable reserved at the restaurant

Spanish Sol-utions, JerezTel: 956 336 614, [email protected]% discount on Property Manage -ment packages within Cadiz provinceand 5% discount on Translationsand Relocation packages.

La Tapería, ChiclanaTel: 956 407 921. Buy three tapasget one free. The free tapa will bethe lowest price of those selected

Hacienda del Torilejo,ChiclanaTel: 635 424 564, [email protected]% discount on hotel roomsoutside peak season (1st Jun to30th Sept and Semana Santa)1 bottle of house wine with eachtable reserved at the restaurant.

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Laluz 23

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