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    Beach Erosion along the Northeast Texas Coast

    Young Hyun Park{ and Billy L. Edge{*

    {BK21 SIR Group

    Department of Civil and Environmental

    EngineeringSeoul National University

    South Korea

    {Haynes Coastal Engineering Laboratory

    Zachry Department of Civil Engineering

    Texas A&M UniversityCollege Station, TX 77843-3136, U.S.A.

    [email protected]

    ABSTRACT

    PARK, Y.H. and EDGE, B.L., 2011. Beach erosion along the northeast Texas coast. Journal of Coastal Research, 27(3),502514. West Palm Beach (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

    Some areas of the Texas coast along the Gulf of Mexico are stabilized by beach nourishment or artificial protections, butthe northeast Texas coast has been damaged and changed by short- and long-period erosion. The berm or dune that canact as protection from wave activities rarely exists, and mild, sloping beaches increase the potential of erosion in thestudy area. The upper Texas coast was monitored by Texas A&M University between 1999 and 2005. The measuredbeach profiles showed the morphological short- and long-period changes by overwash, and critical erosion was observed,especially by the landfall of hurricane Rita in 2005. The suspected causes of severe erosion were analyzed by comparingdune heights and beach widths, and it was found that overwash was one of the major factors causing erosion of the

    shoreline in the area. When storms made landfall in neighboring regions, such as southern Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi,

    and Alabama, overwash by long-period waves of remote storms was observed during the beach surveys. Overwash byremote storms could not be ignored, and it was an important contributor to continued beach erosion in the study area.Erosion caused by direct landfall of storms had significant effects on long-period erosion as well.

    ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: Remote storm, storm, hurricane, beach erosion, overwash, short-period, long-period,Texas.

    INTRODUCTION

    The northeast Texas coast has experienced extreme erosion

    and has retreated for decades, though the area was directly

    impacted by landfalls of only two storms from 1991 to 2005

    (Tables 1 and 2). The area has been studied for decades, and

    overwash is strongly suspected as the main cause of erosion.Overwash is the phenomenon of sediment transport with

    overtopping, defined as a form of coastal flooding that can

    move sediment landward, and it is a precursor to barrier

    breaching, as described by Donnellyet al. (2004). Leatherman

    (1983) said that Atlantic coast barriers whose widths are less

    than200 m suffer overwash frequently. Because our study area

    was located in the Gulf of Mexico, his conclusions could not be

    directly applied. However, because the beach in the study area

    was quite narrow and flat with small dunes, its morphological

    characteristics resulted in severe erosion during even minor

    overwash events.

    If overwash wereprevented by some means, erosion would be

    reduced.However, the shoreline and the offshore area continue

    to be eroded. The offshore area, which is composed of finesediments commonly found on the northeast Texas coast, is

    eroded constantly. The shoreline continues to be eroded during

    major storms, and much sediment is transported seaward.

    These are general beach processes that cause cross-shore

    erosion. Because cross-shore sediment transport was dominant

    and several overwash events were observed in the study area,

    overwash by storms was investigated as a main cause of

    erosion. The study area was directly and remotely affected by

    storms in the Gulf of Mexico.

    Overwash generally happens at the landfall of a storm, but

    only two direct landfalls occurred in the study area between1991 and 2005: landfalls of Tropical Storm Ivan (2004) and

    Hurricane Rita (2005) occurred at the end of the period.

    However, because the continuous beach erosion problem by

    overwash could not be explained by these direct landfalls, we

    needed to focus on other causes. Overwash induced by remote

    storms was frequently observed during beach surveys, and

    remote storms were believed to be one of the main causes of

    overwash in the study area. The objective of this study was to

    investigate overwash of remote storms by analyzing multiple

    characteristics of beach erosion in this area.

    In this article, the geological and hydrodynamic character-

    istics of the study area are described, followed by an

    explanation of the methods of short- and long-period beach

    surveys. Analyses are presented of beach erosion based on

    short- and long-period measurements, beach erosion by direct

    landfall of storms and remote storms, and overwash deter-

    mined by comparing dune andbeach width with beach erosion.

    These sections are followed by our conclusions.

    CHARACTERISTICS OF THE STUDY AREA

    The study area ranged from High Island to Sabine Pass near

    the border between Texas and Louisiana, shown in Figure 1.

    DOI: 10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-09-00042.1 received 19 April 2009;accepted in revision 24 February 2010.

    * Corresponding author Coastal Education & Research Foundation 2011

    Journal of Coastal Research 27 3 502514 West Palm Beach, Florida May 2011

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    The shallow water is turbid from suspended sediment from the

    Mississippi and Atchafalaya rivers; this fine sediment changes

    the coastline and coastal environment in this area by

    suspension, transport, erosion, and deposition. The study area

    is located on the Louisiana-Texas continental shelf. The

    maximum and minimum widths of the continental shelf are

    200 km at the Louisiana border and 30 km in south Texas,respectively. The depth at the seaward boundary of the shelf is

    180m, and theshelf forms a mild slope from theshoreline. The

    study area is affected by wind and waves mostly from the

    southeast, but their strength is not enough to cause critical

    erosion except during severe storms.

    Geologically thin barrier beach sands overlying the Pleisto-

    cene headland (Beaumont Formation) occur between Sabine

    Pass and High Island. The area near Sea Rim State Park is an

    anomalous sandy beach that has been attributed to sand derived

    locally from underlying Pleistocene river deposits (Morton,

    1979) and/or possibly the convergence of littoral cells. The

    shoreface between the McFadden National Wildlife Refuge to

    the west of Sea Rim State Park and High Island consists of a

    headland that is composed of late Pleistocene fluvial-deltaic

    deposits. Beaches in this region are narrow and are often

    covered by shell pads that migrate along the beach, depending

    on wave heights and sedimenttransport direction. The foreshore

    is steep and berm crests are well defined where thick shell pads

    are present. Nevertheless, many areas of the Beaumont

    Formation are exposed on the surface of the shoreface.

    Texas Highway 87 along the northeast Texas coast was

    destroyed by Hurricane Jerry (Category 1) in 1989, and it has

    remained without any restoration. Direct impacts by storms

    were rare in the study area, and only two landfalls of storms

    occurred during the monitoring surveys: Tropical Storm Ivan(2004) and Hurricane Rita (2005).

    The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (Waters, 2003) conducted

    a shoreline erosioncontrol demonstration project, which was

    located about 3.6km away from theeast endof theshort-period

    study area. Waters (2003) showed that the average wave

    heights were estimated to be between 0.76 and 0.91 m in

    summer and between 1.2 and 1.4 m in winter. The mean tide

    range was 0.39 m. We also surveyed the control project area

    and observed that the erosion control demonstration project

    created a relatively stable area with the long-period rate of

    retreat of about 1.5 m/y. This value was much less than the

    valueof Morton (1997)of 3.7m/yand therateof retreat of3.5 m/

    y from this study along all survey lines.

    In this study, beachsampleswere collected from dune, beach

    face, and subaqueous areas from the north Galveston jetty to

    Sabine Pass, and the median grain size (D50) was measured.

    The results are presented in Table 3; the presence of clay was

    observed in almosthalfof the sites(8 of 19). Sand samples could

    Table 1. Tropical cyclones in the period 20002005 (NOAA, 2006) near the northeast Texas coast.

    Name Class Landfall Date

    Data

    Peak Wind (km/h) Pressure (mb)

    Rita Hurricane, Cat. 3 Port Arthur, Texas 9/24/05 193 937

    Katrina Hurricane, Cat. 3 Southeast Louisiana 8/29/05 201 920

    Ivan (landfall twice) Hurricane, Cat. 3 Alabama 9/16/04 (first landfall) 193 943

    Tropical storm Port Arthur, Texas 9/23/04 (second

    landfall)

    65 1003

    Bill Tropical storm Southeast Louisiana 6/30/03 52 997

    Claudette Hurricane, Cat. 1 Port OConnor, Texas 7/15/03 96 981

    Grace Tropical storm Between Port OConnor and

    Freeport, Texas

    8/31/03 65 1007

    Fay Tropical storm Palacios, Texas 9/06/02 93 998

    Lili Hurricane, Cat. 2 South central Louisiana 10/03/02 148 963

    Table 2. Landfalls of storms around the upper Texas coast from 1991 to 2005.

    North Texas South Texas Louisiana Mississippi Alabama Total

    1991 0

    1992 1 1

    1993 1 1

    1994 1 1 2

    1995 1 1 1 3

    1996 0

    1997 1 1

    1998 2 1 1 1 5

    1999 1 1

    2000 1 1

    2001 1 1 2

    2002 2 1 1 1 5

    2003 2 1 3

    2004 1 1 1 3

    2005 1 2 2 5

    Total 2 10 6 5 10 33

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    not be collected from Sea Rim State Park to Sabine Pass

    because the recently deposited fine-grained deposits were too

    soft and deep to walk on. The average median grain sizes were

    0.171 mm, 0.165 mm, and 0.155 mm at dunes, beach faces, and

    surf zones, respectively.

    A thin layer of sand overlay the clay, and both Pleistocene

    and Holocene clays were exposed due to a deficiency of sand in

    most of the area. Substantial wave damping was observed in

    some locations with an aqueous muddy bottom. Tuttle (2000)

    studied the impact of these aqueous muddy bottoms in

    Jefferson County and found that waves are damped quicklyin these areas. Tuttle noted that the density of the mud is

    closely related to viscosity, with denser mud showing higher

    viscosity. Zhang and Zhao (1999) found that dense and viscous

    mud responds more slowly in wave action and causes wave

    energy dissipation. The exposed mud of Pleistocene and

    Holocene periods by erosion of veneer sand along the study

    area is shown in Figure 2. We believe that wave heights in the

    study area were reduced due to viscous damping by the muddy

    bottom.

    METHODS

    To assess beach erosion due to remote storms, beach profiles

    in fixed locations and wave data were analyzed. Time-series

    surveys were conducted for the beach profiles, and wave data

    were obtained from the National Data Buoy Center (NDBC).

    Beach erosion was analyzed using changes in beach profiles,

    dunes, and beach widths. The profiles were measured using

    real time kinematicdifferential global positioning system

    equipment with approximately 2-cm accuracy in vertical andhorizontal directions, but the resolution varied with the

    distance from the base station. A dual frequency echosounder

    was used in the measurement of water depth.

    Beach profiles along the study area were measured by our

    research team from 1999 to 2005. There were initially 156

    survey lines betweenHigh Island and SabinePass, but only the

    even-numbered lines were measured throughout the duration

    of the survey. The distance from the first to the last line was

    about 31 km, and the interval between each line was

    Figure 1. Aerial photo of the study area and the location of cross-shore survey lines along the northeast Texas coast (Google Earth, 2009).

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    approximately 400 m. The coordinates of several survey lines

    and the survey periods are given in Table 4.

    The surveys were conducted to monitor short- and long-

    period beach changes. The long-period surveys were conducted

    eachseasonbetween 1999and 2002. Theshort-periodintensive

    surveys were repeated seven times for lines 126 and 128between 2004 and2005 by Park (2006). Lines126 and 128were

    selected due to high potential for overwash. Each beach profile

    was measured from the dune to the closure depth at a distance

    of 600 m offshore. The measured beach profiles were analyzed

    in short and long periods separately, and the data were

    analyzed by comparing changes in dune and in beach width.

    COASTAL PROCESSES

    Sand Budget

    Morang (2006) discussed sediment transport in the study

    area as part of a study to determine options for long-period

    stabilization of the shoreline from Sabine River to San LouisPass, southwest of Galveston. He noted that 75% of sediment

    movement is in the cross-shore direction and only 25% of sand

    moves alongshore. In the cross-shore movement, 40% of eroded

    sand moves offshore and 35% of sand is eroded and moved by

    overwash. Our study area does not have a balance alongshore

    in sand budget either. Sediment transport by overwash was

    directly related to the intensity of the storm, waves, and storm

    surge level, andan increase of overwash might be a main cause

    of permanent shoreline recession.

    Long-Period Changes

    Morton (1979) concluded that three factorsdeficit in

    sediment, sea level rise, and storm activitiescontributed to

    long-period changes along the southeast Texas coast. Morton

    (1997) studied beach erosion in the area between Sabine Passand Galveston Island and showed therateof retreat depictedin

    Figure 3. He found that the maximum rate of retreat (9.8 m/y)

    was observed between Sabine Pass and Sea Rim State Park

    over 23 years (1974 to 1996). The average rate of retreat was

    3.7 m/y in the study area between 1974 and 1996 (Morton,

    1997). Oursurveys showed that theaverage rate of retreat was

    3.5m/y at L126 and L128 before thelandfall of HurricaneRita,

    but it sharply increased to 5.2 m/y due to the hurricanes

    impact. It seemed that the rate of retreat almost kept constant

    between 1974 and 1996; the study area has been suffering the

    retreat of the shoreline for a long time.

    Short-Period Changes

    The data for short-period changes were collected and

    analyzed from 2004 to 2005. The beach profiles of L124 and

    L126 are shown in Figure 4. Only two storms made landfall in

    the study area during this period (Table 1), and the major

    short-period changes occurred from the impact of these two

    storms. The average rate of retreat was 5.2 m/y between 1999

    and 2005 in the study area, which includes the landfall of

    Hurricane Rita and long-period waves generated by Hurricane

    Katrina. These storms caused considerable retreat of the

    Table 3. The measured sand size along the upper Texas coast (from north Galveston Island) in 2003.

    Coordinate Location D50 (mm) Coordinate Location D50 (mm)

    29u24917.0500 N, 94u42921.2360 W Berm 0.164 29u25942.0340 N, 94u40930.3300 W Berm 0.151

    Beach face 0.141 Beach face 0.150

    Surf zone 0.130 Surf zone 0.152

    29u26951.9680 N, 94u38924.3850 W Berm 0.166 29u28949.1070 N, 94u33957.2190 W Berm 0.181

    Beach face 0.155 Beach face 0.180

    Surf zone 0.202 Surf zone 0.135

    29u29944.1080 N, 94u31941.6910 W Berm 0.130 29u30936.4400 N, 94u29925.0120 W Berm 0.142

    Beach face 0.162 Beach face 0.165

    Surf zone 0.171 Surf zone 0.145

    29u31928.9380 N, 94u27908.1560 W Berm 0.171 29u32920.6110 N, 94u24950.8960 W Berm 0.212

    Beach face 0.181 Beach face 0.187

    Surf zone 0.192 Surf zone 0.182

    29u33912.5340 N, 94u22933.7270 W Berm 0.224 29u34902.7830 N, 94u20915.7020 W Berm 0.197

    Beach face 0.195 Beach face 0.195

    Surf zone 0.159 Surf zone Clay

    29u34955.3120 N, 94u17958.8670 W Berm 0.214 29u35949.8480 N, 94u15940.1600 W Berm 0.212

    Beach face 0.178 Beach face 0.208

    Surf zone Clay Surf zone Clay

    29u36943.2860 N, 94u13924.8520 W Berm 0.223 29u37936.9540 N, 94u11904.6300 W Berm 0.189

    Beach face Clay Beach face 0.152

    Surf zone Clay Surf zone Clay

    29u38929.2000 N, 94u08950.5610 W Berm 0.150 29u39918.4100 N, 94u06933.6360 W Berm 0.137

    Beach face 0.174 Beach face 0.132

    Surf zone Clay Surf zone 0.123

    29u40900.4250 N, 94u04912.7360 W Berm 0.088 29u40936.7800 N, 94u01926.0160 W Berm 0.158

    Beach face Clay Beach face 0.120

    Surf zone Clay Surf zone 0.111

    29u40954.4950 N, 93u58957.4080 W Berm 0.145

    Beach face 0.129

    Surf zone Clay

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    shoreline in 2005. Hurricane Rita was responsible for the

    retreat of 15 m at L126 and L128 during landfall.

    The measured profiles indicated that some eroded sediments

    were transported and deposited behind the backshore and the

    rest were moved and deposited at the toeof the beach face. The

    ratio of landward and seaward transport by overwash was

    studied by Park (2006), who showed that the ratio of landward

    transport increased for steeper slopes, higher wave heights,

    and longer wave periods. Morton and Paine (1985) estimated

    that the sand volume of overwash caused by Hurricane Alicia

    (1983), a Category 3 storm at landfall, was about 12% of the

    total volume of eroded sand around the study area. However,

    Figure 2. The exposed mud bottom along the northeast Texas coast.

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    Stone et al. (1996) reported that 95%99% of sand eroded by

    Hurricane Opal, which made landfall as a Category 4 storm in

    Florida, was deposited on the dune and backshore. The sand

    deposited behind the dune by overwash does not easily return

    to its pre-overwash position (such as the top of the dune, beach

    face, etc.), and it might be a permanent loss of shoreline.

    The surveyed beach profiles shown in Figure 4 showed that

    the profile accreted in winter and eroded in summer between

    February 16, 2004, and September 21, 2005. This seasonal

    pattern was opposite to the general summer/winter beach

    pattern that maintained the shape of the beach by repeatingseasonal accretion and erosion in most of the stable beaches.

    Though the average wave height in the winter was almost 50%

    higher than in thesummer,the seasonal cycle wascollapsed by

    remote and direct impacts of storms along the upper Gulf of

    Mexico in summer.

    The erosion control project of the U.S. Army Corps of

    Engineers was tested with different dune configurations

    separated by six geotextile groins since 2004. The dunes

    between the groins were composed of sediments of multiple

    grain sizes, including clay fill. The site was located between

    L128 and L156, 3.6 km away from L128. The measured beach

    profiles are shown in Figure 5. These were explained in detail

    by Waters (2003). Waters mentioned some success of this

    demonstration project by showing deposition of sediment

    between the groins and the test dunes. The beach width was

    much less than the 200 m of stable beach width on the Atlantic

    coast suggested by Leatherman (1983), but it seemed that this

    area was becoming stable by accretion based on the measured

    profiles.

    In the area of the erosion control demonstration project,

    shoreline retreat was about 7 m by the impact of Hurricane

    Rita, but it returned to its previous position after a year.

    Morton, Paine, and Gibeaut (1994) mentioned the recovery

    processes ofthe erodedbeachby storms; 50m and 1.5 m are the

    minimum beach width and elevation for recovery processes,respectively. Though more data were needed for comparison,

    their reference values for beach stability seemed to match with

    our survey results in the study area.

    IMPACT OF STORMS

    Because it is difficult to predict landfall of storms with high

    accuracy 48 hours prior to landfall, many past surveys had

    trouble getting good-quality data for the impact of storms, due

    to distance between the survey area and the eye of the storm,

    the interval of surveys at landfall of the storm, etc. During the

    monitoring of long-period profile changes between 1999 and

    2005, only two landfalls were made in the study area. Tropical

    Storm Ivan and Hurricane Rita made landfall in 2004 and

    Table 4. The coordinates of survey lines along the upper Texas coast.

    Name Latitude Longitude Survey Period

    L1 29u33921.0380 N 94u22915.5540 W Fall 1999Spring 2002

    L50 29u35929.2630 N 94u16938.3270 W Fall 1999Spring 2002

    L126 29u38952.8150 N 94u07957.8870 W Fall 1999Sept. 2005

    L128 29u38957.9220 N 94u07944.1220 W Fall 1999Sept. 2005

    L156 29u40903.2180 N 94u04926.9650 W Fall 1999Spring 2002

    Waters site 29u39927.650 N 94u06912.880 W Dec. 2004Aug. 2006

    Figure 3. Average long-period shoreline change from 1974 to 1996 (Morton, 1997).

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    2005, respectively, and the latter caused extreme damage to

    inland areas as well as along the coastal study area. Overwash

    by remote storms was observed in the study area at landfall of

    Hurricanes Ivan and Katrina. Wave data were obtained from

    Station 42035 by the NDBC, and long-period waves by remotestorms are presented in Figure 6. Data losses by the severe

    impact of Hurricane Rita are also shown in the figure.

    Hurricane Ivan

    Hurricane Ivan made landfall twice. The first landfall was

    made with a wind speed of 193 km/h (Category 3 on the Saffir-

    Simpson scale) in Alabama on September 16, 2004. The storm

    moved inland, turned to the Atlantic Ocean, and then curved

    clockwise. It reentered the Gulf of Mexico and traveled

    westward. Its second landfall was made with a wind speed of

    74 km/h (tropical storm)at Sabine Pass on September 24,2004.

    During both landfalls, beacherosion occurred in thestudyarea

    as a result of overwash. The first overwash occurred by long-

    period waves from the remote Hurricane Ivan, and the secondwas caused by landfall of Tropical Storm Ivan with higher

    surge and shorter-period waves.

    Hurricane Katrina

    Hurricane Katrina produced the maximum wind speed of

    282 km/h (Category 5) in the Gulf of Mexico and was 201 km/h

    (Category 3) at landfall in Louisiana on August 29, 2005.

    Though thestudyarea was located about 450km away from its

    landfall, a massiveoverwash fan and inundation by long-period

    waves were observed in the study area at landfall. Overwash

    caused by Hurricane Katrina in the study area is shown in

    Figure 7.

    Hurricane Rita

    Hurricane Rita was another extreme storm in the Gulf of

    Mexico, occurring within a month of Hurricane Katrina. Rita

    made landfallwitha wind speedof 193 km/h(Category 3) at the

    Texas-Louisiana border on September 24, 2005. The beach

    profile measurements were conducted 3 days before landfall on

    September 21,2005, and 5 days after landfall on September 29,

    2005. The survey results provide good references for research

    in cross-shore beach erosion caused only by a storm, because

    the survey was conducted immediately before and after land-

    fall of thestorm. Thebeach and inland area near the study site

    were devastated, and civilian access was prohibited for several

    weeks. The eroded sand was transported and depositedbehind the dune. The retreat of the beach face was about

    15 m, and 33.8 m3/m of sand was eroded by Hurricane Rita.

    Dune heights were reduced by more than 1 m, or 50% of their

    original heights during landfall. The two photos in Figure 8

    were taken at each profile measurement: photo A was taken

    3 days before landfall, and photo B was taken 5 days after

    landfall. In each photo, landward and seaward sides are right

    Figure 4. Shoreline changes, including landfall of Hurricane Rita, during

    1999 and 2005.

    Figure 5. Beach profiles measured in the control study area (Waters, 2003).

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    and left, respectively. Though the photos were taken at the

    same location, they seemed to be different places due to the

    complete removal of small dunes, vegetation, and sand by

    Hurricane Rita and because of the presence of the exposed clay

    bottom by erosion.

    Remote Storms

    Because overwash was generated mainly by strong wave

    activities and/or storm surges, landfall of storms in areas and

    states surrounding the study area, such as south Texas,

    Figure 6. Wave data for Tropical Storm Ivan (2004) and Hurricanes Katrina (2005) and Rita (2005) from NDBC buoy 42035 off the Texas coast.

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    Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama, were also included in the

    investigation. There were33 landfalls in these states from1991

    through 2005, as shown in Table 2. Two direct landfalls were

    made by Tropical Storm Ivan in 2004 and Hurricane Rita in

    2005, as previously mentioned. This constituted only 6.1% of

    the 33 landfalls; almost 50% of landfalls were made in south

    Texas and Louisiana, which were adjacent to the study area.

    Though there was no direct landfall of storms during 1991 and

    2003, erosionand damage fromoverwash wereobserved during

    beach surveys. When Hurricane Katrina made landfall in

    Louisiana, some important evidence of overwash caused by a

    remote storm was found in the study area. It is believed that

    Figure 7. Overwash caused by remote impact of Hurricane Katrina (2005) in the study area.

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    the study area continued to erode by overwash caused by

    remote as well as direct landfalls.

    Though only five hurricanes were stronger than or equal

    to Category 3 between 1991 and 2003 in the Gulf of

    Mexico, three of these hurricanes were recorded in 2004 and

    2005. When we considered that 15 and 18 landfalls were

    made during the periods of 19912000 and 20012005,

    respectively, it seemed that the frequency and severity of

    storm activity was rapidly increasing after 2001, possibly due

    to climate change.

    Figure 8. The impact of Hurricane Rita at L126 and L128 in 2005, (A) 3 d before landfall, on September 21, 2005, and (B) 5 d after landfall, on September

    29, 2005.

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    OVERWASH

    The long-period surveys were conducted to analyze the

    characteristics of erosion along the northeast Texas coastbetween 1999 and 2002. Seventy-eight survey lines were

    carried out on the 31-km-long coastline. The elevations of

    dunes or backshore rarely exceeded 2 m above mean sea level

    (MSL) along the shoreline. The lowest dune or backshore was

    located betweenlines 126 and 128, and thisarea was frequently

    overwashed.

    The characteristics of overwash were analyzed by comparing

    changes in dune heights and beach widths with beach erosion.

    In this study, theduneheightwas measured on thefirst crest of

    dunethat prevented overwash. The beach width was calculated

    using the horizontal distance between the contact line of MSL

    on the beach face and the location where the maximum dune

    height was measured (Figure 9). The dune heights and beach

    widths along the study area are shown in Figure 9, and thechanges between the two time periods are given in Figure 10.

    The average dune height was 1.72 m in 1999; it had decreased

    by 0.02 m to 1.70 m in 2002. The average beach width was

    39.59 m in 1999; it was reduced by 6.91 m to 32.68 m in 2002.

    The width decreased the most in the area with the higher

    profile numbers, and no strong correlation was found between

    the change in dune height and beach width. Dune heights

    increased between lines 46 and 122 over the same period, but

    they decreased at the lines close to the border of Louisiana.

    Large decreases in dune height and beach width were clearly

    illustrated between lines 150 and 156.

    The landward and seaward movements of dunes and

    shorelines are shown in Figure 11. The decrease in beach

    width was caused by the movement of shoreline landward

    along most of the survey area, but the locations of dunes and

    shorelines moved seaward between lines 136 and 156 (Fig-

    ure 11). It was evident that this area was eroded by different

    conditions compared with other areas. Erosion by overwash

    might have been dominant between lines 1 and 134, because

    deposition was madeby the landwardmovement of eroded sand

    from the dunes, and the shoreline also moved landward due to

    overwash mostly from severe wave conditions. However,

    because the impact of overwash was not strong due to high

    dunes and wide beaches between lines 136 and 156, this

    shoreline was eroded mainly by waves and longshore current,

    and theseawardadvanceof the shoreline wascaused by erodedsediment from dunes. Park (2006) said that the intensity of

    overwash and the ratio of landward sediment transport are

    increased at steeper slopes, higher wave heights, and longer

    wave periods.

    There were four landfalls of storms in surrounding areas

    such as south Texas and Louisiana from 1999 to 2002, but any

    overwash caused by direct landfall of a storm did not occur in

    the study area. However, beach erosion by overwash continued,

    and we believe it was caused by remote storms.

    Figure 9. Dune heights and widths along the study area between fall 1999 and spring 2002.

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    CONCLUSIONS

    The northeast Texas coast has been severely eroded for a

    century, indicated by historical evidence that the highway and

    roadway along the beachfront have been relocated landward

    seven times. Morton (1997) analyzed long-period beach

    changes in the study area over 20 years by aerial photography

    and some ground-based surveys and estimated the rate of

    retreat of coastline to be about 3.7 m/y. This was almost the

    same rate of retreat measured in the study area between 1999

    and 2005 before landfall of Hurricane Rita (2005). But the rate

    sharply increased due to extreme overwash by landfall of that

    storm. Erosion caused by Hurricane Rita was critical, and the

    shoreline rapidly eroded by 12 to 15 m. Though the average

    Figure 10. Changes in dune heights and beach widths between 1999 and 2002.

    Figure 11. Movements of dune locations and mean sea level locations between 1999 and 2002.

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    wave height and tide did not cause shoreline recession by

    offshore transport or even alongshore transport, overwash was

    suspected as a major cause of shoreline recession.

    There were only two landfalling stormsTropical Storm

    Ivan in 2004 and Hurricane Rita in 2005but more than 90%

    of storms made landfall in distant areas such as south Texas,

    Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama, which affected the study

    area. It was observed that much erosion was caused by long-period waves of remote storms that made landfall in other

    areas of the Gulf of Mexico. When Hurricane Katrina made

    landfall in Louisiana 450 km away from the study area,

    inundation and erosion by overwash provided evidence of the

    impact of remote storms. Overwash by remote storms in the

    Gulf of Mexico was a main cause of continued beach erosion in

    the study area.

    Over the years, the upper Texas coast has been eroded by

    overwash; however, damage by overwash was not severe, and

    much fine-grained sediment was deposited in the upper Texas

    coast by various erosion deposition processes. Because the

    frequency of occurrence of storms sharply increasedin theGulf

    of Mexico after 2001, beach erosion along the Texas coast is

    likely to become more severe due to climate change.

    ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

    Support for this work was provided by Jefferson County,

    Texas, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers District in

    Galveston, Texas A&M University, and the Texas Sea Grant.

    The authors sincerely appreciate the support and encourage-

    ment of our colleagues.

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