ine dining

DINING

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

Fine DiningDINING

DINING

wineFine Dining

october 2012

Welcome to Fine Dining

- the place where the world comes

together in Sweden

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contents

3 eDItorIALs

4 notes

7 GÖrGen on HIGH The road has been long and bumpy, but Görgen has finally arrived!

12 WHen tHe coMMUnItY tAKes A breAtHer Mid-October have alw ays been booked in my diary as long as I had one

20 eVerYboDY Is WeLcoMe At tHe VILLA PAULI Down by the waterside in fashionable Djursholm in Stockholm is one of the most spectacular buildings in thedistrict.

24 Art, cULtUre AnD FooD In HArMonYFifteen minutes’ drive from the center of Stockholm out to the archipelago you will find ARTIPELAG

29 HArD breADIn Sweden, 85% of households use crisp bread at home

33 GrAnD centrAL MIX AnD MeetInGsthe barely one-year old Scandic Grand Central Hotel is housed in a beautiful building which is over a hundred years old.

37 AUtUMn cAnDLesWithout having a specific basis for my argument, I believe that the consumption of candles per capita is higher in Sweden than in many other countries.

41 tHe cUbe HAs LAnDeDJust like a UFO, one of the world’s most spectacular pop-up restaurants has landed on the roof of the Royal Opera House in Stockholm.

45 sILJAn sALMonOn the embankment to Österdal älv en, at the point where it flows into Lake Siljan you’ll find the little Dala Siljans Salmon Company

48 onLY tHree MontHs to cHrIstMAs Tyrol’s Wild Christmas is a dining experience beyond the ordinary.

7 33 41 4824

WHo Are tHe cHAîne Des rôtIsseUrsThe Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is an international gastronomic society for both professionals and amateurs , with roots that stretch back to the year 1248. The society is represented in about 70 countries and has more than 25000 members worldwide. From its headquarters in Paris the organization is headed by President Yam Atallah In 1959 the Balliage de la Suéde was founded by amongst others Tore Wretman. In Sweden there are 14 associations, so called Balliage (Bailliwicks) which is individually responsible for its own program of activities. Coordination, administration and international contacts are taken care by a national committee under the leadership of Bailli (Grand Bailiff ) Délègue. One of the society’s strong points is the international membership which allows them to make use of the fantastic network and offers possibilities to take part in any event at all, wherever and whenever over the whole world.

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Autumn Came Quickly This Year

No sooner had the summer faded when autumn made its en-trance, with a full palette of vibrant colors.

Autumn means good stews, wonderful game dinners, warm soups, mouth-watering berries of all kinds and that cozy atmosphere that sneaks up on you as the days get shorter, and more and more candles appear on the table. This year, the summer wasn’t only wet in most parts of Sweden , it was also quite cold. In some places summer didn’t happen at all, which has resulted in a great mushroom harvest.

But autumn also means a lot of other exciting things. For example, the major International Cooking Competitions which will be decided later on in the fall. We wish all of our talented chefs a resounding success in the finals.

This issue of Fine Dining mirrors what’s happening in the lives of our famous top chefs around the country and their newly opened restau-rants. We also pick out a selection of Inns and Bars and, of course, talented producers.

I would also like to extend greetings to the ev-er-growing stream of visitors from all over the world. Here’s hoping you have a pleasant and eventful autumn.

.

eDItorIAL

oVe cAneMYr

Editor-in-Chief www.finedining.se

PS Let us know about friends and acquaintances who you think would like to receive a copy of Fine Dining.

eDItor In cHIeF Ove Canemyr

ove.canemyr@trendsetter.seFine Dining/Trendsetter Box 24013,

104 50 Stockholm

eDItorIALAnne-Marie Canemyr,Carl Wachtmeister

Catarina OffeChaîne des Rôtisseurs

Art DIrectorSophie L Slettengren sophie@bydesign.se

enGLIsH coPYRoger Brett

Broadart@tele2.se

Would you like to be associated in Fine Dining? Tell us about your

products or services. Newly opened or new designs,

new foodstuffs and so on. Contact: ove.canemyr@trendsetter.se

+46 70 794 09 87

Cover photo: Anne-Marie Canermyr

Operabaren, Stockholm

Welcome to Fine Dining

It is perfectly acceptable to forward Fine Dining to friends and acquain-

tances that are interested in Fine Dining.

Let us know about interesting events, meetings and so on at ove.canemyr@trendsetter.se

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fine diningnotes

YoUnG cHeF oF tHe YeAr coMPetItIonconcours International des Jeunes chefs rôtisseurs

the Decision:

Luqaz from Sweden was Chef´s own favouriteLuqaz Ottosson from 50 Squares Restaurant and Little Bjärs Farm on Gotland competed with 21 other young chefs from around the world.

Luqaz was the chef’s own favourite but the three main prizes were won by Germany, France and South Africa. Christine from Germany was one of four female participants who all performed very well. They undou-btedly put in a lot of training beforehand.

Luqaz was still pleased with his effort, particularly his main course and dessert, and his was one of the most organized kitchens. During the competition, one team consis-ting of ten chefs, emerged as the Top Team. Luqaz says. “It was a real pleasure to taste their dishes.”

Daniel Hiltbrunner, one of the judges from Australia, along with seven other world refe-rees, had the challenging and delicate task of designating the first, second and third prize winners.

The contest was held in Berlin and was based on a basket containing the fol-lowing secret produce: tuna, shrimp, rack of lamb, blueberries and raspberries as well a selection of mandatory ingredients.

Luqaz´s menu:

• Tuna Carpaccio with comfit of shrimp in brown butter, served with a tangy salad of lemon, lime and celery;

• Lamb fillet with crispy coating served with cream of charlottes;

• Smokey carrots and oven baked tomatoes;

• Citrus pannacotta with chocolate ganache, lingonberries and burnt white chocolate

Luqaz will now return to the autumn season at Little Bjärs Farm. When the busi-ness closes for the season he will go abroad. With his new friends and contacts Luqaz can expect to be well received in at least 21 countries worldwide. When chefs from around the world meet and socialize during five intense days of coo-king great friendships are often formed.

The Concours International des Jeunes Chefs Rôtisseurs has been held every year for the last 35, organised by the International Association Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. Participating chefs may not be older than 27 at the time of the contest. The next National Competition will held in March while the International Competition is scheduled for September 2013.

WALLMAn´s AGAIn Teatergatan 3, right behind the Grand Hotel in Stockholm, is an address with quite a history. Back in 1875 this was the venue of the Swedish Theatre and has remained an entertainment esta-blishment, albeit in various guises. The Atlantis nightclub, Stockholm’s answer to Studio 54 in New York, operated here during the 80’s. In the early 90’s Wallman´s Stockholm opened with a high quality entertainment concept,

which featured a supper club and sur-prise guest artists. Wallman Stock-holm also created a new international show restaurant in collaboration with the acclaimed international design firm Concrete. On the waterfront in the Blasieholmen area, crowded as it is with famous neighbors like Strand Ho-tel, Grand Hotel, Lydmar Hotel, Mathias Dahlgren’s restaurants and the restau-rant B.A.R., Wallman has made a great contribution to the development of this rediscovered part of central Stockholm with a lounge that welcomes both lo-cals and tourists.

Fine Wines very own homepage

w w w.f inewine.nu Here you’ll find the last 4 editions of Fine Wine

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VIsIt Us At FAcebooK

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tHe neW stALLMästAreGårDen Stallmästaregården’s kitchen and dining room are now tip-top after an extensive renovation. The focus is on the personal touch and making guests feel at home in the newly decorated restaurant. The goal is to create a timeless elegance with a rustic touch that fits Stallmästaregården’s long history as a functioning highway Inn since the 1600s.

Today’s modern restaurant is quite contemporary within the historic environment. The color scheme is warm, the old rafters have been emphasised and the new woodwork with modern furniture has created a pleasant and inviting feeling. Small details such as linen tablecloths and napkins have been carefully chosen. A new focus has also been placed on the food and menu.

“We want to retain the classic approach to food but with a contemporary Nordic emphasis,” says Anders Janson, MD. “I am incredibly proud of the kitchen’s trans-formation and the newly-refurbished dining room and look forward to welcoming our guests.”

Chef Tom Fredriksson is cooking in the spirit of his famous predecessors Tore Wretman, and Werner Vögeli, who in his time was a great innovator.

“Even though we have all the modern technology at our disposal, we still try to cook like we did before. Salting, drying, smoking, cooking, using straw and moss – these are techniques we often use,” explains Chef Tom Fredriksson.

stUreHoF Gets A neW ItALIAn

Besides the gigantic poster, the corner of Sturegatan and Humlegårdsgatan in downtown Stockholm, it is pretty much secret. It’s obvious that there is an Ita-lian-inspired restaurant there with inte-riors designed by Jonas Bohlin but in addition to this there will be fine dining, grocery stores and a florist.

WoULD YoU L IKe to HAVe YoUr oWn IssUe oF F Ine D In InG In YoUr e -MA I L - Free oF cHArGe?PLeAse GIVe Us An e-MAIL to Anne-MArIe.cAneMYr@trenDsetter.se

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tHe tAste oF DALArnA (tHe sWeDIsH DALes)Available both in English and German, the book is about the idyllic Dalarna, with text by Bo Massey on his odyssey across the unique landscape of the Swedish Dales. Together with chef Görgen, they give their interpretation of classic Dalacar-lian gastronomy. The book has a personal touch and promotes the use of local produce.

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MUsHrooMs, trUFFLes AnD LIcHen AnD PHotosThis is the theme of the autumn menu at Mathias Dahlgren’s dining room at the Grand Hotel in Stockholm. It of-fers five dishes as an alternative to the longer menu. The focus is on nature’s kitchen, and in particular pro-duce that is seasonal.

“We want to offer something new and exciting to our guests while at the same time challenging ourselves,” says Mathias Dahlgren.

The dining room is one of only two Swedish restaurants that have two Michelin stars.Photo artworks adorn the walls and are linked to the main menu theme. The photos were taken by Magnus Skoglöf the photographer who pho-tographed the dishes in Mathias´s amazing cookbook ‘The Natural Cui-sine’.

notes

GotLAnD trUFFLesThe Gotland Truffle Association was formed in 2000, originally for the benefit of Gotland truffle growers. Nowadays the association is open to all with an interest in Gotland truffles. The association also provides information about Gotland truffles, and assists members in the development of truffle products. It also offers training in truffle cultivation and tips on searching for truffles with the help of dogs.

Truffles grow in the subsoil, in symbiosis with a tree. When it’s ripe it emits a very distinct odour making it easy for dogs, or even better, truffle-hunting pigs, with their delicate sense of smell, to locate them. A good truffle pig can home in on a ripe truffle which might be several metres below the surface. Since truffles are a delicacy even for the pigs, there may be a bit of a contest about who should get the prize! Amongst the dogs used for truffle hunting is the Italian Lagotto Romag-nolo breed, with their excellent ability to sniff out the truffles.

Truffles are very sensitive to heat and truffle recipes ensure that the truffles are not exposed to temperatures higher than about 80 degrees. The trick is to add the truffle at the end of the cooking process. For the ultimate taste experience the simpler the preparation the better. The black truffle is referred to as the black diamond and its taste is highly prized by gourmets.

MY KItcHenScandinavia’s largest food fair “My Kitchen” is being held for the fourteenth time in a row at the Stockholm International Fairs from the 8th-11th November. It offers tastings, new recipe ideas, cookbooks, food magazines and a very popular stage show. A feature of the show is the Chef’s Basket where our Swedish Chefs’ elite will each prepare a dish based upon the theme Memorable Cuisine. Visitors to the fair can book and enjoy all the good things on offer. In addition to this visitors will have a chance to sample wine and enjoy direct contact with all of the exhibiting wine merchants, a feature that is highly appreciated and enjoyed by both visitors and wine merchants.

Fine Wines very own homepage

w w w.f inewine.nu Here you’ll find the last 4 editions of Fine Wine

VIsIt Us At FAcebooK

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GÖrGen on HIGHPICTURE O TExT CATARINA OFFE

Görgen thought that the chefs, in their tall hats looked pret-

ty cool and decided he wanted to be like them. He approached the ‘Cellar Master’ and asked for an apprenticeship.

“Get your hair cut and come back tomorrow,” was the answer. And ever since then Görgen has been true to his calling, a faithful kitchen man. In his own words he was jumping about all over the place, here and abroad, until Juer-

ForMer AsPIrInG concrete WorKer GÖrGen tIMe Is noW best KnoWn As GÖrGen on HIGH. tHe roAD HAs been LonG

AnD bUMPY, bUt GÖrGen HAs FInALLY ArrIVeD! AFter reALIzInG tHAt WorKInG WItH concrete WAs not For HIM GÖrGen

WorKeD As A cLeAner At tHe tHen stAr HoteL In soLLentUnA. tHe HoteL WAs neWLY bUILt, WeLL-KnoWn AnD FreqUent-

gen Grossmann told him to come to Gässlingen. Three years later they founded the GQ restaurant in Stockholm. It is quite obvious that Jürgen has had a profound ef-fect on Görgen in his career as a chef. The only thing that bothered him was that his family life was suffering. With their third child on the way the family decided it was time for a change.

“I worked my way through two children, and I was determined

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that it wouldn’t happen a third time!” So Görgen and his wife Carolinne and the children made their way to Rättvik where Caro-linne had family connections in Lersdals höjden, a conference centre. It is here that Görgen created his ‘Görgen’s Heights’. Conference delegates could en-joy Görgens food, characterized by local produce. “But I wanted the atmosphere and the environment too,” says Görgen. This desire resulted in a move to Brown Farm which

“bUt I WAnteD tHe

AtMosPHere AnD tHe

enVIronMent too,”

sAYs GÖrGen.

he now owns, together with Caro-linne and Urban Svensson. The latter is an advertising executive who takes care of marketing, ad-ministration and other necessary tasks which Görgen finds tedious! The Brown Farm, which dates back to 1868, with it’s broad vis-tas stretching out across the lake where you can inhale the Swed-ish Dales culture everywhere you look. The old timber Bjursås el-ementary school next door to the Inn is now a small guesthouse

with 19 rooms. Görgen was hop-ing the move would allow for more quality family time. Well there wasn’t much more free time, but the quality was right! Up here you say yes to everything, says Görgen, and the not so profitable lunch operations led on to other business. From Vasaloppet Cater-ing to local celebrations and even funerals. Most of the Dales busi-nesses use Görgen.

“I get more varied work now than I had in Stockholm,” says Görgen,

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and mentions guest appearances in Florence’s beautiful Palaccio Vec-cio where he and fellow chef KC Wallberg from Skansen served Dalacarlian delicacies to two hun-dred guests. “Soon I’ll be going to Tuscany for a guest appearances with Jürgen Grossmann. The Chef’s Night concept is a Tidé-nian invention. Görgen contacted many of his chef buddies, Jürgen Grossmann, of course, Victor Angmo in Dala Husby, and sev-eral others. Together they invited guests to dine on thirteen dishes and eleven wines and it was a howling success. The goal is to make Chef’s Night a bi-annual event, maybe even incorporating GQ. Now that’s something to look forward to!

Görgen is good friends with all of the local producers who supply him. “The broccoli is good to go,” the vegetable grower tells him and Görgen is there like a shot. That evening freshly harvested brocco-li is on the diners’ plates. The fol-lowing week it’s time to harvest zucchini flowers and order un-pasteurised butter from Live Fä-bodar Groceries. On another day it will be blueberries and mush-rooms that take pride of place o the menu. “Last year I bought 200 kg of wild mushrooms and eleven kilograms of wild straw-berries,” Görgen recalls . Görgen buys his meat exclusively from Siljan Chark. “They are very reli-able, knowledgeable, curious and innovative,” says Görgen.

Görgen’s food is simplicity itself, but it doesn’t taste like that. Some people have thought his food is a bit weird but it’s actually just the opposite. It tastes like it should taste. Görgen’s local tasting menu is a selection of Dalarna’s best raw produce and on his ‘Not en-tirely local menu’ there are addi-tions such as truffles, scallops and French unpasteurised cheeses.

GÖrGen’s FooD Is sIMPLIcItY ItseLF, bUt It Doesn’t tAste LIKe tHAt.

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“Locals do not always want to eat locally,” explains Görgen.

“Then we have our own cured ham,” says Görgen, “but its all gone!” he adds, when he sees the expectant look on my face. Along with Bo Masser, Görgen wants to breed their own pigs on a diet of chestnuts, root vegetables, ap-ples and pears. The hams will be just as delicious and exclusive as those from Parma in Italy or the black foot Spanish pig, but with added Swedish flavour. ■

GÖrGen’s LocAL tAstInG MenU Is A seLectIon oF DALArnA’s best rAW ProDUce AnD on HIs ‘not entIreLY LocAL MenU’

“LocALs Do not ALWAYs WAnt to eAt LocALLY,” eXPLAIns GÖrGen.

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JULBORD PÅ ARTIPELAG!Upplev god mat och konst i storslagen skärgårdsmiljö. Klassisk svensk julbords-buffé i Restaurang Baggen komponerat av kökschef Fredrik Björlin, lagkapten iSvenska Kocklandslaget.

http://www.artipelag.se/sv/restaurang

Välkommen att boka på tel 08-570 130 50 eller restaurang@artipelag.se

Artipelagstigen 1 | 134 40 Gustavsbergwww.artipelag.se

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WHen tHe coMMUnItY tAKes A breAtHerWORDS & PICTURES : CARL WACHMEISTER

As FAr bAcK As I cAn reMeMber It HAs been tHere, FroM A VerY YoUnG AGe rIGHt UP to toDAY. A coUPLe oF DAYs In

MID-october HAVe ALWAYs been booKeD In MY DIArY As LonG As I HAD one AnD It’s UsUALLY on A tHUrsDAY AnD FrI-

DAY. A coUPLe oF DAYs to see FAMILY AnD FrIenDs, botH neW AnD oLD. AnD HoPeFULLY It GIVes Us A tAstY ADDItIon to

oUr tAbLe. WHAt AM I tALKInG AboUt? HUntInG eLK!

”VI sKA HÖJA KÖKet än Mer ocH bLI

sVerIGes bästA VärDsHUs”,

What used to be considered a rural pastime, hunting has

now taken a step into the big city. Somewhat surprisingly, most of to-day’s hunters live in the cities. The reason why is not something we need to dwell on here, but one of the knock-on effects of this is that because this used to be a rural pas-time, some employment opportu-nities in the countryside are being

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lost. The impact is still felt much more out in the country and prob-ably mainly in the north. In some cases schools are closed and many public services in the municipality and county are temporarily discon-tinued. For country folk, every-body gets involved in the hunt in some way or other, regardless of age and it presents a welcome con-tribution to the household budget in the form of meat.

My own experience comes mostly from hunting elk in Blekinge down in the south of the country. In short, what this means is that a number of

WHen soMetHInGIs sHot, It Is coLLecteD AnD tAKen DIrectLYto tHe AbAttoIr.

hunters are placed at well-chosen positions, usually along the edge of a piece of land. On the other side are a series of beaters whose mission is to drive the animals to-wards the hunters. This is achieved by making a lot of noise. It’s an ex-cellent opportunity to try out those new drinking ditties or anything else that would normally scare the daylights of ones surround-ings! The chain of beaters is usu-ally composed of diverse family, relatives and friends interspersed with some talented hunter to keep the whole thing together. The latter job is not easy with such a motley crew.

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It’s not unknown for a beater to suddenly become silent and get left behind. The reason? As a rule it’s usually mushrooms, lots of mush-rooms. The sleeves of jackets and shirts are knotted so they can hold as much of the delicious fungi as possible. The ability to read a map and find one’s way in the forest also varies. It often happens that someone who starts off to the far right of the drive ends up far out on the left wing. It became much easier to keep track of ones forces when hunting radios were intro-duced.

It is worth mentioning that safety always comes first and it goes with-out saying that the noisier it gets, the closer you are to the shooters. Rule number one for a shooter is that you never need to regret a shot you never fired. This means that you must be 200% certain before you shoot. This is something that everyone in the chain understands

and appreciates. When something is shot, it is collected and taken di-rectly to the abattoir.

What to shoot at during the hunt depends on the local rules. In our case, it varies wildly depending on availability. Nowadays elk, red deer and fallow deer are on the menu. And occasionally, wild boar.

What happens to the meat de-pends on various things. Some of it is sold to game retailers, some of it is kept and butchered on site in anticipation of it eventually ending up in the pot. If it’s to be frozen then it’s labeled with the animal, the cut and the year it was shot. The logistics involved in running a shoot are considerable - everything from the chain of beaters right down to the freezer.

What do you do if you can’t find a friendly hunter who isn’t prepared

It Is WortH MentIonInG tHAt sAFetY ALWAYs coMes FIrst

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to share his treasures? Don’t de-spair because there are many tal-ented wildlife traders who are dot-ted around the country. I went to my good friend Edward of B. An-dersson Bird & Wildlife in Öster-malmshallen in Stockholm. He, if anyone, should be able to give me some help along the way. Edward began working as a chef more than 20 years ago. Roughly 10 years lat-er he joined B Andersson and took over the store. As the name im-plies, they sell wild fowl and veni-son. The most popular is reindeer. Östermalm’s food hall right in the middle of Stockholm city stocks mostly fillet and topside which ends up in customers’ shopping bags. High quality chicken, pheas-

ant and duck are of course also available. They also try to broaden taste horizons in the form of white truffles, which has turned out to be very popular. Every year there are a few large specimens on display in a glass showcase.

Edward finds it a little disappoint-ing that many of the old traditions are disappearing. He mentions the Crayfish premiere and Whitsun. Although these festivals are not directly associated with game & fowl they did give a hefty boost to the figures when the people who were queuing to buy crabs would spill over into neighboring stores as well. Nowadays it is barely no-ticeable. Catering helps to boost

WHAt Do YoU Do IF YoU cAn’t FInD A FrIenDLY HUnter WHo Isn’t PrePAreD to sHAre HIs treAsUres? Don’t DesPAIr becAUse tHere Are MAnY tALenteD WILDLIFe trADers WHo Are DotteD AroUnD tHe coUntrY.

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business. Most of that is cooked in their own kitchen in the basement of the food hall.

When we get onto the subject of hunting, Edward has a couple of queries directed at the huntsmen. Even though it has improved in re-cent years, there are still large gaps in commodity management. The time taken to get the game butch-ered, packed and frozen is much too long which can often affect the quality. He finds it disappointing that wild boar isn’t more popular, possibly because many have tried and tasted dry cooked meat that comes from an old animal. If they tried piglets instead, that would probably change their opinion. And the best way to prepare elk

meat? On the whole it is lean and tasty but a good sauce and some fresh vegetables on the side make a good accompaniment. After the hunt there is usually a hunt dinner that same evening. But we’ll re-turn to this in part 2 of this article. So far, we have transported the elk from the forest into the deep freeze. Next time we take it from the kitchen onto the plate. ■

FActs AboUt eLK & HUntInG eLKThe elk is the largest of the deer family and are found in northern Europe, Asia and North America. A fully-grown bull, which is larger than the cow, can grow up to 230 cm at the withers and weigh 700kg. In a good year Sweden has at most about 400,000 elk, of which just over 100,000 are brought down in the autumn. The elk causes about 5,000 road accidents a year. They can also cause major damage to forestry.

In Sweden there are approximately 300,000 licensed huntsmen, many of whom hunt the elk. The hunt is primarily for recreational purposes, but also for culling the population. With such a large number of felled elk there is of course, a large amount of meat which is mostly kept by the hunters them-selves.

There are different ways of conducting the hunt - using dogs, stalking, with beaters and from camouflaged hides. How the hunt is conducted is dependent on how much land there is to hunt on and how many people are taking part in the hunt. In Sweden the elk hunting season begins in September or October, depending upon where in the country they are hunting.

AnD tHe best WAY to PrePAre eLK MeAt? on tHe WHoLe It Is LeAn AnD tAstY bUt A GooD sAUce AnD soMe FresH VeGetAbLes on tHe sIDe MAKe A GooD AccoMPAnIMent.

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VårA MeDLeMMAr

Altia Sweden ABBox 271 44, 115 28 Stockholm115 28 StockholmTel +46 (8) -557 790 00Email: firstname.lastname@altiacorporation.comHomepage: www.altia.se Arcus Sweden ABBirger Jarlsgatan 20114 34 StockholmTel +46 (8) -545 534 30Fax +46 (8)-545 534 39Email: info@arcussweden.seHomepage: www.arcus.no Arvid Nordquist Vin och SprithandelEkensbergsvägen 117Box 1285171 25 SolnaTel: +46 (8)-799 18 00Fax: +46 (8)-29 60 99Email: info@arvid-nordquist.seHomepage: www.arvid-nordquist.se Bacardi ABWallingatan 2111 60 StockholmTel: 0+46 (8) - 566 480 00E:mail: info-sweden@bacardi.com,Homepage: www.bacardi.se Backafallsbyn AB/ Spirits of HvenNorreborgsvägen 55260 13 Sankt IbbTel: +46 (418) 44 99 99Homepage: www.backafallsbyn.se, www.hven.se Berntson BrandsTorsgatan 13111 23 StockholmTel: +46 (8)-610 06 90Fax: +46 (8)-610 06 99Email: info@berntsonbrands.seHomepage: www.berntsonbrands.se

BibendumSandhamnsgatan 63115 28 StockholmTel: +46 (8)-598 110 00Email: info@bibendum.seHomepage: www.bibendum.se Bornicon & Salming ABHolländargatan 17111 60 StockholmTel: +46 (8)-32 02 20Fax: +46 (8)-32 02 10Homepage: www.bornicon-salming.se Caro Vin ABIndustrigatan 2 b, plan 7112 46 StockholmTel +46 (8)-651 09 95Fax +46 (8)-651 09 96Homepage: www.carovin.se Cezar GroupMargaretetorp266 98 HjärnarpTel: +46 (431)-45 46 20Fax: +46 (431)-45 46 44Homepage: www.cezargroup.com Concha Y ToroBirger Jarlsgatan 2114 34 StockholmTel: +48 (8)- 505 667 60Fax: +46 (8)- 505 65 299Email: info@conchytoro.euHomepage: www.cytsweden.se DIAGEO SWEDEN ABSt Eriksgatan 46ABox 49 1591oo 29 StockholmTel: +46 (8)-508 820 00Fax: +46 (8)-729 00 49Homepage: www.diageo.com Darom AB Spirits & LiqueursElbegatan 4-6211 20 Malmö

Tel: +46 (40) 782 50Homepage: www.darom.se Domaine Wines & Spirits ABHolländargatan 20111 60 StockholmTel: +46 (8)-20 61 00Homepage: www.domaine.se Edrington Sweden ABLuntmakargtan 45102 47 StockholmTel: +46 (8)-440 83 00Fax: +46 (8)-20 87 80Email: info@edrington.seHomepage: www.edrington.se Fondberg SwedenLinnégatan 87D115 23 Stockholm StockholmTel: +46 (8)- 555 292 00Homepage: www.fondberg.se Grythyttan WhiskyEkeberg705 98 Lillkyrka Tel: +46 (19) 761 79 00Email: info@grythyttanwhisky.comHomepage: www.grythyttanwhisky.se Giertz Vinimport ABBredgränd 2111 30 StockholmTel: +46 (8)-21 83 88Fax: +46 (8)-21 33 82Email: info@giertz.seHomepage: www.giertz.se Granqvist Vinagentur ABVulcanön, Vulcans Väg 1522 30 TIDAHOLMTel: +46 (502)-148 88Fax: +46 (502)-158 88Email: info@granqvist-vin.seHomepage: www.granqvist-vin.se

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Heba Food and Beverages ABBox 142372 22 RonnebyTel: +46 (457)-240 85Fax: +46(457)-206 20Email: info@heba.seHomepage: www.heba.se HeeringRegeringsgatan 111Box 73 27, 103 90, StockholmTel: +(8) 412 60 40Homepage: www.heering.com Hermansson & CoBirger Jarlsgatan 55Box 72 45, 103 83 StockholmTel: +46 (8)-587 410 80Fax: +46 (8)-587 410 89Email: info@hermansson.seHomepage: www.hermanssonco.se Juvinum ABFrihamnen, Magasin 6, uppg 2, 4 tr115 56 StockholmTel: +46 (8)-663 18 81Fax: +46 (8)-663 18 83Email: juvinumab@telia.com Kanon ABSågkärrsvägen 20647 51 Åkers Stycke brukTel: 0159-800 300Hemsida: www.gripsholmdistillery.comE-post: info@kanonab.se Kiviks Musteri ABKarakås277 35 KivikTel: +46 (414) - 719 00Email:info@kivikmusteri.seHomepage: www.akessonvin.se, www.kiviksmusteri.se Klunk ABPrinz väg 19142 66 TrångsundTel: +46 (8)-510 691 00Email:info@klunk.seHomepage: www.klunk.se

Mackmyra Svensk WhiskyHantverkargatan 5, hus 5112 21 StockholmTel: +46 (8)-5560 25 80Email: info@mackmyra.seHomepage: www.mackmyra.se

Malmköpings Nya SpritbolagLandsvägsgatan 3642 60 MalmköpingTel: +46 157 201 90Email: olof.langbeck@malmasb.seHomepage: www.malmasb.se Miguel Torres Sverige ABKungsgatan 87112 27 StockholmTel: +46 (8)-545 833 91Homepage: www.torres.se Modern Wines ABMagasin 2, frihamnen115 56 StockholmTel +46 (8)-10 33 66Fax +46 (8)-10 65 60Email: info@modernwines.comHomepage: www.modernwines.se NO1 BrandsGetingevägen 12461 65 TrollhättanTel +46 (520)-48 05 40Fax +46 (520)- 48 05 44Email: info@no1.seHomepage: www.no1.se

NIGABEnergigatan 12Box 10296434 23 KungsbackaTel: +46 (300)-180 20Fax: +46 (300)-121 53Email: info@nigab.seHomepage: www.nigab.se Oenoforos ABIndustrigatan 2b, plan 7112 46 StockholmTel: +46 (8)-651 09 95Fax: +46 (8)-651 09 96Email: info@oenoforos.seHomepage: www.oenoforos.se

Pernod Ricard Sweden ABYnglingagatan 18, 1 trBox 19176104 32 StockholmTel: +46 (8)-555 201 00Fax: +46 (8)-555 201 01Email: info@pernod-ricard-sweden.comHomepage:www.pernod-ricard-sweden.com

PhilipsonSöderbergSandhamnsgatan 62115 28 StockholmTel: +46 (8)- 598 112 00Email: info@philipsonsoderberg.seHomepage: www.philipsonsoderberg.se Prime Wine SwedenSödra Hamnvägen 9, Hus K, Frihamnen115 56 StockholmTel: +46 (8)-679 52 00Fax: +46 (8)-679 52 13Email: info@primewine.seHomepage: www.primewine.se Purity Vodka ABKansligatan 1B211 22 MalmöTel: +46 (40) 20 47 60Homepage: www.purityvodka.com Saturnus ABBronsyxegatan 11Box 9040200 39 MalmöTel: +46 (40)-671 19 00Fax: +46 (40)-671 19 39Email: info@saturnus.seHomepage: www.saturnus.se Stellan Kramer ABRinkebyvägen 15182 36 DanderydTel: +46 (8)-544 905 90Fax: +46 (8)-544 905 99Email: info@kramer.seHomepage: www.kramer.se

Spitis of Gold ABBox 7350103 90 StockholmTel: +46 (8) 660 32 10Email: info@spiritsofgold.comHomepage: www.spiritsofgold.com The Absolute companyÅrsta Ängsväg 19 A117 97 StockholmTel: +46 (8)- 744 73 53Homepage: www.absolut.com

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Treasury Wine EstateBirger Jarlsgatan 55111 45 StockholmTel: +46 (8)- 696 96 00Homepage: www.twegolbal.com

VinUnic ABRegeringsgatan 109Box 7471, 114 44 StockholmTel: +46 (8)-660 84 15Fax: +46 (8)-660 84 53Email: info@vinunic.seHomepage: www.vinunic.se

Wineworks ABMalmgårdsvägen 63Box 115 41, 100 61 StockholmTel: +46 (8)- 55 1108 26Email: everyone@wineworks.seHomepage: www.wineworks.se

LAtest neWs AboUt orDerAbLe beVerAGesEach issue of Fine Wine gives a summary of the latest news on Systembolaget’s stock, available to order.

Here is the current list of fine wines right now:

GrAnqVIst VInAGentUr74226-02 Château Raymond-Lafon 2002, Château Raymond-Lafon 322 kr73769-01 Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. « I Scriani », Az.Agr, « Scriani » 349 kr73287-01 Losada, Losada Vinos de Finca, SA 169 kr76240-01 Krohn Porto 20 Anos, Wiese & Krohn, Sucrs, LDA 319 kr

GrYtHYttAn WHIsKYChampagne Esterlin7769801, Esterlin Exclusif, 387 kr7769901 Esterlin Blanc de Blancs, 435 kr7772201 Esterlin Rosé, 423 kr7772301 Esterlin Cléo, 596 kr7772301 Esterlin Cléo Rosé, 774 kr

FonDberG74515-01 Jakob Jung Erbach Hohenrein Riesling Alte Reben 2010, Rheingau. 149 :-73592-01 Sancerre Les Romains 2010, Sancerre Domaine Vacheron 299 :-75136-01 Beaune Premier Cru Clos du Roy 2008, Nicolas Rossignol 319 :-74166-01 Barolo Serralunga 2006 , Ferdinando Principiano 289 :-

PernoD rIcArD sWeDen AbArt 72748 Chablis Premier Cru Montmains AOC, Domaine du Chardonnay 169 SEK Art 83891 Dom. du Vieux Lazaret, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Famille Quiot 94 SEKArt 85952 Ysios Reserva, Ysios 99 SEKArt 73236 Jacob’s Creek St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, Orlando Wines 299 SEKArt 73239 Jacob’s Creek Johann Shiraz Cabernet, Orlando Wines 450 SEKArt 73237 Jacob’s Creek Reeves Point Chardonnay, Orlando Wines 229 SEKArt 71295 Jacob’s Creek Steingarten Riesling, Orlando Wines 229 SEKArt 72508 1865 Syrah Limited Edition, Viña San Pedro 239 SEK

PrIMe WIne73817-01 Reyneke Reserve Reyneke 359kr73337-01 Onkaparinga Grenache Clarendon Hills 499kr 75258-01 Querciabella Chianti Classico 2009 199kr72547-01 Rijk´s The Masters 2007 299kr72636-01 Bodegas La Horra Corimbo 1 2009 449kr72636-01 Dalle Vigne Da Vinci Brunello di Montalcino 299kr

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eVerYboDY Is WeLcoMe At tHe VILLA PAULIWORDS: CATARINA OFFE, PICTURES: CATARINA OFFE / OLA HEDIN

DoWn bY tHe WAtersIDe In FAsHIonAbLe DJUrsHoLM In stocKHoLM Is one oF tHe Most sPectAcULAr bUILDInGs In tHe

DIstrIct. tHe 2,000-sqUAre-Foot MAnsIon WAs DesIGneD bY rAGnAr ÖstberG In 1907 AnD WAs orIGInALLY A PrIVAte resI-

Dence For AnnA PAULI AnD Her FIVe cHILDren. AnnA WAs tHe DAUGHter oF J.W sMItt, WHo WAs ALFreD nobeL´s PArtner.

In 1968 tHe HoUse WAs AcqUIreD bY tHe orDer oF eLIsAbetH sIsters AnD becAMe A conVent.

The beautiful, but considered by some to be sinful, murals

were covered over with cloth. Fortunately the nuns didn’t paint over them. The convent used to run a Sunday school for Djur-sholm’s toddlers, and there are many who can remember the nuns walking with the little ones in a single file. One old Djursholm resident remembers with a shud-der how the nuns used to take all the children out onto the frozen Askrike Bay.

In 1985, property magnate Birger Gustavsson, who was at that time one of Sweden’s richest men, bought the Villa Pauli and carried out a very upscale renovation. He converted Villa Pauli to an exclu-sive members’ club, one of North-ern Europe’s few remaining. At the time of Birger’s untimely de-

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mise in 1991 there was a property crisis in Sweden and Villa Pauli was sold to the bank.

Despite this business continued as before, and in 1998 was bought by Arnfinn Röste, a successful entre-preneur in the cell phone industry. Up until then, the Villa had always been surrounded by a certain mys-tique because it had not been open to the general public. But now the restaurant, the beautiful ban-queting area and the sixteen hotel rooms can be visited and enjoyed by everyone.

The beautiful Djursholm´s s Chapel is just a stone’s throw away from the Villa Pauli, which makes it the perfect place to hold weddings, feasts and other large

gatherings . The cosy interior is also suitable for small intimate dinners with famous chefs mak-ing guest appearances there.

Generally, it’s chef Jennifer Bark-er who presides over the renovat-ed state-of-the-art kitchen. “If the staff feel good then the food we’re going to serve will be amazingly well-prepared,” says Jennifer. “We will do everything we can to offer our foreign guests a taste of Swedish food at its best.”

The villa is run by the newly ap-pointed CEO Felix Jondal. “I’m back here again,” he says. As a child he was in the care of the nuns but remembers spending most of his time in the ‘sin corner’! Fol-lowing his studies at hotel school in Switzerland, he has worked for a chain of international luxury

noW tHe restAUrAnt, tHe beAUtIFUL bAnqUetInG AreA AnD tHe sIXteen HoteL rooMs cAn be VIsIteD AnD enJoYeD bY eVerYone.

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hotels which includes the Shan-gri-La and Four Seasons. “Villa Pauli is a major challenge,” says Felix. “Here I am a big cog in a little wheel, before I was a small cog in a big wheel,” he explains.

Villa Pauli also has a distin-guished wine and champagne cel-lar that contains many rarities. It is well stocked and managed, and included in the wine list is a bottle of the mighty ‘Nebuchadnezzar’ - a large bottle of wine which holds fifteen litres. Cocktails are also served and it is possible to hold private dinners for small groups.

“Now Villa Pauli marches on to a new era of greatness!” say Jen-nifer and Felix unison. And Arnfinn nods in agreement. ■

“noW VILLA PAULI MArcHes on to A neW erA oF GreAtness!” sAY JennIFer AnD FeLIX UnIson. AnD ArnFInn noDs In AGreeMent.

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tHe sWeDIsH WIne MArKet HAs DoUbLeD sInce tHe 90s tHe sWeDIsH WIne MArKet Is one oF tHe WorLD’s Most DeMAnDInG AnD cUrrentLY HAs An estIMAteD VALUe oF AboUt

15 bILLIon eUros. MAnY WIne ProDUcers AroUnD tHe WorLD Use tHe sWeDIsH MArKet As A test ArenA For Its ProDUcts.

Generally speaking there is an ever increasing interest

in fine wines, both on the retail and the auction in recent years. A phenomenon that is essentially global in nature.Bordeaux is still the largest indi-vidual area of origin on the auc-tion market, with an average of 70-80% share in Sweden, how-ever other areas are also increas-ing their share:This increased interest is reflect-ed in Burgundy and Southern France, as well as Spain, Italy and Australia.

The interest in Champagne is still at a high level and auction prices tend to be higher on the Swed-ish auction market by compari-son to other international arenas. Other categories are internation-ally comparable, in terms of both quality and willingness of buyers.

Malt whiskey is hot. This is par-ticularly noticeable amongst all the whiskey brands and whiskey clubs around Sweden. Even on the manufacturer side, this is a phenomenon that has gained mo-mentum here in Sweden. At the present time there are a number of established whiskey distilleries.

The quality of the items that will be called out in September are on the whole of a consistently high quality and fully comparable in-ternationally. The September auc-tion is the first of at least three that are planned for the autumn 2012. Each event is spread over three days and published on the Internet a week before the auction. In Sep-tember, around 450 items will go under the hammer. Between 24th and 26th September, starting at 13.00 hrs. . It is particularly inter-esting to be able to offer a larger variety of American cult wines on the third day, 26th September. The wines are all from the same vendor, namely, Nordic Light

Hotel in Stockholm. They have been stored professionally since purchase and are all in very good condition.

Otherwise there are many great lots of Bordeaux represented, of both older and younger vintages. For example, the 1949 Ch Cheval Blanc, the boxes Ch Haut Brion 1990 and 1995 Ch Lynch-Bages and 1996 Carruades Lafite. In ad-dition to this there will be another lot of very fine Burgundy wines, all of the highest quality. ■

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Art, cULtUre AnD FooD In HArMonYPHOTO: ANNE-MARIE CANEMYR

ArtIPeLAG – A WorD WItH tAste

FIFteen MInUtes’ DrIVe FroM tHe center oF stocKHoLM oUt to tHe ArcHIPeLAGo YoU WILL FInD ArtIPeLAG WrAPPeD In

nAtUre’s eMbrAce on tHe beAUtIFUL IsLAnD oF VärMDÖ ALonGsIDe bAGGens bAY.

If you come by boat the marina has approximately 20 over-

night moorings for guests. If you prefer, come by bus or car and take a different route on the return journey to Stockholm and visit the new permanent art exhibition Artipelag.

From the jetty you can walk up a winding wooden pathway through unspoilt countryside up to the main building. On the way you’ll

see sculptures exhibited outdoors set against a natural backdrop, as well as other works of art. Fi-nally you come to a terrace that has been very busy throughout the summer. The dining area has an extraordinary view of the beauti-ful archipelago and Baggens Bay. It isn’t only the patio and bistro on the ground floor that has been busy.

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For the four months that they’ve been open, the Art Hall, has been visited by no less than 40,000 paying guests, many of them from abroad, who have been to the ARTIPELAG once and have re-turned, bringing others with them. We don’t know how many guests have stayed and enjoyed the food at both of the restaurants, but in the kitchen at Restaurant Baggen they’ll tell you with pride that the number is even greater than the museum visits to the exhibition.In addition to the art exhibitions

on tHe WAY YoU’LL

see scULPtUres

eXHIbIteD oUtDo-

ors set AGAInst A

nAtUrAL bAcKDroP,

As WeLL As otHer

and the Opera, the ground floor has two restaurants, a Café and the Buffet Bådan, which has been open since the 3rd of June this year. A shop is stocked with prod-ucts of their own design as well as exhibition catalogs, posters, and interesting information about cur-rent and upcoming exhibitions. Fredrik Björlin, who is a member of the Swedish National Cooking

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Culinary Team, meets us on the stairs going up to the Restaurant Baggen. We take the opportunity to ask some questions:

How has the summer been?

“It has exceeded our expecta-tions, I would say. Both the inflx of guests and the different kinds of guest we’re experiencing this autumn. There have been a lot of guests around all the time and we’ve also commandeered the conference rooms for the restau-rant diners during the summer.”

What´s going to happen when you close the patio for the winter?

“We have a number of unused spaces that we can use for diners inside the house, which means that we will be able to receive an increased number of customers to our restaurants. I would like to point out that right now we are very proud that we received a score of 5 out of a possible 5, from the Restaurant Patrol in the NIP, (Nacka Värmdö Newspa-per). The local press is very im-portant for us.”

What is on the schedule right now?

“We are in full swing planning Christmas buffets here and, of course, the Culinary Olympics.”

olympics?

“Yes, I and the National Cooking Team will be representing Swe-den at the competition in Ger-many this autumn. Then, we’ll be working hard on changing menus after the wonderful season we’re having right now. There will be more venison and apples in differ-ent shapes and sizes.”

FreDrIK bJÖrLIn, WHo Is A MeMber oF tHe sWeDIsH nAtIonAL cooKInG cULInArY teAM, Meets Us on tHe stAIrs GoInG UP to tHe restAUrAnt bAGGen. We tAKe tHe oPPortUnItY to AsK soMe qUestIons:

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And what about christmas buffets?

“We focus on the traditional Christmas dinner, but presenting the meal in a fun way. A tradi-tional meal with a more modern twist. I think you could say that we have a clear vision of what Swedish food is. We also have a bakery on-site which supplies all our bread, cakes and chocolates – it is all made here. Our skilled and experienced cold-buffet managers will ensure that all the component parts are in place for Christmas, and of course, for the rest of year as well.

How do you see the next five years?

“We have added even more space. Cooking classes that will weave art and food together. We will be selling chocolate praline boxes and home-made ice cream. We are thinking of having a grill on the roof that will double as a restau-rant as well. It’s still in the plan-ning stage. We have expanded the kitchen and the refrigerators. And of course we have also been fea-tured in the international press.

“ARTIPELAG has had a fantas-tic start since it’s inauguration on the 6th June. Visitors express their delight at the exciting exhibitions and the very high standard of ca-tering on offer. Now we have to cope with the onslaught that is to come with our sights firmly set on ART, CULTURE and FOOD.” ■

noW We HAVe to coPe WItH tHe onsLAUGHt tHAt Is to coMe WItH oUr sIGHts FIrMLY set on Art, cULtUre AnD FooD.”

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The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is an international gastronomic society for both professionals

and amateurs , with roots that stretch back to the year 1248. The society is represented in

about 70 countries and has more than 25000 members worldwide. From its headquarters

in Paris the organization is headed by President Yam Atallah In 1959 the Balliage de la

Suéde was founded by amongst others Tore Wretman. In Sweden there are 14 associa-

tions, so called Balliage (Bailliwicks) which is individually responsible for its own program

of activities. Coordination, administration and international contacts are taken care by

a national committee under the leadership of Bailli (Grand Bailiff ) Délègue. One of the

society’s strong points is the international membership which allows them to make use

of the fantastic network and offers possibilities to take part in any event at all, wherever

and whenever over the whole world.

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HArD breADWORDS & PICTURES : CATARINA OFFE, VIKA BREAD, SäTERS MUNICIPALITY

In sWeDen, 85% oF HoUseHoLDs Use crIsP breAD At HoMe. tHere Are seVerAL PoPULAr brAnDs, botH LArGe AnD sMALL,

bUt VIKA breAD Is not LIKe AnY otHer crIsPbreAD.

The production process fol-lows no predefined patterns

and the ovens don’t have a ther-mostat. Baked on open flames in wood-fired ovens, they are made entirely by hand and no two loaves of bread are alike. They are all more or less baked to a light gold-en brown, more or less chipped, more or less curved, more or less ... Yes, it is this unevenness that is the strength and the thing that differentiates Vika bread from all other crisp breads.

The bakery was founded in 1923 in Kniva in the parish of Vika by Karl-Oscar Andersson and was operated by his family for three generations. The original bakery

still exists today and can be seen from the road through Vika vil-lage. In 1975 all the manufactur-ing was moved to Skedvi, which lies between Hedemora and Falun in the middle of Sweden. That’s where you have to go to see how this totally handmade crisp bread is made. Some of the bakers were traditional from the beginning; others have become crisp bread bakers just like the old Grandpa. You learn this special craft as an apprentice and it takes about two years to learn the correct tech-nique.

During baking they use soft wood, preferably a mix of spruce and pine which gives the best heat.

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tHe bAKerY WAs FoUnDeD In 1923 In KnIVA In

tHe PArIsH oF VIKA bY KArL-oscAr AnDersson

AnD WAs oPerAteD bY HIs FAMILY For tHree

The dough is made at 3 o’clock in the morning. It contains no secrets ingredients – simply rye flour, water, yeast and salt. Rye flour is supplied by the mill across the road. When the ingredients are thoroughly mixed the dough rises in a large pan for about an hour. It is then rolled out and shaped into loaves and placed on a yeast plank and left to rise at 30 degrees for about another hour without steam, which is common in crisp baking. The loaves are moved by spade over to the hot iron plate. Each loaf is moved three times during baking. First to the right, then the left and finally into the middle of the oven.

Then 12 freshly baked loaves are collected together and hung in a rotating furnace for a whole day. The fact that this drying phase is located above the ovens is no coincidence. In this way, the heat from the ovens is used once again. Extra wood is added to the furnace as needed. It is a difficult art to maintain an even heat. Too much firewood and the loaves will burn, too little means they are not baked enough. It’s all down to speed, precision and skill and a great deal of love for his profes-sion.

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After drying, the loaves contain less than 10% water, which of course gives it a very good shelf life. However, true crisp bread enthusiasts buy their bread as close to production day as pos-sible. The selection is limited, but very good. The oldest is Vika Prima, the original with a slight-ly burnt taste which is baked for longer to give it its rich flavor. This is Grandmother Ruth’s bread with its flavours of yesteryear. Then there’s the Sourdough and Korn which have been developed gradually. The range satisfies the needs of crisp bread lovers. At the midsummer festival they have a limited edition of Mackmyra Crisp. Even famous chefs such as Melker Andersson gets to have his very own bread baked in this bakery. The Brydling Sisters will happily come and bake their own bread here.

tHe seLectIon Is LIMIteD, bUt VerY GooD. tHe oLDest Is VIKA PrIMA, tHe orIGInAL WItH A sLIGHtLY bUrnt tAste WHIcH Is bAKeD For LonGer to GIVe It Its rIcH FLAVor.

DUrInG bAKInG tHeY Use soFt WooD, PreFerAbLY A MIX oF sPrUce AnD PIne WHIcH GIVes tHe best HeAt.

Next to the bakery was a factory retail shop but last spring all that changed and it is now a small cov-ered country market called Vis-thusboden. It has established it-self quickly and offers everything from happy pigs from Forsa Farm, beef from the Pollack Farm, eggs, potatoes and a huge range of re-gional produce. Everything from small-scale and organic producers within a radius of a few kilome-ters, which together create a good culinary tradition with unique in-gredients. While on the other side of the wall the fires from Vika ov-ens are baking the famous crisp breads! ■

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GrAnD centrAL MIX AnD MeetInGsWORDS & PICTURES CATARINA OFFE

At one oF tHe cItY’s bUsIest IntersectIons In tHe centre oF DoWntoWn stocKHoLM, not FAr FroM tHe centrAL

stAtIon, tHe bAreLY one-YeAr oLD scAnDIc GrAnD centrAL HoteL Is HoUseD In A beAUtIFUL bUILDInG WHIcH Is oVer

A HUnDreD YeArs oLD. tHe tHeAtre bAr toGetHer WItH tHe tHeAtre brAsserIe tAKe tHeIr nAMes FroM tHe neArbY

VAsAteAtern.

With almost 400 rooms, by Swedish standards, it is a

really large hotel, with an invit-ing lobby, bar and brasserie that manages to generate a sense of intimacy.

Bar manager Andrea Patelli has been involved since the beginning

and hasn’t had a dull day since! Cellar Master Samuel Laulajainen has worked with Andrea before in another hotel.

Upstairs you’ll find the Acoustic Bar and just inside the lobby is the recently opened Live Bar.

“Our ‘After Work’ sessions are busy everyday, mostly with guests from many of the surrounding of-fices in the area. Many are ‘suit and tie guests’, while others are casual. The Live Bar is a little more ‘posh’,” says Andrea. The

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theater bar is the kind of place to drop-in for a drink and perhaps stay on for a meal in the brasserie with it’s Swedish brasserie menu. The Live Bar has an emphasis on French cuisine, and patrons can enjoy live music from the small stage, often with guitar or piano. The Artist of the Day is advertised on Facebook. Others come up for a drink after dinner. The Acous-

“We HAVe A VerY GooD bAr teAM oFFerInG toP qUALItY serVIce,” sAYs AnDreA, WHo IncIDentALLY Is FroM ItALY. AnotHer coLLeAGUe Is FrencH AnD tHere Are tWo More WHo HAIL FroM soUtH AMerIcA.

tic Bar upstairs has a DJ from Wednesday to Saturday, featuring the latest releases from the world of music.

After just one year the Grand Cen-tral has a large following of regu-lars, interspersed with occasional visitors, travelers and internation-al guests. People drop in after meetings to relax before rushing off to the airport. “Our job is to offer them a good time while they are in Stockholm,” says Andrea.

“We have a very good bar team offering top quality service,” says Andrea, who incidentally is from Italy. Another colleague is French and there are two more who hail

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from South America. There is al-ways someone available to help a non-English speaking guest.

“We only have guests, not cus-tomers,” Andrea explains, and this attitude permeates the entire operation. The guests enjoy sit-ting at the bar and admiring the craftsmanship that goes into mak-ing up their drinks. “The cocktails are big and we have a huge selec-tion, but the Mojito never dies,” he adds. There are three cocktail menus in circulation at any one time. The menus themselves have become something of a collector’s

item and many guests will drop by at least once a month to get hold of a copy. “Our drinks are top quality, and all the ingredients we use are fresh - we press juice, peel fruit and cracks eggs on the spot. We even chip off our own ice,” he adds, showing us kilogram blocks of ice that the bar tenders use. The bar orders 250 kg of ice a week, which is delivered in 125 kg blocks.

Finally, Andrea invites us to a mini show in cocktail mixing. A piece of ice is shaved off to fit right into the glass. He squeezes juice, cracks eggs, adds flavour-ing , chops up some more ice to put into the blender, then

tHe bAr orDers 250 KG oF Ice A WeeK, WHIcH Is DeLIVereD In 125 KG bLocKs.

shakes up a frothy whiskey sour. The foam has a hand-cut orange peel and a pickled Italian cherry. The drink definitely doesn’t look like a whiskey sour and the taste is definitely not like a whiskey sour. Incredibly fresh - and much more dangerous – you can clearly identify the fresh ingredients and without exaggeration, this defi-nitely puts all other whiskey sours to shame! ■

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A major UK PLc Professional services company with 40,000 people worldwide is looking for a reward consultant at one of their offices. the role is dynamic, fast paced and challenging and we

are looking for professionals who have the skills to drive transition and change and bring business standards up to World class level.

reward consultantBeing part of the Reward Team reporting to the Head of Reward, you will be responsible for the contribution towards the design of strategic reward programmes and their deployment and re-sponsible for the development and management of the Reward agenda. Your responsibilities will involve:

• Supporting the transformation of reward function from transactional to providing a strategic partnership to the business by:

- identifying and developing Reward activity transfer plans - driving the implementation of such plans through to measurable success - designing and delivering Reward tools to the Country & Group Service line to support Business Leaders and their teams to understand and manage Reward activities within their teams - continuing to identify and deliver solutions to support the growth/development of the company• Deploying reward solutions (compensation, benefits and recognition) that support business

strategy in geographies/service lines

• Independently driving and completing projects with little or no oversight

• Working with the Head of Compensation & Benefits in the development/delivery of specific group reward programmes

• Ensuring that Total Reward programmes are fit for purpose – best practice, market competitive, cost neutral, tax/social security compliant

As a person you will be committed and innovative with strong influencing and communication skills and you are a strong team player.

bAcKGroUnD / eXPerIence

Graduate level or equivalent with 5-8 years specific Total Reward experience of which at 3 should be internationally in a matrix environment. In particular you will need to have significant expertise in com-pensation (including cash and share based incentives), benefits (including retirement benefits) and rec-ognition. You will need to be an experienced project leader with significant experience of managing and deploying global Total Reward projects. In addition, experience in working with remote/virtual teams is required. It is essential that you have experience of working across international boundaries and a strong history of quickly building key relationships and gaining credibility within the business.

info@flyckt.nu

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AUtUMn cAnDLesWORDS & PICTURES CATARINA OFFE

WItHoUt HAVInG A sPecIFIc bAsIs For MY ArGUMent, I beLIeVe tHAt tHe consUMPtIon oF cAnDLes Per cAPItA Is HIGHer

In sWeDen tHAn In MAnY otHer coUntrIes. tHe VAst sUPPLY AVAILAbLe sHoULD be ProoF enoUGH!

Using naked flame brings with it the need for candlesticks

and candleholders. Although the range is huge, we consumers love to support our own Swedish de-signers and even more so if their products are made in Sweden.

KLONG …is a an onomatopoeic word! KLONG is a brand that was started by Eva Hjertberg and Jonas Bohlin in 2005. Their de-signs are timeless, and produce unexpected experiences which take people by surprise.

consteLLA Is DesIGneD bY eVA scHILDt.

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MIKAeLA WILLers cerAMIcs HAs

been DeVeLoPeD oVer tWentY

YeArs AnD FoLLoWs trADItIon

oFFerInG tHe FeeLInG oF

centUrIes oF DesIGn AnD

HIstorY.

KLONG develops objects that function well, using materials and designs that intertwine to offer a product that stands alone, with-out following fashion trends. The inspiration comes from many dif-ferent cultures, but most of the de-signers are from Sweden.

Constella is designed by Eva Schildt. It is a candlestick for tea lights that can be shaped any way you wish - in a line, zig-zag, in a ring or a star shape. It is avail-able in aluminum or brass. The original candlestick holds ten tea lights, but Eva now produces a ‘little sister’ which burns five tea lights. With a special attachment you can even use electricity or

even use this little candelabra as mini vases.

Mikaela Willers Ceramics has been developed over twenty years and follows tradition offering the feeling of centuries of design and history. Mikaela’s pottery would be at home in a castle or a hut. The products are designed to be used and the many-coloured glazes are beautiful, giving you a taste for more of the same.

The ‘Baroque’ candlestick has an ostentatious shape derived from the brief Baroque period. In the 1920s it became popular again,

tHe ‘bAroqUe’ cAnDLestIcK HAs An ostentAtIoUs sHAPe

DerIVeD FroM tHe brIeF bAroqUe PerIoD.

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designed particularly in silver and given as wedding presents and usually in pairs. Now Mikaela in Vikabyn has created a modern var-iation in pottery which is already becoming a classic. It is available in 21 beautiful colors, making it hard to choose! If you’re adventur-ous like Görgen Tidén who owns a restaurant, you’ll put a little colour on your dinner table. Or you could simply buy a pair of the same color as they did back in the 1920’s.

Munka Sweden is a reputable company that designs and produc-es high-quality products primarily

in pewter. The firm has been in its current form since 1991 and was acquired by Charlotte af Uggla in Sigtuna since 2011. The prod-ucts include both timeless classics and modern innovative designs, updated with carefully selected products in partnership with skilled craftsmen. Munka Swe-den are dedicated to working with quality and care, offering prod-ucts that will last for generations. All Munka’s pewter is authenti-cated with a stamp comprising the company logo and the number 95, which indicates top pewter purity.

tHe cAnDeLAbrA coLLAGe FroM FoLKForM

sKULtUnA brAss MILL

WAs FoUnDeD bY

cHArLes IX on

FebrUArY 11tH,1607

AnD For oVer FoUr

centUrIes HAs

ProDUceD GoLD

sHIMMerInG brAss

obJects.

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“Juleboda” is an Advent candle-holder with space for four can-dles and can be used well beyond Christmas. The space around the candleholders can be filled with anything that captures your imag-ination - pine cones, rocks, flow-ers or even candy.

Skultuna Brass Mill was found-ed by Charles IX on February 11th,1607 and for over four cen-turies has produced gold shim-mering brass objects. The mill remains in exactly the same loca-tion to this day, a valley in Väst-manland. Skultuna’s goal is to produce items of the highest in-ternational quality and to create tomorrow’s antiques for future generations.

As a complement to the many classic models, the candelabra Collage from Folkform is back in production again. This magnifi-cent brass piece is designed by the successful duo Anna Holmquist and Chandra Ahlsell, to accom-modate a mix of different types of candles and makes a beautiful cen-terpiece, not to mention a topic of conversation, at any dinner table. ■

“JULeboDA” Is An ADVent cAnDLeHoLDer WItH

sPAce For FoUr cAnDLes AnD cAn be UseD WeLL

beYonD cHrIstMAs.

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tHe cUbe HAs LAnDeDTExT O PHOTO: CATARINA OFFE / PER-ERIK BERGLUND

JUst LIKe A UFo, one oF tHe WorLD’s Most sPectAcULAr PoP-UP restAUrAnts HAs LAnDeD on tHe rooF oF tHe roYAL

oPerA HoUse In stocKHoLM. oFFIcIALLY nAMeD “tHe cUbe bY eLectroLUX” tHe sWeDIsH coMPAnY Is sHoWcAsInG Its

90-YeAr oLD cooKInG eXPertIse WItH tHIs MobILe restAUrAnt, ALonG WItH Its tWIn, tHe GeMInI, WHIcH HAs MADe GUest

APPeArAnces In brUsseLs AnD MILAn.

JUst LIKe A UFo, one oF tHe WorLD’s Most

sPectAcULAr PoP-UP restAUrAnts HAs LAnDeD

on tHe rooF oF tHe roYAL oPerA HoUse In

stocKHoLM.

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The Gemini, which has made guest appearances in Brussels

and Milan.The Gemini has recently been in London during the Olympics. The cube always appears in spec-tacular locations, preferably on a roof of a famous old building. This offers a special challenge to its construction. Not everyone at the Opera was pleased to have a

temporary visitor, but the voices of dissent were silenced by the murmurs of admiration from all the rest of us.

During the four summer months, all residents and visitors are given the opportunity to view The Cube from the ground and a thousand

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lucky ones are given the chance to have lunch or dinner up there. The restaurant seats 18 guest at a time, seated in a group around a solitary large table. The Cube has space for mingling before and after the dinner. Weather permit-ting, guests can wander anywhere on the outside terrace with its pan-oramic views of the State Depart-ment, Gustav Adolf’s Square, The Royal Palace and Grand Hotel. The sheer glass walls of the res-taurant means the view is never obscured.

Guests are treated to the culinary creations of a number of famous Swedish chefs such as Johan Ju-reskog, AG, Magnus Ek from the now defunct Oaxen, Mathias Dahlgren from Restaurant Mathi-as Dahlgren, Klas Lindberg, 2012’s Chef of the year and Ste-fano Catenacci, resident Chef at the Opera Cellar as well by Royal Appointment. Now and then The Cube will host international guest Chefs for a few days at a time. All the Master Chefs create their own menus, which are a well-kept

secret until the very last minute. There is no option of an á la carte menu.

Watching over all of this is Louis Jureskog, an employee at the Op-era Cellar, who was awarded the Waiter of the Year Award in the White Guide earlier this year. “My little brother,” says a proud Johan Jureskog, who is the first chef to cater this season. He will also host the final period in October.

After champagne and delicious hors d’oeuvres Louis and Johan invites everyone to be seated. Be-cause space is at a premium there is close contact between guests and kitchen staff - it’s almost like home.

“How did you do this?” asks a diner who receives an immediate response from the kitchen. And all of it is prepared using first-class equipment from Electrolux. The table is set with china by Bridget Watts, Johan’s favorite crockery designer. As a basis for the spec-tacular menu, Johan has used his own restaurant AG. Served on a gigantic dish designed by Bridget Watts, is a giant boiled octopus with eight colossal tentacles.

“Everything is edible,” declares Johan. After a considerable time in the pot the squid is tender and smooth in texture and tastes deli-cious served with squid ink aioli and a small salad comprising the freshest ingredients.

tHe restAUrAnt seAts 18 GUest At A tIMe, seAteD In A GroUP AroUnD A soLItArY LArGe tAbLe. tHe cUbe HAs sPAce For MInGLInG beFore AnD AFter tHe DInner.

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The main course is served on an equally large platter; it is a suck-ling pig served with summer veg-etables and new potatoes. The pork was exceptionally tender and tasty, but it wasn’t on this earth long enough to make an impression! Then came the rum baba served with ice-cream and a famous chocolate, but of course with an exquisite flavour. One’s senses can begin to feel so over-loaded it feels like we need some normal food! I’ve no doubt that subsequent master chefs will pro-vide an equally fantastic dining experience and I would have en-joyed being a guest at them all!

In addition to the dining experi-ence the actual “berthing” of the cube was an experience in itself. A construction elevator whisks the Opera guests to the top of the building where it is then just a short walk across the roof of the restaurant. If one suffers from vertigo it could be a bit unsettling, but only a little - inside the rails it feels safe. ■

GUests Are treAteD to

tHe cULInArY creAtIons oF

A nUMber oF FAMoUs

sWeDIsH cHeFs

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sILJAn sALMonWORDS & PICTURES: CATARINA OFFE

on tHe eMbAnKMent to ÖsterDAL äLVen, At tHe PoInt WHere It FLoWs Into LAKe sILJAn YoU’LL FInD tHe LIttLe DALA

sILJAns sALMon coMPAnY WItH Its FActorY AnD sHoP.

Back in the 1960´s Tore Stern-er and his two sons Peter and

Chris began cultivating Rainbow in Lake Siljan. At that time they were world pioneers.

In 1991 a new era began when the salmon farm was sold, but the love of salmon lived on. Tore and Peter began to develop new ready-to-eat salmon products. Their first,

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bAcK In tHe 1960´s tore sterner AnD HIs tWo sons Peter AnD cHrIs beGAn

cULtIVAtInG rAInboW In LAKe sILJAn. At tHAt tIMe tHeY Were WorLD PIoneers.

and still largest selling product, is their oven-marinated salmon. It’s just like it sounds - the salmon is marinated and cooked in the oven, and is exquisitely delicious. So good in fact, that a handful of other companies have tried to copy the recipe but never really succeeded.

Over the years several varieties and flavours have been added to their repertoire, amongst them a Mediterranean spiced, a Thai in-spired one and the classic favour-ite - dill flavor.

Nowadays the company buys Siljan cultivated rainbow salmon and smoked trout from Northern Sweden Classics - the gravlax and smoked salmon are amongst the selection. Counter spillage is turned into salmon roulette which is eaten in slices or fried. It is also used for puddings and sauces and can be purchased at a very reasonable price. It sells out very quickly which is good for the economy, the environment and the consumer. The company is small, with a high focus on qual-ity and customer satisfaction. The number of employees varies with

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the seasons, but generally six or seven people seem able to meet the company’s goals.

The products are mainly sold to hotels and conference centers, and the flight catering service has been a customer for 15 years. There are many SAS travelers who have been delighted to see the oven-marinated classic served on his or her meal tray. The products are served mainly as a buffet dish with caviar sauce, new potatoes and some lightly cooked peas. As a main dish salmon never fails to satisfy.

Peak sales are around Christmas, Easter and in the weeks around midsummer there is chaos in the

tHere Are MAnY sAs trAVeLers WHo HAVe been DeLIGHteD to see tHe

oVen-MArInAteD cLAssIc serVeD on HIs or Her MeAL trAY.

shop! “But it’s a pleasant cha-os,” says sales rep Bengt Öhman, when both tourists and locals residents are crowded into the small shop called Leksandsbröds ”knäckeria” or hard bread store. During the summer hearty crisp sandwiches with Siljans salmon are sold just a stone’s throw from here. It is a delicious and filling lunch. While salmon has a shelf life of one month, they are sold preferentially to consumers in the nearby grocery stores. In order to satisfy consumer demand from further afield, Siljanslax has re-cently opened a new shop. Order one day and have it delivered to your door the next. This is a ser-vice we’ve been anticipating for quite a while. ■

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onLY tHree MontHs to cHrIstMAsTExT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: DAVID CENzER

tYroL’s WILD cHrIstMAs

Tyrol’s Wild Christmas is a dining experience beyond the ordinary. With the motto ”From mother nature to your plate”, guests are again treated to the most exciting array of game dishes, as they have been for the last 29 years. Back in the early years, then Chef Conny Rubach arranged a feast for the Laplandic Parliament and through the local reindeer herders, cater-ers and general food suppliers, he became very interested in the Laplandic and Sami culinary tra-ditions.

”VI VILLe HA

ÖPPet FÖr ALLA”

”Den storA

FÖränDrInGen KoM

noG Då VI InFÖrDe

FrItt Internet”

Following a wild game Christmas at the Skansen hay loft which was a great success, Conny asked the owners of the Gröna Lund Tivoli Park Green for permission to or-ganize a wild game & fowl Christ-mas at the Tyrol Theatre there. Fortunately it was approved. Nowadays in the Tyrol kitchen, Chef Henry Stensvad and Chef Samuel Cabrera are in charge of all of the culinary delights. In addition to the traditional game dishes, you will also find bear, beaver, grouse and other wildlife that are available at that particular time of the year. The feasting is held in the ‘sou-vas’, a patchwork tent erected out-side. Herring is served, followed by a wide variety of salmon, then

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tHe InsPIrAtIon For tHIs YeAr´s YULetIDe scHnAPPs coMes FroM A FAMoUs seLMA APPLe orcHArD WHIcH Is cUrrentLY ceLebrAtInG Its centenArY.

the cold and finally the hot game dishes. You can forget about every-day dishes like Swedish meatballs!The dessert table is not to be sniffed at. As a backdrop to all this wonderful food, the Tyrol puts up Christmas decorations in every little nook and cranny. This is definitely an unforgettable food experience.

cHrIstMAs eVe At tHe LocAL Inn

More and more people choose to eat seasonal Christmas food at a restaurant. In Stockholm they serve a high class classic Christ-mas dinner at the Grand Hotel, Operakällaren (Opera Cellar), Stallmästargården and Has-selbacken. One needs to book well in advance because these restaurants are extremely popular. Besides Christmas fare a number of restaurants offer a la carte men-

us. Anyway - it’s nice to be at the pub on Christmas Eve. tHe cHrIstMAs sPIrIt

The Inspiration for this year´s Yuletide Schnapps comes from a famous Selma apple orchard which is currently celebrating its centenary. The Astrakhan variety was the favorite of the famous Swedish author Selma Lagerlöf who used to own the orchard. For Master Spice blender Jonas Odland this is the 19th year in which he has the delicate task of flavouring the spirits that will be matched with the various cours-es on the Christmas table during celebrations. The taste of apples, smoky malt whiskey, cinnamon, cumin, fennel and coriander seeds go very well with tradi-tional Christmas flavours and rich dishes, even the blue cheese with marmalade and dark chocolate. Lysol-marinated fish tastes better

with Halland elderberries. This year’s Yuletide schnapps is from PRIMA Julsnaps 2012 and is part of the PRIMA Swedish Aquavit and Schnapps family.

MULLeD WIne oF tHe YeAr

The popular vintage mulled wine from FLUSH is celebrating its tenth anniversary. This year it is inspired by the Far East, and a combination of Yuzu and spicy ginger is reflected in the flavour. Yuzu is a citrus fruit grown in Ja-pan and its taste can best be de-scribed as a blend of grapefruit and mandarin. The result is an exciting fusion of taste where the traditional spiced mulled wine meets the orient.

East fruit FLUSH 12 tastes good both at room temperature, hot or cold. ■

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Alkohol är beroende-framkallande.

CAPITEL DE ROARI AMARONEART.NR 12366, 15%VOL,

750ML 185KR / 375ML 95KR

CAMPOLIETI RIPASSOART.NR 6792, 13,5%VOL, 750ML 95KR / 375ML 50KR

www.janake.se

BETYG:88 poängDINA VINER PROFESSIONAL EDITION. 2011-09-11

FYND!2011-09-11

BÄSTA KÖP!BÄSTA KÖP!BÄSTA

2011-08-23 NYHETSMAGASIN

BÄSTA KÖP!

BÄSTA KÖP!

BÄSTA

STORA VINGUIDEN 2011-01-01

+++SÖNDAG 2009-12-13

2011-04-15

AFTONBLADET

FYND!HÖSTSPECIAL 2011-10-25

ÅRETS VIN

2009