May 2010 // Issue *3

M A G A Z I N E

02

P.06 INTERVIEW: GAV COLMANWe caught up with the man who successfully de-fended his Open World title...

contents:

03

P.6 NiasScoring one of the Worlds best rights from the perspective of Chayne and Troy Simpson. Prepare to be blown away...

P.14 Baja Maana?Brad Colwell takes a trip South of the Border with the one and only Orange Kneeboarder.

P.20 SHAPERS: Dale PonsfordThe kneeboard shaper on his own path of evolution gives an insight in to his creations.

P.26 PorthlevenThis past winter rocked the South coast of Cornwall. The kneelo crew were on it and it also threw up some other interesting perspectives on what is considered by some to be Englands best wave.

Graphic Design: Bryn DampneyEditorial: Duncan Jones, Bryn DampneyContributing Photographers:Troy Simpson www.troysimpsonphoto.comAdam Waka WilliamsHannah JonesElizabeth Akana www.hawaiianlines.comDale PonsfordChris CockettBob GoveBrad ColwellMike VosJenny Mehlow

Contributing writer: Brad ColwellCover/Contents pics: Troy SimpsonAdvertising Contact:Bryn Dampneybryn@kneelo.orgSubmissions and Contributions Contact:Bryn Dampney/Duncan Jonesbryn@kneelo.orgduncan@kneelo.orgwww.kernowkneelo.co.ukwww.kneelo.orgBIG THANKS TO ALL!!

Cover shot and left: Chayne Simpson,

locked and loaded at Nias.

PICS: Troy Simpson

Issue 3, a lot later than hoped but with good reason! The arrival of my baby daughter, Elsie, last September has been the most mind bending incredible experience of my life

so far and everything else has taken a bit of a back seat...

The show must go on however; as you will see in

these pages some of the Worlds best have again kindly

contributed their amazing images and time to keep this little

publication moving forward and get the best in Kneeboarding

out their for all to see.

From the most stunning image and surfing combination from

Chayne and Troy Simpson in Nias to our own UK shores via

an Australian shaper whos followed his own path and an ex-

kneelo who still rides the tube on his knees, its all here and

more and I hope more than anything the wait was worth it.

For the first time this issue will be available in print. It will

be pretty limited in numbers and we still need to work out

the logistics but we feel its a worth while path to follow in

documenting our way of riding waves. Of course there will

have to be a cost involved but it will still be available to all for

free in pdf format as this was part of the original ethos.

Your feedback and comments are always appreciated

and help us to move things forward in a positive light for

Kneeboarders everywhere. Pass it on to all riders of surf craft

and see if they pick up on the stoke.

If talks Ive had come to fruition, when we make it to number

4 the bar should rise again...

Until next time, enjoy.

The Kneelo Mag Crew.

04

Darren Akana clearing a

path through the crowd.

PIC: Elizabeth Akana

05

Hey Dunc... I just discovered that the last time I typed this out it did not get sent, so here I go again. F**kin Computers!!!

Dunc: We heard through the kneelo grapevine that

you guys had been on a trip and scored. How was

Nias?

Chayne: Nias was insane mate. Up there with the

best waves Ive ever surfed. Id recommend the trip

to anyone... Just let me know if youre going though

cause Ill come too - ha. Its an absolute mission to

get to even from Australia but well worth it if its on.

Dunc: You travel a lot with your brother. Must be good

to have a travel buddy you know well. Especially one

whos a great water photographer?

Chayne: Troys great to travel with cause hes always

super keen to surf. Hes become even better to have

around lately though cause he loves taking photos

almost as much as surfing... and hes getting bloody

good at it. Plus having known each other our whole

lives we both know when we need some time out.

Dunc: Knowing each other well and surfing together

all your lives must help with the positioning and setting

up for the water shots. Are you pleased with the

results of the trip?

But as you can see, we werent too bothered as it was more than worth the wait... Taking it to another level, this time below sea. Chayno off the bottom of a serious Nias wall.

All pics: Troy Simpson

Qs: Duncan Jones

07

Chayne: Really pleased with the results. The kid

knows what hes doing - thats for sure. Although he

has crushed a few barrels on me now - ha ha. He

has got me pretty smashed a few times too cause he

loves calling me into stupid closeouts so he can get

the shot... always worth it in the end.

Dunc: Any scrapes or narrow escapes on this trip?

Chayne: Nothing to report. Maybe a few issues after

eating...

Dunc: Did you just stick around Lagundri Bay or go

exploring?

Chayne: Its pretty hard to leave one of the best rights

in the world and go exploring but we managed to get

away a few times. Theres a semi secret right not too

far away that has got to be one of the most perfect

kneelo waves Ive surfed. We hit that a few times

08

by ourselves before all the other crew at the village

started to notice we were missing from the line-up

and realised that we must have been getting waves

somewhere else. Then wed have a trail of people

following us.

Dunc: Hows the famous right hander as a kneelo

wave?

Chayne: 10/10... That is if you like a steep takeoff into

a perfect barrel followed by a wall that just begs you

to belt it.

10/10... That is if you like a steep takeoff into a perfect barrel followed by a wall that just begs you to belt it.

09

Dunc: Did you take special boards for the trip or just

ride your standard set up?

Chayne: Just rode my standard 58s up to say five

foot. Parksey made me a brand new 60 for the trip

that I surfed when it got bigger. Its always scary going

away with boards youve never ridden but they went

great.

Dunc: Looks like you scored some serious waves. Do

you do any special training in the build up to a trip like

that?

Chayne: Is sinking beers classed as training?

Dunc: Have you got a highlight of the trip?

Chayne: Watching Jamie OBrien going crazy in 10ft

slabs was a highlight. That guy is a freak. I got a

couple of solid barrels that will be in my memory for

Setting the line for

another perfect 10.a long time. Oh, and watching an American dude get

all edgy and go home with a hooker after the lads

slipped a Viagra in his drink. Priceless.

Dunc: You guys seem to be picking up the mission

that Simon started to show the world what riding a

kneeboard is all about. What drives you in your surfing

and whats it about for you guys?

Chayne: I just want surf the best I can, and have

11

a bloody good time doing it. Its funny that you

mentioned Simon though because he pushes me to

surf better and more often. I surf with him occasionally

at home and he just blows my mind... I wanna surf

like that. As for showing the world what Kneeboarding

is all about, thats why we make these little clips for

YouTube. We have no other way to show people

footage of kneelos doing their thing. Hopefully

everyone enjoys them and dont think Im a tosser for

flashing footage of myself around.

Dunc: Sick trip! Where next?

Chayne: I cant stop thinking about Mexico. A nice

two month adventure in Mex would be insane... My

boss is gonna love it when I ask for more time off.Belting the wall with precision.

I just want to surf the best I can, and have a bloody good time doing it.

13

Its a dawn patrol with the orange kneeboarder, and youre invited.14

Main: Dream come true. Below: Baja Norte. PICS: Bob Gove.

Once across the border into Mexico its an easy drive out

to the beaches (Las Playas) where the Toll Road turns

south towards Rosarito. Everyone who has ever ventured

to Mexico knows of the smells, colors, and contrasts this

dramatic country offers and the sense of adventure that they

stir up. Baja Malibu is a punchy beach break that provides

an excellent first look at the surf. For us this is usually only

a five minute stop before heading further south down to

Bobs trailer in Rito. Once at the trailer the decision is made,

depending on what the swell and wind are doing, to keep

heading south, stay at Rito, or head back north to Baja

Malibu.

4:30 in the morning comes quickly when you get to bed too

late. But when the surfs supposed to be pumping in Baja I

always manage to get my feet on the ground in time to meet

up with Bob Gove in Old Town San Diego for the 5:00 AM

rendezvous. One of the first times I tagged along our friend

Randy Morris was running late and Bob started to quote the

15 minute rule, If youre not here within 15 minutes of the

meeting time youre outta luck!

Just then, Randys headlights appeared out of the dark.

Within minutes he was loaded up, coffee-in-hand, and we

were on I-5 South for the 20 minute drive to the border. The

Blue Beast (as Bob affectionately refers to it) is his 2001 Ford

F-350 diesel 4x4 double-cab, long bed pickup truck with a

shell and full length roof rack. Of course when we want to

poke some fun at Bob we use an alternative name for his

ride that he just cant stand, The Teal Mobile. The Beast

serves Bob well as a general contractor but, its track record

as a proven performer in sand and on the punishing roads of

Baja is where its true value lies.

Words: Brad Colwell

15This page clockwise from left: Almost there. PIC: Brad ColwellBaja Norte reef. PIC: Jenny Mehlow. Food stop! PIC: Brad Colwell. Bob Gove filling up again. PIC: Brad Colwell.

on many days Blacks may only be shoulder to head-high

while Rito will be well overhead. The plots show how winter

swell coming down past Point Conception will still wrap into

Northern Baja despite some shadowing by San Miguel and

Santa Rosa Islands (two of the five Channel Islands).

We have many choices for after-surf meals in Rosarito. Well

go to Michoacan for their excellent sit down breakfasts or,

if were not feeling like sitting down and being waited on, El

Podor has the best curbside seafood in town. We can also

get some Baja street tacos at Tacos El Poblano or find local

tamales, a culinary treasure. Either way you can stuff yourself

Most of my life Ive been surfing great beachbreaks;

Huntington, San Francisco, Blacks and all are challenging

in their own way. Then theres Rito, a beachbreak which at

size is raw, rugged, shifty, and punishing in a way that stands

out when compared to the others. The best days are when

high pressure has set up shop in the high deserts of the

Great Basin east of California. The resulting offshore winds

transform and elevate Rito to a level that Bob describes as

on par with the best beachbreaks in the world, if not better.

I know that the best statements come with qualifiers and

can provide opportunity for much debate but given his world

surf travels and having had a trailer at Rito since 1979 Ill

give him this one.

One early morning last winter we pulled up to the Trailer and

the waves were just going off. Offshore, big and powerful,

with 2-3 second hangtime on the lips as these long walls

just reeled off down the beach. While it was rideable, there

was no channel and it just looked like too much work. So

we went back up to Baja Malibu where we paddled out

to some clean head high to overhead waves. Out in the

lineup we saw our standup friend David Heatherington and

as I described what we saw at Rito I could see something

twisted in his narrowing eyes. After he caught the next right

and disappeared I knew what it was. He got back to Rito as

quick as he could for a solo session, but thats David!

I found it amazing how the size could be so different between

those two spots which are only a few miles apart. After that

day I really started to pay attention to the NOAA Wavewatch

plots. The steep winter swells from greater than 305 degrees

send consistent, powerful surf to Northern and Central

California but bypass much of Southern California. In fact,

16

Below & RIght: Bob on a screamer. PICS: Mike VosBottom left: Bob on winning form. PIC Brad Colwell.

for only five or six bucks as you reflect on the mornings

session. Various errands may include filling the propane

tanks for half of what it would cost in San Diego, topping

off water jugs for just pocket change with water purified by

reverse osmosis, and filling up on more affordable diesel fuel.

I truly enjoy Mexican culture and interacting with the locals

who are always warm and welcoming. After breakfast we

often return to the Trailer for some horseshoes and this is

when the competitive spirits of Bob and Randy rise quickly to

the surface. These guys talk smack the whole time and have

the game to back it up. Last September Bob and I were

paired against Rafael and Nate, two young standups who

joined us that day. They didnt stand a chance against two

17

kneelos twice their age: we totally buried them!

The drug war is real. Because we live in San Diego we

receive fairly frequent reports on local news stations or in

the newspaper on a wide range of news regarding this

unfortunate problem. In Mexico much of the violence is

driven by the Drug Cartels competing against each other for

control of the drug trade and, as law enforcement and the

military have stepped up pressure, the Cartels have struck

back in violent and brutal ways. The understandable drop

in tourism has really hurt local merchants while resulting in

empty line ups. A long time, ex-pat Baja Malibu homeowner/

surfer told me that he thought there are 90% less surfers

showing up currently than what he was seeing a few years

ago. And thats one of the main draws of Bajauncrowded

surf. While it hurts to miss a few classic winter days at

Blacks, its nice to not have to compete with the 150 other

surfers that may be out. To surf Baja when its firing with just

your friends, hooting and sharing waves, and pushing each

other deeper leaves you with the best memories.

The Border Crossing back into the US always serves as

a topic of discussion. Depending on when you hit the

Border the wait can be anywhere from 5 minutes to 3

hours. Traditionally ours was rarely less than 45 minutes.

The Hack is basically cutting off the unsuspecting local or

tourist next to you in order to get to the front of the line as

quick as you can. Under no circumstances is it OK to get

hacked! Of course Bob is equally adept at this move be it

at the Border Crossing or at Rito when theres a tow-in-

crew out spinning circles in the lineup, something he really

18

Here: Brad picking his linePIC: Bob GoveBelow: Randy Morris enjoying a Baja point. PICS: Bob GoveRight Top: Bob Gove in the right spot. PIC: Leah MatthewRight: Brad off the bottom. PIC: Bob Gove

despises. Sometimes the traffic can be so bad you end up

seeing parts of Tijuana you never cared to, purely because of

the Border Crossing gridlock.

When the KSUSA Titles in December 2007 were rained out

after just a few heats Bob, Randy and I made a Baja run and

the return trip was the worst I have ever seen it. Although

Bob insisted he was not lost the traffic forced him into

streets seldom seen by US surfers. Sitting in the back seat I

took in the choked chaos and imagined a new video game

The Streets of TJ that would be rated T for Teen, at least.

The US Customs and Border Protection Sentri Program,

however, has really reduced our border crossing times.

This Program allows travelers who are low security risk to

cross in special designated lanes that move much quicker.

Our typical wait now is rarely greater than 30 minutes. It

has always been a game to try and guess the wait down

to the minute. Bob and Randy still havent figured out my

guesswork pattern and for now Ill keep it that way. A Sentri

Run is code for a midweek dawn patrol when you have to

get into work for a 10:00 meeting and Randys got that one

wired! Its just the lure of Baja that minimizes the logistics as

you daydream of the next solid swell and perfect A-frame

peaks up and down the beach.

After an epic south swell at the end of July the surf had been

flat for weeks so I agreed to meet Bob for another Baja run

in search of some rideable waves. This morning I arrived

before Bob and figured he was right behind me. When it was

obvious that Bobs 15 minute rule was about to come into

play I made myself comfortable in the back of my car, pulled

out my phone and gave him a ring. As he answered with

a sleepy Hello? I smiled and shouted back, Bob, youre

late! Since I had no choice but to wait that morning for Bob

and The Beast my mind drifted forward to Fall and Winter.

The air will chill, the water temperature will drop, and the

reefs and points south of Rito will come alive again offering

an expanded variety of surfing options.and Ill be getting

more frequent calls from Bob asking,

Almost home... PIC: Brad Colwell

When did you start shaping kneeboards and how

did it come about?

Dale: I got a job repairing dings with Oaks Surfboards

in Victoria when I finished school, which naturally

progressed into learning to shape. It was back in the

days (showing my age) when a shaper actually had

to learn the trade correctly.

How long had you been shaping when you got

involved at Friar Tuck?

Dale: I had been shaping for about three years when

I met Peter Ware, the original owner of Friar Tuck

kneeboards, at a surfing competition and he asked

me to come and work alongside him. Fortunately

he saw my shaping potential and wanted me to

help grow his business that he had just moved from

Sydney to Byron bay.

What were you mainly shaping at that time?

Dale: Peter and I were mainly shaping four fins which

were brand new to the market place and a new

concept developed by Peter.

Qs: Bryn Dampney

Pics: Dale Ponsford

This issue we were lucky enough to get an insight in to a shaper whos open minded thinking has led him to follow his own design path almost exclusively. From his early days at Friar Tuck to open ocean ski racing...

20

Dale Ponsford

Were you inspired to think outside of the box by

your contemporaries?

Dale: No not at all, the contemporaries were going

in a completely different direction to where Peter

and I were heading at that time.

You are known for your reverse curve shapes,

when did you first become aware of them?

Dale: When I was working for Friar Tuck it began. The

ski tail that Friar Tuck did was a conservative view

of where my shapes are today. My reverse curve

shaping stemmed from this time.

Was there a decisive moment when you knew it

(reverse curve) was the direction you wanted to

follow exclusively?

Dale: No it just evolved from thinking outside the

square and shaping lots of varieties of boards for

myself.

What did the shape achieve that made them

stand out in your mind?

Dale: Speed down the line was the standout,

Changing from rail to rail was a positive and how

the board could turn in a very short arc. It was very

responsive and quick overall.

There seems to be a core of underground riders

in Oz that have caught on and swear by your

shapes. Do you think theres a particular reason

the reverse curve hasnt become more wide

spread?

Dale: Absolutely because most kneeboarders are

hesitant to try something new. People become

comfortable with what they have been riding and

arent prepared to be adventurous.

Youve been described as the best kneeboard

surfer/shaper to come out of Oz yet it appears

you stay out of the kneeboard mainstream. Is

that a conscious decision?

Dale: Firstly, I would definitely nominate David

Parkes as the best kneeboard surfer/shaper to

21

22

come out of Oz. Albert Whiteman, who is no longer

with us, is also another great surfer/shaper. Ive

been surfing contests since I was 14 and life just

progresses. I have developed an interest in ocean

ski racing and training for the Molokai and other

world events. I still love to get out on my board and

am passionate about the ocean.

Do you think it is important that the kneeboard

surfer/shaper tradition continues?

Dale: Yes definitely but I would love to see the

industry stick to its roots and traditional methods of

shaping. Unfortunately, Im old school though and

shaping machines seem to be the way of the future

which means innovation is virtually dead.

Which kneeboard shapers past or present stand

out to you?

Dale: David Parkes. Albert Wiseman, Neil Luke.

Peter Ware and John Ware.

Was there a particular time of kneeboard design

you feel was most important?

Dale: When Peter had Friar Tuck kneeboards he was

the most innovative shaper in the world. He was

always the leader not the follower.

What has been the biggest positive design

change in your opinion?

Dale: Probably going from the slab single fin to

the three and four fin designs and then a natural

progression to outline and bottom curves.

Do you think there will be any sort of

breakthrough in board design in the near future?

Dale: I dont think so because a lot of surfer/shapers

arent willing to push the boundaries of design and

shapers are looking at surfers for inspiration and not

themselves.

What gives you the most enjoyment from

shaping?

Dale: Creating something new and innovative that

will suit the person it was designed for and having

them call me and tell me what a great time they had

on it.

Do you have an all time favourite board?

Dale: No I have many favourite boards and each one

has sentimental value and represents a certain part

of my life/career

Who is your all time favourite kneelo and why?

Dale: I think there has been many great

kneeboarders. Peter Crawford was definitely a cool

surfer. Simon Farrer, Neil Luke, Michael Novakov.

David Parkes.

Are there any young kneelos that you shape for

regularly?

Dale: No young guys at this time.

Do you think kneeboarding has a healthy future?

Dale: I think competitions on a world wide scale are

more alive than ever. Having the World Titles at Phillip

Island will be an asset to the Australian scene.

Youre known for your surfing as well as ive

already mentioned. How would you define your

perfect session?

Dale: Surfing Forries (central Coast of NSW) at 8 10

foot with my best mate Pino.

...most kneeboarders are hesitant to try something new. People become comfortable with what they have been riding and arent prepared to be adventurous.

23

Dale Ponsford

Do you think contests are important and enjoy

competing?

Dale: Yes very important it makes surfers push

the limits of their own ability and boards. I do enjoy

competing especially in Phillip Island where the

waves are good.

Is there anything new youre working on at the

moment?

Dale: Yes playing around at the moment with

channels and bottom curves.

What are your plans for the coming year?

Dale: Playing with channels and changers, e.g.

flyers, in ski tail outlines.

Thanks for taking the time to do this interview Dale

and we look forward to seeing where your design

evolution leads!

Dale putting it in to practice,

scalping a Phillip Island wall

good and proper. PIC: Waka

24

Dale Ponsford

Englands best wave? Some would argue it is and some would argue it isnt. My view is that its capable of being when the wind and swell direction

are right. Traditionally it was always considered to

be the best but times have changed in English surfing

and nowadays there are many spots that vie for the

top spot. These include waves in the North East,

secret slabs on hidden parts of the Cornish coast and

of course North Cornwalls most famous lefthander,

Milook.

This past winter the Bay of Biscay woke up,

pummelling the south coast with swell and Porthleven

reminded us of what it can do.

For those who are unfamiliar with the Cornish surfing

scene, Porthleven is a fishing village on the south

coast of the county. Theres actually more than one

break in the village and the pressures of modern

surfing means all the peaks have their dedicated

followers. The main peak is to the right of the harbour

entrance and is a left and a right. Just down from that

is Wrestles named after the Cornish Wrestling field

that overlooks it. Its mainly a left but when the swell

direction is spot on produces a tasty righthander as

well. Continue on to the west and there are numerous

other peaks which each have their day. On the other

side of the harbour entrance is the jacking slab known

as Graveyards. This one tends to be the haunt of

bodyboarders on the whole, unless the main peaks

not on.

South swell after south swell lined up with north

easterly winds gave us an seemingly endless run of

great days. The reef showed its many moods through

the different swells. From perfect chandelier cylinders

to thick slabbing guillotines, the reef had many

moods and claimed many boards. Needless to say

the rumbling swells down south didnt go unnoticed

and attracted the full attention of the UK surf scene.

Right: Chris Cockett, evening

perfection.

PIC: David Parkes

Main: Karl Ward, off the

bottom the othewr side of the

pack.

PIC: Hannah

Far Left: Duncan Jones wraps

it back.

PIC: Hannah

Left: Classic view of harbour by

evening light.

PIC: Dave Parkes

Right: A young David Parkes

scored Porthleven all time

during this visit.

PIC: Chris Cockett.

27

Car loads descended on

the quiet fishing village.

Lenses lined the harbour

all looking for the fresh

angle, the next cover shot

and despite the frostbite-

inducing conditions,

multiple sessions were

put in as surfers gorged

on the waves and chased

that perfect cover shot

to keep their sponsors

happy. Amongst all of

this there were a healthy

number of kneeboarders

putting in their time and

hooking in to their share

of the stoke.

None of us made any

covers but Matthew

Dimmer Deaves did

get a shot in mainstream

British surf mag, as did

Richard Huey Hewitt.

Dimmers was a surfing

shot but Hueys was

rather more dramatic

- close up of blood

dripping down his face

from a nasty looking cut

above his eye after a

close encounter with the

reef (caused by a drop-

in)...

29

Karl Ward parking it

PICS: Hannah

This tasty little sequence was taken recently at Porthleven and features surfer Robin Kent guiding his stand up board through the inside section on his knees. Robin was

once well known for his knee-riding, even representing

Britian at the ISA Worlds on one occasion. From what I hear

his attack always was fairly progressive and he regularly

landed airs and as well as this, he was a great barrel rider.

Then one day he put aside his kneeboard and started riding

on his feet. I wouldnt say I know him but I did used to

surf around his regular haunts and as a kneeboarder was

regularly told of his reasons for quitting by various stand up

friends. Over the years Ive heard a number of stories. The

first involves a doctor telling him to stop because all that

aerial landing without a deck pad had damaged his knees

beyond repair. Another reason given is that once while

surfing small Nias he found he couldnt generate any speed

on his knees so he chucked his flippers up on the reef and

never looked back. And still another Ive been told is that

he switched over for the sponsorship and the money offered

by stand up surfing. Like I said I dont actually know why he

stopped as Ive never asked him.

What I do know is that riding stand up, hes carved a

niche for himself as a barrel rider and slab charger which

culminated in Rip Curls Searching for Isolation project.

Robin was sent off along with photographer Mickey Smith

to seek out the thickest waves they could find in the North

Atlantic for a series of magazine articles. Some of the results

can be seen on line here - www.mickeysmith.co.uk.

Nowadays Robins stand-up exposure has quietened down

a bit although hes still well known for his barrel riding and

will usually feature in the line up when Porthleven or his

local St.Agnes turns on.

What prompted this little piece was the recent session that

produced these pictures. On this day on pretty much every

wave Robin rode he set up the barrel on his knees. I have no

idea if this was for my benefit or purely a functional thing. I

like to think seeing another kneelo in the line up reminded

him of his routes and the unique perspective that shooting

the tube on your knees gives.

a Kneeboarder.

Once a Knee-boarder, always a

30

PICS: Hannah

Duncan Jones carefully picking his line

in to a wintery Porthleven tunnel.

PIC: Hannah

Drop us a line, post on a

forum, get in touch and give

us your thoughts.

The kneeboard World is

so diverse and colourful

theres always an interesting

thought to pass on or words

to be said...

Lets keep moving forward

in which ever direction suits

you. Fish or thruster, quad

or tri.

Just keep it on your

knees!

31

www.kernowkneelo.co.uk

www.kneelo.org

www.ksusa.org

www.troysimpsonphoto.com

www.hawaiianlines.com