LADIES’ CLOTHING OF THE CIVIL WAR PERIOD Breaking the Hollywood Myths and bringing the period to...

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LADIES’ CLOTHING OF THE CIVIL WAR PERIOD Breaking the Hollywood Myths and bringing the period to life

Transcript of LADIES’ CLOTHING OF THE CIVIL WAR PERIOD Breaking the Hollywood Myths and bringing the period to...

Page 1: LADIES’ CLOTHING OF THE CIVIL WAR PERIOD Breaking the Hollywood Myths and bringing the period to life.

LADIES’ CLOTHING OF THE CIVIL WAR PERIOD

Breaking the Hollywood Myths and bringing the period to life

Page 2: LADIES’ CLOTHING OF THE CIVIL WAR PERIOD Breaking the Hollywood Myths and bringing the period to life.

From Gone With the Wind to North and South, Hollywood has shaped our idea of what the

Civil War Era ladies wore.

Most of it is WRONG!

The Hollywood Version

Page 3: LADIES’ CLOTHING OF THE CIVIL WAR PERIOD Breaking the Hollywood Myths and bringing the period to life.

Rounded body, narrow waist, wide shoulders and hips

The Fashionable Ideal-1860’s Style

Page 4: LADIES’ CLOTHING OF THE CIVIL WAR PERIOD Breaking the Hollywood Myths and bringing the period to life.

Everything about fashionable clothing reflected this: Dropped shoulders added roundness Fitted bodices narrowed to tight

“natural waist”-higher than today Pleating, gathering and skirt

shaping widened hips and narrowed waist

Hair: Wide at ears, confined at crown and neck

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1860’s Fashions Did Not Include:

Zippers Elastic, except in shoes Man-made Fibers (Polyester,

Acrylic, Rayon)

What They Would NOT HAVE WORN

Page 6: LADIES’ CLOTHING OF THE CIVIL WAR PERIOD Breaking the Hollywood Myths and bringing the period to life.

To wear a “wrapper” or robe for most of the morning, including receiving family and close friends and doing household chores or supervision

To bare shoulders, neck and a large amount of chest for formal nighttime occasions- Balls, Opera and Formal Suppers

To wear sheer dresses, showing pristine underclothesYou Might Be Surprised- It’s Perfectly

Correct!

Page 7: LADIES’ CLOTHING OF THE CIVIL WAR PERIOD Breaking the Hollywood Myths and bringing the period to life.

Wrappers

Page 8: LADIES’ CLOTHING OF THE CIVIL WAR PERIOD Breaking the Hollywood Myths and bringing the period to life.

Original Dress- Evening or Ball Wear

Page 9: LADIES’ CLOTHING OF THE CIVIL WAR PERIOD Breaking the Hollywood Myths and bringing the period to life.

Sheer Dresses

Page 10: LADIES’ CLOTHING OF THE CIVIL WAR PERIOD Breaking the Hollywood Myths and bringing the period to life.
Page 11: LADIES’ CLOTHING OF THE CIVIL WAR PERIOD Breaking the Hollywood Myths and bringing the period to life.

Color and Pattern

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Wealth was indicated through lavish trim and large scale pattern Time and effort in making and

decorating clothing was cheap Materials were expensive Trims were often re-used

Poorer people followed the general fashion, but using less expensive materials

Lower classes of people wore used and made-over clothing

Show Your Station

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Practicality Layers of undergarments were easily washed Washing outer garments difficult

Comfort Hoops kept weight of dresses & petties off hips Sheer dresses, wide “pagoda” sleeves in hot

seasons Clothing to match labor or duties

Social Expectations Conforming to clothing rules and manners Modesty, “good taste” and elegance were valued Being part of the “in group” expressed through

clothingThey Did Things For a Reason

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Jewelry Gems, gold and semi-

precious stones Cameos Hair Jewelry Double Sets of bracelets

Finishing Touches

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Headwear Hats: for the fashionable set Bonnets: considered far more formal

Indoor Caps for daywear at home Elaborate floral/ribbon/lace accents with

evening wear

On Your Head

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Outerwear Coats, Furs and Shawls Shoes and boots Gloves

To Keep Warm and Dry

Page 17: LADIES’ CLOTHING OF THE CIVIL WAR PERIOD Breaking the Hollywood Myths and bringing the period to life.

Children were dressed as miniature adults

Girls often wore open necked dresses and short sleeves, shorter hem lengths

Boys wore skirts until ages 4-6 Hair parts show the gender in

young children: boys with side parts

A Child’s View

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Magazines and Newspapers Godey’s Lady’s Book Peterson’s

Word of Mouth Face to face conversations were ladies’

main amusement Visiting Hours were daily obligations

that allowed information to be passed Very Gender-Specific!

Public Gatherings Political Meetings Religious Services Entertainment Charity

Getting the Message

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Morning Clothing reflects the duties of a person

Cleaning, caring for children, supervising staff Soft stays, wrapper, one or two layers of petties

Visiting Depending on activities: Walking, carriage or indoors?

“Day Dress”-better fabrics, more ornamentation Working

Some women would be “making a living” through sewing, cleaning, teaching. Clothing would maintain general styles, but be “serviceable”

A Day in the Life

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Dinner A social engagement would require formal

bodice with high neckline. Fabrics similar to ballwear, but no low bodices. Sometimes interchangeable bodices for one skirt

Jewelry, hair and outerwear would reflect the best she had

Evening Entertainment Appropriate to the event- political lecture vs. the

opera Ball gowns were worn by young and old, but

many mature women (30 plus!) wore “dinner” styles with higher necklines, rich fabrics and colors

All the Layers

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A Proud Couple-African Americans in the North

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Dress her children similarly to herself/her husband

Make sure any household staff had appropriate clothing- they reflected on the lady of the house

Show respect to her hosts, guests and friends by dressing for the specific occasion

Consider her undergarments- petticoats, corset covers- to be part of her visible wardrobe. They must be presentable at all times

A Lady Would Likely….

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Wear clothing inappropriate to her social station and what she was doing

Wear outer clothes without proper underclothes

Show her shoulders or open neckline before early evening

Wear clothing inappropriate to her age, either too young or too old

A Lady Would Not…

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The Period Look