DR ALEXANDER THIEMANN

Dr Straetmans

For blemish-free skin

4 / 2017

Jan-Peter Sander, BASF

“CLEARTARGETS”

GO FUTURE: BODY CAREFor a flawless body

SPOTLIGHT: CARDBOARDConcepts for a new era

COSMETICS | SPRAY TECHNOLOGY | MARKETING WWW.COSSMA.COM

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36 Naturally-derived blend for blemish-free skin

12 Not only British ingredients in London

30 Solutions for enhanced body care products

4 l COSSMA 4 I 2017 www.cossma.com

Contents COSSMA 4/2017

3 Editorial

10 MARKETS & COMPANIES

10 News

12 GO FUTURE: BODY CARE

12 In-Cosmetics: Not only for British beauties

18 Michelle Strutton, Mintel: International launches

28 Ana Castellano Gassó, Omya International: Microplastic-free scrub

30 For a flawless body

36 INGREDIENTS

36 Dr Alexander Thiemann, Manuela Salmina-Petersen,

Sabrina Gröne, Dr Jan Jänichen, Dr. Straetmans; Martina Mader,

Prof Dr Martina Kerscher, University Hamburg: For blemish-free skin

42 Formulations: Masks & more

43 Ingredients news

44 SPOTLIGHT: CARDBOARD & MORE

44 Concepts for a new era

48 BACKGROUND

48 Hans-Jörg Rösch, Wala: Advertising claims: How to prove efficacy

Visit us at in-cosmetics4th–6th April | Booth K40

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DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd.P.O. Box 2676, 4002 BaselSwitzerlandPhone: +41 61 815 7777Fax: +41 61 815 7860Email: info.pc-emea@dsm.com

www.dsm.com/personal-care

Dare to change yourhair routine with our TILAMAR®

polymer range

50 The pros and cons of plastic and metal aerosol cans

44 Unlimited options for cardboard solutions

48 How to substantiate cosmetic claims

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Contents

50 PACKAGING

50 DrNoraSchiemann,ConsultantforTechnopolisGroup: Plastic aerosols: Possibilities and limits

54 Packagingnews

55 StaroftheMonth:Making powders sprayable

56 PERSONALITIES & PROFILES

56 InterviewwithJan-PeterSander,BASF:Actively shaping markets

59 People

60 SERVICES

08 DownloadList

60 BEAUTYFORUMLEIPZIG–LetLeipzigentertainyou

61 EventsDiary

62 Suppliers’Guide

65 Advertisers’Index

66 MastheadPage

66 Preview

Front cover picture: BASF

COSSMA4/2017

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Microplastic- free scrub

Ingredients | Natural calcium carbonates are not only a suitable alternative to polyethylene beads in cosmetics and toiletries, but also a versatile option in emulsions and anhydrous formulations.

AUTHOR: Ana Castellano Gassó Marketing Coordinator, Consumer Goods

Life Science, Omya International Oftringen, Switzerland With the USA signing the

Microbeads-Free Waters Act in December 2015, a

“prohibition against sale or distribu-tion of rinse-off cosmetics contain-ing plastic microbeads” will begin in July 2017 for US markets. Replacing these petroleum derivatives, which harm the environment, with natu-ral ingredients is one of today’s key trends in cosmetics and toiletries. Natural calcium carbonate, a real all-rounder ingredient, is not only sustainable but is also organic and

“ Different particle structures and sizes suit different needs”

GO FUTURE: BODY CARE

28 l COSSMA 4 I 2017

environmentally-friendly and therefore suitable as a replace-ment.

Ingredients from calcium carbonateMillions of years ago, marine or-ganism skeletons and shells set-tled on ocean floors, forming rich deposits of calcium carbonate in carbonated sedimentary rocks. Over time, the Earth’s heat and pressure have converted these de-posits into naturally white calci-um carbonates. These resources, today found in marble, limestone and chalk, have now been devel-oped by the Swiss company Omya into a portfolio of ingredients that complies with stringent regulato-ry and quality standards, offering high chemical purity and con-trolled low microbiology. Omya has more than 130 years of expertise as a global producer of natural calcium carbonate. Very sophisticated processes are im-plemented to develop tailor-made solutions that address the specific needs of the cosmetics and toilet-ries industries. The company’s Omyacare range consists of dif-ferent natural calcium carbonate particles that provide multifunc-tional ingredients for innovative formulations and are active and sustainable alternatives to mi-croplastics. The natural minerals are sustain-ably produced under clean and controlled manufacturing condi-tions that have a reduced carbon footprint and generate minimum waste. Omyacare particles comply with recognised natural and organic cosmetic standards, including Cosmos and Ecocert.

A question of size and form: scrubbing formulationsSkin feel and exfoliating perfor-mance are related to the hardness and morphology of the cleansing particles within a formulation, and various particle structures from 140µm to 400µm satisfy dif-ferent specific demands.

Omyascrub S 20, for example, is designed to exfoliate and rejuve-nate the skin. The bright white particles are easy to incorporate and non-dusting. By altering the amount of ingredients used, the cleansing effect and the consist-ency of the formulation can be adjusted. After application, parti-cles are simply removed while rinsing the skin, leaving no resi-dues on it. And once washed off, the calcium carbonate simply re-turns to the natural environment from which it came.

No thermal treatment required before useBesides polyethylene (PE) mi-crobeads, Omyascrub products can also replace other plant-based abrasives such as apricot kernels, nut shells and bamboo, all of which require extensive thermal treatment before use. Another ad-vantage of calcium carbonate is that its millions of years’ worth of natural biological purification makes irradiation treatment – which is needed to process plant-based materials – unnecessary. Due to their low microbiological activity, the particles guarantee hygiene and enhance the shelf-life of end products. The sparkling brightness and opacity of the company’s miner-als means that they are ideal for use in both white and coloured cosmetics. They can even be used to enhance whitening effects, re-placing, for instance, titanium di-oxide partially or completely.When used in toothpaste, the size of the particles defines the grade of abrasion. Expressed as RDA (Radioactive Dentin Abrasion), toothpaste for-mulations can be developed to of-fer low (60 RDA, Omyacare HP 900-OG), medium (90 RDA, Omyacare S 70-KP) or high (110 RDA, Omyacare S 100-AV) abra-sion. The more sensitive the teeth, the gentler the cleaning should be. Additionally, different mixtures of particle types and sizes can be

used to adjust cleansing level, texture, viscosity as well as mouthfeel.As well as being used in face and body scrubs, microplastics are regularly incorporated into other cosmetics and toiletries for sever-al reasons – for instance, as bind-ers, film formers and fillers. But natural calcium carbonate can fulfil these functions too.

Further benefits for skin care productsOmyacare minerals can be used in a variety of skin care products, such as emulsions (o/w and w/o) and anhydrous (non-powder) for-mulations, to provide body and texture. They deliver smoothness and a pleasant skin feel when used in body lotions, body creams, or coloured cream formulas which are formulated for a smoother skin feel, reduced tackiness and faster drying times. Whatever the formulation, these minerals can be heated up to 85°C and homogenised without affecting their properties. As they can be used at high con-centrations while still maintain-ing the quality of the formulation, they are also cost-effective fillers.In essence, calcium carbonates are a suitable fit for the key trends of natural, organic and sustaina-ble products. As tailor-made ingredients that can be supplied in different parti-cle structures and sizes to suit dif-ferent needs, they are a good choice for a wide range of envi-ronmentally-friendly, respectful functional cosmetics and person-al care applications. □Additional information can be found on the Internet – see download panel

CALCIUM

carbonate Biologically purified for

millions of years

Particle structures from 140µm to 400µm satisfy

different specific demands

The cleansing effect and the

consistency are adjustable by the

quantity used

The minerals provide body and texture in emulsions and

anhydrous formulations

DOWNLOADS

Additional information at

www.cossma.com/qr00179

Your access codes for January/April:

User name: cossma4

Password: body

GO FUTURE: BODY CARE

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TACTILE PRINTVIROSPACK | As part of the company’s continuous investment in new decora-tion techniques and special finishes, Virospack is now proposing high relief finishes such as tactile print which pro-vides a 3D effect and enhances cus-tomisation. Braille Finish creates embossed points arranged in a matrix to assist the visually impaired.www.virospack.com

MOTION DESIGNSHISEIDO | The perfume Soul of Motion” created by Shiseido for Mazda won the iF Design’s gold award in the packaging design cat-egory. The perfume (which is not for sale) symbolizes Mazda’s design theme: Kodo Soul of Motion. The structural design captures the tension when a muscle primes for action. http://ifworlddesignguide.com/

www.shiseidogroup.com

DISSOLVABLE PACKETMONOSOL AND PACIFIC SHAVING COMPANY | This company is pre-senting their new Shaving Cream Minis. Made with water-soluble film, they dissolve in water for a convenient shaving experience. These single-use products deliver shaving cream in a packet that dissolves in the palm to provide a moisturising lather. www.pacificshaving.com

info@zellaerosol.dewww.zellaerosol.de

Zellaerosol GmbHWiesenstr. 13, 79669 Zell i. Wiesental, Germany

T + 49 (0)7625 - 92 53 - 0F + 49 (0)7625 - 92 53 14

A versatile strong partner

more than 50 years of expertise in making, confectioning, development, consulting of Liquids and Aerosols!

Large capacity based on 15 modern filling lines. Wide flexi-bility in finding solutions for even the most difficult filling challenges. Large storage tank (360.000 l)

Manufacturing licence on the basis of AMG (GMP) – separate manufacturing areas production of cosmetical and pharmaceutical products.

Making/confectioning of drugs, medical-, cosmetic-, house-hold- and techn.- products according to valid ATEX-directives.

Planning, realisation and documentation of development work processed on commission order for exclusive customers.

Advice / Cooperation for product data produced as per cosmetic regulation, technical files and pharmaceutical registrations.

Reliable meeting of requirements with dedicated quality assu-rance, which guarantees us satisfied, long-term customers. Certified by ISO 9001, ISO 13485 and AC

News OF THE Month

Appealing to the sense of touch

The design captures the tension when a muscle primes for action

The single-use pack dissolves with water

PACKAGING NEWS

54 l COSSMA 4 I 2017 www.cossma.com

News

Fits comfortably in the hand

MIXREBHAN | The SPA series features a new mix of materi-al – an HDPE bottle combined with a cap made of Glass Polymer. www.rebhan.com

SECURITYSARALON | Saral-Security, a device for brand protection, in-cludes a printed an-tenna or battery as well as printed cir-cuit, sensor and elec-trochromic display. This technology al-lows the authentica-tion of the package.www.saralon.com

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a fine mist sprayer for controlled application

• Powder Spray Bottle with a capac-ity of 35 ml

• the Powder Spray Bottle with a Locking Nozzle with a capacity of 30 or 180 ml features an extended nozzle sprayer for a broader appli-cation and locks to ensure that product does not spill or escape the bottle during travel or when not in use

• Powder Spray Bottle with a Ridged Neck, capacity: 80 or 120 ml Q

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to accomplish advanced body paint-ing techniques. Due to the popularity of the concept, the company now offers a total of six different versions. The four latest versions were developed specifically for packaging powder formulations which can include dry shampoo, root touch-up powders, fragrance powders, deodorant and also glitter formulations.These are the products included in the range: • the Fine Mist Powder Spray Bottle

with a capacity of 14 ml provides

Qosmedix offers a refilla-ble spray bottle featuring a fine mist sprayer for apply-

ing powder and glitter formulations. The interior mechanism helps gather the product towards the inner tube, allowing for maximum product dis-persion. The dispenser is a suita-ble alternative to traditional aerosol packaging and can be decorated to reflect the brand’s image. It is particularly suitable for packag-ing body powders. It can also be used for root touch-up powder. An-other option is to use these packages

Making powder sprayableDispensers | New ways of applying products to change the beauty rou-tine are always an invaluable asset. Therefore, the non-aerosol concept of making powders sprayable qualifies as our Star of the Month.

StarOF THE

Month

PACKAGING

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This year’s 7th edition of BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG will be the most versatile and big-

gest of its kind ever. Visitors can find out about the latest novelties from approximately 320 exhibitors cover-ing all areas of professional beauty as

Let entertain you Events | Visit BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG – a must-see event for beauty professionals this April 22–23.

well as enjoy the versatile programme of further education, two congresses, championships and shows.

Entertainment and science BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG offers a var-ied entertainment programme with industry celebrities. Highlights in-clude the hair show Elementary pre-sented by D. Machts Group from Ber-lin, Stil-Sicher’s styling show Amazing effects with little tricks and Patrick Maldinger’s make-up show The modern way of make-up. Don’t miss the opportunity of taking your selfie after the Gestalterei’s show – Gothic meets fashion and Hollywood – at the BEAUTY FORUM

stand. This year, the motto of the BEAUTY FORUM Lounge is One Col-our. Here the Gestalterei’s profes-sionals will offer make-up free of charge. The 3rd Anti-Ageing Congress on Sat-urday, April 22 will focus on topics such as anti-ageing ingredients, lipo-suction, micro-needling, fillers and anti-ageing treatments for hands. The 8th Podology Congress, focusing on diabetic foot syndrome, is on Sunday, April 23. A discount for all international trade show visi-tors is available at www.beauty-fairs.de/ticketshopMore information on the show is availa-ble atwww.beauty-fairs.de/leipzig

SERVICES

good reasons for reading COSSMA! Discover today your competitors‘ plans for tomorrow!

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Order today, at www.cossma.com/subscription • or via the hotline: +49 (0)7243 7278-162

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