INTERNSHIP_REPORT-Arvind_Ltd-Arushi_Srivastava-Vaishali_Rai_NIFT_Delhi.pdf

Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute Of Fashion Technology

New Delhi

ARVIND LIMITED | DENIM DIVISION

ARUSHI SRIVASTAVA

VAISHALI RAI

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

REPORT

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Page 2

CERTIFICATE

This is to certify that Arushi Srivastava and Vaishali Rai of BFT-V, National

Institute Of Fashion Technology, New Delhi did their internships at

Arvind Limited | Denim Division, Naroda, Ahemdabad from

May 26, 2013 to June 15, 2013 towards the partial fulfillment of the program

B.F.Tech (Apparel Production).

This project report has been created and compiled by them under the guidance of

Ms. Girija Jha and is their authentic work.

Arushi Srivastava

Vaishali Rai

Ms. Girija Jha

Mentor

Certificate of Authenticity


Page 3

At the outset, we wish to express our gratitude to everybody who has

assisted in the formulation of this report. There are many to whom

expression of gratitude is inevitable, but there some special people who

have to be given prominence, without whom we would not have reached

the conclusion of this project so quickly and so efficiently.

We are grateful to Dr. Senthil Kumar for guiding us throughout the internship.

We would like to thank our Course Coordinator and mentor Ms. Girija Jha and

Mr. N.A. Khan, who has always added to our buoyancy with her tremendous

efforts and for her constant support.

At Arvind Limited, we would like to thank the HR manager, Ms. Richa Ahuja; our

industry mentor, Mr. Diwaker Tiwari, Chief Manager- Manufacturing and Mr.

Mahesh Ramakrishnan, head of the Agribusiness Department. Also, we would like

to express a special gratitude to the company for being excellent hosts.

We take this opportunity to express our affection towards our parents

for their consistent faith and support.

Arushi Srivastava

Vaishali Rai

Acknowledgement


Page 4

1. About the Company

1.1. Introduction 07

1.2. Journey 09

1.3. Companys Vision 11

1.4. Divions

1.4.1. Denim 12

1.4.2. Woven Fabrics 13

1.4.3. Knits 16

1.4.4. Garment Export 17

1.4.5. Advanced Materials 18

1.4.6. Arvind Brands 19

1.4.7. Mega Mart Reta 20

1.4.8. The Arvind Store 21

1.5. Executive Leaders 22

1.6. Board of Directors 24

1.7. Denim Division 28

1.8. International buyers 30

1.9. Own Brands 31

2. Production Process

2.1. Process Flow Chart 32

2.2. Spinning

2.2.1. Process Flow 33

2.2.2. Blow Room 34

2.2.3. Carding 38

Contents


Page 5

2.2.4. Drawing 40

2.2.5. Spinning 42

2.3. Warp Dyeing

2.3.1. Introduction 46

2.3.2. Rope Dyeing 48

2.3.3. Slasher dyeing 54

2.4. Weaving 59

2.5. Finishing & Processing


2.5.2. Wet Finishing 62

3. Denim Incubation Department

3.1. Design Team 66

3.2. Design Line 69

3.3. Innovation Pipeline Denims 70

3.4. Technical Team 71

4. Quality Assurance & Standardization

4.1. Introduction 74

4.2. Process Defects 76

4.3. Testing

4.3.1. Physical 79

4.3.2. Chemical 80

4.3.3. Shade 82

4.4. Packaging & Shipping 83

4.5. Accreditations 84


Page 6

5. Project Report-

5.1. Better Cotton Initiative 87


5.1.2. Features 90

5.1.3. The Better Cotton System 91

5.1.4. Production Principles 92

5.1.5. Criteria For Assessment 92

5.1.6. Audit Information 93

5.1.7. Products Traceability Along The Supply Chain 93

5.1.8. Support 94

5.1.9. Costs 94

5.1.10. Countries & Regions 96

5.1.11. Overview of Requirements 98

5.2. BCI at Arvind Limited


5.2.2. Farm Projects 102

5.2.3. Contract Farming 103

5.2.4. Benefits

5.2.4.1. Economical Benefits 105

5.2.4.2. Environmental Benefits 106

5.2.4.3. Social Benefits 106

5.2.5. Quality Assessment 107

5.2.6. Results & Analysis 108

5.2.7. Conclusion 109

6. References 110


Page 7

Arvind Limited started with a share capital of Rs 2,525,000 ($55,000) in the

year 1931. With the aim of manufacturing the high-end superfine fabrics Arvind

invested in very sophisticated technology. With 52,560 ring spindles, 2552

doubling spindles and 1122 looms it was one of the few companies in those days

to start along with spinning and weaving facilities in addition to full-fledged

facilities for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and mercerizing. The sales in the year

1934, three years after establishment were Rs 45.76 lakh and profits were Rs 2.82

lakh. Steadily producing high quality fabrics, year after year, Arvind took its place

amongst the foremost textile units in the country.

In the mid 1980s the textile industry faced another major crisis. With the

power loom churning out vast quantities of inexpensive fabric, many large

composite mills lost their markets, and were on the verge of closure. Yet that

period saw Arvind at its highest level of profitability. There could be no better

time, concluded the Management, for a rethink on strategy. The Arvind

management coined a new word for it new strategy Reno vision. It simply

meant a new way of looking at issues, of seeing more than the obvious and that

became the corporate philosophy.

The national focus paved way for international focus and Arvinds markets

shifted from domestic to global, a market that expected and accepted only quality

goods. An in-depth analysis of the world textile market proved an eye opener.

People the world over were shifting from synthetic to natural fabrics. Cottons

were the largest growing segments. But where conventional wisdom pointed to

popular priced segments, Reno vision pointed to high quality premium niches.

About the Company | Introduction


Page 8

Thus in 1987-88 Arvind entered the export market for two sections -Denim for

leisure & fashion wear and high quality fabric for cotton shirting and trousers. By

1991 Arvind reached 1600 million meters of Denim per year and it was the third

largest producer of Denim in the world.

In 1997 Arvind set up a state-of-the-art shirting, gabardine and knits facility,

the largest of its kind in India, at Santej. With Arvinds concern for environment a

most modern effluent treatment facility with zero effluent discharge capability

was also established.

Year 2005 was a watershed year for textiles. With the muliti-fiber

agreement getting phased out and the disbanding of quotas, international textile

trade was poised for a quantum leap. In the domestic market too, the

rationalizing of the cenvat chain and the growth of the organized retail industry

was likely to make textiles and apparel see an explosive growth.

Arvind has carved out an aggressive strategy to verticalize its current

operations by setting up worldscale garmenting facilities and offering a one-stop

shop service, by offering garment packages to its international and domestic

customers. With Lee, Wrangler, Arrow and Tommy Hilfiger and its own domestic

brands of Flying Machine, Newport, Excalibur and Ruf & Tuf, Arvind set its vision

of becoming the largest apparel brands company in India.


Page 9

1931

The inception of Arvind Mills Limited at the hands of three brothers - Kasturbhai,

Narottambhai and Chimanbhai Lalbhai

1934

Arvind establishes itself amongst the foremost textile units in the country.

1980

Arvind records highest levels of profitability. The new strategy Reno vision,

points at changing the business focus from local to global, towards a high-quality

premium niche market.

1987-88

Arvind enters the export market for Denims with a dual focus - Denim for leisure

and Denim for fashion wear.

1991

Arvind emerges as the third largest manufacturer of denim in the world.

About the Company | Journey


Page 10

1997

Indias largest state-of-the-art facility for shirting, gabardine and knits is set up at

Santej.

2005

Arvind creates a unique one-stop shop service on a global scale, offering garment

packages to reputed national and international customers.

2007

Arvind expands its presence in the brands and retail segment by establishing

MegaMart One of Indias largest value retail chains.

2010

Arvind launches The Arvind Store, a concept putting the companys best fabrics,

brands and bespoke styling and tailoring solutions under one roof. Arvind

launches its first major Real Estate projects. Arvind becomes one of Indias largest

producers of fire protection fabrics.


Page 11

The underlying theme running across the broad spectrum

of all business activities at Arvind is that of enhancing

lifestyles of people, across all diversities and

demographics.

OUR PHILOSOPHY

WE BELIEVE

In people and their unlimited potential; in content and in

focus on problem solving; in teams for effective

performance, in the power of the intellect.

WE ENDEAVOUR

To select, train and coach people to obtain higher

responsibilities; to nurture talent, and to build leaders for

the corporations of tomorrow; to reward, celebrate and

activate all intellectual business contributions.

WE DREAM

Of excellence in all endeavors; of mutual benefit and

prosperity; of making the world a better place to live in.

About the Company | Companys Vision

We will enable

people to

experience a

better quality of

life by providing

enriching and

inspiring lifestyle

solutions.


Page 12

The late 1980s saw Arvind pioneer the manufacture of denim in India. Today with

an installed capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, Arvind is a leading

producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and Sustainability have been

Arvinds core competency and have played a key role in Arvinds success. The use

of sophisticated ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-renowned

designers has enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the international markets.

All Arvinds products are designed and modeled on the basis of expert design

inputs coming from Arvinds designers based out of India, Japan, Italy and the

United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark of

distinctiveness and quality.

Some Examples:

Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim

Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge

Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, Linen

Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes

Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Handspun denim

Organic, BCI & Sustainable denim

The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100,

GOTS, and Organic exchange standard. Arvinds labs are certified by NABL (ISO

17025 certification) and customers like Levis, Lee, and Wrangler etc.

About the Company | Divisions

Denim


Page 13

Shirting & Bottom weights

Arvinds expertise in new age shirting fabric and bottom weights is unparalleled.

Arvinds shirting fabrics have consistently fetched a premium in the local and

international markets. Arvinds state of the art facility is capable of producing a

total of 65 million meters per annum of Shirting and bottom weight fabrics. This

capacity is set to increase reaching a total of 84 million meters by the next

financial year.

We have a dedicated in-house design team constantly working on product

innovation and fashion forecasts for the domestic and international markets. We

also boast of the largest yardage and sampling mill in India.

Arvinds spinning setup can produce a variety of counts for yarn types like

compacts, slubs, signed yarn etc. Arvinds weaving capabilities include high-speed

Airjet looms and Rapier looms. Arvinds finishing capabilities include continuous

bleaching and dying ranges, caustic mercerization, and machinery for various

chemical and mechanical finishes.

Woven Fabrics


Page 14

A sophisticated and supremely flexible package dying facility complete with

vessels ranging from 1 Kg to 750 Kgs and state of the art printing facilities are also

in place.

In addition to cotton we now work with a variety of fibers incuding Modal,

Tencel, Excel, Viscose, Bemberg, Lycra, Silk, Linen, Polyester and Nylon.

We are host to Indias first Ammonia Mercerization Plant

We use patented technology to impart structural stability and superior

hand-feel for the difficult-to-handle firbers like Modal, Tencel, Excel and Viscose

Over the years, Arvinds inhouse R&D department has sucessfully developed

and perfected a number of finishes adding value to Arvinds products and

uniqueness to Arvinds range.

Other Chemical Finishes: Wrinkle free, Prepress, Everfresh, Easy to Iron,

Stain Repellant, Nano Care, Anti-Bacterial, Permawhite etc.

Mechanical Finishes: Aero, Peach, Brush, Diamond Emery and Carbonium

Arvinds product range is certified by Oekotex, Arvinds processes are certified by

GOTS for producing Organic products, we're certified producers of Lycra and

Teflon based varieties, while Arvinds laboratory is accredited by Marks and

Spencers, Next, Gap Inc., Levi's, DuPont and INVISTA.


Page 15

Voiles

Arvind has been well poised as a leading manufacturer of super fine fabrics in

India. An uncontested market-leader in the manufacture of voiles, Arvind still

continues to manufacture the traditional fabric for both domestic and

international markets. The legacy of Arvind transcends from the olden days into a

golden future with a production capacity of 36 million meters per annum. Arvinds

voiles are primarily used as blouse material and are sold in the domestic market

through an impressive network of around 150 dealers, reaching over 5000 retail

outlets throughout India. High quality Swiss voiles are exported to Switzerland, Sri

Lanka and countries in the Middle East.


Page 16

Arvinds knits department has an annual knitting capacity of 5,000 tons. The knits

vertical has a fabric dyeing capacity of 5000 tons per annum and yarn dyeing

capacity of 1800 tons per annum. It has the ability to process both tubular and

open-width fabrics and offers specialty fin+ishes like mercerization, singeing and

various forms of brushing and peaching.

Basic knits:

Jersey, Pique, Rib, and Interlock

Specialty knits: Yarn-dyed, Auto stripers, Jacquards, and Stretch fabric

Fibers: Cotton, Excel, Viscose, Modal, Polyester

Finishes: Mercerization, Brushing, Peaching, Aero-finish.

Marks & Spencer Eddie Bauer Zara Josepha Banks

Knits


Page 17

A world without boundaries is a promise of a global marketplace. At Arvind, our

range of fabrics is universal in appeal. We aim to inspire a diverse mix of

customers enriching lifestyles globally. We have successfully established ourselves

as a one-stop shop for apparel solutions catering to an array of national and

international clients.

Bottoms: 7.2 million pieces of jeans per annum

Formal & Casual tops: 6 million pieces per annum

Knit tops: 3.6 million pieces per annum

Our specialized capabilities for adding value to our products include:

Automated Placement Printing Machinery

Indias largest washing facility with Tonello machines for wet

proesses

Bohemian machines and Laser tech for unique and automated dry

processes

Skilled artisans for hand processes

Gap Inc Patagonia Tommy Hilfiger Quicksilver Brooks Brothers Silver

Jeans Calvin Klein FCUK Pull & Bear Jack & Jones Energie Esprit

S.Oliver Mexx Sisley Benetton Coin

Garment Exports


Page 18

We envision world leadership in the field of advanced materials offering

high-tech textile solutions for critical and composite applications.

Arvind Ltd., A US $ 1.3 billion Lalbhai Group company has created the

Advanced Textiles Business. Building further on our legacy of innovation, we have

brought a new level of sophistication to manufacturing fabrics. Our Pro1 range of

branded fabrics and composite textiles includes solutions for growing industrial

sectors like Personal Protection, Industrial Filtration, Wind Energy, Defense, Auto

Components, Transportation, and Housing & Infrastructure.

Products in the Pro1 range include:

Fire Protection Fabrics

Chemically treated Flame Retardant Fabrics

Proban

Pyrovatex

Inherent Fire Resistant Fabrics

Nomex

Protex (Modacrylic)

High Tech Applications

Filtration Fabrics

Anti-Ballistic Fabrics

Nylon Fabrics

Carbon-Glass-Aramid Fabrics

Advanced Materials


Page 19

Arvind is amongst a few organizations worldwide with a portfolio of brands that

are as distinctive and relevant across diverse consumers. At Arvind, brands work

across multiple channels, price points and consumer segments. The expanse of

the Arvind brandscape is spread across the Indian market with around 273

standalone brand stores in addition to 975 counters selling through key accounts

and multibrand outlets across India.

Own Brands Licensened Brands Joint Venture Brands

Mainstream Bridge to Luxury Bridge to Luxury

Excalibur Gant U.S.A. 1949 Tommy Hilfiger

Flying Machine Energie

Popular

Premium

Premium

Ruf & Tuf USPA Lee

New Port University Arrow Wrangler

Izod

Popular

Cherokee

Mossimo

Arvind Brands


Page 20

Arvind runs India's largest Value Retail Chain - Megamart. The MegaMart format

offers a unique and differentiated proposition to the consumers. It offers mega

brands at amazingly low prices and provides a retail experience of a high-end

department store.

The Megamart stores range in size from 2000 sq ft to 65000 sq ft. The larger

stores are called Big Megamart and there are 6 such stores across Bangalore,

Chennai, Pune and Mumbai. The smaller formats spreads across the country are

205 in number. Megamart is expanding rapidly and is expected to be a Rs. 1000 cr

chain within the next two years.

The brands sold exclusively in Megamart include:

RUGGERS - SKINN - ELITUS - DONUTS - KARIGARI - MEA CASA - AUBURN HILL -

BAY ISLAND - COLT - LEISHA- EDGE

Mega Mart Retail


Page 21

After decades of ruling the national and international fabric markets, Arvind has

now introduced The Arvind Store, a unique concept in fabrics and apparel retail.

The Arvind Store bring together, under one roof, the best that Arvind has to offer.

It is a convergence of three of Arvinds strongest capabilities, the best of fabrics

from Arvinds textiles division, leading apparel brands from Arvind Brands and

bespoke styling solutions based on the latest garment styles from Arvind Studios.

In a world where bespoke tailoring meets cutting edge fashion, The Arvind Store

will create a shopping experience to rival the best in the Indian Marketplace.

Over a 1000 different fabric styles across shirting, suiting and denim

Leading apparel brands such as Arrow, US Polo & Flying Machine

Arvind Denim Labs (ADL), a bespoke denim concept offering customized

washed denim - a first of its kind in India and perhaps the world

Arvind Studio A styling and tailoring solution to rival the best brands in the

world

The Arvind Store


Page 22

Corporate

Jayesh Shah

Director & CFO

Anang Lalbhai

MD - Arvind Products

Lifestyle Fabrics

Aamir Akhtar

CEO, Lifestyle Fabrics - Denim

Susheel Kaul

CEO, Knits & Woven Fabrics

PD Chavda

President, Voiles

Lifestyle Apparel

Ashish Kumar

CEO, Lifestyle Apparel - Jeans & Shirts

About the Company | Executive Leaders


Page 23

Brands & Retail

J.Suresh

Managing Director - Brands & Retail

Knowledge Academy

Milan Shah

CEO, Knowledge Academy


Page 24

MR. SANJAY S. LALBHAI

(CHAIRMAN AND MANAGING DIRECTOR)

Mr. Sanjay S. Lalbhai, 58 years, is the Chairman and Managing Director of the

Company. He is a Science Graduate with a Master's degree in Business

Management and has been associated with the Company for more than 33 years.

He also holds directorships in Arvind Lifestyle Brands Limited, Arvind Retail

Limited, Arvind Brands & Retail Limited, Amol Decalite Limited, Torrent

Pharmaceuticals Limited, Arvind Worldwide Inc., USA, Arvind Worldwide (M) Inc.,

Arvind Overseas (M) Ltd. Arvind Spinning Ltd., Mauritius and Arvind Textile Mills

Limited, Bangladesh.

MR. JAYESH SHAH

(DIRECTOR AND CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER)

Mr. Jayesh K. Shah, 52 years, is the Wholetime Director with the designation of

Director and Chief Financial Officer of the Company. He is a Commerce Graduate

and a Chartered Accountant and has been with the company since 1st July, 1993.

He has a distinguished academic career and extensive administrative, financial,

regulatory and managerial expertise. He also holds directorships in many other

companies.

About the Company | Board of Directors


Page 25

MR. PUNIT LALBHAI

(EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR)

Mr. Punit Lalbhai, 30 years, is an MBA from INSEAD (France) specializing in

Strategy and General Management, along with Post-Graduate degree in Masters

of Environmental Science from Yale University, and a Bachelors degree in Science

(Conservation Biology) from University of California, USA. He has several awards

and honors during his career including Research Grants, Presidential Fellowship

Grant, J.M. Long-Endowed Scholarship and inclusion in Deans Lists for consistent

Academic Excellence.

MR. KULIN LALBHAI

(EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR)

Mr. Kulin Lalbhai, 27years, is an MBA from Harvard Business School (USA), along

with a Bachelors degree in Science (Electrical Engineering) from Stanford

University, USA. He has held several leadership positions during his academic role

including serving as Co-President of Family Business Club at Harvard, Associate

Director for Stanford Asia Technology Initiative and also serving as Conference Co-

Chair for the Harvard-India Conference.


Page 26

OTHER DIRECTORS

Mr. Sudhir Mehta

(Non-executive and Independent Director)

Mr. Sudhir Mehta is a Science Graduate from Gujarat University. He was

instrumental in the growth and progress of Torrent Pharmaceuticals Ltd., the

flagship Company of the Torrent Group. He systematically expanded the power

business of Torrent Group by acquiring significant stakes in the Torrent Power

AEC Ltd. and Torrent Power SEC Ltd. and Torrent Power Generation Limited, now

merged with Torrent Power Limited and one among the few successful

independent power projects in India.

Dr. Bakul H. Dholakia


Dr. Bakul H. Dholakia is a Gold Medalist from Baroda University and he has a

Doctorate in Economics. He has 41 years of professional experience including 33

years at IIM, Ahmedabad. He has been a consultant to various national and

international organizations. He was awarded many awards including Padma Shri

by the Government of India in recognition of his distinguished services in the field

of education in 2007, Bharat Asmita National Award for his contribution to

management education and teaching by the Honbe Chief Justice of India in 2008

etc.


Page 27

Mr. Munesh Khanna


Mr. Munesh Khanna, 50 years, is a Chartered Accountant from ICAI. He has been

with the Company since 27th October, 2007. He has over 20 years of experience

in the financial, regulatory and taxation domain. He has an extensive network of

relationships with Indian Corporates.

Ms. Renuka Ramnath


Ms. Renuka Ramnath is the Founder and Managing Director of Multiples

Alternate Asset Management Pvt. Ltd. which seeks to manage circa $450 million

of Indian and International capital.

Mr. Prabhakar R. Dalal

(Nominee Director of EXIM Bank of India)

Mr. Prabhakar R. Dalal is the Executive Director of EXIM Bank of India having

qualifications of M.Com, LL.B, CAIIB and PGDFERM and a fellow of the Indian

Institute of Banking and Finance (FIIBF).

He has six years experience in commercial banking after joining as PO and 28

years experience in International Trade Financing, Projecting Financing,

Institutional Relations, Corporate Banking and Corporate Finance.


Page 28

Arvind is a pioneer in the manufacture of denim in India. Today with an

installed capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, The Naroda plant

accounts for 89% of the company's total denim fabric capacity of 108 million

meters.

CEO of the Arvind denim division is Mr. Aamir Akhtar.

Arvind denim holds the position of 3rd largest producer of denim in the

world; and an export network of 70 countries worldwide. Prominent products in

this category include ring denim, indigo voiles, organic denim, bi-stretch denim

and fair trade certified denim. This is apart from regular light, medium and heavy

weight denims. They come in various shades of indigo, sulfur, yarn-dyed, in 100%

cotton and various blends.

Arvind is a leading producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and

Sustainability have been their core competency and have played a key role in

their success in producing the highest quality of denim and being the market

leaders.

About the Company | Denim Division


Page 29

They have a huge DNTG department that is Development and New

technology that is the hub of innovation for denims. The use of sophisticated

ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-renowned designers has

enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the international markets. The facilities of

Arvind Denim are accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100, GOTS,

Organic exchange standard, FLO for fair trade and Lycra Assured. As one of the

largest denim producers in the world, Arvind caters to quality markets of Europe,

US, West Asia, the Far East and the Asia Pacific. Labs are certified by NABL (ISO

17025 certification) The labs are accredited by Dupont, Levi Strauss, GAP.

All the products are designed and modeled on the basis of expert design

inputs coming from our designers based out of India, Japan, Italy and the United

States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark of distinctiveness and

quality.


Page 30

About the Company | International Buyers


Page 31

z

About the Company | Own Brands


Page 32

Production Process | Process Flow Chart


Page 33

PROCESS FLOW OF SPINNING DEPARTMENT:

LAY OUT

Blow Room [Blending]

Carding

Drawing

Spinning Packaging

FILTER

SLEEVE ROOM

BLENDOM

AT

FILTER

ROOM

YARN STORAGE AREA

COTTON GODOWN

BLOW ROOM

DRAW FRAME

CARDING EXTENSION CARDING

AUTO CORO

Production Process | Spinning

AUTO

CORO

STORE


Page 34

BLOW ROOM

Input Cotton Bales -Full of trashes or impurities i.e. leaves, seed, chaff, metallic particle, dusts etc.

Purpose Opening Cleaning Mixing or blending Dust removal Uniform feed to the carding machine

Output Clean & open small tufts

No. of Machines 2 Lines with 12 machines

Machine make Trtzschler

No. of Operators 2 Operators ( 1op/mc)

To open the compressed layer of bale of cotton or any staple

fibres.

To convert the mass of cotton fibres in to a uniform thick sheet

of cotton both longitudinally and transversely in the form of

compactly built lap.

To blend different varieties of cotton in the desired

proposition to prepare the raw material for the spinning

process.

To extract the impurities like broken seeds, leaves, sand, stone & iron particles, short

fibres, immature fibres, dust, dirt by opening and beating.

OBJECTIVES


Page 35

PROCESS FLOW OF BLOW ROOM:

Blendomat

GBR

AFC

MPM-8

ASTA

BE-961

SRS-6

RN

BE-981

RSK

DUST-EX

FBK 533

CARDING

GBR

AFC

MPM-8

ASTA

BE-961

SRS-6

RN

BE-981

RSK

DUST-EX

FBK 533

CARDING


Page 36

Blendomat

o Blending of different types of cotton to maintain consistency

GBR

o Cotton Opener

o Converts bales into small tufts

AFC

o Axi-Flow Cleaner

o Separation of heavy parts (impurities) from cotton

MPM-8

o Multiple Mixer with 8 Chambers

o Sorts the cotton fibers & is used for homogenous mixture of fibers

ASTA

o Heavy trash separation from

BE-961

o Reservoir trunk with opening & cleaning

SRS-6

o Cleaning


Page 37

RN

o Cleaning

BE-981

o Reservoir trunk with opening & cleaning

RSK

o Cleaning

DUST-EX

o Removal of Dust & Micro dust

FBK 533

o Enables continuous feeding from Blow Room to Carding


Page 38

CARDING

Input Clean & open small tufts

Purpose To open the flocks into individual fibers Cleaning or elimination of impurities Reduction of neps Elimination of dust Elimination of short fibers Fiber blending Fiber orientation or alignment Sliver formation

Output Sliver

No. of Operators 2 Operators ( 1op/10mc)

No. of Machines 20 machines


Model DK 803

Production 18,000 kg/day

Card cleaning efficiency 62-67%

CV% 1.2-1.7%

Front Delivery speed 325 Pascal


Page 39

Carding is the process of removing impurities from fibers and producing a carded

sliver of parallelized and straightened fibers

Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must

be removed, the fibers must be disentangles, and they must be

straightened.

The straightening process puts the fibers into somewhat parallel CARDING.

The work is done by carding machine.

The lap is passed through a beater section and drawn on rapidly revolving

cylinder covered with very fine hooks or wire brushes slowly moves

concentrically above this cylinder

As the cylinder rotates, the cotton is pulled by the cylinder through the

small gap under the brushes; the teasing action removes the remaining

trashes, disentangles the fibers , and arranges them in a relatively parallel

manner in form of a thin web.

This web is drawn through a funnel shaped device that molds it into a

round rope like mass called card sliver.

Card sliver produces carded yarns or carded cottons that are serviceable to

produce denim fabrics.

After carding, the carded slivers go to the draw frame.


Page 40

DRAW FRAME

Input Slivers

Purpose 6 Slivers are converted into 1

Parallelization of fiber

Enhancement of Density

Blending

Auto-leveler maintains absolute sliver fineness

Output Sliver


No. of Machines 6 Breakers + 6 finishers


Model HSR 900

Production 3.5 ton/day

Drawing is the process where the fibers are blended, straightened and the

number of fibers in the sliver increased in order to achieve the desired linear

density in the spinning process. The drawing process also improves the uniformity

or evenness of the sliver. The number of drawing passages utilised depends on

the spinning system used and the end products


Page 41

In arvind mills, the sliver is drawn through the draw frame twice.

1ST PASSAGE:

Parallel alignment of fibers, 6 slivers are converted into one sliver.

2nd PASSAGE:

Output of the second passage of draw frame goes into open end

spinning.


Page 42

SPINNING

The plant at Naroda works entirely on open end spinning technology spinning.

Fehlafharfts AUTOCORO spinning machine.

No. of Machines installed - 24 (in all 3 units) 11+7+6

Total number of rotors in each Spinning Unit:

AML Section 2376 rotors

EOU Section 1680 rotors

RDP Section 1440 rotor.

Twist produced: Z twist only.

Yarn length on creel: 64800 meters.

Automatic piecing: Corolap automatic splicer

Count: 5.3 to 20 count.

6 slub forming machine

The yarn formed is rolled in form of cheese, cone and bobbin.

The speed of the rotor roll varies from 80,000 rpm to 130,000 rpm.


Page 43

Open end spinning:

Rotor Spinning is a more recent method of yarn formation compared

to Ring Spinning.

This is a form of open-end spinning where twist is introduced into the

yarn without the need for package rotation. Allowing higher twisting

speeds with a relatively low power cost.

In rotor spinning a continuous supply of fibers is delivered from

delivery rollers off a drafting system or from an opening unit.

The fibers are sucked down a delivery tube and deposited in the

groove of the rotor as a continuous ring of fiber. The fiber layer is

stripped off the rotor groove and the resultant yarn wound onto a

package.

The twist in the yarn being determined by the ratio of the rotational

speed of the rotor and the linear speed of the yarn.

Sliver is fed into the machine and combed and individualized by the

opening roller.


Page 44

The fibers are then deposited into the rotor where air current and

centrifugal force deposits them along the groove of the rotor where

they are evenly distributed.

The fibers are twisted together by the spinning action of the rotor,

and the yarn is continuously drawn from the center of the rotor. The

resultant yarn is cleared of any defects and wound onto packages.

The production rates of rotor spinning is 6-8 times higher than that of

ring spinning and as the machines are fed directly by sliver and yarn

is wound onto packages ready for use in fabric formation the yarn is

a lot cheaper to produce.

Rotor spun yarns are more even, somewhat weaker and have a

harsher feel than ring spun yarns.

Rotor spun yarns are mainly produced in the medium count (30 Ne,

20 tex) to coarse count (10 Ne, 60 tex) range.

The yarn is wound on a big package of about 4 kg.

The use of this system has two basic advantages. It is fed by sliver,

not as with the ring frame by roving, and so eliminates the speed

frame from the process line. It can also be modified to remove any

remaining trash, thereby improving the yarn quality.


Page 45

Ring Spinning Open-end Spinning

Bobbin rotates constantly for insertion

of twist

Spool does not need to be rotated to

insert twist

Cannot handle spools of bigger size Much larger spools can be wound

Can spin finer yarns 3-5 times faster than ring spinning

Uniform and strong yarn Uniform but flexible yarn with better

dye ability

Combed yarns (finer) Carded yarns (coarser)

Yarns for varied applications Yarns for heavier fabrics such as

denims, towels and poplins

Stronger 20% more twisted but 15-20% weaker

as the yarn is coarser

Suitable for all staple fibers Not suitable for man-made staple fiber

spinning


Page 46

Warp Dyeing-

Normally the process of dyeing dictates the technology of Denim manufacturing.

The dyeing for Denim Fabric happens at the yarn stage. Generally there are two

most popular methods of dyeing Denim followed. They are:

1. Rope Dyeing

2. Slasher/Sheet Dyeing

Process flow of each of the above mentioned processes are discussed in detail

below.

Warping is transferring many yarns from creel of single-end package forming

parallel sheet of yarn wound on to be a beam or section beam. Warping

machines can process all type of materials including coarse and fine filament and

staple yarns, monofilament, textured and smooth yarns, silk and other synthetic

yarn such as glass.

A warp beam that is installed on weaving machine is known as weaver beam. A

weaver beam contain thousand of ends, but in denim production a beam obtain

from warping is known as section beam because denim is made from dyed yarn

thats why first section beam can be obtained and then these section beam are

combined on the stage dyeing and sizing to get required number of ends for

weaving process. In denim production initially the yarns are first dyed and then

weaving process is carried out .

Warp Dyeing | Introduction


Page 47

There are two method of yarn dyeing in denim production

Rope dyeing.

Slasher dyeing.

Warping method used for both method of dyeing are different. The process

used for rope dyeing is known as BALL WARPING and for slasher dyeing

BEAM WARPING method is used.

BEAM WARPING BALL WARPING


Page 48

1. ROPE DYEING

Believed to be the best possible indigo dyeing method for yarn, the threads

of denim yarn are initially twisted into a rope, and then undergo a

repetitive sequence of dipping and oxidization. The more frequent the

dipping and oxidizing, the stronger the indigo shade.

1 rope = 350-460 ends

Process Flowchart-

1) Ball Warping- the process of winding warp in rope form onto

balls.

Balls are cross wound packages and warp is form of rope.

Technical Details as per the company-

- 5 Machines in total for the process

- 1 operator is required per machine

- Machine setup time/creel changing time is 20 min

- Stop Motion / Defect sensor

- 444 ends per creel

- 320 metes/min creels rpm

- 4 hour cycle time

Ball Warping

Rope Dyeing

Re-Beaming

Sizing

Warp Dyeing | Rope Dyeing


Page 49

2) Rope Dyeing- the process of dyeing the yarn in rope form.

Morrison Rope dyeing range is installed at Arvind, Naroda.

Machine passage- 800 meters; 5 rolls are used per chamber run.

Machine Units for the process-

i) Pre Wetting Zone

Temp- 70+/- 30 C / 85C for Sulphur BottomSq. Pressure PSI- 70 Dancer Weights- 3

ii) Pre Washing Zone

Tank 2 is cold wash after sulphur bottoming I done to prevent color slippage and then tank 3 and 4 hot wash.

iii) Dyeing Zone Ph range- 12.45, Redox potential -820mv to -860mv Sq. Pressure- 85 +/- 3 PSI Dancer Weight- 6 *For indigo dyeing dip time: air time is 1:6

iv) Wash Zone

Temp- 50+/- 5 C Sq. Pressure PSI- 90 Dancer Weights- 6 Ash flow- 100+/-5

v) Hot Wash Zone

Temp- 85C Ph range- 12.60 12.85 Redox- -810 to -660 Sq- 75 PSI Dancer Weight- 6

Drying Cans 48 cylinders in total 5 bar pressure

Coiling Units Litter waste and final collected separately


Page 50

*Shade Checking System- Spectrophotometer is also present in the

machine

In this method a warp beams first converts into rope beamers and then transfer

to the Rope Dyeing machine for the further process.

Rope-dye ranges enable to produce pure indigo, sulfur bottom, sulfur top, and

colored denim yarn. The yarn goes through scour/sulfur dye, wash boxes, indigo

dye vats, over a skying device (to allow oxidation to occur), through additional

wash boxes, over drying cans and then is coiled into tubs which are transferred to

the Re- Beaming process.

The speed range of this machine is 0 to 30m/min with the production capacity of

2 sets in same time.

Production per day is 36000x2=72000m; at the speed of 25m/min

Count range in rope dyeing is (16s to 6/s) OE and Slub both.


Page 51

3) Re-Beaming - Re-opening the rope and winding it on beams so that they

can be sized on next step.


- 13 Machines in total for the process

- 1 operator is required per machine

- Machine setup time is 25 min

- 441 combs per machine

- 96000 meter/ day/ machine

4) Sizing To cover the yarn with size material in order to prevent breakage

during the weaving process due to the tension it undergoes.


- 3 Machines in total for the process, for regular sizing and

third for experiments and tests.

- 2 creels set at a time lodged in the machine, one spare

and one running

- 1 operator per machine & 2 assistant operator per

machine required


Page 52

Process-

- Each sheet separated by the guide roll (10 sheets, 10 guide roller)

- Passes through the size box/Sow box at a temp of 90C and any of the 4

recepies mentioned as

per the requirement

64 reed, 43 water, 600gm NS powder/binder, 100kkg with starch

Anilose E starch, mutton tallow 4 kg

800gm NSC, 64+60 stretch reed ( everything else same)

1500g binder, 68+72 reed ( everything else same)

125 DN size, no binder, 48 water- 4 Count: Special Slot

- Drying slot- approx. 125C temp and 4 cylinders

- Accumulator- 2 accumulator beams with 120 m capacity each

5) Recepie (SBIT Mix)

*SBIT stands for Sulphur Bottom Indigo Topping

Chemical Box(gpl) Feed(gpl)

S. Black X 170/480

Caustic 1 1.5


Page 53

Sulphide 10 35

Xekol SNS 1.5 1.9

Setamol WL 0.57 1.9

Primasol NF 1 1.9

Condition Indigo Sulphur

Ph +/- 0.2 12.45-12.70 12.55-12.85

Redox +/-

20 820-860 610-660

Wetability Instant to 3 seconds

Type of Bath for BOX MIX

Dark INDIGO

Conductivity at the start

50 o 60 ms


Page 54

2. SLASHER DYEING

In continuous slasher / sheet dyeing and sizing machine, direct warping

beams are used, instead of ball warping logs in case of Indigo rope dyeing

system. At the back end of the slasher / sheet dyeing range, the direct

warping beams are creeled. The yarns sheet from each beam is pulled over

and combined with the yarns from the other beams so that multiple sheets

of yarns can be made.

In sheet dyeing range, the total No of required ends for a weavers beam are

dyed, dried, sized and dried simultaneously. This continuous slasher dyeing

range eliminates a few intermediate processes of the rope dyeing, such as

re-beaming, sizing.

Process Flowchart-

Pre wetting

Washing

Dyeing

Washing

Drying

Sizing

Drying

Warp Dyeing | Slasher Dyeing


Page 55

Machine Units for the process-

i) Pre Wetting

Zone

(Dyeing tank)

Temp- 70+/- 30 C / 85C for Sulphur Bottom

Nip Pressure- 50 +/- KN

Dancer Pressure- 2.5 kg/cm3

ii) Dyeing Nip pressure= 55+/-3

Temp= room temp

Dyeing capacity= 10,000 l /6 tanks

iii) Washing 1500 l

iv) Drying 8 cylinders

6 bar pressure in total

v) Sizing 2 squeezing rolls and 2 immersion rolls of 15m

depth

vi) Drying

Cans

12 cylinders in total

5 bar pressure

vii) Accumulator 220m capacity

viii) Compensator

and leasing

Winding tension 3000/ KN


Page 56

Recipe

Sulphur Indigo

Decol- 2 gpl Septamol WS- 3 gpl

Sodium sulphite- 15 gpl Indigo- 75 gpl

Caustic- 5 gpl Caustic- 75 gpl

Sulphur- X gpl Hydrosulphite- 115 gpl

Penitrol- 7 .5 gpl Denim HS (leveling agent)- 7.5 gpl

Anti oxidant- 3 gpl -

Machine Setting Specification- SBIT mix

Machine spec

Machine speed 28 +/- 1 meter/min

Head stock press 6+/- 1 Bar

Creel tension 110 +/- 100 N


Page 57

Pre wet

d.p 3 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar

Squeezing pressure 50 +/- 3 bar

55 +/- 3 bar

PW temp 85 +/- 4

Washing Flow rate 2000 +/- 500 lit/hr

Dyeing

D.P. 3 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar

3 +/- .5 bar

Squeezing Pressure

(i) (ii) 45 +/-3 bar


Page 58

Washing Zone

D.P. 2.5 +/- .5

2.5 +/- .5

3.0 +/- .5

Squeezing Pressure

(i) 5-0 +/-3 bar

Temp 50 +/- 4 C


Page 59

WEAVING is interlacement of the warp (length-wise indigo or sulphur dyed yarn)

and the filling (grey yarn cross wise yarn) producing denim in a variety of weights

and styles.

Input Warp Beam and Weft yarn

Output Woven Denim Fabric


No. of Machines 54

Machine make Tsudakoma

Model ZAX 9100

Production 95000m/day

Max. Fabric Width 71.5

Full Weaver's Beam

Tension Roll Drop Pins Heald Wires

Reed Upper Press

Roll Friction Roll

Lower Press Roll

Bottom Guide Roll

Batching guide Roll

Batching Roll Cloth Roll

Weaving | Introduction


Page 60

AUTHENTIC DENIM

A heavy weight fabric

Made of cotton yarn with no yarn characteristics

3/1 right hand twill

100% natural indigo dyed

Weft and warp count 7 & 6 respectively with 36 picks per inch

TYPES OF YARNS USED

Warp: Organic, Conventional

Weft- Open end, Ring spun, Slub, Lycra, Polyester, Poly lycra


Page 61

Finishing and Processing

Arvind Mill, Naroda boasts of 2 integrated finishing ranges and 2 other finishing

departments. In integrated denim finishing range, the singeing and shrinking is

carried out in a single range. This reduces the process time, material handling,

cost of production and labour cost.

Finishing of grey denim fabric normally carried out after weaving. It takes an

important role infabric properties, appearance, softness and residual fabric

shrinkage.

The department churns out 300000 meters of finished denim cloth a day.

The main purposes of applying various finishes may be summarised as under.

1. HIGH SALES APPEAL: To impart properties of attractive appearance, supple

handle, softness and good drape.

2. HIGH WEAR QUALITY: This refers to adequate tensile and abrasion strengths,

dimensional stability, crease recovery and freedom from pilling.

3. BODY PROTECTION AND COMFORT: This relates to proper heat insulation,

moisture absorption and air permeability.

4. SPECIAL EFFECTS: These include water-repellency, reduced flammability,

mildew and moth-proofing, anti-static behaviour and soil release property.

Finishing & Processing | Introduction


Page 62

1) Wet Finishing Department

Process Flow Chart:

I. Singeing Unit

Singeing Unit

Mercerizing Unit

Stentering Unit

Wet Finishing Unit

Craddle Unit

Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Singeing Unit

Nip Unit

Outlet J Unit

Batching & Plaiting Unit

Finishing & Processing | Wet Finishing


Page 63

Unit Specification-

Capacity: 40-50 m/min

Production: 41000-45000 m/ day

15000-17000 m/shift

CNG Gas Burner

90 Flame Interaction

3 operator per machine

II. Mercerizing Unit

Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Caustic Impregnatorr

Stablizer Unit

Washing Unit

Acid Unit

Drying Zone

Outlet J Unit


Page 64

III. Stentering Unit

Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Chemical Padder

Foam Coating Unit

Cliping Unit

Chamber

CNG Fire

Blower

Heat Setting

Coling Drum

Outlet J Unit

Batching Unit


Page 65

Wet Finishing Unit

Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Chemical Padding

Nip

Width Adjusting line

Skew line

Mahalo Unit

Dry Stack Section 1 & 2

Rubber Unit

Palmer Unit

Outlet J Unit

Batching Unit


Page 66

DID is a critical unit for the innovation and creativity that Arvind mills projects.

The department has been constituted in such a manner that it has 2 parts-

The Design Team

The Technical Team

Design Team:

The design team has a constant responsibility of re-innovating denims.

It consists of fashion consultants from Europe and other countries along

with the textile experts and textile designers.

The team works together to create a completely different denim design.

Though it seems like innovation in design in denims has limited scope,

this group of professionals use their creativity and constant thinking

skills to come up with unprecedented designs.

They follow trends, customer feedback and various trends in the various

parts of the world, research it and come up with innovative ideas.

These new designs are featured in fashion shows across the globe, for

top fashion experts to see and review, and hence maintain the

exclusiveness of denim produced by Arvind Mills.

Top designers like Calvin Klien, Chanel etc. and brands like Zara,

Abercrombie and Fitch, Mango, Gap and many others, select these

designs and order them to be produced in mass.

The designs can be created by changing one of the following

characteristics of the fabric:

Denim Incubation Department | Design Team


Page 67

Weave of the fabric:

o (denim is usually 3 x 1 twill)- variations are made in twill weave

or by changing the nature of the weave all together. Like 2X1

or other variations

The dying procedures output:

o (usually done with indigo and sulphur dyes) the dying can

give colour effects to the fabric. Different compositions of

dyes are used and innovations and creativity in the use of

colors, produces more number of designs. Sometimes the

weft and the warp are of different dyes, creating an

iridescent effect. Though traditionally blue or black, many

other colours of denims are created

Fiber Used:

o Authentic denim uses cotton fiber, but for design variations

cotton blends are used. Light weight yarns like polyester are

used to manufacture denim used in garments like jeggings

and lighter weight denim requirements. Most popular

addition to denim fabric is Lycra for streatchability as that is

a prominent feature of jeans. Most recent type of denim

added to the denim family of Arvind is Excel denim(worlds

softest denim)*.


Page 68

Finishes Applied:

o Fabrics can be re-innovated in terms of the type of finish

applied, Now-a-days, there are a variety of finishes that can

be applied to any fabric and same goes for denim. Usually

mercerization is a process not done for denims, as it does

not require very soft and smooth fibers, but inclusion of

finished like mercerization or resin finish, can completely

change the look and feel of the fabric. Other aesthetic

finishes, like partial napping or emerization, anti-crease

finish, permanent creases by resin finish can be given.

*The fabric, Excel Denims, would be manufactured in Arvind Groups production

facility in Ahmedabad, which has a capacity of 120 million metres of fabric per annum.

While Birla Cellulose would be involved in the R&D to create the fibre made of super

refined wood pulp, Arvind would be manufacturing the fabric and selling them both in

the domestic and international markets.


Page 69

The following are a few lines of denim that have been developed and new

products are added to it every day:

Kato (Japanese denim line):

o Kato brings in the authentic attributes of denim in collections, fabrics

mostly made on the shuttle loom and with selvedge.

ADL (Arvind Denim Lab):

o The ADL line is specifically for the US brands. The s/s 2014 collection

has special attractions in the form of colour denims, indigos with

colour fills andsummer lights in excel along with the authentic core

line

Euroline (European denim line):

o The Euroline is specifically for the brand needs inEurope. The s/s

2014 collection has an introduction of shades like pink, sky blue but

in a grading of color.

Metro (Indian denim line):

o The metro line is designed by Arvinds in-house design team

specifically for Indian brands. The collection has the flavor of a true

Indian denim. We have also recently launched a collection in Excel

called Excel Denim in collaboration with Birla Cellulose. It will be the

worlds softest denim.

Denim Incubation Department | Design Lines


Page 70

Arvinds Design department is always high on new developments in the denim

world and always has number of projects under the innovation pipeline which are

yet to be tested and finalized for the season breaks accordingly. Few of those

projects are-

SPIES

o Ecru fabric with only warp dyed yarns which are chemically

treated during spinning.

NEO

o Richer. Deeper denim shade for wash explorations.

KHADI

o Premium line of denim. Hand spun, hand woven. Fantastic look,

drape, fall. On the principle of sustainability.

JACQUARD

o Various shades of denims and fabric types brought in together for

one fabric and different look.

RING

LINEN

o 100% linen in 3x1 weave for better sheen, drape etc. Again a

premium line

Denim Incubation Department

-- Innovation Pipeline Denims


Page 71

The technical team of the development and new technology team aims

at developing the fabric as per customer requirements.

They have technicians and fabric experts who constantly work together

and collaborate with each of the processing units to get the desired

output of the fabric.

Then, they calculate/concur and document the exact procedures and

processes to be followed to create the fabric exactly matching customer

requirements.

Once the processes have been determined by the DNTG department,

they are delegated to the individual units for mass production.

The DID DEPARTMENT at Arvind mills has a database of more than

8000 fabrics, that have been created for all kinds of uses. The designs

range from all kinds of usage of yarn, to differentiation based on any of

the factors mentioned above.

Customers and designers may choose out of this data base to order in

bulk, The data then goes to PPC department, that is production Planning

and Control and the mass production of fabrics start.

Collection development is done at least one year in advance and

presented on a road show/ramp show for the buyers to see and order.

These shows contain 30-35 pieces each o the type of fabric

characteristic being showcased.

Denim Incubation Department | Technical Team


Page 72

There are basically two ways this whole process works:

Collection Development

Customer Development

Technical department takes care of the re production and du-pro problems of the

ongoing batches also.

Consistency/Reproducibility

Feed/Stock

Machines Used

Process Followed

All of the above mentioned factors are taken care by the DID right from the

beginning of the collection development till the marketing stage.


Page 73

DID

Innovation and Process Upgradation

Approval/Confirmmation from the CEO

Testing of Physical Properties

Washing

Spinning (Yran slub characteristics etc)

Dye Stuf (dye style, shade etc)

Weaving (Constrction and Selevedge)

Finishing (Process and Sequence, OD, printing/coating)

Inspection

QA for Testing- Sampling

Comercialisation of the fabric chart prepared

Cost Upgradation- Final Costing

Marketting

Customer Development

Collection Development


Page 74

Arvind is committed at providing the best quality of fabric to the consumers for

over 80 years now. The quality control is an integrated process that starts when

the customer gives the order, and the DNTG develops the samples accordingly, it

is checked for quality assurance measures and compliances with customer needs.

At later stages the fabric is inspected and testing of parameters of fabric is done.

Essentially there are 2 major parts of quality assurance:

QUALITY ASSURANCE AND STANDARDISATION

Inspection department uses 13 Kitamura Machine to find such defects in fabrics.

The inspection frame is aligned at an angle between 45 and 60 degrees.

Speed of fabric on inspection m/c : 25m/min Light : 100 Lux Inclination : 570

Cost of inspection : Rs. 0.65/mtr


Page 75

Arvind follows 100 percent inspection procedures. The acceptance level of the

fabric depends on the customer preferences.

There are two inspectors to keep continuous watch on fabric for finding the

defects. The 4-point grading system indicates that as per customer requirement

defects are allowable upto their levels. We have observed that in VF brand the 4-

point allowable are only 4 that is total 16 defects per 135-meter roll.

4-point grading system is used for inspection of fabrics and this includes:

Size of defect Penalty Points

3 or less 1 Point

3.1 to 6

2 Points

6.1 to 9

3 Points

More than 9

4 Points

Holes or Openings(Largest Dimension)

1 or less

2 Points

More than 1

4 Points

No penalty points are recorded for minor defects.


Page 76

Major Defects are classified as follows:-

Major woven fabric defects such as slubs, holes, missing yarn, conspicuous

yarn variation, end out, soiled yarn, and wrong yarn.

Major knitted fabric defects are mixed yarn, yarn variation, runner, needle

line, barre, slub,hole, press off.

Major dyeing or printing defects are print out, dye spots, machine stop,

color smear or shading.

Fabric containing more than 40 points per 100 square yards is considered as

SECONDS .

At the beginning of the month the inspection department gets the production

plan for the entire month and they plan their procedures accordingly. The

finishing department gives the material transfer note to the inspection

department where the material is checked for the following defects:

QUALITY ASSURANCE & STANDARDISATION | DEFECTS


Page 77

Spinning related Defects:

Warp Slub

Weft Slub

Thick end

Coarse/fine weft

Weft bar

Weaving preparatory related defects

Knot

Slack end

Ball formation

Size patches

Weaving related defects

Starting mark

Tight end

Weft float

Knot

Moir

Repaired warp

Double end

Bowing and Skewing


Page 78

Check for skewed, bowed and biased fabric. For this purpose check the bowing

and s skewing at every 10 meters.

The bowing and skewing are calculated as follows:

Bow: A bow is an uneven deviation of a weft from a line drawn perpendicular to

the selvedge of the fabric.

A bow may have different forms:

If the average Bowing or Skewing for a roll is more than 2-3%, reject the roll.


Page 79

Physical Testing:

The samples are tested for/by:

Yarn evenness: USTER TESTER 5

Statex CSP(cascade strength tester) system:

Yarn count and strength

Single yarn tester

Instron 4465:

Tensile Test for fabric

Elemendorf Tearing Strength:

Tearing strength check by application of 9000g force

Chatillon Stiffness Tester

Resistance to bending

Paramount humidity checker

For humidity control

Stretch/elongation test

Weight of 1.35 kg applied on a designated swatch sample for

half an hour

Dimensional Stability and skew movement test

Shrinkage test

Measure shrinkage after washing thrice + conditioning

Ozone test chamber by USA inc.

Snarl indicator

Twist tester

Statex (14.4 tpi)

TESTING


Page 80

Chemical testing

Tests requested by preferred customers:

LEVIs Test method

Ph ISO-3071

Crocking AATCC-8 SPOT TEST SI 1005

Water Repellency ISO 105-E01

Acid ISO 105-E02

Alkali ISO 105-E04

POLO method

Ph ISO-3071

Crocking ISO 105*12

WATER repellency ISO 105-E01

Acid ISO 105-E02

Alkali ISO 105-E04

Washing C06-AIM

SPOT TEST SI 1005


Page 81

Chemical Tests Conducted in the lab:

o Raw Material checking like dyeing/finishing auxhillaries

Basic chemical.

Percentage of purity of Hydros, Caustic acid, peroxides etc

Purity performance of dyes like indigo, vat sulphur

Auhilaries like wetting agents, sizing, finishing etc

o Stock Weight of indigo (gpl)

Brandsbender moisture tester (105 degree c. for 4 hrs)

o Weighing balance

Mettler Toledo

o Crockmeter

AATCC

o Formldehyde content in dye/stock bath

o Thermo orion pH meter

o Launder-O-meter

o ATLAS crockmeter

o Genesys 10 spectrophotometer

o Muffle furnace

o Cintex incubator

o EEC beaker dyeing machine

o USA ozone test chamber

o Flamability tester


Page 82

Shade testing:

The software used for shade testing is EASY MATCH.

HunterLab's EasyMatch QC software gives unprecedented flexibility to

process, display, analyze and report color measurement results.

Color measurement and analysis software reports absolute and color

difference data in all widely used color scales, for various lighting and

observing conditions. Pass/Fail functions provide fast go/no-go decisions.

Data can be reported numerically in tabular or spreadsheet form.

Data can also be graphically displayed as color difference plots, trend plots

and spectral curves.

All results can be viewed, stored, printed or imported into your database

programs.

The software uses a spectrophotometer to record observations, and plots

deviations from avg and perfect sample for each roll.

It also provides pass and fail options for rolls that deviate too much from

normal value making it very easy for the operator to assure quality and

minimize shade variation.

It also helps in shade wise differentiation and categorization of rolls. So that

the consumer may be able to easily distinguish between lots of various

shades


Page 83

* The final step is now to OK the batch/lot for shipping and send to the packaging

dept so as to put on the required details and ship the consignment.

The details that need to be present on the packaging are:

Shipment no.

Date

Sort no

F.M.C

Code no

Meters

Flags/points

Opt no.

PACKAGING AND SHIPPING

Rolls of approximately 135m each is sealed by polythene.

Spec. of polythene cover: Plastic bags of 23 micron used


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ISO 9001:2000 by BVQI (India) Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai-India, for Manufacture

and Supply of Denim Fabrics.

The ISO 9000 family of standards is related to quality management systems

and designed to help organizations ensure that they meet the needs of

customers and other stakeholders [1] while meeting statutory and

regulatory requirements related to the product.

The ISO 9001:2000 version sought to make a radical change in thinking by

actually placing the concept of process management front and center

("Process management" was the monitoring and optimisation of a

company's tasks and activities, instead of just inspection of the final

product).

IS0 14000:

Provides environment management standards to help organisations

minimize their negative impact on the environment

Environment Management System (EMS) mandatory

Certification carried out by third party

Focuses on process as in case of ISO 9000

ACCREDITATIONS


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Oeko-Tex Standard 100 by Shirley Technologies Ltd., UK, for Black and

Indigo dyed denim fabrics, black / indigo printed denim fabric including

stretch denims.

The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is a globally uniform testing and certification

system for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all

stages of production.

The tests for harmful substances comprise substances which are prohibited

or regulated by law, chemicals which are known to be harmful to health,

and parameters which are included as a precautionary measure to

safeguard health.

Skal International Standards for Sustainable Textile Production by

Control Union Certifications, The Netherlands, for Processing of organic

cotton.

Global Organic Textile Standards, Control Union Certifications, The

Netherlands, for Processing of fibres from certified organic agriculture.

Levis strauss Laboratory Certification by Levi Strauss & Co., Test Methods

and conditions set forth, Denim Laboratory, The Arvind Mills Ltd.

ISO-17025 NABL National Accreditation Board for Laboratories, Delhi,

India, for Chemical & Mechanical disciplines of testing.


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Premier Accreditation Scheme by Marks & Spencer, Test Methods and

conditions set forth, Laboratory, Shirting Division Business, The Arvind Mills

Ltd.

Liz Claiborne Intl Ltd., Testing audit performance, Laboratory, Shirting

Business Division, The Arvind Mills Ltd.

Labs are certified by DUPONT (LYCRA).

.


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Project Title

o Arvinds Involvement In Better Cotton Initiatives

Objective

o Introduction to BCI

o Arvinds Implementation of BCI Norms

o Quality Analysis of BCI-Bunny Brahma & Bunny Brahma

Cotton

Project Report | Brief


Page 88

Methodology

o Secondary research

Understanding of BCI and its Norms.

o Primary Research

Data Collection

Quality Analysis of BCI bunny Brahma Cotton

Quality Analysis of Bunny Brahma Cotton

o Analysis of the differences between BCI-Bunny Brahma &

Bunny Brahma Cotton

o Conclusion


Page 89

INTRODUCTION

The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is primarily focusing on the following :

To demonstrate the inherent benefits of BC production, particularly the

financial profitability for farmers.

To reduce the impact of water and pesticide use on human and

environmental health.

To improve soil health and biodiversity.

To promote Decent Work for farming communities and cotton farm

workers.

To facilitate global knowledge exchange on more sustainable cotton

production.

To increase the traceability along the cotton supply chain.

Better Cotton Initiative | Introduction


Page 90

KEY FEATURES

Producers need to meet the Minimum

Production Criteria which are the initial core

requirements, to receive a license to produce

BC.

Minimum Production Criteria (MPC) are the

starting point in a cycle of continuous

improvement required by BCI. Once MPC are

met, producers have to address Progress

Requirements.

BCI aims to transform cotton production

worldwide by developing BC as a sustainable

mainstream commodity. There is not BC label

on final products.

A major partner speeding up the production

of BC is the BC Fast Track Program. Leading

BCI brands as well as a number of public

sector funders contribute to the BC Fast Track

program, which channels funds directly to

farmer training and improvement programs,

all designed around the BC standard. This

allows BCI and its partners to reach more

regions, train more farmers and produce

more cotton.

BCI membership focuses on enabling positive

change in the field, supporting supply

creation, building public support and

demonstrating market place demand for BC as

a mainstream commodity.

FACTS & FIGURES

490,000 Metric Tons of

Better Cotton was

produced on 435,000

hectares by 90,000

farmers in 2011-12.

BCI members represents

over 5% of the worlds

total consumption.

246 members by the

end of 2012.


Page 91

The Better Cotton System

The Production Principles and Criteria cannot operate in isolation, and form part

of the BC System. This BC System is made up of the following inter-dependent

components, each as important as the other in making the system effectively

deliver its objectives:

Production Principles and Criteria to provide a global definition of BC

Farmer Support to promote enabling mechanisms at a local and global level,

working with experienced implementing partners, and stimulating public-private

partnership funds to implement these mechanisms

Farm Assessment to encourage farmers to continuously improve, through

measuring results and seasonal learning cycles

Supply Chain connecting supply with demand through an identifiable bale of

100% BC lint

Monitoring, Evaluation and Learning mechanisms to measure progress and

change and to ensure the BC System has the intended impacts on its direct

beneficiaries

Tools, guidelines and learning forums to facilitate the exchange of best practices

and knowledge to encourage the scaling up of collective action


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PRODUCTION PRINCIPLES

BC is produced by farmers who minimize the harmful impact of crop

protection practices

BC is produced by farmers who use water efficiently and care for the

availability of water

BC is produced by farmers who care for the health of the soil

BC is produced by farmers who conserve natural habitats

BC is produced by farmers who care for and preserve the quality of the

fiber

BC is produced by farmers who promote decent work

CRITERIA FOR ASSESSMENT

Pass and fail:

Producer need to respect Better Cotton Minimum Production Criteria in

order to get a license to produce BC. The BC system aims at continuous

improvement. It is not organized as a simple pass or fail system but goes

beyond by integrating elements of capacity building, data management,

and progress.

What happens if non-conformity is found?

At least 80% of the farmers in Learning Group must comply with all relevant

BC criteria in order for the group to get a license to produce BC. Where a

systematic breach of a Minimum Production Criteria is observed, the whole

Producer Unit may be disqualified.


Page 93

Does the initiative offer incentives for continuous improvement?

After meeting the Minimum Production Criteria, BC farmers have to meet

Progress Requirements. These progress requirements are presented in the

Standards Map database as Medium-term requirements.

AUDIT INFORMATION

1st, 2nd, 3rd party certification:

The BC assurance system is a combination of self-assessment, second party

credibility checks and third party verification.

Frequency of audits: Yearly

Validity of audit certificate: One year.

PRODUCTS TRACEABLITY ALONG THE SUPPLY CHAIN

One of the key elements of the supply chain for BC is the creation of 100% BC

bales, meaning that BC is segregated from farm to gin.

Chain of Custody standard

BCI will create a 100% BC bale, and connect the supply of BC to demand,

putting in place a supply chain system that facilitates the procurement of

BC.

USE OF LOGO ON THE FINAL PRODUCT?

No


Page 94

SUPPORT

To help farmers adopt practices consistent with the BCI Production Principles, BCI

coordinates a program of farmer support activities delivered through experienced

Implementing Partners.

Farmers support covers knowledge sharing and skills development and effective

producer organization For Implementing Partners, three of the BC System

components focus on support. BCI provides a Step by Step Guide to

Implementation for both smallholders and large farms and annual workshops that

help companies understand and implement the BCI program. Applications for

financial grants can be submitted twice a year through an online form. The

funding contribution matches up to a maximum of 50% of the total project cost.

Members receive supply chain support from dedicated supply chain coordinators,

as well as Secretariat and Council support through Caucus calls, BCI hosted events

and webinars.

COSTS

Membership fee: The membership fee is based on member category, size

and either annual lint cotton consumption, annual turnover/income, or

whether the organization is based in an OECD Country or a non-OECD

country.

Certification costs: Third party verification costs are born by large farms or

by BCI in the case of smallholders.


Page 95

THE BCI STANDARD SYSTEM IS APPLICABLE TO PRODUCERS IN THE FOLLOWING

COUNTRIES AND REGIONS:

ASIA China, India, Pakistan, Tajikistan

AFRICA Benin, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Mali, Senegal, Togo

SOUTH AMERICA Brazil


Page 96

Areas Covered by BCI standard system:

Immediate Requirement:

The BCI Minimum Production Criteria form the initial core requirements

for farmers to grow Better Cotton. These criteria are presented in the

Standards Map database as Immediate requirements.

Medium-term requirement:

The BCI Progress Requirements form an additional set of requirements

that farmers, after meeting the Minimum Production Criteria must

complete with a minimum number of additional benchmarks within the

following 3 growing seasons, while of course maintaining compliance to the

Minimum Production Criteria. These progress requirements are

presented in the Standards Map database as Medium-term

requirements.


Page 97


Page 98

OVERVIEW OF REQUIREMENTS:

EXPLANATION:

Critical:

The BCI Minimum Production Criteria form the initial core requirements

for farmers to grow Better Cotton. These criteria are presented in the

Standards Map database as critical requirements.


Page 99

Medium term:

After meeting the Minimum Production Criteria, Better Cotton farmers

have to meet Progress Requirements. These progress requirements are

presented in the Standards Map database as Medium-term requirements.


Page 100


Page 101

As the leader of Indian textile industry, Arvind has taken it upon itself to develop

models that make production of its most valued and most extensively used raw

material more sustainable. Which is why, Arvind Agribusiness has initiated

contract farming projects in Akola district of Maharashtra State & Nizar Taluka in

Tapi district of Gujarat State.

Aims of the Initiative

Improve the farmer's productivity and income

Develop environmentally sustainable business models

Enhance the region's biodiversity

Promote decent work ethics

Develop a lasting social infrastructure & support system

BCI at Arvind Limited | Introduction


Page 102

Details of Project Akola

(Maharashtra)

Nizar

(Gujarat) Total

Project Since 2010 2011

No. of Villages 131 58 189

Total area covered (Ha) 15,000 10,400 25,400

No. of farmers benefitted 3,000 2,600 5,600

No. of farm family members

benefitted

15,000 13,000 28,000

Employment generated (Farm workers) 45,000 40,000 85,000

Capacity (Bales of 165kgs) 35,000 40,000 75,000

Cotton Type Bunny/Brahma Sankar-6(SUP)

BCI at Arvind Limited | Farm Projects


Page 103

From the farm to the fashion industry, Arvind's approach to contract farming is extensive and

thorough.

Arvind plays a key role in every single process involved in this initiative.

Infrastructure and capacity building:

This includes research, collaborations with national & international organizations,

research institutions, etc. strong HR policies, capacity building for extension activities.

Building the right team:

A team of 105 field experts including agronomists, soil scientists, pest and disease

specialist and MSW (for carrying out decent work activities) are put in place.

Training:

Highly qualified agronomists train and educate farmers about crop, nutrient, pest and

disease management, decent work ethics (no child labor, discrimination, gender issues,

etc.) and business models to improve productivity. Guidance material on better

management practices based on Better Cotton Production criteria is developed.

Technology and skill development:

Participatory Technology Development in collaboration with project farmers helps in

finding location-specific solutions.

Monitoring:

Regular farm visits are made. Detailed farm records, soil tests, and constant monitoring

ensure a healthy crop. Validation work on better management practices is carried out.

Elimination:

Middle men are eliminated. Farmers are also introduced to dependable farm input

suppliers.

Assured buy back:

Arvind buys the crop at market prices and guarantees Minimum Support Price. A 'Farm

Gate' payment policy ensures that payments are made within seven working days.

BCI at Arvind Limited | Contract Farming


Page 104

Managing the supply chain:

Arvind Agribusiness maintains a fully tracebale supply-chain and an extensive

management information system. It is involved in establishing an effective producer

organization, the segregation of better cotton, chain of custody procedures and

engagement with ginners and other organizations.

BCI at Arvind Limited | Benefits

A HOLISTIC APPROACH TO CONTRACT

FARMING WHERE THE ECONOMIC, SOCIAL

AND ENVIRONMENTAL

BENEFITS NOT ONLY

CO-EXIST BUT ALSO

AUGMENT EACH

OTHER.


Page 105

Economic benefits

Reduced cost of production: The cost of production is reduced through the

collective purchase of farm inputs and better, economical deals from

suppliers.

Better profitability: The need for middle men has been eliminated as

Arvind ensures that the produce is bought at the farmer's door step.

Better access to affordable finance: Dependence on local moneylenders

has also been reduced as farmers are encouraged to deal with reliable

financial institutions.

Better nutrient, pest and disease management: Better management

practices ensure reduced use of inputs (like synthetic pesticides & fertilizers

), untimely reducing the risk taken in synthetic pesticides handling and

application.

Knowledge sharing and skill development: Farmers receive practical

knowledge on production principles that can decrease the cost of

production and increase profitability.

Qua

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