06JULY-AUGUST2016

MAGAZINE OF THE INTERNATIONAL WOMEN OF ISTANBUL

PALACEPERA

A historical haven at the heart of Istanbul

Find Your Inner Zen

Around BeylerbeyiA SULTAN’S SUMMER HOME FROM HOME

WE ARE SAILINGMastering the Marmara in three days

LESSONS IN MEDITATION

JULY - AUGUST 2016CONTENTS 44

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LALE NEWS4 SOCIETY Hip happenings about town - Summer Lunch, Family Fun Day, an elegant make-up evening and more

14 NETWORKING How writing your own blog can enhance your business and how to do it right

16 EXPAT LIFE Karen Yarnold continues her hilarious take on settling in to Istanbul

18 CHARITIES Meet Mavi Kalem, a charity working to empower women and girls in Turkey with better opportunities

54 EVENTS Enjoy summer in Istanbul with our special programmes

LALE FEATURES28 NEIGHBOURHOOD TOUR We visit Beylerbeyi, the summer residence of choice for sultans

34 INTERVIEW Introducing your new chairwoman, the inspirational Anna Ilhan

38 ISTANBUL LIFE A portrait in pictures of the Bomonti Fransız Fakirhanesi, the retirement home for the poor run by nuns

44 ARCHITECTURE Take a tour of the newly refurbished, sumptuous Pera Palace Hotel

LALE LIFESTYLE22 WELLBEING Find your inner peace and learn to meditate your troubles away

24 HEALTH Acıbadem explains new developments in heart surgery

26 FOOD Secrets of gourmet Baklava by the iconic Güllüoğlu in Karaköy

50 TRAVEL Join us as we take the helm and sail away to the Princes Islands

LALE REGULARS3 LETTERS FROM THE EDITOR AND CHAIR56 BOARD NEWS57 NEWCOMERS58 MUMS ’N KIDS60 CLUBS, GROUPS AND ASSOCIATIONS63 SPECIAL OFFERS

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IWI Office Hours: First Wednesday of the month, 10:30am to 1:00pm. Answering service available every working day

Adresi /Address: Esentepe Mahalesi, Ecza Sok. Pol Center Casci, Apt. No: 4, Sisli, Istanbul – TURKEY Telephone: 0212 287 35 71 www.iwi-tr.org Dergi Adı / Magazine Name: Lale, Monthly Programme of the International Women of İstanbul

Yayını Yapan /Publisher: IWI International Women of İstanbul, Dernek Kod: 34-64/027

İrtibat Adresi /Address: Esentepe Mahalesi, Ecza Sok. Pol Center Casci, Apt. No: 4, Sisli, Istanbul – TURKEY

İmtiyaz Sahibi / Licensee: Yasemin KunzeAdresi /Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul

Sorumlu Yazı İşleri Müdürü / Responsible Editor: Yasemin Kunze Adresi / Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul

Yayın Türü / Issue Type: Yerel Süreli

Tasarım / Design:Marlet Corporate Publicationswww.marlet.com.tr+90 216 386 32 16

Matbaa / Printer: Marlet Print Solutions Fener Kalamış Caddesi: No:30 Kalamış / İstanbul www.marlet.com.tr+90 216 386 32 16

Basım Tarihi: 24.06.2016 Sayı: 81

Official Facebook page: facebook.com/istanbulwomen Instagram account @iwistanbul

Cover: Pera Palace Hotel, courtesy of Jumeirah Hotels Group

BOARD INFORMATION

IWI BOARD MEMBERS

Chairwoman Anna Ilhan chairwoman@iwi-tr.org

Vice Chairwoman Karen Yarnold vicechair@iwi-tr.org

Treasurer Leen Saket treasury@iwi-tr.org

SecretaryJeanette von Alvensleben-Niethammer

secretary@iwi-tr.org

Membership Coordinator Elena Sklyarskaya membership@iwi-tr.org

Lale Editor Nina Lister lale@iwi-tr.org

Sponsorship Coordinator Gülşen Şahin sponsorship@iwi-tr.org

Neighbourhood Community Coordinator Maria Eroğlu ncm@iwi-tr.org

Newcomers Coordinator (European side) Ayse Yücel newcomerseurope@iwi-tr.org

Newcomers Coordinator (Asian side) Gabriele Sailer newcomersasia@iwi-tr.org

Events Coordinator Merle Klehn events@iwi-tr.org

Social Responsibility Coordinator Kristina Wilfore charity@iwi-tr.org

Programmes Coordinator Fiona Slay programs@iwi-tr.org

Marketing & Communications TBA marketing@iwi-tr.org

Business Networking Coordinator Katharina Meyer networking@iwi-tr.org

Relationship Manager Halima Hodzic relationshipmanager@iwi-tr.org

Schools Liaison Coordinator Krastina Aranitasi schools@iwi-tr.org

LALE

OTHER IWI TEAM MEMBERS

Advertising Assistant Aylin Gottardo advertising@iwi-tr.org

IWI Newsletter Coordinator Suzy Kaluti iwieletter@iwi-tr.org

Digital Media & Website Coordinator Sibele Valsani digitalmedia@iwi-tr.org

Programmes Team Members

Tanja Grüb, Olga Dundar, Kathleen di Giacomo, Alexis Harvey

programs@iwi-tr.org

Events Team Members Anna Mozejko, Laila Soomro events@iwi-tr.org

Social Responsibility Assistant Nathalie Versavel charity@iwi-tr.org

Further vacant positions can be found on page 56

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LALE

Many of us will escape the heat and humidity of Istanbul for some of the summer, but for those that remain, there are plenty of ways to keep cool. Our travel piece this issue covers sailing to the Princes Islands on page 50, while our Neighbourhood Tour explores the ancient summer residence of sultans – Beylerbeyi on page 28. For the ultimate chill out, check out our feature on meditation on page 22.

This issue, our social responsibility slot is dedicated to Mavi Kalem, one of our grantees working to empower women and girls in Turkey, a subject close to our hearts – see page 18. But we are also featuring some extraordinary photographs of the Little Sisters of the Poor at Bomonti, taken for us by the exceptional photographer, Julia Forsman. Bomonti is the longest-standing of IWI grantees and there is a real ethereal beauty and dignity in these images of the nuns who care tirelessly for the elderly in Istanbul. See the series, starting on page 38. In our interview section this issue, we introduce our new chairwoman of the IWI, Anna Ilhan, who hails from South Dakota and has lots of plans in store for us over the next season. See page 34 to find out more about this inspiring lady, who has taken the helm from the wonderful Stephanie Machoi.

Finally, it is with great sadness that I must take my leave of this wonderful city and of the IWI, to return to the UK with my family. From the next issue, I will be handing over the editorship of Lale to Monisha Kar, who is from the US and who I know will keep up the good work we have achieved with the magazine over the past 12 months. I wish you all the best.

Nina Lister, Lale Editor

Recently, I saw a video with a little girl standing on top of the bathroom counter looking in the mirror and telling herself how much she likes everything around her: “I like my Dad…I like my Mom…I like my sisters…I like my hair, I like my haircut…” ending with raising her hands above her head saying: “I like my whole house.” She then proceeds to clap her hands, turn around and jump off the bathroom counter all while saying: “My whole house is great; I can do anything great!” That video has stuck with me as I make my way through daily life here in Istanbul. We all know that life can be very difficult here, but it is up to us to focus on the positive. I am often asked if I miss America. Of course, I miss my friends and family in America. I miss getting up really early on a Saturday morning after a night of snowfall, heading up to the mountains for a morning of skiing and heading home before the ski traffic hits. However, now my husband and I can go to Italy for a weekend. Life is about perspective and how you want to see it. I like this city and her craziness. I like my network of friends that I can really rely on; and I like the International Women of Istanbul hence why I accepted the chairwoman nomination. My heartfelt appreciation goes to Stephanie Machoi, our former chairwoman, for her vision, her perseverance, and her dedication to the organisation. Her enthusiasm has spread throughout IWI; and I am grateful. It is through her and the IWI Board’s hard work this past year that we have strengthened the foundation in which this organisation stands. During the past year, the IWI has gone through many positive changes. Although change may be difficult to bear, there are times when it is not just necessary but essential to the growth of an organisation. I am very fortunate for the amazing group of women I have the opportunity to work with on the IWI Board and within the embedded team; and I am excited for the coming year. I am looking forward to; more member engagement; more events for working women; more diversity in what IWI offers her members; simply more. The proper footings have been set; it is up to us as to how high we want to build; and remember: “Our whole house is great; we can do anything great.” With my warmest regards,

Anna Ilhan, IWI Chairwoman PS If you fancy seeing the little girl who has inspired me, please go to YouTube and search ‘Jessica’s Daily Affirmation’.

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

A LETTER FROM THE CHAIR

LALE SOCIETY

BAKLAVA TOURPHOTOGRAPHY: ANNETTE FLECK

Enjoying the tour

Elena from Russia, guest, Ayşe from Turkey and Kathleen from Switzerland

Miriam from Germany, Janice from Canada, Mary from Australia, Gülşen from Germany, Fiona from the UK

Leslie and Monisha from the US, Nana from Taiwan, Hülya from Germany Güllüoğlu owner Nadir and Nana from Taiwan

Dora from Romania, Maryna from Ukraine and Sia from the US

Hard at work

Maryna from Ukraine and guest

Nadir Güllüoğlu explains the processWaiting to get started

Ayşe from Turkey gets busy

Monisha from the US learns to spin the dough

Guest, Dora from Romania, Maryna from Ukraine

Displaying our wares

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IWI ladies enjoyed a fun and fascinating tour about baklava at the famous Karaköy Güllüoğlu, where they learned to make the iconic Turkish dessert and to sample some as well. See more on page 26

LALE SOCIETY

BLOGGING WORKSHOPPHOTOGRAPHY: NOEMIE DEVEAUX

Members of the IWI Professional Networking platform enjoyed an interesting and instructive workshop about how to set up a blog and make the most of it to promote your business, at the Marriott Hotel, Şişli. The workshop was led by Camille Bossel, from the Today I Will community, which aims to equip members with a better understanding of online marketing. Attendees learned how to set up a blog and how to make it as engaging as possible for all stakeholders

Halima from Bosnia, Suzy from the US and Catherine from France

Halima from Bosnia, Suzy from the US and Catherine from France

Chrissy and Suzy, both from the US

Catherine from France and Estela from Taiwan Suzy from the US, Catherine from France and Estela from Taiwan

Camille explains more about bloggingDuring the workshop

During the workshop

Workshop leaders Camille and Arman

Workshop leaders Camille and Arman

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LALE SOCIETY

MAKE UP EVENING PHOTOGRAPHY: KAMILA BAKIRHAN

RUJ Make-Up Studio in Arnavutköy hosted a fun evening of make-up and bubbly in June. Ladies received expert advice from the acclaimed make-up artist, Seher Sander

Chrissy from the US, Gülfem from Turkey, Stefanie and Susan from the US and make-up artists Seher and Veronika

Stefanie from the US Gülfem from Turkey and Stefanie from the US

Chrissy enjoys some refreshments

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Gülfem from Turkey

Stefanie from the USSusan from the US Gülfem from Turkey

Stefanie from the US

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PHOTOGRAPHY: ANNETTE FLECK

To mark the end of this season, IWI hosted a lavish lunch at the Sunset Grill & Bar, next to Ulus Park. Ladies enjoyed a delicious four-course lunch with wine and a glorious panoramic view of the Bosphorus

LALE SOCIETY

Leen from Jordan, Ayşe from Turkey, Anna from the US and Nina from the UK

Ayşe from Turkey, Jeanette from Germany and Fiona from the UK

Stephanie and Ina from Germany

Linda from South Africa, Toya and guest

Guest and Karen from the UKLois from the US, Marjorie from the UK and Leigh from the US

Erin from the US, Stefanie from the US and Tamsyn from the UK

Annie from Bulgaria, Anna from the US, Kate from the US, Keika from Japan

IWI SUMMER LUNCH

At the event

Katherine and Catherine from the UKMerle from Germany, Arzu from Germany, Ilkay from Holland, Monica from Portugal Kate from the US, Keika from Japan

Selin and Lale, both from TurkeyKathleen from Switzerland, Cindy and Nicole from the US

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LALE SOCIETY

Rui from Japan, Leen from Jordan, Marina from Indonesia The lovely Fiona from the UK

Jyldyz from Kyrgyzstan, Yoko, Noriko and Rui all from Japan

Marina from Indonesia, Rita and Rachele from Holland and Gülfem from Turkey

Ina and Margot, both from GermanyHifziye, Gudrun from Germany, Anna from the UK, Gülşen from Germany

Noriko from Japan, Leslie from the US Jeanette from Germany, Ayşe from TurkeySylvana from Germany, Ayşe from Turkey, Janice from Canada and Ina from Germany

Jeanette from Germany, Karen from the UK, Leen from Jordan, Fiona from the UK, Anna from the US, Nina from the UK, Ayşe from Turkey, Merle from Germany

Silke from Germany and guest Margot and Hülya from Germany, Hifziye

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SUMMER FUN DAY PHOTOGRAPHY: HALIMA HODZIC AND NINA LISTER

LALE SOCIETY

The IWI Family Fun Day was held at the Fransız Fakirhanesi, the retirement facility for the elderly which is run by the Little Sisters of the Poor. All proceeds were donated to the home. Guests enjoyed lots of fun activities as well as a delicious BBQ, all provided by IWI volunteers. With thanks to our fabulous events team!

The events team with chairwoman Anna Ilhan and the Acıbadem-sponsored ambulance

Our sponsors from Soda Life provided refreshing, sparkling water

Enjoying the bouncy castle provided by GymboreeFace-painting a scary tiger!

Chairwoman Anna Ilhan, from the US, and IWI intern Laila from Pakistan

The highlight of our silent auction - a signed Beşiktaş team shirt

More face-painting in the sun

Kids enjoy some face-painting fun

Baby Frida with Sibla from Turkey

Children painted cards at the Russian arts tableBoard members Maria from Bulgaria and Karen from the UK scuffle over the silent auction

Mother Mary and her colleague at the event

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All net proceeds go to Bomonti Fransiz Fakirhanesi

Thank YouTo Our Family Fun Day Sponsors

LALE NETWORKING

FEATURE: HALIMA HODZIC. PHOTOGRAPHY: GRAPHICSTOCK

HOW TO WORK YOUR BLOG Blogging is a great way to build an online community for successful business marketing. Halima Hodzic talked to Camille Bossel of the Today I Will community, which aims to empower women with better online marketing skills, following her workshop with IWI women

There are two highly compelling reasons to have a blog when you work for yourself – you can update it as often as you like and you can really up the ante when it comes

to reader engagement. If you do decide to run a blog, you need to have a certain level of commitment. Whether it’s a travel blog in which you want to share travelling adventures and tips, a food blog for sharing new recipes, or a business blog providing updates to services, blogs do require time and often need to have new content added several times a week.

Blogs can be a very powerful tool when it comes to engaging your customers, staff and other stakeholders. They allow readers to comment, thus providing a platform for two-way engagement and potentially highly valuable feedback. Using a blog for your business website can be a great way to connect with customers and strengthen your brand. Here’s how to do it right.

COMPELLING TITLEHeadlines and titles draw traffic, so be creative but not cryptic. “Not only should the name of your blog capture the attention of potential readers, but search engines love blog titles and people love to scan titles to select which articles they want to take time to read,” explains Camille Bossel from the Today I Will online community which aims to equip women with better online marketing and web design skills. If your title is too long, too vague or not something that people would search for, then the chance of it being seen or read diminishes tremendously.

SIMPLE INTRO“If your title is the hook that initially grabs your readers, then your introduction is that first crank on the reel that draws them in,” says Camille. A short, but well-written introduction can mean the difference between an engaged/captive reader and someone bouncing from your article within seconds of landing on it.

MAKE IT USEFULDon’t get caught up in the length of your posts. “The title and the introduction are essential to bring readers in,” says Camille. “But the body of your article will determine whether or not your blog will actually deliver any results.” If you cannot deliver content that provides solutions, useful information or creative

angles on existing information, then your blog post will not be shared. Using images, videos, block quotes or charts will break up monotonous bodies of text and give readers multiple pieces of your content to share and comment on.

READER-FRIENDLYEven the best information will be missed if you do not make it easy for your readers to consume. “Well-formatted posts will allow your readers to make it through the entire article and not miss those little gems that you almost buried in blocks of text,” says Camille. Using bullets, sub-headings, bold and italic text and line breaks or rules will help. Let your voice shine through to give your blog a personality. Blogs are meant to be informal, so even if you are running a business blog, let your blog reflect the human face of your company. You’ll find that people are more likely to respond to you and also buy your products or services. An individual voice will not only gain readers, but it keeps them.

INTERACT! Don’t just focus exclusively on publishing content. Develop your blog into an interactive online community. Encourage your audience to post feedback and comments, interact with each other, share their ideas and enhance your content by adding their own information.

HOW OFTEN?To build and maintain a steady audience, regularly add new content to your blog, advises Camille. “Every new blog entry should cater to your blog’s target audience, offer content that’s perceived as valuable, and build upon previously published content,” she adds. Once you set a schedule for posting new content, plan accordingly and don’t be over-ambitious. It is no good promising new content daily (or several times daily) and not being able to deliver.

Blogging can help you become a better writer, better thinker, develop an eye for meaningful things, and become more confident and open-minded. One of the popular growing blog platforms is www.medium.com, a user-friendly and simple platform for beginners which also offers many features that’ll make you look like a long term pro-blogger.

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HOW TO WORK YOUR BLOG

You are cordially invited to the

2016 Opening Meeting

From Women For WomenTo learn more about this event, benefits of membership, and our charitable contributions please visit us at www.iwi-tr.org

Monday, 26 September 2016

This year there are two opportunities tolearn more about the

International Women of Istanbul (IWI)organization.

A welcome drink will be provided.Additional beer, wine and snacks are available

for purchase.

EVENING SESSION18:00 - 20:30

DAY SESSION

Coffee, tea and water will be provided.Additionally food items are available for purchase.

10:00 - 14:00

at Marriott Şişli

TÜRKIYE’YE

LALE EXPAT LIFE

Join Karen Yarnold as she negotiates the ups and downs of settling into life in Istanbul. This time, the loss of her voice leads her to discover some essential ingredients for making the most of life in this wonderful, but crazy city

HOŞGELDIN! FEATURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY: KAREN YARNOLD

I lost my voice for two days back in mid-May which was a bit of a weird experience as I’ve had it for over 50 years and never lost it before, and I have grown to like the sound

of it, albeit it’s one of those Welsh accents I cringe at when I hear them on TV. Anyway, I digress. As well as finding innovative ways to communicate (WhatsApp and miming on Skype teleconferences were invaluable), I was overwhelmed by the response and concern from the people I have come to know in Istanbul.

The men in the small supermarket next door were extremely helpful, going around the shop finding all sorts of ingredients for remedies, and even carrying my shopping home as I must be in a weakened state. The manager of the best restaurant in Istanbul (Bishop in Yeşilköy – and yes I am biased, and yes we do spend half our lives there) made me the most fantastic hot drink concoction of fresh ingredients and wouldn’t let me drink any more beer (hmmmm). And my IWI friends and contacts were constantly in touch to see how I was and if I needed anything. I felt like a bit of a fraud really – as it was only a little cold. But all these people obviously realise how much the sound of my own voice means to me.

Well, this led me to thinking about how we arrived in Istanbul 10 months ago and knew absolutely no-one. So, how does one go about finding friends in this new country? And these friends could range from people you see in the street and try to hold a pidgin-Turkish conversation with, to people you know you can always call on in a time of crisis. (And yes – that is how you spell “pidgin” – I googled it.) As one new IWI friend said: “When you pick a home in Istanbul, you don’t get a house you get neighbours.” So how do we find them ?

SOCIAL MEDIAGood old Facebook. Now I know there are the FB haters out there, and the FB fanatics who pour their life stories out – I’m somewhere in the middle. Well, the list of groups is endless. I joined about four groups in the first few days after touching Turkish soil, just announcing myself and asking for friends. Blatant I know, but it worked a treat. I had about 10 contacts within the hour – some I met for coffee and have generated great friendships with, and others I had great conversations with but have never met at all. In fact, my profile picture must have been outstanding as one lady stopped me in “The Köy” (my pet name for where I live) and asked me if I was Karen Yarnold. Boy did I feel good.

SPEND TIME IN YOUR LOCAL ‘HOODOur Emlak was a great start for this. He traipsed us around Yeşilköy for days on end looking for the perfect apartment at the perfect price. Ok – so that didn’t exist but we are very happy in our home, and we got to know the area very well. The lovely thing about small local areas is that you can shop in a butcher’s, a baker’s and a candlestick-maker’s if you want (I meant fishmonger’s obviously). It’s like going back 40 years for me, when my old Nan had a corner shop and there were no large supermarkets in town. It’s great when you can wander around the streets and shout greetings at the shop owners. “Merhaba”, “Iyi günler”, “Nasılsınız?”. That’s where my sing-songy Welsh accent does come in useful. It can get difficult when they respond though as I don’t understand what they are saying. Turkish people love greetings. I particularly loved “güle güle” but had to stop using it when I was told that you can only say that when people are leaving your home, not when you leave a shop. There is so much to learn in this language!

GET A DOG Ok. So I know this one is radical. And there’s probably only a very small percentage of us who will follow this advice, but I never mentioned the new love of my life in the last article, so now is the time to introduce him. Barney Yarnold is now 11 months old – we think – and has been with us since he was just two months. He is really well known around the “Köy” and I get loads of people stopping me just to speak to him. I haven’t taught him any Turkish though – so that can be a bit of an issue sometimes. We got him from a dog shelter (Yedikule Hayvan Barınağı ), and have been thanked several times by the locals for saving a street dog. And we’ve made a lovely new Turkish friend as a result – who has been particularly useful in helping us start the process for the Turkish Driving Licence (more about that another time).

Barney and his pal

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Come explore

with us !

keystoneschools.com.tr I 0216 370 4951 I�  �  �  K.Çamlıca�  -�  İstanbul

REDRESSING THE BALANCEUsing the power of storytelling to advocate for girls' education, Mavi Kalem works at the heart of the community it serves. Kristina Wilfore reports

It is no accident that Mavi Kalem’s office is located in the heart of Fener Balat – a neighbourhood in Fatih midway up the Golden Horn surrounded by historic wooden mansions,

churches and synagogues dating from the Byzantine and Ottoman eras. This was where immigrants would flock in a city that was not always welcoming to strangers. It was home to many Greeks and served as the Jewish quarter for hundreds of years.

The neighbourhood is now becoming more trendy, with designer boutiques, coffee houses and galleries among the 160-year old Ottoman houses, helping regain the international feel of its past. But is also one of the poorest neighbourhoods in Istanbul and home to many Syrians, Kurdish and Romanian refugees who have fled their cities in crisis - seeking safety and security - in the hopes of surviving. Fener Balat was also where internal migrants landed, fleeing from the disaster of the Anatolian earthquake of 1999 when more than 100,000 people lost their homes. It is now where Mavi Kalem has been working with women and children since 2002.

Out of tragedy of the earthquake, came opportunity. It was after the earthquake that the turning point in terms of volunteering in Turkey emerged. Mavi Kalem, largely staffed with volunteers, started its work in this neighbourhood based on the idea of volunteering as a lifestyle.

FEATURE: KRISTINA WILFORE. PHOTOGRAPHY: HILANEH MAHMOUDI

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LALE CHARITIES“Women and children were chosen for the first working groups,” Dr Filiz Ayla, director of Mavi Kalem. “Providing psycho-social guidance, support on education, health care issues and skill development to the women and children who were already disadvantaged and suffered in the extraordinary conditions of the disaster were among the first projects of ours.”

IWI has been with Mavi Kalem nearly from their founding, with donations beginning in 2005 to support domestic violence programmes, a photography project for children, the establishment of an internet room for children, women’s counselling, and most recently, several projects for Syrian children and their mothers.

For Syrian mums, figuring out how to access services and get their kids into school has been an exceedingly difficult undertaking. Mavi Kalem has intervened as an advocate for mothers and their children to help them navigate the school system and speak with teachers about classroom issues that impede learning.

“The children we work with belong to different ethnic identities and cultures. Life is based on violence, discrimination, mistrust and victimhood,” says Gamze Karadağ Koç, General Coordinator for Mavi Kalem. This is why they have organised activities for children that provide therapies for learning how to live together, handling violence, and developing confidence.

PUTTING A FACE ON ILLITERACY

Having an office located in the heart of a neighbourhood where the people Mavi Kalem serves live, means the staff has a much different perspective on the needs of the community. Young girls will come by the office looking for food, classes, supplies or just some company.

Working with refugee and migrant populations which are in crisis, too often taken advantage of and re-victimised in a city as big and chaotic as Istanbul, creates two realities for small social welfare organisations like Mavi Kalem: First, they must be programmatically flexible in responding to the ever-changing needs of migrant women and children, and second, they must spend time building trust with women and their families.

With this trust comes responsibility to tell the stories and experiences of the

women and children they support. As a rights-based organisation, they are not only providing a direct service, but also trying to create understanding about the needs and perspectives of this community to policymakers and advocates who with this information can design better approaches at the

governmental level to help deal with the systemic issues that lead to poverty, isolation, violence and migration.

“IF I HAD BEEN AT SCHOOL”

Despite the fact that various laws and regulations have supported basic education in Turkey since Ottoman times, the state of education remains a barrier to development – especially with respect to women. After the formation of the Turkish Republic, primary education was declared to be compulsory and this status was subsequently secured in the Constitution. However, statistics reflect that illiteracy and relatively low

school enrolment rates continue to be a problem. Gender differences in literacy in Turkey (80.6% for women as opposed to 93.9% for men according to the 2000 census) and current school enrolment rates (91.8% for girls and 100% boys at the primary level) show inequality in access to education.

Opposite page above: Gamze Karadağ Koç, member of the board, with a girl who participated in a project on childrens education

Opposite page below: Mavi Kalem staff Filiz Ayla, director of the board, Leman Musa, volunteer, Serfe Eşsiz, member of the board, Betül Adısönmez, volunteer

Above: An interactive study in Mavi Kalem’s children’s education

Below: Mavi Kalem’s offices in Fener Balat

Mavi Kalem is looking for volunteers. Find out more at

www.mavikalem.org

Regional distribution of female illiteracy is another facet of the problem. The most striking illiteracy rate is observed in the south-east where 39% of women are illiterate, followed by the East and Black Sea regions where rates are 35% and 21% respectively.

Mavi Kalem decided to tell this story about the lack of education and its impact on women by featuring case studies of 21 women. Meetings were held with women who are involved in work life, as well as women with low education levels. In these meetings they encouraged women to talk about what completing school would have meant to them. What job would they have liked to do? How would their lives have been different with the opportunities afforded by education? How did this affect their ability to support their children? And, importantly, what are their hopes and dreams for their own children and their education? Putting a personal perspective on the issues is part of the strategy for creating change.

IWI was able to provide financial support for the purpose of bringing attention to education and gender by focusing on the personal narrative and stories of women. Issues like violence against women and early marriage are better informed when we can examine the lives of the women affected by these negative trends. For other Turkish NGOs, activist groups and government, a booklet such as this is shedding light on the value of education and ideally the change necessary within government and families to create a world where every woman has a potential to fulfil her dreams by being given the opportunity to learn, develop and grow.

LALE CHARITIES

Above: Girls who participate in Mavi Kalem’s children’s programmes often stop by the office to visit staff

Right: Betül Adısönmez, volunteer at Mavi Kalem

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ANNUAL REPORTS | MAGAZINE PUBLISHING | CORPORATE VIDEOS

FEATURE: LALITAH. PHOTOGRAPHY: GRAPHICSTOCK

MEDITATE YOUR TROUBLES AWAY

Meditation is a powerful tool through which we can neutralise harmful suppressed emotions. Suppressed emotions that do not really serve us

gain power over us. When we suppress an emotion, it will at some time try to resurface. If we don’t listen to it the first time, it will try again and again. In the end, it can even manifest as a physical symptom or disease. If we meet an emotion early on, however, it can be defused.

If we continue to suppress the negative emotions, we also suppress the positive ones. So, if we want to live life fully, we have to allow difficult emotions as well as positive ones. When we learn to allow and express all our emotions, we can also learn to observe them so they do not control us inappropriately. This is where meditation comes in.

Meditation is more than just a relaxation tool; it can help you to get in touch with your feelings and emotions. Life coach Lalitah, who is skilled in Osho, Reiki 3, Spiritual Healing and Channelling, shows us how

LALE WELLBEING

MEDITATION, A SLOW HEALINGWhen we meditate, we become more aware. We shed more light on ourselves, so there will also be more light on what has been hidden. That alone can create resistance towards meditating. We are unconsciously afraid of meeting what we have been suppressing.

The more we get to know our inner emotions and the more we dive through the layers, the more we will also reveal our strength. We will feel lighter as the layers disappear. We are clearing all the clutter. It rarely happens overnight. Meditation is a continuous process which, step by step, reveals more and more of your true self. To be able to stay in the meditative awareness, it takes practice.

Here is a simple model to meditate and bring awareness to your emotions: Accept – that it is there; Witness – without goal; Express – what it has to say; Let go – the final goal.

ACCEPTWhen an emotion is there, the best thing to do is to accept it. This could be any emotion. Many of us have anger or sorrow hidden inside. Most people are especially afraid of anger, because anger can be destructive. But try to look at it this way; anger is just life energy. Anger can be seen as destructive, but destructive can be good. Sometimes something needs to be torn down to make way for something new. The next time you feel anger, try to figure out what it is really about. Ask yourself: Is it about a limit that you have reached? Are there things you did not say at the right time? Is there something that is no longer working? Something that has to be changed? Is there a side of yourself you are neglecting?

EXPRESSIf you feel the anger comes and you need to react, then try not to explode in anybody’s face. Instead, find a remote place where you can hit pillows, kick something, beat, scream – let your truth be spoken (that can be in words to someone, or writing, drawing, dancing) and let the energy be released so the life energy can circulate in your body. Give it some time, don’t stop or collapse. Give it at least 15 minutes.

WITNESSAfter you have expressed, you can sit or lie down and meditate. Feel the emotion that lies under the anger. Feel what message you get, feel how your body feels at the moment. Just stay with the emotions and observe them. Do they have a colour? Are they in a certain place in the body? What happens when you focus on them? Do they grow?

Are they changing? What happens when you give some attention to your emotion? Does it have a message for you? In all cases, try not to judge the emotion. Just let it be there inside you and observe it. Let it be there and see what happens in you.

LET GOMany want to get to the ultimate goal, the release, without these steps. It is not possible. Without these steps, the process is just another form of suppression, and the emotions will just pop up in another way. True letting go happens so much more easily when you have gone through the three first steps. Now, after the three steps just relax, enjoy the new silent space created inside of you and with one sweep, let go! It really is that simple.

Lalitah gives workshops and sessions in Denmark and Turkey, and can be reached at www.awareness-institute.net or Lalitah@awareness-insitute.net.

9 NEW DEVELOPMENTS IN HEART SURGERY

Advanced Technology Gives Heart Disease Patients a New Lease on Life!

As with the rest of the world, heart diseases are also at the top of the list for causes of death in our country and have been becoming more widespread in recent years. While heart attacks are now common even among young people, unhealthy eating habits, unsuitable lifestyles, immobility, smoking and stress are all factors that lead to the predication that these diseases will increase in the future. In contrast, the developments in technology and the medical advancements have improved treatments at a head-spinning pace and many achievements that could be considered ‘miracles’ have been made. Acibadem Maslak Hospital Cardiovascular Surgery Specialist Prof. Dr. Cem Alhan explained 9 new developments in cardiovascular surgery.

Robotic heart surgery

Robotic heart surgery

Endoscopic artery removal

TAVI

Seamless valve

Circulation support devices

Aorta and mitral valve repair

Transcatheter mitral valve replacement

Mitraclip and Neochord

1

2

3

4

6

8

7

5

The Da Vinci Robotic Heart Surgery provides the advanced technology surgeons need to perform more sensitive, more detailed and more complex work. The surgeon remotely commands the arms of the robot that has been designed to perform the surgery by watching a monitor. The Da Vinci robot enables the surgery to be done through tiny holes rather than having to make incisions through bone. With the 3 dimensional camera even the most difficult areas can be seen easily. The robot arms can rotate 540 degrees and in six directions to reach places the human hand cannot. This enables patients to recover quickly and easily in order to return to their normal physical activities. Among the operations that are done by this method are by-pass, mitral and tricuspid flap repair and replacement, septal defects and rhythm abnormality treatments.

In this method, which is called closed surgery since no large incision is made, special instruments are used and entry is made with a camera through 6-8 cm wide tiny incisions, without cutting through any bone, to perform the surgery. The greatest advantage in minimal invasive surgery through the surgeon increasing their hand skills. The fact that there is less pain, less bleeding, less need for transfusion and low risk of infection, means that patients can go back to their daily routine and their jobs more quickly.

While TAVI is a newly developed method, the scientific results indicate that it will become a widely used method. Applied especially on patients of advanced age, that are at a higher risk, TAVI enables the attachment of an aortic cover using a catheter without requiring open-heart surgery. In aortic stenosis cases, a catheter is inserted through a 3-4 cm incision cut into the groin or chest, moved to the area needed and a new cover with an aortic stent is attached.

This is a valve used in operations to replace aortic valves. It has been developed to replace the existing valves with seams, able to be attached in a very short time to provide a much higher performance. Thus it reduces risks in patients with especially small and fine aortas.

A ray of hope for patients with severe heart damage requiring transplants. Since heart transplants are very limited in Turkey due to the lack of donors, this is a method used safely in advanced stage patients.

Prof. Dr. Cem Alhan said “Despite the head spinning advancements in technology, unfortunately there is still no artificial heart valve that can even come close to the performance of the human heart valve. Therefore, based on the idea that the ‘best heart valve is a person’s own heart valve,’ we try our best to repair the heart valves of our patients whenever possible. Even though this is not a new practice it is not widely used in Turkey”.

This very new application for transcatheter mitral valve replacement is not being used yet in Turkey. It is used in cases that are at extreme risk in operations. A catheter is inserted through a 3-4 cm incision in the groin or chest of patients with mitral valve failure and a new stent valve is attached in the mitral location with the aid of the catheter.

Previously, veins that were removed from legs and arms for by-pass surgery were taken out through lengthwise incisions. The endoscopic vein removal technique makes it possible to remove veins through a 2 cm incision, with a camera and special tools. This achieves less pain, smaller scars and faster recovery time.

Advanced technology makes it possible to treat heart valves without surgery. Mitraclip and Neochord methods enable repair of the heart valve instead of replacement. Prof. Dr. Cem Alhan said “In cases where patients have mitral valve failure but are at too much risk for operation, a catheter is inserted through a 3-4 cm incision in the groin or chest and makes it possible to repair the mitral valve”.

SPONSORED FEATURE

9 NEW DEVELOPMENTS IN HEART SURGERY

Advanced Technology Gives Heart Disease Patients a New Lease on Life!

As with the rest of the world, heart diseases are also at the top of the list for causes of death in our country and have been becoming more widespread in recent years. While heart attacks are now common even among young people, unhealthy eating habits, unsuitable lifestyles, immobility, smoking and stress are all factors that lead to the predication that these diseases will increase in the future. In contrast, the developments in technology and the medical advancements have improved treatments at a head-spinning pace and many achievements that could be considered ‘miracles’ have been made. Acibadem Maslak Hospital Cardiovascular Surgery Specialist Prof. Dr. Cem Alhan explained 9 new developments in cardiovascular surgery.

Robotic heart surgery

Robotic heart surgery

Endoscopic artery removal

TAVI

Seamless valve

Circulation support devices

Aorta and mitral valve repair

Transcatheter mitral valve replacement

Mitraclip and Neochord

1

2

3

4

6

8

7

5

The Da Vinci Robotic Heart Surgery provides the advanced technology surgeons need to perform more sensitive, more detailed and more complex work. The surgeon remotely commands the arms of the robot that has been designed to perform the surgery by watching a monitor. The Da Vinci robot enables the surgery to be done through tiny holes rather than having to make incisions through bone. With the 3 dimensional camera even the most difficult areas can be seen easily. The robot arms can rotate 540 degrees and in six directions to reach places the human hand cannot. This enables patients to recover quickly and easily in order to return to their normal physical activities. Among the operations that are done by this method are by-pass, mitral and tricuspid flap repair and replacement, septal defects and rhythm abnormality treatments.

In this method, which is called closed surgery since no large incision is made, special instruments are used and entry is made with a camera through 6-8 cm wide tiny incisions, without cutting through any bone, to perform the surgery. The greatest advantage in minimal invasive surgery through the surgeon increasing their hand skills. The fact that there is less pain, less bleeding, less need for transfusion and low risk of infection, means that patients can go back to their daily routine and their jobs more quickly.

While TAVI is a newly developed method, the scientific results indicate that it will become a widely used method. Applied especially on patients of advanced age, that are at a higher risk, TAVI enables the attachment of an aortic cover using a catheter without requiring open-heart surgery. In aortic stenosis cases, a catheter is inserted through a 3-4 cm incision cut into the groin or chest, moved to the area needed and a new cover with an aortic stent is attached.

This is a valve used in operations to replace aortic valves. It has been developed to replace the existing valves with seams, able to be attached in a very short time to provide a much higher performance. Thus it reduces risks in patients with especially small and fine aortas.

A ray of hope for patients with severe heart damage requiring transplants. Since heart transplants are very limited in Turkey due to the lack of donors, this is a method used safely in advanced stage patients.

Prof. Dr. Cem Alhan said “Despite the head spinning advancements in technology, unfortunately there is still no artificial heart valve that can even come close to the performance of the human heart valve. Therefore, based on the idea that the ‘best heart valve is a person’s own heart valve,’ we try our best to repair the heart valves of our patients whenever possible. Even though this is not a new practice it is not widely used in Turkey”.

This very new application for transcatheter mitral valve replacement is not being used yet in Turkey. It is used in cases that are at extreme risk in operations. A catheter is inserted through a 3-4 cm incision in the groin or chest of patients with mitral valve failure and a new stent valve is attached in the mitral location with the aid of the catheter.

Previously, veins that were removed from legs and arms for by-pass surgery were taken out through lengthwise incisions. The endoscopic vein removal technique makes it possible to remove veins through a 2 cm incision, with a camera and special tools. This achieves less pain, smaller scars and faster recovery time.

Advanced technology makes it possible to treat heart valves without surgery. Mitraclip and Neochord methods enable repair of the heart valve instead of replacement. Prof. Dr. Cem Alhan said “In cases where patients have mitral valve failure but are at too much risk for operation, a catheter is inserted through a 3-4 cm incision in the groin or chest and makes it possible to repair the mitral valve”.

A visit to Istanbul’s oldest producer of Baklava – the traditional dessert which is popular in Turkey, the Middle East and South-East Europe – takes in more

than you might expect. This became apparent when I was instructed to come early so we would have time to “dress up properly”. Nadir Güllüoğlu, chairman of Karaköy Güllüoǧlu, gave us a warm welcome in his office, which is decorated with the numerous gourmet awards his company has earned for the baklava it produces. At Karaköy Güllüoǧlu, baklava is still produced in the same way as in the good old days when sultans enjoyed dessert at the Topkapı Palace hundreds of years ago.

In 1820, the company was founded in Gaziantep – a city known for producing some of the world’s best pistachios. In 1949, Karaköy Güllüoǧlu started up in Istanbul, and today they still only use the first crop of pistachios from Gaziantep. Mr Güllüoğlu is now the fifth generation of his family to work in the company. He says he hopes that all his children, and hopefully his grandchildren, will follow him. There are great prospects for the future, because the company now sells

its baklava to distributors in more than 100 countries. You can even order online, and you can follow all the company’s activities on its own TV show: Karaköy Güllüoǧlu at World TV channels, where it can be seen participating in workshops and food competitions all over the world.

BAKLAVA IN BEYOĞLUKaraköy Güllüoǧlu is the oldest producer of the legendary Turkish dessert dish, Baklava, in Istanbul. Annette Fleck paid a visit to the company, which has become so renowned in the world of baklava it has its own TV show, to see just how it’s done

LALE GOURMET

FEATURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY: ANNETTE FLECK

26

Baklava is a very sweet and crusty pastry, which does not appear particularly easy to prepare, so we were curious to see how Karaköy Güllüoǧlu does it. Thanks to our protective clothing – we were covered from head to toe like delicately translucent fairies – we were allowed to enter the first production facility room, where everything is white and the air is thick with a fog of flour. Even the eyelashes of the workers here have a thick coating of the white stuff.

Here, there are 50 employees working six days a week. It’s hard work, for strong men only, as one needs a lot of power to handle this special dough, an Ottoman special concoction of flour, salt and water. For the baklava, the workers have to roll the dough so many times that at the end, only 0.2mm to 0.5mm thick, it feels like pure silk. After watching the busy workers for a while, we were invited to try our skills. This was the fun bit but we soon found that even dusting the flour looks a lot easier than it is and it is easy to understand why the baklava workers spend 15 years as apprentices before being considered masters of their art.

In the further production facility room, up to 40 translucent sheets of phyllo-dough are layered together in big pans to create the excellent classic baklava. We also learned about the further preparation steps, where layers of dough come together with nuts, melted butter, vegetable oil and boiling hot sugar syrup. Every pastry has a different recipe, needs different treatment and temperatures in the oven. All ingredients have to be totally fresh and natural, bringing together 600 years of tradition with modern technology and the best organic ingredients.

We also discovered the very best way to enjoy baklava; spread a thick layer of kaymak (clotted cream) on the base, then dip the pastry into freshly chopped pistachios and, when you experience the first bite, listen for the cracking sound and you know that you are easting a masterpiece.

Karaköy Güllüoğlu can be found at Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa, Mumhane Cd, No 171, Karaköy

Opposite page above: Inside the bakery at the famous Güllüoğlu baklava factory

Opposite page below: Nadir Güllüoğlu demonstrates how to roll out the pastry as thinly as possible to make the best baklava

Top: A baker’s eyelashes are completely covered with flour

Above left and above: Presenting the finished product

Left: Arranging the baklava in the baking trays

27

A SUMMER GETAWAY FIT FOR SULTANSThe magnificent palace of Beylerbeyi and its surrounding neighbourhood on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus was constructed as a summer residence for a sultan. Leyla Amur took a look aroundFEATURE: LEYLA AMUR. PHOTOGRAPHY: KAMILA BAKIRHAN

28

LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD

The summer months are a fitting time to pay a visit to Beylerbeyi, a neighbourhood designed for

the lord of lords (beylerbeyi). Located as it is on the fringes of the Asian continent, tucked away beneath the Boğaziçi bridge and the Bosphorus, the neighbourhood of Beylerbeyi brings a distinct historical flavour to the Asian side and offers a glimpse into the Ottoman sultanhood.

The neighbourhood is easy to navigate on foot – something that cannot necessarily be said of much of Istanbul and is usually devoid of the throngs of tourists normally found this time of year at Sultanahmet. You can reach Beylerbeyi by passenger ferry on the Boğaz line coming from Ortaköy or Üsküdar and arrive at its Ottoman-style kiosk. Once leaving the stop, hang right for about 200 metres until you come to the Beylerbeyi Palace.

The palace, built in a French neo-baroque style, is actually a summer yalı for the “best of the best”, known as a summer residence for the sultans. The marble-and-stone palace – commissioned by Sultan Abdulaziz in 1861 and built by Armenian architects – boasts 24 rooms, six halls, and two bathing pavilions. The palace opens

into the reception hall, which features a pool and fountain, creating a cooling effect for the sultans in the heat of the summer.

While not as extravagant as the Dolmabahçe and Küçüksu palaces, Beylerbeyi Sarayı is decked out in Bohemian crystal chandeliers and Sevres and Chinese vases and was used to entertain heads of state, particularly from Europe. Much of the furniture in the palace was constructed by the sultan himself, as he was quite

the carpenter. Ship paintings can be seen throughout the palace, reflecting the sultan’s love of the sea and the navy.

Opposite page top: The view of the Beylerbeyi Palace from the water

Opposite page below: Around the pretty streets of Beylerbeyi

Above: A colourful fruit and vegetable stand

Below: View of the Beylerbeyi coastline

29

As an interesting but bleak side note, the palace also served as a fanciful prison for Sultan Abdulhamid II, who was deposed by the Young Turks in 1913. If observing the nautical themes throughout the palace has made you want to jump headfirst into an Ottoman-style bath, you are in luck.

After exiting the palace, walk in the same direction as the ferry (I told you it was easy to navigate), until you reach the Beylerbeyi Hamam, one of the 60 functioning hamams in Istanbul.

The Beylerbeyi Hamam was built in the latter part of the 1700s and has been more or less in service ever since with minimal restorations. The hamam was under the auspices of the state until it was privatised in 2014. After being as refreshed as one can get in a hamam, it’s time to continue on to the third wonder of Beylerbeyi.

Right next to the hamam is the Beylerbeyi Hamidi Evvel Mosque, which also sits right on the Bosphorus. Competing in a city that boasts over 3,000 mosques, the Beylerbeyi Hamidi Evvel Mosque predates the palace as it was constructed in 1779 by Mehmed Tahir Ağa in the baroque style. The mosque was commissioned by Abdulhamid I in loving memory of his mother Rabia Sultan. The mosque has 55 windows to shine a spotlight on the calligraphy and the Ottoman and European times, which is what the mosque is primarily known for.

While here, you should also stroll around the pretty streets of Beylerbeyi and take in some of the older-style wooden houses and architecture as well as the colourful fruit and vegetable stands and other interesting shops.

Above: A boat on the shore at Beylerbeyi; Below: View of the Kuleli Askeli Lisesi, the military school in Beylerbeyi

LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD

30

D ON’T BE FOOLED BY the current state of the Theodosian Walls. These ancient walls, which remained impregnable from the 5th through 15th centuries, are

actually the site of one of the most important battlefields in history. But what makes the city walls a trending topic these days has nothing to do with the sieges and earthquakes it encountered: it ’s the urban gardens, called bostans, within those walls. By all accounts, the bostans of old Istanbul emanated a fresh, clean scent – in fact, the name bostan

comes from the Persian words “bu,” meaning “fragrance,” and “stan,” meaning “place.” These gardens once served as the scene of contests to pick the best vegetables, and Istanbulites would even spend time and enjoy picnics here.

The Yedikule Gardens have been an urban agricultural zone for over 1,500 years, but today a large number of them are face-to-face with the threat of destruction. In recent years there’s been an ongoing struggle between growers and authorities as parts of the gardens are being filled with rubble

and the gardeners’ sheds are being torn down and paved with gravel. Despite all of these destructive forces at play, Slow Food Turkey and the Initiative to Protect the Yedikule Gardens have rolled up their sleeves to generate some much-needed discussion about Istanbul’s nearly extinct “oily” Yedikule lettuce by organizing the Lettuce Festival, first in 2015 and again in May 2016.

Given the current state of the Yedikule Gardens, the crop was harvested in Gümüşdere, Sarıyer, for this year’s Festival. For a crop whose weight once reached 7kg per head of lettuce, this year’s yield of 2kg at most might not seem all that impressive, but keep in mind that this is the first time

Istanbulites have tasted authentic Yedikule lettuce in years (the smaller variety sold in manavs around town as Yedikule lettuce actually comes from Antalya). The Lettuce Festival itself might have been the perfect way to greet spring while raising awareness among Istanbulites and connecting them to their past, but for its organizers, it doesn’t change the fact that the future of the historic Yedikule Gardens – which aren’t protected by UNESCO despite being located within the Theodosian Walls recognized as a World Heritage Site – remains uncertain. Perhaps their only hope now is for the UNESCO World Heritage Committee to discuss the fate of the Yedikule Gardens during their meeting in Istanbul in June.

The Yedikule Lettuce Festival in May reintroduced Istanbulites to a piece of living history with an uncertain future, Jbid Boyacıyan reports

Lettuce talk about it

The Yedikule lettuce can no longer be grown in its place of origin, the Yedikule Gardens

IWI MEMBERS GET 25% OFF!That’s 12 issues for the price of 9 - only 45 TL!Every month, your Time Out will be filled with features on citywide happenings, restaurant and café reviews, daily concert, event and exhibition listings, shopping hotspots, expat tips, travel destinations, celebrity interviews and all you want (and need) to know about what’s going on in your city. Time Out Istanbul in English – Know More. Do More.Subscribe today by contacting us at (0212) 287-1990 or gizem@timeoutistanbul.com, or by visiting www.timeout.com/istanbul

SPONSORED ARTICLE SPONSORED ARTICLE

32

D ON’T BE FOOLED BY the current state of the Theodosian Walls. These ancient walls, which remained impregnable from the 5th through 15th centuries, are

actually the site of one of the most important battlefields in history. But what makes the city walls a trending topic these days has nothing to do with the sieges and earthquakes it encountered: it ’s the urban gardens, called bostans, within those walls. By all accounts, the bostans of old Istanbul emanated a fresh, clean scent – in fact, the name bostan

comes from the Persian words “bu,” meaning “fragrance,” and “stan,” meaning “place.” These gardens once served as the scene of contests to pick the best vegetables, and Istanbulites would even spend time and enjoy picnics here.

The Yedikule Gardens have been an urban agricultural zone for over 1,500 years, but today a large number of them are face-to-face with the threat of destruction. In recent years there’s been an ongoing struggle between growers and authorities as parts of the gardens are being filled with rubble

and the gardeners’ sheds are being torn down and paved with gravel. Despite all of these destructive forces at play, Slow Food Turkey and the Initiative to Protect the Yedikule Gardens have rolled up their sleeves to generate some much-needed discussion about Istanbul’s nearly extinct “oily” Yedikule lettuce by organizing the Lettuce Festival, first in 2015 and again in May 2016.

Given the current state of the Yedikule Gardens, the crop was harvested in Gümüşdere, Sarıyer, for this year’s Festival. For a crop whose weight once reached 7kg per head of lettuce, this year’s yield of 2kg at most might not seem all that impressive, but keep in mind that this is the first time

Istanbulites have tasted authentic Yedikule lettuce in years (the smaller variety sold in manavs around town as Yedikule lettuce actually comes from Antalya). The Lettuce Festival itself might have been the perfect way to greet spring while raising awareness among Istanbulites and connecting them to their past, but for its organizers, it doesn’t change the fact that the future of the historic Yedikule Gardens – which aren’t protected by UNESCO despite being located within the Theodosian Walls recognized as a World Heritage Site – remains uncertain. Perhaps their only hope now is for the UNESCO World Heritage Committee to discuss the fate of the Yedikule Gardens during their meeting in Istanbul in June.

The Yedikule Lettuce Festival in May reintroduced Istanbulites to a piece of living history with an uncertain future, Jbid Boyacıyan reports

Lettuce talk about it

The Yedikule lettuce can no longer be grown in its place of origin, the Yedikule Gardens

IWI MEMBERS GET 25% OFF!That’s 12 issues for the price of 9 - only 45 TL!Every month, your Time Out will be filled with features on citywide happenings, restaurant and café reviews, daily concert, event and exhibition listings, shopping hotspots, expat tips, travel destinations, celebrity interviews and all you want (and need) to know about what’s going on in your city. Time Out Istanbul in English – Know More. Do More.Subscribe today by contacting us at (0212) 287-1990 or gizem@timeoutistanbul.com, or by visiting www.timeout.com/istanbul

SPONSORED ARTICLE SPONSORED ARTICLE

33

A petroleum engineer by trade, Anna Ilhan has turned her skills to helping expat women find friendships in a new place through her platform, The Dame Drum. She is also the new chairwoman of the IWI. Nina Lister met her to talk about life in Istanbul and her vision for the future of the IWI FE

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LALE INTERVIEW

When Anna Ilhan uprooted her very American life in Denver, Colorado to follow her Turkish husband to Ankara, she came in for something of a culture

shock. The couple had been married for 11 years – all of which were spent in the US – when her husband received a new job opportunity and the incentive to return to his home country five years ago. “We started off in Ankara,” says Anna. “And I tell everyone now that I am pretty sure I went crazy. Socially, Ankara was tough.”

Life has been easier since she moved to Istanbul two years ago and found more kindred spirits. But her somewhat isolating experience in Ankara has spurred her on to help support other expat women in Turkey, both with her online friendship and networking platform, The Dame Drum, and her work with International Women of Istanbul. So much so, in fact, that Anna will take over as the organisation’s chairwoman from the start of the 2016/2017 season in September.

We talked to her about her plans for the IWI, her life as an expat woman in Turkey and how she hopes to help others in the same boat.

What brought you to Turkey?My husband is Turkish. We met and married in the US and had been married for 11 years before we moved to Turkey and we have been here for nearly five years now – three in Ankara and two in Istanbul. My husband had lived in the US for 28 years – he is essentially an American with Turkish heritage but he is also an only child and we always thought we would at least part-time retire here. When he got a job opportunity in Turkey which fulfilled his needs for his career projection, we decided to move.

I don’t know how long we will stay – I don’t know what will happen next week, let alone in five years’ time at the moment – but we have invested both economically and mentally in Turkey now and we own our own home here.

How easy was the move for you?We started off in Ankara. I tell everyone now that I am pretty sure I went crazy. Socially it was tough. There are a lot of diplomatic expats living there, but they very much stick together. The Turks who live there mostly grew up there and, while they are very welcoming, they will not necessarily see you as their closest friend. I did make some good friends there, but the majority of my support network has grown

since we moved to Istanbul two years ago - something I am very glad of. It was hard to separate from family. I am very close to my father and we speak on a regular basis. He has been very supportive of our move and has been over twice, which is not bad for an 80-year-old!

How easy has it been to continue your own career?Professionally, I am a petroleum engineer and I come from a family of engineers. Then I found myself in Ankara, a housewife. It was a major shock. I had not realised how much of my identity was tied up in my career – and I quickly figured that one out. So, I started my own company specialising in shale gas and “unconventional reservoirs” which had become popular in Turkey. My company offered advice to clients in Turkey who wanted to work with foreign partners with the know-how to exploit such reserves.

At first, I found some clients here and partners overseas from Europe, Australia and North America to work on projects in Turkey but after some time it became apparent that Turkey is now seen as a high-risk place to invest. For me, I was not getting enough of a return for my own time investment.

So, when my husband’s job changed again, it was an opportunity for us to move here. So we moved and bought an apartment in Nişantaşı, although I and my British Bulldog, Ati, lived in the Hilton for six weeks while the apartment was being redeveloped. Ati loves cucumbers and the hotel staff brought him a lot of them. I spent that time working with the architect.

At the IWI Summer Fun Day fundraiser with the Events Team

35

LALE INTERVIEW

Tell us about your new venture, The Dame DrumMy close friend of 15 years, Marnie, was living in the Netherlands at the time I was moving to Istanbul and going through a divorce. So she came out to Istanbul and spent 10 days at the Hilton with me, regrouping. When she went back and moved out, she started to wonder how on earth to meet people and wondered why there was no website to connect with other women. So she proposed The Dame Drum to me. She is a business administrator and I am an engineer – neither of us had any experience of IT or social media. So we had to learn. Fast. It was a steep learning curve; practically a vertical line up.

But, 10 months after first proposing the idea, we launched our site, The Dame Drum. The drum is a symbol of empowerment and the idea is to connect women. It is a very simple idea. A lot of women just want someone to have coffee with, to go to the gym with, someone who knows the area they have just moved to – not necessarily a new country; it could just be a new city or state – and can provide a bit of moral support. When Marnie was getting divorced, she really just wanted a friend.

This is quite a departure from your old professionYes, but I have a degree in Art before I did engineering, so I am now tapping into my creative side – I am also a painter. Mind you, you have to be creative in petroleum engineering, especially when it comes to trouble-shooting, when drilling goes wrong. You may just need to adjust the drilling depth or you might have to work something out with the landowner – you have to be able to think outside the box. It’s not all in the textbook.

The IWI has changed a great deal in the past year The previous chairwoman, Stephanie Machoi, has done an extraordinary job over the past year. She set her mind to achieving certain milestones and she has done that. In the main, she has moved the organisation towards more of a networking platform that is much more dynamic and more focused on the real lives of expat women today instead of 30 years ago. If we want to gain and retain members, we have to focus on their actual needs.

I was brought in by Stephanie to focus on the social media side of things and, in my opinion, this was something which had been completely neglected. There was no strategy at all, the website was not efficient and the Facebook group had no structured purpose. We have streamlined a lot of this now – for example we closed the Facebook group, keeping just the official members’ Facebook page. And, while it is still limited, we have made the website much more user-friendly. We are using Wild Apricot now, which is good, but we could do with some more expertise in coding to add more widgets and gadgets.

How will you build on this momentum?Over the past six months our new vice chairwoman, Karen Yarnold, has been working on documenting all the processes and finding ways to optimise the way things work. We recognised that there were some serious gaps and we will continue to work on and document these. Karen is a professional project manager and she is particularly good at the micro stuff, so we complement each other very well. We also both have the same dedication to the organisation.

So, the IWI has changed. I think members will see the changes and we will see much stronger membership retention this year. Over the past year, the organisation has really gone through the start of a rebranding from a housewife institution. I am not saying we have achieved everything – the majority of our programmes still take place during the day but we are trying to re-establish Istabul@Night and have more in the evening. The image of the IWI is changing and I want to build on the momentum.

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What plans do you have and what is your vision for the IWI as the new chairwoman?It is very healthy for any organisation to have change and to bring fresh ideas and thoughts to the top. In the future, I would like to work with Erasmus students to help us with communications with the members and other non-profits. A lot of them speak Turkish which would help with communicating with our grantees. It could definitely be a win-win situation to bring in fresh blood and help young women who want to expand their knowledge and experience.

Two of our current interns – Ayla and Laila – have been working on a fabulous project this year to document the history of the IWI. They have been trawling through old issues of Lale magazine and talking to long-standing members. It is really fascinating – such as when the IWI mobilised into a relief organisation when the earthquake happened in the 1990s. They have been posting interesting stories on Facebook and are currently using an online platform to display it all.

We also want to work on developing and strengthening our brand and we need to bring IPWIN, our business-networking arm, much more centrally into the organisation to attract more professional members. There are a lot of foreign women here who are working full time. We also need to tap more into the Turkish side of life in Istanbul and I believe it would be advantageous to start allowing Turkish women with significant international experience to join the IWI.

I have met some of my closest friends through IWI who are a part of my amazing network here in Istanbul and I really want to give something back. One of the strengths of the IWI that I really want to focus on are the talents of our members and helping our members find an answer to the question “where do I fit in?” Most women these days need to keep their CVs filled in – some may even be breadwinners at some time in the future. IWI needs to be more than just a social group; but also an avenue for some women to stay current with their professional skills or learn additional ones. That model is very strong and certainly lives up to our motto, “From Women, For Women”.

Opposite page top: At this year’s end-of-season summer lunch with fellow Board members Jeanette von Alvensleben-Niethammer, Karen Yarnold, Leen Saket, Fiona Slay, Nina Lister, Ayşe Yücel and Merle Klehn

Below: Anna’s beloved pups (“My boys”), Ati and Bobby

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BOMONTI IN IMAGES At the top of the hill in Bomonti, Şişli, surrounded by newly built high-rise ivory towers, stands the Fransız Fakirhanesi, an order of nuns that has been tirelessly caring for the impoverished elderly of Istanbul since 1892. Julia Forsman portrays this extraordinary example of dedication and devotion

PHOTOGRAPHY: JULIA FORSMAN

Bomonti Fransız Fakirhanesi is the IWI’s longest-standing grantee. A home for the poor elderly of Istanbul, it is run by the Little Sisters

of the Poor. The residence, located in Bomonti, Şişli, is home to around 70 elderly residents. The home is currently undertaking a massive renovation project to upgrade its facilities to European standards as required by the Turkish government. It is urgently seeking funds to finance this.

LALE ISTANBUL

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LALE ISTANBUL

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LALE ISTANBUL

HAVEN AT THE

Crammed between both old and new architecture in Beyoğlu is the Pera Palace Hotel, which once stood alone at the top of the hill waiting to receive passengers from the Orient Express. Lale took a tour of this historical jewel at the heart of Istanbul

FEATURE: NINA LISTER. PHOTOGRAPHY: KAMILA BAKIRHAN AND COURTESY OF JUMEIRAH

HEART OF ISTANBUL

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When high society travellers from Europe and America arrived fresh off the Orient Express in Istanbul in the late 19th Century, the Pera Palace Hotel was

ready and waiting. Until then, Constantinople had been largely regarded as a down-in-the-mouth destination for backpackers, but with the opening of the luxury Orient Express train line from Paris in 1889, that was all to change. Aristocrats, wealthy celebrities and the literarti of Western Europe and North America began to discover the charms of Ottoman society with its Bosphorus backdrop and glorious architecture.

The Pera Palace was built in 1892 as the city’s first luxury hotel to accommodate these new travellers in Pera, the highly multicultural home of foreign embassies and then largely populated by Levantine Christians, Greeks, Armenians and Jews. The word “pera” is Ancient Greek for “other side”, hence the name for the area which stands across the Golden Horn from the ancient city. When passengers arrived at the Orient Express station in Sirkeci, they mounted a bus to take them across the Golden Horn from where they would be carried up the hill to Pera in true Ottoman style by sedan chair, one of which is on display in the hotel alongside an original cash register from the hotel.

Many famous guests made their home-from-home at the Pera Palace while visiting Istanbul during the early 20th Century, including Agatha Christie, Ernest Hemingway, Ian Fleming and Paul Theroux. Greta Garbo, Alfred Hitchcock, Jackie Onassis and Kemal Atatürk were also guests. It is thought that the architect of the hotel, French-Ottoman Alexander Vallaury based his design on the Grand Hotel Terminus, Saint-Lazarre, Paris, but with a twist to give the hotel its own personalised, East-meets-West, Ottoman-meets-Art-Deco style where Islamic features were mixed with neo-Renaissance motifs.

These days, since a €23 million restoration project which began in 2010, the hotel is every bit as grand as during its heyday, from its gilded ceiling right down to the more-than-600 antiques, including a superb 6,000-piece silverware set (including 3,910 pieces made by Christofle) which was discovered during the renovations in a locked cupboard, where it had been gathering dust for at least 50 years. This set had been used in the Grand Salle à Manger and transported back and forth on the Orient Express to safeguard it from bandits roaming the wilds of Eastern Europe. Pieces from the set are now in use in the hotel’s Agatha Restaurant as well as in the Patisserie and the Kubbeli Lounge.

LALE ARCHITECTURE

Opposite page top: The exquisitely renovated ceiling of the Kubbeli Lounge, named for the domes - kubbe in Arabic - which let in light to the room

Opposite page below: A detail from the ceiling of the Grand Ballroom

Above: The grand entrance to the hote, which is now part of the Jumeirah Group of hotels following a €23 million refurbishmentRight: The popular French-style Patisserie on the ground floorBelow: Furnishings within the pink and green Greta Garbo Suite

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INTO THE PASTSteps leading up from the lobby of the hotel bring visitors to the Kubbeli Lounge, with its sumptuous furnishings and magnificent domed ceiling. The Arabic word, “kubbe”, means “dome” and it is from this that the room takes its name. The six domes in the ceiling are studded with glass circles which soften the light within the room. The domes were able to be opened on hinges in the summer to provide a breeze in the days before air conditioning. Two enormous chandeliers also adorn the ceiling, hanging in contrast to the Islamic-style windows of the first floor above. Here, during the hotel’s belle epoch, a sumptuous English tea would be served at a central table while jazz music was performed in the background. In 2013, this room was renovated by designer Anouska Hampel with burgundy, black and gold features which give a majestic feel to this space.

Beyond the Kubbeli Lounge are the Library Room – a nod to the literary credentials of the hotel – and the Orient Bar. The Library houses the works of many of those authors who regularly stayed at the Pera Palace, while the Orient Bar has been designed by Anouska Hampel to recreate the era in which Ernest Hemingway et al quaffed cocktails and gathered inspiration.

From here, the Grand Ballroom is accessed via a thick set of velvet curtains. Originally, this was the Grand Salle à Manger. To celebrate the founding of the Turkish Republic, this room

was used for the first Republic Day Ball, hence the change of name. The switch to the Western calendar was marked at midnight of December 31 as 1923 turned into 1924 in this room, while Turkey’s first-ever fashion show was held here in 1926. Original features, such as the ornate ceiling roses and sculpted garlands can be seen here, as well as the magnificent chandelier.

TOUCHES OF HISTORYSeveral features make the hotel utterly unique. One is the original elevator which still functions. This was the second elevator in Europe, after the one in the Eiffel Tower. The box of the elevator is known as the “Queen of the Pera Palace”.

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It is surrounded by the grand staircase with its noticeable shallow steps – designed this way to enable ladies in their ball gowns to “glide” down as elegantly as possible.

On the first floor of the hotel is the Atatürk Museum Room. Room 101 was reserved for him and he stayed here, often for months at a time, between 1915 and 1937. The room has been kept as it was when Atatürk stayed here and visitors can even view some of his possessions here, from his Panama hat to his mother-of-pearl domino sets.

Next for visitors to view is the Agatha Christie room – number 411 – where she is believed to have written one of her most famous mysteries, Murder on the Orient Express. This room has been wrapped in mystery since a psychic discovered a key under the floor boards which many believe may unlock a diary revealing the events of the lost 11 days when Christie disappeared in 1926 – a theory examined in a film starring Dustin Hoffman and Vanessa Redgrave.

Visitors can also explore Ernest Hemingway’s rooms at the Pera Palace, which have been decorated in blue and brown

to represent his love of the sea and fine cigars. Hemingway stayed here while he was reporting on the Turkish War of Independence. The French author, Pierre Loti, also stayed here and his suites, which overlook the Petit Champs can be viewed, as can the pink-and-green rooms used by Greta Garbo when she stayed here for 50 days to shoot a film entitled The Odalisk from Smolensk. Other historical suites on display are those used by Ismet Inönü and Celal Bayar, the two presidents to follow Atatürk, decorated in copper, purple and gold; and the King Edward VIII and Emperor Franz Joseph suites.

Opposite page top: The stunning Kubbeli Lounge where a sumptuous English tea was served daily during the hotel’s “Belle Epoch”Opposite page below: A detail from the room where Kemal Atatürk stayed when in residence in Istanbul

Above right: The famous Agatha Christie room where the famous English author stayedAbove: A table in the Grand Ballroom, once named the Grand Salle à Manger, is laid with original silverware used in the hotel in the early 20th CenturyBelow: The foyer at the entrance of the Pera Palace Hotel

LALE ARCHITECTURE

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LALE ARCHITECTURE

Opposite page: The iconic, original elevator at the Pera Palace. This was the second hotel elevator ever in Europe and still functions

Above: The upper corridors of the hotel

Above: The Library Room, named for the many literary greats who frequented the hotel during the early 20th Century. This room houses many of their works

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SAILING WITHFEATURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY: KAREN YARNOLD

Karen Yarnold and her husband, Paul, decided to take the plunge and learn to sail while they live so close to the Marmara Sea. She highlights the heady highs and sodden lows of two three-day trips around the Princes Islands

Heave ho me hearties”. “Splice the main brace”. “Shiver me timbers”. To be honest, up until the start of April 2016 I didn’t have a clue about sailing. Never even

heard of “Competent Crew” much less a “Day Skipper”. My husband, Paul, had always talked about us learning to sail but I always silently responded with a “yeah yeah, keep dreaming”.

Then we found Meerkat Sailing Club – a very cutely named place at West Istanbul Marina, set up and managed by three Turkish Airlines Pilots. I guess pilots have a reputation for fast cars, fast boats, fast bikes, etc. So why not open a sailing club? So Paul the pilot and I trotted down there one afternoon with our friends Bob and Fiona to see what the

score was. And six weeks later, found ourselves hiring a 37ft yacht, for the weekend, followed by Paul and me booking onto a Competent Crew course less than a week later. Talk about getting an overdose of sailing training!

I knew nothing about boats, and had always had a vision of calm sailing, stopping off in several ports, drinking beer by day and G&Ts at night, and being captained by Jack Sparrow. Yeah yeah, keep dreaming. What actually happened was this: We sailed around the Princes Islands about seven times, weren’t allowed to crack open the beers until the last mooring at night, I got Captain Alex Cockshott instead of Captain Jack Sparrow, and he drank all my gin (or at least helped me).

For anyone interested in sailing, who doesn’t have time to go off to southern Turkey, or the Greek islands, what I am going to describe might be a solution for you. Meerkat Sailing Club has recently become an RYA (Royal Yacht Association) accredited site and now offers Competent Crew and Day Skipper courses, as well as dinghy sailing and power-boating. I must say, they’ve got some decent hardware in their marina. We started the Competent Crew with two separate days in smaller keel boats, followed by a three-day, three-night session on a 32ft yacht. We are still to do the five-day Day Skipper training, but Captain Alex tells us that we have already started to get some of the skills for that, so it should be relatively easy. Yeah yeah, keep dreaming.

First there was the three-night “holiday” with Bob and Fiona. Both have done a lot of sailing over the years and were keen

PRINCES

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LALE TRAVEL

to teach us all they know. Paul couldn’t get the four days off work, just two, so Fiona hatched a plan of just going to the Princes Islands so that Paul could take the ferry from Yeşilköy and meet us somewhere. That part of the plan worked really well.

We almost fell over at the first hurdle, though, when, at the 11th hour before departing, Meerkat hit some red tape and couldn’t get the insurance in time. Captain Alex Cockshott to the rescue! He secured us an even bigger yacht from a Meerkat associate, on the proviso that he came with us as assurance of the safety of the boat. So now we were getting two captains on board, a very capable bosun, and one completely incompetent crew. I suspected this was going to be like three chiefs and one Hiawatha.

By the time we reached the back of Büyükada for a late lunch, my head was swimming. I’d learned about main sails, halyards, genoas, reefs, clutches, and a whole lot more. And I was threatened with something called keel-hauling several times for insubordination. But I took no notice; they needed a lacky on board to do all the work. I wasn’t going to be much use to them if I was injured was I?

We had some great night-time moorings. Night one was “at anchor” in a small bay around the headland of Büyükada, with dinner on board under a great sunset. Night two was “going alongside” a rather large fishing boat off Heybeliada. We had to climb over our neighbouring vessel to get to dry land for a few beers, after yet another gourmet meal on board. Just as well Captain Bob and Bosun Fiona stayed on board the next morning Captain Alex and I went for a walk to the top of one of the hills on Heybeliada, only to come back to find our neighbour had gone. We can only hope that they would have untied us, and retied us to the mooring had our boat been empty. Night three was spent “stern to” outside a restaurant in Bürgazada – but of course we had to partake of their fine local fare (with wine) in lieu of mooring fees. It’s a tough life.

Paul arrived on the second morning on the 10:30am ferry from Yeşilköy. A little aside here – Yeşilköy is really the centre of the universe in Istanbul. It has everything one would ever need in life, including daily ferries to the Princes Islands. Yeah yeah, keep dreaming.

That last mooring was an interesting one. I had been warned that Turkish people can be very “helpful” at harbours. And they were. There were five young guys on board tying us to buoys, other boats and the harbour wall. It was bedlam. What else could I do but crack open a beer and sit and watch? Captain Alex and Captain Bob went around after them and rearranged all their “good” work while I looked on.

So that was the end of the first three days and nights. But I can’t move on without mentioning the excellent victualling done by Fiona. Roast chicken and salad, beef casserole and rice, chocolate pudding to name but a few. A very impressive shopping trip, which really set the bar for the following weekend when it would be my turn.

Opposite page above: A gorgeous sunset while “at anchor” off Büyükada

Opposite page below: Heavenly Heybeliada

Above: Our first 37ft rental yacht

Left: Genoa in full sail

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And now on to the second weekend in a row, following four nights on dry land where the room kept swaying a few times in the first few days. And I didn’t even need a bottle of wine to feel it. Weird feeling. Captain Alex (and his lovely wife Lynn) picked us up at 5pm at Yeşilköy Marina as I was a late starter

due to the IWI AGM being earlier that day. That was some kudos as we stepped onto a 32ft yacht and motored away into the impending sunset.

And what a yacht it was. We were the first clients to take this beauty out. A 32ft Baviara called Çağlar. Two berths, a very comfortable seating area “down below” and a great dining table “on the deck”. The boat was great for two or three clients to go on a course, a perfect size for beginners and very nicely kitted out too.

Anyway, it looked good, but you might have picked up that we motored and there never was a sunset. And so began a day and a half of being pretty wet and miserable. Now, Paul and I are very experienced hill walkers and cyclists. We have all the wet weather gear under our spare bed – loads of the stuff. However, there it stayed. It had been so hot the previous weekend that we just packed the same things that we wore then. One of our biggest lessons – and we should have known better – is always, always pack wet weather gear.

Better still, invest in something called foulies. Still, at least we had plenty of practice of handling a boat in rougher water, “helming” when the wind and rain are lashing into one’s face, and “navigating” in poor visibility.

Night one was fun too. We picked up a buoy in a bay off Bürgazada (I said “buoy”, not “boyo”) – which made for our fourth different type of mooring in eight days. Of course, nothing is free in life, and we had to eat at the restaurant affiliated with the “tender” that picked us up and took us to dry land. I was ready for them this time though – we refused to pay the inflated wine prices and sank some bottles back on the boat later. (Not literally “sank” of course, because dropping rubbish overboard is an absolute no-no.) Captain Alex apparently kept waking with the sudden wave movement, but Paul and I slept like babies. Looks like we will have to develop a better sense of responsibility when it comes to being Day Skippers.

Top: Looking towards Istanbul after a very wet day

Above left: Captain Paul’s detailed log book

Above: The very well-appointed cabin inside the 32ft Çağlar

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Day three was hard work. The wind was perfect, the sun was blazing, and Captain Alex worked us like dogs. A lot of it was about recognising wind direction, and knowing when to “tack” and “jibe”. I’m still not sure I know about wind exactly, and I did resort to Captain Bob’s jokey approach of wetting both ears, looking into the wind, and when both are cold that’s the way of telling the direction. I’m sure there are cleverer methods, but that one is fun.

But Night three was when my victualling skills came to the fore. I made a full roast chicken dinner for four (roast potatoes but no Yorkshire puds) in the “galley”, all while “at anchor” in a rocking boat. Lynn did offer to cook but I really felt the need to achieve something I knew about – with confidence and no teaching required. That’s the first time I’ve seen cooking a roast dinner as a relaxation technique.

And that was our crash-course-in-sailing story. With the help of experienced sailing friends, a booking with Meerkat Sailing Club, and the wonderful teachings of the very qualified RYA instructor, Alex Cockshott, we are now officially Competent Crew. Bring on the Day Skipper course – but perhaps in a few months time.

For more information contact www.meerkatboatclub.com, or find them on Facebook.

Top: Karen braves the elements at the helm

Rİght: Bürgazada in bloom

LALE TRAVEL

LALE EVENTS

BOSPHORUS DIP AND DINE

The IWI has organised some legendary summer boat trips over the last few years, and we’re going to keep the winning formula going this year. When the weather is hot and nothing seems to be going on in the city, join with friends old and new for a private sea-borne excursion to enjoy the Bosphoros at our leisure.

We will join our own private hire boat at either Kandili (Asia) or Tarabya (Europe) iskele in the morning, and sail up towards the Black Sea where you can view the impressive third bridge. Please confirm which point you wish to join at when you make your reservation. At lunchtime, we will share the contributions of the participants, so please bring along a dish of your choice. Tea and water will be provided with the tour.

After lunch, we will have the opportunity to take a leisurely swim in the warm waters of a secluded corner of our iconic waterway, or just sunbathe in style on the deck of the boat. There will be a changing area and simple shower facilities available on board.

On the trip back, we will pass by some of the most famous buildings on the shoreline, providing some fabulous, close-up views of this wonderful city and its iconic architecture.

Don’t miss out! This is a fun day out, a chance to let your hair down, top up your suntan, and glide along as we enjoy each other’s company.

Date Thursday, July 28Time 10.00am – 10.30am; to be confirmed

to participantsLocation Kandili or Tarabya IskelesiCost 70TLParticipants Minimum 18, maximum 30Registration Online at www.iwi-tr.org by

Wednesday, July 20Contact programs@iwi-tr.org

EBRU WORKSHOP

Listed with UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, Ebru is the traditional Turkish art of creating colourful patterns by sprinkling and brushing colour pigments onto a pan of oily water and then transferring the patterns to paper. This is a very unusual art form, using special tools and materials including brushes of horsehair bound to straight rose twigs, a tray, natural earth pigments, cattle gall and tragacanth.

The art of Ebru is believed to have been invented in the 13th Century. Seljuk and Ottoman calligraphers and artists used marbling to decorate imperial decrees, official correspondence and documents. It is often used as a background writing surface for calligraphy, and especially for

book covers and endpapers in bookbinding. Part of its appeal is that each print is a unique monotype.

This workshop will be a learning experience, in which you will become acquainted with the art of Ebru, and produce your own Ebru artwork. You will learn, from an expert artisan, how to make Turkish Ebru art using traditional techniques, practice different techniques and understand the secret of rich patterns to create your own style. The IWI has partnered with a leading Turkish culture and travel company in Istanbul to bring you this exclusive workshop. This is a great opportunity to understand the processes that go into making the beautiful pieces that you see in local bazaars, and to bring out your creativity by giving it a try yourself. A truly Turkish experience, and one that we are sure will be unforgettable.

Date Thursday, August 11Time 10.30amLocation Cihangir, BeyoğluCost Classic, Business and Honorary members

– 70 TL Basic members – 75 TL Guests – 80 TL

Participants Minimum 5, maximum 15Registration Online at iwi-tr.org by Friday, August 5

Contact programs@iwi-tr.org

LALE EVENTS

ALL ROLES ARE VOLUNTARY

MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONSA Board position which requires previous experience in marketing and a good working knowledge of communication tools such as Facebook, Twitter, websites etc. You must be able to lead a team and work with the board to ensure good communications in the right format.

DIGITAL MEDIA & WEBSITE ASSISTANTA non-Board position requiring good technical knowledge of communication tools such as Facebook, Twitter, websites etc. You will work with the Marketing & Communications Coordinator to ensure that all IWI social media tools are kept up to date, in a professional and clear manner.

ADVERTISING ASSISTANT A non-Board position which involves working closely with the Advertising & Sponsorship Coordinator to seek advertisers for Lale magazine and the IWI newsletters. Sales experience is not necessary but good communication skills and an ability to work with clients face-to-face would be a plus.

Have you got vital skills you could be sharing with us? If so, we want to hear from you. We have the following positions available on the board or supporting the board. All enquiries to chairwoman@iwi-tr.org

JOIN THE IWI BOARD & TEAMS

IWI BOARD

SPONSORSHIP ASSISTANTA non-Board position which involves working closely with the Advertising & Sponsorship Coordinator to seek sponsors for IWI in general as well as for specific events and programmes. Sales experience is not necessary but good communiction skılls and an ability to work with clients face-to-face a plus.

LALE DEPUTY EDITORA non-Board position which involves working closely with the editor of Lale magazine, the bi-monthly publication of the IWI. You will help plan, contribute to and produce each issue of Lale. Work is flexible, but you will need to be available on the third week of every second month to help with production.

MUMS ‘N KIDSCOORDINATOR A non-Board position which involves working closely with the Schools Liaison Coordinator to guide and support current IWI Mums ‘n Kids group leaders, as well as organising some events yourself. Good organisational skills. This is a role that can make a real difference to the profile of the IWI.

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IWI NEWCOMERS

We hold newcomer coffee meetings every month at Zamane Kahvesi in Bostancı. For more information, contact Gabriele Sailer: 0546 234 2835.

ARE YOU A NEWCOMER?IWI holds get-togethers over coffee to welcome newcomers every month on both the Asian and European sides of the cityASIAN SIDE COFFEE EUROPEAN SIDE COFFEE

We hold newcomer coffee mornings every month at The House Cafe, Istinye Park. For more information, please contact Ayşe Yücel: 0532 356 3843.

AREA COORDINATOR CONTACT

Area A/C/F Etiler, Akatlar, Ulus, Beşiktaş, Levent Lale Bryce lalebark@yahoo.com

Area B/J Tarabya, Sarıyer, Büyükdere, Zekeriyaköy, Kilyos, Uskumruköy Szilvia Nagy szilviaboldva@gmail.com

Area D Arnavutköy, Bebek, Rumeli Hisarı, Baltalimanı Position Available

Area E Ortaköy, Levazım, Balmumcu Wendy Serter wserter@gmail.com

Area G/L

Nişantaşı, Osmanbey, Şişli/Fulya, Gayrettepe, Esentepe, Tepebaşı, Teşvikiye, Maçka, Beyoğlu, Taksim/Tünel, Sultanahmet, Harbiye , Fatih, Gümüşsuyu/Eyüp, Cihangir/ Topağacı, Gaziosmanpaşa/Kabataş

Anna Mozejko mozziequilts@hotmail.com

Area H/I Yeniköy, İstinye , Maslak, Reşitpaşa, Emirgan Szilvia Nagy szilviaboldva@gmail.com

Area K Kemer, Göktürk Tammy Ni tni3978@gmail.com

Area M Maltepe, Kadıköy/Üsküdar, Moda, Ataşehir, Kartal, Ömerli, Kücükyalı, Salacak, Tuzla To be confirmed

Area O Ümraniye, Çekmeköy, Beykoz, Çengelköy, Anadolu Hisarı, Beylerbeyi, Kanlıca , Kandilli, Polonezköy, Kavacık

To be confirmed

Area P

Büyükçekmece , Küçükçekmece, Hadımköy, Bakırköy, Ataköy, Yeşilköy, Yeşilyurt, Bahçeköy/Bahçelievler, Güneşli, Yenibosna, Beylikdüzü, Halkalı, Bahçeşehir, Bağcılar, Esenyurt, Küçükköy

Karen Yarnold karenyarnold2@gmail.com

Area Y

Caddebostan, Fenerbahçe, Erenköy, Kalamış, Suadiye, Valideçeşme, Göztepe , Bakkalköy, Çiftehavuzlar, Şaşkınbakkal, Küçükbakkalköy, Bostancı

Gabriele Sailer gsailer@paradisefruit.eu

Each month your NCM Local Coordinator will arrange a meet-up in your area, usually in the second week of the month. This is a chance to connect with people in your area and see what the IWI has to offer. We are currently looking for enthusiastic and organised ladies to fill three positions in Areas D, M and O.

Being an NCM Coordinator involves arranging the meet-up, passing on information about IWI (which you will receive from the overall NCM Coordinator, Maria Eroğlu), encouraging attendance at various IWI events, and generally making people feel welcome.

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IWI GROUPS

These playgroups are free of charge for IWI members. This is an opportunity to meet other parents of infants or toddlers, as well as share the joys and trials of motherhood while creating a support network. Please contact the Mums ‘n Kids Coordinator at mumsnkids@iwi-tr.org if you have any questions or suggestions. To join a playgroup, please go to IWI’s website and visit the Mums ‘n Kids page under the Members’ Section for the coordinators’ email addresses. The coordinators will add you to the group’s mailing list to keep you updated about future events.

Pregnant and infants (0-12 months)Usual meeting day/time: Tuesday, 11am-1pmCoordinator: Stephanie Ketterer Walkers – Younger Toddlers (1-2 years)Usual meeting day/time: Tuesday, 10am-12pmCoordinator: Joanna Hochhold: joannahochhold@gmail.com Toddlers (2+)Usual meeting day/time: Tuesday, 10am-12pmCoordinator: VOLUNTEER NEEDEDAsian Side Playgroup (for all ages) Usual meeting day/time: MondaysCoordinator: Lilian Hasenpusch

OTHER ACTIVITIES AND PROVIDERS

Bosphorus International Pre-School, Emirgan

Teacher-organised activity, song and circle time, garden play (weather-permitting). Coffee, tea, milk and cookies provided.When: TuesdaysTime: 10am-11.30amCost: FREEAge group: 0-3 years

Please contact Ms Collette Laffan-Persembe at preschool@bipschool.net or telephone at 0212 277 8444.

*Note: please call on Mondays to reserve. There are only 10 openings every week. Please only ONE known adult per child.www.bipschool.net.

British International School, Zekeriyaköy and Etiler

Indoor and outdoor play (weather-permitting), followed by snack and music time. A known adult must stay and supervise the child.

Zekeriyaköy (Tuesdays and Fridays) / Etiler (Wednesdays and Fridays)Time: 9am-11am (both campuses)Cost: 10TL per sessionAge: 0-2.5 years of age

Please contact Mrs Amanda Ilhan, Preschool and Primary Deputy Director at amandailhan@bis.k12.tr or telephone at 0212 202 7027 ext 116www.bis.k12.tr.

Eden’s Garden International Preschool, Yeniköy, Istanbul

Baby Ballet Playgroup for Boys and Girls

When: ThursdaysTime: 9:30am-11:30am Cost: 30TL per session, (no block-booking required)Age: 0-3 yearsWhere: Ballet Studio, Eden’s Garden International Preschool, Güzelce Ali Paşa Cad. No. 50, Yeniköy, İstanbulBring: Soft slippers for little feet

Please contact Karen Holyoak Çiftçi, Director at director@edensgardenpreschool.com or telephone 0212 262 4302www.edensgardenpreschool.com.

MUMS ’N KIDS

MEETINGS AND PLAYGROUPSIWI has weekly playgroups organised according to children’s ages. These are usually hosted by our members at their homes, meet-ups at parks or walks along the Bosphorus coast

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Hotpot Café - Şişli, IstanbulMerkez Mah. Perihan Sk. Erbil Apt. No 71-73B, Şişli – IstanbulLocated centrally in Şişli, with just a short walk from the metro station, Hotpot café offers playgroups (baby/toddler), yoga (prenatal, yoga, adults), dance and drama classes and other fun activities for both kids and mums.

There is a 10% discount for IWI members. Please present your IWI membership card to claim.

Please contact Melissa at info@hotpot.web.tr or telephone 0212 343 5353. www.hotpot.web.tr

Kindermusik at Play to Learn Pre-SchoolOn the European side in Akatlar, Nişantaşı and Koç University Rumelifeneri Campus and on the Asian side in Ataşehir, offering different music classes.

My Time Programme: 18-30 monthsABC, Music and Me Programme: 2-4 years of age

Please contact Ms Ozlem Hun at info@playtolearn.com.tr or telephone at 0212 352 3031 or 0532 237 2272. www.playtolearn.com.tr

Full Circle Healing Doula ListThere are doulas on both the European and Asian side. Doulas may be willing to travel to your location. For more detailed information about each doula, and on how a doula can support you, visit www.fullcirclehealing.org.

Do’um Specialising in pregnancy and childbirth, providing education and counselling services to expecting parents and bringing together experts who believe in a natural approach. www.do-um.com

LOLA (Lots of Lovely Art) After-school workshops, toddler art, kinder art, weekend workshops, holiday camps, themed birthday parties.www.lotsoflovelyart.com

Our HouseOur House is located in Cihangir as a center for children and families. The aim of the organization is to generate curiosity, creativity ad awareness for children at all stages of development. www.ourhouse.club

KidsAloud British Culture International Preschool Summer School Age 2-6 and playgroup activitiıesEmirgan, Istanbul, www.ingilizceanaokulu/sariyerSong & Circle Time, Daytime Activities (art, dance, drama, sport, outdoor play)An adult to stay and supervise child

Time: 10:30am - 12:00pm WednesdaysCost: FREE for IWI membersBring: soft slippersWhere: Kids Aloud British Culture Preschool, Emirgan Mah.Şirin Sok. No. 32, Emirgan, IstanbulPlease contact Mrs Sevgi Doğan or Carroll Ibramihov TanTelephone: 0532 361 4427 / 212 229 3776, or sariyer@ingilizceanakoulu.com*Note: please call on Fridays or Mondays to reserve (within the quota)We offer a 50% discount for IWI members for the summer school and 2016 September term.www.ingilizceanaokulu/sariyer

The Mums ’n Kids Team is a volunteer group that organises activities for you and your children to enjoy. Please take

responsibility for your own child’s safety. IWI is not liable for any injury or loss incurred

Fotini Café - Arnavutkoy, BesiktasA café with a playroom dedicated to babies and toddlers up to three years old, Fotini Café is located along the Bosphorus coast and offers a comfortable area for you and your child to unwind and have fun at the same time.

IWI members enjoy a waiver on the 8TL entrance fee to the playroom. Please present your IWI membership card to claim your discount. Please contact Lena at fotinicafe@gmail.com or telephone 0533 093 9992.

Francalaci Cd. No.26, Arnavutkoy, 34345 Istanbul, Turkey www.fotinicafe.com

Gymboree Play and Music15% discount for IWI members on Play and Learn classes in the Ortaköy branch. Please present your IWI membership card to claim your discount.

Gymboree Play and Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0-5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in 30 countries, making Gymboree the global leader in early childhood development programmes.

Designed by experts, the age-appropriate activities help develop the cognitive, physical and social skills of children as they play. The programmes are also recognised for their unique approach to parent involvement, which encourages participation in and understanding of each child’s development.

Cost: 1,020TL for 12 classes (after IWI discount applied)Gymboree members can also enjoy complimentary free-play times during the week. For non-Gymboree members, IWI members these cost 30TL per hour.

School Skills programme (drop-off) for the 2-3 year olds or 3-4 year olds. 10% discount on full-year School Skills programme for IWI members.

Music and Art classes are also available. Limited offer for IWI members: 12 classes for the price of eight. Birthday parties for 1-7 year olds (20% discount for weekday bookings)

Please contact Esra Taşar at esratasar@gymboreeturkey.com or telephone 212 275 8787. www.gymboreeturkey.com

Woodsview International Nursery and Preschool, Tarabya, Istanbul

Mother and Baby Music and Movement. Parents and guardians can come along for fun singing and dancing with their little ones.

When: Mondays and TuesdaysTime: 4.00pm to 5.00pmCost: 30TL per class or 50TL for two classes per weekAge: 6-23 monthsWhere: Woodsview International Nursery and Preschool, Sumer Korusu, Altuncu Sk, No 5, Tarabya, IstanbulPlease contact Maresa Shahnooshi, Teacher and Preschool Coordinator at maresa@woodsviewpreschool.com or by telephone on 0212 299 3906.www.woodsviewpreschool.com

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Alcoholics Anonymous/Al-AnonOpen AA (Alcoholics Anonymous) meetings in English are held in the Union Han building on Istiklal Caddesi, Tünel, next to the Swedish Consulate on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 6.45pm (contact 0533 626 5724 ). There is an Alanon meeting at 6.30pm on Thursdays in the same location. On Sundays, there is an open AA meeting at 4,15pm in Harbiye (contact 0539 606 0123). On the Asian side in Kadikoy, there are meetings at 6pm on Thursdays and at 5.30pm on Saturdays (contact 0537 433 8368). A full listing of all English-speaking AA meetings in Turkey with local contacts can be found on the AA Europe website: www.aa-europe.net

Asian Ladies of IstanbulThe Asian Ladies of Istanbul is a non-profit social group established over 20 years ago for ladies from East Asia living in Istanbul to come together. A members-only Facebook page provıdes news of the monthly lunches, news, events, photographs and useful information. Please contact Kim Cakirkaya at kim.cakirkaya@gmail.com or 0533 463 6930 for further information.

ARIT (American Research Institute of Turkey)The Friends of ARIT Istanbul, with branches in North America and Ankara, was established to support the ARIT in Turkey. The Istanbul Friends run a year-round programme of tours and lectures for members and guests. Membership is open to all interested residents of Istanbul. For further information call 0212 257 8111.

AWl (American Women of Istanbul)AWI is a social network open to Americans, Canadians and spouses of US or Canadian citizens in Istanbul. AWI offers social programmes from special-interest groups to charities. If you’re a newcomer to Istanbul please contact our newcomers committee. Email Debbie Abdo or Sia Israfil at awiistanbul@gmail.com.

Belgian Friends of IstanbulThe Belgian Friends of Istanbul gathers every month for drinks, brunch, dinner, a walk or a cultural activity. We also offer activities such as the annual St Nicholas party for children or New Year’s dinner. Our Facebook page allows members to exchange information about job opportunities, housing, babysitting, Belgian cultural events in Istanbul, where to find Belgian products, etc. Email bfistanbul@gmail.com.

Book Club There are two IWI book clubs. Book Club 1 is currently over-subscribed, but Book Club 2 is open to new members. Contact: Mary Akgüner (Book Club 2) mary.akguner@gmail.com

Boy Scouts/Cub ScoutsThe Boy Scouts and Cub Scouts of America is a youth programme for character development and values-based leadership training. All boys in grades one to five (ages six to 10) holding a foreign passport are welcome to join Cubs. Older boys (ages 11-18) are welcome to join Boy Scouts. Activities include hiking and camping. Email Vicki Gunay graygunay@gmail.com or 0532 314 11 34.

Bridge GroupOur bridge group meets on Fridays at 10.30am - all levels welcome. Playing bridge in our group is a way to spend a pleasant Friday. Please contact Sandra on 212 257 9781 or 0532 483 5319.

C@rmaC@rma is a social initiative promoting dialogue between professionals and NGOs. We have opportunities to volunteer with your specific skills on a pro-bono basis through our platform, www.4carma.com, and we also organise events every two moths at which NGOs can present their activites or brainstorm around their problem with professional volunteers. Our website and activities

are in Turkish and English. For more information, contact info@4carma.com.

CHICAS Spanish Speaking Women of IstanbulA group open to all ladies who speak our language, or would like to practise it. We host lots of fun, hilarious Latin parties and cultural events. We have our own blog: http://chicasestambul.blogspot.com/ and we’re on Facebook under “Chicas Estambul”. Email chicasestambul@yahoo.com.mx or phone Ninoska Gutierrez Sierra 0533 651 3581, Norma Maranges 0532 314 29 34 or Lorena Martinez 0533 388 6309.

CIRCOLO ROMA (Comunità italiana) The Italian Association organises activities, such as cooking classes, dinners, parties, Italian and Turkish conversation classes, piano lessons, zumba, tamurriata, Italian cinema, medieval fencing, painting on porcelain, capoiera, singing and activities for children. The wonderful liberty hall can also be hired for private parties and conferences. Email Paola Maresia Maresia@superonline.com or Elsa Zambonini elsazambonini@yahoo.com, tel 0212 244 17 59 or visit our website info@circoloroma.com.

Die BrueckeDie Bruecke, founded ın 1989, is a platform for the German-speaking community. It is open to everyone who speaks German. Die Bruecke issues a monthly newsletter. Different gatherings, charities, information concerning everyday life, bi-national education, help with bureaucracy and immigration laws in Turkey are covered. Website www.bruecke-istanbul.org, email info@bruecke-istanbul.org.

DNSI - The Dutch School of IstanbulWe provide Dutch language and cultural lessons to students aged between four and 16. Our mainstream programme is for primary and secondary students with at least one parent of Dutch nationality. Our afternoon programme is for students aged four to 13 who are learning Dutch as a foreign language. We also offer a two-week Dutch summer school. Please check our website www.dnsi.org or email directeur@dnsi.org.

Fransız Fakirhanesi – Little Sisters of the PoorEmail Mother Mary psdptr@gmail.com or phone 0212 296 4608.

FOCI (Friends of Contemporary Istanbul)Working with the international community to promote the growth and development of contemporary art, the Friends of Contemporary Istanbul aim to contribute to the cultural life of Istanbul. Email jasmine.taranto@gmail.com or phone 0532 687 7899.

Friends of India Association (FOIA)The Friends of India Association (FOIA) aims to connect Indians in Istanbul through social events. Our aim is to keep the spirit of India and Indian culture alive by organising festivals and activities. If you would like to know more, email any of the following: Jugnu Saglik: jugnusaglik@yahoo.com, Ambili: ramachandran.ambili@gmail.com or Diya: khera.diya@gmail.com. We are also on Facebook as Istanbul Indian community (FOIA).

Girl ScoutsThe Girl Scouts is dedicated to helping girls everywhere build character and gain skills for success. İn a nurturing environment, and in with committed volunteers, girls develop strong values, leadership skills, social conscience and conviction about their own potential and self-worth. Girls aged fıve and up are welcome. Email Kat Bekham usagsoistanbul@gmail.com or phone 054 2300 24 92.

IPWINIPWIN, the International Professional Women of Istanbul Network, welcomes all women who are working, seeking employment, or unable to work

in Turkey for legal reasons. Our members meet monthly at, informal get-togethers focusing on a specific topic. We also schedule special events through the year featuring business-related topics. Contact: ipwin@iwi-tr.org

InterNationsInterNations is an organisation where globally minded people have the opportunity to network and exchange valuable tips and topics regarding expatriate subjects. We organise events and provide opportunities for our members to meet and network twice a month. For further information please see our website http://www.internations.org.

International Women’s Bible StudyThis group meets Tuesdays from 10am until 12.30pm. Contact Vicki Günay on 0532 314 1134.

Istanbul AccueilWelcomes French speaking newcomers in Istanbul. We publish a weekly newsletter listing many events and activities. All French-speaking people are welcome! Email istaccueil@gmail.com or visit our website www.istanbulaccueil.org.

Istanbul@NightIstanbul@night offers a regular opportunity for IWI members, their spouses and friends, to get together and enjoy a few drinks in a fun, new and interesting spot. Everyone is welcome for a relaxed and sociable evening to enjoy some of the best Istanbul has to offer! Istanbul@night takes place on the last Thursday of every month. Look out for more details in the newsletter and on the IWI website. There is no cost for attending, just come and along and pay for what you order. Contact: istanbulatnight@iwi-tr.org

IWI Tennis GroupIf you enjoy playing tennis please join our group. The IWI Tennis Group takes place at Torch Tennis in Tarabya. We welcome all players from beginners to advanced. Please contact Kenan Dundar on 0535 390 4983 or email kenan.dundar@torchsportsclub.com.

Luso BrasileiroPortuguese speaking group. Contact Isabel Ponte Gulpan 0212 669 4943 or 0532 274 1653.

NVI – Dutch speaking people of IstanbulThe Dutch Club Istanbul aıms to keep typical Dutch festivities alive, for people who have a connection to Holland, who like to meet up with Dutch-speaking people. For further information check our website (www.nv-istanbul.org) or contact Lisette Ruygrok at secretariaat@nv-istanbul.org.

Istanbul International Rugby Center Founded in 2007, this is the only Rugby Club in Istanbul with coaching for children and teenagers. Turkish, English, French and Spanish all spoken. The club has coached over 400 international children aged fıve to 16. Rugby training is every Saturday 12.30 - 2pm at Dilikitaş Sport Club in Beşiktaş. Contact Club President Gülseren Gomez or Technical Director Mr Luis Gomez on 0538 642 4513 or see our website: www.istanbulrugbycenter.com

Istanbul Ottomans Rugby Football ClubWe practise every Saturday afternoon between 4pm and 6pm, except on days when there are official fixtures, at the Dikilitaş Spor Kulübü in Besiktas (directions available at www.ottomansrugby.com). Players of all ages (17+) and all levels of fitness are welcome.

Mahjong ClubWe are a small group of ladies, meeting once a week to piay Mahjong, a Chinese ‘brick’ game. Mahjong is very popular ın China and across Asia. The game was traditionally played in clubs, on the street and in homes. We meet on Thursdays at 10.30am and usually continue until around 3.30pm. We meet at each other’s homes, where we are

GROUPS & ASSOCIATIONS

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served a light lunch, nothing complicated. You don’t have to know the game in advance. It ıs not a complicated game, but it can take a little while to get familiar with. Join us - we will guide and support you. Please contact Br Gerd Andreasson for more information. Email: gerd.andreasson@gmail.com. Tel: +90 531 327 1108.

PAWIThe Professional American Women of Istanbul is a network of American/Canadian women and spouses of Americans/Canadians living in Istanbul. PAWI strives to empower and support members by promoting personal and professional growth. Each monthly PAWI meeting features a guest speaker, and locations alternate between the European and Asian sides. Contact info@pawiistanbul.com or visit www.pawistanbul.com.

Patchwork GroupContact Gaye Hiçdonmez at gayehicdonmez@gmail.com or 0532 700 0693.

Photography ClubThe photo club is a group of international members whose skill levels vary from very basic to semi-professional – but who all share the desire to capture the world in a photograph and to explore Istanbul while doing so. The group discussion includes all current event information, bi-weekly photo challenges, tips and tricks, and general photography topics. Contact: Fay Magnusson at photoclubofistanbul@gmail.com.

Speech BubblesSpeech Bubbles Theatre is a drama group established in 1988 aiming to perform high-quality English language musical theatre and donating proceeds to charities supporting children and education. Speech Bubbles is composed of amateur and professional dancers, singers and musicians from the international community. We also run a part-time school of performing arts for young people over 10 years of age and adults for three hours on Saturday mornings. Email tom@speechbubbles.org or www.speechbubbles.org.

South Africans in IstanbulPlease contact esbie@hotmail.com if you are interested in forming an informal group of expatriate South Africans.

SWEA (Swedish Women Educational Association)SWEA is a world-wide network for Swedish-speaking women with a chapter in Istanbul. We organise events and activities and welcome everyone who speaks Swedish. If you would like to know more, please contact istanbul@swea.org.

Support Group for Parents of Children with Special NeedsLooking for the support of other parents of children with special needs and additional resources for your child? Please contact Carol Crous for more information on 0533 730 7148 or 0212 223 9700.

Tennis ClubIf you enjoy playing tennis please join our group! Teams are based on skill level and we welcome all players from beginners to intermediate and advanced. Tennis Group takes place at Torch Tennis in Tarabya. Contact: Kenan Dündar kenandundar911@hotmail.com 0535 390 4983

Toastmasters International – Istanbul ChapterThe English speaking Istanbul Toastmasters Club is the first Istanbul branch of Toastmasters International, an organisation that helps its members improve their communication and leadership skills in a supportive environment.ITM meets on the first and third Wednesday of each month from 7.30pm to 9.30pm at the Gönen Hotel in Taksim. Guests are welcome to attend two meetings free of charge. Email vp-membership@istanbultoastmasters.org or president@istanbultoastmasters.org.

Union Church of IstanbulWe are an international, inter-denominational church that offers services in English. Please contact Elaine Van Rensburg 0212 244 5763.

GROUPS & ASSOCIATIONS

www.bipschool.net

IWI DIRECTORY / CLASSIFIEDS

Building Bridges betweenCountries & Cultures

MEF INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLUlus Mah. Öztopuz Cad. Leylak Sok. 34340 Ulus - Beşiktaş / Istanbul

Phone: +90 (212) 362 26 33 • Fax: +90 (0212) 287 38 70 E-mail: contact@mefis.k12.tr · www.mefis.k12.tr

PROFESSIONAL MASSAGE I can come to your house... Pregnancy massage, cellulite massage, relaxing massage, full body massage, osho re-balancing, massage or wax. Call me for more information: Hatice Yildrim Tirli 0532 260 4118 or 0542 434 1932.

HEREKE CARPETS HEREKE carpets for Sale second hand! Each of the carpets were valued by a specialist and the prices are very reasonable! 1. carpet 188 x 131 cm Kırciceğe wool and cotton 6 x 6 = 36 double knot per square cm. About 30 years old TL 1,800 (evaluated price TL 2,500)2. carpet 182 x 120 cm Polonez blue wool and cotton 6 x 6 = 36 double knots per sqare cm. About 40 years old TL 3,000 (evaluated price TL 4,000)3. carpet 128 x 85 cm SİLK 100 double knots per square cm about 50 years old TL 8,500 (evalutated price TL 10,000)For more information and photos contact petrafel@gmail.com

TURKISH FOR EXPATS, CONVERSATION, ALL LEVELSEnglish for daily conversation, school assistance,TOEFL, all levels at your home (or mine in Etiler)Shopping words and all from Linguist with diploma in language teaching. Sworn translator. Bosphorus University. 15+ years of experience. 0533 213 6957 April J. Karacehennem (long time member) aprilolson128@yahoo.com

TURKISH LESSONSPRIVATE AND CONVERSATIONAL For ladies and men, group or one to one lessons, at your home or workplace, from an experienced native teacher fluent in English and French. Adjustable to your needs and time schedule. Please call 0530 310 21 32 or email rbensan@superonline.com for full information.

FEELING ALONE WITH YOUR PROBLEMS?You're not. At Face to Face Therapia we offer professional, thoughtful, compassionate therapy to alleviate all kinds of mental distress. Psychotherapy and psychoanalysis – in person or online – for adults, children, couples and families in Levent, Istanbul. To book an appointment, or to find out how we can help, please contact us: (+90) 212 325 75 35 info@facetofaceterapi.com www.facetofaceterapi.com - www.couplescounsellingistanbul.com

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IWI PARTNER OFFERS

KIRKPINAR LOKANTASI / TURKISH CUISINEModern Turkish Cuisine. Kırkpınar Lokantası is offering IWI members a 10% discount on all Kırkpınar tastes. Show the manager or cashier your membership card and enjoy healthy Turkish food. Tea or coffee are free with your meal. For more information, see www.kirkpinarlokantasi.com.tr

PERSONAL LIFE COACHINGExperienced in Expat life for 15 years , I am ready to assist you during your transmission period .I am a certifed Life Coach ,Intercultural Trainer and MBTI Specialist , speak German and English fluently.I would be happy to offer 20 % discount to IWI members .Ozlem Hersek: 0532-616-50-45 ozlemhersek@gmail.com

EXPERT SKINCARE SPECIALISTSIs your skin in need of rehydration or have you noticed pigmentation changes following the summer sun? Combining our knowledge and skill with famous brands, oxygen facials, manual microdermabrasion to provide solutions, we offer free skincare consultations during the months of September and October, plus 20% discount for IWI members. CIDESCO, CIBTAC, ITEC qualifications. For more information and to make an appointment contact Siobhan or Gonca: Siobhan: 05355527887 / 00353851562889. Gonca: 05443235081 siobhandirilgen@hotmail.com

GRAND BAZAAR DISCOUNTS The following vendors in the Grand Bazaar are offering 10% discount.Koç Leather & FurKaptanBros, lighting and home decorationTarkan Özbudak, fine Kütahya and İznik hand-painted ceramics, tilesİgüs, cashmere & silkUcuzcular Baharat (Bilge Kadıoğlu): Spice market no:51 Eminönü

ISTANBUL TENNIS ACADEMY (ISTA)Offers individual and group lessons for children and adults of various skill levels. Our experienced coach will help to instill basic tennis skills and proper techniques in beginners as well as help develop professional skills for advanced players. Coach Kenan Dundar has extensive experience giving lessons to foreign students of all different levels and age groups. There are 5 tennis courts: 4 clay courts and 1 hard court. Every tennis court at our club meets the specifications for professional tennis courts but the tennis club not only has great tennis courts, it also has all the necessary modern infrastructure for training, warm-up and rest after the game. ISTA offers excellent opportunities for training and education but our tennis club is not only about the lessons and playing tennis, it is also a lively, relaxing and great place to meet other tennis fans and make interesting acquaintances. ISTA offers a 10% discount to IWI members. Courts are open from 7 am to midnight and for more detailed information please contact: 0535-390-4983 kenandundar911@hotmail.com (Kenan Dundar) or 0531-945-2588 pautova@hotmail.com (Olga Dundar)

STEVEN KITCHING BRITISH HAIRSTYLIST I’m happy to offer a 10% discount to all IWI members when booking your first appointment. I have 20 years experience in cutting, styling and colouring and offer a professional friendly service in the comfort of your home. For more details and appointments call or e-mail(0551) 412- 4784. stevekitching@hotmail.co.uk

HILLSIDE SPORTSWith a ‘feel good’ mission, these sports centres provide multi-functional and boutique services. Hillside’s unique products consider personal needs with a team of friendly, experienced and internationally certified experts. We introduce the world’s latest sports trends and provide a colourful range of products to members, combining fitness and fun. The ‘Hillsider community’ consists of Hillside Etiler, Hillside İstinye and Hillside Trio members. Activities, tours, cultural travels, tournaments and parties enrich the lives of the community of members. Hillside City Clubs are wellness addresses that satisfy all needs of their guests and makes sure they feel good. We offer a 20% discount on general membership to IWI members. Contact: Hillside City Club Etiler 0212 3522333 (Alkent Sitesi Tepecik Yolu Etiler). Hillside City Club Trio 0216 3241111 (Trio Konutları, Kozyatağı Hillside City Club İstinye 0212 3672000 ( İstinyePark AVM)

DENTGROUP DENTAL CLINICSDentGroup Dental Clinics is an ISO certified chain of dental clinics in Istanbul, Turkey. DentGroup has its own laboratory named DentLab and with 6 dental clinics, it offers a full range of dental services for all age groups, including orthodontics, implantology and paediatric dentistry. As an experienced team of specialists, DentGroup provides patient-centered personalised care with high quality and affordable dentistry. DentGroup Dental Clinics offers 20% discount on all treatments to IWI members for 2015-2016 IWI season. The offer is valid at all six clinics: DentGroup Maslak, DentGroup Ataşehir, DentGroup Bağdat Caddesi, DentGroup Kids, DentGroup Göztepe and DentGroup Acarkent.

DENTRAM DENTAL CLINICS Dentram Dental Clinics offers 20% discount on all treatments to IWI members. The offer is valid at all three clinics: Dentram Levent; Dentram Bağdat Caddesi; Dentram Acarkent. Please have your IWI membershıp card with you. www.dentram.com

BOYNUZ STEAK HOUSE & KASAPBoynuz offers IWI members a 10% discount.Polignon Mah. Polignon Cd. Fevzi Cakmak Sk. No:2 IstiniyePhone: 0212 2291910. www.boynuzet.com

CONCEPT LANGUAGES Located in the heart of Etiler, Concept Languages is offering free Turkish conversation classes to any IWI member presenting their card. Classes will take place twice a month between 14:30 –15:30 and for full information and reservations. Please Contact: Başak Toksoy (0212) 351- 18 40 basak.toksoy@conceptlanguages.com

TIME OUT SUBSCRIPTIONSTime Out Istanbul in English is offering a 25% discout onsubscriptions for IWI members. Make Time Out your monthly go-to guide for the city by contacting: Omer Karanis, omer@ajansmedya.com. www.timeoutistanbul.com

CHILL OUT SPA NIŞANTAŞI British salon owner Ann Marie Sabuncu is offering IWI members a 25% discount on all treatments and package programs. Chill Out is a small boutique spa using quality products from Decleor. Latest technology LPG body treatments and reflexology are just some of the treatments available. For more information please contact Ann Marie on 0212 231 1159. www.chilloutspa.com.tr

SWISS CENTERDENT DENTAL CLINIC ZORLU CENTERSwiss Centerdent Dental Clinic is located in Zorlu Center Shopping Mall, İstanbul and Sihlcity Shopping Mall Zürich, Switzerland. Our experienced team of specialists offers you swiss excellence and standards in dental health care. Our clinic offers the entire spectrum of dentistry, with the use of state of the art technology. We are striving to create a practice climate that is beneficial, soothing and inviting. Our services: Implantology, Orthodontics, Paediatric Dentristry, Prostethics and much more: We offer a 20% discount on all services for all IWI members. Swiss CENTERDENT, Zorlu Center, Teras Evler, T0, Daire 35, Beşiktaş, Istanbul, 0212/ 353 63 83 www. swisscenterdent.com

MOMMA ZEN/ANNEZENMomma Zen/annezen is a centre which specialises in yoga, massage and aromatherapy for the pregnant woman, baby yoga and baby massage workshops and kid's yoga. We also offer a doula service and breastfeeding workshops, as well as massage and yoga for non-pregnant women. Momma Zen also teaches HypnoBirthing classes in English and runs workshops on making natural skincare products. For IWI members we are pleased to offer a 20% discount on the full price of prenatal yoga and birth classes, workshops, massages and child yoga. Momma Zen/annezen, Kordon Yolu Sokak 8/1, Kordon Apt, Kalamiş, Istanbul. Tel: 0216 345 0866. Jo Harris: 0536 8285587. www.momma-zen.com. www.annezen.com/program

In order to take advantage of these offers, you must show your IWI membership card

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MEMBERSHIPMembership is open to all women who hold a Non-Turkish passport or who are married to a foreign passport holding spouse. For application details, please visit our website www.iwi-tr.org.

Membership registration is also available at our Newcomers meetings, held each month on both the European and Asian sides. Please refer to the Newcomers page in this Lale magazine for details of timing and location.

Changing Address or Lale Problems?Don’t forget to give us your new address (postal and/or e-mail) to avoid delays to the delivery of Lale magazine or for up-to-date IWI member information. Contact our Membership Coordinator by e-mail at membership@iwi-tr.org.

If your Lale magazine doesn’t arrive, please contact the Membership Coordinatormembership@iwi-tr.org

ADVERTISINGTo place an advertisement please contact us at advertising@iwi-tr.org. Advertisements must be confirmed through signed contract before any payment is accepted.

Classified ads: Restricted to 50 words.

Member cost: 1-3 FREE in our online publications (Non-Commercial Ads) Non-Member cost: $60 plus 18% VAT.

All advertising costs are payable by bank transfer. No cash payments accepted. A copy of the payment transfer (dekont) should be sent via email: advertising@iwi-tr.org. Only paid advertisements can be included in Lale.

Payment DetailsBank: Garanti BankasıBranch Code (Hesap Şubesi): 340 Etiler TL Account (TL Hesap): TR03 0006 2000 3400 0006 2991 17 USD Account (USD Hesap): TR09 0006 2000 3400 0009 0939 67Customer Name: İstanbul Uluslararası Kadınlar Derneği İktisadi İşletmesi

DISCLAIMERLale ContentThe IWI as an organisation and the IWI Board members act within the laws of Turkey pertaining to publishing but they do not accept any liability regarding the accuracy or content of the contributions supplied by our advertisers or members’ articles. In order to comply with these laws or publishing standards the IWI reserve the right to reject or edit any submission to Lale. Furthermore, the IWI does not accept any responsibility for any of the services rendered by any of our advertisers.

ProgrammesCancellation of a programme reservation after the deadline remains fully payable. Please refer to our website www.iwi-tr.org for up to date details, last minute additions or programme changes. The IWI reserves the right to cancel programmes due to insufficient numbers. You are responsible for both you and your child’s safety and the IWI cannot accept responsibility for injury or extra cost incurred during any activity organised by the IWI, or advertised in Lale.

Membership DirectoryMembership information is only available online in the members only area of the website at present, but depending on sponsorship availability, may again be printed in the future as it was in the past. Whether online or in print, any and all member information is provided to IWI members in strictest confidentiality. Provision of member information to third

parties contravenes IWI policy

IWI POLICIES

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www.iics.k12.tr

IICS is the only Early Years 3 through Grade 12International school in Istanbul fully authorized and

globally accredited by the IB, CIS and NEASC. www.iics.k12.tr

IICS. Exceptional. Forward Thinking.

1911-2011Years of Academic Excellence

• Child-centered education Early Years 3 through Grade 12• Rigorous academics delivered by highly quali�ed faculty• Top university acceptances• Fully-authorized International Baccalaureate school (PYP, MYP, DP)• Multicultural sta� & students• Modern technology & resources• Over a century of excellence