Introduction - King of Covers · HE T KING OF COVERS, INC. (860) 379-2427 Catalog of Parts

THE KING OF COVERS, INC. (860) 379-2427

Table of Contents

Introduction 1

Close-Up Parts Diagram-Diagram 1 2

Full Truck Parts Diagram-Diagram 2 3

Figure Number/Part Number 4

Parts Listing with Pictures 5-8

Adjusting The Flow Control Valve 9

Electric Remote Pump Parts Diagram and List 10-11

Manual Pump Parts Diagram and List 12-13

Pump Repair and Maintenance 14-15

Cylinder Diagrams and Repair 16-17

Roller Tube Assembly and Repair 18-19

Changing The Tarp-while on the truck 20-21

Changing The Tarp-with roller tube off truck 21

Troubleshooting 22-23

© Copyright 2014 by The King of Covers, Inc.

154 Torrington Road, Winsted, Connecticut.

All rights reserved. No part of this material may be reproduced in any form

without the prior written permission of the copyright holder.

Congratulations! You are now the owner of a tried and true, Richard’s® Hydraulic

Covering System. Our systems have been covering loads since 1979, and we be-

lieve you won’t find a more durable system or better customer service anywhere.

We hope you are highly satisfied with your cover’s operation and enjoy many years

of hassle-free service. If you ever have questions or concerns, please call us; we

will be happy to assist you.

The system is controlled from the driver’s seat by a single switch. For optimum

durability, the cover should be “locked down” whenever the truck is in motion.

After the roller assembly reaches the end of its travel, either front or back, engage

the pump for an additional second to keep it locked down. When your system is

locked down, you should be able to see a slight downward bow in the arms. This

keeps the cover tight against the truck, preventing the tarp from unrolling, and re-

ducing wear from vibration as you travel.

The system benefits from regular inspection. The grease fittings located on each

flange casting (diagram 1, parts 39 and 57),should receive two shots of grease each

month. The hydraulic system is self-contained and shouldn’t need any additional

fluid unless you have done repair work or damaged the system. Should you need to

add fluid, we use Dexron II transmission fluid in our system. The oil level should

be about one inch below the fill hole when the roller assembly is at the front.

Never add fluid with the roller assembly at the back. The right and left sides of the

roller assembly should land on the cab shield at the same time. If they are more

than six inches apart in landing, see adjustment instructions for the flow control

valve. If your pump is operated by a manual valve body, occasionally check the

contact fingers and torsion spring on your pump handle assembly (page 12, parts 8

& 12) and replace them if they appear worn. If they fail, your pump may run con-

tinuously, and you risk burning out your motor (see troubleshooting on pages 22-

23). For pumps operated by a remote electric switch, no maintenance is necessary.

This gives you an overview of the proper use, and maintenance of your cover. For

more details on repair work, see the sections further on in this manual or bring your

truck in for servicing.

Thank you for choosing our cover. We’re confident you’ll be pleased!

Introduction


1


2

As viewed from passenger side

Close-Up Parts Diagram

Diagram 1

*se

e up

date

UPD

ATE

Mos

t cy

linde

rs in

stal

led

afte

r 01

/08

have

a s

teel

clev

is w

elde

d on

the

end

of

the

ram

ins

tead

of

a ca

st

alum

inum

cle

vis.

*

*


Full Truck Part Diagram

Diagram 2

8

11

12

9

3

7

4

3

5 6

1 2 10

3

Diagram Numbers/Part Numbers


Diagram 1

Diagram 2

Item # Part # Description 44, 45 Bolt, Washer

1 101/100 Driver’s Base/ Passenger’s Base 46 By Serial # Canvas Tarp

702 2 Pc. Roll Pin Set (old ) 47-52 Bolt, Washer, Lock Washer

705 Grade 8 Clevis Pin (new) 53 204 Roller Shaft

4 102 Lower Arm Casting 54 108 Spring Cone Casting

5 200 Lower Arm Tube 55 Screw

6, 7 402 Lower Arm Bolt & Lock Nut 56 205 Extra Heavy Spring

8 104 Mid Arm Casting 57 107 Driver Flange Casting

9, 11 404 Mid Arm Bolt & Lock Nut 58, 59 Bolt, Washer

12 405 Set Screw 60, 61 Washer, Cotter Pin

13 202 Upper Arm Tube

14, 16 406 Grade 8 Upper Arm Bolt

17 Set Screw Item # Part # Description

18 201 Cylinder 1 100/101 Passenger’s Base/Driver’s Base

19-21 700 Sm. Clevis , Washer, Cotter Pin 2 102 Lower Arm Casting

22 103 Cylinder Casting 3 111-1/111-2 Arch Castings - Thin/Thick

23-28 701 Lg. Clevis Pin, Washer, Cotter Pin 4 210 Rubber Back Stop Pad

29 105 Upper Arm Casting 5 112-1/112-2 Wedge Casting - Thin/Thick

30-35 403 Upper Arm Bolt 6 113 Backstop Casting

36, 37 Washer, Cotter Pin 7 209 Arch

38 203 Thrust Bearing 8 115 Roller Rest Casting

39 106 Passenger Flange Casting 9 PA Pivot Angle

40, 41 Bolt, Washer 10 110 Base Casting Spacer (not on all)

42 206 Roller Tube 11 211 Roller Rest Pad

43 109 Roller Ring Casting 12 PS Pivot Strap

3

Diagram 2

4

Catalog of Parts


EZ 100-1 Small Base Casting-Passenger EZ 101-1 Small Base Casting-Driver EZ 100-2 Large Base Casting-Passenger EZ 101-2 Large Base Casting-Driver

Diagram 1 Item 1

Diagram 2 Item 1

EZ 102 Lower Arm Casting

Diagram 1 Item 4

Diagram 2 Item 2

EZ 104 Mid Arm Casting

Diagram 1 Item 8

Diagram 2 Not Identified

EZ 105 Upper Arm Casting

Diagram 1 Item 29


Diagram 1 Item 22


EZ 103 Cylinder Casting Replaced by steel clevis on newer systems

5


Catalog of Parts

EZ 107-1 Flange Casting Small-Driver’s EZ 106-1 Flange Casting Small-Passenger’s EZ 107-2 Flange Casting Large-Driver’s EZ 106-2 Flange Casting Large-Passenger’s

Diagram 1 Items 57 & 38,39


EZ 108 Spring Casting

Diagram 1 Item 54


EZ 109 Roller Ring Casting

Diagram 1 Item 43


EZ 109-1 Pump Mounting Casting **Not needed in every application**



Diagram 1 Not Shown

Diagram 2 Part 10

EZ 110-1 Base Casting Spacer Small (3 hole) EZ 110-2 Base Casting Spacer Large (4 hole) **Not needed in every application**

6


Catalog of Parts

Diagram 1 Not Shown

Diagram 2 Not Shown

F20SK Flow Control Valve

EZ 111-1 Arch Casting-Thin EZ 111-2 Arch Casting-Thick

Diagram 1 Not Shown

Diagram 2 Item 3

EZ 115-1 Roller Rest-no rib EZ 115-2 Roller Rest-with rib EZ 115-3 Roller Rest-flat **Casting comes with pad attached. For rubber pad alone (figure 2 Part 13) item # EZ 211-1**

Diagram 1 Not Shown

Diagram 2 Item 8

EZ 112-1 Wedge Casting-Thin 1” EZ 112-2 Wedge Casting-Thick 1½”

Diagram 2 Item 5

Diagram 1 Not Shown

EZ 113 Back Stop Small-no rib EZ 113-2 Back Stop Large-with rib EZ 113-1 Back Stop Small-with rib **Casting comes with pad attached. For rub-ber pad alone (figure 2 Part 4) item # EZ 210 small or EZ 210-1 large**

Diagram 2 Item 6

Diagram 1 Not Shown

7

Catalog of Parts

EZ 205 Spring (comes 5’, 6’, 7’, or 7’ XH) Comes with EZ 108

Diagram 2 Not Shown

Diagram 1 Item 56


EZ 204 Roller Shaft Roller Shaft End View

Diagram 1 Item 53

EZ 201 Cylinder


Diagram 1 Item 18

PS+ Pivot Strap with angle **Pivot Strap(12) is item #PS and angle(9) is item #PA. (Assembled as shown is PSA)**

Diagram 1 Not Shown

Diagram 2 Item 9,12

EZ 209 Arch

Diagram 1 Not Shown

Diagram 2 Item 7


8


Adjusting the Flow Control Valve

Flow Control Valve

Always on the bottom line*

1. The flow control valve may need adjustment if the arms are not traveling parallel,

the roller tube assembly does not land squarely on the cabshield, a new tarp has

been installed, or a cylinder has been replaced. After changing the tarp or replac-

ing a cylinder, operate the system one complete cycle (front to back to front) be-

fore attempting to adjust the system, as it is not always necessary to change the

valve setting.

2. Run the cover all the way to the back and lock it down on the backstop pads (so

that the arm bows slightly). Have someone watch from the front of the truck as

you bring the cover forward to make sure that the arms do not get more than 12”

out of parallel. If they do, stop immediately, run the cover to the back again, and

adjust the valve as instructed below. If you bring the cover all the way down with

the arms too far out of parallel, you risk damaging other parts of your cover.

3. If adjustment is needed, and your truck has two flow control valves (one for each

side), open them both up all the way. After determining which side is coming in

ahead by following step #2 above, close the valve for the side coming in ahead a

half turn and repeat step #2. Continue adjusting that valve as necessary until

arms travel in parallel and roller assembly lands squarely on the cabshield. For

trucks with one flow control valve, adjust valve in or out to bring into alignment

as described above.

(Some systems are more sensitive than others and may require smaller

adjustments; an eighth to quarter turn may be sufficient. Closing the

valve slows that side and opening it speeds it up. *Note: on some trailers

the flow control valve is connected to the gear driven flow divider valve.)

Figure 1

9


10

Electric Remote Pump Parts Breakdown

ADJUSTABLE RELIEF

VALVE (SEE NOTE

ON PAGE 15)

NEW COILS HAVE TWO YELLOW

WIRES. ONE FROM EACH GOES

TO RED/GREEN WIRES ON PART

#23 AS INDICATED. REMAINING

WIRE GOES TO GROUND ON

SOLENOID MOUNTING BRACKET.


11

ITEM NO QTY PART NO DESCRIPTION

1 1 12789 BASE ASSY, M3534, MOD 3" MTR/BRKT

2 1 08111-D MOTOR, DC, 12V, 4.5", 1 TERM

3 1 12171-250 P ASSY, QM MDLR, DC, BRGS BLD RSV

4 4 07818 SCREW. S.H. CAP, 1/4-20 X 3

5 1 01209 TUBE, SUCTION, 90 DGR, 3/8 NPT

6 1 01134 FILTER, SCREEN M-SERIES SUCT.

7 1 13058 TUBE, RETURN, 90 DEG, 1/8NPT, M301

8 1 06910 RESV, 5X5X6, H/MT, M300, 2 3/4 CL

9 6 07703 SCREW, SELF-TAPPING, 10-24 3/8

10 2 00679-D CARTRIDGE, 3W/2P, #8, 3000PSI

11 1 07345-D VALVE, CHCK, CART, SIZE 8, DBL PILT

12 1 07781 WASHER, LOCK, 5/16

13 1 07773 SCREW, H.H. CAP, 5/16-18 X 1/2

14 1 01143 PLUG, RESEV, BREATHER-FILLER

15 1 01108 PLUG, SQUARE HEAD 1/4 NPT

16 1 02238 BRACKET, PUMP MT, M-SERIES

17 2 01988 WASHER, FLAT, 5/16", (ZINC PLATE)

18 2 07859 SCREW, HEX WASH HD, 5/16-18X5/8

19 1 07518 SWITCH, SOL, ACT MTR STRT, 12V

20 1 04776 STRAP, MTR-TOWER SOL CONNECTING

21 2 07587 SCREW, HEX, WSHR, SERRATED HD

22 1 03394 SWITCH, TOGGLE, W/JUMPER

23 1 13156DH112-018 CORD, HRNSS, 4 WIR, TGL SW, M3551

Electric Remote Pump Parts Item List

RELIEF VALVE ADJUSTMENT INSTRUCTIONS:

A. LOOSEN JAM NUT

B. ADJUST PRESSURE

1. TURN SCREW CLOCKWISE TO INCREASE PRESSURE

2. TURN SCREW COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO DECREASE PRESSURE

NOTE: OUTLET PORT (PRESSURE) FLOW MUST BE BLOCKED

TO MAKE RELIEF VALVE OPERATE WHILE ADJUSTING

C. TIGHTEN JAM NUT


12

Manual Pump Parts Breakdown

SOLENOID POSTS MUST BE MAINTAINED INSULATED

Electric Remote Pump Bracket

Regular Pumps use EZ 109-1


13

Manual Pump Parts Item List

1. Remove U-shaped return tube (figures 15 and 16-pg. 15). If you have

an old style pump you will need to rotate the valve assembly using a

3/4” wrench. Twist it at the point marked with the arrow (figure 2) to

allow room for removal of the inner return tube. If you have a new

pump, you will be able to remove the inner return tube without rotat-

ing the valve assembly.

2. Remove the inner return tube. (figure 3)

3. Remove the two bolts indicated by arrows in

figure 4 from the base bracket. Loosen, but do

not completely remove the two bolts on the

back of the pump. (figure 5) Remove pump

bracket and set aside. Remove all six screws

around the tank. (figure 6)

4. Plug the cap opening with an air breather plug

and the return tube opening with a cap. (figure

7) Blow the tank off the pump by hooking

compressed air to the breather plug. (Put the

pump up against an immovable object before

doing this.)

5. The dirty pump screen is illustrated in figure 8.

Unscrew it and clean the screen and pump tank

in a degreasing solvent.

6. Replace the pump screen, screwing it so it faces

down.

7. Line up the screw holes in the tank with the holes in motor assembly.

(figure 9) Replace all 6 screws.

8. Re-bolt the two bolts on the back of the pump and the two on the bottom of

the pump to the mounting bracket. Reinstall return tube.


Pump Screen Cleaning

Figure 2

Figure 3 Figure 4

Figure 5

Figure 6

Figure 7 Figure 8 Figure 9

14

The pictures to the left illustrate how to tell whether you

have an old or new style pump and thus whether you can

replace the motor assembly or whether you must replace the

entire pump. The old style pumps ‘U’ shaped return tube

has legs of equal length, while one leg of the return tube on

the new style pumps is approx 3/4” longer than the other.

1. If the torsion spring in your pump handle assembly

breaks, it must be changed or your pump will run

continuously quickly burning out the motor.

2. Before you begin disassembly, use a chisel to nick

the top of the handle assembly or draw a line with

a permanent marker to indicate where to line it up

later when re-assembling. (see figure 10) Using an

Allen wrench (see figure 11), loosen the screw at

the back of the handle assembly and remove. (You

may have to tap on the top of the handle assembly

to be able to turn the Allen wrench.)

3. Replace torsion spring, aligning lower leg with

post (see figure 12). Then using needle-nose pli-

ers, bring the top leg around to the other side of the

pin. (figure 13)

4. Replace the handle assembly, placing

the post on the handle assembly be-

tween the two legs of the torsion

spring. (see figure 14)

5. Rotate to realign the mark you made

earlier and re-tighten the screw with

the Allen wrench.

Changing Pump Torsion Spring

Figure 10 Figure 11

Figure 13

Figure 12

post

Figure 14

Figure 16

New Style Pumps

Have about 3/4” clearance

Figure 15

Old Style Pumps

Have no clearance

Contact Springs

Nub Nut


15

A-Style Cylinder-Figure A

B-Style PolyPak Cylinder-Figure B

5

4 2

3

7 10

8

9

6 8


Cylinder Diagrams

16

5

4 2

3

10

7 9

8 6

Cylinder Diagrams & Repair

1. Release the hydraulic pressure in the system by covering the nub-nut (page 15 figure 14) on the control

switch with cardboard or plastic so that the contact springs (page 15 figure 10) cannot connect. Move the

handle to each side for a second. Then move to one side for 8-10 seconds and then the other side for 8-10

seconds. Remove the cylinder from the truck.

2. Remove gland nut (part 4 in all cylinder diagrams). (For big bore cylinders used on trailers and other large

trucks [2” dia.] remove the snap ring after the gland nut.) Pull ram out of cylinder.

3. Take nut off the end of the ram (part 6 in all cylinder diagrams). Remove cups, wipers, and/or O-rings de-

pending on your cylinder style and replace all worn parts. Rub a little clean grease on the cups or rings to

help them slide back inside the cylinder without ripping.

4. Reassemble and reinstall on the truck. Now see pg. 14 for instructions on cleaning the pump screen.

5. Tighten gland nut, enough so that there is drag on the ram when you try to pull it out, but tight enough that

it doesn’t leak.

C-Style PolyPak Cylinder-Figure C

Figure A Item # Figure B Desc. Figure C Desc. Desc. Item # Item #

2 25312 2 O-Ring 2 O-Ring Spreader 18326 18326

3 25313 3 Poly-Pak 3 Poly-Pak V– Packing 21126 21126

4 25314 4 Gland Nut 4 Gland Nut Gland Nut 13589 13589

5 25315 5 Wiper 5 Wiper Wiper 12125 12125

6 25316 6 Piston Nut 6 Piston Nut Piston Nut 23064 23064

7 25317 7 Spacer 7 PSP Seal Cup Spacer 19175 21174

8 25318 8 PolyPak (2) 8 Wear Ring Cup (2) 21138 30176

9 25319 9 Piston 9 Piston Piston 22177 22185

10 25320 10 O-Ring 10 O-Ring O-Ring 18114 18114

12 - 14 25342 2” Big Bore


17

Roller Tube Assembly and Repair

REMOVING THE ROLLER TUBE ASSEMBLY FROM THE TRUCK NEVER EXTEND THE COVER TO THE BACK OF THE TRUCK WHEN DISASSEMBLING AS THIS WINDS THE SPRING TIGHTER. ASSEMBLY AND DISASSEMBLY OF THE ROLLER ASSEMBLY MUST BE MADE FROM THE FRONT ONLY.

Begin by putting some pressure in the system to lift the roller assembly 6-10” off the cab. This procedure should

be accomplished with one person on each side of the truck; however, if you are repairing the roller tube assem-

bly by yourself, tie the arms together to prevent it from falling out of the upper arm castings. (figure 20 page 20)

Remove top nut and bolt from the upper arm casting(29) on one side, then place a 3/4” offset box end wrench

over the end of the roller shaft (53) on the other side and remove the bolt (figure 25 page 21).

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD GRIP ON THE WRENCH TO PREVENT THE SPRING TENSION ON THE ROLLER SHAFT FROM CAUSING THE WRENCH TO SPIN AROUND 6 OR 7 TIMES CAUSING SERIOUS IN-

JURY. MAINTAIN A FIRM GRIP ON THE WRENCH AND UNWIND SLOWLY, KEEPING YOUR BODY AWAY FROM THE ROTATION OF THE WRENCH.

If changing the canvas at the same time, remove 8 bolts holding the canvas to the pivot straps. (Note: the outside

bolts have nuts on the back, remove the nuts first) Otherwise, leave the front of the tarp attached to pivot straps,

unroll the tarp from the roller tube, unbolt from the roller tube, and leave the tarp in truck bed.

Carefully slide each upper arm casting off the roller tube shaft, and lower the arm

gently until it stops. Remove roller tube assembly from cab shield. If changing

tarp, unroll, and unbolt old tarp from roller tube.

DISASSEMBLY Remove cotter pin and washer from driver’s side of roller shaft (53). (figure 17)

Stand on end with shaft on driver’s side against the ground to prevent internal

spring tension from causing shaft to extend unexpectedly. Remove cotter pin and

washer from passenger’s side of roller shaft. Slowly move roller assembly toward

passenger’s side to release spring tension.

FOLLOW APPLICABLE INSTRUCTIONS ON NEXT PAGE TO REPAIR THE TUBE, SPRING, OR SHAFT, THEN CON-

TINUE BELOW.

REASSEMBLY Apply pressure to driver’s side of shaft until washer is against flange and shaft extends beyond end of roller

tube. Replace passenger’s flange (39) and bolt to roller tube (42). Do not replace 3/8” bolt with anything

over 1 ½” in length. Replace washer and cotter pin on passenger’s side. Follow instructions on page 21 for re-

installing the tarp off the truck to complete repair.

Figure 17


(All part numbers in parentheses refer to Diagram 1 on Page 2)

18

Roller Tube Assembly and Repair

REPLACING ROLLER TUBE (42) Remove three bolts from the passenger side flange casting (39) and pull flange casting from tube. Remove three

bolts from the driver side flange casting (57) and slide broken roller tube (42) off shaft. If reusing roller rings

(43) remove from broken tube and install on new tube. Slide new tube onto shaft and reattach driver’s flange

casting with three bolts. Do not replace 3/8” bolt with anything over 1 ½” in length.

REPLACING SPRING (56) Remove three bolts from passenger’s (39) flange casting and pull flange casting from tube. Remove three bolts

from driver’s (57) flange casting and slide roller tube (42) off shaft. Loosen two set screws (55) and slide spring

and driver’s flange (57) from shaft (53). Place driver’s flange in a vice and, using a spanner wrench, remove

broken spring from flange. Note: this is a left handed thread. Screw new spring on driver’s flange using a pipe

wrench. Slide shaft inside of spring. If marks from set screws are visible, slide shaft to the same position and

retighten screws. If not, replace washer and cotter pin on driver’s end of shaft. Using measurement from Chart

1, move driver’s flange required distance from washer (figure 19). Tighten set screws. Slide roller tube over

spring and shaft and attach using three bolts to driver’s flange. Do not replace 3/8” bolt with anything over 1 ½”

in length.

REPLACING/REPAIRING SHAFT (53) Remove three bolts from passenger’s (39) flange casting and pull flange casting from tube. Remove three bolts

from driver’s (57) flange casting and slide roller tube (42) off shaft. Loosen two set screws (55) and slide spring

and driver’s flange (57) from bent/broken shaft (53). Most bent shafts can be straightened without heat using a

manual press. After either straightening your bent shaft or purchasing a new one, slide shaft inside spring. If

reusing straightened shaft and marks from set screws on spring are visible, slide shaft to the same position and

retighten screws. If not, replace washer and cotter pin on driver’s end of shaft. Using measurement from Chart

1, move driver’s flange required distance from washer (figure 19). Tighten set screws (55). Slide roller tube

over spring and shaft and attach using three bolts to driver’s flange. Do not replace 3/8” bolt with anything over

1 ½” in length.

Spring Length Measurement X

5’ 6”

6’ 7”

7’ 8”

Chart 1

X”

Figure 18

For cotter pin

For upper arm bolt

Figure 19


19

NEVER EXTEND THE COVER TO THE BACK OF THE TRUCK WHEN DISASSEMBLING AS THIS WINDS THE SPRING TIGHTER. ASSEMBLY AND DISASSEMBLY OF THE ROLLER ASSEMBLY MUST BE MADE FROM THE FRONT ONLY.

Begin by putting some pressure in the system to lift the

roller assembly 6-10” off the cab. If you are changing the

tarp by yourself, tie the arms together to prevent the roller

tube assembly from falling out of the upper arm castings.

(figure 20) Remove top nut and bolt from the upper arm

casting on one side, then place a 3/4” offset box end wrench

over the end of the roller shaft on the other side and remove

the bolt.

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD GRIP ON THE WRENCH TO PREVENT THE SPRING TENSION ON

THE ROLLER SHAFT FROM CAUSING THE WRENCH TO SPIN AROUND 6 OR 7 TIMES CAUSING SERIOUS INJURY. MAINTAIN A FIRM GRIP ON THE WRENCH AND UNWIND SLOWLY, KEEPING YOUR BODY AWAY FROM THE ROTA-

TION OF THE WRENCH.

Remove 8 bolts holding the old tarp to the pivot straps. (Note: the

outside bolts have nuts on the back, remove the nuts first) Unroll the

tarp and unbolt from the roller tube.

New tarp: Lay the tarp in the bed with the white

tag facing up in the back on the driver’s side.

(figure 21) (except rolloffs—place with tag facing

down) Place the back of the tarp over the top of

the roller tube, hem side up. (figures 22, 23) Place

the flat washer and then the lock washer on top of

the grommet before bolting. (figure 24) Use a zip-

tie for the center grommet.

Using the 3/4” offset box end wrench, roll the tarp around the tube, turning towards the front of the truck. (In the

direction of the arrows on the flange casting - figure 25, page 23)

Changing the Tarp

Figure 20

Tag facing up in back driver’s side corner

Figure 21

Figure 22 Figure 23

Figure 24

Without removing the roller tube from the truck

Truck Body Length Number of Turns

15’ and under 6 1/2

16-17’ 7 1/2

18-19’ 7

20’ and Trailers 7 1/2

Roll-Off Trucks 8

Roll-Off HD Spring 3

Chart 2


20

With the pivot strap behind the tarp (figure 26), bolt the front of the tarp to the

pivot straps with a flat washer and lock washer as shown in Figure 24 page 20.

(Note: the outside bolts have nuts on the back.)

Turning the flange by hand, remove all slack from tarp. Using the 3/4” offset

box end wrench, tension the spring using the appropriate number of turns from

Chart 2. Make sure you rotate the wrench in the direction indicated by the ar-

row on the flange casting.

MAINTAIN A GOOD GRIP ON THE WRENCH TO PREVENT THE SPRING TENSION ON THE ROLLER SHAFT FROM CAUSING THE WRENCH TO

SPIN AROUND 6 OR 7 TIMES CAUSING SERIOUS INJURY. MAINTAIN A FIRM GRIP ON THE WRENCH AND WIND SLOWLY, KEEPING YOUR BODY AWAY FROM THE ROTATION OF THE WRENCH.

After achieving the proper tension, while still holding the wrench firmly, insert

the bolts through the upper arm casting and roller shaft. Remove wrench and

install and tighten the nuts on the bolts. Run the cover out and in once to make

sure the roller tube lands squarely on the cab shield. If it does not, see page 11

on adjusting your flow control valve.

Changing the Tarp-off the Truck

Lay the roller tube as illustrated in figures 27 and 28 with the nice side of the tarp face-up. Wrap it under the

roller tube and over the top. Secure the center grommet with a zip tie and bolt the other four grommets down

with washers and lock washers (see figure 24, page 20).

Have two people grasp the front corners of

the tarp and pull it toward them slowly. The

roller tube will roll up the tarp as it rolls to-

ward them. (see figure 29) Have each person

place their foot on the flange gear to keep the

roller tube from unrolling and pull the tarp

tight around the tube. Place the assembly on

the truck (make sure driver’s flange is on

driver’s side) with

the shaft through the

center of the upper

arm castings. (See

top of page for re-

mainder of instruc-

tions.)

Changing the Tarp

Figure 25

Figure 26

FRONT

BACK

PA

SS

EN

GE

R

DR

IVE

R

Figure 28

Figure 27 Figure 29 (this canvas has flaps)


21

Troubleshooting

Pumps

Broken contact spring

A broken contact spring will prevent the pump from operating. To replace a contact spring, remove

screw and replace broken part with a new one making sure the coil spring faces the outside of the

pump.

Bad ground

Most problems with pumps are ground related problems. Using a 12 volt multi-meter, clip the posi-

tive on the multi-meter to the battery positive at the solenoid. Clip the ground of the multi-meter to

a good ground on the pump (such as the aluminum block in the center of the pump). Operate the

pump; if the multi-meter drops below 12V, you have a bad ground. Using battery cable, connect

the battery ground to the hold down bolt on the pump under the floor of the cab.

Bad solenoid

Using a 12 volt multi-meter, clip the positive on the multi-meter to the copper strap on the back

side of the solenoid that goes to the motor. Operate pump; you should get 12V. If you do not, you

have a bad solenoid.

Bad motor

If you have tried all of the above and you get 12V, but the pump still doesn’t work, you have a bad

motor.

Cover moves slowly, only in one direction, or not at all

Worn cylinder packings

Raise the roller assembly about one foot off the cab shield. If it settles back down on its own, the

cylinder packings are likely failing and need to be replaced. Refer to page 17 for instructions on

repacking a cylinder.

A slow leak somewhere in the system would have a similar result but leaking oil should be seen if a

leak exists. If no oil is visible, see leaking crossover lines below as oil may be trapped inside body

rails.

Broken roller tube, bent roller shaft or improper spring tension

Failure of the roller tube to work smoothly usually indicates a broken roller tube, bent roller shaft

or improper spring tension as a result of slipping or breaking. If the arms are moving properly but

the canvas will not roll up when moving from the back to the front, the spring inside the roller as-

sembly has most likely lost its pre-set tension as a result of breaking, being put on backwards or

slipping off its internal mountings. Refer to pages 18-19 for instructions on repairing the roller as-

sembly.


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Troubleshooting


Badly worn tarp or excessive build up of asphalt on tarp

Replace canvas. Refer to pages 20-21 for replacing the tarp.

Leaking crossover line

If the body is heated and the cover has been on the truck for several years the crossover lines may

have a hole in them. Replace both crossover lines

Plugged pump screen

If the pump makes a high pitched whining sound, the screen in the tank is most likely plugged and

needs to be cleaned. Refer to page 14 for instructions on cleaning the pump screen.

Flange Casting caught

Under rare circumstances, the teeth on the flange casting may get stuck either in the backstop pad

or on the bolt heads that hold down the backstop pad .

Tarp Rolls Up Unevenly

Worn tarp

The roller assembly is designed to land evenly on the cab shield and should not be allowed to be

more than six to eight inches out of alignment. A worn tarp, especially with one or more tears on an

edge, is the primary cause of trouble. If the tarp is severely worn, no amount of adjusting will cor-

rect an uneven operation; the tarp will need to be replaced. Refer to pages 20-21 for replacing the

tarp.

Heavy build up of asphalt on tarp

Refer to pages 20-21 for replacing the tarp.

Broken roller tube

Examine roller tube, especially under the roller rings and make sure it isn’t broken. Refer to pages

18-19 for repairing the roller assembly.

Bent arms

Either straighten or replace bent arms.

Tarp not centered on roller assembly

Operating in high wind can push the tarp to one side of the roller assembly. If the tarp is not cen-

tered on the roller assembly when it is at the back of the truck, manually unroll the tarp the rest of

the way, re-center it on the tube and then allow it to re-roll on the tube.

Tarp may have stretched

If the tarp is in good shape and nothing is bent or broken, the tarp may have stretched. This can be

fixed by adjusting the knob on the flow control valve. Turning the valve stem in will slow the

driver’s side arm down as it moves to the front. If the cylinder is style A (pg. 16) with a gland nut at

the top end, tightening the nut a quarter to a half turn will slow that side down.

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Introduction - King of Covers · HE T KING OF COVERS, INC. (860) 379-2427 Catalog of Parts

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Transcript of Introduction - King of Covers · HE T KING OF COVERS, INC. (860) 379-2427 Catalog of Parts