Issue 03 | Septemer 2011

A journey to

kashmir

T R A V E L M A G

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The best season to travel has started If it’s September, then the summers and the monsoons are giving way to autumn. And the best season to travel starts now. Over the coming months you can travel to almost any part of India and are sure to have a great time.

As the rain clouds clear, you will get crystal clear views of the Himalayan peaks. The snow caps may be missing (best seen in spring), but their majesty

will be yours to behold. As autumn sets in, the skies and the flora take on hues to die for. It is best to drive to Ladakh and Lahaul Spiti before mid-October, with much of Kashmir, Uttarakhand, Himachal Pradesh and Nepal accessible until much later.

All national parks closed for the rains re-open on October 1, so book your safaris now. The forests will be lush green - even if it means animals will be better camouflaged. As mornings and evenings get more pleasant, the hot states of Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh and Gujarat become fun to be in. Rivers will be in full spate for adventure lovers out for whitewater rafting in the day, with nights perfect for a bonfire and barbeque.

The North-East is best visited from October to February - go by road to fully enjoy yourself. Most areas are safe. For those who love the sea, drive up and down India’s western and eastern coastlines, or head to the islands of Andamans and Nicobar, and the Lakshwadeep.

Between now and December, it is the time for festivals and fairs all over the country. Eid may have just got over, but the country will be colourful, lighted, bright and happy with local and national events all the way to the New Year. And beyond.

If you have not utilized your annual leaves yet, now is the time. Happy travels.

*Unless mentioned, all articles and photographs in this issue are by Ajay Jain

http://kunzum.com/mag

Jammu and KashmirA Journey to Kashmir, on Kunzum Route K11

delhiJoin the annual Dussehra ProcessionSafdarjung’s Tomb Tamil naduThe Niligiri Mountain Railway: A Toy Train you must Ride

raJasThan Jodhpur: Food, Bazaars, History - It all Happens Here

hoTel reviewsCastle Bera, Bera, RajasthanRain Country Resorts, Wayanad, KeralaThe Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar, GujaratBanjara Orchard Retreat, Thanedar, Himachal Pradesh

sTuffTravel Bites Don’t be Jet-lagged this Holiday Seasonsketch feature - malaysiaBook review: River Dog

contents

CTO (Chief Travelling Officer): ajay Jain - He also hogs the driver’s seat

CEO (Chief Editorial Officer): anubhuti rana - Prefers being on the passenger seat on the highways

CSO (Chief Social Officer): shruti sharma - Found on Facebook, Twitter, Kunzum Travel Café or

trekking in the wild

CDO (Chief Design Officer): faizan Patel - Also Chief Desk Officer, that’s where he is stuck when

others travel

team kunzum

issue 1, July 2011

raJasThan / ranThamBhore: > Looking the tiger in the eye naGaland: Misty Mountain Top The re-discovery of nePal ladaKh: At the top of the world himaChal Pradesh / lahaul sPiTi> Kaza: Paradise is Here > Tabo, the Village of Cavemen and Lamas

delhi> Mehrauli Archaeological Park: Bet no onetells you this one > Hazrat Nizamuddin’s Dargah: Qawwalis, Fairs, Prayers, Shopping – It all happens here

GuJaraT> Rani ki Vav in Patan: A Stepwell or a Work of Art? > The Sun Temple at Modhera

Jordan> Dead Sea: Try sinking in it, you cannot!

hoTel reviews> Swaswara in Gokarna, Karnataka - Perfect to uplift your body, mind and soul > Banasura Island Retreat, Wayanad Kerala - What a perfect setting for a resort > Banjara Camps and Retreat, Sangla, Himachal Pradesh - Cannot Admire it Enough> Gir Birding Lodge, Sasan Gir, Gujarat - They know the jungle!

BooKs: > 5 books to read about the 1996 Everest disaster

issue 2, auGusT 2011

assam:> Manas National Park: The Games Elephants Play arunaChal Pradesh: > Hello Ladies…of Arunachal Pradesh

himaChal Pradesh

maharashTra:> The Matheran Light Railway: Go for a Joyride

uTTaraKhand> Kunzum Route K14

delhi> If it’s Ramadan, you must be in Matia Mahal> Walk on the Northern Ridge: History in One Sweep

raJasThan> Kuldhara, Jaisalmer: When the Paliwals Vanished into the Night> Bera: Welcome to Leopard Country - It is Wild and Free

hoTel reviews> Banjara Retreat, Shoja > The Almond Villa, Srinagar > Rann Riders, Dasada, Rann of Kutch> Devra Homestay, Udaipur

sTuff> Sketch Feature - Singapore> Photography: Don’t let the Camera go Dead on you> Book Review: Journey to the Center of the Earth

Missed the earlier issues of the Kunzum Travel Mag? No problem. Download the same at http://kunzum.com/mag. This is what we have covered:

www.planetwildlife.com

http://www.banjaracamps.com

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driving on Kunzum route K11

a journey to Kashmir

If there is one thing to be envied in earlier generations, it is their good fortune to have seen Kashmir at its

bountiful best. Over the last quarter of a century, terrorism and global warming - not to forget unplanned growth - have taken a toll on what was described as paradise by the Mughal rulers. Fortunately, Mother Nature is made of sterner stuff. While some of the sheen may have gone from Kashmir’s beauty, there is still much to go back for. Not once, but many times over. And each time you will have new stories to discover, new sights to see, and new memories to cherish. Get going on Kunzum Route K11 to experience what is still a paradise in many ways. Go, discover.

A brief outline of Route K11 is given here, followed by attractions along the way. For a detailed route guide and road conditions, you could purchase a copy of the Kunzum Travel List from http://kunzum.com/travellist.

Leg 1: Delhi to Jammu: 629 kms (393 miles) / 10:59 hrs

Leg 2: Jammu to Pahalgam: 287 kms (179 miles) / 7:34 hrs: Take breaks along the way at Udhampur (for

the Kiramchi Temples), Kud (for the Indian sweet Patisa), Peerah (for its famous Rajma - Chawal, or rice with Indian beans) and Matan (with a detour to the spectacular Martanda Sun Temple).

Leg 3: Pahalgam - Srinagar: 95 kms (59 miles) / 2:30 hrs

Leg 4: Srinagar - Gulmarg and back: 56 Kms (35 Miles) / 1:40 hrs one way

Leg 5: Srinagar - Sonamarg: 86 kms (54 miles) / 2:30 hrs one way: Go over for its stunning landscapes.

KunzuM Route K11

JaMMu: a RoyaL weLcoMe, afteR a Day LonG DRive fRoM DeLhiJammu is the recommended night halt before you move further. Strongly recommend you stay at the Hari Niwas Palace, owned and run by the descendents of Maharaja Hari Singh, the last ruler of Kashmir.

Jammu is the winter capital of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. As the cold sets in, politicians, bureaucrats and other Government employees all move with their papers and files from Srinagar down to the lower Himalayas, only to repeat the exercise in the opposite direction come summer. What a waste of time and effort!

Do take out time to visit the Amar Mahal Museum within the hotel complex; it has been set up and run by Hari Singh’s politician

A nearly blind woman rowing a Shikara in the Dal Lake in Srinagar

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the ancient teMPLeS in KiRaMchi in uDhaMPuR DeSeRve MoRe faMeStart from Jammu at the crack of dawn - it will leave you with time to enjoy some of the surprises on the way.

You will notice many signs pointing to ancient temples, forts and palaces. These are usually all a few miles off the highway, and maintained mostly by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). Take detours for all those that catch your attention.

Especially for the temples at Kiramchi. There is almost nothing known about the seven ancient temples in Kiramchi. Forget outsiders, most residents of the state don’t know about their existence either. They are no less than a little wonder hidden on a path less taken. Theories abound: The temples are probably dated circa 8th-9th century A.D. Kiramchi may have been founded much earlier though by Raja (King) Kichak, a contemporary of the Pandavas of Mahabharata – going back a few millennia. The only certainty: It was the capital of the Bhutial dynasty before the Bhuti kingdom was given up to Raja Gulab Singh in 1834.

As I admired these temples dedicated to Lord Shiva, and one to Maa (Mother) Durga, I could doff my [sun protection] hat to the architects of this complex. And, surprisingly, to the ASI who have maintained it so well despite the remoteness. Of course, none of the caretakers had answers beyond what was given in the official catalog. Including about the many excavations of human, animal and religious forms exhibited in a room.Enjoy the sights in the meantime.

Getting to Kiramchi: Locate the Supply Chowk (crossing) in Udhampur, drive 8 km through winding back roads, park your car and hike for one km (half a mile) on a rocky trail. And ask a dozen people for directions or you will never find Kiramchi.

– diplomat son, Dr. Karan Singh. Named after Hari Singh’s father, it offered me a good insight into the life and history of the state’s last ruling dynasty founded by Maharaja Gulab Singh (1792-1858). A well stocked library can keep one busy for months. The best place to read the books would have been in the last Queen’s bedroom, maintained in a state of readiness lest Her Highness walks in. The finest of crockery from England has been set on the table by the window, as if waiting for hot tea to be served. A relishing thought after a full day’s drive.

Travel Tip: Jammu is best visited in winters. Summers can be hot followed by wet monsoons. Many people also take a halt here before heading out to the nearby Vaishno Devi, a popular pilgrimage spot for devout Hindus.

KuD, foR the Sweet toothMy sweet tooth (make it teeth) had heard good things about Kud, and could not wait to sink into its famed Patisa, an Indian sweet. It seems the town’s GDP depends on sale of sweets and savouries – rows of shops located on either side of the highway cause perennial traffic jams. The goodies were being prepared in open kitchens, prompting purchases as they came out fresh. Leaving customers licking their fingers long after finishing their portions.

Not sure who is the best? Follow the crowds and check out Prem Di Hatti, the busiest shop out there. Most other shopkeepers just watch in envy, and will persuade and heckle you into trying their kitchen. Your call who you patronize.

the faMouS JaMMu ReD beanS, cooKeD fReSh at PeeRahAfter the desserts (in advance) at Kud, lunch at Peerah, famous for its countless dhabas or roadside eateries serving Rajmash (Rajma or red beans) and rice – optionally topped with desi ghee (clarified butter) with anardana (pomegranate) chutney on the side. I was impressed with the quality of ingredients used – without which Peerah would not have built a reputation. Interestingly, I noticed a price list rubber stamped by the union of all these dhabas – a way to ensure they don’t undercut to compete or even overcharge. Very sensible. Not that it was too expensive – a generous portion costs about Rs. 50. Not bad for something that is fresh, tasty, hot and clean (by many standards).

Thousands of travelers who stop here daily would say ‘Aye’ in agreement.

no SPotLiGhtS foR thiS Sun teMPLeThe Martanda (Sun) Temple near Matan is another of the many hidden wonders of Kashmir. The first thought to cross my mind when I saw it: Why is this not more famous? The Sun Temple in Konark in Orissa is known to all, and this one deserves no less attention. Again, well maintained by the ASI. I even found a guide who showed me around – here go some factoids he shared:

• Built by Lalitaditya Muktapada circa 724-61 AD• Devri stone used for construction – without any cement – all pieces interlock with one another• Has four gates, the main one was higher than the main shrine• Weather caused a lot of stones to erode; a fire had

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caused significant damage to the structure quite some time back• Surrounding villages abandoned and resettled thrice• Images carved into the stones used in the temple include those of the rivers Ganga and Jamuna and Hindu Gods Brahma, Vishnu, Mahesh and Krishna• Platforms around the central shrine had smaller temples at one time• Water in the pool comes through channels from Sheshnag, 50 km away near Pahalgam• 84 rooms for stay make the perimeter of the compound• Foundation of the central shrine is 18 feet deep• There are earthen pots, 5” deep and 3.5” diameter sunk into the ground and were used for offerings and food.Here is a fascinating bit: How did workers place such heavy rocks atop each other? They would place these at the ground level first, then fill the whole area with mud, roll the next set atop these, fix these and fill more mud. At the end of this entire exercise, all the mud was removed to unveil a new temple shining like the sun.

Getting there: The temple is located 4 km (2.5 miles) from Matan in Anantnag district. You will have to ask for directions - don’t get wrongly directed to a more recent Sun Temple in Matan itself.

If you have ever been to Pahalgam, the vivid imagery of driving the winding roads along the Lidder river with towering peaks in the background will always stay with you. And when these sights are accentuated with a light drizzle, dusky skies and misty columns on mountain tops, happiness is the only sentiment you will feel.

God made Pahalgam for only one reason: As a place to stand back and stare. At the snow peaks (I was lucky to witness fresh snowfall), the meadows, the well manicured gardens, trees and the Lidder river gurgling amidst all this beauty. You could (I didn’t) take a pony ride to the “Dear” Park, Tulian Lake or the meadows of Baisaran if you so desired.

I chose to put my feet up and warm myself to multiple rounds of espressos and muffins at the Log Inn Café (a part of the heritage Hotel Pahalgam where I stayed). My snug room did not help the cause of the outdoors – the staff kept the traditional wood fired stove, the Bukhari, going for as long as I wanted. Ok, I did walk around too – all the time warding off guides and pony owners who wanted to show me around. Guides hankering me to engage their services had a typical statement to make:

PahaLGaM: LeavinG you bReathLeSS

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“Come on, we have only you Hindustanis to earn from.” I was later told that Kashmiris have always referred to the ‘rest of Indians’ as Hindustanis (derived from Hindustan, the land of Hindus, and another name for India). They cannot be faulted though. Kashmir was a kingdom in its own right before India gained independence and, even after the rulers agreed to annex it to India, it has been

a disputed territory. Kashmiris have never had a chance to fully be a part of India yet.

But there is one time of the year when Pahalgam must be a virtual hell: During the annual Amarnath Yatra. Thousands of pilgrims camp in Pahalgam on the way to Chandanwari, 10 miles away where the arduous trek starts. The Amarnath Cave (altitude: 3952 m / 12,966 feet)

houses an ice stalagmite in the shape of a Shivaling (the symbol of Hindu God Shiva) and is like a Mecca for Hindus. Wonder if the pretty little town can take the burden? I wanted to drive up to Chandanwari but guess what? The local taxi unions had ensured only their vehicles can go there. Or one goes by pony. No thanks to both options.

But go any other time and Pahalgam will leave you breathless.

A bedroom in Pahalgam Hotel with the wood-fired Bukhari to keep you warm The setting of the Pahalgam Hotel

the Snowy SKi SLoPeS of GuLMaRGI wish I was made of more daring – you cannot pay me to ski! No Sir, not at any price. But that did not stop me from enviously watching others effortlessly coming down the slopes of Gulmarg – one of the most scenic places on the planet for the sport. I found solace by imagining I was doing likewise – but stopped before my mind commanded my body to try something foolhardy.

Nonetheless, it was an eventful day out at Gulmarg. Here’s how (and you expect it to be likewise for yourself):

• Conned by a shop renting gumboots to walk in the snow – paid Rs. 75 against the official rate of Rs. 45.• At Tangmarg, 12 kms (8 miles) before Gulmarg, I was told to get off to register my name with the police – only to be told later Indians don’t need to. But it gave some guides an opportunity to insist I need their services.• The pesky behaviour of guides, pony owners and ski guides continued all day – stressed me, spoiling my mood.• Was not allowed to take my car to the cable car station – a half hour walk away – unless I had a hotel reservation within the skiing area. A guide promised that I could if I hired his services for Rs. 500. Chose to walk, not even take a pony. No one said anything to local youth zipping around, honking away and littering beer bottles.• Cable car ride more than worth it. Has two stops: Kongdori (3,050 m) and Affarwat (3,950 m). Hired a sledge up to get a view of the Line of Control – or border with Pakistan – where I saw a lone soldier standing guard in the snow. The futility of all this hostility! Cannot get closer – landmines have supposedly been placed in the area. Started snowing when I was there – rushed down lest bad weather leaves me stranded. • People don’t desist from throwing garbage even at these pristine spots. ****!• Saw some people ski all the way down to 2,650 m – what a feeling it must be? Why don’t I trust my clumsy self to ski too? Golf should be a safer alternative!

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There is something royal about Srinagar. You can feel it in the air. And why not? If the Mughal emperors could make the long arduous journey centuries back to Srinagar for their pleasures, they must have had good reason to. In many ways, the city has lost a lot in the over two decades of political disturbances. Fortunately though, it still retains more than enough charm for the traveller.

Srinagar lives around the Dal Lake. Much of the city’s attractions are dotted along its non-circular 26 km (16 miles) circumference; you should drive all the way around it. The entire population seems to hang around it in the evenings. Some fish (wonder if it’s legal?), others take evening walks. Groups of young boys and men can be seen drinking in their cars parked along the lake – or even shaking a leg or two on the road to the music from their car stereos. Unfortunately, a few (exceptions only) get carried away leaving beer bottles strewn around or even passing lewd comments at women. It may sound a clichéd to-do, but you have to hop on to a Shikara for a ride on the Dal Lake. I did – at first light and the last light. A few times over. Especially about 45 minutes before sunset. See the colours and reflections change all around as dusk sets in. Shop till you sink, I mean drop, while you are at it. Salesmen on Shikaras will float up to yours selling their wares – silver jewelry, paper mache gifts, fine pashmina shawls, dry fruits and more. Your Shikara guy can also take you to the ‘floating market’ – shops standing in the lake. Browse, negotiate, check the quality but buy something – this micro economy can do with some patronage.

SRinaGaR: a city fit foR RoyaLS

all afloat on the Dal Lake

The Dal Lake in evening light

A Shikara (centre) going through house boats in the Dal Lake

A salesman in a Shikara selling silver jewelry

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Aaarrrrrghh! Yes, this is the sound you will make when your alarm goes off at 4:30 a.m. It is time to head out to the daily vegetable market in the Dal Lake. Once in the Shikara, you will be glad for it.

I got a surreal feeling as I approached the market – a half an hour ride away: There was a chill in the air, the first light was still trying to get through the shroud of darkness and all I could hear was the gentle splosh as my Shikara’s oars went into and out of the water. And then they started appearing from behind the houseboats: buyers and sellers in their Shikaras, all looking like silhouettes. And at the crack of dawn, as if on cue, the area was full of Shikaras and chatter. Trading had started, like on a stock market floor.

Sellers were farmers or traders. And buyers included houseboat owners, shopkeepers in town, other traders and consumers. Mostly men, a handful of women. Trading in vegetables, fruits, flowers and seeds. How old is the market? No one knows – seems to have been around forever. Volumes pick up as days get warmer and farm produce increases.

I ended up with a Shikara full of veggies, flowers and seeds – purchases made out of courtesy from those who agreed to be interviewed. Buy some veggies yourself – the taste will linger in your mouth long after you have left Kashmir.

Travel Tip: The market starts at the crack of dawn - it is best to be there at that time itself. Trading does not last too long, perhaps just over an hour.

Shopping for vegetables in the Dal Lake – at 5:00 am

If it’s spring, it must be Srinagar. Specifically at the Tulip Garden, an uncharacteristically wonderful creation of the Government.

The Tulip Garden comes alive for only 2-3 weeks with endless rows of tulips of many different hues. The dates naturally change a bit every year – stay alert with your bags packed to head out as soon as you hear news of their blooming. The Keukenhof Flower Gardens in Holland with their seven million bulbs may be the gold standard for tulip gazing, but I am not sure if they can match the setting in Srinagar: The Dal Lake on one side, and the mighty Himalayas in a crescent behind. A tulip in any other setting may not look as beautiful.

tulips are blooming close to home

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The Mughal Emperors must have been really fond of Kashmir – the terraced gardens they created in Srinagar are all a labour of love. Including the Shalimar, Nishat Bagh

and Chashmashahi (meaning Royal Spring). The last was cherished for its refreshing sweet water and built by Shahjahan in 1632 A.D. – very popular with picnickers, and a place

to get yourself clicked in traditional Kashmiri dresses.Having seen just some bits of Srinagar, all I can say is: Show-off city!

the Mughal Gardens: fit for royalty

The royal spring at Chashmashahi, one of the Mughal Gardens in Srinagar

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Most mosques in the country follow similar architectural models, but the Jama Masjid in Srinagar distinguishes itself as one not seen anywhere else.

Also spelled Jami Masjid and Jamia Masjid on the sign boards – it is located in the Old City known for its labyrinth of streets with old houses and handicraft shops. The largest mosque in Kashmir Valley, it is built around a central courtyard in the unique Indo-Saracenic (also known as Indo-Gothic or Mughal-

Gothic) architectural style. Built in 1402 A.D. by Sikandar But-Shikoh, it holds an undesirable record of burning down thrice in its history. The last fire was in 1674 during Aurangzeb’s rule.

I noticed everyone was carrying their shoes in the mosque (you are not allowed to wear them inside) – I had left mine unattended at the gate. All through I was being nagged with thoughts of their safety - and replacements are tough to find for a

size 11. But fortunately my fears did not come true. Phew!

During my visit at the mosque, I could not help visualizing the range of creative and technical talent available in times gone by. We cannot even imagine modern structures looking as striking as the one I was at. And what is left for us to see is probably just the tip of the iceberg - so much of what has been lost over time will never be known.

Jama Masjid: heavenly architecture

The Jama Masjid in Srinagar

Jama masJid in fiGures

• Dimensions: 381 feet x 384 feet• Built-up Area: 146,000 sq ft• Number of Deodhar wood pillars supporting the ceiling: 378 (346 pillars: 21’ high, 5’ girth; 32 pillars: 48’ high, 6’ girth)• Capacity: 33,333 people

The Deodhar wood pillars supporting the ceiling in one of the halls of Jama Masjid – must have been quite an effort.

Especially doing it thrice over – after every fire at the mosque.

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Don’t try arguing the authenticity of this one: Hazratbal is the most sacred of Muslim shrines in Kashmir Valley – for it houses a single hair of the Prophet Mohammed brought a thousand years ago from Medina. It is taken out for public display only on special occasions. While the streets leading to the mosque can be chaotic, the designers sure chose a pleasant site for the building. Dusks and dawns can be particularly enchanting, with light reflecting off the water of Dal Lake, and colourful skies above. Just the spot to connect with the Almighty.

The lawns had hundreds of people just sitting around – but I noticed two young veiled women in particular. And they must have noticed me too – their eyes seemed to be following my camera and me all over. Still wondering how they would have reacted had I gone up to them to strike a conversation – would give anything to see what they looked like. Will never know.

I saw signs at both Hazratbal and Jama Masjid soliciting donations – a true Muslim is supposed to offer a percentage of his income to charity. But donors were also being advised to do so against proper receipts. I saw pre-printed ones at Jama Masjid for Rs. 20 and Rs. 50. Also read a sign at Pari Mahal that read: “If a Muslim plants a tree or sows a field, and men, beasts and birds eat from it all of it is charity on his part – Islamic Faith.” Of course, contributions are welcome from people of all faiths.

hazRatbaL: PRactiSinG faith aLonGSiDe the LaKe

The Hazratbal shrine. The beautiful structure on the banks of the Dal Lake has an uncommon architectural feature: A dome and a single minaret.

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Email: jeffrey@pinewoodtrails.com, alex@pinewoodtrails.comWebsite: http://pinewoodtrails.com/contactus.html

Camp Pinewood Trails is set in the heart of Himachal Pradesh and 30 minutes drive from a small town Kandaghat on the Chail Road, Camp Pinewood Trails is surrounded by lush cedar forests. It offers unlimited options for hikes along meandering hilly trek routes. A short trek above the camp is yet another rejuvenating experience with magnificent views to greet you. Softer options are a quiet relaxing stroll around the campsite and cosy naps under the sun. Whatever you choose its bound to be memorable and invigorating.Location: Situated in the valley at Sadhupul, 12 kms away from Kandaghat on the Kandaghat-Chail road, 17 kms before Chail in Himachal Pradesh. Its well laid-out, safe, healthy and easily accessible.

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We travel.and come back With stories and images.

and We put all these great holiday ideas as the

The Kunzum Travel List is a compilation of great holiday ideas for you to choose from. From all across India, Nepal and the rest of the subcontinent. Holidays you will cherish, and remember for a lifetime. Something you will share with others and evoke envy - prompting friends to ask you more so they too can head out on the same path. All put together in the form of

books for you.

Want to have a great time travelling? Visithttp://kunzum.com/travellist

The Kunzum Travel List is currently available as an e-book in PDF format and for the iPad and Kindle.

travel list

travel listAjAy jAIN

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travel listAjAy jAIN

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travel listAjAy jAIN

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Join The annual

Dussehra ProCession

Dussehra is one of the most important Hindu festivals and marks the triumph of good over

evil; it is the day when Lord Rama slayed demon king Ravana on the battlefield. Festivities usually last 10 days across the country and are marked with fairs, prayers, theatre based on the Ramayana and burning of the effigies of Ravana and his brother and son.

A lesser known tradition is the annual procession in Old Delhi, going back to the mid-19th century. Colourfully decked up floats with actors dressed as the key characters of Ramayana start from the Cycle Market around 6:00 p.m., taking about two and a half hours to reach Ramlila Grounds; en-route they cover Dariba, Chandni Chowk, Nai Sarak, Chawri Bazaar and Ajmeri Gate. Once at Ramlila Ground, everyone watches the Ramlila, plays

based on Ramayana, before going back the same route at around 11 in the night.

While some like Lord Rama and his brother Lakshman sit with somber expressions, the demons including Ravana try to make menacing expressions and gestures at passers by. The vaid, or doctor, who treated an injured Lakshman throws spicy digestive tablets at children sending them scrambling to collect these from the street. Accompanying bands belt out both religious and Bollywood numbers.

The streets are lined with people who either come to watch this carnival, or to seek blessings from the actors regarded as Gods by the highly religious Hindus. Many try to touch the feet of the ‘Gods’ but are usually kept at bay by the ushers. You can see hundreds standing with

folded hands and heads bowed as the procession passes them. Children are happier making mocking gestures at Ravana, who obliges by trying to show his wrath.

The procession takes place for 12 days, starting on the first day of the Navratras, a ten day holy period for Hindus, and ends two days after Dussehra when Lord Rama comes back home after a 14 year exile to be greeted by his younger brother Bharat. On this day, Bharat waits at the Town Hall while Lord Rama comes in a procession through Chandni Chowk. The journey is shorter but takes longer as shopkeepers along the way keep stopping the procession to offer sweets and garlands.

Are you set for the march next time around?

DuSSehRa iS on octobeR 6 in 2011Mark this date - the processions start 10 days before this. And when you are done, you can go to the Parade Ground or the Ramlila Ground and watch the Ramlila (story of Hindu Lord Rama) being enacted on stage. Performances begin around 8:00 p.m. and go on late into the night. With plenty of food, shopping and entertaining rides to add to the fun.

An actor getting ready for the procession. All actors are volunteers who hold day jobs or are students.

No one is paid anything. You too can pitch for a role.

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An actor getting ready for the procession. A single make-up artist, Shyam Sharma, single-handedly

gets over 50 actors ready within a few hours.

Mock weapons for sale for childrenRavana’s traitor brother Vibhishana flanked by

Hindu Gods Rama and Lakshman

The vaid, or doctor, who treated an injured Lakshman

Demon King Ravana

A wedding band adding music to the festivities

A child version of Monkey God Hanumana

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safdarjung: famous for his tomb, not for who he was

safdarJunG’s TomB

Politicians can get away with a lot. In the past, and in the present. The unofficial immunity they enjoy is a

tad unfair.

Take Nawab Shuja-ud-daulah who built a tomb for his father, Mirza Abul Mansur Khan or Safdarjung. Nothing wrong with that except that he ‘pinched’ a lot of the materials from the tomb of Abdur Rahim Khan-i-Khana located in the present day Nizamuddin area near Humayun’s tomb. The removal of marble and sandstone took away some of the sheen from Rahim’s memory but added to Safdarjung’s. While the mausoleum no doubt looks beautiful, a closer inspection shows it is made of light brown stone and yellow patched marble. The Mughal empire was on the wane, and money and

workmanship were hard to come by.

But Safdarjung should be a happy man. For a noble, he sure got more than his due when it comes to the final resting place. He was the second Nawab (governor) of Oudh (Awadh), succeeding his uncle Saadat Khan in 1739. The latter poisoned himself when Nadir Shah took Delhi and heaped insults on him. Safdarjung automatically became the Wazir (Prime Minister) of the Mughal empire too, under Muhammad Shah at the time. In 1752, he was dismissed by the succeeding emperor, Ahmad Shah, in favour of Ghaziuddin Imadulmulk. This led to a civil war between Safdarjung and Imadulmulk but the former was not a distinguished soldier and lost. He returned to Oudh where he died in 1754.

But why did Safdarjung get a sizeable tomb when many emperors got some unmarked graves? Historians believe he was the real power behind the throne as the Wazir, and thus the honour. In modern times, he even got an airport, a flyover, a major hospital and a bunch of residential areas all named after him. But he still died a broken man. That’s politics for you.

A footnote of history has largely been forgotten: The state of Awadh virtually became independent of the Mughal empire under Safdarjung and his successors till it was annexed by the British in 1857. It emerged as a rival to Delhi in literature, music, painting and architecture and even provided the setting for Satyajit Ray’s classic movie, Shatranj Ke Khiladi (The Chess Players).

GettinG theReTake the Metro to the Jor Bagh station. The tomb is located opposite Jor Bagh and near the Safdarjung Airport, a well known landmark.

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Tamil nadu

a Toy Train you must ride

The nilGiri mounTain railway

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway at the Ooty station

Wheeeee! I am on a toy train ride. Starting from Ooty or Ootacamund, now officially

renamed Udagamandalam going downhill all the way to Mettuppalayam in Tamil Nadu. And it figures in UNESCO’s World Heritage List.

The train passes through some picturesque tea estates, the Nilgiris mountains, villages and towns with some retaining their old world charm - and skies with changing colours towards evening especially when there is a cloud cover. The train negotiates 208 curves, 13 tunnels and 250 bridges.

You could refer to it as a toy train, but it is a real one. Going back to 1886 when the Nilgiri Railway Company started work on laying the line between Mettuppalayam and Coonoor, eventually completing it in 1899. They used the ‘Alternate Biting Teeth’ technology in the ‘Rack and Pinion’ arrangement between rails. Its gradient of 1:12 is the steepest in Indian Railways. The Government bought the company in 1903 and extended the line to Udagamandalam

(Ooty) by 1908. The 46 kms (29 miles) journey takes the train from 6159 feet (1877 m) altitude in Mettupalayam to 7228 feet (2203 m) in Ooty. You could plan a marathon along its tracks - a full course is 42.195 kms (26 miles 385 yards).

A few years back, a diesel was introduced for the leg between Coonor and Ooty - it is a treat watching the process of changing to a steam locomotive at Coonor or vice versa. Watch out for the water spraying from the engines.

Trains have an official schedule, but they rarely stick to these. Mine left Ooty 30 minutes late, while the return leg got delayed in Coonoor by a couple of hours! To kill my boredom, I walked on the tracks to the next station, Wellington, and still had to wait a while there. If you decide to walk on the tracks, be sure to be wearing thick soled shoes. The stones between and along the tracks can be quite a bother. It may be

warm in the day, but do carry a light jacket - can be a bit chilly in the evening especially with open windows.

It is best to book a first class seat in advance on the net. You may not get tickets on the spot, and the other classes are too cramped to fully enjoy the views. The upper class is towards the end, giving you views from that part of the bogey too. And the bigger windows here add to the joys of looking out. Try to get a window seat. But the computerized booking may not allow you to pick and choose. Suggestion? Block a few extra seats. Tickets are cheap.

If you are putting your head out to take pictures, be careful you don’t take a knock against mountain sides, trains and poles. The train was slow, but moved faster than the one in Matheran I think. You may fancy the idea, but I don’t think you can walk / jog along the train and keep up with it.

Carry water and some snacks with you - you may not be able to get any if you are just going for a ride and back.

ScheDuLeS can eaSiLy Go haywiRe

56141 / Coonoor-Udagamandalam Pass / 07:45 – 09:0556136 / Mettupalayam-Udagamandalam Pass / 07:10 – 12:0056143 / Coonoor-Udagamandalam Pass / 12:35 – 13:5056138 / Coonoor-Udagamandalam Pass / 16:30 – 17:4556139 / Udagamandalam-Coonoor / 09:15 – 10:2056142 / Udagamandalam-Coonoor / 12:15 – 13:2056137 / Udagamandalam-Mettupalayam Pass / 14:00 – 17:3556140 / Udagamandalam-Coonoor / 18:00 – 19:10

You could just do the Ooty - Coonoor segment or go all the way down to Mettuppalayam - or the other way round. And do the return leg by road which would be much quicker. Do book tickets in advance at www.irctc.co.in.

Travel Tips

MoRe in the KunzuM tRaveL LiStThe toy train of Ooty features in the Kunzum Travel List, a compilation of great travel ideas for you.

Grab your copy at http://kunzum.com/travelist.

the ScheDuLe (can chanGe oveR tiMe)Read as TRain numbeR / FRom – To / depaRTuRe – aRRivaL

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway going through the woods

The Coonor railway station for the Nilgiri Mountain Railway where the diesel / steam engines interchange

A sign for travellers on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Ooty, Tamil Nadu

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JodhPurfood, bazaars, history - it all happens here

You go to Jodhpur to savour the famed mirchi vada. It does not get better than this. And in

between mouthfulls, treat yourself to all else that is wonderful in this city.

The yummiest stuff is prepared in kiosks in the main bazaars around the Clock Tower. The star outlet is ‘Shahi Samosa’ which offers samosas, bread pakoras, badi pyaza ki kachori, mogar ki kachori and mirchi vadas hot and deep-fried in oversized woks. The proprietor Anand Prakash Arora claims credit for the recipe behind the famous mirchi vadas – the

secret behind their unique flavour lies in the giant green chillies sourced from nearby farms.

If the spices get too hot for you, head to Shri Mishrilal Hotel nearby for some sweet jalebis or rabri. Or to gulp down a glass of their makhania lassi (buttermilk). They also serve many other sweets and savories. All these shops have queues waiting even before they pull up their shutters at opening time.

For variety, seek out Ram Kishen in the Sardar Market on the other side of the big clock. He sells a thousand eggs a day (must be some kind of a record) in the form of omelettes and boiled eggs with sliced bread. And he has been at it since 1974, from 10 a.m. to midnight. Every day of the week.

There is no dearth of food in Jodhpur - keep walking, and surprises await at every corner. Ignore the unfortunate filth and stray dogs. And the likelihood of

falling ill is highly unlikely as the food is always fresh since it gets consumed – or more appropriately, devoured – daily!

Jodhpur’s markets are endless - you can lose yourself for hours in their labyrinthine streets. Choose from glass bangles, Jodhpuri Jutis (shoes), handicrafts, local dresses and antiques including locks and more. As if these wares were not enough, there are also scores of shops selling flavoured teas, spices, herbs, incense and perfume oils - most not made locally but trade seems to be thriving. Window shop or real shop, it is fun.

bazaaRS

fooD

raJasThan

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Built in the memory of Jodhpur’s King Jaswant Singh II in 1899, Jaswant Thada has since served as the cremation ground for the royal family. While the king was cremated in a cenotaph, a beautiful marble building stands in the centre to serve as his tomb. Four other cenotaphs are dedicated to successive rulers after him. There is nothing morbid about the place; rather, it draws tourists to its architecture and well manicured gardens. Adding a cheerful note is a pre-teen boy belting out Bollywood numbers while the music is provided by his tabla (double-headed hand-drum).

The Clock Tower with Mehrangarh Fort in the background

MehRanGaRh foRtThis fort is a fine example of how historical monuments in the country should be preserved and made tourist friendly. Kudos to the trustees. Here is a brief walk through:

• You will see red circles on the walls along the entry ramp - these mark the spots where cannons struck in a battle between Jaipur and Jodhpur states in 1808.• Look down at the city and you will know

why Jodhpur is called the Blue City - the houses are blue from the outside. Why? To differentiate themselves from others, the upper caste Brahmins or priests marked their houses as blue initially. At some point everyone else followed suit making the settlements around the fort mostly blue.• The 200-year old Chokhelao Gardens have recently been restored and are beautifully landscaped with sweet smelling plants.

• The foundation of the fort was laid on May 12, 1459 and marked as Rao Jodhaji’s Falsa. Within it also rest the remains of a boy Rajaram - he was buried alive. Superstitions of the time dictated this would make the fort impregnable. Eerie!• The walls also bear impressions of hands of royal ladies who committed Sati, the act of immolating oneself on your husband’s funeral pyre. You didn’t want to be born a woman back then.

JaSwant thaDa

Jaswant Thada

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• Take a break at Café Mehran serving western and traditional fare along with beverages.• The Elephant Seat (Hathi Howdah) Gallery showcases a unique collection of exquisite seats placed atop elephants to carry royalty and soldiers - both during peace time processions as well as on the battlefield.• Similarly, the Palanquin Gallery or Palki Khana displays palanquins used by royal ladies as a means of transport. These would be carried by at least four men called Mehers and they usually came from the eastern part of the country spanning present day Orissa, Bihar and Uttar Pradesh. • A Hookah and a dry opium stand can be seen for demonstration purposes but these are only for photo opportunities.* The Daulat Khana has a wooden handcrafted palanquin covered with gold paint. It is an early 18th century piece and a part of the war booty when Maharaja Abhay Singh defeated Gujarat’s governor

Sarbuland Khan. Other displays include swords, armours, daggers and shields - these are all ceremonial for use during marriages and social occasions but not for combat.• There is a collection of items used by royal ladies: A wooden cosmetic box inlaid with ivory containing an ivory comb, lacquer painted wooden dumbbells inlaid with ivory and a silver idol of Goddess Gangaur dressed in traditional Rajasthani costume. Women pray to her for their husband’s longevity or to find the right husband. In the age of Sati, were there any protective deities for women?• The Armoury shows the weapons actually used in the battles of yore - swords, daggers, shields, guns, cannons and more.• In 1732, Arya Singh singlehandedly made the Phool Mahal over 10-11 years using over 80 kilos of gold. He died leaving some of the work incomplete and no one was asked to take over.• There is a rich collection of Marwar

paintings, an art form that flourished in the 18th-19th centuries. Jodhpur’s court artists painted lavish scenes from life in the Maharaja’s court as also illustrations for religious texts. Artists flourished in towns like Pali and Nagaur as well as smaller domains (Thikanas), each with their own local ruler; not bound by the court, they managed to pursue many other themes thus boosting their creativity.• The museum shop offers some high quality gifts and memorabilia to take back home including T-shirts, books, playing cards, silver jewelry, bracelets, stoles and scarves, bracelets and paintings by artists trying to keep their traditions alive.• Stalls outside the museum will sell you paper mache gifts, bangles, traditional clothes and decorations.• If you are looking to research further on the history of the fort and the state, there is a well stocked centre with books and records for reference as well as for sale. Well worth looking into.

Inside the Mehrangarh Fort at nightPaper mache gifts for sale

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Houses painted blue in Jodhpur All that glitters… in Mehrangarh Fort

Cannon balls from times gone by - handle with care!

Inside the Mehrangarh Fort

Dumbbells used by queens

A palanquin in Mehrangarh Fort

Merchandise and books for sale in the store in Mehrangarh Fort A vanity case of ivory used by royal women

An elephant seat in Mehrangarh Fort

• weather: Mild winters and very hot summers. • best time to go: October to February.

• how to reach: Jodhpur is well connected by rail, air and road.• Recommended Stay: At least 2 days.

• combine trip with: Osian, Bera, Bikaner or Jaisalmer

Travel Tips

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CasTle Bera

Bera, Rajasthan

Castle Bera is one of the best kept secrets in the country. And one really wonders

why? It is an ancestral property run by

Thakur Baljeet Singh (popularly known as Winkoo Singh, and a descendant of Maharana Pratap, one of the state’s most

valiant kings) – he sure treats you like a king, and personally takes you on wildlife safaris like he takes his other royal friends.

• S e Rv i c e: Excellent. The host looks into everything himself. His staff too are efficient, with service to their ‘Masters’ a part of their DNA. The property is a part of the Mahindra Homestays chain, and Winkoo Singh takes the tag very seriously – you feel at home with all the attendant luxuries.

• Ro o M S: Each room is designed differently. Most have balconies overlooking well maintained lawns. Everything is very clean, the l inen is well laundered, the beds are comfortable, you can lounge on the sofas and unwind under hot and cold showers.

• Lo c at i o n: A l ittle away from the main highways, but that adds to the charm of the place – away from the noise and the hustle and bustle. It is also shepherd country, with people l iving and dressing as they have for generations. Of course, nothing is immune from modern progress, but there is sti l l an old world charm to this place.

• a M e n i t i eS: The host takes you on wildlife safaris to spot leopards, hyenas, antelopes, crocodiles, bears, foxes and other animals and birds twice a day. It is forest country – and not a reserve, with sightings of many of these species

almost guaranteed at anytime of the day.

• L i K e D b eSt: The property is charming, very well maintained, and the people extremely hospitable and polite. And the host knows the forests l ike the back of his hand – he grew up here, even hunting animals before it was banned.

• fo o D Q ua L i t y: Food is home cooked, tasty, clean and wholesome. And it is elaborate – each meal spoils you for a choice of dishes to choose from. And they can cook almost anything you want.

ReaD MoRe about LeoPaRD SPottinG at beRahttp://kunzum.com/2010/12/14/bera-rajasthan-welcome-to-leopard-country-it-is-wild-and-free

Castle (Rawala) Bera, Village & PO Bera via Jawai Bandh, District Pali , Rajasthan Tel: 91-2933-243186, Mobile: +91.98293 13272, +91.98298 77787

Mail: castlebera@gmail.com, Web: www.castlebera.com

Musicians to receive guests

Young Rajasthani girls waiting to receive guests with a smile The bathroom attached to the biggest bedroom

The smallest bedroom in the property

The Dining Room

The terrace with the property owner Thakur Baljeet Singh sunning himself

The biggest bedroom in the property

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The Rain Country Resort sure lives up to its name: As you go off the highway at Lakkidi on the Wayanad

– Calicut highway, and drive through tea estates and woods, you know you really are in rain country. As you drive into the resort, you cannot help giving a thumbs

up to the landscape and architecture of the same.

No matter how hard you try, you cannot hear a sound at Rain Country. Except the quacking of some ducks, the earliest ‘employees’ of the resort; no, they are

never offered on the menu. A man-made lake adds to the feeling of calm. A hike or a 4-wheel drive up to a hill behind the cottages gives you a 360 degree view of tropical forests – broken only by some mobile telephony towers. Read on for more about the place.

Cottages set in lush greens facing a man-made water body

rain CounTry resorTs

Wayanad, Kerala

Lose yourself in tropical beauty

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• S e R v i c e : The staff i s very courteous and helpful , ever ready to offer any ass istance or informat ion. They do a good job of mainta in ing the p lace, not easy when you go splash-splash in heavy ra ins hal f the year.

• R o o M S : Cottages of d i fferent des igns and s izes are spread across the 22 acre (9 hectares) estate, a l l p leas ingly des igned. These are furnished with a mix of t radit ional and modern, and very comfortable and c lean.

Bathrooms are wel l f i tted for hot and cold showers. The l inen is very c lean too. S i t-outs and verandahs with easy chairs are just what you need to have your tea and read a book.

• L o c at i o n : As ment ioned, i t i s sec luded from the world of noise and pol lut ion and yet easi ly access ib le – just 60 kms (38 mi les) f rom Cal icut (where you a lso have an internat ional a i rport) . The sett ing is stunning , amidst ro l l ing h i l l s covered with

lush green vegetat ion.

• LiKeD beSt: The setting and design of cottages.

• fooD QuaLity: Good food. You get a mix of traditional Keralite / south Indian dishes and some north Indian stuff too. Prepared in their own kitchens, it feels like light, home cooked food.

Rain Country Resorts is the place to stay when all you want to hear are some birds and you just want to be with yoursel f.

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Lakkidi P.O, Wayanad, Kerala 673 576, IndiaTel: +91.495.2511997 / 98 / 99; +91.4936.329798 / 99; +91.9447004369; +91.9447245288

Mail: resorts@raincountryresort.com, Web: www.raincountryresort.com

Verandah in one of the cottages, perfect for tea and a book

A view of the surroundings from the hill within the resort

The dining

A semi-open bathroom in one of the cottages

Sit-out in one of the cottages

A bedroom in one of the cottages

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Visualise this: You are sitting in the verandah of your cottage in grasslands extending for miles

around you. A gentle breeze is caressing your face while you sip a hot cuppa of your favourite tea, even as the setting sun lends a glow to your immediate universe. And the picture gets complete when a group of Blackbucks amble in to munch at some grass, quenching their thirst in a water hole and then look toward you, as if to say, “Isn’t it a beautiful world?”

It sure is when you are at the relatively new Blackbuck Lodge, one of the lesser known wonders of the hospitality world,

spread across 70 acres. Just being there is an uplifting experience for the soul - you are at once connected to Nature’s wondrous ways and to the cosmic. I am not exaggerating. You don’t need any spiritual or religious or yoga gurus when you are here - whatever they may offer comes without guidance if you just allow the silence and serenity here to talk to you.

The next time you have a break, head out to Velavadar and book yourself at the Blackbuck Lodge. Other than a basic forest rest house, this is the only place to stay if you are visiting the Blackbuck

National Park. If someone suggests you stay at a nearby town and come for a day visit to Velavadar, tell them there is now a much better option at the Blackbuck Lodge.

Designed to blend with its immediate environment, the cottages are aesthetically made with all modern comforts. A restaurant serves primarily decent north Indian fare, and a lounge cum library is ideal for after-dinner relaxation. The Blackbuck Lodge is one of those places you go for a reason - or none at all. Check in, sit back and watch the magic of this world unfold.

The BlaCKBuCK lodGe

Velavadar, Gujarat

Where blackbucks come calling at your verandah

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• R o o M S : The cottages are as good as they get . Luxur ious ly furnished, with h igh qual i ty l inen and l ight f i tt ings . Rooms are spacious, with k ing beds, a study table and chair and space created by the windows to s i t with your legs stretched out - or even for a chi ld to s leep. Air-condit ioning is very effect ive for warm days, or you can enjoy fresh a ir on the deck chairs in the verandah - ideal for sunbathing and watching Blackbucks. The bathrooms are b ig too, with a tub and shower. There is a separate shower open-to-the-sky too; i t ’s fun, and no one can see you! Surpr is ingly, each cottage has a f lat screen

te lev is ion set connected to a d ish for c lear recept ion. There are fac i l i t ies to make your tea / coffee in the room.

• S e R v i c e : Impeccable. You can see the staff tak ing pains to ensure the newly bui l t resort i s wel l kept . Many a property lose their mint condit ion look after a whi le , but that does not look l ike happening here. We sure hope so!

• L o c at i o n : Unbeatable. Surrounded by wi ld country a l l around, with barely any man-made structures to mar the v iews. The park gates are about

hal f a mi le away, but you don’t even need to go there a l l the t ime when Nature’s creat ions come to you in your lodge anyway.

• a M e n i t i e S : You can go for safar is in your own car, or book one in the lodge’s o ld Wi ley jeeps. Other amenit ies inc lude a l ibrary with comfortable sofas .

• L i K e D b e S t: The locat ion and the des ign of the cottages.

• f o o D Q ua L i t y: Meals are made us ing fresh ingredients , taste good and served in f ine crockery. There are no other eat ing opt ions in the nearby v ic in i ty.

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A bedroom

The Bathroom

A Water Hole for Blackbucks

Open air seating for dining Another view of the library buildingThe Verandah to sunbathe or watch

Blackbucks over tea

Open to Sky shower

The Dining Building

The Library building

The Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar National Park, Dist. Bhavnagar, Bhal, Saurashtra, Gujarat, IndiaTel: +91.79.40020901 / 02 / 03, +91.98240 19877, +91.96387 37754,

+91.278.2920192, +91.92280 00496Mail: reservations@theblackbucklodge.com, Web: http://www.theblackbucklodge.com

I had been to all properties of Banjara Camps over the last three years –

except the one at Thanedar. Had passed the place many times already on the way to or from Sangla, but always skipped it. And when I finally visited it recently, it left me ruing all the missed opportunities.

Along with Shoja and Sangla, Thanedar forms what you would call the Himalayan

Golden Triangle (using the phrase Banjara themselves use – the other famous Golden Triangle is Delhi, Jaipur and Agra). And like the other two, it is a gem where you need not even step out of the property to have a good time.

Its location looks down into the valley and the surrounding high peaks seem at eye level. But it is the apple orchards

that are its best charm. When I visited, autumn had shorn them of all leaves. But from the photographs I saw, they are full of the rosy fruit around August – September. Go in March to see India’s own apple and cherry blossoms. But the changing climatic patterns means the dates for the flowers and fruits are no longer predictable and there can be a variation of a few weeks.

BanJara orChard reTreaT

Thanedar, Himachal Pradesh

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• S e R v i c e : W h a t e v e r y o u w a n t , w h e n e v e r y o u w a n t – t o t h e e x t e n t o f w h a t i s p o s s i b l e i n t h e m o u n t a i n s .

• R o o M S : N o t h i n g f a n c y w i t h b a s i c b u t f u n c t i o n a l f u r n i t u r e . I m p o r t a n t l y, t h e b e d s h e e t s , b l a n ke t s a n d p i l l o w s a r e v e r y c l e a n . M a t t r e s s e s a r e s u i t e d t o y o u r b a c k . Yo u g e t h o t w a t e r b o t t l e s o n r e q u e s t t o ke e p y o u r f e e t w a r m i n t h e b e d . W i n d o w s w i t h f u l l g l a s s o f f e r g r e a t v i e w s o f t h e l a n d s c a p e a n d a l l o w e n o u g h l i g h t a n d w a r m t h t o c o m e i n . T h e r e a r e a m p l e p o w e r p o i n t s t o c h a r g e d e v i c e s a n d

t h e r o o m i s w e l l l i t . B a t h r o o m s h a v e e l e c t r i c g e y s e r s f o r h o t w a t e r a n d t h e s h o w e r w o r k s w e l l ; i f t h e r e i s n o p o w e r, y o u c a n g e t h o t w a t e r i n a b u c ke t f r o m t h e k i t c h e n .

• e L e c t R i c i t y: D i d n o t l o o k l i ke t h e r e w a s a p r o b l e m . I t i s s t i l l a d v i s a b l e t o ke e p y o u r g a d g e t s c h a r g e d a n d w a t e r i n t h e b a t h r o o m g e y s e r w a r m s h o u l d t h e p o w e r g o o f f a t t h e w r o n g t i m e .

• L o c at i o n : H a r d t o b e a t !

• f o o D : Tr a d e m a r k B a n j a r a .

D o e s n o t g e t b e t t e r – i n a n y p r o p e r t y I h a v e s t a y e d i n I n d i a i n c l u d i n g l u x u r y c h a i n s . A m a z i n g h o w t h e y ke e p s t o c k s o f a l m o s t a l l t h a t i s n e e d e d f o r t h e s e a s o n – a n d e v e r y m e a l c o m e s o u t f r e s h , h o t , l i p s m a c k i n g a n d e l a b o r a t e – w i t h o u t f e e l i n g t o o h e a v y o n t h e s t o m a c h . N o t h i n g w i l l s t o p y o u g o i n g f o r w a l k s !

• c o n n e c t i v i t y: M o s t m o b i l e n e t w o r k s a n d d a t a c a r d s w o r k – t h e t o w e r s a r e j u s t a f e w h u n d r e d m e t r e s a w a y. T h e d o w n s i d e ? T h e s e t o w e r s a r e a n e y e s o r e i n t h e H i m a l a y a s .

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Banjara Camps & Retreats Pvt. Ltd., 1A, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi-110 016, IndiaTel: +91.11.2685 5152 /53, 2686 1397

Email: info@banjaracamps.com, Web: http://www.banjaracamps.com

When you call, ask for a SPECIAL offer for Kunzum fans.

A picture may be worth a thousand words

But the Kunzum PhotoTalkies are a journey in themselves

What are phototalkies? Simply put, these are photo essays - only packing

a bigger punch. With more images and supporting text than an essay you would see in a newspaper or a magazine. Current versions have been designed as a PDF - to be viewed on any device supporting this

format. But it is best seen on an iPad.

And these are all FREE! Looks like it is the season of freebies from Kunzum.

http://kunzum.com/phototalkies

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PEEP PEEP DON’T SLEEPa book on funny road signs and advertisements with captions

and commentary by ajay Jain

If you thought road signs are only meant to guide and inform, think again.

The ones on Indian highways are in a zone of their own. They shower you with words of wisdom, keep your mind sharp as you unravel their cryptic messages, tickle your imagination, amuse you and entertain you. In public interest, they lend a hand to Alcoholics Anonymous. Since journeys are meant to be a pleasure, they remind you to ‘Smile Please.’

The entertainment for the traveler does not stop at this. There are the limitless public notices, outdoor advertisements and storefront signs with their own idiosyncrasies and eccentricities. Who needs comic strips in this country?

Ajay Jain drove thousands of miles to put together this collection of signs. With a bit of witty commentary thrown in, this book will be a journey unlike any other you may have undertaken. Resulting in you letting out a ‘Peep Peep’ of delight.

for more on the book, sample chapters and to order visitwww.peeppeepdontsleep.com

Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle

Medhavi Gandhi (Happy Hands Foundation, http://www.happyhands.in) has a great job:

she travels all the time on a mission to preserve endangered cultural traditions, arts and crafts of India. Medhavi recently landed in Jhabua, a tribal district in Madhya Pradesh, and cannot stop talking about it. Some sound bites:

“An unconventional way to spend a long weekend is a trip to Jhabua. It is an ideal spot for spending a quiet time amidst the lush green jungles and for enjoying the pleasant rains. Jhabua is home to several traditional crafts like doll making, block printing and Pithora paintings. The aadivasis still make bows and arrows and weave baskets (locally known as Bodhnis) to sell at the Sunday Market. Jhabua is also central for traveling to Baroda/Indore. About a 100 kms off Jhabua is Alirajpur. The Monday Market at Alirajpur has much to offer: tribal crafts, including hand-woven jackets made in the traditional style, exquisite bows and arrows, paintings and more. The locals are extremely helpful if you happen to wander too far, so no worries! Move a little further down Alirajpur and to be a greeted by a paradise called Kathiwara, also dubbed as ‘mini-Kashmir’ by locals. In case Kashmir isn’t your flavour, about

35 kms from here lies ‘Chota Udaipur.’

Jhabua is also famous for a local Shiv temple where a magical stream flows. It is believed that several years ago, a sage had prayed for a little water to be available at all times to wash himself before praying. He got a stream still

flowing here with absolutely no visible source. The district of Jhabua provides an ongoing treat for travelers to look around and explore.

Getting there: The nearest railhead is Meghnagar on the Delhi-Mumbai route; Jhabua is a half hour drive from here.

Go exploring the Krem Mawmluh caves near Shillong in Meghalaya - a wonderland awaits within. Try finding a river that disappears mysteriously into the ground, admire calcite formations and walk through waist deep pools. Walk across the 150-200 years old living root bridges made of entwined roots of Ficus trees at the Nongriat village. Discover the

Krem Ri Blai caves that have only partly been mapped and surveyed, and could potentially be the longest caves in the area. Visit the Mawlynnong village, considered the cleanest village in India, and experience an ethnic style of living; check into a traditional village guesthouse constructed from bamboo and thatch.

how do you get there? High on Travel will take you for Rs. 16,500 per person for a minimum group size of five, for a five day experience which starts and ends at Shillong. To know more, visit http://highontravel.com/caving_meghalaya or write to info@highontravel.com.

medhavi Gandhi goes to Jhabua in madhya Pradesh

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the holiday season is back, and we all want to make the most of every minute we are out travelling. but jet lag can be a party-pooper for those taking flights to distant lands. not necessarily, if we just follow these steps:

• Start well rested. Jet lag hits a tired, badly slept body harder than others.

• Walk, eat light and shower: Try to reach your destination in the evening. As soon as you check-in, go for a 30-35 minutes brisk walk. The exercise will do you good and also familiarize you with the neighbourhood. Follow this up with a light meal, a shower and a good night’s sleep to wake up fresh as a daisy, full of energy.

• Get to your time zone before your flight does. Even at home, set your watch to your destination’s time zone a day before you leave. And try to eat and sleep according to the new time.

• Sleep well on board. Dress comfortably, use ear plugs and eye masks to ensure you have ample undisturbed sleep.

• Drink plenty of water. Alcohol and caffeine cause dehydration, and also serve as alarms waking you up intermittently. These also stem the body’s production of melatonin, a hormone produced by the body to set the time clock. Keep sipping at water. Colas and juices are no substitutes. Don’t drink yourself silly just because there is free wine on board.

• Move your body. Stretch in your seat or in the open space near the exits and walk around the aisles. But don’t go bumping into flight attendants and knocking trays over. Walk at airports too.

• Eat light in the flight. Avoid salted foods and snacks as these raise blood pressure. Carry plain almonds for when you feel like munching something.

• Don’t pop in sleeping pills. These induce a comatose state, and increase chances of death caused by blood clotting sometimes experienced on long-haul flights.

• Soak in the sunlight when you land. A 15-minute exposure to the sun or bright lights help alleviate symptoms of jet lag.• Take a shower, but don’t nap after you land. Ensure your body accepts the new bio-cycle. Sleep when it should be time to do so.

• Wake up and sweat it out a bit. Always a good idea to exercise in the mornings following a flight. This fights any remains of jet lag besides keeping you fitter.

If jet lag still gets you in its grip, don’t fret. If you are up at four in the morning, step out and observe the city waking up. You will be surprised at what the crack of dawn holds for you. Have a safe flight.

DON’T BE JeT-laGGed THIS HOLIDAy SEASON

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Postcards from Ladakha Pictorial travelogue by ajay Jain

postcards from Ladakh is a collection of frames - picture postcards, if you will - frozen circa 2009, when the author drove for over 10,000 kms (6,000 miles) across the remote and fascinating region of Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas. Neither guidebook nor encyclopedia, it is intended to give you a flavour of this high altitude cold desert.

You will also meet a few Ladakhis in these pages. And see the land they live in, the faith they live by, the hope they live on…Each of them will spontaneously greet you with a cheerful Julley and invite you to be part of their culture and society.

No Ladakhi is a stranger. We just haven’t had the time to meet them all...

for more on the book, sample chapters and to order visitwww.kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh

Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle

viswaprasad Raju is a hyderabad-based advertising professional, and is also a random sketchcrawler, a weekly cartoonist and an occasional travel writer. he collects cheap souvenirs like coasters and dreams of expensive holiday breaks to a national Park (any state) or anywhere in europe (any country). Presently he is working on a screenplay

for a feature film. connect with him at viswaprasadraju@gmail.com or find him at

http://facebook.com/viswaprasadraju and http://hyderabadadvtg.blogspot.com.

They do not make too many travel authors like Mark Shand. The Englishman made headlines when

he decided to buy an elephant and travel more than a thousand kilometres on it in India, inspiring two brilliant books, Travels on My Elephant and Queen of the Elephants in the nineties. In the new millennium, he decided to travel once again in India, down the Brahmaputra river actually, and do so with canine, rather than pachydermic company. Most people would have laughed at the notion of trying to travel down the river with a dog, but Shand, being the obstinate type, does right that. And once again, comes out with an extremely entertaining book of how he went about it all – River Dog: A Journey Down the Brahmaputra.

And as in his previous books, Shand’s accounts of his adventures are extremely entertaining. From negotiating deals with boatmen to trying to find a dog to ending up in a sex shop while trying to buy a chain for the aforementioned canine and then actually having a long conversation with the dog when under the effect of opium, Shand does it all and with utterly charming and humorous elan to boot. And just as he did in his Travels on My Elephant, Shand elevates just about every incident to the level of high adventure with his skilful narration. As in that book, he has his companions in travel, the most outstanding of whom is Aditya Patankar, whom he refers to as the Great Maratha, and who was also seen in the elephant books. In fact, Shand’s description of Patankar perfectly encapsulates his ability to make even the mundane extremely entertaining (if a trifle inaccurate historically):

“Aditya was a Maratha nobleman, a direct descendant of the fierce clan that had ravaged India in the seventeenth and

eighteenth centuries. A man of legendary ingenuity and resource, he would not, I knew, consider my request (for a dog) in any way out of the ordinary.”Sure enough, Patankar gets Shand a dog, insisting that he take a street dog rather than a high-class breed because, “They are hard as nails. They eat anything – anything. They are survivors. ” He also keeps trying to ensure that Mark keeps his feet grounded in reality, given his penchant for the romantic. He succeeds sometimes, but for the most

part, Shand is pretty much a literary force let loose on the Brahmaputra and its banks. In fact, the only disappointing facet of the book is that he does not actually spend more time on the river – he actually gets on to the river well into the book. But that is a sin that is easy to forgive, given the sheer volume of entertainment that Shand doles out.

Truth be told, River Dog is not really about

how Shand went down the mighty river. If you are looking for an account replete with geographical, historical and social detail, this is not the book for you. It will not open your eyes to new aspects of the Brahmaputra or the regions it flows through. Nay, River Dog is the story of an eccentric, but lovable, Englishman who wants to travel in a different manner and does so, notwithstanding all the natural and bureaucratic barriers that pop up in his path. Unlike many travel writers who

love to spend time describing things, Shand is more at home talking to the people he meets on his travels – River Dog is brimming with conversations, from the simple to the sane to the utterly eccentric. And this gives the book a very human touch – you feel you are actually with Shand, a sensation that most authors aspire for, but few succeed in accomplishing. Some readers might think that Shand trivialises things too much to draw laughter and at times adopts a tone that is close to patronising, but there can be no doubting his love for travel, for his friends, for India and of course, the dog who accompanies him along the Brahmaputra, Bhaiti.

When you put down River Dog (and we assure you that you will do so within a couple of days of starting it – so well does it flow) you might not end up knowing too much more about the river and the regions surrounding it, but you will definitely have learnt a lot about some of the most colourful

characters that have inhabited the pages of travel literature. And it is a fair chance that you will be smiling.

River Dog is not a book about charting out and going on a journey, it is about enjoying the ride, with all its pitfalls and potholes. And that is what we really believe travel is all about. If you love travel, this is just the book for you.

GlorIouSly eCCentrIC And entertAInInGBy Nimish Dubey

river dogB

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Since 2007, Kunzum has served as an important guide for t ravel lers planning journeys in India and the subcont inent - and some internat ional dest inat ions too.

IntroduCtIonS FIrSt…Kunzum is a high al t i tude pass in the Lahaul Spi t i region of Himachal Pradesh in India. And the inspirat ion behind the brand that is al l about memorable t ravel exper iences. Our journey started in 2007 as a t ravel b log by wr i ter and photographer, Ajay Jain. And we have crossed many mi lestones - l i teral ly and f igurat ively - s ince then.

KunZuM.CoMAn independent, objective and one of the most trusted online travel information websites in India. A unique style of writ ing, peppered with anecdotes and il lustrated with high quality photographs and videos, have won the site a fan following of tens of thousands of travellers. More at http://kunzum.com.

neW: tHe KunZuM trAVel MAGA u n i q u e p r o d u c t , i t i s a m o n t h l y e - m a g a v a i l a b l e a s a P D F, f o r t h e i P a d a n d K i n d l e , a n d f o r o n l i n e r e a d i n g w i t h f l i p p i n g p a g e s o n I s s u u . c o m . S u b s c r i p t i o n i s F R E E a t h t t p : / / k u n z u m .c o m / m a g .

PuBlISHInGWe p u b l i s h e n g a g i n g a n d q u a l i t y t r a v e l b o o k s a n d g u i d e s i n b o t h t r a d i t i o n a l f o r m a t s a s w e l l a s e - b o o k s ( f o r t h e i P a d , A m a z o n ’s K i n d l e , o t h e r m o b i l e r e a d e r s a n d a l l c o m p u t e r s ) . M o r e a t h t t p : / / k u n z u m . c o m / b o o k s .

CurAtor oF ColleCtIBle PHotoGrAPHIC ArtAva i lab le fo r your wa l ls a t home, o f f i ce o r resor t and a lso as s tock imagery fo r pub l i sh ing and promot iona l mater ia ls . A l l p r in ted on arch iva l paper to las t genera t ions . The pr ints are also on display at the Kunzum Travel Café. Check the col lect ion at ht tp: / /kunzumgal lery.com.

KunZuM trAVel CAFÉAnother unique offering from Kunzum - a bricks and mortar place for the travel-minded to come together as a community, a sort of Face-to-Facebook network. Located in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, guests can hang around, read travel books, use free Wi-Fi, participate in events, exchange stories, enjoy music, buy photographic art, post travelogues and make travel plans. They can even order tea, coffee and cookies - and pay what they like. More at http://kunzum.com/travelcafe.

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F a c e b o o kh t t p : / / f a c e b o o k . c o m / k u n z u m

tw i t t e rh t t p : / / t w i t t e r . c o m / k u n z u m

yo u tu b eh t t p : / / y o u t u b e . c o m / k u n z u m

V i m e oh t t p : / / v i m e o . c o m / k u n z u m

ContACt uS

Ajay jain | ajay@ajayjain.com | +91.99100 44476

Shruti Sharma | shruti@kunzum.com | +91.98119 84545

lInKS

online

http:/ /kunzum.com

ABout AjAy jAInAjay Jain is a full t ime writer, journalist and photographer based in New Delhi in India. He is not l imited in his medium of expression, equally comfortable writing for newspapers and magazines, as well as his own books and blogs.

Starting his writing career in 2001, he has been covering business, technology and youth affairs before deciding to focus wholly on travel writing. He pursues his passion by being on the road as much as he can.

He has written three books, the latest being Postcards from Ladakh (http://www.kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh), a pictorial travelogue on Ladakh. His f irst, Let ’s Connect: Using LinkedIn to Get Ahead at Work, is a management book on professional networking using the world’s most popular professional networking site LinkedIn.com. It was published in early 2008. His other book, and his f irst travel book, Peep Peep Don’t Sleep (http://www.peeppeepdontsleep.com), is a collection of funny road signs and advertisements.

H e h a s wo r ke d fo r a n d w r i t te n co l u m n s fo r n at i o n a l p u b l i cat i o n s i n I n d i a i n c l u d i n g T h e H i n d u sta n T i m e s , M i nt , F i n a n c i a l E x p re s s , I n d i a n M a n a ge m e nt ( B u s i n e s s S ta n d a rd ) , O u t l o o k B u s i n e s s , D e c ca n H e ra l d , M u m b a i M i r ro r ( T i m e s o f I n d i a ) , D i s co ve r I n d i a , Swa gat , A s i a n A ge a n d Re d i f f. co m . H e h a s a l s o e d i te d a yo u t h n e ws p a p e r, T h e C a m p u s Pa p e r.

P r i o r to ta k i n g u p w r i t i n g , h e h a s wo r ke d i n t h e I n fo r m at i o n Te c h n o l o g y a n d S p o r t s M a n a ge m e nt s e c to rs . H e h o l d s d e g re e s M e c h a n i ca l E n g i n e e r i n g ( D e l h i C o l l e ge o f E n g i n e e r i n g , 1 9 9 2 ) , M a n a ge m e nt ( Fo re S c h o o l o f M a n a ge m e nt , 1 9 9 4 ) a n d J o u r n a l i s m ( C a rd i f f U n i ve rs i t y, U K , 2 0 0 2 ) . H i s s c h o o l i n g wa s at S t . C o l u m b a ’s S c h o o l i n N e w D e l h i .

CO N TAC TE m a i l : a j ay @ a j ay j a i n . co mM o b i l e : + 9 1 . 9 9 1 0 0 4 4 4 7 6

L I N KSFa c e b o o k : h t t p : / / fa c e b o o k . co m /a j ay j a i n 9

Tw i tte r : h t t p : / / t w i t te r. co m /a j ay j a i n L i n ke d I n : h t t p : / / w w w. l i n ke d i n . co m / i n /a j ay j a i n 9