Kitchen Gardening Pre Requisite A Training

PresentationBy

Mr. Allah Dad Khan Agriculture Consultant KPK Province Pakistan

Vegetables grown in Pakistan

More than 35 kinds of vegetables are grown in numerous eco-systems in Pakistan from the dry zone to the wet zone, low elevation to high elevation, rain fed to irrigated and low input to very high input systems such as plastic houses. During summer and spring season, tomato, chilies, brinjal, potato, cucumber, gourds and okra are abundantly available. During rainy season, gourds, cucumber, beans, okra and brinjal are common. The winter season is the most important for growing a wide variety of vegetables including, cauliflower, cabbage, lettuce, spinach, onion, potato, carrot, radish, turnip, coriander, fenugreek and peas. Vegetables produced in different zones by using different production technologies during different seasons are traded across regional markets of Pakistan in order to meet consumer demand across the country. Varied agro-climatic conditions prevailing in different provinces of the country also contribute to year round production of different kinds of vegetables. Thus many vegetables can be grown and seen in the market during any season.

What type of soil do you have?

You've probably heard that the ideal garden soil is a rich loam. But what exactly is this? A rich, loamy soil contains a range of mineral particle sizes——from microscopic clays to relatively large grains of sand. These particles are bound together into groupings of various sizes called aggregates. Soil composed of these aggregates has

lots of pore spaces of various sizes, and these spaces contain water and

air. If all the spaces contain water, the soil is waterlogged; few plants

can withstand such saturated soils for long, because plant roots need

air.

Planning a Vegetable Garden

Planning is the first and most basic step in home vegetable gardening. Planning not only saves time when you’re ready to plant but also gives you an idea of the types and quantities of seeds or plants you’ll need. Most importantly,planning helps assure that the home garden will satisfy your needs and desires.

Choosing the Site

Vegetables grow best in an open, level area where the soil is loose, rich, and well drained. If the quality of the soil is poor, mix in 2-3 inches of topsoil, peat moss, strawy manure, compost, or leaves plus fertilizer. The more organic matter or topsoil you add, the more you’ll improve your soil. Avoid heavy clays, sandy soils, and shady spots

Protection from wind:

Strong winds dry out plants and soil, and can topple tall plants like corn and sunflowers. Wind is a little harder to plan for, but if you have the choice, choose a spot that is protected from your area’s prevailing winds. If your worst winds come from the north, then a garden on the south edge of a row of trees will receive some protection. Just be sure your windbreak doesn’t shade your garden! You can set up a snow fence or plant some low shrubs to help break the wind without sacrificing sunlight.

Water:

Locate your garden near a water source, or have hoses that will reach it. (Underground soaker hoses save water and time, so consider installing them before you plant.)

Choosing Varieties

How do you choose among all those luscious-sounding tomato varieties! (Especially if you are looking at photos on a cold January day!) Though there’s nothing wrong with choosing a variety because you like how it looks, you may want to consider some other characteristics that can make your job as gardener a little easier.

Disease Resistance

There are cultivars (cultivated varieties) of many garden plants that have shown resistance to certain pests. If you

know a pest is common in your region, by all means choose a resistant variety! If you don’t know what pests you

might encounter, you might want to plant a few disease-resistant plants

Short or Long Season

If you like to have the first ripe tomatoes on the block, or you live in a region with relatively short summers, choose varieties that mature the fastest. Some tomato varieties, for example, ripen 60 days after transplanting, while others need 85 days or more to maturity.

Growing Habit

Bush beans, as the name implies, grow as small, freestanding plants, while pole beans need something to climb. Some types of squash grow in compact form, while others need lots of space for their vines to run

Hybrid or Open-Pollinated

Hybrid plants often are more productive and disease-resistant than open-pollinated (non-hybrid) varieties. However, there’s a drawback. If you like to save seed at the end of the season for planting the following year, avoid hybrids. Their seed doesn’t come true -- that is, the resulting offspring plants may not have all the positive characteristics of the parent plant.

Seeds or Transplants?

Which seeds should you sow directly in the garden, and which do better if you plant them as seedlings (either purchasing transplants or starting the seeds indoors yourself)?

Many garden plants do just fine when you sow the seed directly in the garden. These plants usually mature relatively fast; so direct sowing works well. Plants with taproots, such as carrots, generally don’t transplant well, so it’s best to start them from seed right in the garden too.

Other plants have long growing seasons, or must be planted outdoors in early spring so they mature before the hot weather arrives. These do best when set in the garden as transplants.

Direct sow: Beans, beets, carrots, corn, lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, peas, radish, potato

Plant transplants: Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, cabbage, peppers, tomatoes, okra,

asparagus, rhubarb You can go either way with these: Cucumbers, squash, muskmelon, watermelon, pumpkins, gourds

Size of Kitchen GardenIf you are new to gardening, you may wish to start with a relatively small garden, say 10 foot x 20 foot. Enthusiastic novices often till up a huge garden area, and then abandon it to the weeds by July. A small, well-tended garden will produce more than more than a large, neglected oneSingle rows or wide-row beds? If space is at a premium, creating 3- to 4-foot-wide beds will allow you to grow more plants than if you plant in long single rows because less space is wasted on paths. Plants in wide rows are spaced closer together, making it easier to weed, feed, and water them. Wide-row plantings do not have to be raised-bed plantings, but like raised beds, the width of the row should be such that you can easily reach the center of the bed from each side (3 to 4 feet)

Square Foot Gardening

Square-foot gardening is a form of intensive gardening where you block off squares of space for crops rather than planting them in rows. The namecomes from partitioning blocks of gardens space that are 1 ft by 1 ft. Each square holds a different vegetable, flower, or herb. These small 1-foot squares are grouped together into blocks Measuring 4 ft by 4 ft square.

Spacing of Plants -- Intensive Gardening

Individual plants are more closely spaced in a raised bed or interplanted garden. An equidistant spacing pattern calls for plants to be the same distance from each other within the bed; that is, plant so that the center of one plant is the same distance from the centers of plants on all sides of it. In beds of more than two rows this means that the rows should be staggered so that the plants in every other row are between the plants in the adjacent rows.

The distance recommended for plants within the row on a seed packet is the distance from the center of one plant to the center of the next. This results in a more efficient use of space and leaves less area to weed and mulch. The close spacing tends to create a nearly solid leaf canopy, acting as living mulch, decreasing water loss, and keeping weed problems down. However, plants should not be crowded to the point at which disease problems arise or competition causes stunting.

Gardening SpacingPlant Inches Plant InchesAsparagus 15-18 Beans 4-6Beets 2-4 Broccoli 12-18Cabbage 15-18 Carrot 2-3Cauliflower 15-18 Cucumber 12-18Egg plant 18-24 Lettuce Head 10-12Lettuce Leaf 4-6 Melons 18-24Mustard 6-9 Okra 12-18Onion 2-4 Peas 2-4Peppers 12-15 Potato 10-12Pumpkin 24-36 Radish 2-3Spinach 4-6 Squash 24=36Tomatoes 18-24 Turnip 4-6

Raised Beds

In raised-bed gardening the planting surface is elevated to predetermined height. A raised bed can be a simple mound of soil or an elaborate wood or stone structure. There are a number of benefits to creating raised beds:

Better drainage. Growing plants in raised beds is a logical choice for gardeners with heavy, poorly drained soils. Raised beds permit plant roots to develop in soil held above waterlogged or compacted zones. This provides a more optimum soil environment for root growth. As beds are built up, compost or other forms of organic matter may be incorporated, further improving soil structure, drainage and nutrient-holding capacity.

Higher yields. Better root growth from improved soils leads to higher yields for food crops and lusher growth of ornamental plantings. Also, intensive planting in raised beds means more plants can be grown in a smaller area than with conventional row-cropping techniques. No space is wasted between rows.

Raised Beds

Expanded growing season. Better drainage speeds soil warming and allow earlier spring planting. In

Wet seasons, soil dries out faster, permitting planting to proceed between rains. Maintenance. Because plants are growing above the level of walkways, less stooping is required

for weeding, watering and other chores. Intensively planted raised beds provide dense foliage cover, shading out much weed growth. Pathways are more defined, so you (and your visitors) are less

likely to Trample new plantings. Using difficult sites. Raised beds make gardening possible on sites where growing plants would Otherwise be impossible. Rooftop gardens and raised beds on top of solid rock are examples.

Terraced raised beds turn hillsides into productive growing areas while reducing soil erosion potential.Disadvantages: Raised beds are not the answer for all gardeners lacking space. The initial labor

cost to establish the beds may be high. Once established, especially with permanent sides, it may be

difficult to use a standard size tiller for cultivation. The tendency of the soil in raised beds to dry faster may Increase the need for irrigation later in the season.

WHERE SHOULD I PLANT MY GARDEN? Your garden should be close to home or work and easily accessible. You’ll soon grow

tired of commuting to a distant location. If you have no usable soil, you can build open-bottom containers on top of almost anything—even driveways, patios, and roofs. Choose a location that receives full sunlight all day long (or at least from mid-morning through the afternoon). Avoid trees, buildings, tall fences, hedges, and bushes that would block out the sun. Shade retards plant growth. For better results and less work, choose a level area. A slight southern slope (toward the sun) is ideal. Avoid north slopes (away from the sun). They have more shadows, less direct sunlight, and are sometimes too cold. If your ground is on a hillside, plant on the contour. Always level the ground under the containers. Locate your garden near a readily available source of good water. Do not use low spots where drainage is poor. Plants must have oxygen and will suffocate in standing water. Avoid windy areas, or build windbreaks. Tender plant leaves are easily damaged by strong winds. Fence the area to protect against animal and human intruders. If small animals are a problem, use wire mesh at ground level.

HOW BIG SHOULD MY GARDEN BE?

Available sunny space often dictates the size of your garden. A small, well-tended, sunlit

garden will yield more than a larger garden in poor conditions. Container dimensions: o For two rows of plants, containers are ideally 10’ long, 18” wide, and 8”

high. Placing two rows of plants close together reduces watering and fertilizing by 50%. o Include a 3’ to 3 ½’ aisle between containers, and at least one end aisle

of 5’. Wide aisles give ready access to plants for feeding, watering, inspection, and harvesting. Start small and provide regular care, and your success will give you the

training and incentive to increase your garden size.

HOW SHOULD I ARRANGE MY PLANTING AREA?

First create a blueprint of your garden area on scaled grid paper, showing the number,

location, and size of your containers. Orient your containers for maximum advantage of sunlight, watering, and access. As you place plants on your blueprint, put tallest varieties on the north and east sides. Never shade short plants with taller ones. If necessary, place leafy crops, such as lettuce and spinach,

in locations with less optimal sunshine.

WHAT TOOLS DO I NEED?

A long-handled irrigation (or round-headed) shovel is important for initial soil preparation and to remove perennial weeds and their rhizomes. A strong 12”- or 14”-wide garden rake is good for removing weeds and leveling the

soil, as well as for mixing and leveling the custom-made soil in the containers. A two-way hoe, sometimes called a scuffle or hula hoe, is best for early weeding of small weed seedlings in the aisles. It cuts them off just below the soil surface with very little movement of the soil. Container gardens rarely require weeding. If you’re watering by hand, a garden hose with a gentle watering wand will let you water quickly without washing out the custom-made soil from your containers. Plant-spacing markers save time and give your garden a professional look while providing equal light, water, and nutrition to each plant. Two rows of ½” dowels, spaced 6” and 7” apart, will help you plant most varieties properly. A wheelbarrow or large cart is useful for larger gardens.

HOW SHOULD I PLAN MY TIME?

Schedule the time to create and grow your garden. Like a cow that has to be milked

twice daily, your garden needs daily care and attention to produce a high yield of healthy crops. Make a garden calendar and list the projects that need attention. That way you

will not forget important things like planting dates. Plan on these time estimates for a garden of ten container beds that are each

10’-long: o Six to eight hours to clear the area, construct containers, and make aisles. o Four to six hours to prepare the custom soil, apply fertilizers, plant seeds, and transplant seedlings. o Twenty minutes per day, preferably in the early morning, to water, feed, prune, and otherwise care for your plants. o Two to ten minutes per day to harvest, depending on what and how much you are harvesting.

HOW DO I PREPARE MY GARDEN?

Clear your garden area of everything—whether living or dead—including trees, shrubs,

bushes, flowers, grass, and trash. Eliminate weeds, both annual and perennial. o Annual weeds can be plowed under or removed with a shovel,

rake, or hoe. o Perennial weeds continue growing year after year. These must

be removed— roots, rhizomes (underground stems), and runners. Otherwise

they will be a constant problem. Measure and stake the corners of your garden as planned. Make

sure your dimensions fit the number of containers you want to have.

WHEN SHOULD WEED CONTROL BEGIN?

Properly prepared containers require very little weeding. Using clean, weed-free materials for your growing medium is essential.

Do not use soil, dirty sand, compost, or manure. There are two main types of weeds: 1. Perennials, which grow for many years from rhizomes (underground

stems) and runners (above-ground stems). 2. Annuals, which grow from new seeds every year. There are two main times to control weeds: 1. While preparing your garden soil before planting: remove all weeds, including perennial rhizomes and runners. 2. Immediately after weeds sprout, usually 7–10 days after planting your vegetable crop: weed thoroughly now!

HOW CAN I PREVENT WEEDS?

Using a non-soil growing medium is one of the best ways to prevent weeds in your

garden. Other ways of preventing weeds from getting into your containers

include: o Irrigating with well water, the culinary water supply, or filtered

water. o Maintaining a wide weed-free perimeter around your garden. Weed

seeds often travel through the air. o Staying out of the containers. Shoes can carry weeds and

diseases. o Removing all weeds from the aisles when they are small and

before they produce seeds.