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FREENo. 4

Oct2012

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Also inside :•What’supinOctober

•Practicalinformation

•BasicsofIndonesianlanguage

+MapofYogyakarta

Road trip to SuroloyoThe restaurant of the monthMerapi 2 years agoJavanese wisdomJogja & MeInterview with a decision maker

Edito

In the previous editions, we have been exploring the beach in the South, the volcano in the North, caves in the East… We were remaining with the exploration of the Western Region of Yogyakarta to end this series of first articles linked to the four Cardinal Points. We are now through, with the Suroloyo peak as the muse of this

chapter. Just have a look at the view… The Editor

General InformationMonthly magazine

EditorialEditor in Chief : Sukamdani .S.Contributors : Patrick Vanhoebrouck Egbert Wits Bernard MarchalCopies : 5 000

Produced byPT CeriseJl SuryodiningratanGriya Surio Asri 2 No. A2 - YogyakartaTel. +62 274 372 971 - info@yogyabisnis.com

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Summary• Road trip to Suroloyo. 5• Retaurant of the month: The House of Raminten. 9• Merapi 2 years ago. 11• Javanese wisdom. 13• Jogja & Me - Episode III. 17• Interview with Nana - Nanamia Pizzeria. 18• What’s up in October in Yogyakarta. 21• Practical information. 21• Basics of indonesian language. 21• Map of Yogyakarta. 23

Edito

In Indonesia, when driving in the city can be a bit of a sport for those who don’t have the habit, driving in the landscape is on the contrary very comfortable. Because ways are empty while getting out of big roads ; because as soon as a hill comes, you’ll find one corner after the other, breaking the straight monotony of the asphalt, then having a day on a motorbike can become more than pleasant.. Still you need to know where to go and what to see! Yogyakarta is surrounded in the West by several mountains expending up to the volcanos of the North of the territory. A perfect place to be when you appreciate panoramas.

Here is an essential point not to suffer too much while driving: having a motorbike in a good condition because the road to Suroloyo is sometimes going up in a very strong way, and being two people on a simple scooter could be of a problem, especially when driving up the hill. Another practical advice: think of a jacket. Suroloyo is situated approximately 1 500 m high, it’s a bit cool.

After checking up everything, you can start the road trip. From Yogyakarta, you will first need to join the main axe Jl. Godean. This road is in the Western part of Yogyakarta. Here, no real difficulty, it is

a big road with a bit of traffic, but easy. Straight on (towards the West), after the third light, and after passing the Progo river, take on the right (Jl. Mungkid Nanggulan). You are now leaving big roads to drive on a straight line surrounded with rice fields. The town is getting far and you are coming closer to the mountains. After 3 km, you will cross a river. 2 km further you will find a crossroad with a light. Take the direction to Samigaluh (on the left). You will then be driving alongside River Tinalah. You will find in front of you a beautiful landscape, with both a winding road and a rocky river, all this surrounded with mountain. Here, some panoramas are simply delicious.

Destination of the Month Road trip to Suroloyo

The next part of the trip is easy, as you just have to follow the main road up to Samigaluh. Don’t forget to stop on the way to have a look at the Samigaluh Waterfalls. 75m high, it has a particularity: it is completely dry during the dry season. But no problem, even without water the stop is worth it, just to observe the erosion on the rock face.

Let’s go on with the road trip, destination Suroloyo. There, steep rice fields have nothing to be jealous of those in Ubud. Generous green curves, or even turned yellow because of the sun, whatever you see is just pleasure for the eyes. The altitude is higher and higher. You will have to use the first gear quite

often while going through parts of a 30% gradient road. You are driving to the sky, without an end.

Arriving at Suroloyo, park your motorbike. You will start your last climbing, but walking this time. Stairs with 250 steps will bring you to the top. But what are you going to find out up there? One of the most beautiful view of the area. There, on the boundaries of Yogyakarta’s territory, you’ll find a wonderful view on a series of mountains, valleys which seem to be far away, Sumbing, Merapi and Merbabu volcanos, by nice weather. The Borobudur temple is also part of the panorama. Spectacular! After some hours driving, you can at last feel Java. An extraordinary land that you have to deserve.

Once you find your eyes full of pictures to take your breath away, you ‘ll have to come back on earth. The motorbike drives for you. You have been suffering soo much while driving up, that the way to come back is just like a huge slide towards Yogyakarta.

You are free to take either the same road to come back as the one you took to come or go round Gerbosari , Sidoharjo and Banjarasri. The way down should bring you back to Jl. Mungkid Nanggulan, close to the rice fields. Just follow the direction of Yogyakarta.

JM

Restaurant of the Month

Raminten is the name of the character played by Hamza HS every Sunday in the local Yogyakarta sitcom Pengkolan. And just like the character in the sitcom, the restaurant is original.

Open since the 26th of December 2008, The House of Raminten never stops to amaze the guests, both for its exuberance and its refinement. Indeed, The House of Raminten offers customers a feast for the eyes as well as the appetite. From the presentation of the plates to the interior decoration, from the cups to the clothing of staff and personnel - everything is neat down to the last detail. The motto of this restaurant is “unique, antique, elegant”, and without a doubt this combination is successful.

Located in the district of Kota Baru, in the very center of Yogyakarta, The House of Ramiten offers a tasty time for both lunch and dinner, or an interesting place to blow a few moments.

On the menu: Javanese cuisine, including chicken skewers, beef, soups, white rice or fried rice with an enthusiastic, yet polished presentation. To accompany the dishes, a wide selection of cocktails, mixing tastes and colors, leave it hard to make a final choice. For dessert, The House of Raminten offers a sweet touch available in various ice creams and fried fruits.

The senses are king here: sight, smell, taste, as

well as hearing - the final touch is the traditional Gamelan music which plays as a trademark and will accompany your meal. This is much more than an eating experience - it is a trip into one of the most unique restaurants in Kota Baru.

The House of Raminten knows how to treat their guests. Those who pay attention to detail will be satisfied. Everything is chosen. Objects of decoration, sometimes ancient, sometimes modern, form a surprising and agreeable atmosphere. All of these details make it a one of a kind experience where it is just simply good to eat.

For information and bookings: The House of RamintenJl. FM. Noto no. 7, Kotabaru YogyakartaTelp. +62-274-547315

JM

The House of Raminten

Merapi 2 years ago

Exactly two years ago, Merapi was erupting, which ended being the strongest eruption in the past 20 or 30 years. I had the opportunity to experiment it just close. I will always remember the impressions I got at that time.

13% of volcanos worldwide are in Indonesia, with 129 active sites : Merapi is one of those, but it is different in two ways: first, it could be called an “urban” volcano because it is nearby the big city of Yogyakarta, and also because of the density of population you can find in the 4 districts around. Hundreds of hamlets are setlled on the dangerous slopes of this mountain of fire, sometimes even only few kilometers away from the crater. Moreover it is one of the most active and most dangerous of the country. But why is such a big part of the population living in such a dangerous place? The answer is simple : the soil is extremely fertile. All around Merapi you will find a huge pantry of a very big zone where the density of population is one of the highest in the world.

In September 2010, the volcano woke up again. In October, the seismic activity brought the managers of the Centre for Geology in Yogyakarta to put up the alert to level 2, then 3 (Merapi Siaga). On October 24th, they declared level 4 : Merapi Awas. The evacuation of the population started. Only in Sleman District, 100 000 people were moved. On October 26th, the first glowing smoke was going down to 4 km from the top of the mountain, destroying Kinaredjo village, and killing the first 30 people, including Pak Maridjan, the “guardian” of the volcano. Pak Maridjan was a very sweet person and he was also the one that the Sultan chose as the one to talk to the volcano (this comes from an ancient myth considering the volcano as a sacred place).

Pak Maridjan had refused to be evacuated. He was 83 years old. And in a way, he chose his own way of

dying. In the next days the volcano became more violent and several glowing smokes fell on the South Side. On November 5th, there was a disastrously distructive eruption at night. The avalanche of ash and incandescent rocks reached 17km from the top and killed 200 people.

I had arrived in Yogyakarta at the end of September, for the 40th time within 26 years travelling through Indonesia.

As a non professional film-maker, my documentaries are all about Indonesia. For this trip, I had some projects to film a movie but quite far from Merapi. I easily convinced myself to stay close to the volcano and drive around with my motorbike, again and again, the camera between the knees and the stand over the shoulder, as close as possible to the population which would have to face again some strong hardship. I got enough, both in pictures and emotions.

Conversations with humble and simple Javanese people made me feel more than ever some important characteristics of this charming population : first the ability of hanging together and living with no privacy without arguing, without complaining, without rebelling. Western people should try to get inspiration from them and follow their example. When they have to face a natural disaster , they show too much of complaining and useless rebellion against administration, accused of every single negligence.

Then comes a kind of indifference, even close to carelessness. Before the eruption, when I was asking people, I always had the same answer: we are not afraid. We are used to this situation. This kind of smiling resignation can be annoying the observer but do those people down in the social scale have any other choice?

Merapi eruption - October 2010 - by Bernard Marchal

Do they have enough knowledge to decide about another destiny?

In the refugee camps close to the volcano (Humbulharjo, Hargobinangun), thousands of people have been living in a high precarious condition for one month. Most of them were showing the same kind of fatalism. I will never forget the face of an old man I interviewed : he had three cows. He had lost them. His house had been destroyed.

But was he thinking of what he lost? “No, this is not important “, he answered smiling. “My kids and grand kids are alive.” And to my question : When the volcano comes back to normal, will you start a new life? He answered “No, I will have the same life like before, I will go back and cut grass. In my house, I will not be afraid”.

I saw the same persistance and the same courage in Pak Suradi’s answers, a farmer I met in November, while travelling around above Cangkringan. He brought me to the huge area covered by ash and showed me the supposed place of his house, with nothing remaining. “Do you want to go and live on another island, less dangerous? - No, here is where I want to live again. - Do you feel angry against Merapi? - No, not angry. - Are you still friends? - Yes, still friends. True. Still friends.”

That’s life for some 5 million Indonesians throughout the archipelago: live close to those mountains of fire, bringing death....and life.

BM

Javanese Wisdom

Suroloyo peak

JUMENENG JATINING GUSTI“ Placing the divine self ”

Imagine a place high up the hills, numerous rolling peaks covered in green lush vegetation traversed by misty clouds…a bit reminiscent of an ancient Chinese lithography. With its quiet atmosphere, dramatic panoramas over the Borobudur plain of Kedu, its tropical cover and traditional Javanese kampung, Suroloyo Peak has touristic attributes all of its own. Access by road to the peak is in itself an adventurousjourney. Once there, visitors can leisurely walk about the numerous trails between coffee and spice tree plantations, take in the faraway views from several peaks, meditate at nearly 12 sacred spots including a hilltop freshwater spring, and when the misty clouds drown the whole place in a mysterious fog, recede at last to cheap comfortable bungalows (PondokWisataSuroloyo) or homestays with villagers for a meal and the hot cup of local Arabica. The silence permeating the peak will relax one after the hustle and bustle of Yogyakarta’s heat. A sense of detachment from earthly worries is almost a guarantee.

The place was known and mentioned since early Javanese kingdoms of the 7th century, when the Sanjaya Hindu and the Cailendra Buddhist monument-building dynasties were ruling over vast areas of the Southeast Asian region from their Central Javanese capitals. At that time already, known commonly as the Djawadwipa or Early Mataram era, the Suroloyo Peak was considered a highly sacred spot due to the Tantric belief that it

housed the residence of the Hindu Gods mentioned in the Veda’s. According to ancient accounts left by Chinese pilgrims visiting the fabled capital of the dynasty located somewhere in the triangle between present-day Bagelen (Purworejo), Dieng plateau and the Unggaran Volcano, the peak was a feared place because of its haunted characteristics. It was seen as definitely not suitable for human settlements. It might be assumed that only kings and yogis were qualified to reach these heights to recite prayers and leave auspicious offerings to Bathara Guru (Shiva) and His divine pantheon.

In later history, the Suroloyo peak kept its legendary title of ‘Place of the Gods’ even through the rise of MojopahitEmpire and the subsequent Muslim dynasties in the later Mataram era of which the Yogyakarta Sultans and Solo Sunans became the heirs. It remained a favorite ritual place for spiritual seekers following the Kejawen mysticism also known as Javanism. Important figures of Javanese history chose to meditate there to find solutions to their respective problems, be it PangeranBenowo from the 16th century Padjang Sultanate, the Saint SunanKalijaga or the famous 17th century Sultan Agung of Yogyakarta. The latter made Suroloyo one of his favorite hermitages, dealing as he was with the expansion and ruling of his vast Mataram Empire. Sunan Kalijaga was known to have created the modern-day Wayang shadow-puppet shows based on the Mahabharata and Ramayana epics.

He designed the ‘Semar bangun Kahyangan’ sub-story, which describes the sacred Javanese ancestor Semar and his own dwelling on the Suroloyo amidst the higher Gods of the Hindu Pantheon. Semar is known by Javanese to be an intermediate between humans and the Divine, always available to offer wise counseling to the earnest spiritual seekers to overcome life’s challenges. You will find statues of

Semar and his three clownish sons Petruk, Gareng and Bagong welcoming you near the peak as they characterize the liminal gateway between humans and the Divine Beings.

In a more Javanese spiritual sense, the ‘Place of the Gods’ is approached by mystics with the belief that Shiva or God is the perfection of reality. Ina process of self-reflection, that divine perfection is to be found within one’s own heart (Gusti = Bagusing Ati) and as such the deeper self can be allegorically compared to a residence of a multitude of gods with different qualities. To find God within oneself means to apprehend untainted reality. For Javanese spiritualists, life itself should be regarded as a continuous communication with God or perfect Reality as it is held within the control of God at all times. That means that if this communication is somehow obstructed, life will be running against the law of Reality, in essence thoughts, speech and actions will be wrongly applied. This may be regarded as ignorance which will in turn inevitably lead to suffering. A place like Suroloyo charged with vital power can bring freshness, peace and calmness to a seeker’s mind which is open to connect to it, helping one in training the subtle feeling (olah rasa). In kejawen philosophy this inherent capacity in turn stimulates the growth of Pranowo or clear-lighted spiritual thinking, or the awakened Buddha within in more Buddhist terms. No wonder that a place such as the Suroloyo Peak is so sought after when Javanese find themselves desperate for spiritual problem-solving ammunition.

Moko Pramusanto and Patrick Vanhoebrouck

Jogja & Me: Why people make Jogja their Home?

This month’s Jogja & Me required driving up 45 minutes towards a volcano. In Pakem, about 10 kilometers from Merapi’s destructive crater, beautifully located amidst green hills and cool mountain air lies Bambu Nusa Verde. BNV, as it is called short, is a bamboo tissue culture laboratory and greenhouse dedicated to provide elite bamboo genotypes to be planted and cultivated on bamboo plantation in the Asia-Pacific region. Right next to the lab and all the adorable little elite bamboo plants lives the friendly Marc Peeters.

Marc has been in Indonesia since 1977. Telecommunications used to be his business and Jakarta the place to be. “Telcom was still a niche market back then. I was working to set up Telkom and Indosat at the time. After being in the telcom business for 30 years I decided to start my own company.” Unfortunately, or maybe fortunately, as we will find out, things didn’t go as planned. Marc’s telcom endeavors failed. But this never stopped him. “The beauty of today’s age is that we can learn anything we want. It’s real easy, you don’t even have to leave the house.”

Marc bumped into bamboo by chance. He got a call from a colleague whom’s daughter was coming to Indonesia to set up bamboo growing installations. “I got interested and started studying bamboo from A to Z. Slowly I became totally fascinated by it. Through the initial contact I got acquainted with Belgian Jan Oprins, who has studied and propagated bamboo for years and is known worldwide for his achievements with bamboo tissue culture technology.” In 2006 it was Jan Oprins who set up BNV to propagate tropical bamboo species. Not long after, Marc came to Jogja to study more about bamboo. After living and studying bamboo in the hills of Pakem, Marc decided to go to the 2009 World Bamboo Congress in Bangkok. Which changed everything. “I discovered the whole world is involved in this bamboo movement. I found my new niche. Bamboo is the green gold of the future.”

Listening to Marc’s stories, tales of an inspired man, it’s a shame bamboo is considered ‘poor man’s timber’ in Indonesia. Bamboo’s potential, both environmentally and industrially, is enormous. It’s a CO2 champion -’it eats dioxide’-, retains water, a single seed can produce over 25.000 plants and bamboo can be harvested repeatedly, without cutting it down entirely: it simply grows back quickly. There’s over 1001 end products: paper, clothes, furniture, panels, flooring, timber, handicraft, pallets, charcoal, you can even use it to raise energy. Bamboo’s waste is turned into compost easily, which in turn is an excellent fertilizer.

“Traditionally Indonesia used to make paper from bamboo, there were even some factories. But they all closed down and were sold for metal scrap. Simply because there was no more bamboo available. I even found a reference that in the early 20th century people in Sulawesi (Gorontalo) made clothes from bamboo. They chewed the bamboo to get the fibers needed to start weaving.”

Living in Jogja is a blessing for Marc. “In Jakarta I only go out if it’s absolutely necessary.” With hardly no traffic and everything in close distance Jogja is more inviting. An antique lover and keris (traditional Indonesian dagger) collector Marc likes to stroll around Pasar Klewer, or visit antique boutiques in town. “The Sono Budoyo library is also great place. The old Dutch books there are full of interesting stories.”

Never a dull moment with this modest Belgian bamboo pioneer. “We can only help God a little and that’s what we’re doing here.....”

EW

Episode III: Marc Peeters from Belgium

Interview with a decision maker

JM: Can you tell us about the story of Nanamia Pizzeria, date of creation, evolution ?Nanamia Pizzeria opened its doors for the first time in September 10th 2007. From a small Italian Warung with only 7 tables and 7 employees (some of them are still with Nanamia today) we have developed into a restaurant serving more than 100 people at the same time on 216 sqm. The uniqueness is still preserved by its Mediterranean artistic atmosphere, wood fire oven, ambience music and authentic Italian food.

JM: Before running Nanamia Pizzeria, what were you doing, what kind of activity ?I was an architect and was active in that field.

JM: Can you tell us who mainly are your customers ? (students, expats, locals…)All kinds of people come to Nanamia. Local and international customers, everybody is welcome.

JM: You just celebrated the 5 years of Nanamia Pizzeria, first of all, congratulation for that. When you started – 5 years ago- how many other Italian restaurant were existing in Yogyakarta ? Also, why did you decide to set up an Italian restaurant ?Thank you ! When we started with Nanamia there was already one Italian restaurant in Yogyakarta. We opened almost at the same time but with a different

concept and customer target. Unfortunately that restaurant is now closed already. Italian cuisine is one of my favorite cuisines and I always wanted to bring the real Italian cuisine with all its delicacy to the people of Yogyakarta.

JM: In your opinion, what your customers prefer in Nanamia Pizzeria Restaurant ? (food, ambiance, service …) ?I think it’s the mix of ambience, food and service which brings everybody to come again to Nanamia. People can be relaxing from all their daily activities, refresh, meet their friends and enjoy themselves.

JM: What are the dishes mainly sold to your customer ? Pizza, pastas, or other ?Our bestseller is naturally pizza but the restaurant offers so much more. Some people also come for coffee and dessert.

JM: Today, Nanamia Pizzeria is a restaurant, but you also provide a delivery service. Which activity is the biggest one ? On site restaurant or delivery ? Yes, thank you. It took us quite some time to establish this service to as what it is known today with its swift delivery to all areas in Yogyakarta. We do private deliveries and deliver to companies as well; we deliver to companies more during lunch hours and in the evening to homes.

Name: NanaTitle: General ManagerCompany: Nanamia Pizzeria Activity: Italian restaurantNationality : IndonesianAddress of the head office: Jl Mozes Gatotkaca B 11-16, Gejayan - Yogyakarta, 0274 - 556494

e-mail : nanamiapizzeriajogja@gmail.com

JM: On average, what is the percentage of delivery service order activity compare to the global activity ?It is difficult to answer. Let say that although we provide delivery service, most of our customers prefer to go to our restaurant.

JM: Concerning the delivery activity, do you cover the whole Yogyakarta, or does the delivery area is limited ?We cover the whole city without minimum order.

JM: In your opinion, why Indonesian people like to eat Italian food or Pizzas ? Indonesian people love good food !

JM: You are definitely a self made woman. Do you have other projects for the future ? Branding the name, opening a new restaurant in Yogyakarta, or in an other city?Thank you but I could not have done it without

all the support of my team, family, friends and certainly not without Nanamia lovers.

Something new will be coming out soon. Stay tuned on Facebook Nanamia!! nanamiapizzeriajogja@gmail.com

JM

restaurant - travel - guesthouse fair trade shop - yoga studio

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What’s up in October 2012

Basics of Indonesian language Practical information1: Satu2: Dua3: Tiga4: Empat5: Lima6: Enam7: Tujuh8: Delapan9: Sembilan10: Sepuluh100: Seratus1 000: Seribu1 000 000: SejutaBeach: Pantai Town: KotaMontain: GunungStreet: Jalan

Car: MobilPedicab: BecakPlane: PesawatTrain: Kereta apiCold: DinginHot: PanasRest room: Kamar kecilHospital: Rumah sakitKey : KunciPhone credit: PulsaRoom: KamarTowel: HandukMoney: UangRight: KananLeft: KiriForward: TerusBackward: Kembali

Police: 110Ambulance: 118Fire brigad: 113Emergency: 112Immigration office: 0274 - 487 165International Hospital: 0274 - 446 3535Kota Yogyakarta Hospital: 0274 - 371 195Red cross: 0274 - 379 212Tourism information: 0274 - 513 543Tugu train station: 0274 - 589 685Airport: 0274 - 484 261Jas taxi: 0274 - 373 737Asa taxi: 0274 - 545 545Sadewa taxi: 0274 - 376 107Indrakelana taxi: 0274 - 564 572Money changer: 0274 - 561 155Yogyakarta city government: 0274 - 562 811

1 until 5 October[s]mallseries #1 visual art exhibition Independent Artspace & Management / I AMJl. Nagan Lor 25 Alun-alun Selatan, Kraton, Yogyakarta[S]mallseries is trying to re-collect small things that have been created during the creating process by artists in their daily routines.

1 until 10 OctoberThe Virtual Second WorldTirana ArtspaceJl Suryodiningratan 55 YogyakartaIsa Panic Monsta’s Solo Drawing Exhibition.

October: 7Hut Kota YogyakartaBalai KotaJl.Kenari 56 Timoho, YogyakartaAnniversary of the city of Yogyakarta.

October: 26Grebeg besarSultan PalaceTraditional ceremony held to celebrate Eid al-Adha.

OctoberJogja Java CarnivalTaman Parkir Abu Bakar Ali Jalan Malioboro Titik Nol - Alun-alun UtaraWith the theme of Celebration of Cultural Unity, the committee of Jogja Java Carnival is gearing up to provide the best night carnival in Jogjakarta.

If you have an event you’d like to promote in Jogja Mag for October, send us details at :

info@yogyabisnis.com