KNITTINGKNITTING

KARTHIKA M DEV

Weft KnittingWeft Knitting• In weft knitting, the loops are formed across width of

the fabric , and each weft thread is fed , more or less at right angles to the direction in which the fabric is produced.

• It is possible to knit with only one thread or cone of yarn. All the loops in one course are produced from the single supply and loops are formed successive order one by one.

• In this method the fabric is produced by simple up and down movement of the needles, which is provided by the profile of a cam system. The knitting cams are the devices which convert the rotary machine drive into a suitable reciprocating motion of the needles. Depending on the design of the machine the cams are fixed, adjustable or exchangeable.

• The knitting action can be explained as follows:

1. Rest position- The needle is in the rest position with the old loop in the hook of

the needle.

2. Tuck Position – the needle is raised and old loop is on the latch of the needle.

3. Clearing position – The needle is raised higher to clear the loop from the latch.

The needle reached at the top of the cam and old loop is on the stem of the

needle.

4. Yarn Feeding Position – The needle is lowered with old loop new yarn is being

fed to the open hook of the needle.

5. Latch Closing position – The needle is lowered further and the old loop closes

the latch trapping the new yarn inside the hook.

6. Knock over position ( loop forming) – the needle is lowered still further and

old loop slides over the trapped new yarn inside the hook, forming a new loop by

completing the knitting cycle. Knitting cycle is completed with the new loop in

the hook of the needle.

• The knitting action

1. Rest position 2. Tuck Position 3. Clearing position 4. Yarn Feeding

Position

5. Latch Closing position 6. Knock over position ( loop forming)

Weft KnittingWeft Knitting

Single Jersey or Plain Single Jersey or Plain fabricfabric

• A fabric in which the knitted loops are the same sort and meshed in the same manner

• Single jersey is the simplest to knit and it can be produced either on circular or flat machines by means of one set of needles which draw their loops to only one side of the fabric.

• The fabric has one appearance on the face side and a different one on the reverse. The side on which the straight parts of the stitches appear in V formation is called the face side ( Technical Face) and the reverse side ( Technical Back ) has twin rows of opposed semi circles.

Properties Of Single JerseyProperties Of Single Jersey Simplest knit structure. Face side smooth and sheen. Back side rough and dull. Lighter fabric. Economical. Easily ravels at both the ends. Highly extensible in length and width. The fabric curls towards the face at the top and bottom and

towards the back at the sides. Laddering is very common in these fabrics. Knitted loops in plain knit fabrics tend to distort easily under

tension which helps to give a form fitting and comfort due to property of elastic.

Purl FabricPurl Fabric Purl fabric is produced by drawing face

and reverse loops at alternate courses, where odd number of courses have all reverse loops and even number of courses have all face loops.

It can be done on either flat or circular machine.

Several purl structures can be produced be arranging the face and reverse loops in different orders.

Properties Of PurlProperties Of PurlBoth sides of the fabric are similar in

appearance to the reverse side of the single jersey fabric

Ravels from both endsTwice the thickness of the plain jerseyRate of production is lowAlmost equal extensibility in length

and widthMost suitable for children’s garments,

blankets shawls and scarf etc.

Rib FabricRib Fabric• A fabric in which both back

and face loops occur along the course, but all the loops contained with in any wale are of the same types

• A rib structure implies a knitted fabric with face and back loops occurring in the same courses but not in the same wale

• Rib fabric can be produced on V – bed machine and footwear machine.

Properties Of RibProperties Of RibDouble Face or Reversible fabricSimilar cord appearance in each

sideThicker and heavier fabricRavels only at end knitted lastLies flat without curlExcellent width way elasticityForm fitting.

Interlock FabricInterlock Fabric Interlock is the name given to a double faced rib based

structure containing of two rib fabrics interlocked together. The production of interlock fabric needs two needle beds,

having long and short needles arranged alternately on both the beds.

Two feeders are required to knit a single repeat of interlock and also cam systems are arranged accordingly.

Properties Of InterlockProperties Of InterlockBoth sides of the fabric have an

appearance like face side of the single jersey fabric. It is a reversible fabric as rib one.

The structure do nor curl at edges when laid flat on surface

Horizontal and vertical stripes can be produced by using coloured yarns

The fabric ravels only from the end knitted last

The rate of production is low.