Knitscene Fall 2015

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simple-stylish-spirited

SEAMLESS GARMENTS from Mari Chiba

Plus 4 More Seamless Sweaters to Knit

Perfect Fall Patterns

get this

KIT page 16

22Learn Brioche

Knitting Techniques

OUR 10 th Anniversary ISSUE!

Exclusive Custom Socks Pattern!page 36

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contents knitscene Fall 2015

knitscene.com

12 Designer Canted Pullover 12Mari Chiba

Allotrope Pullover 13Mari Chiba

Solitude Jacket 14Mari Chiba

Pennant Cardi 15Mari Chiba

16 Brioche Building BlocksCaen Cowl 16Deborah Helmke

Bayeux Cowl 18Jennifer Mattesky

Tourlaville Shawl 19Zsuzsa Kiss

Orne Cardigan 20Meiju K-P

Bessin Scarf 21Sharon Fuller

Argentan Pullover 22Leah McGlone

30 A Good YarnCormac Sweater 31Leah B. Thibault

O’Connor Cowl 32Harry Wells

Faulkner Hat 33Angela Hahn

Caldwell Pullover 34Courtney Spainhower

Williams Cloche 35Sarah Solomon

46 Style IconMaduri Sweater 48Che Lam

Hyannis Port Pullover 49Cecily Glowik MacDonald

Couturier Jacket 50Nadya Stallings

Oddity Scarf 52Annie Watts

Brigitte Headband 53Avril Lang

Virginie Pullover 54Michele Wang

projects

4 Editor’s Note

6 Materials A Closer Look Pattern Play Book Talk

96 Blogspotting: Joan of Dark Knits

Above: Pennant Cardi, page 15Cover: Caen Cowl, featured on page 16

departments 12 Designer Pro� le:

Mari ChibaStefanie Goodwin-Ritter

23 Book Excerpt: Brioche ChicMercedes Tarasovich-Clark

36 Book Exclusive: Prewitt SocksKate Atherley

42 Ten Years of Knitscene Amy Palmer

features

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http://www.knitscene.com

Interweave Founder, Creative Director Linda Ligon Vice President, Group Publisher Shahla HebetsSenior Production Manager Nancy PollockeCommerce Marketing Manager Evelyn Bridge

Mark Fleetwood

F+W Media Inc.Chairman & CEO David Nussbaum

James OglePresident Sara Domville

Chad PhelpsSenior Vice President, Operations Phil GrahamVice President, Communications Stacie Berger

Enjoy the entire family of Interweave �ber magazinesInterweave Knits, Interweave Crochet, Knitscene, knit.purl, PieceWork, Handwoven, Spin.Off, Knitting Traditions

Visit us on the Web • knittingdaily.com • interweave.com • fwmedia.com

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knitting gaugeTo check gauge, cast on thirty to forty stitches using recom-mended needle size. Work in pattern stitch until piece measures at least 4" (10 cm) from cast-on edge. Remove swatch from

a ruler over swatch and count number of stitches across and number of rows down (including fractions of stitches and rows) in 4" (10 cm). Repeat two or three times on different areas of

and rows than called for in instructions, use larger needles; if you have fewer, use smaller needles. Repeat until gauge is correct.

reading chartsUnless otherwise indicated, read charts from the bottom up. On right-side rows, read charts from right to left. On wrong-side rows, read charts from left to right. When knitting in the round, read charts from right to left for all rounds.

beg beginning; begin; begins BO bind off CO cast on dec decrease(s); decreasing g gram(s) inc increase(s); increasing k knit k1f&b knit into front and back kwise knitwise m marker(s) mm millimeter(s) p purl p1f&b purl into front and back pm place marker psso pass slipped stitch over p2sso pass two slipped stitches over pwise purlwise

rem remain(s); remaining rep repeat(s); repeating rev St st reverse stockinette stitch rnd(s) round(s) RS right side sl slip st(s) stitch(es) St st stockinette stitch tbl through back loop tog together WS wrong side yo yarnover * gnitrats taeper

point (i.e., repeat from *)

( ) -aem etanretla surements and/or instructions

[ ] taht snoitcurtsni are to be worked as

number of times

learn it • abbreviations

➻ Need More Help? Visit knittingdaily.com/Glossary for a complete glossary of stitches.

editorialeditorial director Helen Gregoryeditor Amy Palmermanaging editor Allison Mackinassistant editor Louisa Demmittsenior project editor Joni Coniglioassistant project editor Laura Hulslander

srotide lacinhcet Tracey Davidson, Karen Frisa, Julie Gaddy, Larissa Gibson, Robin Melanson, Daniela Nii, Heather Zoppetticopy editor Amanda Borowskiproofreader Nancy Arndt

creative servicescreative director, Interweave Larissa Davis art director Kit Kinsethdesigner Debbie Longsenior production designer Dean Howesphotography projects Nathan Rega, Harper Point Photographyphotostyling Katie Himmelberghair & makeup Kira Friedman, Janie Rocekillustrations Gayle Ford, Kathie Kelleher, Kit Kinseth

advertisingadvertising manager Diane [email protected] manager Sally Finnegan

Mary Lutz Tina Hickman

marketing managers, eCommerce Julianne Atwood, Annie Hartman Bakken

Interweave Press Knitscene® (ISSN 2328-286X print and 2328- fo noisivid a ,evaewretnI yb ylretrauq dehsilbup si )enilno 0492

F+W Media, Inc., 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525. (800) 272-2193. All contents of this issue of Knitscene are © 2015 by F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. Projects and infor-

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Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please visit us online at knitscene.com/corrections.asp.

Knitscene does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services, or views advertised in Knitscene. Nor does Knitscene evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judg-

dna ,secivres ,stcudorp ,sresitrevda eht gnitaulave ni tnemviews advertised in Knitscene.

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>>>>>>>>>>> glossary

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beginner : basic s t i tches

level of difficulty

easy: moving past scarves

intermediate : pret ty con�dent

advanced: chal lenge mysel f

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mailto:[email protected]



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Lion Brand® YarnTradition has no substitute.For the past 137 years, Lion Brand Yarn has helped defi ne the culture ofknitting and crocheting in America. As a family-run business we bringthe same sense of pride and quality to every product we make so that youcan create and share more treasured moments with the people you love.

lionbrand.com | The most popular online destination for yarn crafters in the world.

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“Now wake up and get clicking!” Ten-ish years ago, Pam Allen used that phrase to sign off the � rst ever editor’s note for Knitscene. In the last ten years, Knitscene has grown and evolved in so many ways, and it’s humbling and terrifying and daunting to try to write an editor’s note for this, our tenth anniversary issue—more so than every other editor’s note I’ve had to write. I talk more about the last ten years of the magazine on pages 42 and 44.

Knitscene has always strived to provide fun knitting projects that can be completed relatively quickly, trying to blend projects a new knitter could tackle while also providing a little challenge to more experienced knitters. In this issue, we’re running our � rst brioche story, Brioche Building Blocks (pages 16–22). Brioche knitting is one of those things that generally appears more dif� cult than it is—if you can work in knit one, purl one rib and create yarnovers, you can knit brioche. Plus, we have an excerpt from Mercedes Tarasovich-Clark’s Brioche Chic to help you get started. Already pro� cient with this technique? There are a couple of projects for you, too.

We turn the pages back to the 1960s and ’70s for our Style Icon story (pages 46–55); six projects inspired by fashion icons such as Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Brigitte Bardot, and even David Bowie! A Good Yarn (pages 30–35) pairs delightful yarns with beautiful projects. Finally, designer Mari Chiba delivers four fun and seamless cardigans and sweaters in her design collection (pages 12–15).

Thank you for knitting with us these last ten years, and here’s to many more!

Happy knitting,

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Thank you to the Poudre Landmarks Foundation for sharing the amazing Fort Collins Water Works facility with us, and for the Downtown Artery (www.downtownartery.com) for allowing us to photograph on their awesome back patio space, including the incredible mural by Lindee Zimmer. For more of Lindee’s work, visit www.zimmerlindee.com or follow her on Twitter @lindeezimmer.

Connect with the Knitscene team, as well as the other Interweave knitting titles,

at knittingdaily.com and on Twitter (@AmyPalmerKnits).

We have 22 fantastic patterns in this issue, but

there’s so much more online!

To quickly see all of our featured products and kits in this issue go to:

Interweavestore.com/knitting/browse-by/inside-knitscene

>>>>>>>>>>> editorial

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http://www.knittingdaily.com

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>>>>>>>>>> materials

Designer and tech editor Kate Atherley has a passion for helping knitters better understand knitting patterns.

We’ve invited Kate to share her knowledge in this new column to

aid fledgling and experienced knitters alike. First up: choosing yarn.

Once you’ve decided a particular pattern must be knit, it’s time to look for yarn. It’s easier to choose the pattern first, then find the yarn. I’m going to focus on accessory patterns, to keep things simple.

Interweave patterns list the brand and name of yarn, fiber content, yardage, and put-up (both the shape—ball or skein—and weight of the yarn, generally given in ounces or grams). Any pattern should also tell you how many units of yarn you’ll need and list the color name or number used for the sample. This information helps you buy the right yarn, in the right amount, for the project.

Generally, yarns are chosen to best suit the project, and it’s simplest to use the recommended yarn. But there are many factors that lead to yarn substitution, so let’s figure out the necessary information to do so.

Figure out how much you’ll need to buy: multiply the number of units used for the pattern by the number of yards per unit to get the total yards used. In this pattern example, I’d need 520 yards of yarn to knit the cowl.

Check the put-up mentioned earlier, as some brands have different sizes. Some sock yarns come in both 50- and 100-gram balls. If the pattern calls for one ball, I need to make sure I get the correct weight.

Take into consideration that different fibers weigh dif-ferent amounts. Cotton is heavier than wool, so a 100-gram skein of worsted-weight wool will have more yards than a 100-gram skein of worsted-weight cot-ton. Also consider the type of fiber—if it’s an animal fiber, stay with animal-fiber-based yarns; if it’s cotton or another plant fiber, look to that family of yarns. Is the texture fuzzy or smooth? If a solid or semisolid color is

used to highlight a texture pattern, stick with that. If you can’t find that exact yarn in your LYS, look it up online to get a sense of what it looks like.

Once you’ve chosen a yarn, take that total-yards-used number and divide it by the number of yards in the chosen yarn. In our example, if a new yarn has 110 yards to a unit, I’d need 4.73 units of yarn—so I’d purchase five units of my substituted yarn. ❤

For more tips on substituting yarn, watch our on-demand Secrets of Yarn Substitution web seminar.

bit.ly/YarnSubstitution-seminar

Ma la br igo Chu n k y

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❤✿✿❤ ❤✿

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Caen CowlDeborah Helmke

p age 16

Size 72" circumference and 11" wideYarn Malabrigo Chunky (100% merino wool; 104 yd [95 m]/100 g): • # 148 holly hock, 5 skeinsGauge 11 sts and 20 rows = 4" in Brioche stTools• S ize 11 (8 mm) needles• T apestry needle• 1 4" piece of cardboard

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Kate Atherley

Photo by Garrett Evans

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http://bit.ly/YarnSubstitution-seminar

Lithosphere Shawl Pattern Rowan Kidsilk Haze & Fine Art.

Buy the yarn as a kit or as a bouquet.

Go ahead, make someone’s day!

www.jimmybeanswool.com

Beautiful yarn is a Fine Art S

seen through a (Kidsilk) Haze

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http://www.jimmybeanswool.com/lithosphere

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art to the inclusion of knit fabrics in mainstream fashion happened. From homespun to runway ready, knitting has taken off over the years!

One of my favorite sections talks about the history of knit accessories, like gloves and mittens. There is a really fantastic example of theScandinavian technique known as tvåändsstickning in Swedish, or “two end knitting” (also called twined knit-ting). This involves using two strands of the same color yarn, knitting one stitch with one strand, the next stitch with the other strand, and then back to the � rst. It creates a really thick, warm fabric, perfect for keeping out cold winter wind. The mittens shown

Knitting: Fashion, Industry, Craft (V&A Publishing, 2012) by Sandy Black is an extensively comprehen-sive and incredibly beautiful look at the history and evolution of knitting. Filled with rich photos, many from the esteemed Victoria and Albert Museum in London, and detailed stories, there is information about the craft’s origins as well as how different cultures have created unique methods and fabrics, all starting with similar fundamentals. You will learn about the “development of knitting from domestic handcraft to one of the most sophisticated computer-controlled textile production processes used in fashion,” and how the transition of knitting from a folk

are very dense, but the knitting is so delicate, the patterning is so subtle. I have used this technique before, but did not know about its origins.

Paintings, photographs, manu-scripts, and other historical documents and references are included, creating a � eshed out history that propels a reader through the book. As an art history major with a special place in my heart for folk art, this book is a perfect creation. It combines the beauty of a coffee table book with the information of a text book into one tome for knitters everywhere to treasure. ❤

Louisa Demmitt is assistant editor of Knitscene and is more than slightly obsessed with folk art.

bit.ly/KFICbook

>>>>>>>>>>> materials

The Only Knitting History You NeedAn Art History Major’s Take on Sandy Black’s Knitting: Fashion, Industry, Craft

When I started trying to write a review of this book, I spent three hours with an open document that just said “This book is…” Not because I couldn’t think of what to say, but because there is too much to try to distill down to one review!

Louisa Demmitt

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http://bit.ly/KFICbook

FREE Cable Afghan pattern at: www.yarnspirations.com/blanket-cable-afghan

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MARI CHIBAStefanie Goodwin-Ritter

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Photo by B

rian

Luke

Mari Chiba’s Crazy Ideas

Canted Pullover This simple pullover is worked with a side-to-side asymmetrical hem before stitches are picked up to work the bodice. Stitches are picked up to form the sleeves, making this sweater completely seamless. Yarn Swans Island Organic Washable DK Pattern page 56

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MARI CHIBA

A typical interaction with Mari Chiba begins with “I have a vision!” or “I have a crazy idea!”—and quite often, these wacky ideas (or some version of them) become reality. I � rst met Mari at the Summer 2012 TNNA Trade Show in Columbus, Ohio, when she was working in the Lotus Yarns booth. It wasn’t long after that chance encounter that she became my colleague at Stitchcraft Marketing.

Over the years, I’ve gotten to know Mari better, despite the fact that we live in different parts of the country; an integral part of our day involves chatting over Skype to discuss issues related to work, designing, and yarn—and sometimes, completely random things that have nothing to do with the � ber-arts industry!

Unsurprisingly, Mari’s “crazy” ideas spill over into the world of designing. For proof of that, look no further than her “Two Hands” series, which puts an interesting spin on traditional colorwork motifs by splitting an image in half between two wearable pieces (mittens or gloves). When asked about her approach, Mari admits that she designs things she likes to knit and wear: “I go for clean lines, and I like pretty simple stitches.” The result is a body of work that features designs that are eye-catching, modern, and easy to wear.

Like so many � ber folks I know, Mari has an interesting backstory: her mother tried to teach her to knit when she was eight or nine years old, but it didn’t grab hold until many years later when she was serving in the Peace Corps in Armenia. Living in a small village, she needed some-thing to entertain her during the long, cold winters, and re-learning how to

Allotrope Pullover Knit in the round to the underarms, this pullover features an all-over diamond motif in the body. To keep the knitting seamless, Mari picked up stitches to form the sleeve cap before knitting the sleeves in the round down to the cuff. Yarn Anzula Haiku Pattern page 58

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knit suddenly became an appealing option! This second attempt was self-directed for the most part; while a few volunteers had helpful tips to share along the way, Mari mostly knit and re-knit the same things again and again to experiment with how adding a stitch here or decreasing one there would change the shape of the finished fabric.

It wasn’t too much of a leap to begin designing: Mari admits that she has never been a person to follow directions, and after a few frustrating attempts at following patterns with lackluster results, she began to make up her own designs for hats, cowls, and shawls, mostly by trial and error. By this point, she had moved to China to teach English, which is where she happened to meet the owner of Lotus Yarns. This serendipitous encounter proved to be mutually beneficial. Mari started writing patterns for the company in exchange for free yarn, opening a veritable Pandora’s box (albeit, one filled with yarn).

When Mari’s pattern appeared on the cover of the Unofficial Harry Potter Knits (Ginny’s Cardigan), the compul-sion to design only grew stronger. “I dream of sweaters and they won’t stop bugging me until they come into life in yarn!” she jokes, but only a little—like most jokes, there is a grain of truth behind the punchline, and Mari has an incredible drive coupled with a truly artistic approach. “I get an idea, and I develop it into a design, but once it’s out there, it’s up to the world to interpret,” she says.

While Ravelry has made it possible for virtually anyone to share a design with the world, it takes quite a bit of determination and creativity to make working in the fiber-arts industry a job that can reliably pay the bills. Mari does a little bit of everything during a typical work week: in addition to self-publishing her own work and submit-ting to well-known publications such as Knitscene and Interweave Knits, she teaches part-time at her local yarn

Solitude Jacket This seamless cardigan is worked in one piece to the underarms, before the sleeves are knit separately and then joined to the body to work the yoke. A deep rib-bing pattern at the shoulders and bottom hem offset a simple garter-stitch cowl shaped with short-rows. Yarn Solitude Wool Romney Semi-Worsted Spun Pattern page 60

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Pennant Cardi A bottom-up seamless-yoke cardigan features a simple yoke detail, inspired by pom-poms. Front buttonbands are worked simultaneously with the body, meaning there’s no worry about picking up stitches for the buttonbands. Yarn Indigodragon� y OctoBaa Pattern page 61

shop and is also an account manager for Stitchcraft Marketing, a full-service agency providing marketing strategy, graphic design, and a host of other services tailored especially for the craft industry. “All of my jobs are fun, though sometimes stressful, and I feel pretty lucky that I was able to create my own niche,” she says. “Like so many of my generation, I was underemployed for a long time, working constantly to try to make ends meet. Thankfully, things have improved over the last year—but as much as I love designing, I just can’t imagine it would ever be a full-time thing for me.”

Mari and I often joke that we both need clones to accomplish everything on our to-do lists, not to mention everything we wish we could get done on any given day. However, with the pace at which Mari’s design career has started to take off, I predict that the grain of truth behind our shared joke might become less of a punchline in the not-so-distant future! ❤

Stefanie Goodwin-Ritter has been knitting since 2003; she added crochet and handspinning to her repertoire along the way and blogs about her fibery exploits at www.handmadebystefanie.blogspot.com.

Mari’s Ginny Cardigan appears in this collection.

bit.ly/KnittingWizardry-Book

Knitting Wizardry

By Amy Clarke MooreInterweave/F+W 2015

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http://bit.ly/KnittingWizardry-Book

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Caen Cowl Deborah Helmke This long, looped cowl is the perfect brioche project for beginners. Worked from end to end in the most basic of brioche stitches, this squishy cowl is seamed and has fringe added for a chic, cozy accessory. Yarn Malabrigo Chunky Pattern page 70

shop.knittingdaily.com

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Fall15 Knitscene 17

Tackle a new technique, or expand your existing skills, with these

brioche knitting projects.

BriocheBUILDING BLOCKS

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Bayeux Cowl Jennifer Mattesky Practice working brioche in the round with this easy cowl. An off-set stitch pattern creates a brickwork effect. Yarn Sincere Sheep Shepherdess Worsted Pattern page 71

Y A R N

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Tourlaville ShawlZsuzsa Kiss

A touch of brioche at the very edges of this top-down triangular shawl adds a bit of

interest. A long color-repeat yarn, worked using two balls in a striping sequence,

creates a striking coloring effect. Yarn Schoppel-Wolle Zauberball,

distributed by Skacel Pattern page 65

A perennial favorite since its introduction, Schoppel-Wolle Zauberball features a super-long color repeat, creating wide stripes in plain socks and dynamic color changes when worked in a project like this shawl. Use two balls of the same color or mix and match coordinating colors for a more dramatic effect.

about this

Y A R N


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Orne CardiganMeiju K-PBeginning at the top and worked down, this cardigan features a wide brioche collar that carries down the open fronts. By com-bining a provisional cast-on and picked-up sleeves, Meiju keeps the knitting entirely seamless. Yarn Madelinetosh Tosh Sport Pattern page 64

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Bessin ScarfSharon FullerTake your brioche knitting up a notch with two-color brioche rib. Small striped circles add knitting interest to this scarf, worked in a squishy worsted-weight yarn. Yarn Sweet Georgia Superwash Worsted Pattern page 66

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Argentan PulloverLeah McGloneThe hems for this pullover are worked � at separately, then joined, and the body is worked in the round to the underarm. The front and back are then worked separately to the shoulders. The sleeves are picked up around the armholes and worked in the round from the top down. Yarn The Fibre Company Organik, distributed by Kelbourne Woolens Pattern page 68

The Fibre Company’s Organik is exactly the kind of yarn we expect from this line: luxurious and hard wearing, with subtle, beautiful variances in color.

about this

Y A R N

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Mercedes Tarasovich-Clark

Brioche

To begin to work in brioche, and fully fall in love with the possibilities of the stitch, you’ll fi rst need to learn a few basics. Once you understand the basic stitch structure, you can then learn how to choose yarns and needles that help you fi ne-tune your brioche projects, work cast-on and bind-off methods that pair well with brioche, and shape brioche with increases and decreases.

Mercedes has done incredible work designing with brioche stitch over the last few years.

Her book Brioche Chic included the most perfect and precise explanation of what you need

to know to knit brioche. So we borrowed a bit of information to help you master this stitch.

For more information and beautiful projects, grab a copy of Brioche Chic!

Chevron Deep-V PulloverPhotos by Joe Hancock

book excerpt >>>>>>>>>>

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>>>>>>>>>> book excerpt

The Structure of BriocheTo create brioche’s unique structure, we rely on an alternating pattern of slipped and knit (or purled) stitches. Each row or round is worked in two passes, which equal one completed row or round. As alternate stitches are worked, they’re not merely slipped but slipped while a companion yarnover is simulta-neously worked. This stitch, the sl1yo, is what creates brioche knitting’s “enmeshed” struc-ture. Once you have sl1yo stitches in place, these stitch/yarnover pairings are either knit or purled in the brioche method, as a brk (brioche knit) or brp (brioche purl).

SL1YO (SLIP ONE, YARNOVER)This is a stitch combination that creates a stitch/yarnover pairing, which counts as a sin-gle stitch. Following a knit or brk (brioche knit) stitch, bring yarn to front between needle tips, slip next stitch purlwise and simultaneously bring yarn over needle to back of work (fig. 1). Following a purl or brp (brioche purl) stitch, with yarn in front, slip next stitch purlwise and simultaneously bring yarn over needle to back of work.

BRK (BRIOCHE KNIT)This is the brioche version of a basic knit stitch, and it is as easily worked as a k2tog. With yarn at the back of work (fig. 2), insert right needle tip into both a stitch and its com-panion yarnover knitwise. Work together as one knit stitch (fig. 3).

BRP (BRIOCHE PURL)This is the brioche version of a basic purl stitch, and it is as easily worked as a p2tog. With yarn at the front of work (fig. 4), insert right needle tip into both a stitch and its com-panion yarnover purlwise. Work together as one purl stitch (fig. 5).

These three basic stitches make up the major-ity of all brioche stitch structures. From this point, as in traditional knitting, the options to expand upon the basics are diverse and limited only by your imagination!

1

2

4

3

5

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Choosing Yarns and NeedlesIn spite of brioche knitting’s unusual structure, most yarns are open as options. Depending on your desired result, there are some things to take into consideration when choosing yarn and needles for your brioche projects.

GAUGEBrioche knitting creates a naturally loose, “fluffy” stitch. When worked on needles in the size suggested on any given yarn’s label, the resulting stitches are often much too loose, especially for any garment requiring structure to fit well. I recommend knitting brioche on needles two or three sizes smaller than you normally might for a yarn’s suggested gauge. For example, if I were using a worsted-weight wool that had a recommended needle size of U.S. 8 (5 mm) on the label, I would use a U.S. 5 or U.S. 6 needle (3.75 or 4 mm) to knit that yarn in brioche.

For sweaters and other garments that rely on a proper fit, the appropriate needle and yarn choice can make or break your garment. Brioche knit at too loose of a gauge may not hold its shape and can grow in size over time. This may not be a concern with smaller acces-sory patterns that don’t rely on fit, but it could spell disaster for a larger sweater project. Swatch generously when checking your gauge against the pattern to be sure of a good match for your project.

The samples shown are all knit with a worsted-weight yarn on U.S. sizes 3 (top), 6 (middle), and 9 (bottom), respectively (3.25, 4, and 13 mm). While the brioche structure remains obvious on all of the swatches, the middle swatch, knit on U.S. 6 needles (4 mm), would be the best choice for any garment needing to hold its shape and gauge.

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Brioche, especially brioche rib, is a thicker fabric than traditional stockinette stitch. With thicker fabrics, a little extra ease is usually more flattering than a skin-tight fit. Because of this, getting proper gauge and creating a fabric that holds its shape is part of the larger picture to create a successful, love-to-wear-it project.

For accessories such as cowls and scarves, gauge is not as crucial as for fitted garments or accessories such as hats or mittens. For these more relaxed accessory projects, you can experiment a bit with gauge to create looser, waffle-weave-type textures and draped fab-rics. Try a simple brioche rib in a potentially crisp yarn, such as linen or cotton, on larger needles, and its whole personality can change.

When measuring gauge in brioche stitch, disregard the two-pass row or round con-struction of the stitch pattern. Simply look at the visible stitches and rows. Brioche can occasionally bias, developing a slant to the left or right, depending on your yarn choice and knitting style. So knitting a generous swatch and blocking it before measuring will help to get the most accurate gauge measurement possible before beginning your project. Note that the gauges given in the project instruc-tions are after blocking.

YARNWith no hesitation, I will say that my preferred yarn for brioche knitting would be a wool or wool blend. It’s pretty hard to beat the springi-ness, softness, and texture of a natural wool yarn. That being said, I have worked brioche successfully with bamboo, acrylic, alpaca, cot-ton, linen blends, and many other fibers.

When substituting yarns, always try a gener-ous swatch in the pattern stitch to see if your substitute yarn will behave in a similar way to the suggested yarn. This is important not only in brioche but most garment projects. A project that takes advantage of a bouncy wool yarn won’t look the same when knit in a sleek, drapey silk.

When working two-color brioche, smooth yarns in high contrast colors are usually the best option to show off your brioche stitches. More subtle color effects can be achieved by pairing two similar shades. You can also experiment with combining yarns of different gauges or textures to create unusual effects.

Brioche knitting can use up to twice the yardage as regular knit fabric due to its thick texture. When planning your own projects or making modifications, such as adding length for sleeves and bodies, err on the side of having too much yardage on hand. Gauge can also affect your total yardage used, so tighter knitters may want to grab an extra skein or two when planning projects.

Basic Brioche Scarf

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Knitting BriocheNow that you know how to begin and end, we can get to the fun part: kni� ing brioche. Try it out on a swatch or the Caen Cowl pa� ern to begin kni� ing fl at brioche rib.

Remember, one row of brioche rib is worked in two passes, so where pa� erns indicate Row a and Row b, those two working rows result in one completed row of brioche knit.

See page 24 for instructions on working the sl1yo, brk, and brp stitches.

ONE-COLOR�BRIOCHE�RIB��WORKED�FLAT�IN�ROWS�ON�EVEN�NUMBER�OF�STITCHES�(multiple of 2, plus 1 st garter selvedge at each edge)

-�﹕ K1, *k1, sl1yo; rep from * to last st, k1.

�﹕ K1, *brk1, sl1yo; rep from * to last st, k1.

Rep Pa� ern row for brioche rib.

When worked on an even number of stitches, fl at brioche rib is created using one pa� ern row that is identical on both right- and wrong-side rows. A single garter-stitch selvedge is added as a solid “anchor” stitch at the edge to make it easier to work the sl1yo stitches at the end of each row.

ONE-COLOR�BRIOCHE�RIB��WORKED�IN�ROUNDS�(multiple of 2 sts)

-��﹕ *K1, sl1yo; rep from * to end.

-��﹕ Bring yarn forward under right needle tip, *sl1yo, brp1; rep from * to end.

��﹕ *Brk1, sl1yo; rep from * to end.

��﹕ Bring yarn forward under right needle tip (fi g. 1), insert RH needle tip into fi rst st of rnd and slip this st while bringing yarn to back of work, brp1, *sl1yo, brp1; rep from * to end.

Rep Rnds 1a and 1b for pa� ern.

Working circular brioche rib is similar to fl at knit brioche rib, but two working rounds, with right side of the work always facing, make up one complete round, rather than pairing right- and wrong-side working rows while working fl at. While working brioche in the round, the brioche purl stitch, or brp, is introduced into the work, to create the purl columns.

To keep track of the beginning of each round, use a locking stitch marker or coilless safety pin to mark the fi rst stitch of the round, mov-ing it up every few rounds as you knit (fi g. 1).

Basic brioche rib

1

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Cormac Sweater Leah ThibaultBy combining a mostly alpaca yarn with an open-work stitch, Leah created a sweater that’s perfect for layering—just warm enough for chilly autumn days, but still light enough for the denouement of summer. Yarn Shibui Knits Maai Pattern page 72

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O’Connor CowlHarry WellsA unique blend of cotton and ramie, a � ber similar to linen, is knit into a light-weight cowl in a dramatic color. This cowl builds from a provisional cast-on into a woven block stitch before being grafted in K1, P1 rib for a seamless in� nity scarf. Yarn S. Charles Collezione Enya, distributed by Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc. Pattern page 73

YARNYARYARY Na G� d

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Faulkner Hat Angela Hahn The wide cabled brim of this hat is knit first and grafted in the cable pattern. Stitches are then picked up to work the crown. Yarn Rowan Lima, distrib-uted by Westminster Fibers Pattern page 73

The knitted chain construc-tion provides stability in Rowan Lima, a yarn made pri-marily of alpaca, with merino and nylon added for strength. All three fibers take dye just a little bit differently, creating a subtly variegated yarn that knits into a tweed-like fabric.

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Caldwell PulloverCourtney SpainhowerThis cozy pullover uses simple garter stitch, stockinette stitch, and eyelets in a novel design for eye-catching results. This sweater, knit seamlessly in the round from the top down, is sure to become a staple of your fall wardrobe. Yarn Cascade Yarns Cloud Pattern page 75

Cascade Yarns Cloud is a delightful blend of merino and alpaca yarn, worked up into a chainette construction. The knitted fabric is characteristic of wool yarn—sturdy, with excellent stitch de� nition—when worked on the recom-mended needle size.

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Williams ClocheSarah SolomonA small Möbius loop forms the brim of this cloche before stitches are picked up to work the crown. This chic hat can be worn turban-style, with the twist in the front or to the side as a classic cloche. Yarn Juniper Moon Farm Moonshine, distributed by Knitting Fever Pattern page 76

YARNYARYARY Na G� d

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Finished Size Ankle circumference: 7 (7½ , 8¼ , 8¾ )" (18 [19, 21, 22] cm). Foot circumference: 7 (7½ , 8, 8¼ )" (18 [19, 20.5, 21] cm).Leg length: Adjustable to fit. Foot length: Adjustable to fit; finished length should be about ½ " (1.3 cm) shorter than actual foot length. Sock shown measures 7" (18 cm) foot circumference. Yarn CYCA #1, Super Fine Shown here: Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock (80% superwash wool, 20% nylon; 430 yd [393 m]/100 g): Cedar (MC) and Natural (CC), 1 skein each. Needles Size U.S. 1.5 (2.5 mm): set of 4 double-pointed (dpn), two circular (cir) or one long cir, as you prefer. Notions Marker (m); tapestry needle.Gauge 38 sts and 60 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in slipped st patt worked in rnds; 32 sts and 49 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in St st worked in rnds.

Note• This pattern works for any sock yarn that

specifies a gauge of 30 to 32 stitches in 4" (10 cm).

• The following instructions are based on the Basic Patterns worked at a gauge of 8 stitches per inch (2.5 cm), with finished sizes of 7 (7½ , 8, 8¼ )" (18 [19, 20.5, 21] cm).

Kate’s new book, Custom Socks, is so full of amazing patterns and sock-� tting information that this pattern didn’t � t! We’re sharing it as an exclusive pattern, only for Knitscene readers.

The pattern begins with 2 rounds of the main color in which the last stitch of every 6-stitch repeat is slipped. The following 2 rounds are worked in the contrasting color with the third stitch of each repeat slipped. The result is a faux-plaid effect that includes single-stitch columns of each color against 2-row stripes. The elongated slipped stitches add an interesting bit of texture.

The number of cast-on stitches is based on the stockinette gauge, but adjusted to a multiple of 3 to accommodate the k2, p1 ribbing in the cuff. Increases are worked at the end of the cuff to accommodate the slightly tighter gauge of the slipped-stitch pattern. Because the ratio of slipped stitches in this pattern is relative small—just 1 in 6—I use the standard ease adjustment number of 0.9. To accommodate the different gauges in the instep and sole, the two are worked on different numbers of stitches.

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Prewitt SocksKate Atherley

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Rep Rows 3 and 4 until a total of 24 (26, 26, 28) rows have been worked.

Turn HeelWork short-rows as foll.Row 1: (RS) K19 (19, 22, 23), ssk, turn work.Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, p9 (9, 11, 11), p2tog, turn

work.Row 3: Sl 1, k9 (9, 11, 11), ssk (1 st each side

of gap), turn work.Row 4: Sl 1, p9 (9, 11, 11), p2tog (1 st each side

of gap), turn work.Rep Rows 3 and 4 until all sts have been worked, ending with a WS row—11 (11, 13, 13) sts rem. Cut MC.

GussetJoin CC at start of instep. With CC, work Rnd 1 of Instep chart across 37 (43, 43, 43) instep sts. With a new needle, pick up and knit 14 (15, 15, 16) sts along selvedge edge at side of heel, using slipped sts as a guide, k11 (11, 13, 13) heel sts, then pick up and knit 14 (15, 15, 16) sts along selvedge edge at other side of heel, using slipped sts as a guide—76 (84, 86, 88) sts total; 37 (43, 43, 43) instep sts, 39 (41, 43, 45) sole sts. Note: Rnd begs at start of instep. If using dpns, divide the sole sts at the midpoint of the heel.From here on, the 37 (43, 43, 43) instep sts will be worked in the slipped-st patt; the gusset and sole sts will be worked in St st with the appropriate color.Set-up rnd: Work instep sts in patt as set,

CuffWith MC CO 57 (60, 66, 72) sts. Distribute sts across needles as you prefer and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts. Work in k2, p1 ribbing until piece measures 2" (5 cm) from CO.

LegWork for your size as foll.SIZE S ONLYInc rnd: [K6, M1, k7, M1, k6, M1] 3 times—66 sts.SIZE M ONLYInc rnd: *K5, M1; rep from *—72 sts.SIZE L ONLYInc rnd: [K5, M1, k6, M1] 6 times—78 sts.SIZE XL ONLYInc rnd: [K6, M1] 12 times—84 sts.ALL SIZESJoin CC and work Leg chart until piece measures 7 (8, 8, 8)" (18 [20.5, 20.5, 20.5] cm) from CO, or desired length to top of heel, ending with Row 4 of chart. Cut CC.

Heel FlapThe heel flap is worked in MC back and forth on St st over 29 (29, 35, 41) sts, aligned so that the instep begins and ends with a vertical stripe of MC.Row 1: (RS) K29 (29, 35, 41), turn work.Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, p28 (28, 34, 40).Row 3: Sl 1, k28 (28, 34, 40).Row 4: Sl 1, p28 (28, 34, 40).

k14 (15, 15, 16) through back loop (tbl), k11 (11, 13, 13), k14 (15, 15, 16) tbl.Dec rnd: Work instep sts in patt as set, ssk, knit to last 2 sts of rnd, k2tog—2 sts dec’d.Next rnd: Work instep sts in patt as set, knit to end of rnd. Rep the last 2 rnds 5 (7, 7, 7) more times—64 (68, 70, 72) sts rem.

FootWork even in patt as set until foot mea-sures 1¾ (1¾, 1¾, 2)" (4.5 [4.5, 4.5, 5] cm) less than desired finished length, ending with Row 4 of slip-st patt. Cut CC.

ToeRearrange the sts if necessary so that there are 32 (34, 35, 36) sts each for the sole and instep. Work the toe in St st with MC as foll. Dec Rnd: Knit to 3 sts before start of instep, k2tog, k2, ssk; knit to 3 sts before end of instep, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to end of rnd—4 sts dec’d.Knit 1 rnd even. Rep the last 2 rnds 6 (7, 7, 7) more times—36 (36, 38, 40) sts rem. Rep dec rnd every rnd 7 (7, 7, 8) times—8 (8, 10, 8) sts rem. Cut yarn, leaving an 8" (20.5 cm) tail. Thread tail on a tapestry needle, draw through rem sts, pull tight to close hole, and secure on WS.

FinishingBlock. Weave in loose ends. ❤

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As a twenty-something woman just diving into this new world of crafting, I spent a lot of time and money gathering up various knitting resources, and Knitscene was one of them. Like many of our readers, I was drawn to the combination of stylish, approachable projects, never dreaming that one day I would inherit the incred-ible work that former editor Lisa Shroyer had built over most of the magazine’s life.

Just as any publication evolves over its lifetime, Knitscene has seen changes in the last ten years. We’ve had only a handful of editors, all of whom left their own stamps on the pages and the projects of the magazine. We keep experimenting with features, departments, and kinds of articles, trying to � nd the perfect balance. As the publishing world evolves, we evolve with it, trying to bridge the ever-widening gap between digital media and traditional print. There’s no telling what the next ten years hold, but we hope you’ll be with us for the ride, growing, experimenting, and evolving together.

SOME THINGS YOU MAY NOT KNOW ABOUT KNITSCENE

TOTAL NUMBER OF ISSUES: In ten years, we’ve pub-lished thirty-three issues of Knitscene.PAST EDITORS: Pam Allen (Fall 2005), Clara Parkes (Fall 2006), Lisa Shroyer (Fall 2007–Summer 2013).THREE WOMEN HAVE WORKED ON EVERY SINGLE ISSUE OF KNITSCENE TO THIS POINT: Kit Kinseth, art director; Annie Hartman Bakken, marketing manager, eCommerce; and Karen Frisa, technical editor.

Ten Years of KnitsceneAmy Palmer

Amy Palmer

®

TEN YEARSOF

My knitting career is just a bit younger than Knitscene—I started knitting almost nine years ago, in the fall of 2006. My friend Betsy had taken up the needles, and I asked her to teach me. My grandmother had tried to teach me nearly twenty years earlier, but as with many young knitters, the skills didn’t quite stick then. But when Betsy helped me pick out an inex-pensive pair of needles and yarn, then sat down with me to go over the now all-too familiar motions of knitting, something inside clicked, and I became a knitting addict.

FIRST DESIGNER COLLECTION: Knitscene Winter 2008/Spring 2009 was the � rst issue with our designer collection. Designer Cathy Carron created four garments to accompany her pro� le, including the Carnation Tee.

Carnation Tee by Cathy Carron Knitscene Winter 2008/Spring 2009Photo by Amanda Stevenson Lupke

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MOST POPULAR SWEATER PATTERN: Heather Lodinsky’s Central Park Hoodie from our Fall 2006 issue has more than 5,000 projects entered on Ravelry! This open-front cardigan with simple cables is a great ward-robe staple. The original pattern was edited to include a wider range of sizing for The Best of Knitscene (Interweave, 2011).

Central Park Hoodie by Heather Lodinsky Knitscene Fall 2006Photo by Ken Frantz

IN THE EARLY YEARS, Knitscene published a couple of crochet patterns in every issue. Elissa Sugishita’s Herringbone Skirt from Fall 2007 is one of our most popular crochet projects.

Herringbone Skirt by Elissa Sugishita Knitscene Fall 2007Photo by Joe Hancock

Dauphine Cardigan by Julia Farwell-Clay Knitscene Fall 2014Photo by Harper Point Photography

MOST POPULAR ACCESSORY PATTERN: Far and away, the Lucy Hat from Carina Spencer from Winter 2012 is our most popular accessory pattern. This vintage-style cloche with a contrast color hatband comes in two sizes and has been knit in an endless array of color combinations.

THE FIRST ISSUE OF KNITSCENE WAS PHOTOGRAPHED partly in designer Julia Farwell-Clay’s gorgeous house. You can see bits of her beautiful wallpaper and gardens throughout the issue (along with then-editor Pam’s daughter Caitlin as a model)! Since then, Julia has designed many pieces for Knitscene, including her designer collection in Fall 2014.

Lucy Hat by Carina Spencer Knitscene Winter 2012

Photo by Harper Point Photography

Tweedy Vest

by Mona Schmidt

Knitscene Fall 2005

Photo by Carol Kaplan

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DIGITAL COLLECTION

With the Knitscene Premium Digital Collection get every issue of Knitscene from our beginnings in 2005 through Accessories 2014.

This collection includes stylish projects, smart tutorials, and closer looks at yarns, designers, books, and more. You will expand your knitting knowledge while learning about new stitches, bold colors, and interest-ing textures. There are projects for novices as well as seasoned knitters, ranging from small accessories like hats and scarves, to larger under-takings like socks and shawls and sweaters. It’s rare to fi nd so complete an anthology of so many experienced voices, which makes this an incredibly special compilation for knitters of all ages and skill levels!

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StyleSix designs inspired by a few of our

favorite fashion icons

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Maduri SweaterChe LamA straightforward silhouette paired with extended ribbing makes for a stylish and comfortable sweater. The body and sleeves are knit in the round in an all-over textured stitch pat-tern before being seamed in � nishing. Yarn Plymouth Yarn DK Merino Superwash Pattern page 78

Superwash yarns are great for a variety of knitting projects, but Plymouth Yarn’s DK Merino Superwash is excellent for sweaters. It knits up quickly, comes in a variety of colors, and can easily be thrown in the washing machine when needed.

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StyleHyannis Port PulloverCecily Glowik MacDonaldInspired by the iconic turtleneck sweaters worn by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, this � tted pullover is worked in the round from the top down. A simple cable panel adds visual interest to this sweater. Yarn Quince and Co. Lark Pattern page 79

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Couturier JacketNadya StallingsA classic jacket shape is updated with a slightly slouchy � t and subtle slub texture. Knit � at and seamed, this jacket is � nished with an elegant I-cord bind-off and back button tab. Yarn Universal Yarn Deluxe Worsted Superwash Pattern page 80

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Style

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Oddity ScarfAnnie WattsIndulge your inner rock star with this eye-catching scarf. Knit from the top down with just a little bit of intarsia at the edge, this scarf is long enough to wrap snugly around your neck or to drape casually from your shoulders. Yarn Brown Sheep Company Nature Spun Fingering Pattern page 84

When worked at a slightly larger than recommended needle size, as in this scarf pattern, Brown Sheep Company’s Nature Spun Fingering creates a light, lofty fabric that can easily catch the breeze while still keeping the wearer warm.

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StyleBrigitte HeadbandAvril LangInspired by the broad headbands worn by French movie star Brigitte Bardot, Avril created this headband using two colors of a lightweight wool yarn. Simple garter stitch is worked into an exaggerated chevron shape. The strip of fabric is sewn together at the end. Yarn Classic Elite Yarns Liberty Wool Light Pattern page 86

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Virginie PulloverMichele WangThis oversized lightweight sweater pairs perfectly with slim-� tting pants for a retro vibe. A yarn with a beautiful blend of drape and structure is the perfect choice for this layering piece, no matter the weather. Yarn Alchemy Kosmos Pattern page 88

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Style

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Designer

Swa n s I s la nd O rga n ic Wa sha ble DK

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❤✿✿❤ ❤✿

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Canted PulloverMari Chiba

p age 12

Sizes 29½ (32¼ , 35½ , 38¼ , 41, 43¾ , 47, 49¾ )" bust circumference; shown in size 35½ ", modeled with 3½ " of positive easeYarn Swans Island Organic Washable DK (100% superwash merino wool; 140 yd [128 m]/50 g):• #EWS205 malbec, 7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12,

13) skeinsGauge 23 sts and 34 rnds = 4" in St stTools• Size 5 (3.75 mm): 24" circular (cir) needle

and set of double-pointed needles (dpn)• Markers (m)• Stitch holders• Waste yarn for provisional CO• Tapestry needle


NotesThe lower front and back pieces of this

sweater begin with a provisional cast-on and are worked from side to side, then the two pieces are joined with a three-needle bind-off. Stitches are picked up along the top edge and the upper body is worked in one piece in the round. The front and back are separated at the underarm and worked flat. The shoulders are finished with a three-needle bind-off. Stitches are

picked up around the armholes and sleeve caps are worked using short-rows, then the sleeves are worked in the round to the cuff.

The pattern on the two lower body pieces is k1tbl, p3 rib. When increasing in pattern, read the pattern from the slipped-stitch edge (end of right-side rows on front, beginning of right-side rows on back), not from the single stockinette stitch edge.

Slip stitches purlwise.

Lower FrontWith cir needle and using a provisional method, CO 36 (36, 36, 36, 38, 38, 40, 40) sts. Do not join.Row 1 (RS) K1, k1tbl, p3 (3, 3, 3, 1, 1, 3, 3), place

marker (pm), *k1tbl, p3; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Row 2 (WS) Sl 3 wyb (see Notes), *k3, p1tbl; rep from * to m, k3 (3, 3, 3, 1, 1, 3, 3), p1tbl, p1.

Rep last 2 rows 1 (3, 1, 3, 1, 2, 3, 4) more time(s). Inc row (RS) K1, k1tbl, M1L (M1L, M1L, M1L, M1P, M1P, M1L, M1L), p3 (3, 3, 3, 1, 1, 3, 3), *k1tbl, p3; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3—37 (37, 37, 37, 39, 39, 41, 41) sts.Short-row 1 (WS) Sl 3 wyb, [k3, p1tbl] 5 (5, 5,

5, 6, 6, 6, 6) times, k2, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 2 (RS) P2, *k1tbl, p3; rep from * to

last 3 sts, p3.Next row Sl 3 wyb, *k3, p1tbl; rep from * to m, working wrap tog with wrapped st, work in patt to last 2 sts, p1tbl, p1. **Next row (RS) K1, k1tbl, work in patt to m, *k1tbl, p3; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3. Next row Sl 3 wyb, *k3, p1tbl; rep from * to m, work in patt to last 2 sts, p1tbl, p1. Rep last 2 rows 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) more time(s). Inc row (RS) K1, k1tbl, inc 1 st in patt (see Notes), work

in patt to m, *k1tbl, p3; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3—1 st inc’d.Short-row 1 (WS) Sl 3 wyb, [k3, p1tbl] 5 (5, 5,

5, 6, 6, 6, 6) times, k2, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 2 (RS) P2, *k1tbl, p3; rep from * to

last 3 sts, p3.Next row Sl 3 wyb, *k3, p1tbl; rep from * to m, working wrap tog with wrapped st, work in patt to last 2 sts, p1tbl, p1. Rep from ** 16 (17, 18, 14, 17, 18, 19, 4) more times—54 (55, 56, 52, 57, 58, 61, 46) sts.Sizes 35½ (38¼ , 49¾ )" only:**Next row (RS) K1, k1tbl, work in patt to m, *k1tbl, p3; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3. Next row Sl 3 wyb, *k3, p1tbl; rep from * to m, work in patt to last 2 sts, p1tbl, p1. Rep last 2 rows 2 (2, 3) more times. Inc row (RS) K1, k1tbl, inc 1 st in patt, work in patt to m, *k1tbl, p3; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3—1 st inc’d.Short-row 1 (WS) Sl 3 wyb, [k3, p1tbl] 5 (5, 6)

times, k2, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 2 (RS) P2, *k1tbl, p3; rep from * to

last 3 sts, p3.Next row Sl 3 wyb, *k3, p1tbl; rep from * to m, working wrap tog with wrapped st, work in patt to last 2 sts, p1tbl, p1. Rep from ** 0 (4, 12) more times—57 (57, 59) sts.All sizes:Place sts on holder.

Lower BackWith cir needle and using a provisional method, CO 36 (36, 36, 36, 38, 38, 40, 40) sts. Do not join.Row 1 (RS) Sl 3 wyf, [p3, k1tbl] 7 (7, 7, 7, 8, 8,

8, 8) times, pm, p3 (3, 3, 3, 1, 1, 3, 3), k1tbl, k1.

Row 2 (WS) P1, p1tbl, k3 (3, 3, 3, 1, 1, 3, 3), sl m, *p1tbl, k3; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

34 (36¾ , 40, 42¾ , 44¼ , 47, 50, 51¾ )"

6¼ (6¼ , 6¼ , 6¼ , 6½ , 6½ , 7, 7)"

29½ (32¼ , 35½ , 38¼ , 41, 43¾ , 47, 49¾ )"

9½

(9¾

, 10,

10,

10,

10¼

, 1

0¾

, 10½

)"

5½

(5½

, 6, 6

, 6¼

, 6¼

, 6½

, 6½

)"

5¾

(6¼

, 6½

, 7, 7

¼ , 7

¾ , 8

, 8½

)"

½ (½ , ½ , ¾ , ¾ , 1, 1, 1¼ )"

2½ (2½ , 3, 3¼ , 3¾ , 4¼ , 4¾ , 5¼ )"

5¾ (6¾ , 7¼ , 7¼ , 7¼ , 8, 8¼ , 7¾ )"

12¼ (12¼ , 12½ , 12¾ , 13, 13¼ , 13½ , 13¾ )"

8¼

(9, 9

¾ , 1

1¼ ,

11½

, 1

2¼ ,

12½

, 1

3½ )

"

10¾ (11½ , 12¼ , 13½ , 14¼ , 15, 15¾ , 16¾ )"

body

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Fall15 Knitscene 57

Desi

gner

Rep last 2 rows 1 (3, 1, 3, 1, 2, 3, 4) more time(s).Short-row 1 (RS) Sl 3 wyf, [p3, k1tbl] 5 (5, 5,

5, 6, 6, 6, 6) times, p2, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 2 (WS) K2, *p1tbl, k3; rep from * to

last 3 sts, k3.Inc row (RS) Sl 3 wyf, *p3, k1tbl; rep from * to m, working wrap tog with wrapped st, p3 (3, 3, 3, 1, 1, 3, 3), M1R (M1R, M1R, M1R, M1P, M1P, M1R, M1R), k1tbl, k1—37 (37, 37, 37, 39, 39, 41, 41) sts. Next row P1, p1tbl, work in patt to m, *p1tbl, k3; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. **Next row (RS) Sl 3 wyf, *p3, k1tbl; rep from * to m, work in patt to last 2 sts, k1tbl, k1. Next row P1, p1tbl, work in patt to m, *p1tbl, k3; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. Rep last 2 rows 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) more time(s).Short-row 1 (RS) Sl 3 wyf, [p3, k1tbl] 5 (5, 5,

5, 6, 6, 6, 6) times, p2, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 2 (WS) K2, *p1tbl, k3; rep from * to

last 3 sts, k3.Inc row (RS) Sl 3 wyf, *p3, k1tbl; rep from * to m, working wrap tog with wrapped st, work in patt to last 2 sts, inc 1 st in patt, k1tbl, k1—1 st inc’d. Next row P1, p1tbl, work in patt to m, *p1tbl, k3; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. Rep from ** 16 (17, 18, 14, 17, 18, 19, 4) more times—54 (55, 56, 52, 57, 58, 61, 46) sts.Sizes 351/2 (381/4, 493/4)" only:**Next row (RS) Sl 3 wyf, *p3, k1tbl; rep from * to m, work in patt to last 2 sts, k1tbl, k1. Next row P1, p1tbl, work in patt to m, *p1tbl, k3; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. Rep last 2 rows 2 (2, 3) more times.Short-row 1 (RS) Sl 3 wyf, [p3, k1tbl] 5 (5, 6)

times, p2, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 2 (WS) K2, *p1tbl, k3; rep from * to

last 3 sts, k3.Inc row (RS) Sl 3 wyf, *p3, k1tbl; rep from * to m, working wrap tog with wrapped st, work in patt to last 2 sts, inc 1 st in patt, k1tbl, k1—1 st inc’d. Next row P1, p1tbl, work in patt to m, *p1tbl, k3; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. Rep from ** 0 (4, 12) more times—57 (57, 59) sts.All sizes:Join lower front and back: Return lower front sts from holder to needle. With RS tog, join lower front and back using three-needle BO. Remove provisional CO from lower front and back and place sts onto needles. With RS tog, join lower front and back using three-needle BO, making sure that piece is not twisted.

Upper BodyWith cir needle and RS facing, pick up and knit 85 (93, 102, 110, 118, 126, 135, 143) sts along front upper edge (beg of RS rows), pm, pick up and knit 85 (93, 102, 110, 118, 126, 135, 143) sts along back upper edge (end of RS rows)—170 (186, 204, 220, 236, 252, 270, 286) sts total. Pm and join in the

rnd. Work in St st until piece measures 51/2 (51/2, 6, 6, 61/4, 61/4, 61/2, 61/2)" from pick-up rnd. Divide for front and back: Next rnd *Knit to m, remove m, k4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8), place last 8 (8, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 16) sts on holder for underarm; rep from * once more—77 (85, 92, 100, 106, 114, 121, 127) sts rem for each of front and back. Place last 77 (85, 92, 100, 106, 114, 121, 127) sts on holder for back—77 (85, 92, 100, 106, 114, 121, 127) sts rem for front.

FrontShape armholes: Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—2 sts dec’d. Dec row (WS) P2, p2tog, purl to last 4 sts, ssp, p2—2 sts dec’d. Rep last 2 rows 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) more times, then work RS dec row 0 (1, 0, 0, 1, 0, 0, 1) more time—61 (67, 76, 80, 84, 94, 101, 105) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 11/2 (11/2, 13/4, 13/4, 2, 2, 21/4, 21/4)", ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) K24 (27, 30, 32, 33, 38, 40, 42), place next 13 (13, 16, 16, 18, 18, 21, 21) sts on holder for neck, place foll 24 (27, 30, 32, 33, 38, 40, 42) sts on holder for right front—24 (27, 30, 32, 33, 38, 40, 42) sts rem for left front. Left front: Next row (WS) Purl. Dec row (RS) Knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 9 (12, 12, 12, 11, 13, 12, 11) more times—14 (14, 17, 19, 21, 24, 27, 30) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 53/4 (61/4, 61/2, 7, 71/4, 73/4, 8, 81/2)", ending with a RS row. Shape shoulder using short-rows as foll:Short-row 1 (WS) Purl to last 5 sts, wrap

next st, turn.Short-row 2 (RS) Knit to end.Short-row 3 Purl to 5 sts before wrapped st,

wrap next st, turn.Short-row 4 Knit to end.Rep last 2 short-rows 0 (0, 0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3) more time(s). Next row (WS) Purl to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Place sts on holder. Right front: Return 24 (27, 30, 32, 33, 38, 40, 42) held right front sts to needle and, with RS facing, rejoin yarn. Knit 1 row. Purl 1 row. Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, knit to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 9 (12, 12, 12, 11, 13, 12, 11) more times—14 (14, 17, 19, 21, 24, 27, 30) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 53/4 (61/4, 61/2, 7, 71/4, 73/4, 8, 81/2)", ending with a WS row. Shape shoulder using short-rows as foll:Short-row 1 (RS) Knit to last 5 sts, wrap

next st, turn.Short-row 2 (WS) Purl to end.Short-row 3 Knit to 5 sts before wrapped st,

wrap next st, turn.Short-row 4 Purl to end.Rep last 2 short-rows 0 (0, 0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3) more time(s). Next row (RS) Knit to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Break yarn, leaving a 24" tail. Place sts on holder.

BackReturn 77 (85, 92, 100, 106, 114, 121, 127) held back sts to needle and, with RS facing, rejoin yarn. Shape armholes as for front—61 (67, 76, 80, 84, 94, 101, 105) sts rem. Work in St st until armhole measures 53/4 (61/4, 61/2, 7, 71/4, 73/4, 8, 81/2)", ending with a WS row. Shape shoulders using short-rows as foll:Short-row 1 (RS) Knit to last 5 sts, wrap

next st, turn.Short-row 2 (WS) Purl to last 5 sts, wrap

next st, turn.Short-row 3 Knit to 5 sts before wrapped st,

wrap next st, turn.Short-row 4 Purl to 5 sts before wrapped st,

wrap next st, turn.Rep last 2 short-rows 0 (0, 0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3) more time(s). Next row (RS) Knit to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Next row (WS) Purl to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Knit 1 row. Join shoulders: Return 14 (14, 17, 19, 21, 24, 27, 30) left front shoulder sts to needle. With RS tog, join left shoulder using three-needle BO. Rep for right shoulder, using tail to work BO—33 (39, 42, 42, 42, 46, 47, 45) sts rem for back neck. Place sts on holder.

SleevesReturn 8 (8, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 16) under-arm sts to 2 dpn. Next row Beg at center of underarm, k4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8), pm, pick up and knit 27 (29, 30, 34, 35, 37, 38, 40) sts along armhole to shoulder seam, then 27 (29, 30, 34, 35, 37, 38, 40) sts along armhole to sts on dpn, pm, k4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8), pm for beg of rnd—62 (66, 70, 78, 82, 86, 90, 96) sts. Shape cap using short-rows as foll:Short-row 1 (RS) K40 (44, 46, 52, 54, 58, 60,

64), wrap next st, turn.Short-row 2 (WS) P18 (22, 22, 26, 26, 30, 30,

32), wrap next st, turn.Short-row 3 Knit to wrapped st, knit wrap tog

with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 4 Purl to wrapped st, purl wrap tog

with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn.Rep last 2 short-rows 16 (16, 17, 19, 20, 20, 21, 22) more times—st before m is wrapped at each end. Next row (RS) Knit to m, working wrap tog with wrapped st, remove m, knit to end. Next rnd Knit to m, remove m, work wrap tog with wrapped st, knit to end. Work even until piece measures 41/2" from underarm. Dec rnd 1 Knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1—1 st dec’d. Dec rnd 2 K1, k2tog, knit to end—1 st dec’d. [Work 6 rnds even, then rep Dec rnds 1 and 2] 6 (6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8) times—48 (52, 56, 64, 66, 70, 72, 78) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 12 (12, 121/4, 121/2, 123/4, 13, 131/4, 131/2)" from underarm. Using the 3-st I-cord method, BO all sts.

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58 knitscene.com

Designer

F inishingNeck edging: With RS facing, k33 (39, 42, 42, 42, 46, 47, 45) held back neck sts, pick up and knit 30 (32, 33, 35, 36, 40, 40, 44) sts along left front neck edge, k13 (13, 16, 16, 18, 18, 21, 21) held front sts, pick up and knit 30 (32, 33, 35, 36, 40, 40, 44) sts along right front neck edge—106 (116, 124, 128, 132, 144, 148, 154) sts total. Using the 3-st I-cord method, BO all sts. Weave in ends. Block. ❤

A nzu la Ha i k u

❤✿✿❤

✿✿

✿

❤❤

❤✿✿❤ ❤✿

✿✿

✿

❤✿

✿ ❤

✿

Allotrope PulloverMari Chiba

p age 13

Sizes 29½ (33½ , 37½ , 41½ , 45, 49, 52½ , 56½ )"; shown in size 37½ ", modeled with 1½ " of positive easeYarn Anzula Haiku (70% superwash merino wool, 20% bamboo, 10% nylon; 425 yd [389 m]/100 g):• periwinkle, 4 (4, 4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8) skeinsGauge 30 sts and 40 rnds = 4" in St st; 34 sts and 40 rnds = 4" in charted pattTools• Size 2 (2.75 mm): 16" and 32" circular (cir)

needles and set of double-pointed needles (dpn)

• Markers (m)• Removable m• Stitch holders• Tapestry needle


NotesThe body of this pullover is worked in the round

in one piece to the underarms, then the upper front and back are worked separately back and forth. Stitches for the sleeves are picked up around the armhole and the sleeves are worked in the round from the top down with a short-row sleeve cap.

BodyWith cir needle, CO 242 (274, 306, 338, 370, 402, 430, 462) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib until piece measures 1¾ (1¾ , 1¾ , 2, 2½ , 2½ , 3, 3)" from CO. Next rnd K2 (2, 2, 2, 1, 1, 0, 0), work Diamond chart over 113 (129, 145, 161, 177, 193, 209, 225) sts, k2 (2, 2, 2, 1, 1, 0, 0), pm, k125 (141, 157, 173, 191, 207, 221, 237) for back. Cont in patt until piece measures 3½ (3½ , 4, 4½ , 4½ , 4, 5, 6)" from CO. Shape waist: Set-up rnd Work in patt to m, k28 (36, 45, 53, 63, 71, 77, 87), pm, ssk, k65 (65, 63, 63, 61, 61, 63, 59), k2tog, pm, knit to end—240 (272, 304, 336, 368, 400, 428, 460) sts rem: 117 (133, 149, 165, 179, 195, 209, 225) front sts, 123 (139, 155, 171, 189, 205, 219, 235) back sts. Work 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 2) rnds even. Dec rnd Work in patt to m, knit to m, ssk, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, knit to end—2 back sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every 3rd (3rd, 3rd, 3rd, 4th, 4th, 4th, 3rd) rnd 18 (18, 18, 18, 16, 16, 16, 16) more times—202 (234, 266, 298, 334, 366, 394, 426) sts rem: 117 (133, 149, 165, 179, 195, 209, 225) front sts, 85 (101, 117, 133, 155, 171, 185, 201) back sts. Work even until piece measures 10½ (10½ , 10¾ , 11, 12, 11½ , 12½ , 12½ )" from CO. Inc rnd Work in patt to m, knit to m, sl m, k1, M1L, knit to 1 st before m, M1R, k1, sl m,

knit to end—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every 3rd (3rd, 3rd, 3rd, 4th, 4th, 4th, 3rd) rnd 15 (15, 15, 15, 11, 11, 11, 11) more times—234 (266, 298, 330, 358, 390, 418, 450) sts: 117 (133, 149, 165, 179, 195, 209, 225) sts each for front and back. Work even until piece measures 16 (16, 16, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19)" from CO, ending with an even-numbered chart rnd. Divide for front and back: Next rnd Work in patt to m, k4 (4, 6, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11), place last 8 (8, 12, 16, 18, 18, 20, 22) sts on holder for underarm, knit to last 4 (4, 6, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11) sts, place next 8 (8, 12, 16, 18, 18, 20, 22) sts on holder for underarm—109 (125, 137, 149, 161, 177, 189, 203) sts each for front and back. Place front sts on holder.

BackPurl 1 WS row. Shape armholes: Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—107 (123, 135, 147, 159, 175, 187, 201) sts rem.Sizes 49 (52½ , 56½ )" only:Dec row (WS) P2, [p2tog] 2 times, purl to last 6 sts, [ssp] 2 times, p2—171 (183, 197) sts rem. Dec row (RS) K2, [ssk] 2 times, knit to last 6 sts, [k2tog] 2 times, k2—167 (179, 193) sts rem.All sizes:Dec row (WS) P2, p2tog, purl to last 4 sts, ssp, p2—2 sts dec’d. Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—2 sts dec’d. Rep last 2 rows 3 (4, 5, 7, 9, 11, 12, 13) more times—91 (103, 111, 115, 119, 119, 127, 137) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 6½ (7, 7½ , 8, 8½ , 9, 9½ , 10)", ending with a WS row. Shape shoulders using short-rows as foll:Short-row 1 (RS) Knit to last 6 sts, wrap

next st, turn.Short-row 2 (WS) Purl to last 6 sts, wrap

next st, turn.

30½ (34½ , 38½ , 42½ , 46½ , 50½ , 54, 58)"

25¼ (29¼ , 33¼ , 37¼ , 41¾ , 45¾ , 49¼ , 53¼ )"

29½ (33½ , 37½ , 41½ , 45, 49, 52½ , 56½ )"

16 (1

6, 1

6, 1

7, 1

8, 1

8, 1

9, 1

9)"

6½

(7, 7

½ , 8

, 8½

, 9, 9

½ , 1

0)"

¾ (¾ , ¾ , ¾ , ¾ , ¾ , 1, 1)"

3 (3¼ , 3½ , 3½ , 3½ , 3½ , 3¾ , 4¼ )"

6 (7, 7½ , 8¼ , 8¾ , 8¾ , 9¼ , 9¾ )"

10¾ (10¾ , 10¾ , 12, 12½ , 13½ , 14, 14)"

9 (1

0¼ ,

11,

12¼

, 1

3½ ,

14¾

, 1

6, 1

6½ )

"

11¼ (12½ , 13¼ , 15, 16¼ , 17¾ , 19, 19½ )"

body

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Fall15 Knitscene 59

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Short-row 3 Knit to 6 sts before wrapped st, wrap next st, turn.

Short-row 4 Purl to 6 sts before wrapped st, wrap next st, turn.

Rep last 2 short-rows 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2) more time(s). Next row (RS) Knit to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Next row (WS) Purl to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Place sts on holder.

FrontWith WS facing, rejoin yarn. Work 1 WS row in patt. Shape armholes: Note: For some sizes, neck shaping beg before armhole shaping ends; read the foll section all the way through before proceeding. Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, work in patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—107 (123, 135, 147, 159, 175, 187, 201) sts rem.Sizes 49 (52½ , 56½ )" only:Dec row (WS) P2, [p2tog] 2 times, work in

patt to last 6 sts, [ssp] 2 times, p2—171 (183, 197) sts rem. Dec row (RS) K2, [ssk] 2 times, work in patt to last 6 sts, [k2tog] 2 times, k2—167 (179, 193) sts rem.All sizes:Dec row (WS) P2, p2tog, work in patt to last 4 sts, ssp, p2—2 sts dec’d. Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, work in patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—2 sts dec’d. Rep last 2 rows 3 (4, 5, 7, 9, 11, 12, 13) more times. At the same time, when armhole measures 2 (1¾ , 1¾ , 2, 2, 2½ , 2½ , 2¾ )", ending with a RS row, divide for neck as foll: Mark center front st. Next row (WS) Work in patt to marked st, place marked st on holder for center front, place foll sts on holder for left front. Right front: Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, work in patt to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 21 (25, 27, 29, 31, 31, 33, 35) more times—23 (25, 27, 27, 27, 27, 29, 32) sts rem when all armhole and neck shaping is complete. Work even until armhole measures 6½ (7, 7½ , 8, 8½ , 9, 9½ , 10)", ending with a WS row. Shape shoulder using short-rows as foll:Short-row 1 (RS) Work in patt to last 6 sts,

wrap next st, turn.Short-row 2 (WS) Work in patt to end.Short-row 3 Work to 6 sts before wrapped st,

wrap next st, turn.Short-row 4 Work in patt to end.Rep last 2 short-rows 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2) more time(s). Next row (RS) Work in patt to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Place sts on holder. Left front: Return held left front sts to needle. With WS facing, rejoin yarn. Work 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) Work in patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 21 (25, 27, 29, 31, 31, 33, 35) more times—23 (25, 27, 27, 27, 27, 29, 32) sts rem when all armhole and neck shaping is complete. Work even until armhole measures 6½ (7, 7½ , 8, 8½ , 9, 9½ , 10)", ending with a RS row. Shape shoulder using short-rows as foll:Short-row 1 (WS) Work in patt to last 6 sts,

wrap next st, turn.Short-row 2 (RS) Work in patt to end.Short-row 3 Work in patt to 6 sts before

wrapped st, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 4 Work in patt to end.Rep last 2 short-rows 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2) more time(s). Next row (WS) Work in patt to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Join shoulders: With RS tog, join shoulders using three-needle BO—45 (53, 57, 61, 65, 65, 69, 73) sts rem on holder for back neck.

SleevesPlace 8 (8, 12, 16, 18, 18, 20, 22) under-arm sts onto dpn. Next rnd K1 (1, 3, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8), ssk, k1, pm for beg of rnd, k1, k2tog,

k on RS; p on WS

pattern repeat

division between right and left crosses

k2tog but do not drop sts from left needle, knit �rst st, drop both sts from left needle

knit 2nd st tbl but do not drop st from left needle, k2tog tbl and drop both sts from left needle

16 st repeat

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

Diamond

k1 (1, 3, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8), pick up and knit 79 (88, 90, 98, 105, 117, 124, 126) sts evenly spaced along armhole edge, knit to end—85 (94, 100, 112, 121, 133, 142, 146) sts. Shape cap using short-rows as foll:Short-row 1 (RS) K56 (62, 66, 74, 80, 88, 94,

98), wrap next st, turn.Short-row 2 (WS) P27 (30, 32, 36, 39, 43, 46,

50), wrap next st, turn.Short-row 3 Knit to wrapped st, work wrap

tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 4 Purl to wrapped st, work wrap

tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn.Rep last 2 short-rows 25 (28, 28, 30, 32, 36, 38, 38) more times—2 (2, 4, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8) sts after last wrapped st on each end. Next row (RS) Knit to end, working wrap tog with wrapped st. Knit 8 rnds, working rem

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wrap. Dec rnd K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every 10th rnd 8 (8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10) more times—67 (76, 82, 92, 101, 111, 120, 124) sts rem. Next rnd K2tog (k1, k1, k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1, k1), p1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end—66 (76, 82, 92, 100, 110, 120, 124) sts rem. Work in k1, p1 rib for 1¾ (1¾ , 1¾ , 2, 2½ , 2½ , 3, 3)". BO all sts kwise.

F inishingNeck edging: With 16" cir needle, k45 (53, 57, 61, 65, 65, 69, 73) back neck sts, pick up and knit 39 (45, 49, 51, 54, 54, 60, 62) sts along left front neck, k1 from holder, pick up and knit 39 (45, 49, 51, 54, 54, 60, 62) sts along right front neck—124 (144, 156, 164, 174, 174, 190, 198) sts total. Using the 3-st I-cord method, BO all sts. Weave in ends. Block to measurements. ❤

Sol i t ude Wool Rom ney Sem i-Wors t ed Spu n

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Solitude JacketMari Chiba

p ag e 14

Sizes 28½ (31, 34½ , 37, 40½ , 43, 45½ )"; shown in size 34½ ", modeled with 1½ " of negative easeYarn Solitude Wool Romney Semi-Worsted Spun (100% romney wool; 130 yd [119 m]/124 g):• undyed dark brown, 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11)

skeinsGauge 16 sts and 23 rows = 4" in St st

Tools• Size 8 (5 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle and

set of double-pointed needles (dpn)• Markers (m)• Stitch holders• Tapestry needle• Four 1¾ " toggle buttons


NotesThe body of this cardigan is worked back

and forth in one piece from the lower edge to the underarms. The sleeves are worked separately in the round, then the sleeves and body are joined to work the yoke.

A circular needle is used to accommodate the large number of stitches.

BodyWith cir needle, CO 116 (128, 140, 152, 164, 172, 196) sts. Do not join. Next row (RS) K3, *p2, k2; rep from * to last st, k1. Next row (WS) P3, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p1. Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 4 (4, 4, 4½ , 4½ , 4½ , 5)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Change to St st. Next row (RS) K24 (27, 29, 32, 34, 35, 44), place marker (pm), k9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15), pm, k50 (54, 60, 64, 70, 74, 78), pm, k9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15), pm, k24 (27, 29, 32, 34, 35, 44). Work 5 rows even. Shape waist: Dec row (RS) [Knit to 2 sts before m, ssk, sl m, knit to m, k2tog] 2 times, knit to end—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 8)th row 4 more times—96 (108, 120, 132, 144, 152, 176) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 10 (10, 10½ , 10½ , 11, 11, 11¾ )" from CO, ending with a WS row. Inc row (RS) [Knit to m, M1R, sl m, knit to m, sl m, M1L] 2 times, knit to end—4 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every 4th row 3 more

times—112 (124, 136, 148, 160, 168, 192) sts. Work even until piece measures 15 (15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 18)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Do not break yarn. Set aside.

SleevesWith dpn, CO 28 (28, 32, 32, 32, 36, 36) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in k2, p2 rib until piece measures 4 (4, 4, 4½ , 4½ , 4½ , 5)" from CO. Change to St st. Knit 1 rnd. Inc rnd K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, k1—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every 7 (7, 6, 5, 5, 5, 4)th rnd 7 (8, 8, 10, 11, 12, 15) more times—44 (46, 50, 54, 56, 62, 68) sts. Work even until piece measures 20 (20, 21, 21, 21½ , 21½ , 22)" from CO. Next rnd Knit to last 4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) sts, place next 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15) sts on holder for underarm—35 (36, 39, 42, 43, 48, 53) sts rem. Place sts on holder.

YokeJoining row (RS) With yarn attached to body, k23 (26, 28, 31, 33, 34, 43) front sts, remove m, place next 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15) sts on holder for underarm, remove m, k35 (36, 39, 42, 43, 48, 53) sleeve sts, k23 (25, 28, 30, 33, 35, 37), k2tog, k23 (25, 28, 30, 33, 35, 37), remove m, place next 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15) sts on holder for under-arm, remove m, k35 (36, 39, 42, 43, 48, 53) sleeve sts, k23 (26, 28, 31, 33, 34, 43) front sts—163 (175, 191, 207, 219, 235, 267) sts. Next row (WS) K5 (7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9), [p1, k7] 19 (20, 22, 24, 25, 27, 31) times, p1, k5 (7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9). Shape yoke:Row 1 (RS) K1, p1, p2tog, p1 (3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5),

k1, [p7, k1] 19 (20, 22, 24, 25, 27, 31) times, p1 (3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5), ssp, p1, k1—161 (173, 189, 205, 217, 233, 265) sts rem.

Row 2 and all WS rows Work even in patt.Row 3 (RS) K1, p1, p2tog, p0 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4),

k1, [p7, k1] 19 (20, 22, 24, 25, 27, 31) times,

14¾ (16, 17¾ , 19, 20¾ , 22, 23¼ )"

12¼ (13½ , 15¼ , 16½ , 18¼ , 19½ , 20¾ )"

14¼ (15½ , 17¼ , 18½ , 20¼ , 21½ , 22¾ )"

15 (1

5, 1

6, 1

6, 1

7, 1

7, 1

8)"

6 (6

, 6, 6

¾ , 7

¼ , 7

½ , 8

¼ )"

8 (6¼ , 6¾ , 7¼ , 8½ , 9, 10)"

20 (20, 21, 21, 21½ , 21½ , 22)"

7 (7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9)"

11 (11½ , 12½ , 13½ , 14, 15½ , 17)"

body

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p0 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4), ssp, p1, k1—159 (171, 187, 203, 215, 231, 263) sts rem.

Row 5 K1, p1, p2tog, p7 (1, 1, 1, 3, 3, 3), k1, [p7, k1] 17 (20, 22, 24, 25, 27, 31) times, p7 (1, 1, 1, 3, 3, 3), ssp, p1, k1—157 (169, 185, 201, 213, 229, 261) sts rem.





Row 15 K1, p1, p2tog, p2 (4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6), k1, [p6, k2tog] 17 (18, 20, 22, 23, 25, 29) times, p2 (4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6), ssp, p1, k1—130 (141, 155, 169, 180, 194, 222) sts rem.



Row 21 K1, p1, p2tog, p6 (1, 1, 1, 3, 3, 3), k1, [p5, k2tog] 15 (18, 20, 22, 23, 25, 29) times, p6 (1, 1, 1, 3, 3, 3), ssp, p1, k1—109 (117, 129, 141, 151, 163, 187) sts rem.


Work 1 (1, 1, 3, 3, 3, 5) row(s) even (knit the knits and purl the purls). Dec row K1, p7 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4), k1, [p4, k2tog] 15 (18, 20, 22, 23, 25, 29) times, p7 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4), k1—92 (97, 107, 117, 126, 136, 156) sts rem. Work 1 (1, 1, 3, 3, 3, 3) row(s) even. Dec row K1, p7 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4), k1, [p3, k2tog] 15 (18, 20, 22, 23, 25, 29) times, p7 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4), k1—77 (79, 87, 95, 103, 111, 127) sts rem. Work 1 (1, 1, 1, 3, 3, 3) row(s) even. Dec row K1, p7 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4), k1, [p2, k2tog] 15 (18, 20, 22, 23, 25, 29) times, p7 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4), k1—62 (61, 67, 73, 80, 86, 98) sts rem. Work 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 3, 3) row(s) even. Dec row K1, p7 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4), k1, [p1, k2tog] 15 (18, 20, 22, 23, 25, 29) times, p7 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4), k1—47 (43, 47, 51, 57, 61, 69) sts rem. Work 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 3) row(s) even. Dec row K1, p7 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4), k1, [k2tog] 15 (18, 20, 22, 23, 25, 29) times, p7 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4), k1—32 (25, 27, 29, 34, 36, 40) sts rem. Break yarn.

CollarNote: When picking up sts along right and left fronts, you may need to pick up more or fewer sts to prevent gaping or puckering; st count is not crucial in this section. With cir needle and RS facing, beg at right front lower edge, pick up and knit 90 (92, 96, 98, 103, 105, 112) sts along right front, pm, k32 (25, 27, 29, 34, 36, 40) back neck sts, pm, pick up and knit 90 (92, 96, 98, 103, 105, 112) sts along left front to lower edge—212 (209, 219, 225, 240, 246, 264) sts total. Knit 3 rows, ending with a WS row. Next row [Knit to m] 2 times, remove m, k30, pm, knit to end. Rep last row once more. Shape collar using short-rows as foll:Short-row 1 (RS) Knit to 1 st before m, wrap

next st, turn.Short-row 2 (WS) Knit to 1 st before m, wrap


wrap next st, turn.Rep last short-row 3 more times.Short-row 4 Knit to 3 sts before wrapped st,

wrap next st, turn.Rep last short-row 5 more times.Short-row 5 Knit to 1 st before wrapped st,

wrap next st, turn.Rep last short-row 5 more times. Next row (RS) Knit to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Next row (WS) Knit, working rem wraps. Knit 4 rows, ending with a WS row.Short-row 6 (RS) Knit to 1 st before m, wrap

next st, turn.Short-row 7 (WS) Knit to 1 st before m, wrap


wrap next st, turn.Rep last short-row 3 more times.Short-row 9 Knit to 2 sts before wrapped st,

wrap next st, turn.Rep last short-row 3 more times.Short-row 10 Knit to 1 st before wrapped st,

wrap next st, turn.Rep last short-row once more. Next row (RS) Knit to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Next row (WS) Knit, working rem wraps. With RS facing, BO all sts.

F inishingGraft underarm sts using Kitchener st. Button loops: (make 4) With dpn, CO 3 sts. Work I-cord for 5". BO all sts. Fold I-cord into a loop and sew to right front band 2½ " from lower edge, sewing edges tog so that 1¼ " of loop rem open. Sew 2nd I-cord in same manner 4" below beg of yoke. Sew rem I-cords evenly spaced between. Weave in ends. Block to mea-surements. Sew buttons to left front band opposite button loops. ❤

I nd igod ragon f ly Oct oBaa

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Pennant CardiMari Chiba

p age 15

Sizes 28½ (32, 35½ , 39½ , 43, 47, 50½ , 54)" bust circumference, buttoned; shown in size 35½ ", modeled with ½ " of negative easeYarn Indigodragonfly OctoBaa (100% super-wash merino wool; 270 yd [247 m]/100 g):• ooooo…shiny (gray; MC), 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8,

9, 9) skeins• sargasm (magenta; CC1), 1 skein• TARDIS (blue; CC2), 1 skein• what the hay?! (yellow; CC3), 1 skein• already frogged (green; CC4), 1 skeinGauge 26 sts and 34 rows = 4" in St stTools• Size 3 (3.25 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle

and set of double-pointed needles (dpn)• Markers (m)• Stitch holders• Tapestry needle• 9 (9, 11, 11, 10, 10, 12, 12) 5⁄8" buttons


NotesThe body of this cardigan is worked back

and forth in one piece from the lower edge to the underarms. The sleeves are worked separately in the round, then the sleeves and body are joined to work the yoke back

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and forth. The front bands are worked along with the body.

Slip stitches purlwise with yarn in front, except where indicated otherwise.


BodyWith MC and cir needle, CO 193 (217, 241, 265, 289, 313, 337, 361) sts. Do not join.Row 1 (RS) Sl 1 (see Notes), k4, *k1, p1; rep

from * to last 6 sts, k6.Row 2 (WS) Sl 1, k4, *p1, k1; rep from * to last

6 sts, p1, k5.Rep last 2 rows 3 more times. Note: Buttonholes cont to front neck; read the foll section all the way through before proceeding. Buttonhole row (RS) Sl 1, k2tog, using the backward-loop method, CO 2 sts, ssk, work in patt to last 5 sts, k5. Rep Buttonhole row every 16 (16, 14, 14, 16, 16, 14, 14)th row 8 (8, 10, 10, 9, 9, 11, 11) more times. At the same time, when piece measures 2 (2, 2½ , 2½ , 3, 3, 3½ , 3½ )" from CO, ending with a RS row, change to St st with 5-st garter st bands and work as foll: Next row (WS) Sl 1, k4, p37 (42, 47, 52, 57, 62, 67, 72), place marker (pm), p15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29), pm, p79 (89, 99, 109, 119, 129, 139, 149), pm, p15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29), pm, p37 (42, 47, 52, 57, 62, 67, 72), k5. Shape waist: Dec row (RS) Sl 1, *knit to 2 sts before m, ssk, sl m, knit to m, k2tog; rep from * once more, knit to end—4 sts dec’d. Cont in patt, rep Dec row every 8th row 6 more times—165 (189, 213, 237, 261, 285, 309, 333) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 10½ (10½ , 11, 11, 12, 11½ , 12½ , 12½ )" from CO, ending with a WS row. Inc row (RS) Sl 1, *knit to m, M1R, sl m, knit to m, sl m, M1L; rep from * once more, knit to end—4 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every 6th row 5 more times—189 (213, 237, 261, 285, 309, 333, 357) sts. Work even until piece measures 15 (15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 18, 18)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Do not break yarn. Set aside.

SleevesWith MC and dpn, CO 42 (42, 48, 48, 54, 54, 58, 58) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib until piece measures 2 (2, 2½ , 2½ , 3, 3, 3, 3)" from CO. Change to St st. Inc rnd K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, k1—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every 8 (8, 7, 6, 6, 5, 5, 5)th rnd 10 (13, 13, 17, 17, 22, 23, 26) more times—64 (70, 76, 84, 90, 100, 106, 112) sts. Work even until piece measures 18½ (18½ , 19¼ , 19¼ , 20, 20, 20¾ , 20¾ )" from CO. Next rnd Knit to last 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts, place next 15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29) sts on holder for underarm—49 (53, 57, 63, 67, 75, 79, 83) sts rem. Place sts on holder.

YokeJoining row (RS) With yarn attached to body and cont in patt, work to m, remove m, place next 15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29) sts on holder for underarm, remove m, k49 (53, 57, 63, 67, 75, 79, 83) sleeve sts, k77 (87, 97, 107, 117, 127, 137, 147) sts for back, remove m, place next 15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29) sts on holder for underarm, remove m, k49 (53, 57, 63, 67, 75, 79, 83) sleeve sts, knit to end—257 (285, 313, 345, 373, 409, 437, 465) sts. Work even until piece measures 1½ " from underarm, ending with a WS row.Row 1 (RS) K14 (28, 34, 18, 24, 26, 32, 22), *k2,

k2tog; rep from * to last 15 (29, 35, 19, 25, 27, 33, 23) sts, knit to end—200 (228, 252, 268, 292, 320, 344, 360) sts rem.

Row 2 Sl 1, k4, purl to last 5 sts, k5.Row 3 Break MC. Place 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16,

16, 18) sts on holder for front neck. With CC1, k8, *turn, sl 1 wyf, k3, turn, p4, k12;

rep from * to last 14 (16, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22) sts, turn, sl 1 wyf, k3, turn, p4, k4, place next 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18) sts on holder for front neck—180 (204, 228, 240, 264, 288, 312, 324) sts rem.

Row 4 K8, *turn, p4, turn, k3, sl 1 wyf, k12; rep from * to last 4 sts, turn, p4, turn, k3, sl 1 wyf, k4.

Row 5 With MC, k2, ssk, k1, *sl 2 wyb, k10; rep from * to last 7 sts, sl 2 wyb, k1, k2tog, k2—178 (202, 226, 238, 262, 286, 310, 322) sts rem.

Row 6 Purl.Row 7 K2, ssk, k9, k2tog, *k10, k2tog; rep from

* to last 7 sts, k3, k2tog, k2—162 (184, 206, 217, 239, 261, 283, 294) sts rem.

Row 8 Purl.Row 9 With CC2, k2, ssk, k8, *turn, sl 1 wyf,

k3, turn, p4, k11; rep from * to last 7 sts, turn, sl 1 wyf, k3, turn, p4, k3, k2tog, k2—160 (182, 204, 215, 237, 259, 281, 292) sts rem.

14½ (16¼ , 18¼ , 20, 21¾ , 23¾ , 25½ , 27½ )"

12¼ (14¼ , 16, 17¾ , 19¾ , 21½ , 23½ , 25¼ )"

14¼ (16, 17¾ , 19¾ , 21½ , 23½ , 25¼ , 27)"

9¾ (10¾ , 11¾ , 13, 13¾ , 15½ , 16¼ , 17¼ )"

15 (1

5, 1

6, 1

6, 1

7, 1

7, 1

8, 1

8)"

6 (6

½ , 6

¾ , 7

, 7¼

, 7½

, 7¾

, 8)"

5 (5½ , 6¼ , 6½ , 7, 7¾ , 8¼ , 8½ )"

18½ (18½ , 19¼ , 19¼ , 20, 20, 20¾ , 20¾ )"

6½

(6½

, 7½

, 7½

, 8¼

, 8¼

, 9, 9

)"

body

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Row 11 With MC, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1, sl 2 wyb, *k9, sl 2 wyb; rep from * to last 7 sts, k3, k2tog, k2—157 (179, 201, 212, 234, 256, 278, 289) sts rem.

Row 12 Purl.Row 13 K2, ssk, k5, *k2tog, k9; rep from * to

last 5 sts, k1, k2tog, k2—142 (162, 182, 192, 212, 232, 252, 262) sts rem.

Row 14 Purl.Row 15 With CC3, k2, ssk, k9, *turn, sl 1 wyf,

k3, turn, p4, k10; rep from * to last 9 sts, turn, sl 1 wyf, k3, turn, p4, k5, k2tog, k2—140 (160, 180, 190, 210, 230, 250, 260) sts rem.



Row 18 Purl.Row 19 K2, ssk, k1, ssk, k4, *k2tog, k2, k2tog,

k4; rep from * to last 7 sts, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2—110 (126, 142, 150, 166, 182, 198, 206) sts rem.

Row 20 Purl.

k3—40 (46, 52, 55, 61, 67, 73, 76) sts rem. Shape back neck using short-rows as foll:Short-row 1 (WS) Purl to last 8 sts, wrap

next st, turn.Short-row 2 (RS) *K2tog, k1; rep from * to last

8 sts, wrap next st, turn—32 (36, 40, 42, 46, 50, 54, 56) sts rem.

Short-row 3 Purl to 4 sts before wrapped st, wrap next st, turn.

Short-row 4 Knit to 4 sts before wrapped st, wrap next st, turn.

Next row (WS) Purl to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Next row Knit, working rem wraps. Place sts on holder.

F inishingGraft underarm sts using Kitchener st. Weave in ends. Block to measurements. Neck edging: With MC, cir needle, and WS facing, p10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18) held left front neck sts, pick up and purl 20 (22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28) sts along neck edge to back neck, p32 (36, 40, 42, 46, 50, 54, 56) back neck sts, pick up and purl 20 (22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28) sts along right front neck edge, p10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18) held right front neck sts—92 (104, 110, 118, 124, 134, 140, 148) sts total. Using the 3-st I-cord method, BO all sts. Sew buttons to left front band opposite buttonholes. ❤

Row 21 With CC4, k2, ssk, k9, *turn, sl 1 wyf, k3, turn, p4, k8; rep from * to last 9 sts, turn, sl 1 wyf, k3, turn, p4, k5, k2tog, k2—108 (124, 140, 148, 164, 180, 196, 204) sts rem.



Row 24 Purl.Row 25 [K5, k2tog] 2 times, *k6, k2tog; rep

from * to last 12 sts, k5, k2tog, k5—93 (107, 121, 128, 142, 156, 170, 177) sts rem.

Rows 26–28 Work 3 rows even.Row 29 [K4, k2tog] 2 times, *k5, k2tog; rep

from * to last 4 sts, k4—80 (92, 104, 110, 122, 134, 146, 152) sts rem.

Rows 30–32 Work 3 rows even.Row 33 [K3, k2tog] 2 times, *k4, k2tog; rep

from * to last 4 sts, k4—67 (77, 87, 92, 102, 112, 122, 127) sts rem.

Work 1 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) row(s) even. Dec row (RS) [K2, k2tog] 2 times, *k3, k2tog; rep from * to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—53 (61, 69, 73, 81, 89, 97, 101) sts rem. Work 1 (3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15) row(s) even. Dec row (RS) K2, [k2tog] 2 times, *k2, k2tog; rep from * to last 3 sts,

eucalyptus • lavender • grapefruit • unscented • jasmine

1.800.561.9731 www.eucalan.com

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Brioche

Madel i net osh Tosh Spor t

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Orne CardiganMeiju K-P

p age 2 0

Sizes 42¾ (46½ , 50½ , 54¼ , 58¼ , 62, 66)" bust circumference; shown in size 46½ ", modeled with 13½ " of positive easeYarn Madelinetosh Tosh Sport (100% super-wash merino wool; 270 yd [247 m]/115 g): • tern, 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10) skeinsGauge 21 sts and 27 rows = 4" in St st on larger needleTools • Size 6 (4 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle and

set of double-pointed needles (dpn)• Size 4 (3.5 mm): 32" cir needle and set of

dpn• Markers (m)• Removable m• Stitch holders• Tapestry needle


Notes This cardigan is worked back and forth from

the top down. First, the right back collar and right front are worked to the under-arm. These stitches are placed on a holder, and then stitches are picked up from the provisional cast-on and the left back collar and left front are worked to the underarm. Stitches for the back are picked up along the left and right back collars, and the back is worked to the underarm. All three

pieces are joined and the remainder of the body is worked in one piece to the lower edge. Sleeve stitches are picked up around the armhole opening and worked in the round from the top down.

When stitches are slipped purlwise with the yarn in front (wyf), the yarn is then taken to the back of the work, into position to knit the next stitch. The yarn will some-times go over the needle (creating a yar-nover) and sometimes between needles (with no yarnover), as indicated in the instructions.


StitchesBrioche knit (brk): Knit st tog with its companion yo.Sl1yo: Sl next st pwise wyf, bring yarn over needle (see Notes) to back.

Slip Stitch Edge (SSE): (worked over 3 sts)Row 1 (RS) K1, sl 1 pwise wyf, bring yarn to

back between needles, k1.Row 2 (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, bring yarn to back

between needles, k1, sl 1 pwise wyf, bring yarn to back between needles.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.

Right back collar and right frontWith larger cir needle and using a provisional method, CO 40 (44, 48, 52, 54, 58, 62) sts. Do not join. Knit 2 rows. Set-up row (RS) Sl 1 pwise with yarn in back (wyb), *k1, sl1yo (see Stitches); rep from * to last 3 sts, SSE (see Stitches). Next row (WS) SSE, *brk (see Stitches), sl1yo; rep from * to last st, k1. Next row (RS) Sl 1 pwise wyb, *brk, sl1yo; rep from * to last 3 sts, SSE. Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 10½ (11½ , 12½ , 13½ , 14½ , 15½ , 16½ )" from CO, ending with a WS row. Place removable marker (pm) at beg of next RS row for top edge of armhole. Cont in patt until armhole measures 5¼ (5½ , 6, 6½ , 7¼ , 8¼ , 9)" from m, ending with a WS row. Place sts on holder and break yarn.

Left back collar and left front Remove waste yarn from provisional CO and place 40 (44, 48, 52, 54, 58, 62) CO sts on larger cir needle. With RS facing, join yarn. Knit 2 rows. Set-up row (RS) SSE, *sl1yo, k1; rep from * to last st, p1. Next row

(WS) Sl 1 kwise wyb, *sl1yo, brk; rep from * to last 3 sts, SSE. Next row (RS) SSE, *sl1yo, brk; rep from * to last st, p1. Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 10½ (11½ , 12½ , 13½ , 14½ , 15½ , 16½ )" from CO, ending with a WS row. Pm at end of next RS row for top edge of armhole. Cont in patt until armhole measures 5¼ (5½ , 6, 6½ , 7¼ , 8¼ , 9)" from m, ending with a WS row. Place sts on holder; do not break yarn.

Back With larger cir needle and RS facing, beg at left front armhole m, pick up and knit 111 (121, 131, 141, 153, 163, 173) sts evenly along sl st edge of collar to right front armhole m. Beg with a purl row, work in St st until piece measures 5¼ (5½ , 6, 6½ , 7¼ , 8¼ , 9)" from pick-up row, ending with a WS row. Break yarn.

Lower bodyPlace sts from right and left fronts onto needle with back sts. Join fronts and back: Next row (RS) Using yarn from left front, work 40 (44, 48, 52, 54, 58, 62) left front sts in patt, pm, k111 (121, 131, 141, 153, 163, 173) back sts, pm, work 40 (44, 48, 52, 54, 58, 62) right front sts in patt—191 (209, 227, 245, 261, 279, 297) sts. Cont in patt as established until piece measures 22" from pick-up row, ending with a WS row. Change to smaller cir needle. Set-up row (RS) SSE, *p1, brk; rep from * to last 4 sts, p1, SSE. Next row (WS) SSE, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 4 sts, k1, SSE. Next row (RS) SSE, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts, p1, SSE. Cont in rib patt as established until piece measures 26" from pick-up row. BO all sts in patt.

Sleeves With larger dpn and RS facing, beg at lower edge of armhole, pick up and knit 56 (58, 64, 68, 76, 88, 94) sts evenly around armhole.

42¾ (46½ , 50½ , 54¼ , 58¼ , 62, 66)" 20¾

(20½

, 2

0, 1

9½ ,

18¾

, 1

7¾ ,

17)

"

5¼

(5½

, 6, 6

½ , 7

¼ , 8

¼ , 9

)"

10½

(11½

, 1

2½ ,

13½

, 1

4½ ,

15½

, 1

6½ )

"

10¾

(11,

12¼

, 1

3, 1

4½ ,

16¾

, 1

8)"

8¾

(8¾

, 8¾

, 8¾

, 9½

, 9½

, 10)

" 16"

right

back

collar

&

right

front

back

left

back

collar

&

left

front

sleeve

064_071_KSFall15.indd 64 6/5/15 11:33 AM

Fall15 Knitscene 65

Brio

che

Pm and join in the rnd. Dec rnd K2, k2tog,

Dec rnd every 15th (13th, 8th, 7th, 6th, 4th, 3rd) rnd 4 (5, 8, 10, 12, 18, 20) more

Work even until sleeve measures 12" from underarm. Cuff: Change to smaller dpn.

F inishingBlock sweater to measurements. Weave in ends. ❤

Schoppel-Wol le Zau berba l l

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TourlavilleShawlZsuzsa Kiss

p ag e 19

Size 43" wide and 18½ " tall at centerYarn Schoppel-Wolle Zauberball (75% wool, 25% nylon; 459 yd [420 m]/100 g):• #1536 fuchsia, 2 balls

GaugeTools• Size 1½ (2.5 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle• Markers (m)• Tapestry needle


Notes This shawl is knit from the top down. The

while the edges are worked in bri-

curve.

needles. It is created by working each row in two passes, once with each color, slip-

ing rows, Rows a and b count as one (right side or wrong side) row.

The shawl is worked alternating two balls of the same colorway of a long color repeat yarn. Begin each ball at a different section of color. If the balls both appear to begin at the same point in the color repeat, wind off some of one ball until you reach a sec-tion of color that contrasts well with the beginning color of the other ball. Should

the �rst ball and a dark color on the second ball (wind off yarn from both balls until you reach the desired colors).

A circular needle is required because each row is worked two times by sliding the stitches to the other end of the needle.

It is easy to keep track of where you are, whether you are knitting the row for the �rst or the second time: just keep in mind which yarn ball is which. Increases are always worked on the �rst row (Row a) of each set.

StitchesBrioche knit (brk):companion yo.Brioche purl (brp):companion yo.Sl1yo:needle to back.Sl1yof:needle to back, then between needles to front.

Shawlrows; do not turn after last row. Rotate work

Set-up row (WS) K3, p1, place marker (pm), p1, pm, p1, k3, turn.

Row 1a (RS) With 2nd ball, k3, M1L, k1, M1R,

Row 1b (RS) With �rst ball, knit, turn.Row 2a (WS) With 2nd ball, k3, M1LP, purl to

Row 2b (WS) With �rst ball, k3, purl to last

Row 3a (RS) With 2nd ball, k3, M1L, [sl1yo (see

Row 3b (RS) With �rst ball, k3, [sl1yo, brk (see

[brk, sl1yo] 3 times, k3, turn.Row 4a (WS) With 2nd ball, k3, M1LP, *brp (see

Stitches), sl1yof (see Stitches); rep from *

Row 4b (WS) With �rst ball, k3, p1, *sl1yof, brp;

Row 5a (RS) With 2nd ball, k3, M1L, *sl1yo,

Row 5b (RS) With �rst ball, k3, *sl1yo, brk; rep

Rep Rows 4a–5b 37 more times, then work

2nd ball. Inc row (RS) K3, M1L, knit to m,

Next row (WS) Knit. Rep Inc rowNext row

F inishingBlock. Weave in ends. ❤

064_071_KSFall15.indd 65 6/5/15 11:33 AM


66 knitscene.com

Brioche

Sweet G eorg ia Super wa sh Wors t ed

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Bessin ScarfSharon Fuller

p age 2 1

Size 6" wide and 78" longYarn Sweet Georgia Superwash Worsted (100% superwash merino wool; 200 yd [183 m]/115 g):• mink (MC), 2 skeins• raspberry (CC), 2 skeinsGauge 19 sts and 20 rows = 4" in two-color brioche rib (see Notes)Tools• Size 6 (4 mm): 24" circular (cir) needle or

two 10" double-pointed needles (dpn) (see Notes)

• Removable markers (m)• Tapestry needle


NotesThis pattern requires the use of a circular needle

or double-pointed needles because each row is worked two times by sliding the stitches to the other end of the needle.

When counting stitches, each slipped stitch with its companion yarnover count as one stitch. When counting rows, Rows 1a and 1b count as one wrong side row, and Rows 2a and 2b count as one right side row.

For circle placement, all references to stitch counts are counted from the right, as viewed from the right side, even though the cir-cle starts on the wrong side. The terms right and wrong sides are used for clarity; once

you are finished with the scarf, the right side is whichever one you like best.

When starting a circle, it is helpful to place stitch markers in the fabric in the center column of the circle and the columns that will be the two edges, as specified in the pattern.

On CC rows, the circles are worked in the oppo-site stitch from the rest of the row (e.g. Row 1b is purled in the circle and brk across the row). Be sure to change back to the cor-rect stitch at the far edge of the circle.

Work the edge stitches firmly for a neater selvedge.

StitchesYfsl1yo: Yarn forward between needle tips, sl next st pwise wyf, yarn over needle to back.Sl1yof: Sl next st pwise wyf, yarn over needle to back, then between needles to front.Brioche knit (brk): Knit st tog with its companion yo.Brioche purl (brp): Purl st tog with its companion yo.

Two-Color Brioche Rib: (odd number of sts)Row 1a (WS) With MC, sl CC st pwise wyf, bring

MC over right needle from front to back then between needles to front, *brp (see Stitches), sl1yof; rep from * to last 2 sts, brp, sl 1 pwise wyb (do not bring yarn over), slide sts to other end of needle.

Row 1b (WS) With CC, skp (CC st and MC yo), *yfsl1yo (see Stitches), brk (see Stitches); rep from * to last 2 sts, yfsl1yo, k1, turn.

Row 2a (RS) With MC, sl CC st pwise wyf, bring MC over right needle from front to back, *brk, yfsl1yo; rep from * to last 2 sts, brk, sl 1 pwise wyb (do not bring yarn over), slide sts to other end of needle.

Row 2b (RS) With CC, p2tog (CC st and MC yo), *sl1yof, brp; rep from * to last 2 sts, sl1yof, p1, turn.

Rep Rows 1a/b and 2a/b for patt.

Knit Loop Bind-off:Cut yarn to 4 times the width of the work. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, bring yarn to front of work, *insert tapestry needle through 2nd st from front to back, as if to knit through the back loop, bring tapestry needle behind work and insert through first st from right to left, as if to purl, sl this st off knitting needle; rep from * until 1 st rem. Insert tapestry needle through last st from left to right as if to purl through back loop and sl st off knitting needle.

ScarfWith MC and using the long-tail method, CO 58 sts.Set-up row 1a (RS) With MC, *k2tog; rep from

* to end—29 sts rem. Do not turn; slide sts to other end of needle.

Set-up row 1b (RS) With CC, *p1, sl1yof (see Stitches); rep from * to last st, p1, turn.

First half: [Work Rows 1a/b and 2a/b of Two-Color Brioche Rib (see Stitches)] 4 times (4 patt reps). Place markers (pm) in fabric at sts 16, 20, and 24. Cont in patt, work Small Circle chart, centered on st 20. Work Rows 2a/b of patt, then 4 more patt reps. Pm at sts 4, 9, and 14. Work Medium Circle chart, centered on st 9. Work 2 patt reps. Pm at sts 12, 16, and 20. Work Small Circle chart, centered on st 16. Work Rows 2a/b of patt, then 5 more patt reps. Pm at sts 4, 8, and 12. Work Small Circle chart, centered on st 8. Work Rows 2a/b of patt once. Pm at sts 14, 20, and 26. Work Large Circle chart, centered on st 20. Work 4 patt reps. Pm at sts 8, 13, and 18. Work Medium Circle chart, centered on st 13. Work 11 patt reps. Pm at sts 14, 18, and 22. Work Small Circle chart, centered on st 18. Work Rows 2a/b of patt, then 5 more patt reps. Pm at sts 6, 10, and 14. Work Small Circle chart, centered on st 10. Work Rows 2a/b of patt, then 9 more patt reps. Pm at sts 14, 18, and 22. Work Small Circle

with MC, k on RS; p on WS

with CC, k on RS; p on WS

with MC, brk on RS; brp on WS

with CC, brp on RS; brk on WS

with MC, yfsl1yo on RS; sl1yof on WS

with CC, sl1yof on RS; yfsl1yo on WS













11 sts

8b8a

6b6a

4b4a

2b2a

1b (WS)1a (WS)

9 sts

6b6a

4b4a

2b2a

1b (WS)1a (WS)

Small CircleMedium Circle

13 sts

10b10a

8b8a

6b6a

4b4a

2b2a

1b (WS)1a (WS)

Large Circle

064_071_KSFall15.indd 66 6/5/15 11:33 AM


Fall15 Knitscene 67

www.irishtourism.com/knittingToll free 1877 298 7205

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067_KSFall15.indd 67 6/1/15 4:07 PM

68 knitscene.com

Brioche

and 16. Work Large Circle chart, centered Second half:

Rep �rst half. Work 4 more patt reps, then work Rows 1a/b once more. Set-up for bind-off:Row 1 (RS) With MC, p1, *brk, p1; rep from *

to end, turn.Row 2 (WS) With MC, p1, *yo, p1; rep from *

With MC and using the knit loop method

to match CO.

F inishingWeave in ends. Block. ❤

T he F i bre Compa ny Orga n i k

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Argentan PulloverLeah McGlone

p age 2 2

Sizes 36 (40½ , 44, 48½ , 52, 56½ )" bust circumference; shown in size 36", modeled with 3" of positive ease.Yarn The Fibre Company Organik

15% silk; 98 yd [90 m]/50 g):snieks )91 ,81 ,61 ,51 ,31( 21 ,citsejam •

GaugeTools

eldeen )ric( ralucric "23 :)mm 5.4( 7 eziS •and set of double-pointed needles (dpn)

)m( srekraM •sredloh hctitS •

eldeen yrtsepaT •

NotesThe hems for this pullover are worked back

and forth separately, then joined, and the body is worked in the round to the under-arm. The front and back are then worked separately to the shoulders. The sleeves are picked up around the armholes and worked in the round from the top down.

StitchesBrioche knit (brk):companion yo.Sl1yof:needle to back, then between needles to front.Sl1yo:needle to back.1/1 RT:

needle.1/1 LT:

BodyBack hem:

Row 1 (WS) [P1, k1] 3 times, p1, k2, p2, place marker (pm), *k1, p1; rep from * to last

Row 2 (RS) [K1, p1] 3 times, k1, p2, 1/1 RT (see

p2, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1.Rep Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 3" from CO, ending with a WS row. Break yarn

Front hem: Work as for back hem until piece measures 2"

on needle and do not break yarn. Join front and back hems: Next rnd Using the

needle, pm for side, then with RS of back hem facing, work 85 (95, 103, 113, 121, 131)

rnd. Body: Set-up rnd *[Sl1yof (see Stitches),

more.Rnd 1 *[Brk (see Stitches), p1] 4 times, p1, 1/1

Rnd 2

rep from * once more.Rep Rnds 1 and 2 until piece measures 15" from row where hems were joined, ending

end-of-rnd m. Divide for front and back: Next rnd

removing m, work in patt to end—79 (89,

Back: Next row (WS) [K1, sl1yo (see Stitches)] 2 times,

k1] 2 times. Next row (RS) [P1, brk] 2 times,

[brk, p1] 2 times. Work even in patt until armhole measures 7½ (7½ , 9½ , 9½ , 11½ , 11½ )", ending with a RS row. Shape shoulders using short-rows as foll:Short-rows 1 and 2 Work in patt to last 9 (10,

Short-rows 3 and 4 Work in patt to 8 (9, 10, 11,

Short-rows 5 and 6 Work in patt to 7 (8, 9, 10,

Next row (WS) Work in patt to end, working Next row (RS)

Work in patt, working wraps tog with

armhole measures 8 (8, 10, 10, 12, 12)" at side edge, ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) Place 24 (27, 30, 33, 36,

holder, place 24 (27, 30, 33, 36, 39) left Front: Return

needle and with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Work as for back until armhole measures 4¾ (4¾ , 6¼ , 6¼ , 7¾ , 7¾ )", ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) Work

Right front: Dec row (WS) Work in patt to last

Dec row (WS)

more, then every 4th row 3 times—24 (27,

armhole measures 7½ (7½ , 9½ , 9½ , 11½ , 11½ )", ending with a WS row. Shape shoulder using short-rows as foll:Short-row 1 (RS) Work in patt to last 9 (10, 11,

Short-row 2 Work in patt to end.Short-row 3 Work in patt to 8 (9, 10, 11, 12,

064_071_KSFall15.indd 68 6/5/15 11:33 AM

Fall15 Knitscene 69

Halcyon Yarnhalcyonyarn.com ~ 800.341.0282 ~ 12 School St. Bath, Maine

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069_KSFall15.indd 69 6/1/15 4:07 PM

70 knitscene.com

Brioche

Short-row 4 Rep Short-row 2.Next row (RS) Work in patt to end, working

patt until armhole measures 8 (8, 10, 10, 12, 12)" at side edge, ending with a WS row.

Left front:

cir needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Dec row (WS) K1, [ssk] 2 times, work in patt

1 RS row. Dec row (WS) K1, ssk, work in Dec row

every WS row once more, then every 4th

Work even until armhole measures 7½ (7½ , 9½ , 9½ , 11½ , 11½ )", ending with a RS row. Shape shoulder using short-rows as foll:Short-row 1 (WS) Work to last 9 (10, 11, 12, 13,

Short-row 2 Work in patt to end.Short-row 3

Short-row 4 Rep Short-row 2.Next row (WS) Work to end, working wraps

until armhole measures 8 (8, 10, 10, 12, 12)" at side edge, ending with a WS row. Do not break yarn. Join shoulders using three-needle BO.

SleevesWith dpn and RS facing, beg at center of underarm, pick up and knit 78 (78, 87, 87,

and join in the rnd. Purl 6 rnds. Dec rnd P1,

dec’d. Cont in Rev St st, rep Dec rnd every 7 (7, 6, 6, 5, 5)th rnd 12 (12, 15, 15, 18, 18)

Work even until sleeve measures 16 (16, 17, 17, 18, 18)" from underarm, dec 0 (0, 1, 1, 0,

patt.

F inishingNeckband: With dpn, RS facing, and beg at right shoulder seam, knit 31 (35, 37, 41, 43,

pick up and knit 61 (65, 71, 75, 81, 85) evenly along front neck—92 (100, 108, 116, 124,

ends. Block to measurements. ❤

Ma la br igo Chu n k y

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Caen CowlDeborah Helmke

p age 16

Size 72" circumference and 11" wideYarn Malabrigo Chunky (100% merino wool; 104 yd [95 m]/100 g): • #148 hollyhock, 5 skeinsGaugeTools• Size 11 (8 mm) needles• Tapestry needle• 14" piece of cardboard


NotesThis cowl is worked back and forth and

seamed. If you want to graft the cowl instead, go to bit.ly/GraftingBrioche for a video demonstration on how to graft brioche.

with its companion yarnover count as

visible row counts as two rows of brioche stitch.

StitchesBrioche knit (brk):companion yo.Sl1yo: Sl 1 pwise wyf, yarn over needle to back.

Brioche Stitch:Set-up row *Sl1yo (see Stitches), k1; rep from * to end. Row 1 *Sl1yo, brk (see Stitches); rep from * to

end. Rep Row 1 for patt.

Cowluntil piece measures 72" from CO. Next rowrib patt.

F inishingWeave in ends and block. Sew short ends tog, being careful not to twist. Fringe: Wrap yarn around cardboard 6 times. Cut end and remove from cardboard. Fold yarn in half. Place folded end through edge of cowl and loop through other ends. Trim fringe to 4½ " from top of loop. Make 18 more fringes and place 4" apart. ❤

36 (40½ , 44, 48½ , 52, 56½ )"

3"1"

15"

8 (8

, 10,

10,

12,

12)

"¾ "

7 (7¾ , 8¼ , 9, 9½ , 10½ )"

5 (5½ , 6¼ , 7, 7½ , 8¼ )"3¾

(3

¾ , 4

¼ , 4

¼ , 4

¾ , 4

¾ )" 18 (18, 19, 19, 20, 20)"

17¼ (17¼ , 19¼ , 19¼ , 21¼ , 21¼ )"

11½

(11½

, 1

2¼ ,

12¼

, 1

3, 1

3)"

body

064_071_KSFall15.indd 70 6/5/15 11:33 AM


Fall15 Knitscene 71

Brio

che

Si ncere Sheep Shepherdess Wors t ed

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Bayeux CowlJennifer Mat tesk y

p age 18

Size 60" circumference and 9½ " tallYarn Sincere Sheep Shepherdess Worsted (100% wool; 250 yd [229 m]/113 g): • quercus, 3 skeinsGaugeTools • Size 6 (4 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle • Marker (m)• Tapestry needle


Notes This cowl is worked in the round.

with its companion yarnover count as

visible round counts as two rounds of brioche stitch.

StitchesSl1yof:needle to back, then between needles to front.Sl1yo:over needle to back.Brioche knit (brk):companion yo.

Brioche purl (brp):companion yo.

CowlSet-up rnd *Sl1yo (see Stitches), k1; rep from * to end. Next rnd *Brp (see Stitches), sl1yof (see Stitches); rep from * to end.Rnd 1 *Sl1yo, brk (see Stitches); rep from * to

end.Rnd 2 *Brp, sl1yof; rep from * to end.Rep Rnds 1 and 2 four more times.Rnd 3 *Sl1yof, brp; rep from * to end.Rnd 4 *Brk, sl1yo; rep from * to end.Rep Rnds 3 and 4 �ve more times. *Work Rnds 1 and 2 six times, then work Rnds 3 and 4 six times; rep from * 2 more times.

F inishingWeave in ends. Block to measurements. ❤

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064_071_KSFall15.indd 71 6/5/15 11:33 AM


72 knitscene.com

A G

ood Yarn

Sh i bu i K n it s Maa i

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Cormac SweaterLeah B. Thibault

p age 3 1

Sizes 41½ (44½ , 47½ , 50½ , 53½ , 57)" bust circumference; shown in size 41½ ", modeled with 8½ " of positive easeYarn Shibui Knits Maai (70% superbaby alpaca, 30% �ne merino wool; 175 yd

snieks )9 ,8 ,8 ,7 ,6( 6 ,nellop 1402# •GaugeTools

needle)m( rekraM •

m elbavomeR •sredloh hctitS •

eldeen yrtsepaT •


Notes This pullover is worked back and forth in

pieces and seamed. The front and back are identical.

During neck and sleeve shaping, maintain the lace pattern as much as possible.

work a decrease with its companion

Back

measures 3½ " from CO, ending with a WS row. Work Lace chart until piece measures 17 (18, 18¼ , 18¾ , 20¼ , 20½ )" from CO, ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS)

on holder. Right shoulder: Dec row (WS) Dec row

Left shoulder: Leaving center 37 (37, 45, 45, 45,

with RS facing, rejoin yarn. Work 1 RS row. Dec rowdec’d. Rep Dec row every WS row 9

FrontWork as for back.

Sleeves

measures 3" from CO, ending with a WS row. Work Lace chart for 8 (8, 6, 6, 6, 6) rows. Inc row (RS) K1, M1L, work in patt as established

Inc row every 8 (8, 6, 6, 6, 6)th row 3 (4, 11, 11, 7, 3)

until piece measures 16 (16¼ , 16¾ , 16¾ , 16¾ ,

F inishingBlock pieces to measurements. Sew shoulder seams. Neckband: With cir needle and RS facing, beg at left shoulder, *pick up and knit

front neck edge; rep from * once more for back

marker and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib

7¾ (8, 8¾ , 9¼ , 9½ , 10½ )" down from shoulder seam on front and back. Sew top of sleeves between m. Sew underarm and side seams. Weave in ends. ❤

k on RS; p on WS

sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso—2 st dec’d

pattern repeat

k2tog

ssk

yo

3

1

4 st rep

Lace

20¾ (22¼ , 23¾ , 25¼ , 26¾ , 28½ )"

19¾

(20

¾ , 2

1, 2

1½ ,

23,

23¼

)"

5 (5¾ , 5¾ , 6½ , 7¼ , 7¼ )"

10¾ (10¾ , 12½ , 12½ , 12½ , 14)"

2¾ "

front & back

10 (10¾ , 10¾ , 11½ , 11½ , 12½ )"

16 (1

6¼ ,

16¾

, 1

6¾ ,

16¾

, 1

6¾ )

"

15½ (16, 17½ , 18½ , 19, 21)"

sleeve

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Yarn

S. Cha r les Col lez ione Enya

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O’Connor CowlHarr y Wells

p ag e 3 2

Size 7" wide and 42" circumferenceYarn ton, 36% ramie; 82 yd [75 m]/50 g): • #04 topaz, 5 balls

GaugeTools

seldeen )mm 5.6( ½01 eziS •)nc( eldeen elbaC •

nray etsaW •eldeen yrtsepaT •


CowlUsing the crochet chain provisional method,

of Reversible Woven Braid chart, then work

holder. Break yarn, leaving a 30" tail for grafting.

F inishingBlock. Remove waste yarn from provisional

clockwise once around needle and bringing

a 2nd needle and, holding needles parallel

Graft in patt: Rep Steps 1–8 of grafting

back needle on Step 7 of last rep. Weave ❤

Rowa n L i ma

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Faulkner HatAngela Hahn

p age 3 3

Sizes 19¼ (21½ )" circumference at brim; shown in size 21½ " Yarn Rowan Lima (84% baby alpaca,

• #888 Lima, 2 skeins

GaugeTools

detniop-elbuod fo teS :)mm 5.5( 9 eziS •needles (dpn)

)m( srekraM •)nc( eldeen elbaC •

eldeen yrtsepaT •


pattern repeat

Sequence A Sequence B

PK

PK

KP

KP

Back Needle (BN)

Front Needle (FN)

BN BN

FN FN

k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS

pattern repeat

sl 4 sts onto cn,

hold in back,

[k1, p1] 2 times,

then [k1, p1]

2 times from cn

sl 4 sts onto cn,

hold in front,

[k1, p1] 2 times,

then [k1, p1]

2 times from cn

grafting tail threaded on a tapestry needle,

instructions.

Sequence AStep 1Step 2Step 3Step 4

Sequence BStep 5Step 6Step 7Step 8

8 st repeat

11

9

7

5

3

1

Reversible Woven Braid

BN

FNPK

PK

KP

KP

Grafting Chart

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Notes The cabled band is worked back and forth

and the ends are grafted together in pat-tern. Stitches for the hat body are picked up around one edge of the cabled band and worked up to the crown.

BandUsing the crochet chain provisional method, CO 15 sts, leaving a 6" tail. Do not join. Work Rows 1–44 (1–48) of Cabled Band chart (for your size) 2 times, then work Rows 1–42 (1–46) once more. Break yarn, leaving a 12" tail for grafting. Remove waste yarn from provisional CO and place 15 sts on a 2nd needle. With 6" CO tail threaded on a tapestry needle, create an extra st on same needle by wrapping yarn clockwise once around needle and bringing it to WS of work—16 sts. Holding needles parallel with CO sts in back, WS tog, and with grafting tail threaded on a tapestry needle, graft sts in patt foll grafting chart or written instruc-tions. Note: In the written instructions, the sequences appear first, followed by the order in which the sequences are worked.

Sequence A (knit st on FN, knit st on BN)Step 1 Pwise through st on FN, leave.Step 2 Pwise through st on BN, remove.Step 3 Kwise through next st on BN, leave.Step 4 Kwise through st on FN, remove.

Sequence B (purl st on FN, purl st on BN)Step 1 Kwise through st on FN, leave.Step 2 Kwise through st on BN, remove.Step 3 Pwise through next st on BN, leave.Step 4 Pwise through st on FN, remove.

Sequence C (2/2 LPC on FN; 2 purl sts, 2 knit sts on BN)Rearrange 4 sts on FN as foll: Sl 2 sts onto tapestry needle and hold in front, remove next 2 sts from FN temporarily and transfer 2 sts from tapestry needle back onto FN, then return 2 live sts to FN. Work Sequence B 2 times, work Sequence A 2 times.

Graft in patt: *Work Sequence A 2 times, work Sequence B 2 times; rep from * once more, work Sequence A 2 times, work Sequence C (over 4 sts each needle) once, work Sequence A once, removing last st from back needle on Step 3 of last rep. Weave in ends.

BodyWith RS facing, pick up and knit 96 (108) sts (about 3 sts for every 4 rows) evenly around left edge of band. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in St st until piece measures 4

PK

PK

KPKPPKPKKP

KP KPKPPKPK

Sequence A Sequence B Sequence C

pattern repeat

BN

FN

BN

FN

BN

FN

Back Needle (BN)

Front Needle (FN)

PK

PK

KPKPPKPKKP

KP KPKPPKPK

Sequence A Sequence B Sequence C

pattern repeat

BN

FN

BN

FN

BN

FN

Back Needle (BN)

Front Needle (FN)

k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, k2 from cn

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, k2, k2 from cn

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, p2 from cn

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p2, k2 from cn

k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS





k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS





PK

PK

PK

PK

KP

KP

KP

KP

PK

PK

PK

PK

KP

KP

KP

KP

PK

PK

PK

PK

PK

PK BN

FN

work 2x

Grafting Chart

15 sts

43

41

39

37

35

33

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

Cabled Band size 191⁄4"

15 sts

47

45

43

41

39

37

35

33

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

Cabled Band size 211⁄2"

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Yarn

(4½ )" from pick-up rnd. Next rnd [K16 (18), pm] Dec rnd

Rep Dec rnd every other rnd 6 (7) Next rnd


Ca scade Ya r n s C loud

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Caldwell PulloverCour tney Spainhower

p ag e 3 4

Sizes 34 (38½ , 42, 44¼ , 47)" bust circum-ference; shown in size 34", modeled with 1" of positive easeYarn Cascade Yarns Cloud (70% merino wool,

• #2105 pumpkin, 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) skeinsGaugeTools

)ric( ralucric "42 dna "61 :)mm 5.5( 9 eziS •needles and set of double-pointed needles (dpn)

)m( srekraM •sredloh hctitS •

eldeen yrtsepaT •


NotesThis sweater is worked in the round from the

top down.When working the yoke, change to longer

circular needle when necessary.

StitchesTwisted Rib:Rnd 1 *K1tbl, p1; rep from * to end.Rep Rnd 1 for patt.

Yoke

rnd. Work in Twisted Rib (see Stitches) until piece measures ¾ " from CO. Set-up rnd K24 (26, 27, 26, 28) for front, pm, k1, pm, k7 (9, 9, 11, 11) for center of sleeve, pm, k1, pm, k20 (22, 23, 22, 24) for back, pm, k1, pm, k7 (9, 9, 11, 11) for center of sleeve, pm, k1. Inc rnd

Next rnd Knit. Rep last

Divide for body and sleeves: Next rnd

(keeping m in place), pm, using the

BodyNext rnd *Knit to m, remove m, k1, pm, purl

k1, remove m; rep from * once more. Next rnd Knit. Rep last 2 rnds 20 (24, 27, 30, 32)

piece measures 12 (13, 15, 16, 17)" from underarm. Work in Twisted Rib for 1¾ ".

Sleevesdpn. With RS facing, pm, pick up and knit

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Next rndm, knit to m, remove m, k1, pm, purl to m, knit to end. Next rnd Knit. Next rnd Knit to

knit to m, remove m, k1, pm, purl to m, knit

Dec rndk1, remove m, knit to m, remove m, k1, pm,

dec’d. Cont in patt, shifting m every other

rnd. Next rndbefore m, pm, k1, remove m, knit to m, remove m, k1, pm, purl to m, remove m,

1 rnd. Dec rndpm, k1, remove m, knit to m, remove m, k1,

Cont in patt, shifting m every other rnd as

rnd. Next rnd P3 (2, 2, 3, 2), k1, remove m, knit to m, remove m, k1, p3 (2, 2, 3, 2). Knit 1 rnd. Dec rnd

Dec rnd

Work even until piece measures 13 (14½ , 15, 15¾ , 16)" from underarm. Dec rnd Ssk, knit to


Ju n iper Moon Fa r m Moon sh i ne

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Williams ClocheSarah Solomon

p age 3 5

Size 20" band circumference and 7¾ " tallYarn Juniper Moon Farm Moonshine

[180 m]/100 g): • #25 iced coffee, 1 skein

GaugeTools

eldeen )ric( ralucric "04 :)mm 5.4( 7 eziS •and set of double-pointed needles (dpn)

)m( srekraM •m elbavomeR •

eldeen yrtsepaT •


NotesThis hat begins with a small Möbius loop

picked up around half of the piece to form the crown of the hat.

accommodate a range of head sizes. If a deeper hat is desired, work additional

crown before beginning the decrease section.

The bind-off edge of brim will naturally curl towards the right side of the fabric; pick

behind the bind-off edge on the wrong side of the fabric. This will leave the

as a decorative seam.

HatWith cir needle and using the Möbius method

yarn, leaving a 6" tail. With tail threaded on a tapestry needle, close gap at beg of rnd. Leave tail hanging loose to mark center back of Möbius. Secure Möbius twist: With RS

bottom. Arrange twist so it is equidistant from tail. Pin twist with removable m at point where the 2 edges cross. Crown: With dpn and RS facing, beg at tail, pick up and knit

through both layers of fabric to secure twist. Pm and join in the rnd. Knit until piece measures 1¾ " from pick-up rnd. Shape crown: Dec rndrem. Knit 4 rnds. Dec rnd [K2, k2tog]

Dec rnd

Dec rndDec rnd

Break yarn, leaving a 6" tail. With tail threaded on tapestry needle, draw tail

to WS.


34 (38½ , 42, 44¼ , 47)"

13¾ (14¾ , 16¾ , 17¾ , 18¾ )"

8 (9, 9¾ , 10½ , 11)"

¾ (1, 1, 1¼ , 1¼ )"

4¾ (5¼ , 5½ , 5¼ , 5¾ )" 15 (16½ , 17, 17¾ , 18)"

8¼

(8¼

, 9¼

, 9¾

, 10)

"

15¾ (17¼ , 18½ , 19½ , 20½ )"body

072_077_KSFall15.indd 76 6/9/15 12:18 PM


Fall15 Knitscene 77

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YarnMake a slipknot, leaving a 6" tail, and place it on the

circular needle, at the center of the cable. Hold slipknot and center of cable between the thumb and first two fingers of your right hand, leaving needle tips hanging down. Take left needle tip in your left hand and bring it around counter-clock-wise to slipknot (making a circle) (Fig. 1). Hold left needle tip (hereafter referred to as active needle) along with slipknot and cable, with needle tip in front. Leave right needle tip hanging down and out of work. With your left hand, hold the cable several inches to the left of the slipknot and active needle, between your thumb and middle finger, and hold the ball strand comfortably between your palm and fingers. Sling the yarn over your left index finger, up and away from the cable. As you cast on, you will work into the strand that runs from the slipknot to the top of your index finger.

Step 1: Bring the active needle forward and under the cable, over ball strand, catching the ball strand, then back under the cable to its original position (1 stitch cast on; stitch is anchored under the cable; Fig. 2).Step 2: Bring the active needle behind and under ball strand (Fig. 3), (1 stitch cast on; stitch resembles a yarnover and is not anchored under the cable; Fig. 4).Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until you have cast on the required number of stitches. Each time you cast on two stitches onto the active needle with these steps, two matching stitches will have been cast on to the cable beneath the active needle. Count only the stitches on the active needle; do not count the stitches on the cable beneath, nor the slipknot. When you have finished, the stitches will have filled up the circle created by looping the needle around, and both needle tips will meet at the center of the cable where the slipknot was placed (Fig. 5).

Holding both needle tips between a thumb and middle finger, adjust the cable so that you have two circles of the same size. Distribute the stitches evenly around the doubled cable so that the round may be worked comfortably. Make sure that the doubled cable runs parallel for the entire circumference, except for one point at the beginning where the active needle must cross the lower cable. Place a marker on the right needle.

For each round given in pattern, work two rings. First ring: Work to marker (marker is between needles, on the cable below the needle tips). Second ring: Work to marker (marker is on the left needle, and can be slipped to the right needle). The first time the first ring is worked, the stitches will be mounted in an alternating fashion with the front leg of the loop either behind or in front of the cable, and each stitch forms a triangle with the cable upon which it is mounted. Knit into the center of each triangle as you work the stitches. The first time the second ring is begun, the stitches will appear as though they have been purled; knit into these as well. As work progresses, the two loops of the cable will grow further apart.

Cat Bordhi’s Möbius Cast-On

Pinch cable here, between

left thumband middle

�nger

Sling working yarnover left index �nger

With right hand,hold center of cable, slipknot, and active needle

Bring needle forward, under cable, up over yarn, then under cable

Make a yarnover on needle by bringing needle behind and

under yarn

Distribute the stitches evenly around the doubled cable, making sure the doubled cable runs parallel for the entire circumference except for one point where the active needle must cross the lower cable. Place a marker on the right needle.

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 4

Figure 5

pattern #128

spinnery.com

resource guide

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Ply mout h Ya r n DK Mer i no Super wa sh

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Maduri SweaterChe Lam

p age 4 8

Sizes 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 57¼ )" bust circumference; shown in size 40", modeled with 4" of positive easeYarn Plymouth Yarn DK Merino Superwash (100% superwash fine merino; 130 yd [119 m]/50 g):• #1118 dark grey, 12 (13, 15, 16, 18, 20)

skeinsGauge 24 sts and 29 rnds = 4" in charted patt on larger needleTools• Size 6 (4 mm): 32–40" circular (cir) needle,

depending on size you are making, and set of double-pointed needles (dpn)

• Size 4 (3.5 mm): 32–40" cir needle, 16" cir needle and set of dpn

• Markers (m)• Stitch holders• Tapestry needle


NotesThe body of this pullover is worked in the

round to the underarm, then the front and back are worked separately back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round from the bottom up, with the sleeve cap worked back and forth.

The Texture chart is worked both in rounds and back and forth in rows. When working in rows, purl even-numbered (wrong-side) rows.

BodyWith smaller, longer cir needle, CO 216 (240, 264, 288, 312, 344) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Next rnd Work in k2, p2 rib over 108 (120, 132, 144, 156, 172) sts, pm for side, work in k2, p2 rib to end. Cont in rib patt as established until piece measures 2" from CO. Change to larger cir needle. Work Texture chart until piece measures 18 (18, 18½ , 19, 19, 19¾ )" from CO, ending with Rnd 4 of chart and ending 5 (5, 7, 9, 11, 13) sts before rnd m on last rnd. Divide for front and back: Next rnd BO 10 (10, 14, 18, 22, 26) sts, removing m (1 st rem on right needle after BO), k2 (2, 0, 2, 0, 2), *yo, k2, pass yo over 2 knit sts, k2; rep from * to 8 (8, 8, 12, 12, 16) sts before side m, [yo, k2, pass yo over 2 knit sts] 1 (1, 0, 1, 0, 1) time, k1, place 98 (110, 118, 126, 134, 146) sts just worked on holder for front, BO 10 (10, 14, 18, 22, 26) sts, removing m, k2 (2, 0, 2, 0, 2), *yo, k2, pass yo over 2 knit sts, k2; rep from * to last 3 (3, 1, 3, 1, 3) st(s), [yo, k2, pass yo over 2 knit sts] 1 (1, 0, 1, 0, 1) time, k1—98 (110, 118, 126, 134, 146) sts rem for back. Beg working back and forth (see Notes).

BackNext row (WS) K1, purl to last st, k1. Next row (RS) K1 (1, 3, 1, 3, 1), *yo, k2, pass yo over 2 knit sts, k2; rep from * to last 1 (1, 3, 1, 3, 1) st(s), [yo, k2, pass yo over 2 knit sts] 0 (0, 1, 0, 1, 0) time, k1. Next row (WS) K1, purl to last st, k1. Next row (RS) K3 (3, 1, 3, 1, 3), *yo, k2, pass yo over 2 knit sts, k2; rep from * to last 3 (3, 1, 3, 1, 3) st(s), [yo, k2, pass yo over 2 knit sts] 1 (1, 0, 1, 0, 1) time, k1. Cont in patt as established until armhole measures 5¼ (5½ , 6, 6¼ , 6¾ , 7¼ )", ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) Work 34 (40, 42, 46, 48, 54) sts in patt and place these sts on

holder for right shoulder, BO 30 (30, 34, 34, 38, 38) sts, work in patt to end—34 (40, 42, 46, 48, 54) sts rem for left shoulder. Left shoulder: Work 1 WS row. At beg of RS rows, BO 2 sts 2 times—30 (36, 38, 42, 44, 50) sts rem. Work 1 WS row. BO all sts. Right shoulder: Return 34 (40, 42, 46, 48, 54) held right shoulder sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Work 2 rows in patt. At beg of WS rows, BO 2 sts 2 times—30 (36, 38, 42, 44, 50) sts rem. BO all sts.

FrontReturn 98 (110, 118, 126, 134, 146) held front sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Work as for back until armhole measures 2¾ (3, 3¼ , 3½ , 3¾ , 4¼ )", ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) Work 40 (46, 48, 52, 54, 60) sts in patt and place these sts on holder for left shoulder, BO 18 (18, 22, 22, 26, 26) sts, work in patt to end—40 (46, 48, 52, 54, 60) sts rem for right shoulder. Right shoulder: Work 1 WS row. At beg of RS rows, BO 2 sts 2 times—36 (42, 44, 48, 50, 56) sts rem. [Work 3 rows even, then BO 2 sts at beg of next RS row] 3 times—30 (36, 38, 42, 44, 50) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 6 (6¼ , 6¾ , 7, 7½ , 8)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts. Left shoulder: Return held left shoulder sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Work 2 rows in patt. At beg of WS rows, BO 2 sts 2 times—36 (42, 44, 48, 50, 56) sts rem. [Work 3 rows even, then BO 2 sts at beg of next WS row] 3 times—30 (36, 38, 42, 44, 50) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 6 (6¼ , 6¾ , 7, 7½ , 8)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts.

yo, k2, pass yo over 2 knit sts

k on RS; p on WS

pattern repeat4 st repeat

3

1

Texture

36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 57¼ )"

18 (18, 18½ , 19, 19, 19¾ )"

6 (6¼ , 6¾ , 7, 7½ , 8)"

6¼ (6¼ , 7, 7, 7¾ , 7¾ )"

5 (6, 6¼ , 7, 7¼ , 8¼ )"

3¼ (3¼ , 3½ , 3½ , 3¾ , 3¾ )"

¾ "

8 (8

, 8¾

, 8¾

, 9¼

, 9¼

)"

12¼ (13, 14¼ , 15, 15¾ , 17)"

19¼ (19¼ , 19½ , 20, 20¼ , 20¼ )"

body

078_089_KSFall15.indd 78 6/5/15 11:36 AM


Fall15 Knitscene 79

Sty

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con

Sleeves

p2 rib until piece measures 2" from CO. Change to larger dpn. Work Texture chart for 12 (10, 10, 10, 8, 6) rnds. Inc rnd K1, M1,

Rep Inc rnd every 12 (10, 8, 6, 6, 6)th rnd 1 (4, 3, 15, 16, 7) more time(s), then every 8 (6, 6, 4, 4, 4)th rnd 11 (10, 13, 3, 2, 15) times,

measures 18½ (18½ , 18½ , 18½ , 18½ , 18)" from CO, ending with Rnd 1 or 3 of chart. Work back and forth in rows for ¾ (¾ , 1, 1½ ,

F inishingSew shoulder seams. Sew sleeves into armholes, sewing side edge of top ¾ (¾ , 1,

ments. Collar: With 16" cir needle and RS facing, beg at left shoulder seam, pick up

evenly around neck edge. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in k2, p2 rib until collar measures 3¼ (3¼ , 3½ , 3½ , 3¾ , 3¾ )".

❤

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Hyannis Port PulloverCecily Glowik MacDonald

p age 4 9

Sizes 29 (31½ , 34¾ , 39, 42¼ , 45¾ , 49)" bust circumference; shown in size 31½ ", modeled with ½ " of negative ease Yarn Quince and Co. Lark (100% wool;

snieks )31 ,21 ,11 ,01 ,9 ,9( 8 ,etals •Gauge

Tools )ric( ralucric "92 dna "61 :)mm 5.4( 7 eziS •

needles and set of double-pointed needles (dpn)

)m( srekraM •)nc( eldeen elbaC •

sredloh hctitS •eldeen yrtsepaT •


Notes This sweater is worked in the round from the

top down with raglan shaping.

Yokemarker (pm) and join in the rnd. Set-up rnd *K8 (9, 10, 11, 11, 11, 11), work Cable Panel

pm for raglan, k14 (12, 10, 8, 8, 8, 8), pm for raglan; rep from * once more, using rnd m as last raglan m—37 (39, 41, 43, 43, 43,

Shape yoke: Inc rnd

Inc rnd every other rnd 3 (6, 8, 13, 17, 23, 25) more times, then every 4th rnd 11 (10, 10, 9, 7, 4, 3) times, changing to longer cir needle when necessary—222 (238, 254, 286, 302,

each for front and back, 44 (46, 48, 54, 58,

Sizes 42¼ (45¾ , 49)" only:Inc rnd

inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every other rnd 1 (2, 4)

All sizes:Work even until piece measures 7¾ (8¼ , 8½ , 9¼ , 9¾ , 10, 10½ )" from CO. Divide for body and sleeves: Next rnd Remove rnd m, work to next m, remove m, place next 44

30½ (33, 36½ , 40¾ , 44, 47½ , 50¾ )"

24¾ (27¼ , 30½ , 34¾ , 38¼ , 41½ , 45)"

29 (31½ , 34¾ , 39, 42¼ , 45¾ , 49)"

13¾ "

7½

(7½

, 8, 8

, 8½

, 8½

, 8¾

)"

7¼ "

19¾ "

10½ (11, 11

¾ , 13, 14, 15¼ ,

16)"

18"

7¾

(8¼

, 8½

, 9¼

, 9¾

, 10,

10½

)"

body

078_089_KSFall15.indd 79 6/5/15 11:36 AM


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sleeve, remove m, then using the back-

to next m, remove m, place next 44 (46, 48,

for front and back.

Bodyuntil piece measures 1" from underarm. Shape waist: Dec rnd [K1, k2tog, work to

dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every 6th rnd 3 (3, 3, 2, 2, 2, 1) more time(s), then every 4th rnd 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3) time(s)—126 (138, 154, 174, 190,

even. Inc rndInc

rnd every 6th rnd 4 more times, then every 8th rnd 2 times—154 (166, 182, 202, 218,

until piece measures 11¾ " from underarm.

SleevesWith dpn and RS facing, beg at center of underarm, pick up and knit 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4,

from underarm. Dec rnd K1, k2tog, knit to Dec rnd

every 18 (18, 18, 10, 10, 8, 8)th rnd 6 (4, 2, 10, 6, 9, 6) times, then every 0 (12, 12, 8, 8, 6, 6)th rnd 0 (3, 6, 1, 6, 6, 10) time(s)—36 (36, 38,

about 17" from underarm. Work in k1, p1 rib

F inishingCollar: With 16" cir needle and RS facing,

neck edge. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib patt until collar measures 7¼ ".

to measurements. ❤

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Couturier JacketNadya Stall ings

p age 5 0

Sizes 34¼ (39½ , 43, 45¼ , 51, 54½ )" bust circumference, buttoned; shown in size 34¼ ", modeled with 2¼ " of positive easeYarn Superwash (100% superwash wool; 220 yd [200 m]/100 g): • #749 smoke heather, 5 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) skeinsGaugemedium-size needles

Tools seldeen )mm 57.3( 5 eziS •

seldeen )mm 4( 6 eziS •seldeen )mm 5.4( 7 eziS •

)01 ,01 ,01 ,01 ,01( 9 • 7⁄8" buttonssredloh hctitS •

eldeen yrtsepaT •

Notes This jacket is worked back and forth in pieces

from the bottom up and seamed.If the increases on Rows 5 and 11 of the Tex-

tured Stitch chart are part of the shaping, treat the increase symbol as one

For the chain selvedge, always slip the

unless otherwise noted.

StitchesSeed Stitch:Row 1

end.Rep Row 1 for patt.

3-stitch One-row Buttonhole:

needle, turn. Using the cable method,

buttonhole complete.

I-cord BO:

needle; rep from *.

Back

medium-size needles. Work Rows 1–8 of Textured St chart. Shape waist: Dec row

Dec row every 8th row 1 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3) more time(s), then every 6th row 4 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times—63

even, ending with a WS row. Inc row (RS)

Inc row every 12th row

Work even until piece measures 14½ (15, 15, 15, 15, 15)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Shape armholes:

Sizes 45¼ (51, 54½ )" only:Dec row

knit

purl

sl 2 sts onto cn and hold in back, k2, k2 from cn

sl 2 sts onto cn and hold in front, k2, k2 from cn

7

5

3

1

21 sts

Cable Panel

078_089_KSFall15.indd 80 6/5/15 11:36 AM

In Knitting Bag of Tricks, you will learn:

• Quick ways to adjust your knitting for a polished look• Expert tips and tricks for taking correct measurements• How to knit buttonholes• An elastic, stretchy cast-on method great for socks and neckholes• And more!

Find these workshops on DVD or instantly download the videos at InterweaveStore.com

Join expert knitter Patty Lyons for these knitting workshops

In Advanced Knitting Fixes, you will learn: • Clever fi xes for cables, lace, shaping, working in the round, colorwork, and more • Knitting corrections for both on the needles and even after you bind off• How to correct missing increases, decreases, miscrossed cables, loose ladders on double-point needles• And much more!

In An Intoduction to Color Knitting, you will learn:

• How to manage 3 colors at once• A seamless rib stitch• Slip stitch colorwork• How to add decorative two-color, textural knitting detail to your work• And more!

081_KSFall15.indd 81 6/1/15 4:07 PM


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3 sts, k2tog, p1—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every other row 1 (3, 5) more time(s)—71 (73, 73) sts rem. All sizes:Work even until armhole measures 7 (73/4, 81/4, 9, 9, 91/2)", ending with a WS row. Shape shoulders: BO 14 (16, 18, 18, 18, 18) sts at beg of next 2 rows—29 (33, 33, 35, 37, 37) sts rem. Place sts on holder.

Left FrontWith largest needles, CO 35 (41, 45, 47, 53, 57) sts. Work in Seed st for 4 rows, ending with a WS row. Change to medium-size needles. Work Rows 1–8 of Textured St chart. Shape waist: Dec row (RS) Sl 1, ssk, work in patt to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every 8th row 1 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3) more time(s), then every 6th row 4 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times—29 (35, 39, 41, 47, 51) sts rem. Work 5 rows even, ending with a WS row. Inc row (RS) Sl 1, M1, work in patt to end—1 st inc’d. Rep Inc row every 12th row 3 more times—33 (39, 43, 45, 51, 55) sts. Work even until piece measures 141/2 (15, 15, 15, 15, 15)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Shape armhole: At beg of RS rows, BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 7) sts once, then BO 3 sts once, then BO 2 sts 0 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2) time(s)—26 (30, 33, 35, 38, 41) sts rem. Sizes 451/4 (51, 541/2)" only:Work 1 WS row even. Dec row (RS) Sl 1, ssk, work in patt to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every other row 1 (3, 5) more time(s)—33 (34, 35) sts rem. All sizes:Work even until armhole measures 4 (43/4, 51/4, 6, 6, 61/2)", ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) Work in patt to last 5 (6, 6, 6, 7, 7) sts, place rem sts on holder—21 (24, 27, 27, 27, 28) sts rem. Work 1 WS row even. Next row (RS) Work in patt to last 3 (4, 4, 4, 6, 6) sts, place rem sts on holder—18 (20, 23, 23, 21, 22) sts rem. Work even for 3 (3, 3, 3, 1, 1) row(s). Dec row (RS) Sl 1, work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog,

p1—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every other row 3 (3, 4, 2, 2, 3) more times—14 (16, 18, 18, 18, 18) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 7 (73/4, 81/4, 9, 9, 91/2)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts.

Right FrontWith largest needles, CO 35 (41, 45, 47, 53, 57) sts. Work in Seed st for 4 rows, ending with a WS row. Change to medium-size needles. Work Rows 1–8 of Textured St chart. Shape waist: Dec row (RS) Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, p1—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every 8th row 1 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3) more time(s), then every 6th row 4 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times—29 (35, 39, 41, 47, 51) sts rem. Work 5 rows even, ending with a WS row. Inc row (RS) Work in patt to last st, M1, p1—1 st inc’d. Rep Inc row every 12th row 3 more times—33 (39, 43, 45, 51, 55) sts. Work even until piece measures 141/2 (15, 15, 15, 15, 15)" from CO, ending with a RS row. Shape armhole: At beg of WS rows, BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 7) sts once, then BO 3 sts once, then BO 2 sts 0 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2) time(s)—26 (30, 33, 35, 38, 41) sts rem. Sizes 451/4 (51, 541/2)" only:Dec row (RS) Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, p1—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every other row 1 (3, 5) more time(s)—33 (34, 35) sts rem. All sizes:Work even until armhole measures 4 (43/4, 51/4, 6, 6, 61/2)", ending with a RS row. Shape neck: Next row (WS) Work in patt to last 5 (6, 6, 6, 7, 7) sts, place rem sts on holder—21 (24, 27, 27, 27, 28) sts rem. Work 1 RS row even. Next row (WS) Work in patt to last 3 (4, 4, 4, 6, 6) sts, place rem sts on holder—18 (20, 23, 23, 21, 22) sts rem. Work even for 4 (4, 4, 4, 2, 2) rows. Dec row (RS) Sl 1, ssk, work in patt to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every other row 3 (3, 4, 2, 2, 3) more times—14 (16, 18, 18, 18, 18) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 7 (73/4, 81/4, 9, 9, 91/2)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts.

SleevesWith largest needles, CO 39 (39, 45, 51, 51, 51) sts. Work in Seed st for 10 rows, ending with a WS row. Change to medium-size needles. Work in St st for 4 rows. Work Rows 1–8 (1–8, 1–8, 1–8, 1–8, 1–4) of Textured St chart. Inc row (RS) Sl 1, M1, work in patt to last st, M1, p1—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every 8 (6, 6, 4, 4, 4)th row 3 (5, 8, 3, 9, 13) more times, then every 10 (8, 8, 6, 6, 6)th row 2 (2, 0, 6, 2, 0) times—51 (55, 63, 71, 75, 79) sts. Work even until piece measures 111/2 (113/4, 121/4, 121/4, 121/4, 121/4)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Shape cap: BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 7) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 3 sts at beg of foll 2 rows, then BO 2 sts at beg of foll 0 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4) rows—37 (37, 43, 51, 49, 51) sts rem. Work 6 rows even. Dec row (RS) Sl 1, ssk, work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, p1—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 6 (7, 8, 9, 8, 10) more times—23 (21, 25, 31, 31, 29) sts rem.

171/2 (201/2, 213/4, 231/4, 26, 271/2)"

81/4 (91/2, 101/2, 11, 121/2, 131/2)"

143/4 (171/2, 19, 201/2, 231/4, 243/4)"

163/4 (191/2, 21, 221/4, 25, 261/2)"

141/2 (15, 15, 15, 15, 15)"

7 (73/4, 81/4, 9, 9, 91/2)"

31/4 (33/4, 41/4, 41/4, 41/4, 41/4)"

63/4 (73/4, 73/4, 81/4, 83/4, 83/4)"

3"

right

frontback

91/4 (91/4, 101/2, 12, 12, 12)"

111/2

(113/4

, 121/4

, 121/4

, 121/4

, 121/4

)"

33/4 (4

1/4, 4

1/2, 4

3/4, 4

3/4, 5

)"

21/2 (21/2, 3, 31/2, 4, 4)"

12 (1

3, 1

43/4, 1

63/4, 1

71/2, 1

81/2)"

sleeve

k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS

pattern repeat

sl 1 pwise wyb

k3tog

(k1, yo, k1) in same st

k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS

pattern repeat

sl 1 pwise wyb

k3tog

(k1, yo, k1) in same st

6 st repeat

11

9

7

5

3

1

Textured St

078_089_KSFall15.indd 82 6/5/15 11:36 AM

Fall15 Knitscene 83

WITH KATE ATHERLEY

Knit your best fitting socks

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WITH THIS 129-MINUTE VIDEO WORKSHOP, YOU WILL:

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Create beautiful,

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083_KSFall15.indd 83 6/1/15 4:07 PM



84 knitscene.com

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at beg of next 6 (2, 6, 2, 4, 6) rows, then

F inishingBlock pieces to measurements. Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeves into arm-holes. Sew side seams. Buttonband: With largest needles and RS facing, pick up and

Button-hole band: With largest needles and RS facing, pick up and knit 77 (83, 85, 87, 87,

Next rowpatt, [work 3-st one-row buttonhole (see

(6, 6, 6, 6, 6) times, work 3-st one-row

Collar: With smallest needles and RS

buttonhole band, knit 8 (10, 10, 10, 13, 13)

9 rows, ending with a WS row. Next row

buttonhole, work in patt to end. Change to

20 more rows. Next rowpatt, work 3-stitch one-row buttonhole,

using the I-cord method (see Stitches). Back button tab: With largest needles,

measures 5¼ (6, 6¾ , 7¼ , 7½ , 7¾ )" from CO; do not turn after last row. Rotate work and with medium-size needles, pick up and

I-cord method. Weave in ends. Sew buttons to left front band and collar opposite

tab using photo as a guide. Attach back tab in center back at natural waist line of jacket. ❤

Brown Sheep Company Nature Spun Fingering

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Oddity ScarfAnnie Wat ts

p age 5 2

Size About 85" long and 5" wide at centerYarn Brown Sheep Company Nature Spun Fingering (100% wool; 310 yd [283 m]/50 g): • #730F natural (MC), 2 skeins• #137F cobalt blue (A), 1 skein• #N46F red fox (B), 1 skeinGaugeTools

eldeen )ric( ralucric "04 :)mm 5.3( 4 eziS •)m( srekraM •sredloh hctitS •

eldeen yrtsepaT •

Notes This scarf is worked from the top down, back

and forth in rows using the intarsia

block of color, and twist yarns at each color change to avoid holes.

The increases along the top edge of the scarf are worked knitwise on both the wrong side and right side.

A circular needle is used to accommodate

ScarfCenter section:

last row. Rotate work and pick up and knit

Row 1 (WS) P3, M1R (see Notes), place marker

Row 2

Row 3

Row 4

Rep last 2 rows 21 more times, then work

Left section: Row 1

in left section.Row 2

Row 3 K3, M1R, knit to m, remove m, turn—

Row 4

Row 5 (RS) K3, M1R, knit to m, remove m,

Row 6

Row 7 (RS) K3, M1R, knit to m, remove m,

Row 8

Rep last 2 rows 13 more times, then work Next row

pwise wyf, purl to end. Break yarn. Right section:and join MC.Row 1

in right section.Row 2

Row 3 P3, M1R, purl to m, remove m, turn—

Row 4

Rep last 2 rows 68 more times, removing m

Bottom edge: Row 1 (WS) P3, M1R, p48; join A, purl to last

Row 2end of A section; join A, k1; with MC, knit

Row 3 With MC, p3, M1R, purl to end of MC section; with A, p1; with B, knit to last

Row 4 With B, k3, M1R, knit to end of B sec-

Row 5 With MC, p3, M1R, purl to end of MC section; with A, p1; with B, knit to last

078_089_KSFall15.indd 84 6/5/15 11:36 AM

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86 knitscene.com

Style Icon

Row 6rem after BO); with A, k1; with MC, knit

First point:Row 7 (WS) With MC, p3, M1R, purl to end of

inc’d.Row 8 (RS) With B, k5; with A, k1; with MC,

Break A. Row 11 With MC, p3, M1R, p34; rejoin A, p25,

Row 12 With B, k29; rejoin A, k1; with MC,

Row 13 With MC, p3, M1R, purl to end of MC

Row 14 With B, k29; with A, k1; with MC, knit

Rows 15–18

Row 19 With MC, p3, M1R, purl to end of MC section; with A, p1; with B, k28,

Row 20

Second point:Row 21 With MC, p3, M1R, purl to end of MC


Rows 23 and 24Break A.Row 25 With MC, p3, M1R, p19; rejoin A, p30,

Row 26 With B, k36; rejoin A, k1; with MC,

Row 27 With MC, p3, M1R, purl to end of MC


Rows 29–36

Row 37 With MC, p3, M1R, purl to end of MC section; with A, p1; with B, k35,

Row 38

Third point: Row 39 With MC, p3, M1R, purl to end of MC

section; with A, p1; with B, k9—1 st inc’d.Row 40 With B, k9; with A, k1; with MC, knit

Rows 41 and 42Break A and MC. Row 43 Rejoin A, p3, M1R, p37; with B,

Break A and cont with B only.Row 44Row 45Work short-rows as foll:Short-row 1 (RS) K46, turn.

Short-row 2 and all WS short-rows wyf, knit to end.

Short-row 3 K40, turn.Short-row 5 K34, turn.Short-row 7 K28, turn.Short-row 9 K22, turn.Short-row 11 K16, turn.Short-row 13 K10, turn.Short-row 15 K4, turn.Short-row 16


Classic Elite Yarns Liberty Wool Light

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Brigitte HeadbandAvril Lang

p age 5 3

Sizes 18" circumference and 7" wideYarn Classic Elite Yarns Liberty Wool Light (100% washable wool; 200 yd [183 m]/50 g): • #6646 deep teal (MC), 1 skein • #6697 dusty teal (CC), 1 skeinGaugeTools

eldeen )ric( ralucric "21 :)mm 5.3( 4 eziS •)m( rekraM •

• Tapestry needle


Notes dna htrof dna kcab dekrow si dnabdaeh sihT

the ends are sewn together. Each short row section forms two “triangles.”

The �rst triangle begins with a right side row and is worked by knitting every row. The second triangle begins with a wrong side row and is worked by purling every row. Wind a second ball of yarn or work from both ends of a center pull ball.

A circular needle is used to make it easier to work from either end of the needle.

HeadbandFirst

triangle: With CC, knit 2 rows. With MC,

Short-row 1turn.

Short-rows 2, 6, 10, and 14 (WS) With CC, knit to end.

Short-row 3Short-rows 4, 8, and 12 With MC, knit to end.Short-row 5Short-row 7Short-row 9 With CC, k7, knit wrap tog with

Short-row 11 With MC, k14, knit wrap tog

Short-row 13 With CC, k21, knit wrap tog with

Short-row 15 With MC, k28, knit wrap tog

With MC, knit 1 WS row. With CC, knit

rejoin yarn as needed. Second triangle:Short-row 1

turn. Short-rows 2, 6, 10, and 14 (RS) With CC, purl

to end.Short-row 3Short-rows 4, 8, and 12 With MC, purl to end.Short-row 5Short-row 7Short-row 9 With CC, p7, purl wrap tog with

Short-row 11 With MC, p14, purl wrap tog

Short-row 13 With CC, p21, purl wrap tog with

Short-row 15 With MC, p28, purl wrap tog

With MC, purl 1 RS row. Do not turn.

rejoin yarn as needed. Rep from * 7 more times, ending last rep with Short-row 15 of

F inishingSew ends tog. Edging: With MC and RS

around edge. Place marker and join in the

078_089_KSFall15.indd 86 6/5/15 11:36 AM


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in patt. Rep for opposite edge. Weave in ends. Block. ❤

A lchemy Kosmos

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Virginie PulloverMichele Wang

p age 5 4

Sizes 44¼ (47½ , 50¾ , 53¾ , 56, 59¼ )" bust circumference; shown in size 47½ ", modeled with 15½ " of positive easeYarn Alchemy Kosmos (30% silk,

[109 m]/45 g): • #203M birch, 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 9) skeins Gaugelarger needles Tools

needleseldeen )mm 5.6( ½01 eziS •

)m( srekraM •m elbavomeR •redloh hctitS •

eldeen yrtsepaT •


Notes This sweater is worked back and forth from

the bottom up in pieces and seamed.

�nished bust measurement.

StitchesK1, P1 Rib:Row 1Rep Row 1 for patt.

Back

Stitches) until piece measures 3" from CO, ending with a WS row. Change to larger needles. Dec row (RS) K2 (3, 4, 5, 3, 4), [k2tog, k1] 33 (35, 37, 39, 43, 45) times, k1 (2, 3, 4, 2,

Next row Next row (RS) Knit.

Work 1 more WS row. Inc row (RS) K3, M1L,

Inc row every 8th row 7 more times—85 (91,

piece measures about 16¾ " from CO. Place removable m at each edge to mark underarm. Shape armholes: Inc row (RS) K3, M1L, knit

Inc row every 4 (4, 4, 4, 6, 6)th row 6 more

even until armhole measures 6½ (7, 7½ , 8, 8½ , 9)" from m, ending with a WS row. Shape shoulders and neck: Next row

Left shoulder: Note: Shoulder and neck are shaped simultaneously; read the foll section all the way through before proceeding. At

1, 3, 1, 1) time(s). At the same time, at beg of

Right shoulder: Return 43 (45, 48, 51, 52, 55) held

facing, rejoin yarn. At beg of WS rows,

4 (3, 3, 2, 2, 1) time(s). At the same time, at beg

FrontWork as for back to underarm, ending with a WS row. Note: Armhole, neck, and shoulder are shaped simultaneously; read the foll section all the way through before proceeding. Place removable m at each armhole edge to mark underarm. Mark

at the same time, when armhole measures 0 (0, ½ , 1, 1½ , 2)", ending with a WS row, shape neck as foll: Next row (RS) Work to

Note: Both sides of neck shaping are worked simultaneously, each with its own ball of yarn; a semicolon between pattern instructions separates the 2 sides. Work 1 WS row. Neck dec row 1before neck edge, [ssk, k2] 2 times; [k2,

dec’d each side. Work 1 WS row. Rep Neck

18½ (20, 21½ , 23¼ , 24¼ , 25¾ )"

16¾ "

6½ (7, 7½ , 8, 8½ , 9)"

2¾ "

8½ (9, 9¾ , 10½ , 11, 11½ )"

9¼ (9¾ , 9¾ , 10½ , 10½ , 11)"

9¼ (9¾ , 9¾ , 9¾ , 9¾ , 9¾ )"

22¾ (24¼ , 25¾ , 27½ , 28½ , 30¼ )"front & back

8 (8, 8½ , 9, 9½ , 10¼ )"

12 (1

2, 1

2½ ,

12½

, 1

3, 1

3)" 12¾ (13¾ , 15, 16, 17, 18¼ )"

sleeve

078_089_KSFall15.indd 88 6/5/15 11:36 AM


TAKE YOURWITH YOUfavorite issues

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Fall15 Knitscene 91

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Through clever planning and some simple techniques, projects are shaped and joined during knitting—all without sacrificing the pretty details. No-Sew Knits off ers 20 garments that combine easy construction techniques and on-trend comfortable styling for everyday wear. While many sweaters are based on simple raglan and yoke constructions, author Kristen takes the opportunity to introduce you to a variety of other easier-than-they-seem techniques, while keeping the patterns approachable for advanced beginners. Chapters are focused around theelements of stitch patterns, cables, and lace. The resulting pieces are beautifully constructed garments that boast eye-catching details!

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http://www.interweavestore.com/no-sew-knits

http://www.interweavestore.com/no-sew-knits

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Shop

Shop

ListingsShop Often—Shop Your Local Retailer!

A l a s k a

Knitty Stash the Alaskan Yarn Company—Homerwww.Knittystash.comwww.squareup.com/market/commuknitty-stashWe carry yarns for knitting and crochet, roving for spinning and notions. Also the only commercially available 100% Alaskan Grown wool in the state and hand painted yarns.3581 B Main St. (physical address) (907) 299-0601

The Rookery—Kodiakwww.therookeryfibershop.blogspot.comKindle your fiber fascination. We carry quality yarns, fabrics, threads, buttons and other fiber art supplies for the fiber enthusiast.104 Center Ave., Suite 100B (907) 486-0052

C a l i f o r n i a

A Yarn Less Raveled—Danvillewww.ayarnlessraveled.comEverything you need for your knit/crochet projects– beautiful yarns, patterns, nee-dles, notions, and support to make your project a success. Classes of all levels!730 Camino Ramon, Suite 186 (925) 263-2661

Uncommon Threads—Los Altoswww.uncommonthreadsyarn.comBeautiful yarns from around the world.293 State St. (650) 941-1815

Once Around—Mill Valleywww.oncearound.comThe felting, stamping, embroidery, fabric-painting, wreath-making, embossing, scrapbooking, decoupage, candle-crafting, bookbinding, glitter, sewing, knitting and, more . . . ARTS and CRAFTS STORE.352 Miller Ave. (415) 389-1667

C O L O R A D O

My Sister Knits—Fort Collinswww.mysisterknits.comLocally owned and locally loved. Wel-come all knitters, My Sister Knits provides a welcoming atmosphere while providing the best in yarns, tools and staff.1408 W. Mountain Ave. 970-407-1461

The Recycled Lamb—Goldenwww.recycledlamb.comThe Recycled Lamb has been serving the needs of knitters and crocheters for over 30 years. We carry an extensive selection of yarn and fiber, books and patterns, and you'll love our friendly, knowledgeable staff!2081 Youngfield St. (303) 234-9337

D i s t r i c t o f C o l u m b i a

Looped Yarn Works—Washington, D.C.www.loopedyarnworks.comA friendly, comfortable, and warm shop with a selection of beautiful yarns and notions. Great classes, workshops, knit-alongs, and knit nights.1732 Connecticut Ave. NW #200 (202) 714-5667

F l o r i d a

Criativity—Largowww.criativitystore.comFantastic selection of yarns from lace weight to chunky. Needles and more. Spinning supplies including our own alpaca fiber. 720 9th Ave., SW (727) 584-4191

I d a h o

Knit-n-Crochet—Coeur d’ Alene www.knit-n-crochet.com Friendly service and inviting atmo-sphere. Come in and see, or shop online, our large selection of yarn, nee-dles, and accessories. 600 W. Kathleen Ave. #30 (208) 676-YARN (9276)

Alpaca Direct—Haydenwww.AlpacaDirect.comHuge selection of luxury yarn, roving, and knitting supplies. Classes and sup-port.1016 W. Hayden Ave. (208) 209-7079 (888) 306-0111

I l l i n o i s

Wool, Warp & Wheel—Richmondwww.woolwarpandwheel.comSpinning, weaving, and knitting supplies and equipment. Tue-Fri 7pm–9:00pm, Sat-Sun 10-5.5605 Mill St. (815) 678-4063

I n d i a n a

Knitting Off Broadway—Fort Waynewww.knittingoffbroadway.comLocated in a restored 1890’s building, this full-service yarn store specializes in unique and hard-to-find fibers.1309 Broadway (260) 422-YARN

M a r y l a n d

Knitters Nest—Eldersburgwww.knittersnestyarnshop.comWe are a locally owned shop with a wide selection of fine yarns & sup-plies. We offer knitting and crochet classes, and would love for you to drop in and join us.1431 Liberty Road (410) 549-0709

M a s s a c h u s e t t s

Stitch House—Dorchesterwww.stitchhousedorchester.comVery cool place to buy yarn, learn to knit, sew, crochet, or have a party.846 Dorchester Ave. (617) 265-8013

Hub Mills Yarn Store—North Billericawww.hubmillsstore.comAn outlet for discontinued Classic Elite Yarns and a full-service yarn shop carrying many fine yarns.16 Esquire Rd. Unit 2 (978) 408-2176

M i c h i g a n

Ewe-nique Knits—Royal Oakwww.ewe-niqueknits.comEwe-nique Knits, where unique knits are created. We cater to fiber lovers of all kinds offering a vast array of yarn & supplies. 515 S. Lafayette (248) 584-3001

M i n n e s o t a

Double Ewe Yarn Shop—Circle Pineswww.double-ewe-yarn.comQuality yarns, supplies and classes in a cozy, comfortable atmosphere. Come play with us!9205 Lexington Ave. N., #3 (763) 795-9276

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Yarn

Yarn

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Shop Often—Shop Your Local Retailer!Northfield Yarn—Northfieldwww.northfieldyarn.comOffering a wide selection of yarn, tools, and inspiration for knitters and crochet-ers in historic downtown Northfield, MN314 Division St. S. (507) 645-1330

N e w H a m p s h i r e

Harrisville Designs Knitting and Weaving Center—Harrisvillewww.harrisville.comYarns, Looms and Friendly Loom Prod-ucts made by Harrisville Designs. Come visit our shop. We have our full product line on display, plus spinning equipment, fibers, yarns, books. Classes.4 Mill Alley (603) 827-3996

N e w J e r s e y

Lion Brand Yarn Outlet—Carlstadtwww.LionBrand.com/outlet.html 50% off first quality discontinued col-ors and weekly surprise specials up to 75% off.140 Kero Rd. (201) 939-0611

Woolbearers—Mount Hollywww.woolbearers.comFull-service knitting, spinning, weaving, and dyeing shop specializing in hand-painted fiber and yarns, spinning, and weaving equipment.90 High St. (609) 914-0003

FiberArts Café—Millvillewww.fiberartscafe.comFiberArts Café, yarns, tools, publica-tions, classes & workshops. Group gather Wed 1-7 p.m. Open Tuesday–Saturday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Sunday noon to 6 p.m.501 N. High Street, Suite L (856) 669-1131

N e w M e x i c o

The Yarn Store at Nob Hill—Albuquerquewww.theyarnstoreatnobhill.comJoin us for Open Knitting anytime during store hours! Quality yarns, tools, books, accessories, and unique local items.120 Amherst Dr. NE (505) 717-1535

N e w Y o r k

Yarn Culture—Fairportwww.yarnculture.comArtisan yarn from around the world including Rosy Green Wool, The Uncommon Thread, Eden Cottage Yarns, Woolfolk and more.1387 Fairport Road, Suite 885 (585) 678-4894

Yarn Cupboard—Jamesvillewww.yarncupboard.comConveniently located 10 minutes from the center of Syracuse. Yarns, fiber, spin-ning wheels, looms, patterns/books, notions, buttons, and accessories.6487 E. Seneca Tpk. (315) 399-5148

Lion Brand Yarn Studio—New Yorkwww.lionbrandyarnstudio.comWide selection of Lion Brand yarns, free knit and crochet demonstrations, classes, and special events.34 W. 15th St. (212) 243-9070

O r e g o n

Knot Another Hat—Hood Riverwww.knotanotherhat.comYour source for everything hip and knit–worthy! Find fine yarns, needles, accessories, gifts, and more!16 Oak St., Ste. 202 (541) 308-0002

P e n n s y l v a n i a

Gosh Yarn It!—Kingstonwww.goshyarnitshop.comA beautiful yarn boutique in Northeast-ern PA. Visit us for fine yarn, patterns, notions, and knitting & crochet classes. 303 Market St. (570) 287-9999

Natural Stitches—Pittsburghwww.naturalstitches.comBest selection of natural fibers in Pittsburgh. Knowledgeable staff. Open 7 days. Evenings, too! 6401 Penn Ave. (412) 441-4410

T e n n e s s e e

Smoky Mountain Spinnery—Gatlinburgwww.smokymountainspinnery.comCome shop in our comfortable sur-roundings. Everything for spinning, weaving, knitting, crocheting, and nee-dlefelting. Antiques and gifts, too.466 Brookside Village Wy., Ste. 8 (865) 436-9080

T e x a s

WC Mercantile—Navasotawww.wcmercantile.com“The BEST little Wool shop in Texas!” Featuring natural fibers for knitting and spinning. Lots of local Texas yarns, too!201 E. Washington Ave. (936) 825-3378

U t a h

Wasatch and Wool Yarns—Park Citywww.wasatchandwool.comAn intimate, boutique experience for locals and visitors who are knitting and fiber enthusiasts. We specialize in high quality yarns from around the world.1635 West Redstone Center Dr. G130 (435) 575-0999

Do you want to drive more foot traffic to your store?

Try a Shop Directory Listing.

Contact Tina Hickman at 970-613-4697 or [email protected]

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Fall15 Knitscene 95

YarnYarnYarn

Shop

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ListingsShop Often—Shop Your Local Retailer!

The Web Connection

Online Store

Abundant Yarn Onlinewww.abundant-yarn.com

(866) 873-0580100 luscious yarn lines

User friendly website and service. Try us!

Shops/Mail Order

Woobee KnitShopwww.woobeeknitshop.net

(307) 760-2092Products include Brown Sheep, Waver-ly, Jean Greenhowe, Addi, and Skacel.

Yarns

Gypsy Girl Creationswww.stonebarnfibers.com

(815) [email protected]

An ever changing kaleidoscope of unique colors.

Lanaknits Designs Hemp for Knitting

www.hempforknitting.com(888) 301-0011

Providing luxury hemp and hemp blend yarns & lots of designer patterns.

Wool2Dye4www.Wool2Dye4.com

[email protected] line of undyed yarns for

hand-dye artists.

Brown Sheep Company. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

Cascade Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2, 7

Cast-Off Chemo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

Classic Elite Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67

Crystaletts/Horsman Ltd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Della Q . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91

Dream Weaver Yarns LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91

Elissa’s Creative Warehouse . . . . . . . . . . . 91

Eucalan Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63

Green Mountain Spinnery . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77

Halcyon Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69

Harrisville Designs Inc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69

Irish Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67

Interweave . . . . . . 27, 29, 39, 45, 81, 83, 85, 87, 89, 90, 91, 92, C3

Jimmy Beans Wool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Kelbourne Woolens (The Fibre Co) . . . . . . 41

Knitters Pride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69

Knitting Pure and Simple . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77

Lion Brand Yarn Co . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

LoveKnitting.com. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4

Mango Moon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63

Noni Designs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

Plymouth Yarn Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

Skacel Collection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

Southeastern Animal Fiber Fair . . . . . . . . . 91

Spinrite Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Westing Bridge LLC/ChiaoGoo . . . . . . . . . 67

Wool 2 Dye 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91

YarnBox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

advertisers’ index

V e r m o n t

Northeast Fiber Arts Center—Willistonwww.northeastfiberarts.comThe candy store for knitters, felters and spinners. Featuring natural fibers, hand-painted & Vermont raised yarns! Plus we stock gobs of felting fibers, needle felting kits, looms, wheels & offer oodles of inspiration.7531 Williston Road (802) 288-8081

V i r g i n i a

fibre spaceTM—Alexandriawww.fibrespace.comVisit our retro styled shop in historic Alexandria, VA.1219 King St. (703) 664-0344

Yarn Cloud—Occoquan“where nature meets imagination”www.yarncloud.comYarn Cloud specializes in yummy knit-ting, crochet & tatting yarns, notions and classes. NEW LOCATION!204 Washington St. (703) 763-3285

The Yarn Club, Inc.—Virginia Beachwww.yarnclubknits.comAn extravagant selection of hand dyed yarns and fibers for your knitting, crochet, and spinning delights.240 Mustang Trail, Suite 8 (757) 486-5648 (KNIT)

W a s h i n g t o n

NW Handspun Yarns—Bellinghamwww.NWHandspunYarns.comQuality yarns, books, equipment, supplies for the knitter, spinner, and weaver. Classes and gifts. Open Tuesday–Sunday.1401 Commercial St. (360) 738-0167

Debbie Macomber’s A Good Yarn Shop—Port Orchardwww.agoodyarnshop.comWe carry a wide range of yarn, books, notions, and offer classes for all levels of knitting and crochet.1140 Bethel Ave., Suite 101 (360) 876-0377

Paradise Fibers—Spokanewww.paradisefibers.netTerrific selection of wool yarn, knitting needles, wheels, and looms. Order online or stop in. Same-day shipping!225 W. Indiana Ave. (509) 536-7746

W i s c o n s i n

The Dragonfly Yarn Shop—Janesvillewww.dragonflyyarnshop.comWool and luxury fibers. Addi and Crys-tal Palace needles. Lessons by the hour. Home of the Pirouette!1327 N. Wright Rd., Ste. 5A (608) 757-9228

C l a s s i f i e d s

E v e n t sSALIDA FIBER FESTIVAL. Salida, Colo-rado, September 12-13. Fiber vendors, demonstrations, classes, spin-in, and hands-on activities in this beautiful moun-tain art town. Featured workshops with Ann Budd. For more information see: www.salidafiberfestival.org.

Y a r n sWWW.WOOL2DYE4.COM Exclusive line of undyed yarns for hand-dyers. Make your work stand out! Wholesale inquiries welcome. [email protected].

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>>>>>>>>>> blogspotting

Q How long have you been blogging?

A I think I started with a blog called Tonigirl in 2004. It was right about the time I started knitting. It’s too bad that blog has disappeared into cyberspace, because there was a pretty awesome “new knitter” post where I was trying to � gure out why my acrylic project didn’t felt. (Whoops!)

Q What inspired you to start a blog?

A Stitch ’n Bitch Nation by Debbie Stoller (Workman Publishing Group, 2004). That book made me want to connect with other knitters, since the only knitters I knew were my mom and grandma—at least until I dragged my friends over and taught them to knit!

Q What types of projects do you like to knit and blog?

A I post every project that I can on my blog! It’s frustrating when I’m working on a book because I can’t share any projects. All my posts end up being about my dogs and aerial silks. I’ll knit anything: small projects I can keep in my bag when I’m running around, larger projects on the needles in my living room, and one lace or colorwork pattern in my of� ce, where I can concentrate.

Q Which post has been your favorite to write so far?

A I would have to say the post where I opened up about how anxious I get in public about speaking. I was really unsure about whether I wanted to post something that personal, but I also wanted people to know that, despite outward appearances, I’m actually pain-fully shy. It opened up a great conversa-tion on my blog and social media, and I received many emails from people who were too shy to post anything in public, but wanted to share their stories about public anxiety.

Q Name one blog you love to read and share why you love it.

A I think this is the single hardest question you could have asked me! I lurk on so many blogs, including John Scalzi’s Whatever, Dances With Wool, Trillian Stars, Georgia Bean (the � rst knitting blog I ever read!), not to mention the times I just end up disappearing down the Internet rabbit hole. I love see-ing well-done blogs and wondering how the authors have the time!

Twitter I @joanofdarkknitsRavelry I JoanofDark

Blogger and lover of all things ge eky, Joan of Dark—derby name and publishing pseudonym of Toni Carr—has been on our blogroll for a long time. Her third book, Geek Knits, has just been released by St. Martin’s Griffin Press. Geek Knits is a celebration of iconic “geek culture,” featur-ing incredible projects modeled by faces familiar to the geeks among us. Read more from Joan at www.joanofdark.com.

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Knitscene Fall 2015

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