INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS AND USER’S GUIDE

Fiberglass Endless Pool™

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Description

The Fiberglass Endless Pool offers the same quality swim andattractive addition to a home that over 11,000 customers havealready experienced with an original Endless Pool. However,the Fiberglass Endless Pool requires a different installation pro-cedure. This document describes some of the basic informationthat is necessary to understand before installing a Fiberglasspool, regardless of its install configuration.

Traditionally, fiberglass pools are installed fully in-ground,where backfilled earth provides support for the fiberglass shellagainst the pressure of the water in the pool. For abovegroundinstallations where there is no earth for support, the shell mustbe supported by other means. Depending on the type of instal-lation that has been selected for a particular site, Endless Poolshas provided different instructions to explain each installationprocess.

There are a few different ways to give a Fiberglass Endless Poolthe desired installation appearance, all of which are detailed inthe Fiberglass Endless Pool Planning Guide:

• For fully in-ground installations, a pit must be excavated tothe appropriate depth. Once the pool is lifted and set in place,the outside pool walls must be backfilled against in order for itto be properly supported. A cavity must be constructed at thefront of the pool for the Water Quality System.

• For partially in-ground installations where no reinforcementstructure will be used, the pool must be installed with no morethan 18"of the pool above the finished grade. A cavity must beconstructed at the front of the pool for the Water QualitySystem.

• For partially in-ground installations where the pool will beinstalled with more than 18" of the pool above the finishedgrade, a pit must be excavated and an appropriate sub-baselayer set in place to support the pool. This configurationrequires the optional External Freestanding Frame and is onlypossible with the 5' tall (standard height) model.

• For fully aboveground installations, the pool (with the option-al External Freestanding Frame) must be placed on a level plat-form. Preferably this is a concrete slab, but it can also be on awell-constructed, properly reinforced, level, rot-resistant ply-wood platform. The fully aboveground Fiberglass Endless Poolconfiguration is only available with the 5' tall (standard height)model.

Planning Considerations for Aboveground Installations

For true fully aboveground installations, the optional ExternalFreestanding Frame must be purchased for the standard depthFiberglass Endless Pool, as this depth pool is the only modelthat can offer the External Freestanding Frame as an option.This shell needs to be set on a smooth and level base that cansupport the weight of the pool when it is filled with water.Access through the skirting or finish work at the front of thepool will have to be maintained in order to perform mainte-nance on the Water Quality System and the hydraulic connec-tions when necessary.

Planning Considerations for In-Ground Installations

A compacted sand base can support the weight of the pool whensoil conditions are favorable. More detailed information on howto properly lay the sand base and level and backfill the poolshell is available in the section titled, Fully and Partially In-Ground Fiberglass Endless Pool Installation.

When considering the appropriate depth for the pit, rememberthat the final elevation of the pool is determined by how thepool’s coping (and related carpentry), or deck will be finished.Be sure to consider how the different types or thicknesses offinish work, decking (concrete, tile, wood), coping or skirtingwill affect the final elevation of the project. Once the deck orfinishing work and elevation has been decided upon, workbackwards from that elevation to decide how much excavationneeds to be done. Be sure to take into account the thickness ofthe compacted sand base on which the pool will sit.

Keep in mind that the final elevation of the pool should not bea low spot such that drainage from the surrounding area flowsinto the pool. The final or finished elevation of the pool shouldbe high enough that runoff flows away from the pool. If unsureof how the runoff in your yard will be affected by the final ele-vation of the pool or visa versa, it may be necessary to contacta civil engineer or landscape architect. A local or state one-callservice should be notified before any digging or excavationtakes place as to prevent damage to any underground utilities.

Depending on how the pool is going to be delivered to the siteand unloaded from the truck, it may be necessary to have the pitfor the pool already dug so that (if a crane is being used) thepool can be set in place upon delivery. If the preparation workcannot be completed by the time the fiberglass pool shell isscheduled to arrive, the pool shell can almost always be tem-porarily set in a driveway. Please discuss the delivery methodwith the Endless Pools Shipping representative.

Pool Delivery

Prior to doing any excavation, it is necessary to determine thetype of machine that should be used to unload the pool from thedelivery truck and either into the pit (that is going to be dug) oronto the platform or slab on which it will stand. Depending onthe span and height over which the pool needs to be lifted, it ispossible that a backhoe will be adequate to lift the pool. If acrane is required, consult with a crane company to determinethe type of crane that will be necessary for the particular instal-lation, and when that particular crane would be available (inyour area, on the day you plan to receive and install the pool) tolift the pool into place. The weight of the empty pool is approx-imately 1000 lbs, but depending on where the pool will beunloaded from the truck and what it must be lifted over in orderfor it to be set in place, the type and size of crane needed to dothe job may need special consideration. If the preparation workis done properly, the crane may not need to be used on site formuch longer than an hour.

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Receiving the Pool on Site

In an effort to keep shipping costs to a minimum, Endless Poolshas determined that for different locations, different deliverymethods are more effective than others. Because of this, theFiberglass Endless Pool is most often delivered on a longflatbed trailer that is towed by a pickup truck. But it is also fre-quently delivered on a tilt-bed trailer that is towed by a pickuptruck, and it may occasionally be delivered by a large flatbedtractor-trailer.

In most cases, it is necessary to have a crane to meet the deliv-ery truck on site to hoist the pool off the truck. The type ofinstallation and layout of the job site will determine the type ofmachinery that will be used to lift the pool. All of this planningshould be completed with the Endless Pools Shipping represen-tative in order to better understand the delivery options for theFiberglass Endless Pool.

The Swim Unit, Water Quality System, and any other optionsordered will usually be shipped via UPS separately from thepool shell. These components require assembly and installationon the pool shell after everything has arrived on site, but beforesurrounding finish work is completed.

Pool Shell Preparation

Once the pool is unloaded from the delivery truck and set in atemporary location, the pool must be plumbed. If using a craneto move the pool, it is imperative that the plumbing be donebefore the crane arrives, so that it does not need to wait on thesite while the plumbing is completed. The plumbing requiresthe use of templates (found in the Fiberglass Endless PoolAccessory Kit) for the propulsion unit, and optional lights orhydrotherapy jets. The propulsion unit must be installed in thepool at this time as well.

Tools Required

Caulk gun Tape measure

Carpenters level Flat straightedge

Drill with #2 Phillips bit Circular/Belt sander or grinding wheel

Jigsaw and 2 1/5" hole saw Adjustable wrench or socket wrench kit

Attaching the Skimmer

Remove the skimmer from its box, and remove the faceplate,basket, filter, hardware, etc. from the skimmer body. Feed thebody through the hole in the pool wall and verify the fastenerholes in the skimmer faceplate flange align with the holesalready cut into the fiberglass shell. The skimmer body may beloose in the pre-cut skimmer opening in the pool shell. The sil-icone (cartridge tube found in WQS plumbing parts kit) shouldbe used generously to assure that there are no leaks around theskimmer opening. It is helpful to have another person availableto help with the next couple steps.

Apply a bead of silicone around the edge of the skimmer holeslide the back plate of the skimmer over the skimmer body fromoutside the pool.

Apply another bead of silicone around the perimeter of theskimmer hole, on the outside of the pool, before pressing theback plate against the pool wall. Now, from inside the pool,begin to attach the skimmer to the wall using the providedscrews. The screws will go through the skimmer’s front flange,through the fastener holes in the fiberglass shell, and into theback plate that was just set in place. Do not tighten any of thescrews before first threading all of the screws into their respec-tive holes.

When the screws are tightened, some of the silicone should beseen squeezing out from between the skimmer’s front flangeand the pool wall.

After all of the screws are tightened, inspect the back plate fromoutside the pool, and be sure that it is drawn tightly against theback side of pool shell, and that the silicone has been squeezedout similarly on the back side. Once the skimmer is firmly inplace, use a damp cloth inside the shell to clean up any extra sil-icone around the skimmer’s front flange. Allow the silicone tocure before proceeding.

Cutting the Holes

The pool will arrive with a skimmer hole already cut, but thehole for the return line and holes for mounting the propulsionhousing

must be drilled or cut on site. If underwater lights or hydrother-apy jets have been ordered, the appropriate holes for thoseoptions must be cut on site as well. All holes should be cut frominside the

pool shell. Refer to and follow all instructions on the includeddrawings, “Hole Cutting Pattern for Typical Through WallFittings, Lights, and Jets Suction,” and “Hole Template and

Cutting Pattern for Mounting Propulsion Housing” when layingout the appropriate holes on the pool shell, but do this ONLYafter the skimmer has been attached to the pool wall (in the pre-vious step), as the hole locations for mounting the propulsionhousing

need to be verified against the skimmer location. Call EndlessPools Customer Service with any questions about the hole lay-out patterns. Once measured, marked, and double-checked, drilland cut all necessary holes in the front of the Fiberglass EndlessPool shell.

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Attaching the Fittings

The backside of the holes must be cleaned and the glass must beground flat so the nut of each fitting can draw the fitting flat andeven against the pool wall. Using a circular sander or a grindingwheel (and with proper ventilation, as the airborne resin partic-ulate is harsh), grind down and smooth out the perimeter of eachhole, as shown in the photos.

Once ground down and even, the appropriate through wall fit-tings can be installed in their respective holes. For the WaterQuality System (WQS) return fitting, open the FiberglassEndless Pool WQS plumbing parts kit, and remove the onethrough wall fitting (in plastic wrapper) and the cartridge tubeof silicone. Unthread the nut from the fitting and remove thecork gasket and one of the rubber gaskets (discard the other)from the fitting body.

From inside the pool, run a very small bead of silicone aroundthe perimeter of the hole in the wall. With one rubber gasketover the fitting body, slide it through the pool wall, as shown inthe photos. Now, from outside the pool with the fitting bodyprotruding through the pool wall, apply another thin bead of sil-icone around the perimeter of the hole, and slide the cork gas-ket over the fitting body. Finally, by hand tightening the nut tothe fitting body, thread the nut onto the fitting as tightly as pos-sible. Avoid using tools such as channel locks or similar as thenut and fitting can crack when under the amount of pressurethese tools can apply.

Treat the pool shell holes and through wall fittings for optionalhydrotherapy jet suction or underwater lights in the same fash-ion and with the same steps (i.e. cut and grind hole in fiberglassshell, silicone bead, gaskets, silicone again, hand tighten fittingnut, etc.) as the WQS return fitting was just handled.

Attaching the Mounting Bolts

The bolts used to attach the Propulsion Housing to the fiberglasswall of the pool need to be carefully attached to the pool wall tokeep the penetrations water tight and also support the weight ofthe Propulsion Housing. On each of the two stainless steel 3/8"x 2" bolts, place a large fender washer. Around the 3/8" holedrilled in the pool wall, apply a small bead of silicone to theback side of the pool shell, and feed the bold with washerthrough the holes as shown in the photos. Again working frominside the pool, apply a small bead of silicone around the open-ing through which the threaded bolts are protruding. Feed therubber backed stainless washers over the bolts, with the rubbersurface going against the pool wall. Thread one of the 3/8" jamnuts onto each of the bolts, and tighten them so that the bolt isheld firmly in place by the pool wall, as shown in the photos.(Please refer to the bonding section before this step). Dependingon the thickness of the fiberglass wall, it may appear that onebolt is protruding further through the pool wall than the other,

but as long as they’re pulled tight against the pool wall, they arefine. The Propulsion Unit will hang on these bolts in a furtherstep, but for now, the other 3/8" washer, lock washer, and otherjam nut can be loosely threaded onto each of the protrudingbolts for safekeeping.

Attaching Fittings for the Hydraulic Lines

Refer to and follow all instructions on the included template,“Hole Template and Cutting Pattern for Mounting PropulsionHousing” when drilling or cutting the hole locations for the fit-tings through which the hydraulic lines will run. Once the holesfor the two hydraulic lines have been cut, it may be necessary toclean the back side of the holes (as described in the sectiontitled, Cutting the Holes).

Following the same process that was previously used to installthe WQS return fitting (covered in the section titled, Attachingthe Fittings), locate the two fittings included in the FiberglassEndless Pool Accessory Kit and install them on the pool shell.Once the fittings (through which the hydraulic lines will run)are installed in the pool wall, locate the PVC reducer bushingsand black compression fittings in the Accessory Kit. Workingfrom outside the pool shell, glue the bushing reducer into theback of each of the fittings. Make sure to apply PVC cleaner toboth faces of the glue joint prior to gluing. Then, place Teflonsealant and tape onto the threads of each black compression fit-ting before threading each compression fitting into the back ofthe PVC reducer bushings.

Bonding Lug

Place one of the provided washers onto the 3/4" machine screw.While working inside the pool shell, insert the screw into thebonding lug screw hole (that was drilled by using the “HoleTemplate and Cutting Pattern for Mounting PropulsionHousing”) in the pool shell. Then, from outside the pool,squeeze a dab of silicone around the threads of the screw at itshole opening. Place the bonding lug and the other washer over

the screw, squeezing out a bit of the silicone around its perime-ter, and then thread the nut onto the screw. Don’t thread the nuton tightly until the propulsion unit has been mounted to the poolwall (in a later section), and its bonding wire is wrapped aroundthis screw and sandwiched between the screw head and washer.

On the outside of the pool shell, the bonding lug is to be con-nected to the rest of the pool's bonding grid using the providedlength of #8 AWG copper wire*.

*Additionally, the copper wire can be wrapped around themounting bolts. Loosen the jam nuts (inside the pool) and pushthe mounting bolts back out of the pool. Wrap the bond wirearound each bolt and retighten the jam nut.

Water Quality System Plumbingand Accessories

Attaching the Heater/Controller

The Heater/Controller comes attached to its mounting board.The mounting board is loosely attached to a PVC angle that hasholes pre-drilled in it. Separate the PVC angle from the rest ofthe mounting assembly, and place it up against the bottom of thefiberglass return flange on the outside of the pool, so that theright end of the PVC angle is four inches to the left of the cen-terline of the left 3/8" bolt that was just attached to the poolwall. The PVC angle should be spaced away from the back ofthe pool wall so that the transformer box on the back of theHeater/Controller will just barely touch the pool wall. The PVCangle is then be attached to the bottom of the fiberglass flangeusing the provided 1.25" long stainless screws, as shown in thephotos.

Do not attach the PVC angle tightly to the top flange, becauseany uneven spots in the top flange will cause the angle piece totwist, making it difficult to align the holes in the mounting boardwith the holes in the angle piece. However once the mountingboard has been attached to the PVC angle, the screws can be

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tightened to prevent the assembly from swinging against thepool wall. The bump out on the back of the assembly should nowbe resting against the pool wall, but a thin piece of the providedfoam should be able to fit between the wall and the bump out.

Attaching the Pump

The small black circulating pump now needs to be attached tothe Heater/Controller assembly before the rest of the plumbingcan be completed. First, locate the Heater/Controller adapterand be sure that its “T” gasket is in place before attaching theadapter to the right end of the Heater/Controller. Hand tightenthe union nut on the Heater/Controller to the adapter. Next, usea provided 2-1/4" long PVC pipe nipple and glue it into theheater controller adapter. Be sure that the union nut is on theunion adapter (BEFORE gluing), and then glue the pump unionadapter onto that nipple. Also, make sure that the pump union o-ring is seated in the union before securing the pump. Attach thepump to the pump union so that the main body of the pump isperpendicular to the heater controller and the rear of the pumpis facing the pool shell as shown in the photos. The pump shouldbe positioned so that there is enough room behind the pump toplace another small piece of foam. The foam will help dampenany vibration against the pool wall caused by the pump. Finally,secure the second pump union on the other opening of thepump, again making sure that the union o-ring is in place before securing.

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Plumbing from the Skimmer to the Pump (without optional UV Sanitizer)

Make sure to apply PVC cleaner to both sides of a glue jointprior to applying the PVC cement.

Glue the 2" to 1-1/2" adapter to the bottom outlet of the skim-mer. Glue a male slip x female slip elbow into the bottom of theadapter so that the elbow is facing away from the pool.

Glue a 4-1/4" PVC pipe nipple into that elbow, and then fit (but don’t yet glue) a female slip x female slip elbow onto thatnipple with its open end facing the pump.

At the pump, first glue a 2-1/4" PVC pipe nipple into the pumpunion. Then fit (but don’t yet glue) a female slip x female slipelbow onto that nipple with its open end facing the other elbow’sopen end from the previous step. Glue another 2-1/4" PVC pipenipple into the open end of the elbow (at the pump), and thenglue the ball valve into that nipple, with the handle facing up.

A 1-1/2" tee needs to be glued in between the elbow and the ballvalve. Cut two lengths of flexible PVC so that tee is in theapproximate center between the elbow and the ball valve. Makesure to account for the sockets of the PVC fittings when meas-uring for these pipes. Once the pipes have been cut, glue theminto either side of the tee.

Then glue one end of this piping sub-assembly into the ballvalve. Glue the other end into the elbow that was looselyattached to the elbow under the skimmer. Make sure that theopening of the tee is pointing down.

This plumbing assembly will now need to be permanently gluedinto the system. Pull this away from the pool. Each end willhave to be glued into place simultaneously, forcing the connec-tions to line up. Apply glue to each joint face (total of 4). Placeone end onto the nipple at the bottom of the skimmer and thenimmediately secure the elbow onto the nipple at the pump.Again, make sure that the opening of the tee is facing down.

Glue a short length of PVC pipe (approx. 2-1/4”) into the bot-tom of the tee. Then glue the check valve onto this short lengthof pipe. Make sure that the arrow on the check valve is facingup. Thread on the female slip x female pipe thread union ontothe male threads of the suction assembly. Loosely place a maleslip x female slip elbow into the union so that it is facing thebottom of the tee. Take a measurement between the check valveand the elbow of the suction fitting and cut a length of pipe tothat length. Make sure to take into account the sockets of the fit-tings prior to cutting the pipe. Glue the pipe into the check valvefirst. Glue the elbow onto the pipe and then glue the elbow intothe union that was attached to the suction fitting.

Plumbing to Return Fitting

Locate the Heater/Controller adapter and be sure that its “T”gasket is in place before attaching the adapter to the left end ofthe Heater/Controller. Hand tighten the union nut on theHeater/Controller to the adapter. Avoid using tools such aschannel locks or similar as the union nut can crack when underthe amount of pressure these tools can apply. Glue a 2-1/4" PVCpipe nipple into the adapter and then fit (but don’t yet glue) afemale slip x female slip elbow into that pipe so that its open

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end is facing downward. Then glue a 4-1/4" PVC pipe nippleinto the elbow, and glue another female slip x female slip elbowinto the bottom of that nipple, with its open end facing towardsthe right.

Now working from the return fitting that was previouslyinstalled in the pool wall (underneath the Heater/Controller),glue a male slip x female slip elbow into the fitting with its openend facing towards the left, and in the direction of the previousstep’s elbow. Much like when plumbing from the skimmer tothe pump in the previous section, this case includes a 13" longsection of PVC flex

pipe that needs to be cut to fit between both of the elbows.Again be sure that the socket depths of both elbows have beenaccounted for prior to cutting the pipe. Then cut the pipe, andremove the elbow connection section that was previously onlydry fit into the nipple at the Heater/Controller adapter. Now gluethe pipe into the elbow that was just glued into the return fitting,and wait a few minutes to let the glue set. Finally, glue theelbow connection section at both elbows (that were dry fit pre-viously) into their respective pipe nipples at the same time toprevent any crooked glue joints in the system.

Installing the Keypad

The placement of the Heater/Controller keypad needs to be con-sidered before any finish work is done around the pool. Thekeypad can be placed in the front wall of the Fiberglass EndlessPool and above the waterline. Ideally, it is installed in the poolcoping or in pool’s vertical finished skirting or cabinetry. Whenpicking a location for the keypad in your finish work, keep inmind that the keypad cord needs to plug in to theHeater/Controller, and therefore should not be located fartherthan the cord’s length away from the Heater/Controller. If thekeypad needs to be located farther from the Heater/Controllerthan the cord length, please contact Endless Pools CustomerService to discuss a solution. At the desired location for the ovalshaped keypad, drill two 1" diameter holes at 2-5/8" from cen-ter to center and use a jigsaw to cut between the holes to createan oval shaped hole into which the keypad can fit. If placing thekeypad at the front of the pool, it is important to make sure thatthere is no external support structure or fiberglass flange on theoutside of the pool that might be accidentally damaged whilecutting the holes.

To install the keypad on a vertical surface, first peel off theadhesive protection from the backside of the keypad and feedthe keypad cord through the cutout. Firmly press the keypadinto place and then slide the cord through the opening in thebracket. Push the bracket all the way up to the backside of thekeypad, clamping the coping, skirting, or fiberglass in between

the keypad and the bracket. Make sure that the bracket is placedover the two threaded studs on the back of the keypad. Once thatis completed, thread and hand tighten the two wing nuts overthe two threaded studs.

To install the keypad in a horizontal surface, simply cut theholes as described above, remove the adhesive protection, feedthe cord into the hole, and firmly press on the surface of the key-pad, as the adhesive tape will hold it securely in place.

Plumbing from the Skimmer to the Pump (with Optional UV Sanitizer)

If the UV Sanitizer system has been purchased as an option, therequired plumbing configuration will be different from the stan-dard configuration. Additional PVC fittings have been providedto allow for the UV Sanitizer to be properly plumbed to theFiberglass Endless Pool Water Quality System.

Make sure to apply PVC cleaner to both sides of a glue jointprior to applying the PVC cement.

First, glue the 2" to 1-1/2" adapter to the bottom outlet of theskimmer that was previously attached to the pool wall. All otherplumbing joints in this configuration should be fit together drywithout glue at first, and then glued together once it has beenverified that all parts for the entire configuration fit togetherproperly.

Fit a male slip x female slip elbow into the bottom of the adapterso that the elbow’s opening is angled slightly away from thepool but it faces towards the pump. Cut the provided 9-1/2"PVC nipple into (2) lengths that are 3-5/8” long.

Insert each of the 3-5/8" nipples into either end of the provided1-1/2" tee.

Insert one end of the tee sub-assembly into the elbow attachedto the skimmer. Place a slip x slip elbow onto the opposite endof the sub assembly. Make sure that the open end of the elbowis facing up and the open end of the tee is facing down. Fit theincluded 4-1/2" PVC pipe nipple into the elbow, and then fit theball valve with handle facing away from pool shell (but slight-ly towards the skimmer body) into that nipple. A 2-1/2" PVCpipe nipple fits into the open end of the ball valve, and then amale slip x female slip elbow is fit on that nipple so that it’sopen-end faces away from the pool, which will connect to theUV Sanitizer.

At the pump, the only plumbing that needs to be done is to gluea 2-1/4" PVC pipe nipple into the pump union. The UVSanitizer should then be unwrapped from its packaging and fithorizontally into the rest of the assembled plumbing configura-tion with its cord facing towards the Heater/Controller. Theunions on the UV Sanitizer should slip over the nipple (at thepump) and the street elbow (at the ball valve), and the unitshould be plumbed so that it is above the 24" vertical clearancethat is required at the front of the pool, as shown in the photos.

Next, cut a 2-1/4" length of pipe off of the longest providedpipe. Push that into the bottom opening of the tee. Push thecheck valve onto the pipe connected to the tee. Make sure thearrow on the tee is facing up. Insert a male slip x female slipelbow into the suction fitting so that it is facing the skimmer.Insert a pipe into the check valve and take a measurementbetween the pipe and the elbow attached to the suction fitting.Cut a pipe to that length. Make sure to take into account thesocket of the elbow when measuring. Place that pipe back into

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the check valve and position an elbow on to the end of that pipeso that it is facing the suction fitting. Take a measurementbetween the two elbows, taking into account the socket of eachelbow. Cut the remaining pipe to that length.

When the entire system is dry fit and it has been verified that all parts for the entire configuration fit together properly, it isokay to then glue together all of the joints in the UV Sanitizer plumbing configuration.

Optional Underwater Lights

Please refer to and follow all instructions on the included draw-ing, “Hole Cutting Pattern for Typical Through Wall Fittings,Lights, and Jets Suction” for the hole locations (that werealready cut in a previous step) to begin the installation of theoptional underwater LED lights. Please refer to the UnderwaterLights Supplemental Guide for additional information on instal-lation and maintenance.

Optional Hydrotherapy Jets

Please refer to and follow all instructions on the included draw-ing, “Hole Cutting Pattern for Typical Through Wall Fittings,Lights, and Jets Suction” for the hole locations (that werealready cut in a previous step) to begin the installation of theoptional hydrotherapy jets. Please refer to the Fiberglass EndlessPool Hydrotherapy Jets Supplemental Guide for additional infor-mation on installation of the jet bodies, venturi suction, jet pump,and plumbing.

Installing the Isolation Cover

Place the isolation cover over heater controller and the circula-tion pump. Use the provided screws to attach the cover to theheater controller mounting board through the slotted holes.

Installing the Swim Propulsion Unit

Assembling the Propulsion Housing

1 Carefully unpack the swim unit from its boxes. Make sure toremove any hardware packs from the boxes as well. The pack-aging can be collapsed and used as a protective surface uponwhich to assemble the Fastlane. The foam packing materialcan be used to wedge under the base to prevent it from tippingover.

2 Take care when handling or working with any of the stainlesssteel components of the swim unit. The ends can be sharp. Thefirst step is to remove the two circular end caps from each sideof the cylindrical base. There are 3 arced cover strips aroundthe perimeter of the end cap. Unthread the nine screws thatsecure the cover strips (3 screws per cover strip). There willbe a stainless steel wire connecting the end cap to the base.The wire can be disconnected to make assembly of the uniteasier. If disconnected, the wire must be re-attached when re-assembled. Repeat this step for the other side of the stain-less steel base. Carefully set each end cap aside (Fig 6.1).

3 Uncoil the two lengths of hydraulic hose that are attached tothe cylindrical base. Make sure that the hoses are seated intotheir respective notches in the backside of the base (Fig 6.2).

4 Remove the throat from the upper housing. There are twoscrews on each side of the throat. Pull the throat off of thehousing and set it aside. Pull the vertical water-conditioninggrill up and out of the housing. Pull the horizontal grill out of

Repeat this process for the other side of the stainless steel base

Arced Cover Strip

Remove these 9 screws

Screw securing bond wire to circular end cap

Circular End Cap

Bond Wire

Fig. 6.1

Hydraulic Hoses

Notches in the rear of the basefor the hydraulic hoses

Fig. 6.2

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its track and remove from the housing. Make sure to removeand discard the wood 2x4 spacer from the bottom of the hous-ing before proceeding (Fig 6.3).

5 Carefully remove the protective film encasing the upper hous-ing. Place the upper housing into the opening of the cylindri-cal base (Fig 6.4A). The hydraulic hoses connected to the baseshould be aligned with the back of the upper housing. Makesure that the stainless steel bonding wire attached to the motormount is positioned inside of the upper housing.

6 Use the provided stainless steel screws to attach the upperhousing to the base. There will be 4 screws per side (total of8). On each side of the housing, there will be 3 screws secur-ing the upper housing to PVC motor mount support and 1screw attaching the stainless steel reinforcing support to thehousing just above the 3 previous screws (Fig 6.4B).

7 Carefully lay the Fastlane onto its front face. Run thehydraulic hoses up the back of the upper housing. The two hatchannels will be placed over the hydraulic hoses. Make surethat the mounting hole in the end of the hat channel is facingup and that the bottom of the hat channel has been insertedinto the notch in the cylindrical base. Use the provided 3/4"stainless steel screws to attach the hat channels to the upperhousing. There will be eight screws per hat channel (Fig 6.5).

6.8 Pull any excess hose out of the hat channel. Attach the twohoses to the top of the upper housing. There are 2 green hoseclamps attached to the top of the housing. The screws that are securing the clamps to the housing will have to beremoved in order to secure the hoses to the clamps (Fig 6.6).

Fig. 6.3

Bond Wire

Fig. 6.4

Repeat this process for theother side of the Fastlane

1" Stainless Steel Screw(4 per side)

Fig. 6.4B

Throat

Horizontal WaterConditioning Grill

Vertical WaterConditioning Grill

3/4” Stainless Steel Screws x16

Fig. 6.5

Wall Mount Fastlane

Green Hose Clamps

Fig. 6.6

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6.9 Slide the horizontal water-conditioning grill back into itstrack inside the housing. The horizontal grill is the wider ofthe two grills (Fig 6.7).

10 Install the stainless steel grab bar to the upper housing usingthe provided stainless steel screws and lock nuts. Feed thestainless steel wire attached to the motor mount up throughthe horizontal grill. Then feed the wire up between two of theturning vanes. Place the stainless steel wire (from the motormount in the base) around the bottom screw on the left sidebefore tightening down on the nut. Place the second stainlesssteel wire (that exits the top rear of the upper housing) aroundanother screw before tightening down on the nut.

6.11 Reattach the throat (removed in step 4) to the upper hous-ing. Again, there will be 2 screws on either side of thethroat (Fig 6.9).

6.12 Slide the vertical water-conditioning grill back down intothe housing (Fig 6.10).

13 Re-install the circular end caps. Make sure that the “smooth”surface of the end caps are facing out. If the stainless steelwire from the base to the end cap was removed, then it mustbe reattached at ths time. Align the end caps to the internalPVC supports so that the holes in the internal supports arealigned with holes in the end caps. Position the arced coverstrips over the end caps, making sure to align the hole in thearced cover strips with the holes in the stainless end caps andthe internal PVC supports. Install the nine screws (3 percover strip) that were removed in step 6.2. Repeat for theremaining end cap (Fig 6.11).

14 Once the Fastlane is installed in the pool, place the housing lidonto the housing and use the provided screws to attach. Therewill be three screws per side, for a total of six (Fig 6.12).

Fig. 6.8

Fig. 6.9

Slide the HorizontalGrill back into place

Fig. 6.7Fig. 6.10

Repeat this process on the other side of the Fastlane

Fig. 6.11

Fig. 6.12

Mounting the Propulsion Housing to the Pool Wall

Now that the Propulsion Housing has been assembled andattached to its base, it is time to hang the unit on the wall of theFiberglass Endless Pool shell. There are two 3/8” mountingbolts that are protruding through the pool wall (the bolts werepreviously installed in the section titled, Attaching theMounting Bolts), and there are two large holes in the top of thechannels that run along the back of the Propulsion Housing. Theholes in these channels are to be fit over the mounting bolts sothat the Propulsion Housing can hang on these bolts.

Remove the 3/8" jam nut, lock washer, and flat washer that wereloosely threaded onto each of the protruding bolts for safekeep-ing (in section titled, Attaching the Mounting Bolts) and setthem aside. Using a helper, carefully hoist or carry thePropulsion Unit over the pool wall and set it upright on the floorof the pool so that the back of the unit is facing the front wall ofthe pool shell. Pulling the hydraulic lines away from the chan-nels on the back of the Propulsion Unit so they do not interferewith the mounting bolts, lift the Unit and hang it on the boltsfrom the holes in channels. Once the Propulsion Unit is hangingfrom the bolts, place the flat washer and lock washer over thebolts, and then tighten the jam nuts onto the bolts.

Now, working from outside the pool shell, remove the blackcompression nuts and rubber bushings from the black compres-sion fittings that are threaded into the PVC reducer bushingsand fittings (that were previously installed in the section titled,Attaching Fittings for the Hydraulic Lines”) in the pool shell.Then, from inside the pool and looking straight at thePropulsion Unit, feed the line that runs up the right side of thePropulsion Housing through the fitting on the left, and feed theline that runs up the left side of the Propulsion Housing throughthe fitting on the right. The hydraulic lines should cross overone another on top of the Propulsion Housing, and each shouldbe secured to the lid of the Propulsion Housing using the greenhose clamps that are already attached to the lid.

Again, working from outside the pool shell with the hydrauliclines now fed through the fittings, take the rubber bushings (thatwere removed in the previous step) and squeeze them to fit overthe metal fittings at the end of the hydraulic lines. Next, slidethe black compression nuts over the fittings, and then slide therubber bushings back into the compression nuts. Tighten thenuts on the compression fittings so that the hydraulic lines aresqueezed by the rubber bushings. When the pool is set in placeand ready to be connected to the Hydraulic Power Unit (HPU),an adapter will thread into the fittings at the ends of thesehydraulic lines, and the adapter will thread into another set ofhydraulic lines that will run back to the HPU.

Fully Above Ground Fiberglass Endless Pool Details

The load of a standard depth Fiberglass Endless Pool withoptional External Freestanding Frame is approximately 300pounds per square foot. This makes it impractical to install thepool on a typical wood-frame structure without special con-struction techniques. Therefore, the preferred site for an above-ground installation is a level concrete slab. Pouring a reinforcedconcrete slab may involve:

• Leveling and possibly excavating a small part of the site

• Selecting an appropriate sub-base material and desired thickness

• Compacting that sub-base

• Determining the slab dimensions and type of reinforcement to be used

• Creating formwork

• Placing reinforcement

• Pouring the slab

Many of these issues can be dependent upon soil or earth con-ditions on the site, so it is important to check with local codesto determine if your site (either alone, or with the slab or plat-form) is capable of supporting this load before proceeding.

If your pool will be installed next to an existing wall, providefor at least 12" from the inner surface of the pool wall (at the topof the pool) to the existing wall. More clearance is needed foraccess to the plumbing for hydrotherapy jets if they are beinginstalled above the bench on the rear wall of the pool. Asdetailed in the Fiberglass Endless Pool Planning Guide, a spacethat is minimally 24" back from the inside wall of the pool by24" down from the top flange of the pool is recommended at thefront of the pool for water quality system plumbing access.

Fully and Partially In-Ground Fiberglass Endless Pool Details

A partially in-ground Endless Pool should extend out of theground no more than 18" without the optional structural brac-ing. Do not install a Fiberglass Endless Pool (without theoptional External Freestanding Frame) more than 18" out of theground, as this will compromise the structural stability of thepool’s walls, causing the fiberglass to crack.

Tools Required and (Possible) NecessaryEquipment, supplied by others

Backhoe, crane, or other means of lifting pool shell

Vibratory compactor

Manual tamper

Shovels, rakes, picks

Garden hose with 6' long 1/2" diameter PVC tube

Carpenters level and 2x4 or edging for leveling/screeting

Stakes and hammer to drive into the ground, 2x enough

string for outside perimeter of pool

Tape measure, drill, hole saw, wrenches, sockets

11

12

Materials Required

Cubic yards of sand (depending on accuracy of

base excavation)

Concrete for collar

Rebar to reinforce concrete collar

Cubic yards of loose easily compacted backfill (amount

depends on accuracy of excavation)

NOTE: Be sure to thoroughly review and understand the sectiontitled, Fiberglass Endless Pool General Installation Information(located at the beginning of this document) before proceedingany further with the pool project, as it contains basic informa-tion about how pool and excavated pit depth relate to finishwork, drainage, site conditions, etc.

Lifting and Moving the Fiberglass Endless Pool Shell

Pre-Planning

Be sure to consider the weather conditions when planning theproject. Heavy rains right before or immediately after diggingthe pit can compromise the walls and the stability of the bottomof the pit. If a sand or sub-base material is placed in the pit andit rains before the pool is set, the stability of the sub-base can bedisturbed. Additionally, it is dangerous to attempt to lift the poolinto place if weather conditions include rain or wind, and thepool should not be set in the ground and kept unfilled or unfin-ished either. Heavy rains may lead to standing water in the bot-tom of the pit. Such a condition can float the pool out of the pit,and also ruin the sub-base.

Site Preparation

Preparing to Dig

Once the final elevation of the pool has been decided upon, thesite needs to be prepared for excavation. First, a footprint of thepool needs to be painted on the site so that a visual perimeter ofwhere the pool will be located is clearly shown. The next step isto pound stakes into the ground around (outside of) the perime-ter of the footprint that was painted on the ground. The tops ofthe stakes need to be higher than what will be the final elevationof all pool and finish work (including pool, coping, decking,etc.). Tie a string around the perimeter of the stakes at this final elevation height.

From the elevation of this string, subtract the thicknesses of anyfinish work, height of pool and thickness of sand base to deter-mine the depth of the hole that needs to be excavated.Depending on local soil conditions, it may be necessary to digslightly deeper to include a sub-base underneath the compactedsand (if unsure of this, find a local contractor, excavator, civilengineer, or someone who has experience with local soil condi-tions). It is important to BE CERTAIN that the depth of the holeis not going to go beneath the top of the water table. If it is, thescope of the project needs to be changed significantly to preventgroundwater from floating the pool out of the ground.Additionally, it is critical to remember to notify the local one-call service a number of days in advance of the planned exca-vation to give them time to schedule a visit and assess the site.

Digging the Pit

Once the necessary pit depth has been determined, and the one-call service has been notified and they have verified that thereare no utilities running through the proposed location, it is timeto start excavating. Ideally, the pit should only be over dug byabout six inches on all sides of the pool shell (a total over dig ofone foot in length and width each direction). An exception forthe six inches should be taken when considering the front of thepool where an access vault must be maintained for the WaterQuality System on fully in-ground installations. The vaultdimensions should be 24" down from the top flange of the poolshell and 24" back from the water’s edge, and should be as longas the pool is wide. Illustrations and details of this can be foundin the Fiberglass Endless Pool Planning Guide. Work back fromthe elevation of the string that is tied around the stakes to deter-mine how deep the remainder of the pit needs to be excavated.

Planning the Sub-Base

After the pit has been dug, it is very important to accurately laythe sand base so that it will adequately support the pool for itslifespan. Although sand is the most common material used forbackfill, other materials such as a washed sand backfill, flow-able fill, pea gravel or other easily compacted aggregate can beused as well. Depending on soil conditions and the accuracy ofthe dig, a 2" to 4" layer of sand spread over the pool’s footprintis often adequate. The purpose of the sand is to provide a levelbase on which the pool will sit, to equalize any discrepancies inthe elevation of the pit and to protect the bottom of the pool (bypreventing any sharp objects such as rocks or roots from dam-aging it). For the Fiberglass Endless Pool, the required volumeof material to accomplish this equates to no more than threecubic yards, and can easily be ordered from a local landscaper,garden center, quarry, or similar type of facility.

Laying the Sand in the Pit

Be sure that no loose debris remains around the perimeter of thepit opening or in the walls of the excavated pit. In the bottom ofthe pit, it is important to pound stakes into the ground again,similar to what was done around the perimeter of the pool ear-lier. This time, the string will help determine the top elevationof the sand base material (the elevation of the bottom of thepool) in the pit. The accuracy of the uniform thickness of sandbase (once it is spread out) will be dependent upon the precisionof the excavation. It is acceptable for the sand to have differentthicknesses throughout the footprint, but sand must cover theentire area of the pool’s footprint. The sand in this footprint areamust be compacted (a walk-behind vibratory plate compactorcan be used) and then screeded level to the strings after com-paction. It is possible that more sand may be required after theinitial compaction in order to bring the thickness of the sand upto the level of the strings. A shovel, a straight piece of edging ora 2x4 (preferably the width of the pool), and a carpenter’s levelare all that should be required to screed the sand properly. Besure to REMOVE THE STAKES and string after the sand padis compacted and determined to be level. Double check to seethat there is no debris that can fall back into the pit once thesand pad has been prepared.÷

13

Lifting the Pool

Caution about Weather Conditions

Once all of the necessary plumbing and preparations have beenmade, the pool can be lifted into place. Do not attempt to cranepool into place in windy conditions. Additionally, it is importantto be sure that there is no water pooling in the pool shell as thiscan shift, making the pool unstable and harder to transport.

Lifting / Hoisting Preparations

It is critical to use each of the chain lengths (found around theperimeter of the pool shell’s top flange) as lift points when mov-ing the Fiberglass Endless Pool. These chains that have beenglassed into the pool shell’s to be used as connection points forlifting the pool. Clevis pins or D-shackles and webbing, slingstraps, or rope of the appropriate thickness can be attached tothese chain links to lift the pool in the air, and guide ropes canalso be tied to these locations so that they can be used to maneu-ver the pool once it is suspended in the air. It is easier, and moreimportantly, safer, to use guide ropes than to push on the poolbody when it is suspended.

Depending on the type of lifting machine and its method ofhoisting, spreader bars may also be needed to prevent the ropeor webbing from excessively pulling the side walls of the poolinward, potentially overstressing the fiberglass shell and caus-ing it to crack. Always plan the pool shell’s travel path in the airbefore lifting, try to minimize the number of obstacles that itwill need to clear while in the air, and always avoid lifting thepool shell over anyone’s head while moving it through the air.It is critical to begin by lifting the pool very slowly and check-ing the straps or ropes to be sure that they are securely holdingthe pool body.

Lifting / Craning the Pool into Place

Once sure that all straps are properly in place, lift the pool andslowly lower it into the prepared pit or onto the existing slab orplatform. Be careful not to have the pool bump or get snaggedon the sides of the excavated pit. Slowly set the pool in itsdesired location, but do not disconnect the straps or ropes with-out verifying that the pool is level.

Once the pool is set and resting in place (with no tension in anyof the straps), use a surveyor’s transit and rod (if available) toverify that the elevation is the same for all four corners of thepool. If that equipment is unavailable, it is possible to accom-plish the same result using stakes in the ground with string tiedbetween them, a carpenter’s level (longer is better) and a tapemeasure. Set the string level between the stakes, and use thetape to measure down from the strings to the top of the fiber-glass flange, and if necessary, make the appropriate adjustments(as detailed in the section titled, Setting and Leveling the Poolin the Pit) so that the pool is set in place and resting level. Thestraps or ropes (and if used, spreader bars) should only be dis-connected from the lift points, and the crane operator canreleased from the site only when certain that all corners of thepool are level, and that the shell is in its exact desired location.

Setting and Leveling the Pool in the Pit

If one corner of the pool shell is too high, it can be lowered byhaving a person climb into the pool and gently jump up anddown in the corner. This will compress the sand underneath thatcorner, hopefully leveling the corner that was too high. It is bet-ter to attempt to do this in small increments while checking theelevation frequently. If the corner that was too high thenbecomes too low, the entire shell will need to be raised and moresand will need to be added underneath that same corner.

If one corner starts out too low, more sand must be added under-neath the pool in that area to provide more support to that lowcorner. For some cases where the height difference is off by adimension of less than one inch, the corner of the pool can belifted slightly (with a lever and fulcrum or a jack) and more sandcan be poured down the side of the pool and washed underneaththat part of the pool shell with a hose. Refer to the section titled,Backfilling the Voids for more information on how to use a hoseto wash the sand into place. For cases where the height differ-ence is off by a dimension greater than one inch, the pool willlikely need to be lifted from the pit and more sand added with ashovel. Similarly, if one or more corners are too high and gen-tly jumping in the corners is not enough to compress the sandand level the corners, the pool will need to be removed from thepit to allow a worker to get in the hole to either rake or removesome sand.

Once the corners are level, set the pool shell in place and walkaround the bottom of the pool shell to feel any areas where thefloor has some bounce or spring to it. These areas, when com-pressed by a person’s weight, should rest on the sand sub-baseand feel solid. The fiberglass bottom of the shell should neverfeel unsupported when it is compressed under a person’sweight. If that is ever the case, be sure to add extra sand under-neath to support that area.

Only disconnect the lifting / hoisting mechanisms from the liftpoints and release the crane operator from the site when certainthat the pool shell is in its exact desired location, all corners ofthe pool are level, and there are no unsupported voids under-neath the shell.

Filling and Backfilling Around the Pool

Backfilling

Before starting to backfill the pool shell and fill it with water, itis important to verify that no plumbing parts were damagedwhile moving the pool. As the pool fills, the water level shouldbe kept approximately one foot above the level of the compact-ed backfill outside the pool wall.

One reason why the pool must be filled ahead of the backfill isthat, in the event of rain after the pool is set in the place, theground water around and underneath the pool may be enough tofloat the pool out of place. By keeping the pool water level high-er than the backfill level, the pool water level is also kept high-er than the potential ground water level, thus preventing theshell from floating out of the ground and causing a major incon-venience to deal with now that crane is no longer on site.

Another reason to have the pool filled ahead of the backfill isthat if the backfill were compacted above the pool water level,there would be no water pressure to prevent the pool’s wallsfrom bowing inward from the pressure of the backfill. The rea-son it is important to compact the backfill is that the pool waterexerts a large amount of hydrostatic pressure on the pool walls,

14

and that pressure would cause the walls to bulge outward if theywere unsupported. Bulging pool walls can force the top flangeto bend and possibly compromise the structural stability of thepool, causing the fiberglass to crack. In order to prevent thisfrom happening, the compacted backfill must be capable ofwithstanding the hydrostatic pressure that the water exerts onthe pool’s walls.

Backfilling the Voids

Clean and loose fill that is easily compacted (sand) should beused to backfill the pool in the pit. A vibratory compactor or aplate compactor can be used to achieve the desired compactedconditions. Sometimes the loose earth (from when the pit wasexcavated) can be used for backfill, but often it is not the cor-rect soil type. It may be necessary to consult with a civil engi-neer or landscape architect to determine if it can be used.Alternatively, pea-gravel type sand will likely suffice for thispurpose. Depending on the negative cavities created by featuresin the pool (such as stairs, benches, etc.), extra sand may beneeded for the job and should be ordered ahead of time to avoiddelays. The sand can be washed into the difficult to reach areasusing a garden hose attached to a narrow piece of PVC pipe.Ideally, enough water would be used for this purpose so thatthere is more than a trickle coming from the PVC pipe, but notso much that water is visibly pooling on top of the sand. Thereshould be enough water to create a “soupy looking” sand mix-ture. The pipe can be rammed into the sand, and the water canhelp the sand flow into those difficult to reach cavities. Also, theend of a 2x4 can be used to tamp the soil or sand in places wherea compactor cannot be used. It is important that the void under-neath the stairs be fully backfilled.

Project Completion

If the pool is fully in-ground, a reinforced concrete collar shouldbe poured around the top flange of the pool. Make sure that theconcrete flows underneath and around the edges of the topflange of the pool to ensure maximum strength. If the pool ispartially in-ground, then the collar should be poured around thepool so that it is flush with grade (and also no more than 18”below the top flange of the fiberglass). After the collar hascured, any additional plumbing work or desired decking, finishwork, landscaping, etc. can be completed.

Note on Filling the Pool

If filling the pool with water from a truck, it may be necessaryto have the truck wait while the backfill is properly compactedaround the perimeter of the shell. This is because the truck willlikely be capable of filling the pool at a rate that is much fasterthan the rate at which one can backfill the voids around theperimeter of the pool (keeping the backfill one foot below thewater level). If using a garden hose or some other low-pressureline to fill the pool, it is likely that the issue of filling too fastwithout backfill will not be a problem. Once the pool is filledplease refer to the section titled, Operations and MaintenanceUser’s Guide at the end of this manual for more information onhow to balance the water chemistry and maintain water qualityover time.

Power Unit Assembly

The power unit should be placed on a flat and level surface. Ifthe power unit is to be placed outside, we recommend selectingour Outdoor Power Unit with Weather Guard to protect itagainst everyday elements. Whether placed indoors or outdoors,this is an air-cooled unit and must have ample ventilation.Therefore, a minimum of 12" of air spaced must be provided onall sides of the power unit. In addition, the power unit needs tobe check periodically for maintenance and should be accessible.

The power unit is heavy, cared should be taken when placingthe power unit.

Once the power unit is in place, connect the run hoses. The low-pressure hose, which red tape wrapped around the fitting,gets connected to the connection on the black fill cap. The high-pressure hose gets connected to the fitting on the high-pressure manifold.

Make sure that the power is turned off to the power unit.Remove the black fill cap and remove the oil filter by lifting itout of fill opening. Use the provided paper funnels and fill thereservoir to with in 2" of the top. Once filled, replace the oil fil-ter and ensure that it is seated properly before putting the fill capback on. If you have selected a longer run hose, we have pro-vided extra fluid. In this case, turn the unit on and let it run forone minute to fill the run hoses. Turn the power off, remove thefill cap and oil filter, and add fluid as needed. Again, you wantto fill the reservoir to within 2" of the top.

The power unit controller comes equipped with an automatictimer shutting off the system 30 minutes after receiving its lastcommand. Because the controller "remembers" the last speed atwhich is turned off, it will return to that same pace when it isturned back on.

Optional Antenna Extension

Your Swim Unit remote control operates by radio waves.Should the hydraulic Power Unit be placed too far away fromthe Fiberglass Endless Pool, your remote control may not oper-ate efficiently. To operate the current more effectively, pleaseinstall the antenna remotely with the enclosed kit. A longer lengthof coaxial cable can be used if you move the antenna closer toyour pool.

Parts List

• 10' length of coaxial antenna cable

• Coaxial grounding block (antenna mount)

Instructions

• If the antenna is already installed, detach it from the upper left hand side of the Controller Box mounted on the foot of the motor.

• Attach and finger-tighten the antenna cable.

• Attach the coaxial grounding block (antenna mount) to thesurface where the electrical disconnect box is mounted.

• The antenna should be just above the height of the box so thatthe metal box does not block the radio waves for your remotecontrol. NOTE: The antenna can be placed even closer to thepool by purchasing antenna cable from a local supplier.

• Attach and finger-tighten the antenna to the upper end of thecoaxial grounding block (antenna mount).

Hydraulic Hose Connections

If your hydraulic hose is to be run underground, then both hosesshould be run in conduit. The conduit should terminate at thespace at the front of the pool. Your electrical whip can runthrough the same conduit.

Install the long hydraulic hoses between the Power Unit andhydraulic hoses at the front of the pool. Endless Pools, Inc. sup-plies these hoses to the length specified. Often they are notshipped with the pool, as the exact length is unknown at thetime of shipment. Please order these hoses a week before theyare needed to allow shipment by UPS ground. Two hoses up to25 feet in length are supplied at no additional charge. It is bestto use hoses close to the length you need rather than simplygoing with the standard 25 feet. Lengths in excess of 25 feetcost $5 per foot, e.g. two 40 foot hoses cost 15 feet x $5 = $75.

Remove the protective plugs and connect the 2 hydraulic hosesto the 2 ports on the Power Unit and tighten firmly. Do not over-tighten. The hose connecting to the fill cap on the Power Unit isthe return (low pressure) hose, which gets connected to the low-est hydraulic hose at the front panel. The high-pressure hose,which is connected to the fitting on blue high-pressure manifold,connects to the higher hose at the front of the pool. The hosesthat go through the panels are a smaller diameter than your runhose, you will find adapter in the electrical whip box to makethese connections. If the hoses you ordered are too short and youneed longer hoses, call Customer Service. Extra care should betaken that these hoses are cushioned when they pass by anythingthat could reverberate. This will ensure a quieter installation.Use simple pipe insulation and clips for this purpose.

Wiring

One 220 volt 30 amp GFCI circuit is all that is required to oper-ate the Endless Pool. A minimum of 10AWG wire should beused for all field wiring. All connections should be made by alicensed electrician. Endless Pools will provide an electricalwhip to connect the power unit controller to the heater con-troller poolside.

We recommend that you have your electrician install a shut off within 5' of where you intend to place your power unit. You can have your electrician install this prior to your pool being delivered.

Power is supplied to the system by connecting the existing whip on the power unit control box to the shut off installed byyour electrician.

Power the pool-side heater controller by connecting the whipsupplied to both the power unit control box and the heater-con-troller through the appropriate knockouts in these respectiveunits. Specifically, inside the power unit control box, connectthe black wire to terminal R2 on the line (left) side of the con-tactor, connect the red wire to R3 on the load (right) side of thecontactor, connect the green wire to the ground bus bar, and thewhite wire junctions with the white wire coming from the shutoff using a wire nut.

Connect the heater controller by attaching the black wire to theL1 terminal, the red wire to the L2 terminal, the white wire tothe N terminal, and the green wire to the G terminal.

If your electrical whip is to be run underground, then it should be run in conduit. The conduit should terminate at the space at the front of the pool. Your hydraulic hoses can run through thesame conduit.

Refer to the Wiring Diagram at the end of this book.

Bonding and Grounding

All of the electrical equipment that we supply is UL or CSAapproved and must be installed in accordance with local elec-tric codes by a licensed local electrician. Bonding andGrounding is an important part of that process. All electricalcomponents have bonding lugs and should be bonded togetherand to the steel pool panels, including the Swim Unit in thepool. A bonding conductor shall be solid copper not smallerthan 8 AWG and may be insulated, covered or bare. If new con-struction is involved where reinforcing rods are installed in theconcrete under or adjacent to the pool this should be includedin the bonding circuit. Each of the pieces of equipment shouldbe separately grounded.

Using your Swim Unit

You are now ready to start up your Swim Unit. Remove theremote from the Controller Box on the hydraulic Power Unitand unwrap it. Press and hold the ON/OFF button to turn on thecurrent. The Swim Unit features 52 incremental steps in speed.Press and release the FASTER button to increase the speed ofthe current one step at a time. Alternatively, press and continueto hold the FASTER button to ramp up the speed until the but-ton is released or the maximum speed is achieved. Reduce thespeed in the same manner using the SLOWER button.

Turn off the current by again pressing the ON/OFF button.Because the Swim Unit “remembers” the speed at which it wasturned off, it will return to the same speed when it is turnedback on. NOTE: The circuit card on the hydraulic Power Unitis programmed to ramp the speed of the current down beforecompletely shutting off and ramp the speed back up when turn-ing the current it back on. The hydraulic Power Unit controlleris equipped with an automatic timer shutting off the systemthirty minutes after receiving its last command.

Operations and Maintenance User’s Guide

Included with your Fiberglass Endless Pool are products to helpwith start-up and on-going maintenance. These include:

(1) Container calcium hardness increaser(1) Container water clarifier(1) Container pH decreaser(1) Container pH increaser(1) Container total alkalinity increaser(1) Container vinyl cleaner(1) Test kit(1) Container stabilized chlorine (outdoor pools)

Overview

The Fiberglass Endless Pool is a combination of several inde-pendent systems. The “swim current system” is comprised of a16” propeller that rotates at variable speeds and is adjusted byremote control. The operation of the swim current system isdescribed later in this start-up section. A second system main-tains the water quality by circulating, filtering, heating, andpurifying the water. This “Water Quality System” (WQS) iscomprised of the pump, filter, and heater. The Hydrotherapyjets and a supplementary pump comprise a third system.

Endless Pools will provide toll free technical support during theinstallation and start-up of your swimming machine. Weencourage you to become familiar with the equipment andcomponents, in order to properly maintain the pool.

15

Filling your Endless Pool

Your Pool Water

As with any swimming pool, a Fiberglass Endless Pool requireswater chemistry monitoring. The water quality system, whichincludes automated circulating, heating, and filtration, does most of the work for you. However, balancing and maintaining your pool water is essential to the life and health ofyour equipment.

Your Source of Water

Endless Pools, Inc. recommends testing a sample of waterbefore you begin to fill the pool. Doing so will give you an ideaof how suitable your water source is for swimming pool use.Testing the water can be done by using your Taylor test kit. Alocal swimming pool supply store can also test your water at aminimal charge. Take a copy of the “Water Chemistry TestingLog” with you.

Well Water

Certain geographic areas are high in mineral content. For poolswhere well water is to be the water source, strong considerationshould be given to having water tanked in. Well water often hashigh iron, calcium, and mineral content which is not ideal foryour swimming pool. If well water is the only available source,please call our Customer Service Department, or seek advicefrom a local pool store.

“Hard” Water and Water Softeners

The phrase “hard” water refers to having high levels of calciumin the water. Many homes that have “hard” water will oftenhave a water softener installed in their homes that lowers thelevel of calcium in the water. For ideal water conditions in apool, the calcium hardness level should be between 180-250ppm. Please call us to discuss your options if you have a watersoftener and/or high calcium in your water supply.

Oxidation and Chlorine Requirements

Maintaining a minimum level of 0.5 ppm free chlorine in yourpool at all times is necessary. Adding 1/2 cup of Clorox a daywill add about 0.5 ppm of free chlorine to a standard sized pool.How quickly that chlorine is consumed depends upon watertemperature, bather load, and the amount of direct sunlight thepool receives.

Chlorine Stabilizer and Outdoor Pools

Your Taylor test kit comes equipped with testing procedures forcyanuric acid. Cyanuric acid is a chlorine stabilizer, meaning itprotects chlorine from getting broken down by sunlight. If yourpool is located outdoors, we recommend using the granularform of stabilized chlorine (Should have an active ingredient ofsodium dichlor) instead of Clorox. Another option would be tosupplement Clorox by adding cyanuric acid. Either method willnecessitate testing for cyanuric acid every two weeks. Thesechemicals are readily available at any pool supply store.

Chlorine Stabilizer and Indoor Pools

Many customers are sold a stabilized chlorine product for use intheir indoor Endless Pool. Endless Pools would not recommendthis practice, as Clorox bleach is ideal for this setting. Using a

stabilized chlorine source is more expensive, and it also requiresthe periodic testing for cyanuric acid levels. If the level gets toohigh, it can render the chlorine ineffective, and it may necessi-tate the partial draining of the pool in order to lower the levels.

Alternatives to Chlorine

Although some alternative Sanitization systems can be usedwith a Fiberglass Endless Pool, the following precautions mustbe followed:

• Under NO circumstances can salt chlorine-generating systemsbe used in a Fiberglass Endless Pool.

• Bacquacil systems damage clear plastic products. Light lens-es and pump strainer lids will crack.

• Bromine can be used, but special attention must be paid toyour pH levels

• Please call Customer Service with any questions about alternate systems.

Pool and Equipment Start-Up

The pool is full when the water level completely covers thehoneycomb grills where the current is produced. A water level1/2" or more lower than this can cause air to get pulled throughthe skimmer into the WQS plumbing lines. This can lead toproblems with the filter, and can also cause your heater to workintermittently. A water level 1” or more higher than the top ofthe grills can lead to more water getting splashed out of thepool, as well as water weeping out of the air relief valve on thetop of the skimmer body.

Once the pool is full and all connections are made, the waterquality system can be started.

Your WQS pump is programmed to run continuously, meaningthat your pool is receiving automated circulation and filtration(through the skimmer/filter) 24 hours a day. The temperature ofyour pool is controlled by the up and down keys on your key-pad. Additional information about the operation of your WQSis available in the Supplemental Guide.

Test your pool water now with the kit provided and/or take asample of water to a local pool professional for testing. The testkit provided by Endless Pools tests for chlorine, pH, total alka-linity, calcium hardness and cyanuric acid. While the test kitmay first seem intimidating, simply follow the instructions onthe underside of the test kit lid. These instructions walk youthrough each of the tests step by step, and they are color codedwith the appropriate reagent bottles to use for that test.

When performing the water quality tests, write down yourresults on the log sheet provided at the end of this bulletin. Wewould strongly urge you to make copies of these blank logs foruse in the future. Any observations, chemical additions, oractions taken should also be noted. While it may seem a bittedious, all of this information will prove invaluable in theevent of a water quality problem, or when you go to make sim-ilar adjustments to the water chemistry in the future.

During this start-up period, which will last a few days, you willneed to “Balance” the pool water by following the instructionslisted below. After this initial start-up period, the testing proce-dures and emphasis are a little bit different, and they areexplained in the “Maintaining your Endless Pool” instructionsa few pages later in this bulletin.

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Floating Thermal Cover

Endless Pools, Inc. provides a lightweight cover for theFiberglass Endless Pool, if a retractable security cover has notbeen purchased. This cover floats on the water surface, insulat-ing the pool while preventing evaporation. Consistent use ofthis cover will keep the water cleaner, save energy, and helpcontrol humidity. The cover should be completely removedfrom the water before the machine is used. Replacement coversare available from our Customer Service Department. Thecover, once cut to size and installed on the PVC pipe, rolls outonto the water surface.

Balancing the Pool Water

The following steps need to be followed when the pool is firstfilled, as well as anytime the pool is partially drained andrefilled. They will walk you through testing and adjusting thefactors affecting the “balance” of the water i.e., the water’s totalalkalinity, pH and calcium hardness levels.

The level of chlorine inside the pool, as long as it is not above5ppm, will not significantly affect the following tests and pro-cedures used to balance the pool water. Therefore, if there is nochlorine in the pool at this time, add some. Add 1-2 cups of liq-uid bleach (any brand is fine as long as it does not have an addedscent to it) to an indoor pool. If you have an outdoor pool, addthe appropriate amount of granules out of the bag of “stabilized”chlorine. Test for chlorine in a day or two and add more if nec-essary.

1) Balance Total Alkalinity (TA)

Ideal reading: 100ppmAcceptable range: 80-120ppmRaise with: Sodium Bicarbonate (TA increaser)Lower with: Sodium Bisulfate (pH decreaser)

Method of chemical application:

• Adjusting the level of TA in the pool requires that the chemi-cal be “slugged” i.e. pour chemical in four different spotsaround the pool with the water calm. Let the water remaincalm until the next filtration cycle.

• Retest TA and adjust again if necessary.

• Add less chemical than you think is necessary to effect thedesired change. Keep track of how much chemical it took tomake that change.

Notes:Many regions of the country and world will have water with aTA higher than our recommended range. In a lot of cases, it willbe desirable to leave the TA alone as any adjustment to it willalso tend to affect the pH. The TA is mainly serving as a bufferfor the pH. If it is above 120ppm, but lower than 200-250ppm,leave the level alone. It will simply over-stabilize the pH, whichis not a problem, especially if the pH is within range or close tobeing within range.

If the TA is lower than our recommended range, though, wewould recommend increasing it to at least 80ppm. Once again,the TA serves mainly as a buffer for the pH and if the TA is toolow, the pH level in the pool can change very rapidly causingbather discomfort and damage to the pool and pool equipment.

Once the TA is within a tolerable range, move on to adjustingthe pH in the pool. You should find that the TA will be pretty

slow to change—for this reason, test for it once a week asdetailed in the “Maintenance and Use of your FiberglassEndless Pool” instructions found later in this guide.

2) Balance pH

Ideal reading: 7.5Acceptable range: 7.4-7.8Raise with: sodium carbonate (pH increaser)Lower with: sodium bisulfate (pH decreaser)

Method of chemical application:

• Measure out and pour your dosage of chemical directly intothe swim current. Afterwards, make sure you wash somewater on the propulsion housing to ensure that no granules areresting on the benches. Test and apply more chemical as nec-essary.

Notes:It is very important to keep the pH within range. If the level istoo low, severe damage can occur to the pool liner and the sub-merged hydraulic motor, and the pool equipment. If the level istoo high, damage can occur to the liner, and it can make thewater prone to “scaling,” when minerals and metals dissolvedin the water will be dropped out of solution and on to the bench-es and liner. Having the pH too high or too low may causebather discomfort in the form of eye or skin irritation.

The pH will change slowly over the course of a week or two.The number of bathers and the type of chlorine used are justtwo factors that will cause the pH to change. For this reason, pHshould be tested three times a week and adjusted as needed. Seethe “Maintenance and Use of your Endless Pool” instructionsfound later in this guide for further details.

Once the pH is within range, move on to adjusting the calciumhardness.

3) Balance Calcium Hardness (CH)

Ideal reading: 180ppmAcceptable range: 175-250ppmRaise with: calcium chloride (calcium hardness increaser)Lower with: water containing less calcium (softened water)

Method of chemical application:

• Fill a clean, five gallon bucket with pool water and dissolvethe dosage of calcium into this water. Do not mix this solutionwith your hands. Pour the solution in to the swim current, andlet the current circulate the water in the pool for a few min-utes. Wait a few hours, test again, and add more calcium ifnecessary. Once again, always add less chemical than youthink will be necessary to effect the desired change.

Notes:As with TA, many regions will have higher CH than what isspecified by our recommended range. If it is available, partial-ly filling the pool with softened water will dilute the calciumcontent and essentially lower the CH level inside the pool. Ifsoftened water is unavailable, perhaps water tanked-in from anoutside source would be the best option for you. If this not pos-sible either, we would strongly suggest adding a “sequesteringagent,” which can be purchased from any local swimming poolretail center. This chemical helps the water hold all of its dis-solved materials in solution, including metals and calcium con-tent. The main concern with having CH levels too high is thatthe calcium may deposit out of solution—a sequestering agentwill help prevent this.

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Calcium hardness will tend to slowly increase over time aswater evaporates from the pool and leaves its calcium behind.Periodic testing of CH is detailed in the “Maintenance and Useof your Endless Pool” instructions below.

Maintenance and Use of Your Endless Pool

We recommend getting into a routine that involves adding ameasured amount of chlorine either after you swim or at thevery least every other day. This measured amount depends onpool use. One person swimming every day for 30 minutesmight add 1/2 cup of Clorox after each swim. This smallamount should maintain the required 0.5 to 1.5 ppm chlorineresidual. Heavier use and use by children generally requiresmore chlorine. Adding 1 cup of Clorox bleach to a standard-sized Endless Pool raises the chlorine level by about 1 ppm. Itis safe to swim in any pool where the chlorine level is between0.5 to 3.0 ppm free chlorine.

Recommended Maintenance Schedule

Daily:• Test for free chlorine (FC) after you swim, or at least a few

times a week. Add chlorine to maintain FC levels between 0.5- 1.5 ppm. As you become familiar with the chlorine demandfor your pool, you will find that you may not have to test forchlorine as frequently in order to maintain a minimum levelof 0.5ppm.

Twice a week:• Check and adjust water level. Water should completely cover

the honeycomb grill where the current is produced. Water1/2” lower than this can create a choppy current and maycause your skimmer to draw air into the plumbing lines.Having the water level 1” or more higher that honey combgrill will cause more water to get splashed out of the pool, andmay cause the air relief port on the top of the skimmer bodyto leak water.

• Test for pH at least twice a week. Broadcast (i.e. pour chemi-cal into current) pH increaser or pH decreaser to maintain lev-els between 7.4-7.8.

Weekly:• Test for total alkalinity (TA) once a week. Slug (i.e. pour

chemical in 4 spots around pool with water calm) TA increas-er or pH decreaser to maintain levels between 80-120. If TAis too high, it is usually not necessary to decrease as it mere-ly serves as a buffer for the pH and will not cause damage inthe pool.

• Test for total chlorine (TC) once a week. If the test for TCyields a result that is significantly higher than level of FC (i.e.the solution gets noticeably more pink) then you have a sig-nificant amount of combined chlorine (CC) in the pool water.Combined chlorine generates a heavy chlorine odor, and cancause bather discomfort in the form of eye and skin irritation.If you have significantly more total chlorine than you do freechlorine, then it is time to shock the pool (i.e. add enoughchlorine to get the FC between 3-5ppm, but don’t swim untilFC falls below 3ppm). Shocking the pool should burn off thecombined chlorine.

Every two weeks:• Test for calcium hardness (CH) once every two weeks.

Predissolve calcium hardness increaser (i.e. fill a 5-gallonbucket with pool water and dissolve calcium in bucket) thenpour the solution into the current to keep levels between 175-250 ppm. If CH is too high, it can only be decreased by addingwater with less calcium (i.e. softened water).

• If you have an outdoor pool, or if you use stabilized chlorine(i.e. sodium dichlor or sodium trichlor), test the cyanuric acid(CYA) level every two weeks. Maintain levels between 20-50ppm. If CYA is above 80 ppm, the pool should be partiallydrained and refilled, or un-stabilized chlorine should be tem-porarily used in place of the stabilized. If CYA is above100ppm, the pool should be partially drained and refilled.

Every two months:• Remove and clean the filter cartridges that are located inside

your skimmer. To access the filter, first remove the skimmerface plate by pulling straight up. Then remove the skimmerbasket. Reach in and unthread the filter. The filter cartridgecan be cleaned either by just rinsing it off or by using a filter-specific detergent. Once it has been cleaned, simplythread the filter back in the skimmer body and replace theskimmer basket and skimmer weir. After several uses, the cartridges will need to be replaced, and new filter cartridgescan be purchased on our Customer Service website, myendlesspool.com.

Every five years: • After five years of operation, we will send you a letter detail-

ing our recommendation that the submerged hydraulic motorbe changed. This procedure does require the pool to bedrained to 6” in the standard-depth section of the pool. Thismay also be a convenient time to replace the propeller or frontgrill in the pool; a list of recommended and optional replace-ment parts is supplied with the tune-up letter.

As Needed:• Clean the water line around the perimeter of the pool and the

underside of the cover as needed. Body oils and mold maybuild up slowly in these areas and should be cleaned off peri-odically.

• The spa wand we provided with your pool can be used to helpremove any debris that has settled on the floor of the poolfloor. If you have an outdoor pool, you may need to removefront grill (from where the swim current is generated) with aPhillips-head screwdriver and clean as necessary. Replacegrill before restarting machine. The Endless Pool must not beoperated with this front grill removed. If this front grill isdamaged, call our Customer Service Department for areplacement.

• If you happen to get cloudy water, or if the pool surfaces feelsslippery, it likely means that you have algae in the pool. Avinyl liner pool brush and pole may be purchased in order towipe down all the surfaces in the pool, Increasing free chlo-rine level temporarily to 5 ppm will help, as will maintainingthe free chlorine level in the pool at 3 ppm until the water isclear. Test the chlorine level frequently during this time.

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Draining your Endless Pool

1) Disconnect electrical power to all pool equipment.

2) Begin to drain down pool water by placing a suitable sumppump in the pool, or by setting up a siphon using a gardenhose. If using a siphon, two or more hoses may be usedsimultaneously in order to expedite the process.

3) When you are ready, refill the pool using a garden hose witha “bobby filter” on the end to screen out debris and fine sed-iment. If you do not have one of these filters, contact EndlessPools Customer Service. If you have high calcium contentand/or high metal content in you area, you should also addsome “sequestering agent” to the pool water to help preventscaling/staining. Once again, if you do not have a bottle ofthis product, contact us and we will send one out to you. Youmay also be able to find both of these items at a local poolstore.

4) The pool is full when the water completely covers the grill atthe front of the pool. Reestablish electrical power to the poolequipment, and start balancing the pool water. Shock thepool to 3.0 ppm free chlorine. Turn on your WQS in order toget your new body of water filtered, circulated, and heated.

Winterizing Your Endless Pool

An Endless Pool may be used year round, even in colder cli-mates. If you will not be using the pool during the winter in anarea where freezing is a problem, special consideration must betaken to protect the pool and ancillary equipment if either islocated outside. If you have any questions regarding precau-tions to take against freezing, please call our Customer ServiceDepartment at (800) 910-2714.

How to Swim in an Endless Pool

Upon initial start up, you will find that the unit has been set toits lowest speed; which is a barely perceivable current. You willneed to increase the speed.

The swim current is turned on through the use of a remote con-trol, which also adjusts the speed of the current faster or slow-er. When changing speed, you must press and hold the buttonson the remote, then wait a few seconds for the current to adjust.Our standard pool's top speed is roughly equivalent to a 1:08100 yard pace -- a speed for expert swimmers only. Set thewater speed at a comfortable level for your needs. Remember,since you don't have to turn in an Endless Pool, your workoutis continuous and you will tire faster than when swimming lapsin a traditional pool.

To stop swimming, simply press the on/off button on theremote. If left running, the power unit will turn off automati-cally after thirty minutes and can be restarted by pressing theon/off button again. Once you have found an optimal speed foryourself, you may leave the system at that setting. The con-troller for the swim machine is designed with a “ramp-up” fea-ture which forces the swim machine to start slowly, but willincrease to the last setting at which someone swam.

When you are first learning to swim in the swim current, it isoften useful to allow yourself to drift back to the rear of thepool. Let your feet rest on the rear bench and then swim for-ward into position. By starting from the back, you can get a feelfor just how much room you have. When swimming, centeryour outstretched arm about one foot from the front grill.

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series of compact full-function keypadsfor in.xe spa systemssingle pump

The Quick Reference Card provides a quick overview of your spa’s main functions and the operations accessible with your digital control pad.

Keypad Functions Troubleshooting

98

key 1 Light key Up key Down Key

Smart winter modeindicator

Jet Pumpindicator

Lightindicator

Filterindicator

Heatindicator

Set Pointindicator

Key 1Press Key 1 key twice to turn the optional jetpump on. Press a third time to turn jets off.

A built-in timer automatically turns pump offafter 20 minutes, unless pump has been manu-ally deactivated first.

The “Pump 1” indicator lights up whenPump 1 is on.

Light KeyPress Light key to turn light on. Press a secondtime to turn light off. A built-in timer auto-matically turns light off after 2 hours, unless ithas been manually deactivated first.

The “Light” indicator lights up when light is on.

Up/Down KeysUse Up or Down key to set desired water temperature. The temperature setting will bedisplayed for 5 seconds to confirm your new selection.

The “Set Point” icon indicates that thedisplay shows the desired temperature,NOT the current water temperature!

Off ModeThis mode allows you to stop all outputs for 30minutes to perform a quick spa maintenance.

Press and hold Key 1 key for 5 secs to activate the Off mode. Quick press Key 1 key to reacti-vate the system before the expiration of the 30-minute delay.

While the Off mode is engaged, the display will toggle between OFF and the water temperature.

98

98

98

HL

AOH

FLO

OH

UPL

OFF

HrAn internal hardware error has beendetected in in.xe. Contact CustomerService.

HLThe system has shut the heater downbecause the temperature at the heaterhas reached 119°F (48°C). Do notenter the water! Remove the spa coverand allow the water to cool down,then shut power off and power yourspa up again to reset the system.

AOHTemperature inside the spa skirt is toohigh, causing the internal temperaturein the in.xe to increase above normallimits. Open skirt and wait until errorclears.

FLOThe system does not detect any waterflow while the primary pump is run-ning. Check and open water valves.Check for water level. Clean filter. Ifthe problem persists, call CustomerService.

PrrA problem is detected with the tem-perature probe.Call Customer Service.

OHThe water temperature in the spa hasreached 108°F (42°C). Do not enterthe water! Remove the spa cover andallow the water to cool down to alower temperature. Call CustomerService if problem persists.

UPLNo low level configuration software hasbeen installed into the system. CallCustomer Service.

Water temperature Smart Winter Mode

In a heating cycle, the system first generates water flow through theheater housing and the plumbing, in order to ensure accurate watertemperature readings as well as avoiding heater activation in dryconditions.

After verifying pump activation and taking a water temperaturereading if required, the system automatically turns the heater on toreach and maintain water temperature at Set Point.

The “Heater” indicator lights up when the heater is on. Itflashes when there is a request for more heat but theheater has not yet started.

Our Smart Winter Mode protects your system from the cold byturning pumps on several times a day to prevent water from freez-ing in pipes.

The “Smart Winter Mode” indicator lights up when the SmartWinter Mode is on.

Purge Cycles

The system is programmed to automatically turn on the optionaljet pump 4 times daily, for 60 seconds, in order to purge the plumb-ing lines and keep plumbing lines filtered clean.

Keypad Functions and Troubleshooting

Power Unit Electrical Wiring Schematic

22

FIBERGLASS ENDLESS POOL™ LIMITED WARRANTY

ENDLESS POOLS, INC. WARRANTS TO THE ORIGINAL PURCHASER OF THE FIBERGLASS ENDLESS POOL MANU-FACTURED BY US TO BE FREE FROM DEFECTS IN MATERIALS AND WORKMANSHIP UNDER NORMAL USE FORTWO YEARS FROM PURCHASE.

Our obligation under the warranty shall be limited to the repair or exchange (at our option) of any part or parts which may thusprove defective under normal use within two years from date of purchase by the original purchaser, and which our examinationshall disclose to our satisfaction to be thus defective. All labor costs for removal and re-installation of the defective part and allfreight charges shall be paid by the purchaser and will not be reimbursed by Endless Pools, Inc. This warranty is expressly in lieuof all other warranties expressed or implied including the warranties of merchantability and fitness for use and of all other obli-gations or liabilities for all damages direct or consequential to person, property or business whether or not occasioned by our neg-ligence, and we neither assume for us any other liability in connection with the sale of this Fiberglass Endless Pool.

IN ADDITION, ENDLESS POOLS, INC. OFFERS A TEN-YEAR STRUCTURAL WARRANTY ON THE FIBERGLASSSHELL STRUCTURE. If the fiberglass shell should deteriorate beyond structural use in this ten-year period, we will repair orreplace the component at our option after inspection of the defective shell. The structural warranty is voided when suitable drainageand proper exterior structural support is not provided. THE GEL-COAT SURFACE OF THE FIBERGLASS SHELL IS WAR-RANTED NOT TO SPLIT, BREAK, CRACK, BLISTER OR MILDEW FOR A PERIOD OF FIVE YEARS. This warranty doesnot include cosmetic damage or minor surface imperfections.

THIS WARRANTY SHALL NOT APPLY TO THIS FIBERGLASS ENDLESS POOL OR ANY PART THEREOF, WHICH HASBEEN SUBJECT TO SALT CHLORINE GENERATORS, ACCIDENT, NEGLIGENCE, FREEZING, IMPROPER INSTALLA-TION OR OPERATION, ALTERATION, ABUSE OR MISUSE. THIS INCLUDES, BUT IS NOT LIMITED TO, FLOWRESTRICTIONS OR OBSTRUCTIONS ON ALL WATER AND HYDRAULIC SYSTEMS AND NOT MAINTAINING PROP-ER WATER CHEMISTRY (pH level must be maintained between 7.4 and 7.8 and total alkalinity between 80 and 120 ppm. Totaldissolved solids (TDS) must be no greater than 3,000 ppm).

All orders are FOB Aston, PA. We will NOT be liable for any costs or losses due to changes in shipping schedules, or deliverytimes. It is the responsibility of the Customer to supply safe and proper site preparation, installation and operation for all EndlessPool Swimming Machines. This includes, but is not limited to, adequate drainage at any pool and/or equipment site, to controlhumidity, to post necessary safety signage and to ensure safe and proper use of all Endless Pool Swimming Machines. Customershall be responsible for any and all building permits, fees, licenses, and authorizations necessary to comply with local buildingcodes or requirements. Customer takes all responsibility for site preparation including, but not limited to, any slab or foundation.Any Endless Pools product installed above grade must be placed on a properly engineered structure, which is the responsibility ofthe customer.

We make no warranty whatsoever in respect to accessories or parts not supplied by Endless Pools, Inc. directly. The term “origi-nal purchaser”, as used in this warranty, shall be deemed to mean the person for whom the Fiberglass Endless Pool was original-ly installed. We DO NOT warrant this machine to meet requirements of any safety code of any state, municipality, or other juris-diction. Purchaser assumes all risk and liability whatsoever resulting from the use thereof.

In order to claim this warrant, original purchaser must promptly notify our Customer Service Department in writing of the exis-tence of the claim and then follow our written instructions regarding the procedures for remedying the defect. Endless Pools, Inc.shall not be responsible for cartage, transportation, removal and/or reinstallation labor or any other such costs relating to per-formance of the warranty. In the event any portion of this warranty shall be deemed unenforceable by a court of law, the remain-der of this warranty shall remain in full force and effect as if the voided portion were never included.

Prepaid returns of all Endless Pool products are accepted less a 10% restocking fee, up to 30 days from the date of purchase ifundamaged and in its original shipping containers. Accessories, options and equipment that have been used are non-refundable.Before returning any product, you must call our Customer Service Department to receive proper return authorization.

Endless Pools, Inc., 1601 Dutton Mill Rd., Aston, PA 19014 800-910-2714

Endless Pools, Inc. • 1601 Dutton Mill Rd • Aston, PA 19014-2931800-910-2714 • 610-497-8693 fax • www.myendlesspool.com OM29 7-11