L’Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale - Condimento Straordinario
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differentiates by the color of the bottle cap. A cream-colored top
means at least 12 years and a magenta cap 25 years or more.
Besides the “L’Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale” and the mass-produced
commercial grade, there are a number of “Condimento” grade vinegars
which fall somewhere in between. Whether they are not aged as
long, or do not follow the strict standards of the consortium, many
of these products still manage to approximate the balanced acidity
and rich, sweet � avor of the original. One of Mario Batali’s favorites
is Villa Manodori Aceto Balsamico di Modena, which can be found
at Eataly in New York City. It is manufactured by Massimo Bottura,
chef and owner of Osteria Francescana in Modena. Chef Bottura
adheres to the same traditional methods of production that Modenese
families have followed for generations, aging his vinegar for 10 to
15 years in specially crafted wooden barrels. Mario recommends
enhancing rib eye steaks and thick-cut pork chops with a generous
drizzle. Or sprinkling a few drops on chunks of Parmigiano Reggiano,
or mortadella, as an antipasto, or adding a touch to grilled � sh. Aceto
Balsamico can even enhance fresh strawberries or pears.
There is almost nothing this amazing condiment can’t improve. The
word “Balsamic” comes from the same Latin root as balm, meaning
“restorative” or “aromatic”. An apt name then, for this rich, savory
elixir that can anoint almost any dish with only a few drops. Just
another example of the sublime subtlety that characterizes so much
of Italian cuisine and culture.
RADICCHIO AND GINGER SALAD
Recipe from Molto Gusto (ecco 2010)
2 ounces young ginger, peeled
11/2 pounds radicchio, cored and each head cut into 8
wedges
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 cup lemon agrumato oil or 1/4 cup extra virgin olive
oil plus a generous pinch of grated lemon zest
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Flaky sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper
Using a Benriner (Japanese mandoline) or other vegetable slicer,
thinly slice the ginger; or slice it paper-thin with a very sharp knife.
Combine the radicchio and ginger in a large bowl, tossing gently.
Whisk the vinegar and sugar together in a small bowl. Whisk in the
oils, then whisk in salt and pepper to taste.
Toss the salad with half the vinaigrette, and serve the remainder on the side.
For centuries it was kept stored in attics across Emilia Romagna,
now L’Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale has taken its rightful place as
one of the most transcendent and transformative condiments in any
chef’s culinary arsenal.
During the ‘70s, that halcyon decade that brought to American
palettes the joys of French cheese pies and raw � sh, balsamic
vinegar was introduced on a wide scale in the U.S. Today the
brightly-acidic, darkly-sweet liquid is everywhere. It is ubiquitous
in American cuisine. Universal adoption does not necessarily mean
deep understanding. Nearly everyone has an air conditioner—try
asking someone how they work.
There is, in fact, another variety—L’ Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale,
D.O.P. While the commercial-grade iteration owes much of its � avor
and color to the addition of liquid caramel and other not-so-artisanal
ingredients, the authentic-aged version is another animal altogether.
Thick, almost syrupy, it is subtly herbaceous with rich aromatic notes,
balanced acidity and an intense, mouth-� lling, velvety � avor. One taste
and you begin to understand the difference, and why some people are
willing to spend up to $200 on a 4 oz. bottle of aged vinegar.
The production of Aceto Balsamico is limited to two speci� c regions of
Emilia Romagna—Modena and Reggio Emilia, its inception dating back
to at least the 10th century. Production, marketing and exportation are
strictly controlled by a local consortium formed in 1979. Both “Aceto
Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena” and “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale
di Reggio Emilia” are protected by the Italian Denominazione di Origine
Protetta and the European Union’s Protected Designation of Origin.
The grapes used must all originate within the region and are limited
to the Trebbiano and Lambrusco varietals though a few others are
allowed in small quantities.
After pressing, the grape juice is cooked down in large cauldrons
to about 30 percent of its original volume to produce a thick must.
This viscous syrup, called mosto cotto, is subsequently aged for a
minimum of 12 years in a succession of seven barrels of diminishing
capacities. A variety of woods, including oak, chestnut and juniper,
are used during aging, with each imparting its own unique in� uence
on the � avor. At the end of this, the Aceto Balsamico is subject to very
stringent quality control, with a panel of � ve “masters” of the Consorzio
tasting the vinegar to ensure it meets the high standards of production
and quality. The 12-year-old Aceto Balsamico is labeled “Vecchio,”
while vinegar that is 25 years old, or older earn the designation of
“Stravecchio” or “Extravecchio.” Each region has its very own speci� c
method for designating age. Reggio Emilia does it with color: a red
label for vinegar aged at least 12 years, silver for 18 years and a gold
label means the vinegar has aged for at least 25 years. Modena
Just Add Balsamic to Everything. By John Moore
The Champion of Condiments
22
V4_balsamic_QG.indd 22 2/22/11 2:18 PM
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