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K-9 First Aid and Health

Part Two –General Health Issues and Diseases

Topic 14

Taken from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porcupine

Photo by Beth Swartz

Porcupine Quills

Dog and porcupine encounters are common in the woods in the northeast. Sometimes some encounters can be prevented by introducing a young dog to a dead porcupine (like a road kill), letting the dog near it to smell it, and telling the dog “no” paired with some physical corrections so that the dog (hopefully) understands that the animal should be avoided or at least approached with caution. In spite of this pre-training, many dogs, especially search and rescue dogs, will encounter porcupines while on the job or in the back yard.

Even if the dog does not touch the porcupine, the animal will swat at the dog with its tail, implanting quills in the process, usually on the nose, chest and often the front legs. If the dog is aggressive, it may try to bite the porcupine, resulting in quills in the mouth and tongue. Although some may advise otherwise, I have found that it is best to try to get the quills out as soon as possible. If a handler has a good relationship with their dog and carries a multi-tool on their belt, they can usually make good progress pulling the quills out in the field immediately after the dog is quilled. The dog may fight

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and paw at its mouth at first, but as the dog gets tired and realizes that it starts to hurt less as the quills are removed, the dog will usually settle down. Even quills in the mouth can be removed one at a time as the dog pants. Patience and persistence is the best policy as well as keeping a cool head. If the dog is too aggressive to handle, then an immediate trip to the veterinarian is required.

If the quills are not removed immediately, many of them work themselves deeper into the skin, as their barbs cause them to move inward but not out. If they get below the skin, they may migrate through the body and emerge months or years later. The application of anesthesia makes the process much easier, but the delay may cause some quills to dig in. If the dog only gets a few quills and they are removed quickly, a trip to the veterinarian is probably not needed. But if the dog gets a substantial number of quills, or gets quills in the mouth, antibiotics should be given to the dog even if the handler can remove them all.

Coil spring leg hold trap, Photo by Deborah Palman

Encounters with Animal Leg Hold Traps

Furbearer trapping seasons occur in the fall and early winter in the northeast. Trappers conceal and bait their traps to catch raccoons, foxes, bobcats and coyotes. Most trappers are careful and set their traps to catch animals that are smaller than most working dogs, but, since the traps are designed to attract canids, sometimes domestic dogs get caught when they investigate the bait. Traps may be used year round to catch nuisance animals around farms, camps and outbuildings in rural areas. Marijuana growers may also set traps to discourage rabbits and other animals from eating their

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crops, so dog handlers working in areas with marijuana gardens should be alert to this possibility.

Double flat spring leg hold trap,

Photo by Deborah Palman

Foot hold traps rarely cause damage to a large dog if the dog is removed quickly. Usually the dog is frightened and more upset by the trap than they are physically harmed. If a dog is caught in a trap, catch and calm the dog, being careful not to be bitten. Muzzle the dog if needed, and try to keep the dog from biting the trap because the dog may break teeth on the trap. If needed, wrap the dog in a blanket or cover it up to subdue it. Once the dog is calmed, examine the trap.

Close up of loop enclosing jaws on coils spring trap. Photo by Deborah Palman

Coil spring trap, set for use.

Photo by Deborah Palman

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Close up of loop enclosing jaws on flat spring trap, Photo by Deborah Palman

Flat spring trap, set for use. Photo by Deborah Palman

Most traps, foot hold and “killer” type traps, have metal leaf, wire or coil springs that are attached to loops that enclose the jaws of the trap. These loops trap the jaws shut when the trap has been sprung. The jaws will not open until the springs are depressed and the loops moved back down to the hinges that anchor the jaws.

Depressing trap springs by stepping on them. Photo by Deborah Palman

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The easiest way to bring the loops down to the hinges is to place the trap on the ground and step on the loops (sometimes also called a lever) or springs to depress them towards the hinge. Once the springs are depressed, the jaws will easily fall open and the dog’s foot removed.

Search and rescue dog handlers and police dog handlers that work in rural areas should contact a trapper, game warden or animal control agent to practice handling and opening up traps. Although opening a trap is a simple process, it takes practice. Opening a trap can be hard to do when the situation is complicated with a frightened and struggling dog.

There is an excellent video by Idaho Fish and Game on how to release your dog from traps and snares at Releasing your Dog from a Trap - YouTube.

Striped Skunk from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Striped_Skunk_(Mephitis_mephitis)_DSC_0030.jpg#filelinks or http://bit.ly/1bBWCOc

Skunk Encounters

Dogs that are working outdoors in the evening and at night can encounter skunks and often are sprayed. While unpleasant for the dog and the owner, skunk spray is not harmful beyond some burning or temporary stinging if spray gets in the dog’s eyes. A number of commercial enzymatic liquid spray products exist to reduce skunk smell

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when sprayed on areas of the dog that have been hit with the spray. It is a good idea to carry one of these products in the dog’s transport vehicle because they are stable and keep over time, and will save the driver from the bulk of the smell as the sprayed dog is transported to where it can be washed.

The following recipe for a “de-skunking” wash should be mixed up fresh, because it loses effectiveness with time.

Combine a 16-ounce bottle of hydrogen peroxide, one box of baking soda and three tablespoons of liquid dish detergent. Pour over the dry dog and lather well, especially in the areas where the spray has hit. Allow the mixture to remain on the dog for ten minutes before rinsing. Repeat as needed, or follow with regular dog shampoo.

The dog may still smell faintly of skunk, especially after the dog is wet, but the smell should be tolerable after treatment with the commercial or homemade wash. The remnants of the smell will fade over a month’s time.

Vomiting

Dogs have well developed vomiting reflexes because vomiting is a defense against infection or toxins they may ingest. Before it vomits, usually a dog will become anxious, salivate or make repeated attempts to swallow. Handlers should monitor the dog when it vomits to check the product for clues as to why the dog is vomiting.

Dogs often eat grass, either for the nutrients or as a cleaning mechanism. If they feel sick to their stomach or have an obstruction in their throat, they may eat grass to purge their stomach and/or clear the obstruction. If they eat something that is toxic, the dog may also purge its stomach. The vomiting will often proceed until the dog’s stomach is empty and only froth or mucus is expelled. Other causes of vomiting are:

1. Dietary changes or dietary “indiscretions” (eating something they shouldn’t have, like a rotten animal found outside)

2. Infections 3. Viruses 4. Poisons 5. Foreign objects 6. Stress 7. Parasites 8. Motion sickness

If a dog has been closely supervised so that the handler knows the dog has not ingested any foreign objects or things it shouldn’t have, and the vomiting is limited to a few short episodes, a bacterial or viral infection might be the cause and a trip to the

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veterinarian is probably not needed if no other symptoms (lethargy, diarrhea, etc.) are seen. In a case of mild vomiting or diarrhea, food should be withheld for 24 hours, Pepto-Bismol (one ml per pound of body weight) every six hours can be given if vomiting continues. The dog should be rested and stress avoided during this time. Withholding food gives the stomach and digestive system a rest. If vomiting has stopped, the dog can be given a meal of boiled rice and a small amount of chicken or hamburger. Other bland foods may be given. Feed a small amount at first to make sure the dog can keep the food down. After that, feed several small amounts 2 to 4 hours apart, then slowly mix in the dog’s regular kibble to make sure it will not cause a problem. If the dog tolerates the kibble, the normal diet can be continued. If vomiting recurs, the dog should see a veterinarian.

Vomiting in dogs can be a symptom of a serious problem like an intestinal blockage. Some of the more serious forms of vomiting are:

1. Sporadic Vomiting – Sporadic vomiting along with overall general poor health is consistent with a disorder of the internal organs (kidneys or liver) and a chronic illness such as gastritis, worm infestations or diabetes.

2. Vomiting Blood – Vomiting blood can be life threatening and caused by a variety of problems such as a foreign body, tumors or ulcers. Consult a veterinarian immediately.

3. Fecal Vomiting – If a dog vomits foul material that looks and smells like stools (without having been seen eating such material earlier), an obstruction of the intestinal track is usually the cause. Consult a veterinarian immediately.

4. Projectile Vomiting – Projectile vomiting usually involves a foreign object or a complete blockage. Consult a veterinarian immediately.

5. Emotional Vomiting – Emotional vomiting is caused by high levels of stress and anxiety. Phobias such as fear of thunder and lightning can cause emotional vomiting, as well as motion sickness.

Inducing vomiting is a treatment if the dog has ingested something that would cause it harm. Contact a poison control center about treatment for substances that might cause damage if vomited up. However, the ingestion of common substances like chocolate, rat poison and antifreeze should be treated by inducing vomiting, and it is a good idea to carry a small bottle of hydrogen peroxide in a working pack worn by the handler for this purpose. Only a few cubic centimeters or one tablespoon is needed to get the dog to vomit. If vomiting does not occur within ten minutes, repeat the dose. Salt can also be used – drop it into the back of the dog’s throat. Follow up any known or suspected ingestion of a poison with a visit to the veterinarian.

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Vomiting should never be induced in an unconscious dog, as the dog may drown in the vomit. If a dog becomes unconscious, place the dog in a position to allow fluids to drain from the dog’s mouth and airway.

Photo by AceK9.com

Stress

Working dogs, especially patrol dogs, experience more stress than pet dogs. They are constantly exposed to new places and situations and asked to perform complex and difficult tasks. Training can be stressful. Apprehension work places great mental and physical demands on a dog.

A major source of stress for working dogs is their relationship with their handlers. Once a dog becomes bonded to a handler and accepts them as a pack leader, the dog is acutely aware of their handler’s emotions and psychological states. Some dogs are more sensitive than others in this regard, and sensitive dogs often will not work if their handler is upset or frustrated. Harder dogs may ignore their handlers and act defiant or avoid the handler or work. Handlers should be aware that their mental states affect their dogs – this includes conflicts with human family members at home, problems with co-

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workers, etc. Handlers should avoid training and working their dogs when they are upset, or at least learn to turn off those emotions when handling or being around their dogs.

The immediate signs of stress include:

1. Down or poor attitude 2. Lip licking, stretching, tongue flicks 3. Panting 4. Drooling (often seen with motion sickness and fear)

Photo by AceK9.com

5. Whale eyes (whites of the dog’s eyes show)

6. Displacement or “calming” behaviors (excessive scratching, yawning, sniffing the ground, ignoring what is going on)

7. Wanting to return to a place of safety, most commonly the dog’s vehicle

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Photo by AceK9.com

8. Yawning 9. Hackles 10. Cautious movements 11. Pushing up against the

handler, leaning excessively 12. Avoiding the handler or work

situations 13. Inability to rest, restlessness 14. Immediate hair shedding and

dander on skin 15. Unusual urination or defecation

(dog not being able to “go” at the appropriate times, or defecating before a stressful activity)

Stress will eventually produce more serious physical signs:

1. Diarrhea and vomiting 2. Lethargy or restlessness 3. Long term hair loss 4. Weight loss 5. Behavior problems 6. Chronic sickness 7. Increased susceptibility to disease and allergies

Dogs thrive on a regular schedule of meals, exercise, work and regular positive social contact with their pack members. By doing all they can to understand how dogs learn, think and behave, and how handlers affect their dog’s learning, thinking and behaving, handlers can minimize the stress in their dog’s lives and ensure that their dog lives a long and productive working life. Using positive reinforcement rather than punishment in training goes a long way to reducing stress during training.

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Photo by Elizabeth LaPointe

The effects of stress are seen in all aspects of the dog’s work. If a dog is stressed, its muscles will tense and the dog will not execute obedience commands quickly and smoothly. If the dog is worried about surmounting a physical obstacle, and its muscles are tense, it is much more likely to miss time a jump or misjudge a movement, leading to a risk of injury. Especially in agility or climbing and jumping, if a dog refuses to jump or move, the dog knows it is unsure of the outcome and often risks injury if the handler forces it to jump. A dog that jumped an obstacle successfully when it was not stressed may not be able to jump the same obstacle if it is under stress.

Photo by Elizabeth LaPointe

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If a dog is under psychological stress caused by severe distractions, handler stress, not knowing the task, etc., the dog will not perform well until the stressors are resolved. Dogs chosen for working tasks are usually “hard” dogs that don’t stress out easily. Unlike many pet dogs, they aren’t affected by the sound of gunfire, thunderstorms, chainsaws, etc. They aren’t influenced heavily by changes in locations and will work where ever they are rather than in places they are familiar with.

Hard dogs can be stressed out by too much work, too much training and too much pressure from their handlers. Emotional or psychological stress will show up as a temperament change in the dog, lethargy, unwillingness to work or concentrate on the task at hand. If stress is severe, the dog may lose its appetite, and commonly will have diarrhea and vomiting.

If a dog has been overworked, give the dog time off from work and mild exercise, play and positive social contact. Keep everything as positive and restful as possible. Electrolytes can be given to dogs that have been overworked physically, such as on a very long track or search in hot weather. Treatment for diarrhea should be started if the problem persists.

Photo by AceK9.com

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Working dog competitions are valuable as a way to motivate trainers and handlers to train towards higher levels of performance and also as a validation of the team’s performance. However, handlers that try to prepare for competitions at the last minute often put too much pressure on their dogs and stress out themselves and the dog. Be realistic about competitions. Don’t train so hard so that the dog’s ability to work is compromised, and be prepared to accept the performance the dog gives on the day of the trial as the dog’s best effort, because it is the dog’s best effort based on the training it has received. If the handler failed to prepare properly, then it is not the dog’s fault, but a sign that the handler needs to train more effectively.

Taken from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capsule_(pharmacy)

Administering Medications to Dogs

Medications come in several forms: liquids, pills or capsules, powders and ointments. Liquids should be administered by holding the dog’s mouth closed, tilting the dog’s head up to about a 45-degree angle, squirting the liquid into a pouch between the dog’s molars and lips, and then holding the dog’s head up and mouth closed until the dog swallows. Administer the liquid using an eyedropper or syringe if possible, and don’t pour it in so fast that the dog chokes. Stroking the dog’s throat can encourage it to swallow.

Pills or capsules can be buried in tasty food like canned dog food, if the dog will gulp it down. Monitor the dog to be sure the pill was consumed and not spit out. If the dog doesn’t eat the pill when disguised, the pill will have to be given to the dog by putting it in the dog’s mouth. To do this, open the dog’s mouth by grasping the upper jaw firmly with one hand, then use the other hand to gently press on the dog’s lips so

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that they press back against the dog’s pre-molars. If the dog resists opening its mouth, press harder on the lips on the teeth until the dog opens its mouth. Place the pill as far back on the center of the dog’s tongue as possible, close the dog’s mouth and hold it closed until the dog swallows. Put the pill in the center of the tongue, because the dog will be able to spit it out if the pill gets off to the side of the dog’s mouth

Powders can be mixed with canned food or some other treat the dog is likely to consume. If the dog still won’t take the powders mixed with something, place the powder or mix in the back center of the dog’s tongue as if it were a pill, then hold the dog’s mouth closed until it swallows.

Ointments are applied directly to the affected parts. Rub ointments in well and prevent the dog from licking them off. Ear ointments are applied by putting the nozzle of the ointment into the visible part of the dog’s ear canal. They should not be inserted deeply. Hold the dog’s ear or head securely to keep the dog from moving away or shaking its head. Once the ointment has been inserted in the ear, hold the dog’s head and massage the base of the ear to work it in. Once the dog’s head is released, the dog will shake its head and expel any medication that has not worked its way deep into the ear.

Eye ointments should be applied to the inner surface of the lower lid of the eye, not directly to the eye itself. Eye drops are dropped directly into the eye. Avoid touching the eyeball with the applicators. For more information, see Administering Eye Ointment to Your Pet or How to Administer Eye Drops to Your Pet

Parasites

A parasite is an organism that lives on or in another organism of another species and obtains its nutrients from the host organism. Dogs have internal parasites such as worms and external parasites such as fleas. Detecting, controlling and treating parasites are essential to the health of dogs and the people they live with, since these parasites can spread disease and also infect humans.

External parasites live on and in the skin. They feed on the dog’s tissue and cause irritation to the dog, often resulting in itching and scratching by the dog. The most common external parasites and their treatment are summarized below.

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Nymphal and adult deer ticks can be carriers of Lyme disease. Nymphs are about the size of a poppy seed. From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lyme_disease

Ticks are common in all but the most northern reaches of the United States. In themselves, they are not that detrimental in small numbers, but they carry a number of serious diseases. Deer ticks are very small and carry Lyme disease (http://www.petmd.com/dog/conditions/infectious-parasitic or http://bit.ly/sUh184) which is now very common in New England. Other ticks carry Rocky Mountain spotted fever (http://www.petmd.com/dog/conditions/infectious-

parasitic/c_dg_rocky_mountain_spotted_fever or http://bit.ly/KkUSmV) and ehrlichiosis

(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ehrlichiosis_(canine) or http://bit.ly/KkUSmV).

Female ticks attach themselves to an animal host, fill themselves with blood, then drop off and continue their reproductive cycle. Sometimes their cycle involves more than one host, such as a mouse in the case of “deer” ticks. Ticks live in brushy, grassy or woodsy areas, hanging on branches until they sense a host passing by. Then they may attach or drop on to the host, burrow into clothing or fur and attach their mouth parts to start the meal. If removed within a few hours, they don’t have time to transfer disease organisms, so regular inspections of the dog if it has been working in tick infested areas can help to remove the ticks before they spread disease. To remove a tick, grab the tick’s head as close to the skin as possible and pull it out. Tweezers are often needed. Avoid leaving any of the tick in the skin by grabbing the tick as close to the skin as possible. Ticks can be controlled in areas by mowing, cutting back brush and by spraying pesticides.

Modern preventatives for dogs include topical sprays, insect repellants, flea and tick collars and topical applications such as Frontline (see FRONTLINE® Plus). None of them are 100% effective, but they can help to reduce the chances of tick borne infectious diseases. Like all pesticides and potential toxins, they need to be used with care and often should not be used together. Consult with a veterinarian before their use, each veterinarian should know which products work best for their area and patient situation.

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A vaccine exists for Lyme disease, although it is not 100% effective. Veterinarians now routinely test for some tick borne diseases when they do heartworm testing on dogs, and regular testing can reveal a Lyme infection before it becomes chronic.

Taken from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flea

Fleas are a common parasite associated with dogs, cats and other small pets. They can also transmit disease and parasites, although this is uncommon in the northeast with the exception of the transmission of tapeworms (an internal parasite). However, bubonic plague and typhus are carried by fleas (http://armymedical.tpub.com/MD0589/MD05890015.htm or http://bit.ly/19MJVDM).

Fleas are found primarily on a dog’s back, hindquarters and around the base of the tail. Their fecal matter is made of digested blood, is dark colored and called flea dirt. Flea dirt is easier to see than the fleas themselves. Flea dirt will turn water a reddish color. Fleas feed on the dog’s blood then lay eggs on the dog. The eggs hatch out to become flea larvae, which turn into cocoons and become adults. The entire life cycle can take one month to twelve months depending on the availability of food and temperature and humidity.

Besides causing blood loss, fleas can cause allergic reactions in the dog that cause the dog to scratch, chew, loose hair and develop hot spots (bacterial infections). Dogs that have fleas often have tapeworms.

Fleas can be difficult to treat because only a small portion of the flea population exist on the animals in the house. Other fleas, eggs and larvae will be present where the animals live and stay. Once the dog has been treated, the dog’s bedding and living areas, including the dog’s vehicle, must be treated at the same time. Any other animals living in the house, like cats or other dogs must be treated. Vacuuming and cleaning the house as well as the dog’s living areas regularly goes a long way in the control of fleas. Control measures must be repeated over several weeks as succeeding generations of fleas hatch out.

Flea and mite treatment products contain powerful pesticides and chemicals. Some can be used on dogs and cats, some on dogs only. Handlers need to read all

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instructions when using control products, consult with their veterinarian and be careful if combining products. In more recent years, new, highly effective topical products have been developed like Frontline (see Frontline) which treat and prevent fleas and other parasites in dogs. For more information on fleas, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flea .

Mites are a tiny parasite that lives in and on the skin of animals. In dogs and other canids, they cause mange. The two most common types are sarcoptic mange and demodectic mange. Both are characterized by hair loss and itching. Both types of mange need to be diagnosed by a veterinarian, although often this has to be done by symptoms because the mites can be very difficult to isolate on the dog.

Hair loss and sores from mange, taken from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mange

Sarcoptic mange is also called scabies because in its advanced stages the dog will have extreme hair loss and develop crusty scabs. The dog scratches and chews itself constantly because of the intense itching produced by female mites burrowing into the dog’s skin to lay eggs. The eggs hatch out and produce new adults in about three weeks. Like fleas, mange treatments have to be repeated at intervals to kill succeeding generations of mites. With sarcoptic mange, hair loss is most often seen on the margins of the ears, the face, elbows, belly, chest and legs. Whenever a dog shows intense chewing and scratching paired with any hair loss, mange should be suspected. If one dog in a household has mange, then all dogs in the house need to be treated. Dog mange can be spread to humans, but the mites will not reproduce on humans.

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Nasty dips and strong pesticides can be used to treat mange, but recently Revolution and other parasite controls (Ivermectin) are available from veterinarians that can be administered orally or topically are used and are much more effective and convenient to use. See http://www.vetinfo.com/mange-treatment-ivermectin.html or http://bit.ly/Kmpe85 for more information.

Demodectic mange also causes hair loss and some itching, although not as intense as that of sarcoptic mange. It is also called “red mange.” It is most common in young dogs between three and twelve months of age when the dog’s immune system may be stressed by rapid growth. Hair loss is usually around the dog’s eyes, mouth and front legs. Demodectic mange can exist in a localized form and in a generalized form that leads to significant hair loss https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Demodicosis. Treatment is similar to sarcoptic mange.

Whatever the cause, any itching and hair loss in a dog should lead to a trip to the veterinarian for a diagnosis. Sarcoptic mange, in particular, can progress rapidly and will make the dog miserable very quickly.

Ringworm on a human arm.

Taken from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dermatophytosis

Ringworm is a fungus that can cause hair loss and a red ring in dogs. It is contagious and can be transferred to humans. Unlike mange, the areas of hair loss are circular in form. Treatment is usually very effective and includes clipping the dog and applying medicated shampoos and ointments.

Internal Parasites live inside the dog, in the gut or other internal organs. The most common internal parasites of dogs are listed below.

Roundworms or Ascarids, are large, long, white string like worms that can often be seen in the feces of affected dogs. They live in the intestines and can be 1 to 7 inches in length. The female worms lay eggs that leave the body in feces and can live in the soil for years. For more information, visit - http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/roundworms-dogs .

Dogs are infected with roundworms when they eat the eggs or larvae with soil, infected before birth by worms in their mother, or by eating a prey animal that has contracted developing larvae. Most puppies are born infected, so puppies are routinely

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treated by breeders as they grow. Healthy adult dogs rarely have serious cases of worms, but they should be routinely checked for worms at annual health checks. Veterinarians can examine the dog’s stools for worm eggs. Round worms are easily treated with wormers that can be provided by a veterinarian. Severe infestations may cause vomiting, weight loss and poor health.

Tapeworms

Adult tapeworm. Taken from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taenia_solium

Tapeworms live the dog’s intestines. They can be less than an inch long or up to several feet long. They have a head and numerous body segments that contain eggs. The body segments are shed with the dog’s feces and look like flattened grains of rice except that they move and wiggle when first expelled by the dog.

Tapeworms are carried by fleas. When a dog ingests an infected flea, the tapeworm hatches out and develops. Some species of tapeworms have an intermediate host, like rabbits or other prey animals. The tapeworm eggs develop into larvae that migrate through the host and live in the host’s body or muscle. When a dog or wild canid eats the prey

animal, the larvae are released and develop into a mature tapeworm. Humans can become infected with tapeworm larvae from contact with tapeworm eggs, but this infection is rare.

Dogs tolerate moderate cases of tapeworms, but severe infestations can cause diarrhea and weight loss. Treatment of tapeworms is usually very effective and easy with modern wormers that can be obtained from a veterinarian. Any dog that has fleas and tapeworms must have both treated or the fleas will re-infest the dog with tapeworms. For more information, see http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+2090&aid=769

Hookworms are another type of worm that lives in the dog’s intestine, but they are more serious than roundworms or tapeworms. They are small, thin worms that are approximately ¼ to ½ inch in length. They fasten to the lining of the small intestine and draw blood. Their eggs are spread through dog feces, and

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larvae can penetrate the skin and migrate through the body to the gut. Humans can become infected with hookworms through ingestion or skin migration.

Hookworms can deplete a dog, especially puppies or young dogs. Symptoms in adult dogs include diarrhea, weight loss, weakness and anemia. Feces may contain blood or be dark in color. The diarrhea often has a mucous coating and a foul odor. A diagnosis of hookworms must be made by microscopic examination of the dog’s feces by a veterinarian.

Worming agents are used for treatment and must be repeated two weeks following the initial treatment. The dog’s housing and exercise areas must be disinfected also, and any feces picked up and disposed of.

Many internal parasites are spread by dog feces. Working dog handlers can avoid some infections by being careful where they exercise their dogs, avoiding areas where a large number of dogs are kept or allowed to defecate.

Heartworms in the preserved heart of a dog.

Both pictures from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dirofilaria_immitis Picture of heartworm microfilaria

Heartworms are a parasitic worm that lives in the heart of dogs and wild canids. Heartworms are spread by mosquitoes and were once confined to the south, but they have now spread to much of the U.S.

The heartworm life cycle starts when an infected mosquito bites a dog. During the bite, the heartworm larvae, called microfilaria, are deposited in the dog. They undergo several changes and eventually migrate to the dog’s circulatory system and

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travel to the heart where they become adult worms. It takes approximately six months for mature warms to develop. Adult worms can be ten to fifteen inches long.

Once established in the heart, the adult worms interfere with the ability of blood to flow freely. The extra burden on the heart can cause heart failure and cardiac arrest.

Most dogs show no symptoms in the early part of infection, and the symptoms depend on the degree of infection. The most common signs are a soft cough, shortness of breath and lack of stamina. The cough often occurs most frequently after exercise or activity. Weight loss is also common. As the disease progresses, the dog’s cough and weakness gets worse, and the dog may die of heart failure.

Heartworms are diagnosed by detecting the presence of microfilaria in the blood. This is now easily done with a test at the veterinarian’s office. Treatment of adult heartworms is done with arsenic compounds and is risky because, as the heartworms die and break up, they may block blood vessels in the lungs. Treatment also involves killing off the microfilaria in the dog’s blood.

Prevention is the best way to avoid heartworms. Several types of preventative exist that are given orally or topically to the dog on a monthly basis, or at other intervals according to veterinarian instruction. The preventative will kill off any microfilaria the dog has been infected with for the previous 30 days, if it is a monthly preventative. It DOES NOT prevent infection after administration, but kills off microfilaria present when it is given. Thus, preventatives have to be administered for the period of time that mosquitoes are present in the environment and for 30 days afterwards. There are other parameters, like the mean daily temperature, that affect heartworm infection, but it is important to remember that heartworm preventatives should be given regularly according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Some manufacturers will pay for heartworm treatment if their instructions are followed and the dog contracts heartworm.

Dogs over six months of age MUST be tested for heartworms before being placed on preventative, because a dog with heartworms may die if put on preventative. Veterinarians now have a simple blood test that is given once or twice a year and also screens for Lyme and other tick born diseases at the same time.

New information exists that a strain of heartworm in the Mississippi river valley has become resistant to the more common preventatives (see “Time to Step It Up,” by Mary Straus, The Whole Dog Journal, Vol. 14 (7) pp 5 -9). Be sure to check with your veterinarian or do research on this subject if working or traveling in these areas. Mosquito repellants will also help to prevent heartworm. Dogs must be tested for heartworms every year – some veterinarians recommend every six months.

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Visit http://bit.ly/vfTOuQ or http://www.heartwormsociety.org/pet-owner-resources/heartworm.html for more general information on heartworms.

Parasite Summary

Most parasites and their associated diseases can be controlled or prevented with good daily care and maintenance. If the dog is outside in the field during tick and mosquito season, a flea and tick spray, bug repellants or flea collar or topical preventative should be used. Read all the associated literature on these products as most contain powerful pesticides that may not be able to be combined with other products. Dogs should be examined daily for ticks and other parasites as part of their daily grooming, and checked after field use during tick season. Any ticks found need to be removed. A heartworm preventative should be part of the dog’s maintenance regimen, as well as regular testing for worms and heartworm during annual veterinarian health exams. Handlers should keep their dogs from contact with wild animals, and be wary of contact with stray dogs and other pets that are not kept in clean living conditions. If a working dog has to be used in an unclean house or other area for a search, make sure the dog’s flea and tick preventatives are being utilized. A good working relationship with a quality veterinarian should help working dog handlers keep up to date on current dog health issues as well as new preventatives.

Diseases

This section is only a review of the most common diseases associated with domestic dogs.

Giardia protozoon from Wikipedia or Giardia - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Giardia is actually a protozoon that might be considered an internal parasite. It is found in water in the outdoors and spread from one water source to another by animals. It can live in the intestinal tract of dogs, other animals and humans and often causes no symptoms until the individual is under some sort of stress that compromises the

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immune system or intestinal flora. The most common symptom is diarrhea, sometimes mixed with mucous and blood. Diagnosis is made by a fecal examination where the protozoa are found in fecal matter or by using an ELISA test on fecal matter. Sometime multiple examinations have to be done to detect the protozoa.

Treatment for Giardia involves medications and carefully cleaning the environment where the dog or other infected animals live. Giardia can be spread to humans, so proper hygiene should be used when picking up and disposing of dog feces. Prevention of Giardia would be to supply clean drinking water for the dog in the field and keep the dog from drinking water from water sources in the field.

More comprehensive information on Giardia can be found at http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+2102&aid=739 or http://bit.ly/KmpMuG.

Distemper is a virus that is highly contagious in animals. It is prevented by vaccination in adult dogs, so that it is primarily seen only in puppies or unvaccinated dogs. Some dogs have few symptoms and effects, while others develop fever, vomiting, and diarrhea. Like parvovirus and coronavirus, distemper should be treated by a veterinarian as dogs can become debilitated and die within a few days. Treatment in severe cases involves antibiotics for secondary infections, hydration with intravenous solutions and treatment for diarrhea. Like parvovirus and coronavirus, distemper can be prevented through vaccinations, and is a routine part of dog vaccination schedules. More information on distemper can be found at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canine_distemper

Hepatitis is a virus that is that is contagious and is also prevented through vaccination. It has two forms, an acute form and a fatal form. The acute form has symptoms of high fever, bloody diarrhea, blooding vomiting, and loss of appetite. The fatal form produces few symptoms before sudden death. The dog’s eyes may be affected by hepatitis, producing a clouding of the eye known as “blue eye” that usually clears up with time. The diagnosis of hepatitis is by blood test and treatment is similar to that of distemper. More information on canine hepatitis can be found at Infectious canine hepatitis - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

Leptospirosis is a bacterium that is carried by other animals and spread through urine and feces. It is most common in wet environments and during periods of rain and flooding. It is killed by freezing, so infections are more common during warm weather. The symptoms are similar to that of other viruses: fever, fatigue, loss of appetite, bloody stools, diarrhea and vomiting. Dogs with leptospirosis may also bleed from the mouth and have a brown coating on the tongue. A blood test is performed to diagnose the disease, and it is treated with antibiotics and supportive therapy. Leptospirosis is prevented with vaccinations; however, the vaccines have only limited

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duration and are not effective against all strains. They may also cause adverse reactions, so many veterinarians do not recommend them for dogs that are not frequently exposed to wet and outdoor environments. Leptospirosis can be contracted by humans and can be fatal. For more information, see http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+1556&aid=454 or Leptospirosis in Dogs.

Parvovirus is a highly contagious virus that can be prevented with vaccinations. The virus is persistent and can be carried on clothing and footwear as well as by infected dogs. The virus is shed in the infected dog’s feces. To prevent spread of the disease, kennels and other areas the dog frequents must be disinfected. Parvovirus has similar symptoms to other viruses as well as infecting the heart and causing heart failure. Because most adult dogs are now vaccinated against parvovirus, it is most common in puppies. For more information, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canine_parvovirus .

Coronavirus is another highly contagious virus that can be prevented with vaccinations. It is uncommon in adult dogs, but dogs in areas where it is common should be vaccinated for it. For more information, see http://bit.ly/smNPpH or http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+1556&aid=415 .

Figure 2. Animal rabies by county in Maine, January 1-December 31, 2012 (N=91) http://www.maine.gov/dhhs/mecdc/infectious-disease/epi/zoonotic/rabies/documents/2013PHUPD001MaineRabies4thQtrUpdate%5b1%5d.pdf

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CDC map showing wildlife vectors for rabies

Map of terrestrial rabies reservoirs in the United States during 2009. Raccoon rabies virus variant is present in the eastern United States, Skunk rabies in the Central United States and California, Fox rabies in Texas, Arizona, and Alaska, and Mongoose rabies in Puerto Rico. From http://www.cdc.gov/rabies/location/usa/surveillance/wild_animals.html or http://bit.ly/JwmB3k

Rabies is a serious disease because it is almost 100% fatal and can be contracted by humans. Rabies is prevented by vaccination and most states require that all dogs be vaccinated against rabies. It is a virus that infects the central nervous system. It is spread by contact with the saliva and body fluids of infected animals. The virus does not live long outside the body. Rabies is not uncommon in the US. Wild animals that are infected with rabies may display aggression, a lack of fear of humans and other unusual behavior. They may foam at the mouth or drool. If a dog is bitten by a wild animal, the dog should be taken to the veterinarian as soon as possible for treatment. If possible, the wild animal should be killed (but not by shooting in the head), refrigerated and tested by the state’s disease control lab. Testing will determine if the animal had rabies and help to determine a course of treatment. Contact your local fish and wildlife agency for information on testing and rabies in wild animals. For more information on rabies in Maine, see http://1.usa.gov/sMiiaJ or http://www.maine.gov/dhhs/boh/ddc/epi/zoonotic/rabies/index.shtml

For more general information rabies, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rabies

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Kennel Cough or Bordetella is a contagious respiratory disease that produces a harsh, dry cough. It usually runs its course in a week or two, but it can become chronic. A vaccination for kennel cough exists, but it does not prevent all cases because various strains in an area vary. Many boarding facilities or kennels require kennel cough vaccinations before admitting dogs to the facility. For more information, see: http://bit.ly/vAdEPw or http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+2102&aid=452 .

Map of US from CDC showing Lyme disease cases for 2017

From http://www.cdc.gov/lyme/stats/index.html

Lyme disease is carried by ticks, specifically, the deer tick. The white-footed mouse is an intermediate host, and tick numbers follow the mouse populations. The symptoms of Lyme disease include a mild fever, lethargy, joint swelling, swollen lymph nodes, loss of appetite and lameness. A blood test can detect Lyme antibodies and is routinely given to dogs by veterinarians when they test for heartworm. A positive test means the dog has been exposed to Lyme. The dog may have fought the disease off, or it may have an active case. Active cases are treated with antibiotics. The earlier the disease is treated, the better the outcome. Dogs with advanced Lyme disease may

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suffer kidney failure and chronic arthritis if they are not treated. Handlers whose dogs work in the outdoors should be aware of the possibility of Lyme disease in their dogs. It is common in working dogs in southern New Hampshire and southern New England, even in dogs that have been vaccinated against Lyme.

Various vaccines exist for dogs for Lyme disease. They are not 100% effective, but they do seem to offer some protection. Working dog handlers should use a combination of tick control and Lyme testing and vaccination to help protect their dogs with the help and guidance of their veterinarian. For more information on Lyme disease in dogs, see http://bit.ly/rV1OnA .

The “Undercover police dog” at a public demo

Photo by Jillian Tripp