Informal Pond Construction

Elizabeth Lister 98030720 Landscape Construction Technologies H0470418 Hard Landscape Technologies, Materials and Methods (Assg 4) Word Count: 1

Source: Brian gibbons (2010)

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Contents

Title Page 1

Contents 2

Informal Ponds – Introduction 3

Site Preparation 4

MATERIALS – Introduction 5

MATERIALS – Flexible Liners 6

MATERIALS – Flexible Liner - Construction 7

MATERIALS –Rigid / Preformed Liner – Construction 8

MATERIALS – Raised Pond Construction 9

MATERIALS – Concrete – Construction 10

MATERIALS – Sprayed Concrete – Construction 11

MATERIALS – GRP - Construction 12

MATERIALS – Puddled Clay - Construction 13

Plants 14

References

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References for Figures

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Appendix 1 Edges

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Appendix 2 Puddled Clay Specification

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Appendix 3 Filters and Pumps 19

Informal ponds usually have curved or fluid boundaries asymmetrical in their design. They can be constructed from many different materials depending on their purpose in the garden or landscape. The edges free flow seamlessly into the landscape or can be defined with materials such as stone or wood. They are generally more natural in appearance and can be great habitats for wildlife. The idea behind informal ponds is to echo those found in nature with irregular contours and shallow sides. Ponds are found in many settings from urban to rural, this portfolio will mainly deal with informal ponds found in the domestic garden setting. This document will set out; general site preparation, a range of materials used in the construction, detailing of ponds including specifications, planting and the use of pumps and filters. (Sandi 2011) (Wikipedia 2010) (Pond conservation 2011) (Business link 2012)

Grassland Woodland Wetlands Moorlands Farmland Garden

Fig 2 - Ponds in different settings. Source: Pond conservation (2010)

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Informal Ponds - Introduction Ponds are bodies of still or standing water either natural or man-made, usually smaller than a lake. They can be permanent or seasonal for instance temporary ponds that dry up during the year. There are many different types of pond (see fig 2): wildlife, solar, dew, mist, vernal, fish or koi ponds, water gardens etc. SuDS (Sustainable Drainage systems) also can fall into the category of ponds. When land is build upon it is less permeable and this excess water needs to be drained from the surface. It unfortunately often picks up contaminants and therefore needs filtration. SuDS slow the flow of run off water and hold or detain it whilst breaking up pollutants naturally. SuDS can hold run off water for long periods in ponds see fig 1 Queen Margaret University in Edinburgh where natural processes break down the pollutants, these need to be custom built and can be connected to watercourses for clean water to flow into. Defra proposed in a consultation that required SuDs to be implemented into new and redeveloped sites in England. The consultation period ended March 2012. (Defra, 2011) (Littlewood, 2001)

Fig 1 Queen Margaret University Edinburgh Source: QMU (2007)

Choosing the site Location - how does the pond relate to the setting, features, surfaces and materials? It needs to be sited away from over hanging trees due to leaf drop. Placement of wildlife ponds is important for habitats, ensure planted area close to pond. Natural runoff water (rain, spring etc) can be used within the pond but can affect the pH level, depending on the surfaces around it filters may be required. If sited near a road or industrial area water could be contaminated and a barrier should be used stopping runoff. In wet areas a bog garden or overflow pool or pipe can be fitted to hold excess water. Pond levels rise and fall, with an average drop or 30-80cm between spring and autumn. Aspect - the sun shade ratio is important- too much sun causes algae growth, not enough means plants cannot grow. It is best to have sun in the morning and/or late afternoon, avoid areas in full sun at noon. Open exposed sites may need a shelter belt to protect pond plants from prevailing winds. Access – security during construction and after is important. Deep water creates a hazard especially for children. Creating a gentle slope around the pool that is planted deters children and allows access for wildlife. Security fencing and floatation devises around ponds can be used. Maintenance of filters and pumps or general repairs should be considered into the positioning as well as materials that adjoin the pond.

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Preparing the ground • Check site for underground service pipes / cables. • Check planting around the site, large trees or plants with sharp roots (bamboo) – may puncture the lining, or crack concrete. • Check water table in area by digging test hole, this will show whether the pond will naturally retain water and therefore may not need a liner. However a liner may be required due to contaminants in the soil and this may need to be checked. If using a liner for construction and water level is high, the water could push up under the liner or concrete therefore underground pipes can be laid to take away excess water. • Excess water can be pumped out of hole after excavation • Koi ponds depth minimum 900mm goldfish minimum 450mm • Shelves should be between 200 -300mm for emergent plants • Shallow area created for wildlife see fig 3 • Dig small ponds by hand to depth required including shelving and contours, larger ponds may need a mini-digger or larger excavator • Larger ponds may need consultation with local planning authority Excavation Preparation Process for all ponds • Mark out area of pond using string, chalk or spray etc • Remove turf or surface material from the site of pond, including any debris • Excavate topsoil and subsoil to separate piles using hand shovel or mini digger (Koi Proffessor 2011)

Fig 3 Marking out design Source: Home design (2008)

Site Preparation

Table 1 (Ezine 2007) (Flexible lining 2010) (Bradshaws 2009) (Littlewood 2001) (Robinson 1998) 5

General Description Types Description Durability Cost

Flexible pond liner • Most commonly used • Adapt to any size and shape • Fairly cheap • Should be laid on underlay and sand

Polythene • Medium-density • Contains up to 5 percent carbon black, UV stable • Differs in quality and can be damaged easily

• Can deteriorate when exposed to sunlight • 10-15yrs

Cheap

PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride) HDPE (High Density Poly Ethylene) • Around 0.5mm thick, easy to fit to shape • Some contain UV stabilizers • Not a crystalline membrane, has two directional stretch

• 25 yrs Cheap

Butyl • Strong, made of flexible natural rubber • Easy to install. • Extremely flexible and highly elastic yet thick

• 30-50yrs or • Lifetime guarantee

Expensive

EPDM rubber • Hardwearing synthetic rubber liner • Stronger than butyl and more puncture resistant • 1mm thick, a heavy duty liner

• Lifetime guarantee Less expensive than Butyl

Rigid Pond Liner, Pre-formed pond • Can be long lasting • Not advised for wildlife due to depth • Difficult to install • UV- as well as frost-resistant

Plastic liners PVC or Polypropylene • Some flexibility • Usually only available in small sizes

• 10-15yrs

Moderately priced

Fibreglass • Rigid • Stocked in larger sizes

• 25 yrs Expensive

Concrete • Very strong • Usually requires skilled person to construct and additional materials – steel mesh etc • Many methods of application • Needs top layer of render to be sealed with sealant like G4

• Long lasting • Can crack in freezing conditions

Can be expensive

Clay • Traditional method of building ponds • Used well on sites with heavy clay • The clay must be laid in a thick layer across the pond, watered well, then trampled on, or “puddled”, until it forms a continuous layer.

Pudddled Clay • Can be made in situ with existing site materials • Only suitable for smaller ponds due to drying and cracking up

• Long lasting Cheap if using own clay

Bentonite Clay • Aluminium silicate clay, purchased as a fine powder • Does not need to be puddled

• Long lasting Expensive

Informal ponds can be constructed from many different materials depending on the use. The range of materials on offer and the manufactures is vast. The main materials are:

MATERIALS – Introduction

MATERIALS – Flexible Liners

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Table 3 Source Stephens (2009)

Choosing a Liner There are two basic types of liner, plastic and rubber. These have different strengths and properties see Table 2 illustrating the properties of plastic and rubber liners, table 3 illustrates the dimensions. Plastic Liners

Polythene is the cheapest option available but it has a shorter life span than most and is damaged easily. See fig 4 PVC is reasonably priced and has increased durability and flexibility to polythene. It also carries a longer guarantee period. See fig 5 Rubber Liners

Butyl is natural rubber liner that is slightly textured. It is more expensive than plastic liners but usually carries a long life guarantee. It generally come in two thicknesses of 0.75mm and 1mm and is strong resisting puncturing. See fig 6 EPDM is a synthetic rubber used for roofing and ponds it is smoother more elastic than Butyl. It comes in a range of thicknesses and can be cheaper than Butyl. See fig 7. There are a selection of different EPDM’s on the market including Firestone see Table 3 (pond expert 2008)

Table 2 Source: Butyl products (2012)

Fig 4, Source: Miles (2011)

Fig 7, Source: pond/garden (2011)

Fig 5, Source: Pondpump (2003)

Fig 6, Source: growson (2003)

MATERIALS – Flexible Liner - Construction

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The construction process is basically the same for each flexible liner. However they can be laid on different surfaces and be finished with different materials. Flexible liners can be used in small scale domestic settings and are a cheap and easy to install see fig 8. They can be used on large scale sites and civil engineering projects. (Robinson 1998) (Littlewood, 2001) Construction of Flexible liners • See preparation page 4 • Excavate hole 200mm extra to allow for underlay and sand • Ensure sides are level and planting shelves are wide enough for planting baskets see fig 9 • Remove debris (40mm and above) and smooth surface over, ensure roots of plants do not penetrate sides • Lay 150mm sand evenly across all surfaces • Install underlay - Permalay, Polyfibrelay or Protective Matting Formula for liner: Length = maximum length of pond + (2 x maximum depth) + 1m edging / overlap Width = maximum width of pond + (2 x maximum depth) + 1m edging / overlap • Centre liner across hole and gently push down into all areas (remove shoes if standing in hole), fold liner to fit the space • Use stones to weigh down edges in place • If planting without baskets place soil (subsoil or pond soil) directly into pond where plants will be sited • Fill hole with water – (rain water) and adjust stones to allow liner to naturally sink into contours • When pond is full cut off excess liner and burry edges in soil or cover with turf, stone, slabs, pebbles etc see fig 10 (Cheshire wildlife trust 2010)

Fig 8 Source: Lister (2012) Fig 9 Source: Thallon, Jones (2003)

Fig 8 Shows a flexible liner used with loose stone edging. Fig 9 Shows construction detail of plastic flexible liner. Fig 10 Shows construction detail of rubber flexible liner.

Fig 10 Source: Dines, Brown (1999)

MATERIALS –Rigid / Preformed Liner - Construction

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Rigid liners are strong and long-lasting but are more costly than flexible liners. Due to their shape they can be difficult to install and not always practical for wildlife as the edges can be steep. They can be fitted as a raised unit and are less prone to puncturing as they thicker. There are two main types of rigid liner Fibreglass and Plastic. (Robinson 1998) (Littlewood, 2001) Fibreglass • Highly durable and one of longest lived liners • Large range of sizes available and different colours Plastic liners • Cheaper than fibreglass, but not as strong. • Not usually available in large sizes. • Types: ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) a strong rigid plastic and HDPE (High-density polyethylene) a flexible plastic available in different thicknesses. Construction of Rigid liners • Place the pond in location and mark out area around and inner shelf line - see fig 11 • See preparation page 4 • Excavate hole 200mm deeper to allow for sand • Remove debris and smooth surface over • Check pond fits in hole • Lay 150mm sand evenly across all surfaces see fig 12 • Install pond in site and pack sand and subsoil around to fill gaps • Fill liner with water – (rain water) • Create an edge for liner see appendix 1 (cheshire wildlife 2010)(garden supermart 2005)

Fig 11 Source: Pondplantdirect (2011)

Fig Lister (2012)

Fig 11 Shows how to excavate for a rigid liner Fig 12 Shows adding sand layer Fig 13 Shows pond with rigid liner Fig 14 Shows construction detail of rigid liner. Fig 14 Source: Thallon, Jones (2003)

Fig 12 Source Fishcrazy (2003)

Fig 13 Source: Lister (2012)

MATERIALS – Raised Pond Construction

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Both Flexible and Rigid liners can be used in a raised pond feature. There are various ways to raise sides to hold a liner: • Stone – fig 15 • Concrete – fig 16 • Brick – fig 17 • Wood • CMU concrete bricks These all have different construction methods.

Fig 15 Source: Thallon, Jones (2003) Fig 16 Source: Dines, Brown (1999)

Fig 15 - Shows a flexible liner used with a raised stone edging. Fig 16 - Shows flexible liner with concrete Fig 17 - Shows flexible liner with brick wall

Fig Lister (2012)

Fig 17 Source: Thallon, Jones (2003)

MATERIALS – Concrete - Construction

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Construction of basic concrete pond – Fig 18 and 19 • See preparation page 4 • Excavate hole 150mm larger to allow for underlay and concrete • Ensure sides are no more than 70 degree angle, the more gentle the angle the easier it is to apply the concrete • Remove debris and compact surface • Line with builders polythene Calculation for concrete: Area of sides and base x thickness required The concrete mix: 1 part cement, 1 - 2 parts sand, 4 parts gravel • Lay 100mm concrete covering area • Push wire mesh into concrete as a reinforcement • Lay 50mm second layer concrete encasing wire • Finish using a trowel • Cover area with polythene and leave for 1 week to cure • Render pond with 3 sand to 1 cement mortar and water-proofer 15mm thick • When dry apply sealer or pond paint e.g. G4 Construction of in-situ concrete pond Fig 20 and 21 • See preparation page 4 • Excavate 250mm extra depth and 150mm extra width and length • Lay 100mm type 1 hardcore across base and compact • Line all sides with wire mesh • Construct wooden former / shuttering to internal dimensions of final design • Lay 150mm concrete to base and tamp ensuring level surface • lift shuttering into place on wet concrete • Pour concrete with water-proofer into shuttering and vibrate sides to give a smooth finish • When concrete is set remove shuttering and leave to dry • When dry apply sealer or pond paint e.g. G4 (Littlewood 2001) (Build garden 2009)

Fig Lister (2012)

Fig 18 Construction of concrete pond Fig 19 Concrete pond basic Fig 20 Construction detail in-situ concrete Fig 21 In-situ concrete pond

Fig 18 Source: Lister (2012)

Concrete Ponds Concrete ponds are extremely strong and can last a long time. There are a variety of different methods for creating a concrete ponds including puddled concrete, sprayed on, CMU bricks with a plastered finish and poured in using shuttering. These methods all have different application techniques but still have the flexibility of being able to create different shapes and sizes. Concrete ponds take time to create and may need a professional increasing the cost. (bradshaws 2009) (Robinson 1998)

Fig 21 Source: Koiacres (2005)

Fig 19 Source: buildgarden (2009)

Fig 20 Source: Thallon, Jones (2003)

http://www.imagejuicy.com/images/pools/g/gunite-pool/50/

Fig 24 Source: innovineonline (2009)

Sprayed Concrete - To create a shaped pond with curved sides, or an extra large pond sprayed concrete is the easiest way to achieve this. See fig 23 Shotcrete and Gunite are two methods of spraying concrete through a pneumatic hose directly onto the sides of a pond. The main difference between the two methods is the application. Both forms are concrete but differ in ratio of cement to sand to aggregate mix. (Littlewood, 2001) Gunite – Is shot through a hose onto the surface in a dry form and mixed with water via a nozzle at the end of the hose. As the mix is dry the operator has the ability to control the ratio of the mix and use more or less water which is an advantage over shotcrete. See fig 21 Shotcrete – Is premixed and shot through a hose onto the surface in its wet form. Metal rods and steel or fibre mesh can be fixed onto the surface to support the structure. See fig 22 It is important to hire a skilled person to apply the concrete. See fig 23 (waterfalls 2011)

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MATERIALS – Sprayed Concrete - Construction

Fig 21 Source: Dines, Brown (1999) Fig 22 Source: Thallon, Jones (2003) Fig 23 Source: One plan (2005)

Fig 21 Construction drawing of gunite concrete pond Fig 22 Construction drawing of shotcrete concrete pond Fig 23 Sprayed concrete pond Fig 24 Sprayed concrete pond showing mesh and application

GRP GRP (glass reinforced polyester) is a smooth and hard-wearing laminate that can be layered over concrete. It is especially good in Koi ponds. It requires a skilled professional to apply the laminate. The benefits of GRP are that it has a lifetime guarantee and as it is a continuous surface cannot leak. Construction • Apply sealant to the concrete – such as G4 Polyurethane varnish 210 gms per sq meter Fig 25 • The following laminates should be applied wet on wet • When G4 becomes tacky (after 1 hour) apply one coat of laminating resin Fig 26 • 1 layer of 450gms /Sq mtr chopped strand matting Fig 27 • Paddle roll over matting to ensure it is saturated and there are no air bubbles Fig 28 • 1 layer of surface tissue Fig 29 • When laminate has hardened sand down the surface (40 grit paper) Fig 30 • 1 coat of black topcoat Fig 31 (usually black or green, however other pigments can be added to change colours)

(Top-ponds, 2010)

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MATERIALS – GRP - Construction

Fig 24 Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 29 Fig 30 Source: Top-ponds (2010)

Fig 31 Source: Top-ponds (2010)

Fig 24 – 31 GRP application process

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Puddled Clay Puddled clay is a traditional construction method, and a good option for heavy clay sites. Air is squeezed out of clay to create a watertight liner. It is inexpensive if clay is available on site but costly to import due to weight. Alternatives are bentonite an aluminium silicate clay, this is expensive and not as long living as clay. The puddling process is time consuming and due to the thickness needed for the liner the initial hole must be bigger. Puddle Clay Construction • The clay should be naturally occurring free from sand / stones there are specifications for clay see appendix 2 • See preparation page 4 • Excavate hole 350mm larger to allow for clay • Ensure sides are level and planting shelves are wide enough for planting baskets • Remove all debris , roots, stones etc and compact surface with machinery such as a trench compactor plate see fig 33, 34 • Lay clay layer by layer, if using a compactor plate larger layers of 200mm can be laid and compacted each time • If using feet to compact, layer 75mm at a time. • Layer up clay till width is 300mm after compaction • If adding aggregate to the pond a fabric separator can be used over the clay see fig 36 • Fill hole with water – (rain water) see fig 35 • Use rocks or pebbles as edge as per design • If creating a natural wildlife pond leave pond with just rain water – no fish, plants or soil to be added – see fig 36. Which is part of the ‘Million Ponds Project’ (Cropethorne, 2011) (Littlewood, 2001)

MATERIALS – Puddled Clay - Construction

Fig 37 Source: Cropethorne (2011)

Fig 32 Source: Cropethorne (2011) Fig 33 Source: Cropethorne (2011) Fig 34 Source: Cropethorne (2011) Fig 35 Source: Cropethorne (2011)

Fig 36 Source: Dines, Brown (1999)

Fig 32 – 35 Puddled clay construction Fig 36 - Puddled clay construction drawing Fig 37 – Puddled clay pond

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Planting Planting plays a key role in a pond in terms of aesthetic value and habitat creation but also helps maintain vital oxygen levels within the water and can aid water quality. There are five main plant groups used within ponds. These can be categorised in zones, publications differ on amount, sometimes lilies have a separate zone see fig 40. Plants can be invasive and need regular weeding out for example Flag iris and Typha – Reedmace Bog Plants – zone 1 - roots in moist soil, leaves above surface Around the outside of the pond extra liner can be used to create a bog area, this creates a habitat for frogs and insects but also acts as a barrier and blends the pond in with the natural surroundings. Marginal or Emergent plants - zone 2/3 roots submerged, leaves above surface Plants grow in shallow water around the perimeter of pond sometimes planted directly into soil or by use of planting baskets cited on ledges see fig 39. Each plant will have a specific maximum depth and can range from 0 – 300mm. Plants include: Marsh marigold Caltha palustris and Water violet Hottonia palustris Deep Water Plants - zone 4 - roots submerged, leaves on surface The floating leaves of these plants work to help to keep water clear reducing algae by blocking sunlight which also gives cover to fish etc. They are placed at the bottom of the pond either planted or in baskets. Plants include: Japanese pond lily Nuphar japonica and Common Water lily Nymphaea alba Submerged oxygenating plants – zone 5 - roots and leaves submerged The leaves of these plants live mainly submerged with roots bedded at the bottom level. They provide shade and absorb nutrients helping to clear water and oxygenated. Plants include: Water starwort Callitriche spp. and Curly pondweed Potamogeton crispus Floaters – zone 6 - roots submerged, leaves on or just under surface These can be invasive and need controlling. Plants include: Water Lettuce Pistia stratiotes and Water soldier Stratiotes aloides (Cheshire wildlife trust, 2011) (Sandi 2011) (Robinson 1998) (Bridgewater, 2010)

Fig 40 Source: world of water (2005)

Fig 38 Source: Cheshire wildlife trust (2011)

Plants

Fig 39 Source: Thallon, Jones (2003)

Fig 38 - Dimensions of different planting zones Fig 39 - Plant Basket construction drawing Fig 40 – Planting Zones

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References Bradshaws (2009) [www document]. http://www.bradshawsdirect.co.uk/BradshawsSite/category/LINERS_LIN-BUTY.htm (Accessed March 2012) Bridgewater, A, G. (2010) The Pond Specialist. United Kingdom: New Holland Publishers British ecological society (2011) [www document]. http://www.britishecologicalsociety.org/educational/pond_resources/ponds_construction.php (Accessed April 2012) British Waterways (2011) [www document]. http://www.britishwaterways.co.uk/media/documents/nmu_Puddle_Clay_Specification.pdf (Accessed April 2012) Build garden (2009) [www document]. http://www.garden-pond-building.com/concretepond.html (Accessed April 2012) Business link (2012) [www document]. http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?itemId=1085845289&type=RESOURCES (Accessed March 2012) Cheshire wildlife trust (2010) [www document]. http://www.cheshirewildlifetrust.co.uk/documents/advice_ponds.pdf (Accessed April 2012) Cropethorne (2011) [www document]. http://www.cropthornehouse.co.uk/11-01-17_mud_snow_glass_stone (Accessed April 2012) Defra (2011) [www document]. http://www.defra.gov.uk/environment/quality/water/sewage/sustainable-drainage/ (Accessed April 2012) Dines, N. and Brown, K . (1999) Site Construction Details Manual. USA: McGraw Hill Downing, M. (1997) Landscape Construction. London: Spon Essex aquatics (2012) [www document]. http://www.essex-aquatics.co.uk/pond-builders-essex-london.html (Accessed March 2012) Ezine (2007) [www document]. http://EzineArticles.com/140765 (Accessed March 2012) Flexible lining (2010) [www document]. http://www.flexiblelining.co.uk/pond-liner-lake-liners/pond-liner-protection.html (Accessed April 2012) Garden supermart (2005) [www document]. http://www.gardensupermart.com/store/c229211p16755706.2.html#more (Accessed April 2012) Garden visit (2008) [www document]. http://www.gardenvisit.com/garden_products/water/pond_construction_checklist (Accessed April 2012) Littlewood, M. (2001) Landscape Detailing Water. Oxford: Elsevier. Love, G. (2001) Water in the Garden. London: Aqua Marine Maton, C. and Edwards, M (2002) Garden DIY Water features. United Kingdom: Murdoch Books Pond conservation (2011) [www document]. http://www.pondconservation.org.uk/Resources/Pond%20Conservation/Documents/PDF/MPP-toolkit-sheet2.pdf (Accessed April 2012) Pond expert (2008) [www document]. www.pondexpert.co.uk/FlexiblePondLiners.html (Accessed April 2012) Pond Safety (2010) [www document]. http://www.pondsafety.com/ (Accessed April 2012) Pond UK (2003) [www document]. http://www.pondsuk.com/coir-fibre-products-aquatic-planting/ (Accessed March 2012) QMU (2007) [www document]. http://www.qmu.ac.uk/the_university/externalviews.htm (Accessed April 2012) Readers Digest (2010) [www document]. http://www.readersdigest.co.uk/water-features/informal-ponds/html (Accessed March 2012) Robinson, P. (1998) The Royal Horticultural Society: Water Gardening. Great Britain: Dorling Kindersley Limited Sandi (2011) [www document]. http://www.sandiegoponds.com/about/formal-vs-informal-pond-design (Accessed March 2012) Top-ponds, (2010) [www document]. http://www.top-ponds.com/pondbuilding.htm (Accessed April 2012) Waterfalls (2011) [www document]. http://www.waterfallsnaturally.com/authority/2011/02/27/shotcrete-vs-gunite/ (Accessed April 2012) Wikipedia (2010) [www document]. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pond (Accessed April 2012) World of water (2010) [www document]. http://www.worldofwater.co.uk/pages/Pond-Liners-Types.html (Accessed March 2012)

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References for figures Title Page photo – Upper Afan Valley Glyncorrwg Pond (2010) [www document]. www.briangibbons.co.uk (Accessed March 2012) Fig 1 Source: Queen Margaret University Edinburgh (2007) [www document]. http://www.qmu.ac.uk/the_university/externalviews.htm (Accessed April 2012) Fig 2 Source: Pond conservation (2011) [www document]. http://www.pondconservation.org.uk/Resources/Pond%20Conservation/Documents/PDF/MPP-toolkit-sheet2.pdf (Accessed April 2012) Fig 3 Source: Marking out design Source: Home design (2008) [www document]. http://www.home-dzine.co.za/garden/garden-water-add.htm (Accessed April 2012) Fig 4 Source: Miles (2011) [www document]. miles-water.com (Accessed April 2012) Fig 5 Source: Pondpump (2003) [www document]. http://www.pondpumpshq.com/choices-of-pond-liners/ (Accessed April 2012) Fig 6, Source: growson (2003) [www document]. growsonyou.com (Accessed April 2012) Fig 7, Source: pond/garden (2011) [www document]. http://www.pondandgardenwholesalers.com/servlet/the-Pond-Liner/Categories (Accessed April 2012) Fig 8 Source: Lister (2012) Personal Photographs. Leigh on Sea, Essex Fig 9 Source: Thallon, R. Jones, S. (2003) Graphic Guide to Site Construction. Newtown: The Taunton Press Fig 10 Source: Dines, N. and Brown, K . (1999) Site Construction Details Manual. USA: McGraw Hill Fig 11 Source: Pondplantdirect (2011) [www document]. pondplantsdirect.co.uk (Accessed April 2012) Fig 12 Source Fishcrazy (2003) [www document]. fishcrazy.co.uk (Accessed April 2012) Fig 13 Source: Lister (2012) Personal Photographs. Leigh on Sea, Essex Fig 14 Source: Thallon, R. Jones, S. (2003) Graphic Guide to Site Construction. Newtown: The Taunton Press Fig 15 Source: Thallon, R. Jones, S. (2003) Graphic Guide to Site Construction. Newtown: The Taunton Press Fig 16 Source: Dines, N. and Brown, K . (1999) Site Construction Details Manual. USA: McGraw Hill Fig 17 Source: Thallon, R. Jones, S. (2003) Graphic Guide to Site Construction. Newtown: The Taunton Press Fig 18 Source: Lister (2012) Personal Photographs. Leigh on Sea, Essex Fig 19 Source: buildgarden (2009) [www document]. http://www.buildagardenpond.com/build/concretepuddling.html (Accessed April 2012) Fig 20 Source: Thallon, R. Jones, S. (2003) Graphic Guide to Site Construction. Newtown: The Taunton Press Fig 21 Source: Koiacres (2005) [www document]. koiacres.com (Accessed April 2012) Fig 23 Source: One plan (2005) [www document]. http://www.oneplan.org/Stock/wasteFac/manual3.asp (Accessed April 2012) Fig 24 Source: innovineonline (2009) [www document]. http://innovineonline.info/gunite-swimming-pool-shooting-all.html (Accessed April 2012) Fig 24-31 Source: Top-ponds, (2010) [www document]. http://www.top-ponds.com/pondbuilding.htm (Accessed April 2012) Fig 32 - 35 Source: Cropethorne (2011) [www document]. http://www.cropthornehouse.co.uk/11-01-17_mud_snow_glass_stone (Accessed April 2012) Fig 36 Source: Dines, N. and Brown, K . (1999) Site Construction Details Manual. USA: McGraw Hill Fig 37 Source: Cropethorne (2011) [www document]. http://www.cropthornehouse.co.uk/11-01-17_mud_snow_glass_stone (Accessed April 2012) Fig 38 Source: Cheshire wildlife trust (2010) [www document]. http://www.cheshirewildlifetrust.co.uk/documents/advice_ponds.pdf (Accessed April 2012) Fig 39 Source: Thallon, R. Jones, S. (2003) Graphic Guide to Site Construction. Newtown: The Taunton Press Fig 40 Source: World of water (2010) [www document]. http://www.worldofwater.co.uk/pages/Pond-Liners-Types.html (Accessed March 2012) Fig 41 - 43 Source: Thallon, R. Jones, S. (2003) Graphic Guide to Site Construction. Newtown: The Taunton Press Table 1: Source: Ezine (2007) [www document]. http://EzineArticles.com/140765 (Accessed March 2012) Flexible lining (2010) [www document]. http://www.flexiblelining.co.uk/pond-liner-lake-liners/pond-liner-protection.html (Accessed April 2012) Bradshaws (2009) [www document]. http://www.bradshawsdirect.co.uk/BradshawsSite/category/LINERS_LIN-BUTY.htm (Accessed March 2012) Littlewood, M. (2001) Landscape Detailing Water. Oxford: Elsevier. Robinson, P. (1998) The Royal Horticultural Society: Water Gardening. Great Britain: Dorling Kindersley Limited Table 2 Source: Butyl products (2012) [www document]. http://www.butylproducts.co.uk/Products-Services/Ponds-Lakes/LiningMaterials/ (Accessed March 2012) Table 3 Source Stephens (2009) [www document]. http://www.stephens-plastics.co.uk/ (Accessed March 2012)

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There are many different finishes for a pond as seen in this document. The edges can create a different feel for a pond and affect the general aesthetics.

Appendix 1

http://www.worldofwater.co.uk/pages/Pond-Liners-Types.html

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Puddle Clay Specification “The clay should be naturally occurring homogeneous plastic material free from sand and stones a) More than 65% of the natural material shall be finer than 0.06mm and more than 40% shall be finer than 0.002mm b) The natural material shall be defined as firm clay in accordance with BS5930:1981 Table 8 (Cu 40-75 kPa). c) The natural material shall be defined as clay of intermediate to extremely high plasticity in accordance with BS5930:1981, figure 31 and the liquid limit shall not be less than 35%. d) The coefficient of permeability (k) of the remoulded material shall not be greater than 10 –9 m/s. e) The remoulded material shall be defined as Non-dispersive (ND1) in accordance with BS1377:Part 5:1990, Table 2. 3) Identification An indication of a material’s suitability may be obtained from the following empirical tests, at the moisture content agreed for placement. a) Tenacity Test A 300mm long, 25mm diameter cylinder of clay is held vertically for 15 seconds so that at least 200mm is unsupported and in tension under its weight. If the cylinder breaks the clay will be rejected as unsuitable. b) Pinch Test A 75mm diameter ball of remoulded clay is squeezed into a 25mm thick flat disc. If any cracks appear the clay may be rejected as unsuitable. c) Slaking Test A 50mm diameter ball of remoulded clay is placed in a 600ml beaker and covered with water. If the ball disintegrates within 24 hours the clay may be rejected as unsuitable. d) Permeability Test A sample of remoulded clay shall be formed into a tray to hold 20 litres of water and the loss measured after 24 hours. This shall be compared with the water loss from a metal tray of the same surface area holding the same quantity of water. If the difference is greater than 1% the clay may be rejected. 4) Acceptance a) A representative sample of the proposed clay material, not less than 10kg in weight together with appropriate tests results shall be supplied to the Engineering Manager for his acceptance not more than two weeks after acceptance of the Tender, and at least four weeks in advance of any proposed change in source or quality of the material. b) Test results to BS1377 are required as follows: i) Grading ii) Liquid and Plastic Limits iii) Natural Moisture Content iv) Coefficient of Permeability of remoulded clay v) Pinhole Dispersion of remoulded Clay vi) Compaction (2.5kg rammer) 5) Emplacement a) The clay should be reworked in a stockpile on site and water added as necessary to destroy the original structure of the clay and produce a smooth plastic homogeneous puddle clay with a moisture content of a minimum of 1.3 times the plastic limit. Reworking of the clay should be carried out in such a manner as to prevent contamination. b) The method of placing the clay shall be agreed by the Engineering Manager before work commences. Whatever means are adopted they shall produce a continuous homogeneous plastic mass of puddle clay effectively free from voids, laminations or imperfections which could affect its water retaining properties. c) The clay shall be placed in horizontal layers not exceeding 150mm consolidated thickness and compacted by an approved method to an air void content not exceeding 5%. d) Unless agreed otherwise with the Engineering Manager, the type of compaction plant and number of passes shall conform with the requirements of Clause 608 and Tables 6/1 and 6/4 for material Class 7C (selected wet cohesive material) of the DoT specification for Highway Works Part 2. e) Before placing a further layer of puddle, the surface of the previous layer shall be cleansed of all slurry and surplus water and the surface prepared to ensure that the clay to be placed shall be integrated with that already placed. Preparation of surfaces between successive layers shall be formed by frequent non-continuous spade cuts into the upper surface of the clay to depth of 75mm. f) Where clay puddle is to be joined with existing clay puddle, the existing clay shall be cut back and stepped to form a good key between the existing and new clay puddle over a distance to be agreed by the Engineering Manager, but not less than 1000mm. All trace of junction marks shall be wholly eliminated. g) Precautions shall be taken to ensure any puddle clay awaiting placing, puddle clay which has been placed and any puddle clay in dry areas shall be kept continuously wet to prevent it drying out and covered by waterproof sheets to protect it from rain damage. Precautions shall be taken to prevent the material freezing. “ Direct Quote British Waterways (2011)

Appendix 2

Appendix 3 Filters Filters play a vital role in the health of a pond, keeping the water clean by flushing through a series of chambers see fig 41

Fig 41 Source: Thallon, Jones (2003)

Pumps There are three types of pump: • Submersible – small pond • Isolated – small /medium pond – on/off switch • Fully automatic – large pool – operated by switch The diagrams below show a submerged and isolated pumps.

Fig 42 Source: Thallon, Jones (2003) Fig 43 Source: Thallon, Jones (2003)

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