Kheops Patchwork Bracelet - Beadsmith · 2015-08-11 · patchwork and exit from the left-hand hole...

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Kheops Patchwork Bracelet © Katie Dean 2015 www.beadflowers.co.uk Page 1 www.beadflowers.co.uk Designed by Katie Dean © 2015. All rights reserved. For distribution and teaching by customers of the Beadsmith. Kheops Patchwork Bracelet This is a great project for using Kheops colour mix packs, or using up leftover kheops beads. You can really have fun playing with different patterns and colour combinations. Materials At least 102 Kheops Par Puca (6mm) in your choice of colours you need multiples of 6 in each colour I used Coral Red, Pink, Jet Copper and Rose/Gold Ceramic (A) 7g size 11 Duracoat Delicas in Yellow Gold DB1833 (B) Your choice of thread I used 4lb Fireline in crystal Tools: Beading needle and scissors Skill Level: Intermediate and up Techniques: Peyote stitch clasp. You will also learn how to join Kheops beads.

Transcript of Kheops Patchwork Bracelet - Beadsmith · 2015-08-11 · patchwork and exit from the left-hand hole...

Page 1: Kheops Patchwork Bracelet - Beadsmith · 2015-08-11 · patchwork and exit from the left-hand hole in the net Kheops in patchwork piece one. See figure 5. Step 6: You are now going

Kheops Patchwork Bracelet © Katie Dean 2015 www.beadflowers.co.uk Page 1

www.beadflowers.co.uk

Designed by Katie Dean © 2015. All rights reserved. For distribution and teaching by customers of

the Beadsmith.

Kheops Patchwork Bracelet

This is a great project for using Kheops colour mix packs, or using up leftover kheops beads.

You can really have fun playing with different patterns and colour combinations.

Materials

At least 102 Kheops Par

Puca (6mm) in your choice of

colours – you need multiples of

6 in each colour – I used Coral

Red, Pink, Jet Copper and

Rose/Gold Ceramic (A)

7g size 11 Duracoat

Delicas in Yellow Gold DB1833

(B)

Your choice of thread – I

used 4lb Fireline in crystal

Tools: Beading needle and

scissors

Skill Level: Intermediate and up

Techniques: Peyote stitch

clasp. You will also learn how to

join Kheops beads.

charlotte
beadsmith.com
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Kheops Patchwork Bracelet © Katie Dean 2015 www.beadflowers.co.uk Page 2

Method

Start by getting used to the Kheops beads. You

need to understand which way to thread through

them in order to get them to line up as you want

them for this pattern. As you can see from the

photo, one side of the bead has two holes

through it – I will refer to this as the base. The

other two sides each have one hole, so they will

be referred to as ‘left’ and ‘right’ with the sides

referring to the beads as they would appear when

seen with the base at the bottom.

Step 1: Cut a length of 2 arm-spans of thread and

thread on a stop bead. Pass the stop bead to the

centre of your piece of thread, so you will have a

‘normal’ working length and a tail thread of a

similar length. You will be starting at the centre of

the bracelet, with the middle piece of patchwork.

Pick up your first (A), moving in the right hole in

the base, so you come out of the single hole in

the right hand side. See figure 1.

Step 2: Pick up 1 (A), moving in from the left

hand side so you will emerge from the left hand

hole in the base. Pass through the right hand hole

in the base so you will end up coming out of the

right hand side of the bead. See figure 2.

Step 3: Repeat step 2 four more times so you will

end up with a total of 6 Kheops forming a circle.

Finish the row by passing down through the left

hand side of your first (A), remove the stop bead

from the tail thread and pass your working thread

through the right hand side of your first bead and

out of the left-hand side of the next bead. See

figure 3.

If you have trouble envisaging which is right and

left and working out which hole to pass through,

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Kheops Patchwork Bracelet © Katie Dean 2015 www.beadflowers.co.uk Page 3

then pick up your Kheops bead and hold it in position where you want it to end up – it will

then be easy to see which hole to pass through.

Step 4: You are now going to start on your

second patchwork piece. Using your second

colour of Kheops, pass through the first bead

moving through the right hand hole of the base.

See figure 4.

Step 5: Add another five Kheops in your second

colour to create the next piece of patchwork.

When you have added the final Kheops, pass

through the left hand hole of the first Kheops (this

will be the empty hole), then pass down into the

right hand hole of the Kheops from your first

patchwork and exit from the left-hand hole in the

net Kheops in patchwork piece one. See figure 5.

Step 6: You are now going to add your third piece

of patchwork, so change to your third colour. The

first two Kheops in this piece of patchwork will link

to the first two pieces of patchwork.

Pick up your first Kheops, passing into the base

through the right-hand hole. Pick up the second

Kheops, passing in from the side so you exit the

left-hand hole in the base. Pass down through the

right-hand hole in the base of the sixth Kheops

from your second patchwork piece. See figure 6.

Step 7: You now need to work into position to

then add the remaining four Kheops to patchwork

piece three. Follow the thread path in figure 7,

moving down through patchwork 2, bead 6, out

through patchwork 2, bead 1 and into patchwork

1, then out of patchwork 1 to the point where you

added the first Kheops for patchwork piece 3. You

now want to pass through the left-hand hole of

this first Kheops – see the red circle in figure 7 –

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Kheops Patchwork Bracelet © Katie Dean 2015 www.beadflowers.co.uk Page 4

and out of the left-hand side of the bead. Although this isn’t linked to the base, you will find it

links up in a later step.

Step 8: Use the usual technique to add the

remaining four Kheops to your third piece of

patchwork. When you have added the final bead

(marked 4 in figure 8), pass into the neighbouring

Kheops (this would be number 2 from step 7),

then down through the bead from patchwork

piece two and out through its neighbour, as

shown by the black thread path in figure 8.

Step 9: Add the fourth piece of patchwork, so

again, change your Kheops colour if you wish.

Pick up the first Kheops, passing in through the

left-hand hole in the base. Pick up the second

Kheops, passing through the right hand side so

you exit from the base. Join this on to patchwork

piece three and weave through patchwork three

and two, following the blue thread path in figure 9.

You should end up exiting from the hole in a

patchwork 2 Kheops, marked by a green circle.

From here, pass into the un-used (right-hand)

hole in the first Kheops of patchwork four, as shown by the green arrow in figure 9. You

should end up exiting from the point shown by the black arrow.

Step 10: Add the remaining four beads to

complete patchwork piece four. These are

marked in number order in figure 10.

When you add the final bead, pass down through

the un-used hole in Kheops 2, so you will be

exiting as shown by the red arrow. Loop your

thread around the thread just above the hole

marked in red (a bead from patchwork 3), then

pass on through the other hole in Kheops 2, as

indicated by the second red arrow. Weave on

through Kheops 1, 3 and 4 until you are exiting at the point shown by the black arrow.

Step 11: Repeat from step 4 until you have added enough pieces of patchwork to reach

almost halfway around your wrist. You will need to leave about an inch to allow for the clasp

and you should end with two pieces (ie at step 8). When you think you have completed the

first half, leave your working thread.

Thread a needle onto your tail thread and work from step 4 to add the equivalent patchwork

pieces to the other half of your bracelet. If you are working to a colour pattern, make sure

you follow this as you go. When you have finished the second side, check the fit. If you have

slightly over an inch between the two ends, you will be able to extend the clasp fastening to

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Kheops Patchwork Bracelet © Katie Dean 2015 www.beadflowers.co.uk Page 5

adjust the fit. If you have less than an inch, you may find the bracelet sits a little loose

around your wrist.

Step 12: You are now going to add the edging to

the bracelet. You can use either your working or

your tail thread to do this, just make sure you are

exiting from the right point (a Kheops in the ‘dip’

between the two end beads) to start. Pick up 3

(B) and pass down through the other hole in the

same Kheops, then up through the neighbouring

Kheops, so you will be exiting from the base, as

shown in figure 11.

Step 13: Keep adding sets of 3(B) along the base

of each Kheops around the outer end of the

bracelet. See figure 12. When you reach the ‘dip’

between two patchwork pieces, you will need to

follow the threadpath shown in blue in figure 12 to

get into position to start adding the next set of

3(B).

Repeat this pattern to add the delicas all around

the outside edge of your bracelet. When you

reach the end, you should find you are exiting

from the same place you started this step.

Step 14: You are now going to fill in the gaps, but there is a specific bead count for doing

this. Start by passing through the first set of 3(B) you added in step 13. Pick up 3(B) and

pass through the next set of beads. Repeat this

around the outer edge. When you reach the first

‘dip’, add a single (B) between your groups of

3(B). Add a single (B) in every dip, except on the

two ends of the bracelet. In this space you will

need to add 2(B) and these are the beads you

will use to attach the clasp. Take a close look at

figure 13 and note how many beads are added in

each type of space. When you have added the

beads all around the edge of the bracelet, finish

off both threads.

Step 15: You are now going to make the toggle for your clasp. This is made using even

count Peyote, working with the (B) beads. Stitch a strip of even count Peyote that has 10

beads per row (this means you will start by picking up 20 beads) and has a total of ten rows.

Zip row 1 to row 10 to complete the toggle.

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Weave through to the centre of the toggle, so

you are exiting from one of the beads outlined

in red in figure 14. Pick up 2(B) and pass

through the second of the red-outlined beads in

the toggle, through the first bead in the toggle

again and out of the first bead you added – this

thread path is marked in black. The two beads

you have just added will form row 1 of a

herringbone strip.

*Pick up 2(B) and pass down through the

second bead you added last time (in row 1), up through the first bead from row 1 and

through the first bead you have just picked up. The two new beads are outlined in green in

figure 14. This completes the second row of herringbone.

Repeat from * until you have added a total of 10 rows of herringbone. Join this final row onto

the two beads at the end of your bracelet (marked in brown in figure 14). Make sure the join

is secure and then finish off your thread.

Step 16: The other half of the clasp is made using the (B) beads and working in circular

Peyote. Work with about 3’ (90cm) of thread.

Start by picking up 36 beads and slide them to

about halfway along your thread, so you will leave

a tail thread of about 40cm. Pass through all the

beads again to form a circle.

Add the next row of Peyote by picking up 1(B)

and passing through the next-but-one bead in

your circle. When you have completed the row

(this will be 18 beads), remember to step up so

you are exiting from the first bead you added in

this row. See figure 15.

Step 17: In the next row, add a single bead in the

first space, add a single bead in the second

space, add a pair of beads in the third space.

Repeat this pattern all the way around the row, so

you will add a total of 24 beads. Step up at the

end of the row. See figure 16.

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Step 18: Stitch another row of Peyote, so you will

add a single bead between each of the beads in

your previous row – this includes adding a single

bead between the two beads in each pair. In total

you will add 24 (B) beads. Remember to step up

at the end of the row. See figure 17.

Step 19: Stitch one more row of peyote stitch, with one (B) bead in each space and step up

at the end of the row. You should have added 24 beads. Now leave your working thread.

Step 20: Using your tail thread, repeat steps 17 and 18 to add the increase row and the first

of the single bead rows to the other end of your tube. This should make the second side

increase out into a circular/hexagon shape. Make

sure you add the increase beads in the equivalent

spaces as on the first half so that the corners of

your hexagon will align correctly.

Step 21: Zip up the final row on this side of the

circle to the final row on the other side to

complete the clasp. Finish off whichever length of

thread is shorter.

Step 22: Using the remaining thread, weave

through to exit from the corner of your clasp. Stitch a herringbone strip (refer back to step 15

if you need the thread path reminder) which you will use to join the clasp to the other end of

your bracelet. You can adjust the length of this strip to create the right fit for your bracelet.

Again, make sure that you have created a really firm attachment for the clasp, then finish off

your thread and your bracelet is ready to wear.