Internal Parasites in livestock

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How to Deal With Internal

Parasites in Livestock, Part II

By Randy Kidd

May/June 1979


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How to Deal With Internal Parasites in

Livestock, Part II

If internal parasites have infested your livestock despite your best efforts at prevention,

here are some countermeasures to take.

By Randy Kidd

May/June 1979

When such "classic" symptoms show up, most any owner knows that his or her critters

have internal parasites (commonly called worms). But maybe your animals aren't acting

all that sickly. Perhaps they just look a wee bit listless. Heck, maybe the beasts evenappearto be as happy as cats in a milking parlor!

However, if you read Part I of this article ("How to Deal With Internal Parasites inLivestock"), you know that healthy-looking livestockcan have serious worm

infestations! To put it simply, parasites are the biggest medical problem we veterinarianshave to face. So I know from experience that even when you don't see a single indication

of the internal freeloaders, you can be spending money, building feeders, raising

thoroughbreds, and in general going to a whole lot of trouble all to provide vintage"pastureland" for some hidden (but enormous) herds of worms!

Know Your Enemy (The Essential Parasite Primer)

You should understandbefore you start tackling these foesjust what parasites do and

where they come from. Wormsslimy "spelunkers" that range from microscopic toyardsticksizecan invade almost every animal organ. The uninvited visitors will clog

hearts, coat stomachs, cause acute bellyaches, block blood circulation, eat your stock'sfood (orinnards), andin some instanceskill the "hosts" they inhabit.

What's more, the freeloading vermin can strike at any one of several stages in their lifecycle. In fact, immature larvae sometimes cause more harm than do "adult" worms, whileseemingly harmless parasite eggs can lie dormant around the place for years, just waiting

for the right environment (like ol' Bossy's belly) to come along.

These pests can also attack your animals in a number of ways. Some worm types are

handed downlike family cursesthrough the mother's placenta (or in her milk). Fliescan deposit eggs in your pet's fur, mosquitoes can inject the pests into a critter's


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bloodstream, or your beast may simply eatan insect or rodent that's serving as a parasite"halfway house."

But (pay attention now) the absolute, number one, main way that animals get worms is

through exposure to parasite eggs in the beasts' own manure (and to the small bugs,

snails, and slugs that feed on that manure). I can't emphasize this truth too strongly: Ifyour horse, cow, or whatever can smell its own dung, the animal is going to get worms.

By Randy KiddMay/June 1979

All these discouraging facts about parasites should lead you to a couple of basicconclusions. One is that you will NEVER eliminate all wormsor the threat of them

from your pets and livestock. And the other is that you canand certainly shoulddo

everything within your power to control the pests.

And the best way I know to cut down your parasite population is to consistently follow

Dr. Kidd's famous (well, it sure oughta be):

Five-Point Parasite Control Program

POINT 1: There is a wealth of wisdom in keeping your critters healthy. A good diet, fresh

water, clean shelter, adequate bedding, and a bit of affection now and then will help youranimals resist worms, and other diseases as well (just as these same preventive measures

work for you).

POINT 2: Graze your grass graciously. A pasture rotation plan will protect your

livestock from constant exposure to their own droppings, and therefore make the critters alot less likely to become infested with worms. The wandering quadrupeds will also eat

better, which (as I said in Point 1) will help make them more disease and parasiteresistant.

POINT 3:Manage your manure. Clean all animal living quarters every day and do the

job right. As we say around the Kidd barn, if you can't sit in it (the stall, that is), it ain'tclean.

POINT 4: Pickle those parasites with the proper parasiticide. Identify your wormproblems, thenROUTINELY AND CONSISTENTLYattack them with an effectiveanthelmintic. Consistency is important because the medicine may knock out all the

mature worms in one application but leave the larvae unscathed. It takes repeatedtreatments to catch all the developing "waves" of worms.

POINT 5:Analyze your efforts. Have a veterinarian run fecal checks at leastonce a year,two months or more after your last anthelmintic treatment (so the vermicide has had a


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chance to wear off). What the vet learnswhen he or she examines the small, freshsample droppings you bringwill tell you how well (or how poorly) your treatment

attempts are going. The manure test will also let you know exactly which parasites youhave to fight in the first place. (By the way, one sample from each kindof animal you

raise will be plenty. You won't need to cart in a collection of the pungent pellets,)

Anthelmintic Cautions

All right, you've taken care of your animal's pastureland, stall, and general well-being,

and you've also taken your manure tidbits down to a vet and had that doctor analyze yourworms. At last the two of you are equipped to pick out a real parasite-walloping

vermicide.

(NOTE: This article will give you general information that can help you understand whatyou and your vetare doing ... it will notteach you how to choose your own anthelmintic.

However, if you do unsuccessfully try a do-it-yourself treatment anywayand then end

up consulting a "heifer healer"PLEASE be kind enough to tell the doctor whatmedication you used. It may help him or her save your critter's life.)

By Randy Kidd

May/June 1979

The type of anthelmintic that you and your doc should choose is one that is safe,

economical, easy-to-use, and eliminates many kinds of parasites (a broad-spectrumanthelmintic). Most of the newer "scattershot" wormers satisfy these characteristics.

But, before you administer any anthelmintic, pleasefor the sake of your beasts' (and

your own) healthtake the following precautions:

KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOINGRead and reread the directions on the medicine'slabel until you thoroughly understand them.

USE THE CORRECT DOSAGEIt Is possible to actually kill an animal if you use

too much parasiticide or give the medicine too often. Twice as much is NOT twice as

good.

BE PARTICULARLY CAUTIOUS ABOUT USING ANTHELMINTICS ON SICK

ANIMALS, YOUNG ANIMALS, PREGNANT ANIMALS, OR LACTATING

ANIMALS (critters giving milk).


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DON'T DRINK ANY MILK FROM A PARASITICIDE-TREATED ANIMAL UNTIL

ALL TRACES OF THE DRUG ARE GONE FROM THE BEAST'S MILK. Your vet

can tell you the "withdrawal time" for a specific anthelmintic.

DON'T ADMINISTER ANTHELMINTICS IN YOUR LIVESTOCK'S FEED

UNLESS YOU CAN BE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN THAT EACH AND EVERYANIMAL EATS ITS "CHOW" AND GETS ITS FAIR SHAREAND ONLY ITS

SHAREOF THE MEDICINE.

Once you've absorbed all those precautionary words, you'll be ready to help your animals

absorb something. Namely, a good, broad-spectrum worm medication. Because thiswhole disease and treatment topic can get pretty danged complicated, I've worked up an

easy-to-read Anthelmintics Chart to accompany this article. The table lists some commonparasites, appropriate vermicides, and sound treatment programs for the standard

homestead livestock and pets.

Remember that

by necessity

all the information I'm giving you is very general.There're plenty of good anthelminties that I won't be mentioning, and new ones are beingdeveloped all the time. Your own vet will know which particular worm killers work best

for your specific parasites. (After all, the area where you live may have entirely differentworms from my home territory.)

Oh, and one last thing. To keep these pages squeezed down to one article (instead of

letting them fill out the whole magazine), I've only mentioned a few of the many varietiesof parasites. I sincerely hope that any worm whose name I leave out will forgive me.

Lord knows, I don't need any worms mad at me.

Ruminant Animals

Cattle, sheep, and goats are all ruminants. That is, animals with four stomachs (their habit

of chewing their own cud gives us that word for pondering and repondering a thought,ruminating). These contemplative gnawers can get infested with a page-filling list of

internal parasites. Bortunately, most modern broad-spectrum anthelmintics are effectiveagainst all sorts of uninvited ruminant "guests."

By Randy Kidd

May/June 1979

One nasty disease that immature ruminants sometimes catch is called coccidiosis. The

frisky young'uns will probably shake off this single-celled parasite on their own if they

get some sunshine and adequate pasture room. But coccidiosis can be fatal. Personally, Iwouldn't wait around to see whether the critters drop the bug or the bug drops them. Ifyour newborns get the "runs"or if your herd has had coccidiosis problems in the


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pasttreat the cud-chewing youngsters quickly. In fact, a sensible preventive measurewould be to take a fecal sample from any newborn ruminant to your vet for analysis.

Now, I'll tell you a bit more about each of these barnyard beasties.

CATTLE. All cattle should be wormed three to four times a year, beginning when theyare about one month old. Of course, you won't have any trouble medicating the dairymooers you handle every day. It isn't so easy to treat free-roaming beef cattle. Some of

those nomadic hoofers get pretty "unhumanized," and trying to hold them still longenough to, say, squirt a thiabendizole paste on their tongues is about as easy as

shampooing a porcupine. You'll probably have to settle for worming the beef critterswhenever you've got them restrained for some other reason (like castration or

vaccination).

Mother cows should be treated with anthelmintics just before they calve (to prevent them

from passing the worms to their offspring) and again 90 days later. Paste or bolus (big

pill) forms work well. Remember, don't drink any of your cow's milk until the timeperiod during which the vermicide can be detected in the milk is over, Also, be sure (byfollowing your vet's advice) that the parasiticide you use won't ''dry up" your cow and

make her stop producing milk.

SHEEP. Parasitism is the number one health problem in sheep and is directly related tohow well they are fed. It pays to indulge the appetites of your woolly friends. Sheep

worms also experience spring rise. In other words, the pests really come out swingingafter winters over. Therefore, don't forget to give your flockevery yeara thorough

intestinal "spring cleaning".

GOATS. These are such argumentative creatures that adding the anthelmintic to theirfeedand making certain each one eats a fair shareis probably the easiest way to

worm your Nannies and Billies. The feeding technique is made especially convenient bythe fact that most broad-range worm medicines come in easy-to-eat granular and liquid

forms.

Horses Parasites

Horses can carry a cavalry of internal riders, so many that you may need to worm thesteeds pretty danged steadily just to stay on top of their parasite problems. That's one

reason why I put such a long list of horse anthelmintics on the bug-and-drug chart: so you

can switch your "weaponry" often enough to keep the vermin from developing aresistance to any one medication. (The other reason is thatsince you don't milkhorsesyou can use a greater variety of anthelmintics on them than can safely be

administered to ruminants.)


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By Randy KiddMay/June 1979

Among the nastiest of the equestrian parasites are the larvae of the strongyle

bloodworms. These "bugs" migrate into the arteries that supply the small intestine, andthus the parasites can actually block off some of a horse's blood flow, causing acute

intestinal pain (colic).

Bots (the larvae of the Gasterophilus fly) are an equally nagging juvenile invader. The

hard-coated, sluglike shysters can cover almost the entire surface of a horse's stomach.Horses ingest the parasites by innocently chewing or licking the spotlikeand visible to

the human eyeeggs, which flies deposit on the critters' slick coats.

And just in case you haven't heard enough equine afflictions, another horse worm youcan sometimes see is the Oxyuris, or pinworm. These lower intestine burrowers may

actually crawl out of your steed's backside. If your horse has a ratty tail (because theanimal's been scratching its southbound end a lot), this pointy parasite may be the reason.

Hog Treatment

Since animals that have contact with their own manure are most likely to get worms,pigswhich are renowned for living the "sty life"get plenty of parasites. I've filled a

quart mason jar with the worms removed from just one sow! To keep your swine fine and

healthy, you'll have to worm the creatures on a regular basis. Andbecause the porky"garbage disposals" will consume almost anythingthe simplest way to get ananthelmintic into a pig's stomach is just to add the medicine to its food.

Dog Worms

Almost all puppies are born with some kindand often lots of kindsof worms. So besure to treat your canine babies and your expectant dog mothers conscientiously.

Piperazine is a common roundworm medicine that works well (remember, it only killsmature roundworms, so you have to use it repeatedly). But piperazine is a specificnot

a broad-spectrum

anthelmintic and won't affect any other worms your pups may beharboring.

Hookworms are a very severe example of those "other'' dog botherers. These "vampires"enter by penetrating the skin and can drain enough blood to make the pups anemic or

even kill them. Check young dogs at four to six weeks of age for this intestinal parasite(or even sooner after birth if you've had hookworm troubles in the past).


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Another common canine parasite found in dogs of all ages is the tapeworm. Dogs catchthese well-named (they may be five feet long) scoundrels in two ways. The Taenia

tapeworm larvae inhabit the body of a rabbit or rodent, soif your hound likes to eatwild critters out backit may well already be hosting this pest. AndDipylidium

tapeworm eggs use fleas as their "pass card" for intestinal entrance. When your canine

chews

and accidentally swallows

an aggravating skin-biter, the pooch's aggravationmay have just begun.

You can tell if Fido has either variety of tapeworm by looking for white, rice like wormsegments in your dog's feces. If you see these egg-harboring body pieces, medicate your

dog immediately. However, don't use one of the older tapeworm remedies. Thoseoutmoded anthelmintics knock off most of the tape worm's body (the segments will

dramatically appear in the dog's waste ), but the parasite's many-hooked head remainsembedded in your suffering pooch's intestinal wall to grow and strike again. The newer

remedies "go for the jugular" and kill the tapeworm's head (some even dissolve the whole"measure" so you won't see any segments passed in the animal's feces at all).

Niclosamide is a very effective and safe example of the more modern drugs available(this medicine is a specific anthelmintic against the flea-spreadDipylidium tapeworm.)

One canine problem you definitely should not treat at home is heartworms. These

mosquito-spread larvae mature into spaghetti-strand monsters right in the chambers ofyour dog's heart and inhibit the pumping of the blood in this dangerously hard-to-treat

organ. So try to prevent the problem before it starts by finding outfrom your vetifheartworms are prevalent in your area and what you can do to prevent them (the test for

these parasites is done from a bloodrather than a fecalsample).

Cats Are Clean, Mostly

Cats can get most of the same parasites that dogs do, butbecause of Tabby's renowned(and effective) cleaning habitsfelines have a lot less worm trouble than most other

species. One parasite that can easily trouble cats, though, is tapeworms (cats get'em justas dogs do, by eating animals or swallowing fleas). In fact, if fleas are a big item in your

area, you may need to treat your cat for tapeworms every month.

One More Once

What I'm trying to get across by telling you these discomforting facts is just how

fortunate we are today. Many of the anthelmintics available now arc safe (WHEN USEDCORRECTLY) and are effective. So don't let parasites drain your critters (and your

pocketbook).

I've written this message so many times that my pen is winded, but dammit, it's true. Youcan solve your parasite problems! You just have to stickconscientiouslyto the first

three points of the PARASITE CONTROL PROGRAMand then periodically use anefficient anthelmintic.


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More Home Veterinary Care Information

Further information about how you can keep your farm animals and house pets healthycan be found in the following sources:

1. The Home Herdsman's Guide to Parasite Detection, Parasite Control, and ParasitePrevention in Livestock

2. Natural Dewormer for Livestock3. How to Give a Horse That First Injection

4. Animal Restraint Techniques5.You Can Too Give That Animal an Injection

6. Be Your Own 'Animal Medicine Man'7. Horse Care: Restrain and Medicate Your Horse

8. How to Deal With Internal Parasites in Livestock


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Internal Parasites in livestock

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