L’Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale - Condimento Straordinario

2
differentiates by the color of the bottle cap. A cream-colored top means at least 12 years and a magenta cap 25 years or more. Besides the “L’Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale” and the mass-produced commercial grade, there are a number of “Condimento” grade vinegars which fall somewhere in between. Whether they are not aged as long, or do not follow the strict standards of the consortium, many of these products still manage to approximate the balanced acidity and rich, sweet flavor of the original. One of Mario Batali’s favorites is Villa Manodori Aceto Balsamico di Modena, which can be found at Eataly in New York City. It is manufactured by Massimo Bottura, chef and owner of Osteria Francescana in Modena. Chef Bottura adheres to the same traditional methods of production that Modenese families have followed for generations, aging his vinegar for 10 to 15 years in specially crafted wooden barrels. Mario recommends enhancing rib eye steaks and thick-cut pork chops with a generous drizzle. Or sprinkling a few drops on chunks of Parmigiano Reggiano, or mortadella, as an antipasto, or adding a touch to grilled fish. Aceto Balsamico can even enhance fresh strawberries or pears. There is almost nothing this amazing condiment can’t improve. The word “Balsamic” comes from the same Latin root as balm, meaning “restorative” or “aromatic”. An apt name then, for this rich, savory elixir that can anoint almost any dish with only a few drops. Just another example of the sublime subtlety that characterizes so much of Italian cuisine and culture. RADICCHIO AND GINGER SALAD Recipe from Molto Gusto (ecco 2010) 2 ounces young ginger, peeled 11/2 pounds radicchio, cored and each head cut into 8 wedges 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar 1 teaspoon sugar 1/4 cup lemon agrumato oil or 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil plus a generous pinch of grated lemon zest 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil Flaky sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper Using a Benriner (Japanese mandoline) or other vegetable slicer, thinly slice the ginger; or slice it paper-thin with a very sharp knife. Combine the radicchio and ginger in a large bowl, tossing gently. Whisk the vinegar and sugar together in a small bowl. Whisk in the oils, then whisk in salt and pepper to taste. Toss the salad with half the vinaigrette, and serve the remainder on the side. For centuries it was kept stored in attics across Emilia Romagna, now L’Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale has taken its rightful place as one of the most transcendent and transformative condiments in any chef’s culinary arsenal. During the ‘70s, that halcyon decade that brought to American palettes the joys of French cheese pies and raw fish, balsamic vinegar was introduced on a wide scale in the U.S. Today the brightly-acidic, darkly-sweet liquid is everywhere. It is ubiquitous in American cuisine. Universal adoption does not necessarily mean deep understanding. Nearly everyone has an air conditioner—try asking someone how they work. There is, in fact, another variety—L’ Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, D.O.P. While the commercial-grade iteration owes much of its flavor and color to the addition of liquid caramel and other not-so-artisanal ingredients, the authentic-aged version is another animal altogether. Thick, almost syrupy, it is subtly herbaceous with rich aromatic notes, balanced acidity and an intense, mouth-filling, velvety flavor. One taste and you begin to understand the difference, and why some people are willing to spend up to $200 on a 4 oz. bottle of aged vinegar. The production of Aceto Balsamico is limited to two specific regions of Emilia Romagna—Modena and Reggio Emilia, its inception dating back to at least the 10th century. Production, marketing and exportation are strictly controlled by a local consortium formed in 1979. Both “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena” and “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia” are protected by the Italian Denominazione di Origine Protetta and the European Union’s Protected Designation of Origin. The grapes used must all originate within the region and are limited to the Trebbiano and Lambrusco varietals though a few others are allowed in small quantities. After pressing, the grape juice is cooked down in large cauldrons to about 30 percent of its original volume to produce a thick must. This viscous syrup, called mosto cotto, is subsequently aged for a minimum of 12 years in a succession of seven barrels of diminishing capacities. A variety of woods, including oak, chestnut and juniper, are used during aging, with each imparting its own unique influence on the flavor. At the end of this, the Aceto Balsamico is subject to very stringent quality control, with a panel of five “masters” of the Consorzio tasting the vinegar to ensure it meets the high standards of production and quality. The 12-year-old Aceto Balsamico is labeled “Vecchio,” while vinegar that is 25 years old, or older earn the designation of “Stravecchio” or “Extravecchio.” Each region has its very own specific method for designating age. Reggio Emilia does it with color: a red label for vinegar aged at least 12 years, silver for 18 years and a gold label means the vinegar has aged for at least 25 years. Modena Just Add Balsamic to Everything. By John Moore The Champion of Condiments 22

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For centuries it was kept stored in attics across Emilia Romagna, now L’Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale has taken its rightful place as one of the most transcendent and transformative condiments in any chef's culinary arsenal.

Transcript of L’Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale - Condimento Straordinario

Page 1: L’Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale - Condimento Straordinario

differentiates by the color of the bottle cap. A cream-colored top

means at least 12 years and a magenta cap 25 years or more.

Besides the “L’Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale” and the mass-produced

commercial grade, there are a number of “Condimento” grade vinegars

which fall somewhere in between. Whether they are not aged as

long, or do not follow the strict standards of the consortium, many

of these products still manage to approximate the balanced acidity

and rich, sweet � avor of the original. One of Mario Batali’s favorites

is Villa Manodori Aceto Balsamico di Modena, which can be found

at Eataly in New York City. It is manufactured by Massimo Bottura,

chef and owner of Osteria Francescana in Modena. Chef Bottura

adheres to the same traditional methods of production that Modenese

families have followed for generations, aging his vinegar for 10 to

15 years in specially crafted wooden barrels. Mario recommends

enhancing rib eye steaks and thick-cut pork chops with a generous

drizzle. Or sprinkling a few drops on chunks of Parmigiano Reggiano,

or mortadella, as an antipasto, or adding a touch to grilled � sh. Aceto

Balsamico can even enhance fresh strawberries or pears.

There is almost nothing this amazing condiment can’t improve. The

word “Balsamic” comes from the same Latin root as balm, meaning

“restorative” or “aromatic”. An apt name then, for this rich, savory

elixir that can anoint almost any dish with only a few drops. Just

another example of the sublime subtlety that characterizes so much

of Italian cuisine and culture.

RADICCHIO AND GINGER SALAD

Recipe from Molto Gusto (ecco 2010)

2 ounces young ginger, peeled

11/2 pounds radicchio, cored and each head cut into 8

wedges

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar

1/4 cup lemon agrumato oil or 1/4 cup extra virgin olive

oil plus a generous pinch of grated lemon zest

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

Flaky sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper

Using a Benriner (Japanese mandoline) or other vegetable slicer,

thinly slice the ginger; or slice it paper-thin with a very sharp knife.

Combine the radicchio and ginger in a large bowl, tossing gently.

Whisk the vinegar and sugar together in a small bowl. Whisk in the

oils, then whisk in salt and pepper to taste.

Toss the salad with half the vinaigrette, and serve the remainder on the side.

For centuries it was kept stored in attics across Emilia Romagna,

now L’Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale has taken its rightful place as

one of the most transcendent and transformative condiments in any

chef’s culinary arsenal.

During the ‘70s, that halcyon decade that brought to American

palettes the joys of French cheese pies and raw � sh, balsamic

vinegar was introduced on a wide scale in the U.S. Today the

brightly-acidic, darkly-sweet liquid is everywhere. It is ubiquitous

in American cuisine. Universal adoption does not necessarily mean

deep understanding. Nearly everyone has an air conditioner—try

asking someone how they work.

There is, in fact, another variety—L’ Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale,

D.O.P. While the commercial-grade iteration owes much of its � avor

and color to the addition of liquid caramel and other not-so-artisanal

ingredients, the authentic-aged version is another animal altogether.

Thick, almost syrupy, it is subtly herbaceous with rich aromatic notes,

balanced acidity and an intense, mouth-� lling, velvety � avor. One taste

and you begin to understand the difference, and why some people are

willing to spend up to $200 on a 4 oz. bottle of aged vinegar.

The production of Aceto Balsamico is limited to two speci� c regions of

Emilia Romagna—Modena and Reggio Emilia, its inception dating back

to at least the 10th century. Production, marketing and exportation are

strictly controlled by a local consortium formed in 1979. Both “Aceto

Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena” and “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale

di Reggio Emilia” are protected by the Italian Denominazione di Origine

Protetta and the European Union’s Protected Designation of Origin.

The grapes used must all originate within the region and are limited

to the Trebbiano and Lambrusco varietals though a few others are

allowed in small quantities.

After pressing, the grape juice is cooked down in large cauldrons

to about 30 percent of its original volume to produce a thick must.

This viscous syrup, called mosto cotto, is subsequently aged for a

minimum of 12 years in a succession of seven barrels of diminishing

capacities. A variety of woods, including oak, chestnut and juniper,

are used during aging, with each imparting its own unique in� uence

on the � avor. At the end of this, the Aceto Balsamico is subject to very

stringent quality control, with a panel of � ve “masters” of the Consorzio

tasting the vinegar to ensure it meets the high standards of production

and quality. The 12-year-old Aceto Balsamico is labeled “Vecchio,”

while vinegar that is 25 years old, or older earn the designation of

“Stravecchio” or “Extravecchio.” Each region has its very own speci� c

method for designating age. Reggio Emilia does it with color: a red

label for vinegar aged at least 12 years, silver for 18 years and a gold

label means the vinegar has aged for at least 25 years. Modena

Just Add Balsamic to Everything. By John Moore

The Champion of Condiments

22

V4_balsamic_QG.indd 22 2/22/11 2:18 PM

Page 2: L’Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale - Condimento Straordinario

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