KNT 305

Module Title: Knitwear Design- Fully FashionedModule Code: KNT-305Semester: 8th (FDT) & 6th (AMMT)

MODULE LEADER: Md. Lablu Miah

TEAM MEMBER: Zafar Alam Bhuiyan Moinuddin Ahmed

Apparel Manufacturing Management and Technology Shanto –Mariam University of Creative Technology

Updated On: February 11, 2012

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Module Specification on KNT-305

Module Title: Knitwear Design-Fully Fashioned Module Code: KNT-305 Year of Study: Third (6th semester AMM,) Fourth (8th Semester, FD) Contact Hours: Lecture-1.5hrs/ Week. (15th Week) Total Hour: 22.5 Assessment Method: Assignment, Class test & Midterm Exam 40% Assignment, Class test & Final Exam 60% Prerequisite Course: nil Credits: 1.5

Aims: This module is intended to give students’ knowledge and skill in the creation of Fully Fashioned knitwear products in order to underpin all aspects of Textile Technology & Clothing study.

Objectives: By the end of the module, students will be able to demonstrate: ● Analyse the knitting methods of different product ● Understand different knit designs ● Understand the working procedure of different knitting machines ● Analyse quality assurance systems in knitting

Syllabus Outline and Teaching Plan: Lectures and Practical Studio

1. Introduction to fully fashioned knitwear2. Production methods3. Specifications for flat bar, straight bar and circular machines4. Design principles and knitting action of V-bed flat machines5. Garment length machines; Rib and Interlock double jersey machines6. Single knit structure and their developments7. Double knit structure and their developments8. Mid term Assessment9. Machine profiles for a knitting factory10. Production processing of knitted garments11. Sweater knitting stitches and designs; Cable, diamond12. Analysis of knitting yarns13. Production and shaping calculation14. Diversification of stitches, loops: end-uses15. Quality assurance and quality control

Class Contact & Teaching Pattern: Lectures 22.5 (1.20hr/week)

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Learning Outcomes After completing this module the student should be able to: ● Understand the basic principles of constructing fully fashioned knitwear and their impact on fabric properties ● Develop an understanding of quality control process for fully fashioned knitwear ● Analyse fabric structure and gauge

Textbooks:Blackberry T-Knitted Clothing Technology-Blackwell Science 1992Lyer, Mammel, Schach- Circular knitting

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MODULE OUTLINE- LECTURE/PRACTICAL LESSON TOPIC SCHEDULESession date- March 2012>August 2012Course Title- BA (Hon’s) in Apparel Manufacturing Management and TechnologyModule Code- KNT-305 Module Title- Knitwear Design-Fully Fashioned

Semester-6th (AMM), 8th (FD) Contact Hrs/Week- 1.5 hrs (22.5 hrs)

Academic Team: Engr. Md. Lablu Miah, Zafar Alam Bhuiyan, Moinuddin Ahmed

Week Lecture Topic Schedule 1 Introduction to Fully fashioned knitwear.2 Manufacturing process of Fully fashioned knitwear (Sweater garments).3 Specification for Flat bar, Straight bar & Circular machines.4 Knitting action of V-bed flat knitting machine.5 Class test & discussion on Assignment/ Factory Visit 6 Features of Garment length m/c, Rib and Interlock m/c7 Single and Double knit structure.8 Sweater gauges.9 Styling of Sweater.

Midterm Examination10 Types of Stitches and Designs used in fully fashioned items.11 End-uses and diversification of stitches and designs.12 Analysis of Sweater knitting yarn.13 Taking a class test & discussion on Assignment.14 Machine profiles of a Sweater factory.15 Shaping calculation of sweater garments16 Quality guidelines of sweaters17 Yarn consumption calculation and Costing of Sweater garments.18 Review and Problem solving class.

Assessment Procedure:

Mid term Examination: 40

Attendance : 05Class test : 10Assignment : 05Mid term exam: 20

Final Examination: 60

Attendance : 05Class test : 10Assignment : 15Final exam : 30

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Reference books:

1) Spencer David J- Knitting Technology2) Taylor M- The Technology of Textile Properties- Blackwell Publications3) Circular Knitting- Lyer, Mammel & Schach4) The Technology of Textile Properties- Taylor M5) Fabric Manufacturing Technology I – Engr. Md. Mamutazur Rahaman6) Fabric Manufacturing Technology II – Engr. Md. Mamutazur Rahaman

Course materials: Class note, articles and case study

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Week: 01Lecture: 01

Lecture Title: Introduction to fully fashioned knitwear

Knit garments: Knit garments are basically three types:

1. Cut and sew knit garments.2. Fully Fashioned shape knitwear.3. Complete knitted garments.

#Cut and Sew knit garments:

The cut and sew technique is by far the simplest method of garment construction whereby individual panel shapes are cut to size from panels (V bed or flat bed) or from a long length of fabric or cloth (circular knitting machines).

Benefits of Cut & Sew Knitting:

The benefits of the cut and sew route includes the followings:

1) Ease speed of knitting of fabric2) Total consistency of cut panel sizes and relative ease of garment make-up.

3) The downside is that the seams have to be over-locked prior to sewing or linking to prevent the exposed stitches from laddering.

4) This produces a seam that is relatively large, bulky and unsightly.

Disadvantages of Cut & Sew Knitting:

1) The cut and sew route is not widely used for wool knitwear production2) The material wastage (up to 25%) and perceived “lower quality” image makes it less

appealing.

#Fully Fashioned Shaped Knitwear :

1) Shaped knitwear is engineered to size and shaped at the point of knitting.2) It is very distinctive and easily identifiable by the “fashioning marks” which normally run

parallel to the garment seams.

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3) The garment panels are assembled using “cup seaming” and “linking” where usually the garment sides, sleeves and underarms are cup seamed and the shoulders and collars are linked.

4) The difference between linking and seaming is that with linking a stitch per stitch joint results whereas cup seaming stitches the edges of the fabrics together.

Fully Fashioned Knitting Machine:

Fully-fashioned knitting machines are flat knitting machines that produce custom pre-shaped pieces of a knitted garment. Instead of knitting a whole rectangular sheet of fabric, instructions from a knit pattern on a punch card or computer file guide a fully-fashioned knitting machine's needles to add or drop stitches to create custom two dimensional shapes appropriate to the desired finished garment structure. The pieces emerge from the machine ready to be sewn together.

#Complete Knitted Garments:

Complete garment knitting is a next-generation form of fully-fashioned knitting that adds the capability of making a 3-dimensional full garment. Unlike other fully-fashioned knitting, where the shaped pieces must still be sewn together, finished complete knitted garments do not have seams. The knitting machines' computerized instructions direct movement of hundreds of needles to construct and connect several tubular knitted forms to create a complete garment in a single production step.

Advantages of Complete Garment Knitting:

The complete garment system's advantages lie in:

1) A further reduction in materials beyond even fully-fashioned production by eliminating seam allowances.

2) Faster time to market by eliminating the need for sewing any components. These factors increase cost-effectiveness (especially important when using high-performance materials such as aramids for composites).

3) One might also argue that cutting down on wasted by-product selvage makes complete garment better for the environment.

Two companies manufacture complete garment knitting machines: Shima Seiki and Stoll.

Name of Fully fashioned knit garments:

1) Sweater2) Cardigan3) Tights

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http://www.stoll.com/

http://www.shimaseiki.com/product/knit/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selvage

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aramid

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fully-fashioned_knitting

4) Stockings5) Lingerie, etc

Week: 02Lecture: 02

Lecture Title: Manufacturing process of fully fashion knitwear (sweater garments)

Manufacturing Management: Manufacturing management means the confirming of overall management system to the each & every process of manufacturing.

It means the followings:1) Manage operation & process.2) Organize in a systematic way.3) Making product.4) Standard method of manufacturing.5) Ensure the requirements.6) Utilizing the workers at right time on right place.7) Managing the raw materials, machines & manpower.8)

Manufacturing Process of Sweater garments:

01) Winding Section: Yarn comes into factory in two forms:a) Hanks & b) Cone

Hanks to Cone transferring section are called Winding section.

Hanks to cone winding machine

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02) Yarn distributing center: After winding all yarns cone comes to this section.

03) Knitting Section: All parts of sweater are knitting here.

Computerized Sweater knitting machine

04) First Inspection: Every part of sweater is knitted in the knitting section and passed them off First Inspection to get those checked whether each part is properly knitted or not, and to get confirmed if any yarn is wasted.

05) Linking Section: All garment parts joining to each other.

Dual linking machine

06) Trimming Section or Mending Section: Extra yarn edge should be trimmed in this section.

07) 2nd Inspection: After trimming then it needs to check the garments.

08) Light Checking: Thoroughly checked in the Second Inspection and then to light checking with a view to ensuring if any hole is present in the sweater.

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09) Washing Section: Washing the garments for chemical hazards.

Washing machine

10) Hydro extractor Section: Squeezing the garments to remove water & garments become dry.

Hydro extractor machine

11) Dryer Section: To dry the garments by dryer machine.

Dryer or Drying machine

12) 3rd Inspection: For Shrinkage check & Accurate measurement is tested in the Third Inspection.

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13) Label attaching: The sweaters are passed through the labeling section, where neck, care and size label are attached.

14) Steam Iron Section: Steam ironing for completion.

Steam Iron

15) Quality Control Section: In the quality control section, where each part of sweater is checked carefully, thus if the sweaters are found not up to the standard, they are sent back to the Third Inspection section for mending the loopholes.

16) Poly Packing Section: After quality checking needs to attach hangtag, price tag to garments, then it turns into poly bag.

Two types of poly bag is used: 1) Blister poly 2) Single or solid poly.

17) Packaging section: In this section, garments turn to carton means cartooning.

18) Inspection by Buyer: After 100% completion of packaging, garments are checked by the Buyer representatives according to AQL. Mainly 1.5 & 2.5 AQL is used but more preferable AQL is 2.5.

Types of Machines used in sweater garments:

01) Winding m/c.02) Knitting m/c.03) Linking m/c (Adjusting all parts).04) Over lock m/c.05) Washing m/c.06) Hydro extractor m/c (For water removing).07) Dryer.08) Iron/ Steam Iron.09) Single needle lock stitch m/c ( For adjusting label)

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Week: 03Lecture: 03

Lecture Title: Specification for flat bar, straight bar & Circular machines

Knitting machine: The machines which are used for knitting purpose are called knitting machine.

Types of Knitting Machines:There are two types of knitting machines:

1. Warp knitting machine. 2. Weft knitting machine.

Warp Knitting machine: The knitting machine in which the loops are produced in a vertical direction & loops are made from different yarns or number of yarns.

Weft knitting machine: The knitting machine in which the loops are produced in a horizontal direction and each loop in horizontal direction is made from a single yarn is called weft knitting machine.

Classification of Warp Knitting Machine: There are two types of warp knitting machine:1) Tricot m/c.

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2) Raschel m/c.Types of weft knitting machine: In broad sense, there are two types of weft knitting m/c:

1. Fabric Machine. 2. Garment length machine.Fabric Machine: Fabric machine knits fabric in a continuous uninterrupted length of constant width.

Garments Length machine: Garment length machine is a knitting machine which is built for producing individual garment panels in series rather than continuous production of fabric. This term is most commonly used to describe Circular weft knitting machine.

In another way, Weft knitting machines are classified in three types:

a) Straight bar knitting machine: There are two types of Straight bar knitting machine: 1) Single needle bed machine. 2) Double needle bed machine

b) Flat knitting machine: There are four types of Flat knitting machine:1) Flat bed machine.

2) V-bed machine. 3) Flat bed purl machine with double ended needle (Latch needle) 4) Unidirectional multi carriage machine.

b) Circular knitting machine: i) Single jersey machine & Double jersey machine: 1) Rib & 2) Interlock m/c.

Straight bar frame m/c:

Specifications for Straight bar frame or fully fashioning m/c:

1) Vertical bearded needle is used in this m/c.2) A number of revolving cam shafts is present in the base of the m/c.3) May be single needle bar or double needle bar.4) Needle beard is pressed by fixed pressing edge.5) Knock over occurs when needle descends.6) Gentle knitting action.7) High production.8) Expensive.9) Fully automatic.10) The m/c is divided into a number of series each capable of producing separate but

identically dimensioned garment components.11) One completion of garment length sequences the panels are pressed off from the needle bar.12) Knitting action of 2-needle bar rib frames is troublesome so it is less popular than single

needle bar m/c.

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Flat bar knitting m/c:

Specifications of flat bar knitting m/c:

1) The typical flat bar or flat knitting m/c has two stationary beds on which latch needles and other elements slide during knitting action.

2) The needles are controlled by angular cams.3) The carriage with its selected yarn carrier’s traverse in reciprocating manners across

the machine width.4) The m/c may be hand controlled or may be fully automated electronically controlled

and power driven5) Types of flat bar knitting m/c:

c) V-bed flat knitting m/c.d) Flat-bed

Flat knitting m/c

Uses of flat bar knitting m/cs:

1) Collars and cuffs of T-shirt & polo shirt.2) Integrally knitted garments and garment panels.

Specification of Circular machine:

1) The term circular covers all the weft knitting machines whose needle bars are arranged on circular cylinder and or dials radially.

2) The needles may be latch, bearded, or compound needle.3) The produce a wide range of fabric structures, garments, hosiery and other articles in a

variety of diameters & machine gauge.

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4) They are mainly two types:a) Single jersey machine.b) Double jersey ( Rib or Interlock machine)

Machine Description:

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Needles:

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Cams:

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Cams Arrangement:

Creels:

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Feeders:

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Fabric Spreader:

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Take-down & Winding Mechanism:

Circular knitting machine

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01. Manual Flat Knitting Machine02. Semi automatic Flat Knitting Machine03. Fully Computerize Flat Knitting Machine – Intarsia 04. V-bed flat Knitting Machine (knit and wear)05. Circular Knitting Machine for Sweater .

Description1. Ranges: 1.5G, 3G, 5G, 6G, 7G, 9G, 12G, 14G, 16G, 18G2. Width: 36", 40", 44", 48", 52"(The special one can make to order)

SEMIAUTOMATIC FLAT KNITTING MACHINE

Technical specification: 1. Volume: 1900mm (length)*1400mm (width)*1900mm (height) 2. Weight: 300KG 3. Gauge: 5,6,7,9,12,14 4. Electronic power: 220v 50/60Hz 5. Pattern input: U disk input 6. Knitting width: adjust according to cloth piece 7. Knitting speed: depends on the yarn strength 8. Stop motion: needle brake, knot, program error 9. Density adjustment: manual cam

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MANUAL FLAT KNITTING MACHINE

adjustment, nail indication 10. Needle bed length: 40” 11. Color yarn change: 1-90 Product features: 1. The very unique and patent design on yarn feeders, of more than 90 yarn feeders. 2. The unique way of yarn twist, creates the perfect cloth cover effect. 3. The computerized pattern design, entire microcomputer control, simple operation, and easy maintenance.

FULLY COMPUTERIZE FLAT KNITTING MACHINE – INTARSIA

Needle bed52", the steel needles are inserted on the bed, Replaceable segment can be available when broken down.

Knitting width: Variable stroke, Max 52" (132mm) .

Guage: 3,5,7,8,9,12,14,15/per inch.

Knitting speed: Knitting speed varies according to guage and knitting condition. MAX. 1.2m/sec., 24 speed selection programmable command control.

Knitting system: one carriage with double system setup.

Knitting cam: composite design, use three ways technology. each system can perform loop+doubling stitch+not knitting at the same time.

Transfer cam: compound knitting cam system, each system can transfer from the front to rear, rear to front or both front and rear simultaneously without direction restriction. auto racking and auto receiving.

Stitch cam: each system setting is controlled by a step motor. it has 24 stitches of independent selections and each of them range from 00-365 steps for knitting pattern.

Needle selection: each system has 4 sets special solenoids, double cam system equipped totally 8 sets solenoids, which can be installed or removed simply from the carriage and maintained easily.

Yarn carriers2*8 sets yarn carriers on 4 double side rails, switchable in any area within the knitting width. also can be equipped with special design yarn carrier for intarsia pattern (optional device).

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Movable sinker: this system composed by two additional piece of sinker needle bed. the sinker presser degree adjustable the position by knitting program command.

Racking system: servo motor control, the programmable racking positions within 2 inches, each also having 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 micro adjustable positions.

Main take down roller: 24 levels changeable tensions, adjustable automatically on each level.

Sub take down roller: 24 levels changeable tensions, adjustable automatically on each level. automatically open and close.

Carriage drive system: AC servo motor, teeth shape dricing belt, no oil needed, 24 speed selection and freely programmable.

Stop motion: Yarn breaking, knot, press off, needle break, over current, roll back, wrong racking, inappropriate position of presser, excessive yarn, and reaching on production target offer automatic stop.

Controllerbuilt-in controller. data input by hand or USB memory disc. stored program for flat knitting machine.

Memory capacity: 1024*4096 hung memory for the width and length pattern design.

Data input: USB memory interface.

Language display: CTR indication English and Chinese are standard version, Supplement with other languages (Option software) .

Power supply: 3 phase AC 220V 1.2KVA

Dimension & WeightLength*Width*Height: 290*90*200CMNet Weight: 1400kgs------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------The full automatic machine can knit kinds of sweater, which can save more labor cost and improve productivity.

the machine system can achieve kinds of the patterns: miss, tuck, transfer, pointel, intarsia, jacquard, apparent shape, hidden shape ,

regular or irregular pattern knitting functions.

High Production Single Jersey SWEATER Circular Knitting Machine

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Dia : 30” x 12 Gauge x 60 Feeder

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Week: 04Lecture: 04

Lecture Title: Knitting action of V-bed flat knitting machine

Knitting action of V-bed flat knitting machine:

Numbers 1to 4 above correspond to the numbers in the knitting action illustrations, assuming a carriage traverse from left to right. Similar positions may be plotted for the return traverse, using the cams given an (L) designation to provide the positive movements.

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1. The rest position: The tops of the needles are level with the edge of knock-over bits. The butts of the needles assume a straight line unti

Containing the raising cams R (R) because the leading stitch cams S and AS (L) are lifted to an inactive position. The lifting action is alternating actions that always lower the trailing stitch cams and raises the leading stitch cams in each system as the traverse commence. This action prevents needles from being unnecessary lowered and a strain being placed on the loops prior to the start-up of the knitting action.

2. Clearing: The needle butts are lifted as they contact the leading edge of cams R (R), which raises the needles to “tucking in the hook” height with the undersurface of cams S (L) acting as guard cams. The needles are lifted to full clearing height as their butts pass over the cardigan cams C (R) and C (L).

3. Yarn feeding: The yarn is fed as the needles descend under the control of guard cam (G). The required loop length is drawn by each needle as it descends the stitch cam S(R).

4. Knocking-over: To produce synchronized knocking-over of both needle beds simultaneously, the stitch cam AS (R), so that the latter is rendered ineffective. If, however, delayed timing of the knock-over is employed, knock-over in the front bed will occur after knock-over in the back-bed. In this case, stitch cam S (R) is not set as low as AS (R) ( Number 5) so that the depth of the latter cam produces the knock-over action

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Week: 05

Lecture Title: Taking a class test & discussion on assignment

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Week: 06Lecture: 05

Lecture Title: Features of Garment length m/c, Rib & Interlock machine

Features of garment length machine: The garment length machines are usually of coarser gauges than fabric machine. Garment length machine includes:

1) Straight bar frames.2) Most Flat machine.3) Hosiery, leg wear & glove machines.4) Circular knitting machines: 1) Single jersey m/c 2) Double jersey m/c: a) Rib & b) Interlock

double jersey m/c

The main features of garment length machine:

1) It mainly produces knitwear, underwear, outer wears and under wears.2) This machine converts fabric into garment length construction sequence. This is controlled

by additional garment control mechanism.3) This control is initialized by correctly time changes in some or all of followings: Cam

setting, Needle arrangement, Feeders & machine speeds.4) It must be easily adjustable different garment sizes.5) Garments may be knitted either in tubular form or in open width size. In open width size

more than one garment might be knitted simultaneously.6) Larger diameter circular knitting m/c may knit a garment sequence which is later split into

two or more garment width.7) The amount of shape introduced into garment also varies some depends entirely on shaping

during making up. Some are stitched and some are shaped by reciprocating knitting.

Features of Circular Rib machine:

1) In a dial cylinder rib machine, there is one set of needle on the circumference of a vertical cylinder & another set of needle on a horizontal dial, so the two sets of needle remain at the right angle with the each other.

2) In a dial cylinder machine, cylinder & dial rotates where as cams with yarn feeder and guides remain stationary.

3) The dial needle gets motion for stitch formation through butt, which is placed in a cam track. This cam track is formed by different cams & those cams are fixed on cam plate.

4) During rotation of cylinder, cylinder needle moves vertically where as during the rotation of dial, dial needles move horizontally, cylinder needle also gets motion through its separate cam

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Circular Rib machine

Uses:

Rib is suitable particularly for the extremities of articles such as tops of socks, cuff, sleeves or rib boarders of garments and strolling and strapping for cardigans. It is knitted at the top of plain knit socks and gloves.

Features of Circular Interlock m/c:

1) The m/c has two sets of needle on two different beds, one set on cylinder bed & another set on dial bed. These two needles are placed perpendicular to each other. The two beds must be exactly opposite to each other.

2) The needles are controlled by two cam system. If the first needle is controlled by one cam system then the second needle can be controlled by the other cam system.

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Inter lock Circular knitting m/c

Interlock Circular knitting m/c

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Week: 07Lecture: 06

Lecture Title: Single & Double knit Structure

What is single knit fabric? :

• Single knit fabric or single jersey is a general term for knitted fabrics produced by the knitting machines using one set of needles only.

• The fabrics could be composed of different patterns, stitches, materials and different weight and thickness.

Examples of 1x 1 plain single jersey structures:

1x1 plain single jersey structures

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Double Knit Fabric:

• Double knit fabrics or double jersey are knitted fabrics produced by machines using two set of needles.

• They can be produced by:1. Rib and non-jacquard machines2. Interlock machines

Example of double knit f abric : 1x1 rib

• This is the most simple double knit structure. I t can be made on V-bed knitting machine and circular rib machine.

• 1x1 rib fabric is one course per repeat structure.

• Both face and back looks exactly the same.

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End uses of1x1 rib

• Underwears– I t is common to use this structure for men’s underwear

such as the vest, knitted on 16 gauge with 20Ne cotton– This gives a light weight and elastic fabric of 100-120

g/ m2.• Sweater

– I n the cut and sewn knitwear group, 1x1 rib of the medium gauges (7-12) knitted on wool or acrylic yarns are for ladies’ jumper. For example 2/ 32 Nm acrylic yarn on 12 gauge machine.

• Waist Band– The rib cuff , waist band or neck strap of the sweaters

are usually 1x1 rib structure.– All the rib top of socks are 1x1 rib plus rubber inlay.

2x2 rib

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The broad ribs (f ancy ribs)

• Any rib which is wider than 2x2 rib can be classified as broad ribs or f ancy ribs.

• Example the Derby rib which is 6x3 rib is generally used on the pullovers.

• Fancy rib can be of any combination in face and back wales, such as 10 x5; 20 x 4 etc

Fancy Rib (broad rib)

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Examples of 1x1 Interlock Structure:

Comparison between Plain Single jersey, Rib & Interlock structure:

Property Plain single jersey Rib Interlock1. Appearance 1. Face & Back side

appearances are different.

1. Face & Back appearances are same

1. Face & Back appearances are same

2. Thickness of fabric 2. Less thick 2. Thicker than plain single jersey

2. More thicker than Rib & Plain single jersey.

3. Curling tendency 3. More curling tendency than rib & interlock

3. Less curling tendency

3. Very less curling tendency.

4. Un roving 4. Both side of the fabric

4. Last end of knitted fabric

4. Last end of knitted fabric

5. Needle 5. 1 Set needle is used in cylinder

5. 1 set needle for cylinder & 1 set for dial.

5. 2 sets needle for cylinder & 2 sets for dial.

6. Cam 6. 1 set cam is used 6. 2 set cam 6. 2 set cam7. End-uses 7. Stockings, T-shirt,

Cardigans etc7. Socks, cuff & collar etc

7. Underwear, polo shirt & sports wear

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Week: 08Lecture: 07

Lecture Title: Sweater Gauges

UNDERSTANDING KNITTING GAUGEWhat IS Gauge, anyway?Why is gauge SO important?Why is needle size NOT so important?Can you ever get away with NOT knitting a gauge swatch? How to knit a gauge swatch:Say the gauge you need is 5 stitches per inch... If your number of stitches per inch is way off... Think of swatching as PLAYING WITH YARN If you have needles in sizes from #3 to #9 Now for the "Hard Stuff" (math - but don’t panic)The Big ThreeRemember...What IS Gauge, anyway? Sometimes called "Tension", it simply means stitches per inch. It will be different depending on the yarn, needle size, individual knitter, and stitch pattern. In general, the fatter the yarn, the fatter the needle you should use with it, the bigger the stitches it will make, so you will need fewer of them. The thinner the yarn, the thinner the needle you should use with it, the smaller the stitches, so you need more of them.

Why is gauge SO important? Because if you don’t know your gauge, you will not know what size your piece will be. Even ½ stitch per inch off can make a difference. For example, if you are following a sweater pattern that is 40 inches around at a gauge of 5 stitches per inch, you will need a total of 200 stitches (5 stitches per inch multiplied by 40 inches). If your gauge is 4 ½ stitches per inch and you cast on 200 stitches, your sweater will be 44.44 inches around (200 stitches divided by 4 ½ stitches per inch).

Why is needle size NOT so important? Every knitter knits differently. Give 6 people the exact same yarn and needles, and they will knit at least 4 different stitches per inch. When you are looking at a pattern, it is NOT the needle size that matters - it is the GAUGE or TENSION. The person who wrote the pattern might knit more tightly or loosely than you, so the size of needle recommended might be too large or too small for YOU. When you begin knitting a project from a pattern, then, you should knit a gauge swatch, even if you are using the exact yarn called for in the pattern. If you are substituting a different yarn for the one in the pattern, you should ALWAYS do a gauge swatch, even if the yarn is nominally the same gauge as the one in the pattern. Yarns of different fiber, texture, number of plies can knit very differently even if they look similar or even if the average gauge on the skein label is the same (or it may be handspun, or a mill-end without a label, or found at a yard sale,……). After you have been knitting for awhile, you will get a feel for

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whether you are a tight or loose knitter, which can help in figuring out what needle size you need for a given yarn.

Can you ever get away with NOT knitting a gauge swatch? Yes, sort of…..If you want to knit something where the exact size is not critical, say, a baby blanket, a scarf, a shawl or a Christmas stocking (in other words, things that don’t have to fit exactly), you may be able to go by the average gauge given on the yarn label. OR, if you have knitted a lot with a particular yarn and know exactly what gauge you get with a given needle size, you may not need a gauge swatch. Be warned, though, your knitting tension can change over time, according to how you knit, or even what mood you are in.If you have a yarn you have never worked with before, though, you should do a swatch, especially if there is no gauge given on the skein label, just to get a rough idea of stitches per inch (you don’t need a baby blanket that will cover a king-size bed).

How to knit a gauge swatch: The larger the swatch, the more accurate your measurement will be. Figure out what will be at least 6 inches worth of stitches with your yarn and cast on that many stitches. Knit a few rows in garter stitch. Keeping an inch-worth of stitches at the edges in garter stitch, work in stockinette stitch for a few inches. (NOTE: If your pattern gives a gauge in a pattern stitch, you must do your swatch in this pattern rather than stockinette). At this point you can measure roughly and see if you are way off. Measure 4 inches, count the stitches (half-stitches, too) and divide this number by 4 (it may be a fraction). This is stitches per inch.

Gauges available:

1.1.5 Gauge.2. 3 “3. 5 “4. 7 “5. 10 “6. 12 “7. 14 “

Gauge expressed as the thickness and thinners of Sweater (Fabric).

What is Sweater Gauge?

Basically Sweater gauge expresses the garments thickness and thinness. Like in case of cut and sew knit wear we measure up the fabric thickness by GSM (gram per square meter) and incase of sweater we measure it up by Gauge (GG).

Needle Gauge or Machine gauge:The needle gauge or machine gauge of a knitting machine is a measure expressing the no. of needles per a unit of the needle bed width.

N= x/ 1 English inchHere, N= How many needles are used in one English inch.

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x = No. of needles. a) In case of weft knitting machine, number of needle per inch is called gauge.

b) In case of Raschel warp knitting machine, number of needle per two inch is called gauge.

Machine gauge is determined the number of needle in one inch or 2.54 cm of a needle bed.

Following gauge of sweaters is available:(a) 1.5 gauge(b) 3 “(c) 5 “(d) 7 “(e) 10 “(f) 12 “(g) 14 “ (h) 16 “(i) 18 gauge

Every gauge machine is different to each other. 1.5 gauge (it means 3 needles in 2 inches)

Available gauge: (Most available sweater gauges in Bangladesh): A) 1.5 gauge B) 3 gauge C) 5 gauge D) 7 gauge (e) 10 (very Rare) (f) 12 gauge.

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Week: 09Lecture: 08

Lecture Title: Styling of Sweater

Body Styles:

A) Straight Bottom:

B) A line shape:

C) Fitted Bottom:

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Men’s (Less Rib width)

Ladies (Rib width more)

D) Button through Cardigan:

Cardigan must be included button or zipper in front.

E) Zipper through cardigan:

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E) Pull Over (No button):

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F) Hood Pull over:

G) Ladies Vest (Sleeve less):

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Neck Style:

A. Crew Neck (Bigger Upper Shape)

B. Ballet Neck (Smaller Upper shape)

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C. Mock Turtle Neck:

D. Shawl Neck:

Men’s Shawl neck

Ladies Shawl neck

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Shoulder/ Sleeve Style:

A. Set in Sleeve: B. Straight Sleeve C. Reglan Sleeve. D. Saddle Shoulder. E. Classic Shoulder

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Week: 10Lecture: 09

Lecture Title: Types of Stitches & Designs used in fully fashion items

A. Basic Type: 1) Jersey 2) Rib ( 1X1, 2X2, 2X1, 3X2)

B. Full Cardigan: Construction mostly 1x1 Rib both sides appearance fluffy.

Full Cardigan Stitch

Cardigan Pattern

C. Cable Stitch:

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Pattern of Cable Stitch:

Diagram of Cable Stitch:

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There are three types of Cable stitch: a) Normal / Single Cable Stitch.

b) 2 lines joined Cable Stitch

Figure: 2-Lines joined cable stitch

3. 3 or more lines joined cable stitch or Butterfly Stitch:

Figure: Butterfly Stitch

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D. Pintelle Stitch

Pattern of Pointelle Stitch:

E. Milano Stitch: Front view Chain shape & Back view joined v-shape

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F. Bubble design Stitch:

G. Ladder Stitch:

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1) Double needle ladder Stitch:

2) Ladder Stitch used in Hand embroidery:

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H. Diamond Stitch:

Design of Diamond Stitch:

Diamond Stitch pattern:

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I. Tuck Stitch: Single tiny hole or both side tiny holes

J. Honey comb stitch:

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Pattern of Honey comb:

K. Moss Stitch:

Pattern of Moss Stitch:

Figure: Double Moss Stitch pattern

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Week: 11Lecture: 10

Lecture Title: End-uses & Diversification of Stitches & Designs

A. Cardigan Stitch:

1) Mock neck cardigan

2) Cardigan Stitch in Sweater

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3) Cardigan Stitch body:

4) Cardigan Stitch in Hats

5) Cardigan Stitch on Ladies Tops

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B. Cable Stitch:

1) Men’s Cardigan or Jumper

2) Cable Beanie:

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3) Cable Stitch as Women’s item:

4) Cable Stitch Sweater:

5. Butterfly Cable stitch used in Cardigan

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6) Cable Stitch on Sweater

C. Pointelle Stitch:

1) Used in Ladies Cardigan

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2) Necklace, leaf pointelle-stitch tights:

3) Used in Sweater jacket

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4) Used in Ladies Pull over

5) Used in Mini Skirt

6) Used in Ladies Tights:

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D. Milano Stitch:

1) Used in Sweater

2) Used in Ladies Long

3. Used in Ladies Double breasted Jacket:

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3. Milano Stitch dress:

E. Ladder Stitch:

1) Used in Dishcloth

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2) Used in Bracelet:

F. Diamond Stitch:

1) Used in Leather Jacket

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2) Used in Ornament

3) Used in Hoodie:

G. Tuck Stitch:

1) Used in Baby blanket

2) Tuck Stitch on Sleeve, Collar & One pkt:

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3) As Cardigan

5) Used in Scarf

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6) Used in Hats:

4) Used in Sweater

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5) Used in Scrug Tops

7) Used in Woolen items:

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8) Used in Lace:

H. Honeycomb Stitch:

1) Used in Cardigan

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2) Used in Ladies Vest:

YARN COUNT

Single Jersey Machine24 Gauge

Double jersey Machine18 Gauge

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30’s

Single Jersey Fabric 140g/m2 - 155g/m2Pique Fabric 180 – 200g/m2

PIQUE Fabric 180-200g/m2

Single Jersey with 20 Denial 100% Lycra 200-240 g/m2

200-220 g/m2 1x1 Rib Fabric

180-200g/m2 2x2 Rib Fabric


230-240g/m2 2x1 Rib With 50% 40 Denial Lycra

30’s


Double jersey Machine24 Gauge(Interlock)

Terry Fleece 200g-220g/m2

One side brush fleece 180-200g/m2Heavy Jersey 260-280g/m2

Plane Interlock 220-230g/m2

Inlerlock neddle drop 8/1180-200g/m2

26’s



Single Jersey Fabric 160g/m2 to 175 g/m2Pique Fabric 210 – 230g/m2

Single Jersey with 20 Denial 100% Lycra 240-260g/m2





26’s




One side brush fleece 200-220g/m2



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24’s



Single Jersey Fabric 180g/m2- 200g/m2

Pique Fabric 240– 260g/m2

Single Jersey with 20 Denial 100% Lycra 260-280g/m2





24’s




One side brush fleece 220-240g/m2



34’s



Single Jersey Fabric 125g/m2 - 140g/m2

Pique Fabric 160 – 180g/m2

Single Jersey with 20 Denial 100% Lycra -180-200g/m2





34’s



Terry Fleece ---One side brush fleece ---Heavy Jersey 220-240g/m2



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Week: 12Lecture: 11

Lecture Title: Analysis of sweater knitting yarn

Yarn available in local market:

1) 100% Cotton2) 100% Acrylic.3) 100% Cashmere like.4) 100% Acrylic Mohair like.5) 70% Acrylic & 30% Wool6) 100% Rayon.7) 100% Nylon.8) 95% Cotton & 5% Lycra.9) 65% Rayon & 35% Nylon.10) 60% Viscose & 40% Cotton.11) Silver lurex.12) 65% Viscose & 35 % Cotton

Formula of producing different gauges sweater using different quality of yarn:

Gauge Yarn ( 100% Acrylic) Count Ply1.5 100% Acrylic 2/32 83 100% Acrylic 2/32 65 100% Acrylic 2/32 47 100% Acrylic 2/32 212 100% Acrylic 2/32 1

Gauge Yarn (100% Acrylic Cashmere

like)Count Ply

1.5 100% Acrylic Cashmere like 2/28 83 100% Acrylic Cashmere like 2/28 65 100% Acrylic Cashmere like 2/28 47 100% Acrylic Cashmere like 2/26 212 100% Acrylic Cashmere like 2/36 1

Gauge Yarn ( 100% Cotton) Count Ply

1.5 100% Cotton 2/20 113 100% Cotton 2/20 85 100% Cotton 2/20 5

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7 100% Cotton 2/20 312 100% Cotton 2/32 or 2/30 2

Gauge Yarn ( 70% Acrylic 30% Wool)

Count Ply

1.5 70/30 Acrylic wool 2/28 or 2/32 83 70/30 Acrylic wool 2/28 or 2/32 65 70/30 Acrylic wool 2/28 or 2/32 47 70/30 Acrylic wool 2/28 or 2/32 212 70/30 Acrylic wool 2/36 1

Gauge Peak season Off-peak season3,5,7 gauges March to August September to February12 gauges September to February March to August

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Week: 13

Lecture Title: Class test & Discussion on Assignment

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Week: 14Lecture: 12

Lecture Title: Company profile of a Sweater factory along with machine profiles

www.rracrylic.com www.rrsweaters.net ISO 9001: 2000

COMPANY PROFILE www.rracrylic.com www.rrsweaters.net

R. R. GROUP

HEAD OFFICE: - 205, Senpara Parbota, Begum Rokeya Sarani, Mirpur, Dhaka, Bangladesh.Tel.: 88-02-9006226, 9014569 Fax : 88-02-9010825, E-mail : [email protected], [email protected]

FACTORY 1:- R. R. SWEATERS LTD. (100% Export Oriented Sweater Factory) 205, Senpara Parbota, Begum Rokeya Sarani, Mirpur, Dhaka, Bangladesh. Tel.: 88-02-9006226, 9014569 Fax: 88-02-9010825, E-mail: [email protected]

FACTORY 2 :- R. R. ACRYLIC LTD. (100% Export Oriented Sweater Factory) Plot # A-35 & A-39, BSCIC Industrial Estate, Konabari, Joydebpur, Gazipur. Bangladesh. Tel.:88-02-9297377, Fax: 88-02-9297373.

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mailto:[email protected]

mailto:[email protected]

www.rracrylic.com www.rrsweaters.net ISO 9001: 2000

www.rracrylic.com www.rrsweaters.net ISO 9001: 2000 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

COMPANY PROFILE 1. PROJECTS: -- R. R. SWEATERS LTD. & R. R. ACRYLIC LTD . R. R. Sweaters Ltd. is one of the most important projects of R. R. Group. It was established in 1996 at its own building with all modern facility. The company’s mission is to manufacture and export different type of quality sweaters as Buyer’s requirements. R. R. Sweaters Ltd. has been set up with professional Merchandiser and Quality Assurance team. We are committed to the buyers to maintain in time delivery with quality products. We are also committed to work with group of selected customers providing standard services. R. R. Acrylic Ltd. has established on 2002 at BSCIC Industrial Estate, Konabari, Gazipur at our own building with all modern facility and already exporting high quality sweater, pullover, cardigan to Europe, USA and Canada. 2. Location of the Project: - R. R. Sweaters Ltd. is located approx. 20-30 minutes away from the Zia International Air port & max. 15 minutes from the Sonargaon Pan Pacific Hotel and Dhaka Sheraton Hotel. R. R. Acrylic Ltd. Is located at Konabari, Gazipur which is approximate 45-60 minutes away from Zia International Air Port. 3. Total Space : The factory space of R. R. Sweaters Ltd. is 26,000 Sft and R. R. Acrylic Ltd. is 45000 sft. The total working space of R. R. Group is 71,000 Sft. 4. Factory Address: R. R. Sweaters Ltd.: 205, Senpara Parbota, Begum Rokeya Sarani, Mirpur, Dhaka-1216, Bangladesh. Tel.:+88-02-9006226, 9014569 Fax: 88-02-9010825, E-mail : [email protected] R. R. ACRYLIC LTD.: Plot # A-35 & A-39, BSCIC Industrial Estate, Konabari, Joydebpur, Gazipur. Bangladesh. Tel.:88-02-9297377, Fax: 88-02-9297373. 5. Bank Reference (Dealing Bank): AGRANI BANK Principal Branch, Motijheel C/A, Dhaka - 1000, Bangladesh. TLX No.:- 642757 ABD-BJ, 632549 ABD-BJ. SWIFT: AGBKBDDH001. Mutual Trust Bank Dilkusha Branch, 68, Dilkusha C/A, Dhaka-1000, Bangladesh. Ph:88-02-7171301,7171302. Fax : 88-02-9569762 TLX: 632173 MTB HOBJ. SWIFT:MTBL BD DH DIL.

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6. Quality Policy The aim of R. R. Group is to become one of the leading company in the Sweaters Industry of Bangladesh.

Focuses on continuous improvement in all quality related activities and seek to prevent errors and eliminate the root causes of problems. Educate, train and qualify our employees so that they can perform their tasks in accordance with the established quality standards and contribute to improvement efforts. Select the suppliers on there performances. To implement the buyers requirement throughout the company.

7. Electricity Facility: Besides Govt. facilities of electricity the Company has own 150 KVA auto Generator at R. R. Sweaters Ltd. and 100 KVA auto Generator at R. R. Acrylic Ltd. to keep full stream of production in all time.

8. Doctor’s Facility and Food: One doctor is always available for medical treatment at both factories. In addition to the above we ensure the sufficient medicines for normal treatment in the factories. We provide free afternoon food to all employees.


9. No Child Labour: All workers are working in the factory, above the age 18 (Eighteen) as per the agreement signed between our Association and the International Labour Organization (ILO). All

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workers give written declarations regarding their age. If any worker is in doubtful category, are verified by the Civil Surgeons office of Bangladesh. This is the procedure of Labour Law. So there is no Child Labour in our both factories

10. Health and Safety: Health and safety is a major concern of our Company. We do periodical checking of all electric lines and equipment to ensure safe working environment. Protective gloves and masks are given to workers who are working with risk with regard to washing chemicals and yarn fluff respectively. Our factory has fire evacuation plans in each floor and regular fire drills are carried out and timed. Required numbers of fire extinguishers are in place in the factories. Fire alarm bells are installed in different places of the building and the bells are regularly checked. It’s our policy to keep Fire Exits open even when there is one member of the staff in the factory building. 11. Bathroom (Toilet) Facility: Sufficient numbers of healthy Toilet and in each floor of our both factories. 12. Lead Time: The normal lead-time for production of sweaters by local yarn & accessories is 60-90 days (appox) and for imported yarn & accessories the lead time is from 90-120 days (appox).13. Lab Testing: All garments can be tested for colourfastness; pilling, fibre composition etc from ITS Bangladesh, SGS or nominated by Buyer if required. 14. Performance Assurance: To ensure quality of our finished goods as per Buyer’s requirements, 3 rd party inspection by reputed inspection team i.e SGS, BUREAU VERITAS and Foreign representative selected by buyer are done and already passed by them.

www.rracrylic.com www.rrsweaters.net ISO 9001: 2000 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 15. Quality Assurance Certificate: R.R. Sweaters Ltd. has been awarded the certificate of ISO 9001:2000 in recognition of the organisations ‘Quality System’ by United Register Systems Ltd, of U.K. Ref No-83840. R.R. Acrylic Ltd.: The Company is under process for ISO certification and already full fills the compliances of BGMEA and major foreign buyer.

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Machine Profiles:

16. Machineries & Capacity:

a) List of Knitting Machine: R. R. Sweaters Ltd. Sl No

Machine Brand Gauge Machine Qty

Production Capacity/Month

01 Flying Tiger & Leading Tiger

3 gg 50 No. 12,000 Pcs


5 gg 100 No. 18,000 Pcs

03 Flying Tiger & Tung Fong

7 gg 100 No. 20,000 Pcs

Total = 250 No. 50,000 Pcs

b) List of Knitting Machine: R. R. Acrylic Ltd. Sl No

Machine Brand Gauge Machine Qty

Production Capacity/Month


3 gg 100 No. 20,000 Pcs


5 gg 125 No. 22,000 Pcs

03 Flying Tiger & Tung Fong

7 gg 175 No. 48,000 Pcs

Total = 400 No. 90,000 Pcs


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c) List of Other Machine: Sl No Description of Machine Machine Quantity

01 Winding Machine “Tung Fong” Brand 15 No. 02 Linking M/C Henrey & Flying Tiger Brand 220 No. 03 Over lock Machine “Juki” Brand 07 No. 04 Sewing Machine “ Brother” Brand 10 No. 05 Button Hole Machine “ Brother” Brand 02 No. 06 Button Stitch Machine “ Brother” Brand 02 No. 07 Automatic strap Machine “ Leading Tiger” Brand 08 No. 08 Bar Tack Machine “ Juki” Brand 02 No. 09 Washing Machine “Henrey” Brand (130 lbs. each set) 02 No.

10 Hydro Extractor “Henrey” Brand (120lbs) 03 No. 11 Steam Dryer “ Cissell” Brand 05 No. 12 Steam Boiler “ Fulton” Brand (470 kgs each set) 02 No. 13 Steam Iron “ JYR” Brand 28 No 14 Auto Generator (150 KVA) 02 No 15 Flat Lock Machine “Juki” Brand 01 No 16 Yarn Twisted Machine 02 No 17 Carton Auto strap sealing Machine 01 No

17. Customers: Sl No Name of the Buyers Country

01 Comi (Vetimarche & Intermarche) France 02 Norprotex S.A France 03 Dr. Rehfeld Germany 04 Ernesting’s Family GMBH Germany 05 Aldi Nord Germany 06 Trampolin GMBH Germany 07 Samar SPA Italy 08 No-Excess BV/ It’s Noize BV Netherlands 09 LPP SA Poland 10 Multitrade,S. A Spain 11 Oshkosh UK 12 Grand Knitting Mills USA 13 La Maison Simons Inc. Canada

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We, R. R. Group promise to meet all the Buyer’s requirement that is in terms of quality product, competitive price, quick sample delivery, minimum lead-time and all type of co-operation to meet the requirement of buyer for making satisfactory and enjoyable business experience.

*********

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FACTORY PROFILE

Evernal Industry Limited

(Sweater Division)

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INTRODUCTION

Evernal Industry Limited is a 100% export oriented sweater knitting factory for production of fashionable and quality sweaters. The Factory is located at Darail, Shataish, Tongi, Gazipur, Bangladesh with a total area of 105,000 Sq. Ft for its Manufacturing division.

Evernal Industry Limited is a developing manufacturer of different kinds of sweaters such as cardigan, pullover, etc. The factory is fully equipped with brand new highly sophisticated Machineries conforming to the European & American standards.

Evernal Industry Limited practices total Management Systems powered by their skilled professionals who are working for its effective & efficient progress and the products guarantee the international market of its quality durability.

Evernal Industry Limited is having a corporate office at a prime location in the commercial area of Dhaka and Head Office is also situated at factory building for which continuous supervision & immediate decision of the Management could easily be given for getting quality and production.

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Our Strength

(Machinery Setup)

1. Winding Machine (12 spindle)……………………………20 sets.Brand: Universal, Origin: Hong Kong

2. Yarn Twisting MachineBrand: Universal, Capacity: 40Lbs/ 04 Head/ Hr, Origin: China ......................................................................04 Sets.

3. Hand Driven Flat Knitting Machine Brand: Universal, Origin: China.

12GG………….900sets7GG…………...100sets

4. Dial Linking Machine Brand: Universal, Origin: China.

14G……………400sets6G.....................12sets8G…………….36sets

5. Automatic Rib Knitting MachineBrand: Universal, Origin: China

7G........................02sets12G......................04 sets

6. Automatic Collar Knitting MachineBrand: Universal, Origin: China

3G x 42” .............01set5G/7G x 42” ......02sets12G x 42.............02sets

7. Brother Lock stitch Flatbed machine………………………18 Sets.

8. Brother over lock machine…………………………………10 Sets.

9. Brother button hole, button stitch………………………….05 Sets.

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10. Ngai Shing Snap attaching machine.....................................02 Set.

11. PEGASUS Flatbed Interlock machine..................................04 Set.

12.Automatic Washer……………….………… ..……………04 Sets. Brand: Sut Lick, Origin : Hong Kong, Capacity:………..105 LBS

13.Hydro Extractor……………………………………………02 Set. Brand: Little Duck, Origin: China, Capacity………….....132 LBS

14.Tumbler Dryer………………….………………………….03 Sets.Brand: Sut Lick, Origin: Hong Kong, Capacity…………200 LBS

15.Steam Boiler, Brand: Fulton, Capacity: 470 Kg, Origin, USA ………….01 Set.

16.Steam Boiler, Brand: Universal, Capacity: 470 Kg, Origin, China ……….01 Set.

17.Vacuuming iron Table……………………………………..44 Sets.

18.Inspection lamp…………………………………………….10 Sets.

19.Conveyor Type Metal Detector.............................................01 Set.

20.Brushing Machine..................................................................01 Set.

21.Automatic PP Belting Machine..............................................01 Set.

22.Pantone colour reference book...............................................01 Set.

23.Colour Assessment Cabinet..................................................01 Set.

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Our Main Products: Sweater, Cardigan, Pullover, etc.

For 7 G.G, 12 G.G.Production Capacity:

12GG 13000 DZ / MONTH7GG 2000 DZ / MONTH

Total Staff and Workers: 2350 Nos.

Factory Space Total: 105000 SQ. FT

Target Market: UK, France, Netherlands, Belgium, Germany, USA, Denmark, Sweden, Spain, Italy,Turkey and all European Market.

Nature of Company: Private Limited Company

Bankers: The City Bank Limited Mouchak Branch, 80/A,Siddheswari circular road,

Dhaka- 1217, Bangladesh. TEL:+88 02 837536, +88 02 9357717 FAX : +88 02 8317536

Factory: EVERNAL INDUSTRY LIMITED 3/4-A,Darail, Shataish, Tongi, Gazipur, Bangladesh.

E mail : [email protected]

Corporate Office: 14, Kakrail, Dhaka – 1000, Bangladesh. TEL: +88 02 934 3031, +88 02 934 3032

FAX: +88 02 831 8610

E-mail: [email protected]

Contact Persons: MD. FAROQUE.

Chairman

MD. ALAMGIRManaging Directoremail:[email protected]

MANAB SAHA01921683377

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email:[email protected] [email protected]

Evernal Industry LimitedHave the following facilities for smooth operation :

Own stand by Generator to run full factory.

Advanced Fire protection systems.

CC TV attachment in every Floor for one – stop – monitoring.

Sufficient volume of water reservoir at under ground & overhead.

Pure Drinking Water Facility for all.

Quality electrical cable with auto circuit breakers used in MDBs & SDBs .

Fully tiles fitted toilet complex separately for male & female workers.

Sufficient Tube Lights are provided in all the working areas.

Sufficient Ventilation is provided by installing ceiling fans, exhaust fans & large windows

Factory premises are always kept neat & clean.

No Child labour .

Floors are very clean and during winter season worker can walk bare footed without any difficulties.

First Aid Facility with full – time Doctor & Nurses.

Day Care Center for Babies of lady workers.

Separate dining arrangement with pure drinking water supply.

Electronically maintained timing.

Strictly maintained working hours as per norms.

Thank you very much for studying this profile.

94

Week: 15Lecture: 13

Lecture Title: Shaping calculation of Sweater garments

Selection of outline:

The outline that best suit the full-figured woman should be somewhat loose—just skimming the bust and hips, and never binding at the armholes or too tight in the sleeves. Dolman sleeves or straight, dropped shoulder sleeves are a safe bet because they allow for extra room around the bust and upper arm. Do not choose a body-hugging style with small, set-in sleeves, or puff sleeves, which can accentuate broad shoulders. But do consider that a broadened shoulder line will balance and offset a wide hip line. Classic, semi-fitted styles are suitable as long as they provide at least 3–4"/7.5–10cm of ease to your body measurements.

If you have large hips, tunic-length sweaters, usually covering the hips, are the best choices. Short, boxy sweaters that hit just below the waist will only make your hips look boxy, too.

Look for V-necks, soft, drapery cowls or wide, scooped necklines to show off those collarbones. Any kind of interesting collar detail, such as an asymmetrical closure, gentle ruffles or pretty lace collars will frame your throat and draw the eye upward to your face.

Stitch and Pattern details:

Once the outline is decided, then we have to consider the stitch and pattern details. Vertical or diagonal stripes or pattern stitches are good choices for slimming, elongating effect. We all know that obvious horizontal stripes and patterns stress width. Stay away from stitches that tend to pull in and cling to the body, such as ribbings or lots of cables. Smooth or lightly textured stitches are best, such as stockinette-stitch, seed-stitch, basket weave, small, spaced cables, etc. Avoid very bulky stitches or excessive details like chunky cables, lots of ruffles, etc. These only add bulk and extra width to the sweater—and to the silhouette! And keep in mind that on that the first attempt to alter a pattern, you will have more success if you start with a simple style with no complicated shaping and simple stitch patterns (such as stockinette-stitch). Practice on these kinds of styles before attempting to change a more complicated pattern like one with a great deal of color work or intricate patterns.

Choosing yarn:

Carefully consider the choice of yarn for making a larger size sweater. A larger garment means more knitted fabric. Therefore, the fabric should be as lightweight as possible. This is best achieved with lighter-weight yarns, such as sport and worsted weights. Also, yarns with a flexible, soft hand, such as silk or rayon blends, Shetland or lamb’s wool, give the fabric a more supple, drapey effect. Bulky or highly textured yarns will add excess volume, making for a heavy, thick sweater that will probably be less than pleasing. An important note to remember: Be sure to buy more yarn than is required for the largest size in the instructions.

Selection of Color:

Color is also an important consideration. Black is always slimming. And autumn’s rich, classic darks like navy, charcoal gray, chocolate brown, hunter green and deep maroon also lend themselves to figure flattery. Go ahead and indulge in pretty, soft pastel like crystal aqua,

powder pinks and peaches, and a whole range of soft gray to beige neutrals. Matching the sweater color to your favorite skirt or pants gives a head-to-toe lean, tonal look. With all the exciting yarns available today, finding colors to match other garments in your wardrobe should be a snap!

Finished measurement:

Once we have chosen our sweater style and yarn, we’ll need to decide on the finished measurements of the sweater. The easiest and most accurate way to determine the finished size is to find a sweater in your closet that you know fits well and looks good on you. Lay this garment flat on a firm surface, and, using a tape measure, note the following measurements: Bust from side seam to side seam, plus cross back after armhole shaping; hips or lower edge of sweater; length from shoulder to lower edge; armhole depth; width at upper arm of sleeve; length of sleeve; cuff width; shoulder width or width from armhole seam to seam; and back neck width.

These measurements should reflect your ideal FINISHED MEASUREMENTS.

Compare them to the body measurements at the same points, and the difference should reflect the amount of ease you want in the sweater. Keep both sets of measurements as a guide when adjusting your instructions and for making future sweaters. Now you’re ready to begin altering the instructions to your measurements and desired size. Although the instructions are not given in your size, with patience and a few simple rules, you can size up to make the sweater of your dreams. As an example, let’s use a pattern that goes up to a 38" bust. The largest size given in the instructions is for a size 38"/96cm bust, with a finished measurement of 40"/101cm.

Obviously, this allows for 2"/5cm of ease. Let’s say you have a 44"/112cm bust, so proportionately you would want to add 3"/7.5cm of ease for a finished bust measurement of 47"/119cm. Following are the steps necessary to alter this pattern to your desired size:

1. Read through the entire set of instructions first to get a good idea of how all the pieces are made.2. GET THE GAUGE! You must knit a test swatch of at least 4"/10cm square, changing needle size if necessary to obtain both the stitch

and row gauges given in the pattern. In this particular pattern the gauge is 16 stitches and 20 rows to 4"/10cm (or 4 stitches and 5 rows to 1"/2.5cm) over stockinette-stitch using size 9/5.5mm needles.

3. Write in the finished measurements you want on the measurement diagram (schematic) provided at the end of the instructions.

4. Calculate, if necessary, the number of stitches you will need according to the gauge. It is best to jot down all calculations before beginning to knit. Note: the calculations in this section are figured according to INCHES only.

BACK: Since the new finished bust measurement is 47", the back should measure half this number, which is 23½", multiplied by 4 (because gauge is 4 stitches to 1") = 94 stitches (sts). Therefore, you must cast on 94 sts for your back piece. Work in the pattern following instructions until desired length to underarm: Here work until back measures 16½" from turning ridge. Before figuring the armhole shaping, see what your cross back measurement is after the armhole. In this case it is 19½" (see diagram) x 4 = 78 sts should be left. Therefore, 94 – 78 = 16 sts must be decreased at armhole. The first bind-off sts usually are the same as in the instructions. However, if you need to decrease many more sts than called for in the original instruction, you can bind off an extra 2 or 3 sts at the beginning of the armhole. For our example we will use the same bind-off as in the pattern, which states: “Bind off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows.” Now you have 8 more sts to decrease (4 sts each side). The instructions say to “dec 1 st each side every other row 3 times.” This only decreases 6 sts (3 each side), therefore you must work decreases every other row one more time for a total of 8 sts decreased.

Now continue on 78 sts for desired armhole depth 10". Now calculate your back of neck: 9½" x 4 = 38 sts which must be left at center back after shoulder shaping. Therefore, 78 – 38 = 40 sts (20 sts each side) to be decreased for shoulder. The shoulder shaping in the instructions is done in 6 rows, therefore bind off 6 sts at beginning of next 2 rows (12 sts) and 7 sts at beginning of next 4 rows (28 sts): (12) + (28) = 40 sts decreased in 6 rows. You may have to do some trial-and-error math to work out your own personal neck and shoulder shaping.

FRONT: Work the front same as back until desired length to beginning of neck (the schematic shows your neck to be dropped 2" from the first shoulder bind-off, therefore 10" – 2" = 8". Work until armhole measures 8". To figure your front neck shaping, you must be sure to end up with the same number of sts for the shoulder after the neck decreases as on the back (in this case, there are 20 sts for each shoulder). Keep the decreases at the side of the neck the same as the instructions. (In this instruction it is “dec 1 st at each neck edge every other row 3 times.”) You have 78 sts after the armhole minus 40 sts for shoulders minus 6 sts decreased at neck edges equal 32 sts to be bound-off at center neck.

SLEEVES: Your desired wrist measurement is 9½" x 4 = 38 sts to cast on. Your width at upper arm is 17" x 4 = 68 sts. There are no increases in the cuff, which is approximately 1¾" in the cording pattern. Your length to the underarm is 19¾" – 1¾" = 18" x 5 = 90 rows. Therefore 68 – 38 = 30 sts to be increased in 90 rows, so increase 1 st each end every 6th row 15 times (6 x 15 = 90 rows).

CAP SHAPING: Always bind off the same number of sts as on the first 2 rows of the armhole shaping for back and front; in this case, bind off 4 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows and there are 60 sts left. The last bind-off at the top of the cap should measure approximately the same as the original pattern: we will use 18 sts which equal 4½". You now must decide the depth of your sleeve cap based on the measurement for either the front or back armhole: Your armhole measures 10", the top of your cap is 4½" which you must divide by 2 equaling 2¼", therefore 10" – 2¼" = 7¾". Usually in the last ½" to 1" of the cap you bind off ½" to 1" each side. Let’s bind off 1" or 4 sts each side (8 sts bound off in all) at beginning of next 4 rows (which is approximately 1" long). Now subtract this 1" depth from the remaining sleeve cap which is 7¾" to get 6¾" or 33¾" rows rounded to 34 rows as the depth of your cap before your last bind-offs. Now subtract the sts at the top of the cap (18) plus the bound-off sts before the cap (8) from the sts remaining after the first armhole bindoff: 60 – 18 – 8= 34 sts to be decreased in 34 rows, so “dec 1 st each end every other row 17 times.”

COLLAR: Since this particular collar is made separately from the top down, you may want to figure the collar after you have finished making the rest of the sweater. In this case, measure around the entire neck edge of your finished sweater (adding an extra inch since the bound-off edge tends to pull in), and multiply this measurement by 4 to get the number of stitches you need at the end of the collar. To figure the number of stitches you’ll need to cast on, read the pattern backwards, making the increases to correspond to the decreases, until you end up with your final increase (which will become your first decrease as you make the collar).

Week: 16Lecture: 14

Lecture Title: Quality guidelines of sweaters16 QUALITY GUIDELINES OF SWEATERS

QUALITY GUID LINE FOR SWEATER GARMENTS :

The following steps to be followed to maintain quality of sweater garments :

1. Study the sample :I. Fabric weight (full garments)II. Yarn count / gaugeIII. Machine gauge.IV. Color Fastness.V. Stretch and Recovery.VI. Design analysis record..

2. Apply the study result at time of production.

3. Check the quality of ready garments.I. Fabric defect.II. Broken end.III. Broken Pick.

IV. Mixed design.V. Stain.

4. Finishing Quality check :I. Style and Get up.II. Accessories.III. Quantity and packing as order sheet.

Week: 17

Lecture: 15

Lecture Title: Yarn Consumption calculation & Costing of Sweater garments

Weight Calculation: Suppose, 250 gms yarn are required for the production of a sweater then weight calculation will be as follows: = 250 gm= (250x12) gm= 3000 gm= 3 kg= 3x2.20=6.6147 lb/dozen

Yarn: 80% Lambswool 20% Nylon 2/16

RefGaug

eColou

rqty/pcs qty/doz

Prev Wt.

Final Wt.

westage

Incl.West Total

G.Total

Linking Yarn G.Total

09I-00 00114 5 32 2279 189.92 7.00 7 8% 7.561435.7

7 1440 47.48 50

09I-00 00251 5 70 2503 208.58 7.00 7 8% 7.561576.8

9 1580 52.15 54

09I-00 00064 7 61 3158 263.17 5.00 5 8% 5.401421.1

0 1425 65.79 68

09I-00 00143 7 42 2999 249.92 5.00 5 8% 5.401349.5

5 1355 62.48 64

09I-00 00252 7 23 1058 88.17 5.00 5 8% 5.40 476.10 480 22.04 22

09I-00 00301 7 20 1402 116.83 5.00 5 8% 5.40 630.90 635 29.21 32

09I-00 00363 7 40 2422 201.83 5.00 5 8% 5.401089.9

0 1095 50.46 52

09I-00 00115 7 90 1325 110.42 5.50 5 8% 5.40 596.25 600 27.60 29

09I-00 00168 7 71 564 47.00 5.50 5 8% 5.40 253.80 260 11.75 13

09I-00 00253 7 80 2998 249.83 5.50 5 8% 5.401349.1

0 1355 62.46 64

09I-00 00356 7 62 3079 256.58 5.50 5 8% 5.401385.5

5 1390 64.15 66

09I-00 00065 7 38 2684 223.67 5.50 5.5 8% 5.941328.5

8 1335 55.92 57

09I-00 00186 7 42 836 69.67 5.00 3.5 8% 3.78 263.34 270 17.42 19

09 I-0000420 7

80 934 77.83 2.00 2 10% 2.20 171.23 175 19.46 22

81 934 77.83 0.07 0.1 20% 0.12 9.34 15 0.00 0

32 934 77.83 0.25 0.2 20% 0.24 18.68 25 0.00 0

09I-00 00428 7 80 892 74.33 1.50 0.75 8% 0.81 60.21 70 18.58 22

Total 13505 634

Basic Requirement for Sweater Costing:

1) Material quality.2) Weight of the garment.3) Style & Design.4) Production & Delivery Time.5) Payment Mode.

6) L/C type.7) Lab test requirement

Price of Yarn:

Yarn Price100% Rayon $2.50/lbs100% Nylon $3.10/lbs95% Cotton & 5% lycra $ 7.80/lbs65% Rayon & 35% Nylon $ 3.20/lbs60% Viscose & 40% Cotton $ 2.70/lbsSilver lurex $ 6.90/lbs65% Viscose & 35% Cotton $ 3.20/lbs

SL STYLE YARN

GG

Weight /lbs

Price / pc

Target Remarks

109I -

0000252

80% wool 20% Nylon 2/16 Nm 5 6.5 - 7$6.2

0 Normal Wash

209I -

0000301

80% wool 20% Nylon 2/16 Nm 5 6.5 - 7$6.2

0 Normal Wash

3 09I - 80% wool 20% Nylon 2/16 Nm 5 6.5 - 7 $6.2 Normal Wash

0000363

0

409I -

0000143

80% wool 20% Nylon 2/16 Nm 5 6.5 - 7$6.2

0 Normal Wash

509I -

0000064

80% wool 20% Nylon 2/16 Nm 5 6.5 - 7$6.2

0 Normal Wash

609I -

0000114

80% wool 20% Nylon 2/16 Nm 5 6.5 - 7$6.2

0 Normal Wash

709I -

0000251

80% wool 20% Nylon 2/16 Nm 5 6.5 - 7$6.2

0 Normal Wash

809I -

0000428

80% wool 20% Nylon 2/16 Nm 7 1 - 1.5$2.1

5 Normal Wash

909I -

0000065

80% wool 20% Nylon 2/16 Nm 7 5 - 5.5$5.4

0 Normal Wash

10

09I - 000018

680% wool 20% Nylon 2/16 Nm 7 4.5 - 5

$5.00 Normal Wash

11

09I - 000011

580% wool 20% Nylon 2/16 Nm 7 5 - 5.5

$5.40 Normal Wash

12

09I - 000025

380% wool 20% Nylon 2/16 Nm 7 5 - 5.5

$5.40 Normal Wash

13

09I - 000016

880% wool 20% Nylon 2/16 Nm 7 5 - 5.5

$5.40 Normal Wash

14

09I - 000035

80% wool 20% Nylon 2/16 Nm 7 5 - 5.5 $5.40

Normal Wash

6

15

09I - 000042

050% Merino Wool 50% Cotton 2/16 Nm 7 2 - 2.5

$2.65

16

09I - 000000

6100% Cotton 2/20 3 5.5 - 6

$4.00

17

09I - 000053

0

30% Viscose 30%LW 20% Cotton 20% Nylon 2/28 12 3.5 - 4

$5.55

18

09I - 000009

7


$5.30 Shoulder Rib will be vertical

19

09I - 000052

8


$5.20

20

09I - 000039

4


$4.70

21

09I - 000010

7


$4.95

22

09I - 000031

2


$4.95

23

09I - 000005

1


$4.95

24

09I - 000032

9


$4.95

25

09I - 000024

1


$4.95

26

09I - 000023

4


$4.95

27

09I - 000007

9


$4.95

28

09I - 000001

0


$4.95

29

09I - 000014

2


$4.95

30

09I - 000002

075% Merino 25% Angora 2/9 Nm 5 5 - 5.5

$7.15

Bottom/cuff/collar/band knit as per our proposal I/O garter stitch

31

09I - 000040

050% Merino Wool 50% Acrylic 2/16 Nm 7 2.5 - 3

$3.05

32

09I - 000041

950% Merino Wool 50% Acrylic 2/16 Nm 7 2.5 - 3

$3.05

33

09I - 000048

050% Merino Wool 50% Cotton 2/16 Nm 7 2 - 2.5

$2.80 Our proposal I/O garter stitch

34

09I - 000031

150% Merino Wool 50% Cotton 2/16 Nm 5 6.5 - 7

$6.30

35

09I - 000009

150% Merino Wool 50% Cotton 2/16 Nm 5 6.5 - 7

$6.30

CM Break Down:

CM Breakdown

STYLE YARN GG

Wgt With

Yarn

Yarn

YARN Com

TRM

Embd

CM

FOB FOB Final Target

No. (lbs) Ws Act Pric

e($) 5% ($)

($)

DOZ($)

PCS($) Price Price

09I - 0000006 100% Cotton 2/20 3 6 6.48

2.2 14.26

0.71

3 30 47.97 4.00 $4.00

$3.85

09I - 0000020 75% Merino 25% Angora 2/9 Nm 5 5.5 5.94

7.9 8.1 48.11

2.41

3 32 85.52 7.13 $7.15

$6.70

09I - 0000252 80% wool 20% Nylon 2/16 Nm 7 7 7.56

5.4 5.6 42.34

2.12

3 1 26 74.45 6.20 $6.20

$5.70

09I - 0000420 80% wool 20% Nylon 2/16 Nm 7 2.5 2.7 5.4 5.6 15.12

0.76

2 14 31.88 2.66 $2.70

$2.65

09I - 0000400 50% Merino Wool 50% Acrylic 2/16 Nm 7 3 3.24

5.2 5.4 17.50

0.87

2 16 36.37 3.03 $3.05

$3.00

09I - 0000480 50% Merino Wool 50% Cotton 2/16 Nm 7 2.5 2.7 5.3 5.5 14.85

0.74

2 16 33.59 2.80 $2.80

$2.40

09I - 0000530 30% Viscose 30%LW 20% Cotton 20% Nylon 2/28

12 4 4.32

4.95 5.2 22.46

1.12

5 38 66.59 5.55 $5.55

$5.20

SL STYLE YARN GG Wgt Final Target Remark

NO

No. (lbs) Price Price

1 09I - 0000006

100% Cotton 2/20 3 6 $4.00 $3.85 Normal Wash

2 09I - 0000020

75% Merino 25% Angora 2/9 Nm 5 5.5 $7.15 $6.70

3 09I - 0000252

80% wool 20% Nylon 2/16 Nm 7 7 $6.20 $5.70

4 09I - 0000420

80% wool 20% Nylon 2/16 Nm 7 2.5 $2.70 $2.65

5 09I - 0000400

50% Merino Wool 50% Acrylic 2/16 Nm 7 3 $3.05 $3.00

7 09I - 0000480

50% Merino Wool 50% Cotton 2/16 Nm 7 2.5 $2.80 $2.40

8 09I - 0000530

30% Viscose 30%LW 20% Cotton 20% Nylon 2/28

12 4 $5.55 $5.20

CM (Cost of Manufacturing) for Peak & Off-peak season:

Gauge Off-peak Peak3 $17 $195 $18 $207 $19 $2112 $22 $24

Costing of Sweater:

A Sample costing procedure is described below:

Suppose,

01) Yarn used for making sweater 100% Acrylic02) Yarn needed 7.5 lbs/Dzn03) Sweater gauge 3 gg.04) Ship Date: 30 September,201005) Ship mode: FOB06) L/C at Sight.07) Normal garment test from ITS08) Plastic Button & Stopper 36 L

Total yarn is needed with wastages:= 7.5+ 10% wastages=8.25 lbs

Now Yarn price= 8.25 x $2.00 (yarn price $ 2.00 /lbs) =$ 16.5Final Cost Sheet:

Yarn ------------------ ---------------- $ 16.5 / Dzn

Button / Stopper-------- $ 6.2+$ 3= $ 9.2Draw Cord----------------------------- $ 1.25Trim’s ----------------------------------- $ 4.00CM--------------------------------------- $ 19.00

Others----------------------------------- $ 3.00Total = $ 52.95 / Dzn

$52.95+10% = $ 55/ Dzn

= $ 4.5/ Pc (FOB)

Week: 18

Lecture Title: Review & Problem Solving Class

KNT 305

Documents

Transcript of KNT 305