Jewellery Historian #13

Jewellery Historian

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INTRODUCING MASSIMO IZZO 33High-end jewelry inspired by the Mediterranean culture

COVER STORY ETHO MARIA 51Exquisite pieces of art, unique as the people who wear them

INTERVIEW INÉDIT 73An introduction to the creative world of INÉDIT

A NEW MUST ALEX SOLDIER 91Timeless appeal, intricate detail, daring mastery

145SPOTLIGHT POMELLATOA story of creativity, consistency and visionary research

REGULARS

EDITOR’S LETTEROur editor-in-chief introduces you the new issue

ISSUE GLOBEAll the jewellery designers of this issue at a glance

NEWS News from around the world

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The editor’s jewellery choice of the month

Jewellery for an important moment of lifeOUR FAVES

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS BLUE SAPPHIREEva introduces us a new gemstone in every issue

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SPECIAL FAVES AURORA BOREALISWe illuminate the new season with Northern lights 155TIMEPIECES ULYSSE NARDIN 161Artemis Racing Partnership with commemorative marine diver

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Lucas Samaltanos-FerrierFounder & Editor-in-Chief


Life can be a hard pill to swallow. On a daily basis, we are consumed with regrets, failures and insecurities that plague our minds and control our actions. Many times we are over-whelmed by situations and things we wish we could change. We experience heartbreak, loss and fear, along with betrayal, jealousy and bad memories.

Things we’ve lost in the past, whether it be a lover or a piece of jewelry, can be hard to let go. However, the ghosts of things and people have no room in our present and will only haunt us as long as we let them. We choose not to let the memory of things departed to become part of our life any longer.

Change can come in many forms in our lives. It might come forcefully like a tidal wave, or creep along incrementally like a glacier. It might come in the form of devastating tragedy, difficult choices, broken relationships, or even new opportunities.

Many times, the only way to improve our lives is to force ourselves to undergo difficult change. That might mean breaking up and leaving a stale – but comfortable – relationship, leaving a mediocre – but stable – job, moving away from a nice – but uninspiring – loca-tion, moving away from a person or anything else that’s holding us back from accomplish-ing our dreams.

Of course, dealing with uninvited change in our lives is often difficult and painful. In many cases, instigating major, but necessary, change in our life can be just as painful. Even though change is often difficult, many times it’s also for the best. Accomplishing anything great in life requires significant change that pushes us beyond our comfort zones.

Whatever change you’re dealing with, know that how you cope with that change will have an impact on your future. Try to keep all positive things life gave you and continue your path of life. It is essential to accept change and move forward. It is important to keep the best of the past and as C.P Cavafy wrote : “And if you can’t shape your life the way you want, at least try as much as you can, not to degrade it”.

This September issue, is dedicated to change, to any change we have to deal at some moment in our life. This issue is dedicated to everything new, new collections, new de-signs, new season.

I hope you will enjoy reading this issue, as much as we enjoyed creating it.

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In every issue, we introduce you to the most tal-ented jewellery designers and people.

At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we look for jewel-lery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality. We value creativity and innovation and we're not afraid to challenge ourselves and others.

Discover the designers, brands & people that we are honored to showcase in this issue.

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ALEX SOLDIER

Known for his elaborate metalwork, distinctive style and unparal-leled craftsmanship, Alex Soldier counts the most stylish tastemak-ers, celebrities and organizations as clients and the jewelry trade has long praised him as a leader in the field. His incredible talent and innovative spirit has captured the hearts of leading editors, style experts and buyers that often proclaim him as the most innovative designer of our time.

Every piece that he creates bears his signature artistry and preci-sion and represents a constantly evolving combination of shape, color and texture—making each piece as individual as its wearer.

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MASSIMO IZZO

The marvelous Sicilian heritage with its charm and history give roots to Massimo’s creations. His collections evoke a magic world of astonishing colors and enthralling shapes, crafted by the finest Italian jewelry school.

Diamonds, raw aquamarines, morganites, lavander jade, moore and orange corals mixed with white, rose and yellow gold, sand-treated, hammered or polished by expert hands.

For over 27 years Massimo’s creations have been chosen by cele-brated customers around the world, royalty, film directors and art galleries.

FRANK MARGUERON

For the interview of this issue, we meet Inédit Joaillier and its founder Frank Margueron in Rouen, in France.

French jewellery-making is famous throughout the world, first and foremost because of the crea-tivity of the country's jewellers, constantly in search of perfection. They use their time-honoured expertise to transform a designer's dream into a perfect piece of jewellery.

At Inédit, pieces are unique, since they are crafted by exceptional artists.The jewellers, setter and polisher have inherited their knowledge and skills from the French jewelry tradition.

Inédit perpetuates a unique know-how and keeps standards of French jewellery at the highest possible levels by creating unique amazing pieces of jewellery.

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PANAYIOTIS SIMOPOULOS

Panayiotis joined our team during summer as creative director-at-large. In his new role, he will contribute to special projects and will serve as roving ambassador with links to all creative areas of the magazine, in close collaboration with our founder & editor-in-chief.

Successful and talented, he is the rarest kind of creative artist, one who creates extraordinary images. With a unique creative vision, whilst maintaining a clear vi-sion of delivering a message that speaks directly to the reader, he ultimately cre-ates an exciting and balanced visual experience.

Together with many of the most talented young photographers, he’ll definitely de-liver, the most memorable, exciting and unique images and fashion editorials that the magazine has ever published.

ETHO MARIA

Etho Maria is the signature brand collection of a well estab-lished international fine jewellery manufacturing company. Marrying impeccable craftsmanship with superior design, the Etho Maria fine jewellery line translates into exquisite, wearable pieces of art that make a bold and lasting state-ment.

The flexibility of the pieces, the application of rose and an-tique cut in sapphires and the motion of the forms have be-come the brands’ trademarks. ‘’Etho Maria’’ is famous for cre-ating prestigious modern pieces that are handcrafted in the company’s ateliers around the globe. That international expo-sure is evident in the brands’ aesthetic, the design being in-fluenced by a diverse range of cultures.

POMELLATO

In today’s ever changing world, few pieces of jewellery are recognized as icons. Nudo by Pomellato is one of the few. This ring, created in 2001, has remained an unmistakable classic over the years, as if it has existed forever.Yet the apparent simplicity of the Nudo collection is the result of a true revolution in taste and design. A trademark of the Milanese brand.

Synonym of creativity and personality on the international jewellery scene, Pomel-lato was founded in 1967 thanks to the intuition of its founder, Pino Rabolini. Heir to a family of goldsmiths, Rabolini was the first to introduce the philosophy of prêt-à-porter into the world of jewellery, attributing a strong distinctive identity to the brand, thanks to which Pomellato soon became renowned on the Italian mar-ket and in the rest of the world, becoming the fifth jewellery company in Europe and one of the biggest players in the entire sector at international level.

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Design director Francesca Amfitheatrof anticipates a brilliant fall with new inter-pretations of Tiffany Victoria, Tiffany Bow and Tiffany Infinity. In reimagining these signature collections, she brings out the strengths of each, sculpting them in metals of harmonious colors highlighted with diamonds, creating jewelry that is as beautiful worn deli-cately alone or in dazzling multiples.

“This is jewelry that can be worn day and night,” Amfitheatrof says. “The de-signs are fluid and elegant, working together or on their own to create a spectacular diamond look”

Introduced in 1998, Tiffany VictoriaTM, a graphic floral pattern of marquise dia-monds, is inspired by a diamond cor-sage ornament that was a centerpiece of Tiffany’s exhibit at the 1889 Paris World’s Fair. The new collection evolves with round and pear-shaped diamonds. Matched for color and clar-ity, the diamonds are set in platinum pendants, bracelets and earrings that radiate with the light and energy of the brightest stars in the sky.

Tiffany Bow recalls the slender thread one might tie around a finger to remem-

ber something—or someone—with whom one shares a close bond. Eight-een karat rose and white gold form asymmetrical loops and off-center knots on slender chokers, curvaceous cuffs traced with diamonds and deli-cate, sparkling rings.

Tiffany Infinity symbolizes the continu-ous connection, energy and vitality of an ancient symbol. Amfitheatrof goes minimal with this balanced form, refin-ing its contours in cuffs and rings of sterling silver, as well as 18 karat gold and diamonds with fluid modern style.

These Tiffany collections are available at Tiffany & Co. stores worldwide.

Tiffany is the internationally renowned jeweler founded in New York in 1837. Through its subsidiaries, Tiffany & Co. manufactures products and operates TIFFANY & CO. retail stores worldwide, and also engages in direct selling through Internet, catalog and business gift operations.

For additional information, please visit www.tiffany.com

TIFFANY & CO .

Design Director Francesca Amfitheatrof Imbues Jewelry with New and Unmistakable Style


http://www.tiffany.com


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For the first time, Ulysse Nardin introduces a Classico Collection timepiece with an in-house movement con-ceived and developed exclusively by the manufacture.

Set within a classically designed timekeeper convey-ing purity in form and effortless elegance, the UN-320 caliber boasts a silicium hairspring and anchor es-capement for supreme accuracy. On the watch’s dial, the hour, minutes, small seconds and date are at 6 o’clock – a stronghold of the Classico Collection’s ba-sic design executions.

With the implementation of the movement in the new Classico Manufacture timepiece, wearers can now eas-ily set the date backwards and forwards, a function offered largely by Ulysse Nardin; use the stop sec-onds feature with a mere pulling of the crown; and rely with confidence on the 48-hour power reserve.

Available in a striking sunray blue finish and a timeless eggshell version, both held in a 40 mm gold case, this latest addition to the Classico Collection shows that tailored style always makes a statement.

Born in Le Locle, Switzerland, in 1823, Ulysse Nardin followed in the watchmaking footsteps of his father, Léonard- Frédéric, apprenticing for him, and later, working with precision timepiece expert William DuBois. In 1846 in Le Locle, at the age of 23, Ulysse Nardin founded the company that still bears his name. He paved the company’s future with his pocket and marine chronometers, setting the benchmark in both civil and military realms. When he died in 1876, his son, Paul-David, took control.

Ulysse Nardin grew steadily in success and renown and was crowned by more than 4,300 watchmaking awards, including 18 gold medals. Despite its vast achievements, the firm fell victim to the quartz crisis in 1983 and was put up for sale. Yet, this setback transi-tioned into something remarkable: a creator of high horology that would propel its own renaissance and become revered, once again, for its revolutionary de-velopments.

Convinced the imaginative firm could become a mar-ket leader, Rolf W. Schnyder purchased the company. It was Schnyder meeting with watchmaking genius Dr. Ludwig Oechslin that sparked the turning point for Ulysse Nardin, resulting in the development of many milestones in the watch industry. Innovation remains embedded in the Ulysse Nardin culture, often ex-pressed through breakthrough achievements and the proactive use of new materials, like Silicium.

Its many models, including its most iconic works, are housed within a four-pillar system for simple naviga-tion: Marine, Functional, Exceptional and Classico. The Marine pillar pays tribute to Ulysse Nardin’s rich history with the sea and includes exquisite timepieces such as the Marine Chronometer Manufacture, Marine Diver and Lady Diver. “Functional” presents the game-changing Perpetual Calendar, Dual Time and Sonata. “Exceptional” showcases the Trilogy of Time series, which catapulted the brand’s comeback, and of course, one cannot forget the Freak, which stunned the Swiss watchmaking industry for its groundbreaking use of Silicium. The category also encompasses the minute repeaters, where time is not only seen, but also heard. The Classico pillar comprises timepieces that integrate in-house dials with the rare, centuries-old art of enameling.

For nearly 170 years, Ulysse Nardin has forged ahead, anchored in seafaring roots with sights set on the hori-zon. Forever inventive, the manufacturer remains steadfast in its pioneering precision of fusing bold inno-vation with undeniable style. November 2014 heralds a new era for Ulysse Nardin who joined Kering’s “Lux-ury – Watches and Jewellery “ division. Through this acquisition, Kering will support the continuation of Ulysse Nardin’s path of innovation and ensure the fu-ture growth of independence in the manufacture of in-house movements.

F o r m o r e i n f o r m a t i o n , p l e a s e v i s i t www.ulysse-nardin.com

ULYSSE NARDIN

Ulysse Nardin Introduces First In-house Movement for Classico Collection


http://www.ulysse-nardin.com


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Available in a striking sunray blue finish (this page) and a timeless eggshell version (right page), both held in a 40 mm gold case, this latest addition to the Classico Collec-tion shows that tailored style always makes a statement.


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For the 2015 summer season, Maison Mathon is launching its “Glycine” or wisteria collection as a tribute to the plant and its pastels col-ours, synonymous with freshness and renewal.

This climbing plant delicately winds around pergolas, decorating them with its tumbling little flowers. Wisteria colours stretch from white to violet and include powdery pink shades too.

In Japan, wisteria is considered a sacred tree in the Iwata sanctuary, where it has been names a “natural monument”. One tree is be-lieved to be over 800 years old.

Locally, this wisteria is called “Kujaku-Fuji” which literally means “the peacock wisteria”. Its branches are so thick and imposing that tea ceremonies are served during the day be-neath the freshness of its flowers.

The “Glycine” line revolves around a long necklace dressed with pink and white pearls, balls of smoked quartz, white topazes and rho-dolites. The fine branches in pink gold bloom as buds and flowers in teardrop-shaped pink sapphires.

The ring is like a fan of sapphires. Worn very close to the hand, it wraps around the finger like a delicate embrace. The bracelet, sits comfortably on the wrist, secured by a simple rotation of the branches.

The earrings, climb up the lobes to decorate them with spring coloured sapphires, like wis-teria climbing over houses and homes in the spring and summer. The delicate “Glycine” is emblematic of the naturalist style of Maison Mathon.

MAISON MATHON

The “Glycine” collection.


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Sotheby’s Hong Kong is honoured to present The Cowdray Pearls, one of the finest and rarest grey pearl necklaces known (Est. HK$35 – 55 million / US$4.5 – 7 million*), at its Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Autumn Sale to take place on 7 October at the Hong Kong Conven-tion and Exhibition Centre. Formerly in the collection of Viscountess Cowdray, Lady Pearson (1860 – 1932), a distin-guished connoisseur and collector, this magnificent necklace strung and mounted by Cartier comprises 42 ex-tremely rare and superb natural grey saltwater pearls well-matched in lustre, shape and size, and is accompanied by a pair of natural grey pearl earrings, mounts by Cartier London. The Cow-dray Pearls will be exhibited in Singa-pore (12 – 13 September), Taipei (19 – 20 September), New York (24 Septem-ber), London (28 September), Geneva (29 September) and the Middle East (date to be confirmed) prior to the auc-tion in Hong Kong.

QUEK Chin Yeow, Deputy Chairman of Sotheby’s Asia and Chairman of Interna-tional Jewellery, Asia said, “We are ex-tremely honoured to offer the Cowdray Pearls in Sotheby’s upcoming Autumn sale. Natural saltwater grey pearls are rarely seen at auction and the present necklace, strung with 42 superb grey pearls and of aristocratic provenance, is arguably the greatest of its kind in exis-tence. This is an extraordinary collecting opportunity for pearl and jewellery con-noisseurs around the world.”

The Finest Grey Pearls in Existence

As noted by Swiss Gemmological Insti-tute (SSEF), the Cowdray Pearls is an “exceptional pearl necklace” that has been described to possess “extraordi-nary characteristics and merit special mention and appreciation”. Their colour subtly varies in different shades of grey and brown, partly combined with highly attractive rosé , purple and green over-tones. SSEF also notes that “apart from its aesthetic beauty and rarity, this pearl necklace is also exceptional due to its documented historic provenance”.

An Illustrious Provenance

Formerly in the collection of Viscountess Cowdray, Lady Pearson (1860-1932), the Cowdray Pearls originally compris-ing 42 pearls had been re-strung to 38 pearls. Two pearls from this strand after 1937 were mounted into a pair of ear-rings by Cartier, which remained with the Cowdray family. These and two other pearls originating from another an-tique jewel were recently re-strung back to its original number of 42 pearls – “to make it a superb layout of historic pearls” (SSEF, 2013). The Cowdray Pearls first appeared at auction at So-theby’s London in 1937, with a cata-logue note stating that “there is proba-bly no finer collection of such pearls in existence”.

www.sothebys.com

SOTHEBY’S

Sotheby’s Hong Kong to present The Cowdray Pearls


http://www.sothebys.com


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Couture Jeweller to the stars, Martin Katz, has unveiled two new packages – ‘The Ultimate Proposal’ and ‘Luxury Wedding’ package within the exquisite Jewel Suite of The New York Palace ho-tel.

As part of Katz’ newly unveiled Bridal ring collection, the renowned Jeweller will also debut The Palace Engagement Ring. The ring features a striking three-carat cushion ring replete with an architecturally-inspired setting that mim-ics the Manhattan skyline, as seen from the windows of the hotel’s Jewel Suite by Martin Katz. Two trapezoid side dia-monds and a micro pave halo surround the center stone and are incorporated throughout the band.

To celebrate the launch, The New York Palace is launching two lavish new travel packages that provide magnifi-cent accommodations and supreme ex-periences.

For those looking to dazzle their signifi-cant other with a truly unparalleled pro-posal, they can choose the hotel’s Ulti-mate Proposal Package, including a two night stay in one of the majestic Corner Suites when they purchase a Martin Katz engagement ring valued between $50,000 and $100,000. For a truly unfor-gettable experience, those who pur-chase a ring priced at over $100,000 will receive a two night stay in the sump-tuous Jewel Suite by Martin Katz. The ring of choice will be proudly displayed in one of the beautiful floating show-

cases in the suite until the time of the proposal. In addition to accommodation the couples will also receive:

• Roundtrip airport transfer via a luxury sedan from any of the four New York metro airports.

• VIP welcome amenities and a floral arrangement by famed florist, Kostas at Floralies.

• Romantic Couples Massage at the Spa at The New York Palace.

• Seven-course dinner for two catered by the hotel’s Executive Chef.

Dedicated Palace “Proposal Consultant” who will work with the guest to flawlessly execute each detail of the proposal Couples who pop the question with the Ultimate Proposal Package can also choose to purchase The New York Pal-ace Ultimate Wedding Package at The Mansion on Madison. For an additional $35,000, couples can host their wed-ding at the Mansion on Madison, encap-sulating a true fairytale wedding that spares no detail, including a cocktail reception for up to 85 guests, a wed-ding cake by Ron Ben Israel, a 3 course dinner, champagne, canapés and a pre-mium bar service.

For further information visit :

w w w . m a r t i n k a t z . c o m

MARTIN KATZ

Unique wedding proposal packages


http://www.martinkatz.com


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1 Interior view of the Jewel Suite 2 Ashoka Diamond Drops 3 Interior view of the Jewel Suite

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1 View of the Jewel Suite 2 Martin Katz 3 Exterior & terrace of the Jewel Suite

All photos, courtesy of Martin Katz © Martin Katz

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FABERGÉ

Summer in Provence

Summer in Provence- A delicious sea-son of coloured petals dancing in the warm breeze to the sound of the cica-das. It is also the season of the new-est Fabergé High Jewellery time-piece. Its floral strap tells the time at the heart of a colourful stream as you sit back and watch time flow by.

With summer in Provence, Fabergé has captured the blend of colours and happiness that characterise the south of France. This latest creation from the Fabergé workshops is a High Jewellery watch that dazzles with its poetic colors and shapes. De-signed to resemble a garland of flow-ers woven on a hot afternoon, sum-mer in Provence offers a new vision of jewellery timepieces.

The sophisticated skills of Fabergé workmasters are evident in the deli-cacy with which the precious gems are interlaced with coloured fine stones and hard-stone micro-

sculptures. A series of interlocking precious ribbons move across a rounded pebble, in which the move-ment of the watch is housed. The lines intermingle and envelop the per-fectly round and harmonious con-tours of the case. Two flexible little bands in the lower section are filled with enamel to highlight the Fabergé name with which the piece is embla-zoned. Other, snow-set with precious gemstones, unfurl across the dial to envelop the case. The softly shaped bracelet, made of diamonds strung together like beads on a necklace, caresses the wrist. In the centre, a tiny floral chain meanders over its entire length. Like a garland of lights, it mimics the gentle swaying of wild flower in the breeze.

For more information please visit www.faberge.com


http://www.faberge.com


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ADLER Joai l l i ers

The Four Seasons

The Four Seasons, the timeless musical masterpiece by Antonio Vivaldi, is the name given to the four violin concertos that left a profound mark on the history of classical music. Inspired by the beauty of these en-chanting melodies, and the fruit of a cen-tury of expertise, Adler have created four Fine Jewellery sets in 18kt white gold set with sparkling gemstones, representing Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. Four sets for four violin concertos, which open up “the confrontation between harmony and invention”.

Autumn

The joyous season of song, harvest and Bacchus announces the arrival of peaceful days. The air becomes lighter and the leaves start to fall, dancing a flamboyant waltz from the sky to the ground. To pay homage to this majestic ballad, 60 oval-cut rubies and a myriad of diamonds form a necklace like no other. Meanwhile six deter-mined, dancing rubies cause a stir with more diamonds, comprising a sparkling pair of earrings.

Winter

Snowflakes create a bewitching whirlwind before reaching the ground, while crackling fires gladden those who relax by the hearth. In spite of the slow waltz of the short, cold winter days, the season also brings delight. Diamonds, like glistening crystals of ice, are the only jewels adorning this set. 58

pear-cut diamonds totalling 57 carats spar-kle amongst a further 4,057 diamonds in an intrinsically pure necklace, which is comple-mented by earrings set with 4 pear- cut dia-monds for a total of 2.86 carats.

Spring

A season welcomed joyously by both man and beast, where verdant natural scenery and the fluttering wings of birds punctuate the gentle whisper of renewal. To celebrate this melody, a necklace set with 11 pear-cut emeralds and 395 diamonds encircles the neck of its delighted wearer, while earrings set with diamonds and 2 pear-cut emeralds complete this charming dawn serenade.

Summer

Passionate and mysterious, through thun-derstorms and momentary lulls, summer finally emerges into tranquil sunshine. Then the night takes over, with its infinite sky and benevolent stars. The scent of pine trees, the solemn movement of the sea, and a cho-rus of crickets ceaselessly accompany this summertime refrain. Ten intense sapphires and hundreds of diamonds form a cascade of carats on the necklace and earrings that compose the cadence of this star-spangled set.

For further information visit :

www.adler.ch


http://www.adler.ch

http://www.adler.ch

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Necklace "L'Automne" in 18kt white gold set with 60 oval cut rubies 107.22 cts and 280 diamonds 58.23 cts


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Necklace "L'Hiver" in 18kt white gold set with 58 pear-shaped diamonds 57.57 cts and 4057 diamonds 17.37 cts

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Necklace "Le Printemps" in 18kt white gold set with 11 pear-shaped emeralds 62.79 cts and 395 diamonds 61.93 cts

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ENTICE

Entice your loved ones with Diamonds this festive season

Entice, the fine jewellery brand by the renowned KGK group has come up with a gorgeous and splendid range of jewellery which are perfect for gifting to your loved ones, in this season of weddings and festive ga-lore. With Rakhabandhan and Teej round the corner, this is the best time to gift your special someone nothing less than glittering diamonds which they will dote on for years to come. Festivities and occasions like family weddings are the best time to ex-press your feelings, with treasured gifts to keep the bond of love strong. Weddings are especially a lifetime occasion for anyone and what can be a better way of bestowing your good wishes than giving them a beautiful diamond creation, which will be preserved for ages. These gift-ing options from Entice celebrate the Indian spirit of occasion gifting.

The bejeweled diamond collection comprises of sparkling bracelets, classic bangles, floral rings and also some beautiful detachable jewellery pieces like earrings, ear studs and necklace. These gorgeous jewels in inimitable cuts and designs reflect the style and sophistication of the new age women. Dazzling diamonds in varied shapes/cuts such as emer-ald cut, marquise, pear, round etc. set with impeccable finish in white, rose and yellow gold, offers choices in wearbility – from everyday wear to special occasions.

Each of the baubles of this range compliments the pure and selfless

love filled sentiment of gifting some-thing valuable to your loved ones. As it is, there is no bigger joy than the joy of giving; Go ahead and add some shimmering joys in your life with this beautiful gifting range from Entice.

About Entice

Taking the rich Indian jewellery heri-tage and enhancing it with a contem-porary twist, Entice Jewellery offers a classical yet contemporary style; boasting an elegant rich look. 'Entice' was launched by KGK group at the turn of millennium in 2004 in Hong Kong. Following a huge success with boutiques in Hong Kong and with an impression that India is now modern by design, KGK launched its first bou-tique of ‘Entice’ in Jaipur in 2009. En-tice today has 6 standalone bou-tiques in Hong Kong and India (Jaipur, Mumbai, New Delhi & Ben-galuru).

Entice designs meet the mounting demand for an internationally aes-thetic look, lending a unique artistic blend to their pieces. Associated by the strength of KGK, Entice aims to create an unparalleled position of credible leadership by providing un-matched customer delight and ex-ceeding customer expectations at every opportunity with its precious gems and jewellery.

For more information www.entice.in


http://www.entice.in


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For over 27 years Massimo’s creations have been chosen by celebrated customers around the world. MASSIMO IZZO, designer and creator of high-end jewelry inspired by Mediterranean culture is defi-nitely an amazing artist and jewellery designer that all jewellery lovers should know and the designer all collectors should own a piece of jewellery from his amazing collections.

MASSIMOIZZO

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His collections evoke a magic world of astonishing colors and enthralling shapes, crafted by the finest Italian jewelry school.

Welcome to the world of MASSIMO IZZO, designer and creator of high-end jewelry in-spired by Mediterranean culture.The marvelous Sicilian heritage with its charm and history give roots to Massimo’s crea-tions. His collections evoke a magic world of astonishing colors and enthralling shapes, crafted by the finest Italian jewelry school.

Diamonds, raw aquamarines, morganites, lavander jade, moore and orange corals mixed with white, rose and yellow gold, sand-treated, hammered or polished by expert hands. In the Sicilian Lacets collection, grandmothers’ crocheting tradition at the beginning of the 19th century inspire refined rings with white and yellow gold filigrane, diamonds, Sar-dinian and Japanese coral.

In the Sicilian Lacets collection, grandmothers’ crocheting tradition at the beginning of the 19th century inspire refined rings with white and yellow gold filigrane, diamonds, Sar-dinian and Japanese coral.

Byzantine crosses, ancestral Greek coins and masks become necklaces and earrings of finest metals, peridots and emeralds. Coral pendants, rose tourmaline and lapis-lazuli ear-rings, Peruvian opal or fire opal rings enrich his Classic collection, crafted with precious and semi-precious gemstones.

Exuberant and fantastic designs characterize the Jewels of the Sea collection. En-chanted underwater atmospheres populated by sea horses, octopuses, starfish, crabs and corals revive thanks to virtuoso craftsmanship.


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Exuberant and fantastic designs characterize the Jewels of the Sea collection. Enchanted underwater atmospheres populated by sea horses, octopuses, starfish, crabs and corals revive thanks to virtuoso craftsmanship.

The ‘Massimo Izzo for you’ service is Massimo’s special tool for creating jewels or collec-tions made-to-order. He designs and creates unique pieces or collections exclusively for Retailers or Customers, according to their needs and desires.

A longtime customer from NY asked Massimo to create the wedding rings for him and his fiancée. He created two beautiful and special rings with a little twist inspired by their fam-ily history. Massimo delivered the creations himself, while on a business trip to NY, and included in the package the video with the handcrafting process in his laboratory in Syra-cuse. It was an absolute success, the couple loved it and included it in the touching mo-ments of their ceremony.

For over 27 years Massimo’s creations have been chosen by celebrated customers around the world, royalty, film directors and art galleries. He has been acknowledged among the 108 contemporary designers by Olivier Dupon in “The new Jewelers” publica-tion (Thames and Hudson), the red carpet for the new jewelers’ generation.

His boutiques are located in the Fashion District in Milan and in the suggestive Archi-mede Square in Syracuse, Sicily.

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ETHO MARIA


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ETHO MARIAEtho Maria is the signature brand collection of a well established inter-national fine jewellery manufactur-ing company.

Marrying impeccable craftsman-ship with superior design, the Etho Maria fine jewellery line translates into exquisite, wearable pieces of art that make a bold and lasting statement.


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‘’Etho Maria’’ was established in 2008 as the signature brand collection of the well known in the trade, manufacturing company ‘’Lithos’’.

More than twenty years of passion and expertise in gemstones and high-end jewelry are at the heart of the ’Etho Maria’’ label. The flexibility of the pieces, the application of rose and antique cut in sapphires and the motion of the forms have become the brands’ trade-marks. ‘’Etho Maria’’ is famous for creating prestigious modern pieces that are hand-crafted in the company’s ateliers around the globe. That international exposure is evident in the brands’ aesthetic, the design being influenced by a diverse range of cultures.

Ancient Greek pottery, Byzantine Icons, Islamic Tapestry and Chinese Handicrafts are some of the sources of inspiration and are transformed in fine pieces of jewelry in the most unexpected way. Despite the variety of the inspiration sources jewels of ’Etho Maria’’ are instantly identifiable and comfortably wearable.

’Etho Maria’’ jewels are sought after throughout the globe both by stylish women and col-lectors alike. The company’s creations are always a source of inspiration for the industry.

Everything they do at Etho Maria rests upon one core value: their desire to offer genuine value to their customer. Every piece of fine jewellery is made with stones that have been carefully hand-picked for their exquisite beauty and value. Being masters at the art of fine crafted jewellery, each piece is lovingly created with great care at every stage in the proc-ess. This ensures the finished product will not only possess a unique beauty, but will stand the test of time. Such a philosophy encapsulates their fundamental belief that the craft of fine jewellery creation is indeed an art form.

If someone had to describe the Etho Maria style in just a few words, they would probably choose the unrivaled ability to astonish and impress on observing the fine craftsmanship of each piece. Each unique design, reveals an unexpected harmony between elements and stones which appear to be made for one another.

They design jewellery for those who expect the unexpected. Suffice to say, in embracing variety and a passion for innovation, their designs are truly one of a kind. Etho Maria de-signs are dynamic, expressing the aesthetic values the world of fine jewellery considers timeless.

Each piece has a charm all of its own, a timeless value which makes them the ideal choice of the eclectic customer.

At the Jewellery Historian, we are honored to host as our cover story, the amazing crea-tions of Etho Maria. Every piece they create is definitely a masterpiece created by hu-man hand. Marrying incredible craftsmanship with superior design, the Etho Maria fine jewelry translates into exquisite, wearable pieces of art. Every piece of jewellery created by Etho Maria is meant to convey feelings and emotions and definitely to inspire future generations of artists.

For further information visit the official website www.ethomaria.com

If someone had to describe the Etho Maria style in just a few words, they would probably choose the unrivaled ability to astonish and impress on observing the fine craftsmanship of each piece.


http://www.ethomaria.com



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INÉDIT JOAILLIER


Designing and crafting are definitely means to express the artist’s spirit, ways to display the sensibility of the artist. It is a natural need to communicate.

For this issue, we meet Inédit Joaillier in Rouen, in France.

French jewellery-making is famous throughout the world, first and foremost because of the creativity of the country's jewel-lers, constantly in search of perfection. They use their time-honoured expertise to transform a designer's dream into a perfect piece of jewellery.

That expertise can now be readily identified and certified thanks to the "Joaillerie de France" collective brand. Created by jewellery craftsmen and manufacturers, it guarantees that a piece of jewellery has been manufactured, assembled, set and polished in France, according to the criteria of quality and excellence that are synonymous with French jewellery.

The "Joaillerie de France" seal embodies the commitment and dedication of people who have devoted their skills and talents to creating beautiful jewellery.

It is a world famous guarantee that each jewellery piece was made entirely in France but also a symbol of quality, and the assurance that the piece was made to the highest profes-sional standards

A person who acquires a piece of Joaillerie de France jewel-lery can be sure that it has been designed and made accord-ing to the standards of perfection and distinction of French jewellery.

At Inédit, pieces are unique, since they are crafted by excep-tional artists.The jewellers, setter and polisher have inherited their knowledge and skills from the French jewelry tradition.

To set a gem on a jewel, however small it may be, it must be conform to the strictest norms of quality : cut, color and pu-rity.

Their diamonds come straight from Anvers and Tel-Aviv, their-Sapphires are certified natural and mainly come from Sri Lanka, while their rubies come from Burma and their emer-alds from Colombia and Zambia.

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However, even if our inspiration is multiple, first and foremost it comes from our common interest in observing the fine details whether it be the shapes or colours. Resulting in perfect design association.

Frank, tell us a little bit about yourself and your work.

My name is Frank Margueron and I was born the 24 April 1958. My parents were Jewel-ers in Guingamp in a little town in Brittany, in France.

Despite having grown up in the world of jewellery, I saw myself having a sports career divided between the sea and the mountains. However, a skiing accident put an end to my career plan.

Having always been passionate about the Arts, its the world of photography at the age of 20 that leads me to Paris for the first time and then, after making several acquaintances, I decide to move to Rouen, Normandy. It is here that I met Carole, my wife, who shares the same passion for the Arts and Literature, and together in 1984 we create the future IN-EDIT. We also have a son, who not only works as a Photographer but also contributes to the development of our Collections.

Being both very close to nature, we live in the countryside and have a common passion for the sea that remains a great source of our inspiration.

However, even if our inspiration is multiple, first and foremost it comes from our common interest in observing the fine details whether it be the shapes or colours. Resulting in per-fect design association.

Nature as well as architecture and certain artworks are also sources of inspiration.

It was during a visit to New York that we design our first collection, the Charleston line, inspired by the « Chrysler Tower ». This symbol of Art Deco can also be found in later col-lections.


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INEDIT is a real story of a passion, and in particular a natural means to communicate and a way of expressing a sensitivity.

In 2003, the « Arabesques » collection is born. Inspired by Italian earthenware, this proves to be our signature collection, establishing the brand INEDIT. A mix of Italian ren-aissance and Art Nouveau that can often be found in metal work.

Followed by the « Art Nouveau » Collection, inspired by a Hector Guimard drawing found in an artwork collection in a Brittany hotel.

INEDIT is a real story of a passion, and in particular a natural means to communicate and a way of expressing a sensitivity.

Without this sensitivity, whether for Carole or me, no creation is possible.

What were your aspirations when you were young?

The willingness to preserve our know-how and participate to the development to voca-tions.

Tell us about your design style. What makes your collections unique in the indus-try?

To say that our collections are unique, would be extremely pretentious.

They are only a reflection of our state of mind.


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Being both very close to nature, we live in the countryside and have a common passion for the sea that remains a great source of our inspiration.

Which are your favorite materials? Which materials and techniques your favor?

Gold and forged metal. Precious stones are also extremely important in our collections.

We only work with natural stones that are untreated and meet the most stringent quality standards.

What according to you contributed to your success?

Everyday is a new challenge and I refuse to create by proxy.

How does work take place in your atelier when you design a new collection?

We are 5 in the atelier working around a single set, encouraging a exchange of ideas. Each trade is represented; Designer, Jeweler and Setter.

What do you like most about being a jewelry designer?

Living my dream.

The most valuable lesson you have learned until today?

To be and remain yourself.

How do you define luxury ?

I would answer you the same way as I did in another question, by living the dream, to be and remain yourself.

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INÉDIT is a real story of a passion, and in particular a natural means to communicate and a way of expressing a sensitivity.

What is your idea of elegance ?

Simplicity

What is your favorite piece you’ve ever created – and what made it so special?

Every piece that I design is my favourite, from the moment that it makes someone happy.

What kind of person wears your jewelry?

There is no archetype.

Which is your “customer” ?

Women and men who refuse the stereotypes and with whom we share the taste for a unique, rare and high quality object.


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Gold and forged metal. Precious stones are also extremely important in our collections. We only work with natural stones that are untreated and meet the most stringent quality standards.

If you could see any woman wearing your beautiful designs, who would it be?

In my opinion, the goal is that the object I had created for her makes her happy.

Are men more open-minded about wearing jewellery than they used to be?

I don’t know, I work very little for men

Do you believe that a man should wear jewellery ?

I really don’t know. My main category of customers are female and I work very little for men.

What’s it like to see someone on the street wearing one of your creations ?

A certain kind of happiness.

Which is the destination that you find the most inspiring ?

My birthplace, Brittany.

Which is your favorite destination for summer holidays and which is your favorite for winter ?

Every summer with Carole, we sail on our yacht in Brittany and the winter, I return to my first love ; the mountains and skiing.

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Your favorite capital ?

It’s difficult to name just one but I do love Paris, New York and basically all cities full of his-tory.

Your favorite addresses ?

The cafe « Bonaparte » in Saint Germain des Prés, Paris.

Your heroes in real life ?

The simple women and men that know how to give a part of their existence to others.

Do you think that there is a relation between fashion and jewellery design ?

I don’t know. I fear that fashion is just something short-lived.

Which fashion designers inspire you with their work ?

Yves Saint Laurent, who was able to shake up the codes whilst remaining timeless.

If you could choose one fashion designer to collaborate with, who would it be ?

Ralph Laurent, who corresponds to my lifestyle.

Are there any persons in art, fashion, architecture and design that inspire you with their work?

No, the sources of inspiration are multiple and evolve over the years

Which is your favorite author ( and / or book ) ?

Any author that makes me dream

Your favorite motto ?

Waking up every day with the same passion for life and having new projects

Which is your advice to young and aspiring jewellery designers ?

Stay yourself as it will always be the best source of inspiration.

If you could change one thing about your career to date, what would it be ?

Nothing

If, you could live the life of another designer or creative, for a day, who would it be, and why ?

I have never wanted to live someone elses life. I would feel that I was creating a counter-feit.

How would you define success ? Do you think you’ve found it yet ?

I am not motivated by success, only sharing my passions motivates me.

Every summer with Carole, we sail on our yacht in Brittany and the winter, I return to my first love ; the mountains and skiing.


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Our son Frederic is my biggest accomplishment. Today in addition to his career as a photographer, he contributes greatly to the development of our collections. We are very happy and proud because the activity, the skill will probably be transmitted . Frédéric through his shrewdness, his critical sense and talent help us to think differently. He and I are connected. I think when connected as we are it is the height of complicity.

What’s your greatest accomplishment ?

Our son Frederic. Today in addition to his career as a photographer, he contributes greatly to the development of our collections. We are very happy and proud because the activity, the skill will probably be transmitted . Frédéric through his shrewdness, his critical sense and talent help us to think differently. He and I are connected. I think when connected as we are it is the height of complicity.

For me the family that we form all three with my wife is by far the greatest achievement of a lifetime.

What’s your greatest weakness?

Most probably being too sensitive.

Are you a realist or fantasist ?

I am more of a realist, but a little bit of a fantasist.

Your favorite quote ?

I have a quote that I like a lot of Edward Hopper: "If you could say it in words, there would be no reason to paint".

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Could you please tell us about your latest collection ?

Historically, we only work with precious stones but recently, I have started to develop cer-tain pieces with a floral theme set with fine natural untreated stones. These are very rare stones due to their high quality.

What we should expect from you in the future ?

The same as in the past I hope, stay myself.

Could you tell us about your upcoming projects ?

For the second year running, we are going to be participating at the Biennale des Métiers d’Art, the Revelations Exhibition at the Grand Palais.

We will be repeating the presence that we gave in 2013, the installation of our workshop under the dome of the Grand Palais and create, in public, of a unique piece of jewelery that will join our heritage collection.

In 2013, we created a ring incorporating the architectural concept of the Grand Palais.

This year, based on our son Frédéric’s idea, we will create a piece that will be the meet-ing point between geology and jewelry. This being a symbol as France will be the host country this year for the preservation of our planet.

At the Jewellery Historian, we are grateful to Mr. Frank Margueron for meeting us and sharing with all our readers his universe. We are grateful and thankful to the entire team of Frédéric for all pho-tos that illustrate the interview, to Carole for her warm welcome, to Gregory for helping us to real-ize this interview and to the entire Inédit team for allowing us to visit their ateliers and see how their amazing jewellery pieces are born and created, that we will showcase in a future issue.

For the second year running, we are going to participate at the Biennale des Métiers d’Art, at the Revelations Exhibition at the Grand Palais in Paris. Under the dome of the Grand Palais we will create, in public, a unique piece of jewelery that will later join our heritage collection.


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ALEX SOLDIER


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Known for his elaborate metalwork, distinctive style and unparalleled craftsmanship, Alex Soldier counts the most stylish tastemakers, celebri-ties and organizations as clients and the jewelry trade has long praised him as a leader in the field. His incredible talent and innovative spirit has captured the hearts of leading editors, style experts and buyers that often proclaim him as the most innovative designer of our time.

His work is filled with timeless appeal, intricate detail, daring mastery and affordable price points that it becomes impossible to resist his magical touch. Every piece that he creates bears his signature artistry and precision and represents a constantly evolving combination of shape, color and texture—making each piece as individual as its wearer.

ALEX SOLDIER


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Known for his elaborate metalwork, distinctive style and unparalleled craftsmanship, Alex Soldier counts the most stylish tastemakers, celebrities and organizations as clients and the jewelry trade has long praised him as a leader in the field.

His incredible talent and innovative spirit has captured the hearts of leading editors, style experts and buyers that often proclaim him as the most innovative designer of our time.

Artisanal workmanship defines Alex Soldier’s jewelry. His work is filled with timeless ap-peal, intricate detail, daring mastery and affordable price points that it becomes impossi-ble to resist his magical touch.

Every piece that he creates bears his signature artistry and precision and represents a constantly evolving combination of shape, color and texture—making each piece as indi-vidual as its wearer.

Alex Soldier designs with a passion for distinction, using innovative proprietary tech-niques for decorating metal surfaces to achieve an effect of original texture and detail that surpasses the boundaries of traditional craftsmanship.

Handmade in New York City, the beauty of Alex Soldier jewelry lies in the way it blurs the line between fine ornament and miniature sculpture. His work is precious poetry that speaks to the heart.

Alex Soldier was born on a threshold of two continents, Europe and Asia, in the Ural Mountains region, city of Perm. This region is known for its abundant natural resources such as gold and adamants.

Based on a Russian folk legend, in the bosom of these mountains once lived a Russian craftsman named Danila, who spent seven years of his life to carve a flower out of mala-chite which would be ideal in form and beauty.

So much time and effort had Danila invested into his creation that the final outcome turned out to be a masterpiece—the flower looked as if it had its own soul, even though it was made out of stone.

This legend serves as an inspiration for Alex Soldier to this day. When designing jewelry, Soldier strives to create miniature works of art. He gives life to his work—be it a jewelry design or an objet d’art—making it more a piece of art than an accessory.

Even as a child, Alex Soldier displayed a talent for sculpture, woodcraft, and painting miniatures. But before pursuing art as a career, he earned a master’s degree in computer engineering.


ALEX SOLDIER