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Difficulty of Installation

When using the thinset method in residential areas,installing ceramic tile is rather simple. To put it inbetter perspective, it is easier to install than wood orvinyl sheet goods and slightly more difficult thanvinyl tile. Actually, the subfloor preparation, layout,and installation is very similar to that of vinyl tile.The only major difference is grouting. With properplanning and a little common sense, practicallyanyone can install ceramic tile using the thinsetmethod.

A. Steps of Installation

The following information is a brief description ofthe steps involved in using the thinset method toinstall tile. It is not meant to be an instructionmanual; rather, it will familiarize you with the basic steps involved in installation.

1. Subfloor Preparation

This is the most important step in accomplishinga satisfactory installation. The subfloor must bestructurally sound, rigid, smooth, flat, and freeof curing compounds and waxy or oily films.

2. Floor Layout

In this step, the room is squared off and measured,and the chalk lines are snapped. Once the chalk linesare in place, the installer will verify the floor in bothdirections to balance the room.

3. Preparing the Tiles

Slight tone variations areto be expected from tileto tile. A good installerwill prevent this frombecoming a problem bymixing the tiles fromseveral cartons before installation. This blends thetiles together, and any shade variations add to thecharacter of the floor.

4. Spreading the Thinset

Using the chalk lines as a guide, the installer willbegin applying the thinset in one section at a time.He will spread one coat using the flat side of thetrowel and then immediately come back with asecond coat, using the notched side of the trowel.

5. Laying the Tiles

The tiles are then placed one at a time in the thinsetby twisting and pressing while allowing appropriatespacing for the grout. A straight edge or spacers maybe used to align the tile.

1- Installation of Ceramic TileHard Surfaces

INSTALLATION OF CERAMIC TILE

Flat Side of Trowel

Notched Side of Trowel

Check to AssureFreshness

Installation of Ceramic Tile

6. Grouting

The installer will generally begin grouting thefollowing day. It is important to allow the thinsetenough time to set up before applying the grout.The grout is applied over one small section at a timeand is spread by means of a rubber float or asqueegee. Pulling the grout firmly over the surfacewill both push the grout into the joints and clean offmost of the excess grout. Then the tile is rinsedusing a damp sponge. Very little water is applied.After approximately ten minutes the surface of thetile is cleaned again with a damp sponge (even drierthis time), or on some shiny tiles, just buff with adry towel.

INSTALLATION TOOLS

A. Notched Trowels - for setting materials

B. Grout Float - for between tiles

C. Wet Saw - for cutting tile

D. Nippers - for fitting edges of tile

E. Straight Edges - for gauging flat floor

F. Sponge - for grout finishing

G. Spacers - for joint spacing

H. Tile Cutter - for cutting tile

I. Drill and Mixing Paddle

J. Chalk Line

K. Hammer and Nails or Screws

L. Buckets - for water, mixing and grouting

M. Tape Measure

Installation of Ceramic Tile -2

Step 1Use the grouting floatdiagonally across the tilesat an angle to preventdragging grout from joints.

Step 2Clean float in clear water.Change water in pails oftento keep clean.

Step 3Go back over grout holdingfloat at a 90 degree angle.

Step 4Use damp (not wet) spongeto clean grout off tilesurface.Clean sponge and keeprepeating until section isclean.

NOTE: Always use cleancool water.

Step 5Buff film off tile with a softtowel after grout dries tothe touch.

Step 6Keep people off newlygrouted floor for about12-24 hours.

NOTE: Finished groutshould be uniform in color,smooth and without voids,pin holes, or low spots.

CeramicTile Cutter

Drill & MixingPaddle

Chalk Line

Hammer &Galvanized Nails

Buckets

Tape Measure

Notched FloorTrowel

Grout Float

Straight Edge& Square

Sponge

Floor Spacers

Tile Nippers

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INSTALLATION METHODSIt is important for you and your customers tounderstand that the installation of ceramic tile isnot a one-day job, like most carpet and vinylinstallations. Scheduling a time for the installation becomes much easier when everyone involvedknows how long the job will take.

A. Estimated Timetable• The following guide is an approximate time tablefor completion of a job.

50 sq. ft. and under . . . . . . . . . . . . one day51-175 sq. ft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . two days176-350 sq. ft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . three days351-500 sq. ft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . four dayseach additional 200 sq. ft . . . . . add one day

• The installation of tile takes longer because theinstaller must wait 10-14 hours before grouting. If hetries to rush it, he will break the bond between thetile and mortar. The moisture from the mortar mayalso wick into the grout, causing discoloration.

B. SubstratePreparing a good substrate is the most importantstep to insure a beautiful installation. There are six general requirements.

1. New concrete subfloors must be left to cure28 days before tiling.

2. All floor and wall substrates must be rigid.Excessive movement in the substrate may crack or loosen the tile and grout.

3. All substrates, particularly floors, must bestructurally sound. Rotting or deteriorating subfloors must be corrected prior to installingceramic tile.

4. All substrates should be flat. The ceramic tilewill contour to minor subfloor irregularities.

5. Any oil or wax on the substrate needs to beremoved to assure strong adhesion.

6. The substrate must be free of curingcompounds.

C. Suitable SubfloorsAll subfloors that are structurally sound and free ofexcessive movement are suitable for tiling over.They include:

1. Concrete2. Terrazzo or natural stone3. Fiber cement boards4. Cement backer boards5. Non-cushioned vinyl and linoleum

(properly prepared)6. Properly supported 1-1/4” plywood

D. Unsuitable SubfloorsThese subfloors are not suitable because they tend toflex, expand and contract, or warp. Any excessivemovement will loosen the tile and pop the grout.These subfloors must be replaced or covered with asuitable underlayment.

1. Perimeter installed or heavilycushioned vinyl and linoleum

2. Composite woodsa. Particle boardb. Flake boardc. Chipboardd. OSB (Orient Strand Brand)e. Luanf. Stripwood

E. Selecting the RightInstallation Method

Caution: Poorly prepared substrates and the use ofimproper setting materials are the cause of practically all major installation failures. Certaintypes of substrates and job conditions require special treatment. These treatments are neitherexpensive, time consuming, nor complicated. To ignore or deviate from them would be the equivalentof playing Russian roulette.

Installation materials described

• Floorset mortar is a promotionally priced thin-set packaged in 50 lb. bags, in gray and white colors.It should be used only over clean, solid, unsealedconcrete that is fully cured.

• Fortified Thinset mortar is a special formulaof thinset mortar enhanced by pre-blended latexadditives to ensure the proper mixture for ceramicinstallations over concrete. This product comes in 50lb. bags and covers approximately 50-65 sq. ft. perbag.

3- Installation of Ceramic TileHard Surfaces

Installation of Ceramic Tile

• Shaw Multi-Set™ is a specially formulated premium thinset that has a flexible acrylic additive.The acrylic gives the mortar flexibility and additionalbonding strength. The flexibility is required whengoing over substrates that may experience minormovement. The additional adhesion is needed whensetting tile over hard-to-bond surfaces, such as ply-wood and terazzo floors. Multi-Set is packaged in 50lb. bags in gray and white colors. (When installingtile over a plywood substrate, we always recommendinstalling cement backer-board first for a more secureinstallation). Coverage per bag isapproximately 50 to 60 square feetper bag, depending on trowelsize.

F. Special Preparation Requirements• Wood subfloors must be covered with one ofthe following overlays for additional support.

1. A cement backer board2. 1-1/4”-inch plywood - acceptable when using

Shaw Multi-Set™ Thinset.3. Wire mesh and mortar system (mud job) -

minimum thickness of 1-1/2” (mud only)

• Note: We recommend the cement backer board.It is much easier and less costly to install than thewire mesh and mortar coat. It is also much more sta-ble over plywood base floors.

• Non-porous subfloors include sealedconcrete, terrazzo, or any other non-absorptive sur-face. For extra bonding strength and a more success-ful installation, use Shaw Multi-Set™ Thinset.

• Vinyl over subfloors require the use of acement backer board and Shaw Multi-Set™. Interflexor perimeter glued floors must be removed.

• Although the moisture in wet areas will noteffect the tile itself, it will effect certain substrates. Ifdrywall or plywood are used in wet areas, they willeventually buckle or deteriorate, causing the tile tofall off. To prevent this we recommend a cementbacker board as a substrate. It was developed forwet areas.

G. Substrate Repairs• Stress cracks - Tile should never be installeddirectly over cracks. Stress cracks are generallycaused by seasonal movement and will continue toopen and close. If the tile is installed over a crack, itwill also crack as the substrate moves. A cracksubpression membrane may be used to bridge thestress crack.

• All minor cracks must be filled with thinset mortarprior to continuing with the installation. Back fillingwith the flat side of the trowel during the spreadingprocess is the simplest way of correcting minor cracks.

• Irregular Substrates - Very few substrates areperfectly flat, level, or plumb. Generally, the installerwill have to touch up the surface before and duringtiling.

• Minor high and low spots are smoothed easilywith thinset in very little time and at no extra cost.

• Deep depressions over 1/4” sometimes may bepatched with a mixture of thinset and a latex additive. Additional floor preparation cost may apply.

• If the substrate’s surface is marked with moundslarger than 1/4”, get your manager involved so thathe can consult with your tile contractor for pricing.

• Note: Ceramic tile will contour to the existingfloor condition in the same way vinyl and carpet do.Do not over-promise floor corrections to yourcustomers who are buying ceramic tile. Remember,ceramic tile does not level a customer’s floor.

H. Cement Backer Boards• The cement backer board is an all-purpose under-layment that was originally developed for use onwalls. It is a lightweight portable cement slab thatrequires no curing time and is used extensively inwet areas because it is not affected by moisture. It isalso used to cover wood subfloors. Its strength andrigidity reduce the movement inherent in wood.Therefore, it helps protect the tile from damage.

• The backer board sheets look and handle like gypsum board. They are 1/4” or 1/2” thick and comein 4’ x 4’ or 3’ x 5’ panels. They are produced usingreinforced fiber to prevent breakage or crumblingwhen handled. The backer boards also require nospecial skills to install. They score and snap as easilyas gypsum board.

Installation of Ceramic Tile -4Hard Surfaces

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• When going over floors, the backer board isadhered first with thinset and secured with nails orscrews recommended by the manufacturer. It is nec-essary to cover the floor joints. The joints will befilled as the installer spreads the mortar and tapeswith fiberglass mesh.

• Important: Nail or screw cement backer boardusing 1-1/4”-long (minimum) galvanized (to preventrusting) ring-shanked nails or screws. Space fastenersevery 6” on center.

I. Sound Reduction SystemsMany multi-level buildings today require that asound barrier be applied to the subfloor prior totiling. This is particularly true with condominiums.You should always ask the customer to check thecondominium association’s by-laws on soundreduction. Some customers may not be aware ofthese by-laws and risk having to replace a new job.

Four common sound reduction systems

1. With a combination of cement backerboards and mat, the mat is adhered to the sub-floor and the cement backer board is adheredto the mat.

2. A mortar type system containing sounddeadening materials is floated on the subfloorand left to cure overnight. Once cured, it serves as abase to spread your thinset.

3. Cork is a thin, high density cork that is special-ly treated for use with ceramics. Although many con-tractors use it, because of its flexibility, the corkpresents a higher risk for improper adhesion thanthe other systems.

4. Perlag Sound Reduction uses a mortaradditive and does not raise the height of the installa-tion as other sound reduction systems do.

Note: When using any sound reduction system,make sure the material you select has been testedand approved, and make sure you follow themanufacturer’s installation procedures.

J. AdhesivesThere are two types of adhesives recommended forinstalling residential tiles: organic mastics andthinset mortars.

• Organic mastics are pastes similar to floor cov-ering adhesives.

• Type I mastic is used for wet areas such as bathwalls and countertops.

• Type II mastic is used on dry walls.

• Thinset mortar is a combination of sand andportland cement that is mixed with either water orlatex. Thinset mortar is routinely used on floorswhen installing tile and concrete backer board.

5- Installation of Ceramic Tile

Step 1Apply Shaw Multi-Set Thinsetto a fully adhered andstructurally stable basefloor with a 1/4” x 1/4”notched trowel.

Step 2Cut panels by scoring andsnapping like drywall. Usecarbide tipped scoring tool.

Step 3Place panels over thinsetwhile it is wet. Stagger endjoints and fasten on all marksfor screws and on andbetween marks for nails.

Step 4Fill joints with Shaw Multi-Setand cover all joints withDurock Tape.

Step 5Apply Shaw Multi-Set with1/4” x 1/4” notched trowelto set tile.

Hard Surfaces

Installation of Ceramic Tile

• Note: Thinset mortar must be given 12 to 24hours to set up before grouting.

K. GroutsGrout is a cement-based powder that is mixed withwater to fill in the joints between the tiles. There aretwo basic types of grouts: unsanded and sanded.

• Unsanded grouts are used for wall tiles.

• Sanded grouts are used for floor tiles where thejoints are 1/8” and larger.

• On wider joints, it is necessary that a sanded groutbe used. The sand prevents the grout from shrinkingand cracking during the drying process.

• Grouts come in a variety of colors with thestandard size floor grout bag being 25 lbs.

• Grout joints in floor tiles should rarely be smallerthan 3/16” because tiles vary slightly in size. Theinstaller will not be able to keep a straight line if thegrout is too narrow.

• The standard size grout joint for walls is1/16” wide.

• Although all of our grouts are very dense anddenser grouts resist staining, there is no such thing as a stain-proof grout. Do not oversell theproduct.

• Again, Shaw grouts are dense, polymer latexenhanced, and have a flexible formula. This customized mixture is clearly the best sanded groutavailable today.

L. SealersSealers are used to protect some unglazed tiles fromabsorbing stains. There are several types of sealers;two of them are discussed below.

• Penetrating sealers are absorbed into the tileforming a stain-resistant shield just below the surface. Some penetrating sealers will darken orchange the appearance of the tile. Resealing every12-18 months is required with most penetratingsealers.

• Surface sealers are coated on the top of thetile forming a non-porous, stain-resistant barrier. The surface sealer will add a slight sheen. Resealingevery 6-12 months is required with most surfacesealers.

• Some unglazed tiles must be sealed with apenetrating sealer prior to grouting. This is particularly important when a dark-colored groutis being used with a light-colored tile. Naturally, thisis to prevent the grout from staining the tile.

• Highly absorptive tiles such as handmade Mexicantiles need to be constantly sealed with either apenetrating, surface, or a permanent epoxy typefinish. The permanent epoxy type finish is the bestfor this purpose, and all Mexican tiles in the Shawprogram have this finish.

• Note: None of the unglazed products in our linerequire a sealer, nor would they accept one. Theporosity is so low that sealers would virtually peeloff. They only require the damp mopping also usedwith glazed ceramic tile.

M. Floor TrimThe trim pieces serve two purposes. First, thebeveled edge conceals the factory edge, thereby finishing off the job. Second, they protect theexposed edge of the tile from chipping. An exampleof an area that requires a trim piece would be onewhere the tile meets a wood floor at a doorway.In this case some people use a marble threshold orvinyl cap.

• One of the most common types of trim used forresidential floors is a marble threshold.

Installation of Ceramic Tile -6

MarbleThreshold

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• Thresholds are used in doorways when making atransition from ceramic to another type of floor.Marble thresholds are common at bathroom doors.

• Bullnose (finished edge tile) is not produced byall manufacturers. When confronted with thissituation, one of the following alternatives can beused:

Cut-tile base - The installer will cut the tilebase from the field tile being used on the job.The tile’s factory edge, which is generallybeveled, is always the exposed side.

Vinyl caps - These are vinyl trim pieces thatcome in a variety of colors made specifically forceramic tile. They slip right over the exposededge of the tile to give it a finished look.

• Note: The vinyl caps may be used inmany ways, including:

To cap off the top of a cut-tile base.

To cap off the edge of a floor tile next tocarpet, wood, and lower floor coverings likevinyl and vinyl tile

7- Installation of Ceramic Tile

Small VinylCap

Cut-tileBase

Large Vinyl CapUse Large Vinyl Capwhen installingceramic tile over awood subfloor orwhen using a cementbackerboard under-layment. It can beinstalled straight, onangles or used tocontour to a freeform.

Small Vinyl CapUse Small Vinyl Capwhen installingceramic tile overconcrete or on awall as a base-board. It can beinstalled straight, onangles, or used tocontour to a freeform.

Vinyl Stair CapUse Nosing/StairVinyl Cap when afinished edge at stepdown or open stairis required. It maybe used on bothconcrete and woodsubfloors.

Vinyl ReducerUse Reducer Vinyl Capwhen a wider trim ormore gradual reductionis needed. It can be usedstraight or on angles. It may be used with or without a cement backer-board underlayment.

Hard Surfaces

Estim

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In this section we are going to cover the proceduresfor estimating the material needs and installationcosts. Although some of the terminology and jobrequirements may be new to you, estimating forceramic tile is no more difficult than for wood orvinyl. The key factors in figuring a job’s needs are thesame, no matter what product you are installing.They are:• taking proper measurements• determining material and labor needs• applying the costs.

A. Facts About Estimating1. Ceramic Tile is always ordered in full cartons.

When the square footage of the job is determined,the salesperson must round it off to the next fullcarton.

2. The square foot coverage per carton will varyfrom product to product. Once the tile is selected,the salesperson will refer to the specification area onthe front of the board indicating square footcoverage per carton.

3. It is necessary to increase the square footage of ajob in order to compensate for breakage and tile cuts.Add 10% for waste laying tile on a straight line pattern.Add 13% waste when laying a pattern on diagonalinstallation. This percentage is mandatory on each job.

4. After a job is complete, it is customary to leavethe customer with several pieces of tile to assure aperfect match in the event future repairs are needed.

5. The trim pieces such as vinyl cap are orderedby the piece. Each vinyl piece comes 4 l/f.

6. Normal floor prep such as minor patching isconsidered part of the job and is not billed as anextra charge.

7. Other leveling of a floor is a chargeable laboritem. Your installation contractor may need to seethe job conditions prior to establishing thecustomer’s cost.

8. Most ceramic installers do not carry the toolsnecessary to stretch carpet. If the ceramic meets

carpet in an area, the restretch will be done by acarpet installer. This is called carpet finishing.

9. All toilets must be removed before tiling.It is very difficult and unprofessional to cut arounda toilet.

B. Estimating KitIt is easy to overlook an item or labor needed whenestimating the job. Generally, it is a small oversightthat is not too costly, but it certainly could also be alarge oversight. To reduce the possibility of such anerror, we have introduced an “Estimating Kit.” It is aunique systematic approach of checks and balancesthat makes figuring a job a simple task. There arethree key elements in the “Estimating Kit.”

1. Ceramic Tile WorksheetThis is a combination check list and cost calculator.It lists all the material needs you may encounterwhen estimating a job and prices them out in asystematic method that helps eliminate errors.Important: The Ceramic Tile Worksheet is for youruse only and should not be left with the customer orinstaller.

2. Floor planThis serves as an introduction guide for the installer.The information on the floor plan will help youcomplete your Ceramic Tile Worksheet.The floor plan is comprised of two parts:

a. Graph paper used to diagram the layout.b. Check list used to inform the installer of

what is required.Important: A copy of the floor plan should begiven to the installer, and one must be in thecustomer’s folder at all times.

3. Hard Surface Measure Check ListThis is a fill-in-the-blank form developed for thesalespeople or measure service to complete thecustomer’s home. It provides specific informationneeded in determining the following:

a. Necessary floor preparation and removalb. Installation requiredc. Additional conditions to be discussed with

the customerd. Appliance, door clearances, and transition

pieces needed.

1- Estimating

ESTIMATING

Hard Surfaces

Estimating

Estimating -2

JOB SPECIFICATIONS Color NameCoverage Per Carton S/FTotal Full Cartons CTNTotal S/F (incl. waste) S/FInstallation Pattern:INSTALLATION METHOD1. Concrete Subfloor S/F2. Wood Subfloor S/F3. Counter Top/Backsplash S/F4. Wall Tile S/F5. Other:OTHER LABOR OPTIONS6. Cut Tile Baseboards L/F7. Stair Treads & Risers L/F8. Free Form Tile Cutting L/F9. Carpet Finishing L/F10. R&R Appliances: Qty. Each

CERAMIC TILE FLOOR PLANCustomer Name Phone Res. SalespersonAddress Phone Work Store Mgr.City, State, Zip Date Store Phone

11. R&R Toilets: Qty. Each12. Rip Up Vinyl/VCT S/F13. Rip Up Glue Down Cpt. S/F14. Rip Up Glue Down Wd. S/F15. Rip Up Cpt. over Tackless S/F16. Rip Up Ceramic Tile S/F17. Install Backerboard S/F18. Pattern Design S/F19. Mud Floor(s) S/F

TRIMS & TRANSITIONS21. Small Vinyl Cap (4L/F) Pcs.22. Large Vinyl Cap (4L/F) Pcs.23. Reducer Vinyl Cap (4L/F) Pcs. 24. Nosing/Stair V-Cap (4L/F) Pcs.25. Marble Threshold (3L/F) Pcs.26. Marble Reducer (3L/F) Pcs.27. Marble Stairnose (3L/F) Pcs.

28. Carrara Threshold (2” x 36” x 3/8”) Pcs.29. Carrara Threshold (2” x 36” x 3/4”) Pcs. 30. Carrara Threshold (3” x 36” x 3/4”) Pcs. 31. Carrara Threshold (4” x 36” x 3/4”) Pcs. 32. Carrara Threshold (6” x 36” x 3/4”) Pcs.33. Carrara Window Sills (5” x 74” x 3/4”) Pcs. 34. Carrara Window Sills (9” x 74” x 3/4”) Pcs. 35. Unsanded Wall Grout Bgs.36. Sanded Floor Grout Bgs.37/38. Floorset Mortar Bgs.39/40. Fortified Thinset Bgs.41/42. Multi-Set Thinset Bgs.43. Floor/Wall Adhesive Pls.44. Cement Floor Backer Pcs.45. Cement Wall Backer Pcs.46. Cement Seam Tape Rls.

1 square = 1 square foot

Estim

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3- Estimating

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CERA

MIC

SUN

DRIE

S

Estimating

Estimating -4

Clearance needed: Ceramic over concrete is 1/2”; Ceramic over wood is 1”.

CERAMIC TILE MEASURE CHECK LIST

Hard Surfaces

Estim

ating

ESTIMATING DATA SHEETA. Square Footage Formulations

1. Multiply the length by width to calculate thesquare footage (S/F) of area.

2. Add 10% for waste laying tile on a straight linepattern. Add 13% waste when laying a pattern ondiagonal installation.

3. Divide net S/F by S/F in box to determine thefull and partial number of cartons.

4. Round off to the next full box for exactnumber of full cartons required.

5. Multiply the number of full cartons by S/F perbox to determine the total S/F.

Example:Facts: Area is 20’ long and 15’ wide.Tile is packed 16.0 S/F to a carton.

Answers:1. 20’ x 15’ = 300 S/F of area.2. 300 S/F x 1.10 = 330 S/F.3. 330 divided by 16.0 S/F = 20.63 cartons.4. Round off 20.63 cartons to 21 total cartons.5. 21 cartons x 16.0 S/F = 336.0 total S/F.

B. Cut-tile Base FormulationLength of wall divided by 2 = number of S/F

C. Vinyl Cap FormulationVinyl Caps come 4 Linear Feet Per Piece

Example:1 piece per standard 3 foot door.

D. Marble Thresholds FormulationMeasure linear feet of doorway and calculate in3’-intervals. Each threshold comes 3’ (36”).

Note: Installer will take the larger size (36”)and cut to fit.

E. Measuring for Door Clearance Formulation

Door should clear height of two tiles. Lay one tile ontop of another.

Example:Ceramic over concrete 1/2”, ceramic over wood 1”.

Note: Inform customers so that they may have thedoor cut prior to installation.

F. Steps and Risers(Combined) Formulation

Multiply the width of steps x number of steps= linear feet

Example:3 feet in width, 3 steps = 9 linear feet

G. Cement Backer Board& Seam Tape Formulation

Area S/F divided by 15 S/F or 16 S/F= number of sheetsNote: Sheet size is 3’ x 5’ x 1/2” = 15 S/For 4’ x 4’ x 1/4” = 16 S/FUse 1 bag of Multi-Set Thinset to adhereapproximately 4 sheets of cement backer to plywoodsubfloor.Use 1 roll of cement backer seam tape for 50 linearfeet of cement backer board.

H. Thinset1 bag of thinset will cover approximately 50 to 65square feet of ceramic tile or cement backer board.

Example:100 S/F ceramic tile installation, 2 bags needed.

Example 2:100 S/F ceramic tile and cement backer board

installation, 4 bags needed.

5- EstimatingHard Surfaces

Estimating

I. GroutCoverages of grout will vary by size of tile. The cov-erage for a 25 lb. bag of either sanded or unsandedgrout is:

Tile Size Approx. GroutUnsanded Coverage Per Bag

4-1/4” x 4-1/4” 250 sq. ft.

6” x 6” 300 sq. ft.

8” x 10” 525 sq ft.

Tile Size Approx. GroutSanded Coverage Per Bag2” x 2” 125 sq. ft.4” x 8” (quarry) 50 sq. ft.6” x 6” (quarry) 55 sq. ft.8” x 8” (quarry) 60 sq. ft.6” x 6” 65 sq. ft.8” x 8” 80 sq. ft.10” x 10” 90 sq. ft.12” x 12” (Mexican) 30 sq. ft.12” x 12” 125 sq. ft.13” x 13” 130 sq. ft.13” x 20” 170 sq. ft.16” x 16” 170 sq. ft.17” x 17” 190 sq. ft.18” x 18” 225 sq. ft.

J. Floor/Wall Adhesive1 – 3-1/2 gallon pail of adhesive will coverapproximately 130 sq. ft. of ceramic tile.

Estimating -6Hard Surfaces