J.D. Williams Group Textile Performance Standards · PDF file · 2005-04-15J.D....

J.D. Williams Group Textile Performance Standards Ladieswear

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APPROVED LABS We currently SGS and Intertek (ITS) as our approved labs please refer to the websites below for a complete for further information and a list of your nearest lab. www.sgs.com www.itsglobal.com

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1. BLOUSES AND SHIRTS - WOVEN 2. DRESSES AND SKIRTS - WOVEN 3. TROUSERS AND SHORTS - WOVEN 4. SHIRTS AND TOPS - KNITTED 5. JACKETS AND SUITS 6. DRESSES AND SKIRTS - KNITTED 7. TROUSERS, SHORTS AND LEGGINGS - KNITTED 8. KNITWEAR 9. JEANS AND DENIMS 10. DRESSING GOWNS, HOUSECOATS AND BATHROBES 11. NIGHTDRESSES, UNDERWEAR AND PYJAMAS 12. SWIMWEAR AND BEACHWEAR 13. POCKETS AND LININGS 14. CORSETRY 15. LEATHER AND SUEDE Notes ;

1. When using crinkle viscose fabrics dimensional stability may vary - Please contact the relevant technologist.

2. Pilling tests are to be carried out on all blends with synthetic yarns.

3. For the safety standards of studs, eyelets, rivets, press fasteners , zips, buttons and motifs – Please refer to this section at the end of the manual.

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.1 - BLOUSES AND SHIRTS - WOVEN

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENTPHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max. - Care Label Wash Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial + or - 3% max. cycle Appearance after Washing assessment In house method. Satisfactory Appearance after Dry Cleaning In house method Satisfactory Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934 12kg part 2 Tear Strength ASTM D1424 750 g Seam Strength BS3320 10 kg Seam Slippage BS3320 7kg Seam opening 6mm. Resistance to Pilling BS5811 3 - 4 5 hours after cleaning Resistance to Abrasion BS EN ISO12947 15,000 Rubs Part 2 Shade change 4 at 5,000 Rubs

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COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 D01 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry - 4 X12 Wet - 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4 B02 Colour Fastness to Perspiration BS EN ISO 105 4 E04 Print durability In House Method 3 - 4

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.2 - DRESSES AND SKIRTS - WOVEN

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENTPHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max. - Care Label Wash Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial + or - 3% max. cycle Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Appearance after Dry Cleaning In house method Satisfactory Tensile Strength Grab) BS EN ISO 13934 part 2 13kg Tear Strength ASTM D1424 750g Seam Strength BS3320 13 kg Seam Slippage BS3320 9kg Seam opening 6mm. Resistance to Pilling BS5811 4 5 hours after cleaning Resistance to Abrasion BS EN ISO 12947 15,000 Rubs Part 2 Shade change 4 at 5,000 Rubs Wrinkle Recovery AATCC Spec. 128 4 Steam Pressing - Free Steam (WIRA) BS4323 + or - 2% COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 D01

Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry - 4 X12 Wet - 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4 B02

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Colour Fastness to Perspiration BS EN ISO 105 4 E04

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.3 - TROUSERS AND SHORTS - WOVEN

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENT PHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max. - Care Label Wash Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial + or - 3% max. cycle Appearance after Washing assessment In house method. Satisfactory Appearance after Dry Cleaning In house method Satisfactory Tensile Strength (Grab) BS EN ISO 13934 20kg part 2 Tear Strength ASTM D1424 1000g Seam Strength BS3320 15 kg Seam Slippage BS3320 10kg Seam opening 6mm. Resistance to Pilling BS5811 3 - 4 5 hours after cleaning Resistance to Abrasion BS EN ISO 12947 15,000 Rubs Part 2 Shade change 4 at 5,000 Rubs Wrinkle Recovery AATCC Spec. 128 4 Steam Pressing - Free Steam (WIRA) BS4323 + or - 2% COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 D01

Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry - 4 X12 Wet - 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4 B02

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.4 - SHIRTS AND TOPS - KNITTED

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENT PHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 7% max. - Care Label Wash Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial 7% max. cycle Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Appearance after Dry Cleaning In house method Satisfactory Bursting Strength BS4768 250 kPa Resistance to Pilling BS5811 3 - 4 3 hours after cleaning Spirality Care label wash 5% max COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 D01 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4 B02 Colour Fastness to Perspiration BS EN ISO 105 4 E04

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.5 - JACKETS AND SUITS

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENTPHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max. - Care Label Wash Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial + or - 3% max. cycle Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Appearance after Dry Cleaning In house method Satisfactory Tensile Strength (Grab) BS EN ISO 13934 15kg part 2 Tear Strength ASTM D1424 1000g Seam Strength BS3320 15 kg Seam Slippage BS3320 10kg Seam opening 6mm. Resistance to Pilling BS5811 3 - 4 5 hours after cleaning Resistance to Abrasion BS EN ISO 12947 15,000 Rubs

Part 2 Shade change 4 at 5,000 Rubs

Wrinkle Recovery AATCC Spec. 128 4 Steam Pressing - Free Steam (WIRA) BS4323 + or - 2% COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 D01

Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4

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B02

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.6 - DRESSES AND SKIRTS - KNITTED

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENT PHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 7% max. - Care Label Wash Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial 7% max. cycle Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Appearance after Dry Cleaning In house method Satisfactory Bursting Strength BS4768 250 kPa Resistance to Pilling BS5811 3 - 4 3 hours after cleaning Spirality Care label wash 5% max COLOUR FASTNESSColour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 D01 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4 B02 Colour Fastness to Perspiration BS EN ISO 105 4 E04

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.7 - TROUSERS, SHORTS AND LEGGINGS - KNITTED

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENT PHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 7% max. - Care Label Wash Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial 7% max. cycle Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Appearance after Dry Cleaning In house method Satisfactory Bursting Strength BS4768 250 kPa Resistance to Pilling BS5811 4 3 hours after cleaning Resistance to Abrasion BS EN ISO 12947 15,000 Rubs Part 2 Shade change 4 at 5,000 Rubs COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 D01 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4 B02

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.8 - KNITWEAR

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENT PHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 7% max. - Care Label Wash No rib extension Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial 7% max. cycle No rib extension Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Appearance after Dry Cleaning In house method Satisfactory Bursting Strength BS4768 250 kPa Resistance to Pilling BS5811 3 - 4 3 hours after cleaning COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 D01 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4 B02 Colour Fastness to Perspiration BS EN ISO 105 4 E04

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.9 - JEANS AND DENIMS

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENT PHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max. - Care Label Wash Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial + or - 3% max. cycle Appearance after Washing assessment In house method. Satisfactory Appearance after Dry Cleaning In house method Satisfactory Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934 20Kg part 2 Tear Strength ASTM D1424 1200g Seam Strength BS3320 15 kg Seam Slippage BS3320 10kg Seam opening 6mm. Resistance to Pilling BS5811 3 - 4 5 hours after cleaning Resistance to Abrasion BS EN ISO 12947 20,000 Rubs Part 2 Shade change 4 at 5,000 Rubs COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 3-4 C06 Staining 3-4 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 3-4 E01 Staining 3-4 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 3-4 X12 Wet 3

Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4 B02

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.10 - DRESSING GOWNS, HOUSECOATS AND BATHROBES TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENTPHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max.woven - Care Label Wash + or - 7% max knitted Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Tensile Strength - woven BS EN ISO 13934 11Kg part 2 Tear Strength - woven ASTM D1424 750g Bursting Strength - knitted BS4768 250kPa Seam Strength BS3320 10 kg Seam Slippage BS3320 8kg Seam opening 6mm. Flammability Nightwear Safety Compliance Regulations - 1985 Surface Flash - Towelling only BS4569 No surface flash Pile Retention (Fleece only) In House Method COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5

Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4 B02 Colour Fastness to Perspiration BS EN ISO 105 4 E04

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD 11. - NIGHTDRESSES, UNDERWEAR AND PYJAMAS TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENTPHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max. - Care Label Wash Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Tensile Strength - woven BS EN ISO 13934 13kg part 2 Tear Strength - woven ASTM D1424 750g Bursting Strength - knitted BS4768 250kPa Seam Strength BS3320 13 kg Seam Slippage BS3320 10kg Seam opening 6mm. Flammability Nightwear Safety Compliance Regulations - 1985 Surface Flash - Towelling only BS4569 Compliance Spirality Care label wash 5% max COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4 B02


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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.12 - SWIMWEAR AND BEACHWEAR

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENTPHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max. woven - Care Label Wash + or - 5% max. knitted Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Tensile Strength - woven BS EN ISO 13934 11Kg part 2 Tear Strength - woven ASTM D1424 900g Bursting Strength - knitted BS4768 250KPa Seam Strength BS3320 12 Kg Seam Slippage BS3320 10Kg Seam opening 6mm. Surface Flash - Towelling only BS4569 No surface flash Spirality Care label wash 5% max. Stretch and recovery BS4952 Method 2.4 95% Recovery (More than 5% elastane) 2Kg load COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Sea Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 3-4 D01 Staining 3-4 Staining contrasts 3-4

Chlorinated Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 3-4 100 ppm swimwear E03 50ppm beachwear Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 Swimwear 5 B02 Beachwear 4

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FASTENINGS AND TRIMS TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENT Metal Corrosion BS4162 No Corrosion method 10:1983 No Staining Toxicity - Nickel - Metal components EN1811 0.5 milligrams/cm²/week in continuous contact with skin. Bra Wire Flexibility In house method Bra Wire Sharp Edges/ Points EN71 part 1 Compliance Clauses 9:11 and 9:12

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.13 - POCKETS AND LININGS

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENTPHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max. - Care Label Wash Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial + or - 3% max. cycle Appearance after Washing assessment In house method. Satisfactory Tensile Strength - woven (Grab) BS EN ISO 13934 20 kg Pocket Part 2 12 kg Lining Tear Strength - woven ASTM D1424 750g Bursting Strength - knitted BS4768 250kPa Seam Strength BS3320 15 kg Seam Slippage BS3320 10 kg Seam opening 6mm. Resistance to Abrasion BS EN ISO 12947 Pockets 25,000 Rubs Part 2 Linings 20,000 Rubs COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 Lining only 4 B02

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO. 14 - CORSETRY TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENTPHYSICAL TESTS

Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Tensile Strength - woven (Grab) BS EN ISO 13934 20 kg. min. Warp and Weft part 2 Tear strength - woven ASTM D1424 - 63 1200g. min. Elmendorf 100% cellulosics & polyester/cellulosic blends only. Warp and Weft Bursting strength - knitted BS4768 Main fabric 300 kPa 30mm diaphragm Lace fabric 175 kpa Bra Strap Strength BSEN13934 14 kg. min. Stretch and recovery BS4952 method 2.4 Residual extension after 2 kg. load 30 minutes 10% COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 Care label wash C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 3 B02 Print durability In house method 4 Phenolic Yellowing In house method 4 Metal Corrosion BS4162 No Corrosion method 10:1983 No Staining Toxicity - Nickel - Metal components EN1811 Nickel content in continuous contact with skin. 0.5 milligrams/cm²/week Bra Wire Flexibility In house method Bra Wire Sharp Edges/ Points EN71 part 1 Compliance Clauses 9:11 and 9:12

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.15 - LEATHER AND SUEDE

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENT Seam Strength BS3320 Minimum 50N Flexing BS3424 part 9:11C No worse than slight cracking at 500,000 flexes Zip Functionability BS3084 Compliance Eyelets Visual assessment Securely attached, flush at back - NO sharp edges Buckle loop attachment Instron pull test COLOUR FASTNESSTEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENT Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4

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J.D. Williams Group Textile Performance Standards Menswear

1. SHIRTS - WOVEN 2. TROUSERS AND SHORTS - WOVEN 3. SHIRTS AND TOPS - KNITTED 4. JACKETS AND SUITS 5. KNITWEAR 6. JEANS AND DENIMS 7. BATHROBES 8. UNDERWEAR AND PYJAMAS 9. SWIMWEAR AND BEACHWEAR 10. POCKETS AND LININGS 11. SOCKS 12. LEATHER AND SUEDE Notes ;

1. Pilling tests are to be carried out on all blends with synthetic yarns. 2. For the safety standards of studs, eyelets, rivets, press fasteners , zips, buttons and motifs –

Please refer to this section at the end of the manual.

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.1 - SHIRTS - WOVEN

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENTPHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 ends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max. - Care Label Wash Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial + or - 3% max. cycle Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Appearance after Dry Cleaning In house method Satisfactory Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934 16 kg part 2 Tear Strength ASTM D1424 1000g Seam Strength BS3320 10 kg Seam Slippage BS3320 7kg Seam opening 6mm. Resistance to Pilling BS5811 3 - 4 5 hours after cleaning Resistance to Abrasion BS EN ISO 12947 15,000 Rubs Part 2 Shade change 4 at 5,000 Rubs COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 D01 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4 B02 Colour Fastness to Perspiration BS EN ISO 105 4 E04

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Print Durability In House Method

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.2 - TROUSERS AND SHORTS - WOVEN

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENT PHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max. - Care Label Wash Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial + or - 3% max. cycle Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Appearance after Dry Cleaning In house method Satisfactory Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934 20kg part 2 Tear Strength ASTM D1424 1000g Seam Strength BS3320 15 kg Seam Slippage BS3320 10kg Seam opening 6mm. Resistance to Pilling BS5811 4 5 hours after cleaning Resistance to Abrasion BS EN ISO 12947 15,000 Rubs Part 2 Shade change 4 at 5,000 Rubs Wrinkle Recovery AATCC Spec. 128 4 Steam Pressing - Free Steam (WIRA) BS4323 + or - 2% COLOUR FASTNESSColour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 D01

Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4 B02

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.3 - SHIRTS AND TOPS - KNITTED

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENT PHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 7% max. - Care Label Wash Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial + or - 7% max. cycle Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Appearance after Dry Cleaning In house method Satisfactory Bursting Strength BS4768 250 kPa Resistance to Pilling BS5811 3 - 4 5 hours after cleaning Spirality Care label wash 5% max. COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 D01 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4 B02 Colour Fastness to Perspiration BS EN ISO 105 4 E04

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.4 - JACKETS AND SUITS

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENTPHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max. - Care Label Wash Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial + or - 3% max. cycle Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Appearance after Dry Cleaning In house method Satisfactory Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934 15 kg part 2 Tear Strength ASTM D1424 1000g Seam Strength BS3320 15 kg Seam Slippage BS3320 10 kg Seam opening 6mm. Resistance to Pilling BS5811 3 - 4 5 hours after cleaning Resistance to Abrasion BS EN ISO 12947 15,000 Rubs Part 2 Shade change 4 at 5,000 Rubs Wrinkle Recovery AATCC Spec. 128 4 Steam Pressing - Free Steam (WIRA) BS4323 + or - 2% COLOUR FASTNESSColour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 D01 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4

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B02

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.5 - KNITWEAR

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENT PHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 7% max. - Care Label Wash No rib extension Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial + or - 7% max. cycle No rib extension Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Appearance after Dry Cleaning In house method Satisfactory Bursting Strength BS4768 300 kPa Resistance to Pilling BS5811 3 - 4 3 hours after cleaning COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 D01 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4 B04 Colour Fastness to Perspiration BS EN ISO 105 4 E04

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.6 - JEANS AND DENIMS

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENT PHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max. - Care Label Wash Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial + or - 3% max. cycle Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Appearance after Dry Cleaning In house method Satisfactory Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934 20 kg part 2 Tear Strength ASTM D1424 1200g Seam Strength BS3320 15 kg Seam Slippage BS3320 10 kg Seam opening 6mm. Resistance to Pilling BS5811 4 5 hours after cleaning Resistance to Abrasion BS EN ISO 12947 20,000 Rubs Part 2 Shade change 4 at 5,000 Rubs COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 3-4 C06 Staining 3-4 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 3-4 E01 Staining 3-4 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 3-4 X12 Wet 3 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4 B02

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.7 - BATHROBES TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENTPHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max. woven - Care Label Wash + or - 7% max. knitted Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Tensile Strength - woven BS EN ISO 13934 11 kg part 2 Tear Strength - woven ASTM D1424 750g Bursting Strength - knitted BS4768 250kPa Seam Strength BS3320 10 kg Seam Slippage BS3320 8 kg Seam opening 6mm. Flammability Nightwear Safety Compliance Regulations - 1985 Surface Flash - Towelling only BS4569 No surface flash Pile Retention (fleece only) In House Method COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4

Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4 B02 Colour Fastness to Perspiration BS EN ISO 105 4 E04

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD 8. - UNDERWEAR AND PYJAMAS TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENTPHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max. woven - Care Label Wash + or - 8% max. knitted Appearance after Washing assessment In house method. Satisfactory Tensile Strength - woven BS EN ISO 13934 13 kg part 2 Tear Strength - woven ASTM D1424 750g Bursting Strength - knitted BS4768 250kPa Seam Strength BS3320 13 kg Seam Slippage BS3320 10 kg Seam opening 6mm. Flammability Nightwear Safety Compliance Regulations - 1985 Spirality Care label wash + or - 5% COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4 B02


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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.9 - SWIMWEAR AND BEACHWEAR

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENTPHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max. woven - Care Label Wash + or - 5% max. knitted Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Tensile Strength - woven BS EN ISO 13934 11 kg part 2 Tear Strength - woven ASTM D1424 900g Bursting Strength - knitted BS4768 250kPa Seam Strength BS3320 12 kg Seam Slippage BS3320 10 kg Seam opening 6mm. Surface Flash - Towelling only BS4569 No surface flash Spirality Care label wash + or - 5% Stretch and recovery BS4952 Method 2.4 95% Recovery 2 kg load COLOUR FASTNESSColour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Sea Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 3-4 D01 Staining 3-4 Staining contrasts 3-4

Chlorinated Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 3-4 100 ppm swimwear E03 taining 3-4 50 ppm beachwear Staining contrasts 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 Swimwear 5 B02 Others 4

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.10 - POCKETS AND LININGS

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENTPHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max. - Care Label Wash Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial + or - 3% max. cycle Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Tensile Strength - woven BS EN ISO 13934 20 kg - pocketing part 2 12 kg - lining Tear Strength - woven ASTM D1424 750g Bursting Strength - knitted BS4768 250kPa Seam Strength BS3320 15 kg - pocketing 10 kg - lining Seam Slippage BS3320 10 kg - pocketing Seam opening 6mm. 8 kg - lining Resistance to Abrasion BS EN ISO 12947 Pockets 25,000 Rubs Part 2 Linings 10,000 Rubs COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 Lining only 4 B04

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO. 11 - SOCKS TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENTPHYSICAL TESTS

Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 8% max. - Foot/leg - Care Label Wash length satisfactory fit on sock board. Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Bursting Strength - knitted BS4768 Main fabric 250 Kpa Resistance to Pilling BS5811 4 5 hours after cleaning Resistance to Abrasion BS EN IS0 12947 20,000 Rubs Part 2 Shade change 4 at 5,000 Rubs COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 Care label wash C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 3 B02

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PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.12 - LEATHER AND SUEDE

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENT Seam Strength BS3320 Minimum 50N Flexing BS3424 part 9:11C No worse than slight cracking at 500,000 flexes Zip Functionability BS3084 Compliance Eyelets Visual assessment Securely attached, flush at back - NO sharp edges Buckle loop attachment Instron pull test COLOUR FASTNESSTEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENT Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4

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J.D. Williams Group Textile Performance Standards

OUTERWEAR 1. WATER REPELLENT APPAREL 2. COATS

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OUTERWEAR

PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.1 - SHOWER RESISTANT APPAREL

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENTPHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max. - Care Label Wash Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial + or - 3% max. cycle Appearance after Washing assessment In house method Satisfactory Appearance after Dry Cleaning In house method Satisfactory Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934 15 kg part 2 Tear Strength ASTM D1424 1000g Seam Strength BS3320 15 kg Seam Slippage BS3320 10 kg Seam opening 6mm. Resistance to Pilling BS5811 3-4 5 hours after cleaning Non woven - 3 hours Resistance to Abrasion BS EN ISO 12947 15,000 Rubs Part 2 Shade change 4 at 5,000 Rubs Fibre percolation (wadded garments) BS EN 12132 Part 1 Maximun of 6 fibres after 6,000 rubs. COLOUR FASTNESSColour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 D01 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4

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B02

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OUTERWEAR

PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.1 - SHOWER RESISTANT APPAREL (CONT.)

TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENT Water Repellence BS EN 29865 Rain Resistant 0-10cm. 3 (Bandesmann) penetration Shower Resistant 10-50cm. 3 penetration Spray Rating (Shower resistant) BS EN 24920 Grade 4 Hydrostatic head (coated fabrics) BS EN 20811 No penetration @ 100cm head of water

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OUTERWEAR

PERFORMANCE STANDARD NO.2 - COATS TEST DETAILS METHOD REQUIREMENT PHYSICAL TESTS Fibre Composition BS4407 Blends + or - 3% of declaration Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330 + or - 3% max. - Care Label Wash Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One commercial + or - 3% max. cycle Appearance after Washing assessment See appendix 1. Satisfactory Appearance after Dry Cleaning See appendix 1. Satisfactory Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934 20 kg part 2 Tear Strength ASTM D1424 1200 g Seam Strength BS3320 10 kg Seam Slippage BS3320 7 kg Seam opening 6mm. Resistance to Pilling BS5811 3-4 5 hours after cleaning Non woven - 3 hours Resistance to Abrasion BS EN ISO 12947 15,000 Rubs Part 2 Shade change 4 at 5,000 Rubs Fibre Percolation (Wadded garments) BS EN 12132 Max 6 Part 1 Max. 6 fibres COLOUR FASTNESS Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 C06 Staining 4 Staining contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning BS EN ISO 105 Colour change 4 D01

Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 Colour Change 4 E01 Staining 4 Staining Contrasts 4-5 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 Dry 4 X12 Wet 3-4

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Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 4 B02

Component Safety Requirements Brace Clip Fasteners All brace clip fasteners must be fitted with a closing cap, commonly known as a

closed end. Brace clip fasteners must be checked for sharp edges or burrs before being

attached. Fasteners must be Nickel free.

Buckles Buckles which are sewn to garments or their accessories should be firmly

stitched on both sides of the central pin. Buckles must be Nickel free.

Buttons All buttons used must conform to BS4162 and must not contain toxic elements in

excess of the limits stipulated under UK performance standards BS5665 / EN71. Buttons must be sewn through not less than two plies of fabric using lockstitch

button sew. All garment washed items must have buttons attached after the washing process. Buttons must be Nickel free.

Elastication To avoid garments feeling uncomfortable it is essential that all elastication

measurements given on approved size charts should be adhered to during production.

On garments where the back rise or side seam is closed after multi-needle elastication, the seam allowance must be either lockstitched or bar tacked flat to reduce bulk and therefore avoid discomfort.

Embroidery / Appliqué / Motifs and Badges All non woven backing material must be removed from around the embroidery

and also from large areas within the embroidery. Appliqué work must be tested to ensure that the fabric is held securely by the

embroidery stitch. Fusible motifs and badges must be securely attached and cleaned of all residue

after fusing. Wash tests should be carried out regularly during the production process to ensure that fusing is secure. All thread ends and floats must be removed.

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Eyelet's All eyelet's used on garments or accessories must be clearly dented over to stop

any sharp edges being felt on the reverse side. All waste punched from the holes must be removed. A backing tape must be used wherever possible to prevent eyelet's coming out during wear.

All eyelet's must be Nickel free. Fur Trims All fake materials used for trims must be non-shedding.

Pom Poms Pom pom threads must be secure and when a group of threads are grasped they

must not pull away. Do not pull at individual threads. Pom poms must be securely attached by button sew or bar tack machine.

Stud Buttons / Rivets All stud buttons and rivets must be securely attached through at least two plies of

fabric and should withstand a pulling force of 70 Newton's using a tensile testing machine.

All stud buttons and rivets should be sourced from an approved supplier (contact your Technologist) must be non-ferrous and free from burrs.

All stud buttons and rivets must be Nickel free. Garment Washed Garments All stone washed garments must be washed before buttons, eyelet's, poppers

and labels are attached. After stone washing all garments must be checked to ensure that all stones have

been removed from pockets. All sand washed garments must be cleared of dust and sand residue.

Zip Fasteners Pinlock zips are not acceptable. YKK Kensin products must be used on all garments passing through needle

detectors. Production Broken needle policy - Please refer to Safety Requirements

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Metal Detection - Please refer to Safety Requirements

Choice of Fastener Prong fasteners must always be used on knitted fabrics and post fasteners

should be used on woven fabrics. The length of the prong must be matched accurately to the compressed fabric

thickness of the area to which it is to be applied. All metal fasteners must be made of brass. All lacquered and enamelled finishes

must satisfy the requirements of BS5665, part 3, clause 8:2. The fastener manufacturer must carry out assessments on each garment with the

maker at selection stage. Garment Design Press fasteners must not be applied across seams or at any other areas where

uncontrolled thickness variations could result in inadequate clenching of the fastener.

Press fasteners with different prong lengths must not be used In the same garment.

Lightweight knitted fabrics prone to laddering may required reinforcing with fusible/ non-fusible interlining or separate facing/placket

Fastener Attachment Machines Machines from one manufacturer must not be used to apply fasteners from

another manufacturer unless otherwise certified by the relevant fastener manufacturer.

Fastener attachment machines operated by direct foot applied pressure must not be used. Machines must be semi or fully automatic powered by electricity.

Fastener manufacturers offer a good after sales service and must be called in regularly to service the machines.

Sealing Procedure After confirmation of an order the fastener manufacturer must be contacted by

the maker and a Garment Report Sheet completed for each style. It is the responsibility of the maker to carry out any recommendations contained

in the Garment Report Sheet before submission of sealing samples. A completed Garment Report Sheet for each style must be submitted to the

appropriate Technologist along with the sealing samples. A Garment Report Sheet to show that the application machine has been

inspected and correctly set for production must be sent on commencement of bulk for each style by the maker. A lab test should also be sent at this stage.

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Quality Control and Inspection The security of attachment must be measured using a tensile testing machine as

a destructive lab test. Quicker, non destructive, methods of assessment must be carried out as part of the daily quality control routine;

1. The back of all prong components must be flat. A rounded appearance indicates insufficient clenching pressure (machine pitch setting). 2. It must be impossible to move or rotate the fabric around the press fastener. 3. The fabric must be firmly clamped so it is impossible to insert a finger nail between the press fastener and the fabric. 4. Coloured or enamel components must not be damaged or chipped after application, this indicates a machine fault.

Garment inspection must include the opening and closing of all press fasteners at least once as it would be carried out by the customer.

Garments with closed feet must be turned inside out to ensure no loose components have fallen into the garment. It is safer to apply the fasteners whilst the garment is inside out, ensuring no components remain inside.

Press fasteners must not be removed or repositioned. Destructive Testing All press fasteners on a garment must withstand a pulling force of 70 Newton's

using a tensile testing machine.

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