Inflight Magazine

29
the inflight magazine of air uganda part of the your complimentary copy issue number 003 aug–oct 2010

description

Asante meaning thank you is the inflight magazine for Air Uganda.

Transcript of Inflight Magazine

Page 1: Inflight Magazine

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LAKE VICTORIA SERENAR E S O R T

A WORLD AWAY FROM THE CITYJust 15 Kilometres from Kampala and 35 Kilometres from Entebbe, on the shores of lake victoria, rests a 

resort of ultimate beauty, tranquility and peace. This newest addition to the Serena family is the perfect resort to unwind and escape the stresses of city life. 

PO Box 37761, Kampala, Uganda, Lweza-Kigo road, Off Entebbe road or Call +256 41 7121000, Fax +256 41 7121550 e-mail: [email protected] 

The central lounge and reception The rooms and suites

Maisha Mind Body and Spirit Spa The pool and garden view

Page 3: Inflight Magazine

Welcome Aboard!

On behalf of all my colleagues at Air Uganda, it is my great pleasure to welcome you

aboard and to thank you for flying with us today. We are most privileged to have

you with us. Our flight crew will do everything humanly possible to make your flight a

pleasant one.

As the Airline’s Technical Director, I am responsible for the maintenance of our aircraft and

related equipment. I head a team of highly qualified and experienced technical professionals

– aircraft maintenance engineers, technicians, maintenance planning engineers, quality assurance inspectors, materials

planning or logistics specialists and other essential support staff in various disciplines.

Our primary role in the company is to provide safe, reliable and properly maintained three aircraft for our passengers. In

order to achieve this, we maintain the highest technical standards of maintenance and engineering, employing modern state-

of-the-art technology, processes, practices, equipment and materials. This is in line with our company objective to achieving

the highest level of safety and performance. We take pride in this role and we are continually looking for ways to improve

“our product”. Our staff have a unique opportunity to execute this commitment to our customers with the service we provide

from the ground by ensuring a high standard, safe, reliable and on-time maintenance service. With your continued support,

we have worked very hard to achieve a level of reliability and on-time performance that is the envy of many.

As you may be aware, air travel is the safest, most sophisticated and most regulated means of travel. The industry is

heavily controlled by virtually every government on this planet through a regulatory framework and numerous agencies.

These agencies include civil aviation authorities (Uganda Civil Aviation Authority, Federal Aviation Administration (FAA), etc),

international regulatory and safety agencies like United Nation’s International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO), European

Aviation Safety Agency (AESA), International Air Transport Administration (IATA) and many others. These organisations

mandate the industry standards which all aircraft manufacturers, operators (like us) and other industry players must adhere

to and comply with. We maintain and operate our aircraft in accordance with the manufacturer’s requirements and the

highest international safety standards. We continuously review our performance by use of rigorous internal and independent

external audits. We set, achieve and report against, objectives and targets to demonstrate continual performance

improvement. To sustain high competence amongst our staff, we continuously train and deploy competent people and

allocate responsibilities and tasks commensurate with individuals’ skills.

With our ongoing aircraft fleet modernisation programme, we are geared to enhancing our technical skills and

competence to serve our customers even better. Our fleet modernisation programme will result in an improved range of

services and more exciting destinations. We aim to be your leading airline choice in East Africa in terms of safety, quality,

customer service and punctuality.

On behalf of our technical staff and the entire team at Air Uganda, I extend our heartiest gratitude for your continued

support that has enabled us to grow and provide you with an improved service.

Thank you for flying with us and we look forward to serving you again in the near future.

Ephraim Bagenda Apuuli

Technical Director

EDITORIAL

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Camerapix Magazines Ltd Rukhsana Haq

Roger Barnard

Cecilia Gaitho

Sam Kimani Charles Kamau Fatima Janmohamed Azra Chaudhry, U.K Rose Judah

Rukhsana HaqJenifer B. MusiimeRegina Busingye

Publishers:

Editorial Director:

Editor:

Editorial Assistant:

Senior Designer:

Design Assistants:

Production Manager:

Production Assistant:

Editorial Board:

ASANTE meaning ‘Thank you’ in Kiswahili

is published quarterly for Air Uganda

by Camerapix Magazines Limited

P.O.Box 45048,00100 GPO Nairobi, Kenya

Telephone: +254 (20) 4448923/4/5

Fax: +254 (20) 4448818 or 4441021

E-mail: [email protected]

Editorial and Advertising Office:

Camerapix Magazines (UK) Limited

32 Friars Walk, Southgate, London, N14 5LP

Tel: +44 (20) 8361 2942

Mobile: +44 79411 21458

E-mail: [email protected]

Correspondance on editorial and advertising

matters may be sent to either of

the above addresses.

Printed in Nairobi.

©2010

CAMERAPIX MAGAZINES LTD

All rights reserved. No part of this

magazine may be reproduced by any means

without permission in writing from

the publisher.

All photographs by Camerapix unless

otherwise indicated.

4 All Change for Kampala – so Much to See and DoA review of Kampala’s attractions; why it is still regarded as one of Africa’s most favoured cities.

CONTENTS WELCOME ABOARD

REGULARS

Editorial by Technical Director, Air Uganda

Book World

Air Uganda Flight Schedule

News Page

Healthy Travelling

Route Map

Offices

Tips for the Traveller

Crossword Puzzle & Sudoku

9 An Exciting Safari Circuit in AfricaDiscover the créme de la créme of Africa’s safari circuits.

14 Truly Magical Coast IdyllWhat is it about the coast that makes you want to return?

18 Burton and Speke – Journey to the Source of the NileTwo brave explorers with one quest; to discover the source of the White Nile River. Was mission accomplished?

22 Chimpanzees – our Primate RelativesTo see chimpanzees in the wild, here are few options where sightings can be almost certainly guaranteed.

35 Illustrious IlluminationsFrom grapes to snakes, weird to wonderful, candles come in all shapes and sizes.

40 The Dark Side of the WebIs there more to the internet than meets the eye?

43 Malaria – Fresh Hope for an Effective VaccineHere is good news for tropical and sub-tropical Africa, where the disease is seen as a major factor holding back economic development.

44 The Medicinal Qualities of GingerForming the bases for innumerable dishes, this seasoning is, today, employed on a large scale in almost every country throughout the globe.

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Cover picture: A chimpanzee, one of the many primates found in Kibale Forest.

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38 Buying it or Leaving it?To accept or not to accept people’s opinions, that is the question.

26 The Tree of LifeBaobab: the oldest living thing in Africa, standing as a silent witness to history, to the passing of people and seasons, life and death.

30 Ssese IslandsIt is considered as one of the world’s most beautiful places, a tourist destination for those in search of dense forests, exotic birds and monkeys.

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where the present Lubiri, or Kabaka’s Palace, lake and court

of justice is situated. All these usually figure on any city tour

itinerary. Kibuli Hill boasts Kampala’s oldest mosque, established

even before Christian missionaries chose Namirembe Hill for

St. Paul’s Anglican Cathedral. Two more hills were quickly claimed

by the Roman Catholic missions – Lubaga Hill for the White

Fathers’ for St. Mary’s Cathedral, and Nsambya Hill where

Nsambya Hospital now stands.

The remaining hill of Kampala’s original ‘magnificent seven’

is Kasubi Hill. It is of great significance to the Baganda people

because it houses the Kasubi Tombs complex, dating from 1881,

where four of the great Kabakas are buried. Unfortunately, a

fire earlier this year means some entry restrictions are in place

during reconstruction work. It is a World Heritage Site, so its

familiar, steeply-pitched thatched roofs should soon be fully

restored as one of Kampala’s most enduring cultural symbols.

With the coming of the Uganda Railway and increased

colonial involvement, the city grew rapidly and more hills were

added to the list. Nakasero Hill, with the railway yards along its

southern edge, became the main governmental, financial and

administrative centre. The Parliament Building, the East African

Development Bank headquarters, most of the best hotels and

some of the city’s wealthier residential areas are situated in

Nakasero. Makerere is a name known far outside East Africa for

its fine university and other educational facilities. Naturally, it is

on a hill of that name, and well placed for Central Kampala and

Nakasero.

In spite of all the development, there are still plenty of tree-

lined avenues and green spaces. Lush wetlands where impala

herds and lions once roamed have been manicured into golf

courses, gardens and parks, and tastefully designed high-rise

blocks vie with the hills for a place on the skyline.

The favourable climate of the area, however, remains a

constant, including welcome breezes (and the occasional

theatrical thunderstorm) from the vast, glittering sheet of Lake

Victoria to the south. Kampala sits almost on the equator, but

its altitude (1,200 metres/4,000 feet) keeps temperatures

to a fairly comfortable daytime range of 25-28 ºC. The rainfall

pattern is typically equatorial, with two distinct wet seasons.

Above:

City of Kampala

founded on

seven hills.

Left:

Modern

shopping mall,

Kampala.

Right:

Nakasero

Market.

The remaining hill of Kampala’s original ‘magnificent seven’ is Kasubi Hill

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Kampala

Kampala is unusual among the major cities of Africa in that it can truly claim to

have been a thriving capital of an important kingdom even before colonial times.

Wisely, Mutesa I, the Kabaka of the Kingdom of Buganda (1856-84), had settled

on this area of pleasant hills set among game-filled wetlands as a suitable place for the

kingly pursuits of holding court and hunting. It already had a name – Kampala – after the

great herds of impala antelope that flourished here. But even Mutesa could hardly have

foreseen what an excellent choice it would turn out to be.

When the first Europeans, in the form of the British explorers John Hanning Speke

and James Grant, arrived on the northern shore of Africa’s second largest lake, they

were looking for the source of the Nile. In 1862, Mutesa welcomed them to his palace

compound on one of the hills, and from then on, Kampala was on course to become the

capital of the whole of Uganda, and is still regarded as one of Africa’s most favoured

cities.

The newcomers were quick to point out that when it came to capitals and hills, seven

seemed to be a magic number. Kampala Hill, also known as Old Kampala, became the

site of Lord Lugard’s colonial fort, since reconstructed elsewhere to make way for the

imposing Gaddafi Mosque, the largest in sub-Saharan Africa. To the south is Mengo Hill

ALL CHANGE FOR KAMPALA – so Much to See and Do

>>

Above:

Kampala’s

fast growing

skyline reflects

Uganda’s

dynamic

growth.

Right:

Buganda

Parliament and

statue of the

current king,

Kabaka

Mutebi II.

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Text: Kate Nivison

Kampala

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Reservations: + 256 (312) 550 000+ 256 (414) 550 [email protected]

www.proteahotels.com/kampala

BEour

Kampala

The short, but heavier, rains are from

February to June, with April definitely

the wettest month. The longer, more

moderate rains are from August to

December. Although rain can fall at

any time of year, the driest months are

January, which is also the hottest, and

July which is a few degrees cooler.

Most visitors today arrive by air, at

Entebbe International Airport, now much

enlarged and renovated to cope with a

big increase in traffic as Kampala comes

into its own again as a major hub for

continental communications. Entebbe itself

is a pleasant settlement on a peninsula

jutting into Lake Victoria with its own zoo/

animal orphanage and botanical gardens.

It is only half an hour’s scenic lakeside

drive into the bustling heart of the capital.

The usual way of getting around

Kampala is by taxi – at least until the

promised new public transport bus system

gets under way. Those in a hurry or on

a tight budget prefer to dodge through

the traffic by flagging down a boda-boda,

a motorcycle ‘taxi’ which got its name

from the owners touting for passengers

by yelling “border, border!” at those

crossing into Kenya the hard way. Asking

for a crash helmet and to see the driver’s

license offers some protection.

Apart from ‘heading for the hills’ to

take in the older cultural, historic and

religious sites already mentioned, visitors

with limited time will find plenty to see

using short taxi hops from the main hotel

districts. Popular drop-offs including the

Uganda Museum where it is possible to

try out traditional musical instruments,

the Ugandan National Theatre with its

big crafts centre and Nakasero Market.

Anyone wanting the full-on African market

experience, complete with a traditional

medicine section, should try Owino

Market, perhaps taking on one of the

many available local ‘guides’ to explain

what’s what and help with the necessary

bargaining.

One unexpected pleasure is the relative

tranquillity of another of Kampala’s noted

religious sites, the Baha’i Temple on

Kikaya Hill. Head for the Northern By-Pass

where it is easily recognisable by its large

Above: The Kasubi Tombs house the

remains of four former Buganda

kings.

Left: Baha’i Temple near Kampala.

Below left: Kibuli Mosque, Kampala’s

oldest mosque.

Below: Namirembe Cathedral also

known as St. Paul’s Cathedral, is

Uganda’s oldest cathedral.

>>

>>

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The single most exciting safari circuit in Africa? Well, a few obvious candidates spring to mind. But a

creeping leftfield contender – one that might well get my final vote – is the road loop through western

Uganda’s Murchison Falls, Kibale Forest, Queen Elizabeth, Bwindi and Lake Mburo National Parks. True,

when it comes to sheer volumes of plains game, Uganda would register some distance below neighbouring

Tanzania or Kenya. But equally, its rich mosaic of rainforest, savannah, montane and wetland habitats does

harbour an almost peerless diversity of large fauna. Where else, over the space of a few days, could one

hike to within a few metres of gorillas and chimpanzees, navigate tropical waterways bustling with hippo

and elephant, explore open plains grazed by thousands of kob antelope and attendant prides of well-fed

lions, and tick a host of iconic African birds ranging from the flamboyant great blue turaco to the uniquely

peculiar shoebill? The answer, quite simply, is nowhere else – in Uganda, and in Uganda only.

An Exciting Safari Circuit in Africa

A Fortnight in UgandaThe following sites, listed in clockwise order,

can all be included in a two-week organised or

self-drive tour of western Uganda emanating

from Kampala:

Text: Philip Briggs

destination: Uganda

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green dome. The only one of its kind in Africa, the Baha’i Temple

is much appreciated for the beauty and symbolism of its design,

both exterior and interior, and its extensive grounds and gardens.

Dedicated shoppers, or those in search of a bite to eat, will

find air-conditioned comfort in the various large shopping malls

that are now as much a feature of Kampala as any major city.

Conveniently situated between two golf courses near Nakasero’s

hotel district is the up-market Garden City Centre, ideal for those

who want quality groceries, designer clothing and other luxury

items under one roof, combined with a good range of places to

eat. Further out in the western suburbs is Kasumba Square Mall

for good value and lots of atmosphere, while Lugogo Shopping

Mall is known for locally produced and packaged traditional foods.

With around 1.5 million people to feed and so much

international involvement, Kampala has a huge choice of

restaurants to satisfy every purse and palate, from street stalls

to up-market hotel food and restaurants from almost every

continent. Curry houses are especially popular, and fresh lake fish

appears on many menus.

Uganda itself is often advertised as the Pearl of Africa, under

the ‘big four’ headings of wildlife, safaris, beach and culture. In

fact, even if time is limited to only a few days for business in

Kampala, it’s possible to catch all four of these within a one-day

range of the city. There are now many local companies, large and

small, offering visitors a good choice of half-day or one-day tours

that will surprise by their variety of what there is to see and do.

Half-day city tours are a good introduction to Kampala’s sights

and sounds. Out-of-town half-day tours can go as far as a trip by

speedboat on Lake Victoria to Ngamba Chimpanzee Island which

won the 2009 Virgin Holidays Award for responsible tourism.

If you can spare a full day, taking a more traditional boat to this

famous primate sanctuary allows more time to see other wildlife

on the lake as well, and possibly a (crocodile-free) dip. Another

popular full-day destination is Budango Forest Reserve where

trekking to see chimpanzees in the wild is a feature. The Reserve

is now managed by the Jane Goodall Institute, and overnight stays

are also possible. For any place where contact with chimpanzees

is likely, strict health precautions are in force and it’s as well to

check beforehand what vaccination/inoculation certificates are

required.

Jinja, only 80 kilometres from Kampala, where the world’s

longest river leaves Lake Victoria on its journey to the

Mediterranean Sea, is another must-do day trip. Nearing the

town the road crosses the Nile by way of the Owen Falls Dam.

Not far downstream are the lovely Bujagali Falls and stretches

of rapids that tempt white-water rafters, kayakers and others in

search of an adrenaline rush to battle the cascading waters.

Back in Kampala, there’s plenty of nightlife for those with

energy still to burn. A lot of it is centred round the big hotels and

restaurants, but every district has its favourite bars and watering

holes. It’s a city with something of a reputation when it comes to

drinking and partying, and casinos are a feature of some of the

larger hotels.

Kampala

Above:

The main

building of

Makerere

University

in Kampala,

one of East

Africa’s finest

institutes of

higher learning.

Right:

Monument

marking

the 100th

anniversary

of Kampala’s

founding

stands in the

city’s centenary

park.

>>

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destination: Ugandadestination: Uganda

>>

Lake Mburo National ParkMburo’s status as the last Ugandan stronghold for the impala

is unlikely to have any southern African visitor salivating in

anticipation. But the park does protect a fabulously authentic

chunk of acacia woodland, and what game still remains – most

prominently buffalo, warthog, eland, zebra and impala – is

prolific. Boat trips on the lake are a treat, and the woodland

birding – including species found nowhere else in Uganda,

such as red-faced barbet and bare-faced go-away bird – makes

for a welcome change from craning necks toward the forest

canopy. It is ideally placed for an overnight stop between

Kampala and Bwindi.

Bwindi National ParkFor most visitors, Gorilla tracking in Bwindi (or nearby Mgahinga) will rank as the

highlight of a trip to Uganda. But the forest-swathed hills of Bwindi harbour almost 100

mammal species in total, including rainforest specialists such as chimpanzee, L’Hoest’s

monkey and the outsized yellow-backed duiker, and one of the most extensive butterfly

checklists in the world. More than 350 bird species are present and the short road

leading uphill from the park headquarters is one of the best. Forest birding sites in

Uganda – up to 50 species might be seen over three to four hours, including several

of the park’s 23 Albertine Rift endemics, bar-tailed trogon and black bee-eater. Deeper

into the park, Mubwindi Swamp is the only non-Congolese locality for the eagerly sought

African green broadbill.

Lake BunyonyiSituated in the southwestern highlands, Lake

Bunyonyi is a 30-kilometre-long blocked river

system whose irregular shore follows the

contours of the steep hills that enclose it. Better

known as a chill-out spot than for scintillating

wildlife viewing, Bunyonyi – which translates

as place of little birds – does support a varied

avifauna, and the normally elusive yellow-

spotted otter is remarkably common around the

lakeshore and island resorts. Lake Bunyonyi is a

great place to unwind for a day or two.

Entebbe Botanical GardensThe botanical garden in Entebbe doesn’t compare to any of

a dozen forest reserves scattered elsewhere in Uganda.

But, situated only three kilometres from the country’s only

international airport, it is highly accessible, and the nominal

entrance fee buys some peerless urban birdwatching – great

blue and Ross’s turaco, broad-billed roller, black-and-white

casqued hornbill, swamp flycatcher, yellow-throated leaflove,

red-chested sunbird and half-a-dozen weavers not found in

southern Africa – as well as semi-habituated troops of the

dashing black-and-white colobus monkey.

Rafting the NileThe series of Grade Five rapids along the Nile downstream of its

source at Jinja is one of the most thrilling rafting destinations

in the world, and – with no fatalities recorded to date – far less

dangerous than the Zambezi Gorge. Three rafting operators

run day excursions out of Jinja and Kampala all year through,

while the recent introduction of quad-biking, kayaking and bungy-

jumping has made the entry point at Bujagali Falls a serious rival

to the more established southerly ‘adrenaline capitals’ of Victoria

Falls and Cape Town.

>>

Page 9: Inflight Magazine

12 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010 aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 13 may – july 2010 | air uganda | 1

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1. Staff Outsourcing.2. Staff Recruitment.3. Training and Personal development.4. In-depth staff background checks.

NFT Consult – UGANDA Plot 6/8 Kyaggwe Road, Nakasero, Kampala. P.O.Box 26411 Tel: 256 (0) 414-237904/24 256 (0) 312-266904

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NTF.indd 1 4/14/10 3:41:41 PM

destination: Uganda

Queen Elizabeth National Park (QENP)Savannah, forest and open water converge in

QENP to create a riot of biodiversity attested to

by a bird checklist exceeding 600 species – in an

area only one-tenth the size of the Kruger Park!

A profusion of waterbirds, hippo, elephant and

buffalo are likely to be seen from boat trips on

the Kazinga Channel, while the fringing woodland

often throws up leopard and giant forest hog. The

Maramagambo Forest harbours a wide variety of

forest monkeys, birds and butterflies, Chambura

Gorge is an excellent site for chimp tracking, and

the remote Ishasha Plains are known for tree-

climbing lions. There are crater lakes tinged pink

by thousands of flamingos, as well as Uganda’s

only Ramsar Wetland Site – home to shoebill,

sitatunga and other papyrus specialists – all set

below the craggy glacial peaks of the Ruwenzoris.

No other conservation area quite so encapsulates

the full scenic and faunal diversity of East Africa.

Kibale Forest National ParkKibale Forest is best known for its chimpanzees

– the most easily located and fully habituated

community in Uganda. The main road through the

forest is an excellent place to look for other diurnal

primates – grey-cheeked mangabey, red colobus,

black-and-white colobus – and it’s not unusual to see

20 different types of butterfly fluttering around one

puddle. A guided walk through the adjacent Bigodi

Wetland Sanctuary, an exemplary community-run

project, provides a great introduction to Uganda’s

forest fauna. I’ve regularly seen five different primate

species here, as well as up to 50 forest and swamp

birds including papyrus gonolek, red-headed bluebill

and yellow-billed barbet.

destination: Uganda

>>

Kasenda Crater LakesWhether explored in their own right or used as

a base from which to visit Kibale Forest, the 30-

odd crater lakes dotted around the small town

of Kasenda form one of the most scenic parts

of Uganda, spectacularly so when the Ruwenzori

peaks emerge from their customary veil of clouds.

The area offers much to hikers, particularly those

on a restricted budget, while relict forest patches

such as the small Lake Nkuruba Nature Sanctuary

(another estimable community-run project) harbour

black-and-white colobus, great blue and Ross’s

turaco, African grey parrot, splendid starling and

various other forest primates and birds.

Murchison Falls National Park (MFNP)Uganda’s largest conservation area is named for the

impressive waterfall that explodes in a cacophonous

roar of foaming white-water through a narrow cleft

in the Rift Valley escarpment. Boat trips on the

Nile below the falls are a perennial delight, for the

spectacular densities of hippos and waterbirds, and

seriously scary crocodiles. The palm-studded northern

grassland harbours thousands of kob, a burgeoning

lion population, herds of 50-plus Rothschild’s giraffe,

plenty of elephant and buffalo, smaller herds of oribi

and Jackson’s hartebeest, and some noteworthy birds

including Abyssinian ground hornbill, black-headed

lapwing and Denham’s bustard. Chimp tracking in the

Budongo Forest can be undertaken as a day excursion

from MFNP.

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Left:

The Shoebill

is a very large

stork-like bird. It

derives its name

from its massive

shoe-shaped bill.

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destination: East African Coast

1. Narrow streets of Lamu town.

2. A windsurfer finds his paradise on the Indian Ocean.

3. Sundown over the Kenya Coast.

4 & 9. Diving in Indian Ocean waters reveals a myriad of

beautiful fish and spectacular coral formations.

5. Gedi ruins – the mysterious ‘lost city’.

6. Veiled beauty in the all enveloping bui-bui traditional

Islamic dress.

7. Tourists stroll along one of the coastal beaches. Sun,

sea and sand – part of the Kenya magic.

There are about 483 kilometres (300 metres) of coastline

between the Somali and Tanzanian borders: between

headlands of black cliffs, you can find perhaps a 24

kilometres (15 miles) sweep of a bay or small lagoon, always palm

or casuarina-fringed with white, fine-grained sand beaches. The

inshore waters are polished blues and greens and fully sheltered by

a parallel reef of coral garden.

The Kenya beach holiday offers a range from castaway to

five-star comfort, anything from desert island camp Waikiki-style

hotels. Deep-sea fishing, water-sports, and sunbathing are all

available.

The climate is benign. Although the sun shines almost every day

of the year, the subtropical heat and humidity are usually tempered

by a cooling breeze. Shade temperatures rarely rise above 25

degrees centigrade.

Water skiing is possible, watching out for hidden coral heads at

low tide. So is sailing or wind surfing or deep sea fishing off Malindi

for marlin, saltfish, wahoo, tunny, bonito and falusi. For snorkellers

and skin divers, Kenya’s reefs and lagoons are listed as a national

heritage, fully protected as marine national parks. In one day, in

one small coral garden the display may range from the tiny zebra,

parrot, scorpion, butterfly and bat fish to huge Tewa – rock cod or

groupers – weighing upwards of 240 kilogrammes (but for all their

weight, shy, harmless creatures of the deep).

Shimoni, close to Tanzania, is the most popular fishing centre

and also provides excursions to the nearby marine national park.

Closer to Mombasa, Diani is perhaps Kenya’s most popular resort,

lined with impressive hotels and a magnificent beach.

Mombasa, Kenya’s most ancient city was first mentioned in the

Periplus of the Erythraean Sea and marked on second century

maps by Ptolemy, the Egyptian astronomer and cartographer.

Islam is the culture and faith which has shaped this island port for

1,000 years. For centuries it was part of the Sultanate of Zanzibar

and, before that, part of a loose federation of independent Islamic >>

Truly Magical Coast Idyll1

2

destination: East African CoastPho

to ©

Cam

erap

ix P

ublis

hers

/Kar

l Am

man

n

Asante reports.

Pho

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© C

amer

apix

Page 11: Inflight Magazine

16 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

Today, a modern bridge links the island with the north mainland

and the tourist resorts beyond. These include Nyali, Bamburi

and Shanzu beaches, Mtwapa Creek, Kikambala, Kilifi Creek – a

magnificent inland harbour flanked by high cliffs – Watamu and

Turtle Bay, Malindi and Lamu Archipelago. In the vicinity are lost

Arabian cities like Gedi and Shanga, towns which were suddenly

abandoned (for what reason nobody really knows) sometimes

around the 16th century.

Lamu is a living anachronism – a thousand-year-old island port

embalmed in antiquity. The sense of the past is tangible, endowing

the town with a unique charm. In the narrow streets, sloe-eyed

women are clad in black veils (bui-buis) and motes of sun filter

through the gloom as carved doors open and close to reveal a

tantalizing glimpse of a patio garden.

Beyond this, north of Lamu, is a partially excavated treasure of

lost Islamic civilisations – ports and villages which flourished when

Europe was just emerging from its dark age. The ruins remain,

adding to the mystique of what is inevitably an unforgettable holiday

on the Kenya coast.

>> states no bigger than the towns in which the citizens lived – Gedi,

Pate, Lamu, Manda and Zanzibar. Mombasa was the prize; its

sheltered creeks on either side provided deep and safe anchorages

and, for its merchants, the prospects of profitable trading.

The Portuguese navigator Vasco da Gama was chased away in

the 15th century but others of his countrymen returned to take the

town and build the massive Fort Jesus. Later, in the 19th century,

Britain’s anti-slavery squadrons brought a new form of imperialism.

Each influence has grafted something onto the physical

appearance of the town, now an appealing mixture of African,

Swahili, Islamic, Victorian English and other imported architectural

styles. Hindu temples (one with spires tipped with 40 kilogrammes

of solid gold glittering in the sun above two doors of solid silver) are

built alongside Muslim mosques. Christian churches have multiplied

on the rock of the first cathedral near the law Courts and the old

colonial administration offices.

The town has rapidly become city, but beneath the facade of

progress, Mombasa’s traditional base remains. For example,

Arabian dhows still call at the Old Harbour.

8

9

10

Kenya’s reefs and lagoons are listed as a national heritage, fully protected as marine national parks

8. Colourful

dhows moored

along the sea

wall.

10. Ivory Siwa

on Lamu is an

outstanding

piece of islamic

craftsmanship.

Pho

to ©

Cam

erap

ix p

ublis

hers

/Kar

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man

ndestination: East African Coast

Driver Training for harsh environments

www.OnCourse4wd.com tech @ OnCourse4wd.com

+256 772 22 11 07

GOLF COURSEHOTEL KAMPALA

Page 12: Inflight Magazine

18 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010 aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 19

Speke seemed almost as suitable: He joined the Army of the

East India Company in 1844, where he later served under Field

Marshal, Sir Colin Campbell during the First Anglo-Sikh War. He

was 29 and had considerable experience in collecting botanical

and zoological specimens during his leave in the Himalayas

and was also an accomplished surveyor. Although appearing

complimentary, the two personalities were in fact utterly

incompatible and the violent confrontations between Burton and

Speke that followed saw armchair geographers taking bitterly

opposed sides.

Other explorers were involved in the debate, including David

Livingstone, who died whilst trying to clear up the Burton or

Speke Nile controversy; Henry Morton Stanley who found his

vocation in Africa; James Augustus Grant who joined Speke’s

second expedition to Africa; and Samuel Baker because he went

to verify Speke’s theories.Burton was an enigmatic character,

and had developed a taste for wine, women, fighting, gambling,

mysticism, daredevilry and languages. They were the precious

tools with which to satisfy his insatiable curiosity about exotic

peoples. In India, Burton’s rapid mastering of Persian, Afghan,

Hindi, Urdu, and Arabic won him the friendship of Sir Charles

Napier, the British general and Commander-in-Chief, famous

for conquering the Sindh (in present day Pakistan), to whom he

rendered superlative service as an intelligence officer. He earned

the animosity of his superiors in the East India Company when

he told them that they were losing touch with their subjects and

made an accurate prediction of the approximate date of The

Indian Rebellion of 1857, which began as a mutiny of sepoys

of the East India Company’s army on 10 May 1857, in the

town of Meerut.

In 1854 an earlier expedition led by Burton to penetrate

central Africa from the Somali coast led to disaster. He was

accompanied by Speke and two fellow officers, Lieutenant G.E.

Herne and Lieutenant William Stroyan and a number of Africans

employed as porters. Shortly after they met on the coast, their

party was attacked by a group of Somali warriors.

In the ensuing fight, Stroyan was killed and Burton and Speke

were both severely wounded. Speke was captured and stabbed

several times with spears before he was able to free himself and

escape. Burton was impaled with a javelin, the point entering one

cheek and exiting the other. This wound left him with a notable

scar that can be easily seen on portraits and photographs. He

was forced to make his escape with the weapon still transfixed

through his head. The expedition was only saved from destruction

because a friendly Arab boatman took the survivors back to

Aden. Although Burton, in his report to the RGS criticised Speke

he nonetheless annexed Speke’s notes on the botany and zoology

of the area to his report. Speke felt humiliated and ill-used; their

relationship was already an explosive, psychic mixture.

Speke, as fair and charming as Burton was saturnine and

sarcastic, was born of a Devon family whose origins went back to

the Norman Conquest of 1066. He was a fanatic about personal

fitness, dominated by his mother and sisters, awkward in the

company of women and had a narcissistic tinge to his make-up.

He joined the Army of the East India Company at the age of 17,

and his duties took him to the Punjab.

In India Speke had the good fortune to meet James Grant,

the Scot who was to play an important role in the future. Grant

had been commissioned in the East India Company’s Army in

1846, and served during the Anglo-Sikh Wars and Mutiny of

1857. Grant was loyal, obedient, and fully capable of carrying

out his duties independently if necessary, but also willing to follow

an order to the letter. In this friendship however, Speke was

the impetuous leader, while Grant was the cautious, admiring

follower.

Despite his blundering during the earlier expedition, Speke was

invited by Burton to join his official “Great Lakes” expedition to

central Africa in 1856. Burton later said that he took Speke to

“give him another chance”. Speke was however determined to be

associated with the Nile discoveries.

history

Above:

Some of

the African

porters who

accompanied

Burton and

Speke on

their historic

expedition to

find the source

of the Nile.

Right:

An early

illustration

depicting John

Hanning Speke

restraining the

hand of Mutesa

I, the reigning

Kabaka (King)

of Buganda,

who was about

to strike a

tribeswoman

accused of theft.

>>

Above:

On 3 August

1858, from

Isamilo Hill near

Jinja, Speke

first saw the

main waters of

the Sea of

Ukewere (Lake

Victoria), which

he afterwards

proved to be

the source of

the Nile.

Throughout recorded history there have been times when

the urge to explore previously unknown parts of the world

has captured the imagination of whole races, to the

surprise and often consternation of those on the receiving end

of these expeditions. Alexander the Great, Henry the Navigator,

Christopher Columbus – each led expeditions which were to have

consequences that resonated through the ages.

In the middle of the 19th century, the river Nile, one of the

greatest remaining challenges for explorers, still had its origins

behind a barrier of fetid swamps, fatal diseases and seemingly

ferocious tribesmen. Its mystery was compounded by reports of

fabulous lakes and mountains.

This challenge fired the imagination of The Royal Geographical

Society (RGS), who had a particular interest in determining the

source of the Nile. Thus, in a series of expeditions between

1856 and 1877, several British explorers were sent to unravel

the mystery of the source of the Nile. This river, the longest

in the world, flowed through the desert, yet brought life in its

floodwater every year. Where did all this water come from?

The sudd – Arabic word for obstacle – a huge, papyrus-clogged

swamp, thwarted earlier attempts to follow the river upstream.

Until 1856 little was known of the source of the Nile, the

great river that was the cradle of western civilisation, which had

been known to the Greek geographer Ptolemy, in AD 150. He

had reported that the Nile originated in two great lakes in central

Africa about 10 degrees south of the Equator, and flanked by the

peaks of the “Mountains of the Moon”. This explanation had been

incorporated in a map made by an Arab geographer about

AD 1100.

BURTON & SPEKE

In the mid-1850’s, the mysteries of the Niger and the Blue

Nile solved, scientific curiosity reverted to the next of Africa’s

great rivers, the White Nile. European missionaries and traders

had ascended it as far as the border of Uganda, but beyond here

its course was unknown. In 1856, there was a growing feeling

within the RGS that the time was at hand to settle the matter.

Entered Lieutenant Richard Francis Burton of the East India

Company’s Bombay Light Infantry, a swarthy, moustached man of

35 who offered to take an expedition into the region. Burton was

already famous for a number of illustrious expeditions. He had

a remarkable intellect and combined broad-ranging scholarship

with eccentric, libertine behaviour.

While in India, he often donned native garb, perfecting his

ability to pass as a ‘local’. It was this ability to shed his British

persona that enabled him, in 1853, to travel an equally perilous

journey to Makkah and Madinah disguised as a Muslim Pathan

(a native of north-west Pakistan or Afghanistan) and, the

following year, to enter the ‘forbidden city’ of Harar (in modern

Ethiopia). However, in his later African journeys, he played the

role of English gentleman to the hilt.

The Society accepted his offer, sufficient funds were raised,

and the East India Company granted him leave. Burton selected

as his companion, fellow Indian army officer Lieutenant John

Hanning Speke. These two individuals seemed perfectly suited

to the task. Burton was already known for his bold exploits and

although he had blighted his prospects in the Indian Service

by his bluntness, he was not yet the frighteningly controversial

figure he was to become. His linguistic abilities and his evident

valour and resourcefulness made him an obvious leader.

history

Journey to the Source of the Nileby Rosemary Holthusen.

Pho

tos

cour

tesy

: Pet

er H

olth

usen

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20 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

Their position now seemed so desperate that Burton decided

to return to Zanzibar with news of the discoveries thus far made.

Speke later claimed that he suggested that they should march

north from Ujiji, to the Sea of Ukewere but Burton felt unable

to do so, even though the relief caravan had arrived. It had

been badly plundered en route and the goods it brought quite

insufficient to enable the party to barter its way onwards. Had

a further journey been possible, Burton would have discovered

that Lake Tanganyika was 644 kilometres (400 miles) long. As

Burton continued with his ethnological investigations Speke was

furious by the time being wasted, so he persuaded Burton to

permit him to take a small party on a three week trek to the

reputed ‘Sea’ to the north.

Speke made a momentous foray northwards, and three weeks

later, on 3 August 1858, beheld the huge expanse of the Sea of

Ukewere, which he decided in a flash of inspiration was at last

the Ptolemaic source of the Nile. He then hurried back to Burton

to announce the great discoveries. Burton at first received the

information coldly, then whilst acknowledging that Speke had

found ‘a’ lake, demanded what possible proof he had that it was

in fact ‘the’ lake.

And so began an historic quarrel, Speke arguing – without

foundation, but accurately – that Lake Victoria was the birthplace

of the Nile, and Burton countering that it was Lake Tanganyika.

After convalescing, Burton returned to England to find that Speke

had already presented his version to Sir Roderick Murchison, the

President of the RGS.

To Burton’s chagrin, the RGS favoured Speke’s conclusions,

and in 1860 Speke was sent back with James Grant for further

exploration. Over the next three years, the two made many

discoveries, including the Ripon Falls, where the Nile flows from

Lake Victoria. However, they failed to prove Speke’s theory

because they did not trace the continuous course of the river.

The conflicting claims of Burton and Speke resulted in a debate

being scheduled at the RGS for 16 September 1864. On the

day before the meeting, however, Speke died under mysterious

circumstances while shooting partridge on the Neston Park

Estate, Corsham in Wiltshire. Although probably accidental, the

Burton camp would forever claim suicide.

In 1857, the two partners embarked at Bombay and landed

at Zanzibar. They made hasty preparations for the march inland

from Bagamoyo (in modern Tanzania). With help from the British

Consul, Colonel Atkins Hamerton, Burton and Speke assembled

their party which included 36 African porters, 10 gun-carrying

slaves, four drivers and a posse of Baluchi soldiers to protect

them. There was much additional equipment required including

ammunition, medicines, stores and an iron boat in seven

sections intended to enable them to explore the great lake. As

a consequence a second caravan was organised to carry the

additional stores. On 25 June 1857, the march began.

In the early stages of the expedition Burton overheard the

Hindus telling each other that he would never get as far as

Ugogo (not a third of the distance) whereupon they would

seize all his belongings; he then had his moment of despair.

The caravan proved to be only nominally under the command

of its European leaders. The column moved at its own pace;

indiscipline was the rule, theft endemic, and desertions began as

soon as the men marched from the coast.

Within three weeks they had covered 190 kilometres (118

miles) with more than 966 kilometres (600 miles) ahead of

them, both men were already so sick they often had to be

carried. Smallpox was rife and the way was well marked by the

bones of slaves who had died of this and other diseases. When

they finally reached Morogoro they were, said Burton “physically

and morally incapacitated”. At this point the Baluchi soldiers

mutinied and had to be quelled by an emaciated Burton who

faced them down with a revolver in his hand.

Throughout the journey, and despite his ill-health,

Burton continued his ethnological studies, which were so

uncomplimentary to the black people that they are unprintable

today. By the time they reached Ugogo, half the supplies

intended to last a year had been consumed or stolen. This was

very serious because the local tax, called hongo payable to

chieftains over whose land they passed was rising progressively

and had to be paid out of the supplies they carried.

The traveller’s health improved as they reached the savannah

country. Tattered and emaciated, the two Englishmen walked

into Kazeh on 7 November 1857, Speke was almost blind with

opthalmia. There they learned that there was not one but three

great lakes or seas: the Sea of Niassa to the south; the Sea of

Ujiji (Lake Tanganyika) just ahead, and the Sea of Ukewere (Lake

Victoria) to the north. On the morning of 14 December 1857

they were in sight of Lake Tanganyika and despite their incapacity

and disabilities they attempted to explore the lake in a canoe,

much too small a craft for such a large body of water.

The most urgent task was to find what outlets there were

from the lake, and thus to decide whether the Nile had its origins

here. But they were unable to reach the northern end of the

lake. However, the natives assured them that at the northern

end there was a river, the Ruzizi, which flowed into and not out of

the lake, meaning it could not be the source of the Nile.

history

>>

Above:

An engraving

of Speke

and James

Augustus

Grant

addressing

the members

of the Royal

Geographical

Society

after their

triumphant

return to

London in

1863.

Page 14: Inflight Magazine

22 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010 aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 23

field assistants and a privileged group

of postgraduate students from all over

the world who earned their research

degrees by studying different aspects of

the chimpanzees’ behaviour and ecology.

The chimpanzees themselves became the

stars of many screen documentaries.

One hundred miles to the south of

Gombe lie the Mahale Mountains National

Park, where Japanese primatologists led

by Toshisada Nishida have been studying

chimpanzees since 1965. Over the years

many other observers in different places

have added to the knowledge and insights

of fieldworkers at Gombe and Mahale, and

several other long-term projects are in full

swing: Christopher Boesch and Hedwige

Boesch-Achermann in the Tai Forest of

the Ivory Coast, CarolineTutin and Michael

Fernandez in the Lope Reserve of Gabon,

and Richard Wrangham and Isabirye

Basuta in the Kibale Forest of Uganda.

CHIMPANZEES

Dawn in the high mountain rain forests of Uganda comes

slowly. Rain clouds darken the sky, shrouding the

mountain in mist and hiding the emerging sun. Gradually,

as the light filters through, definition comes to the forest.

Everything is muted here, damp, soft. A thousand shades of

green, layer upon layer of verdant life. There are movements on

the forest floor, slight stirrings of life, as the inhabitants rise.

The dawn mists part reluctantly over the canopy of the

Kibale Forest National Park. As the sky lightens, a huge male

chimpanzee stirs in his sleep. Around him, his little group of

three females and a younger adult male doze fitfully, huddled in

the warmth of their night nests. Tucked in beside the females are

their young, one of whom peers warily around and then clambers

off the nest to find his half-sister. He peers intently at her, an

outstretched hand inviting her to play. Rain falls often, and the

apes sit stoically, their arms folded against the cold, as rain drips

from their long black coats.

Gradually, the sun rises, drawing the chill from the ground; the

group stirs one by one, adults rolling over and stretching legs

cramped by the nest’s confinement. A few quiet grunts simper

through the still air; another replies. A female begins to feed on

the wild celery that carpets the forest floor. A new dawn begins in

the endless cycle of eating and dozing that sustains life in the cool

mountain air of the most beautiful forest park in Africa.

In the wild, chimpanzees live throughout the West African and

Central African forests. They are one of the four species of Great

Apes, the remainder being the gorillas of Central and Western

Africa, bonobos (also known as pygmy chimpanzees), of the

Democratic Republic of Congo, and the orangutans of Borneo and

Sumatra in Southeast Asia.

The first person from the western world to observe

chimpanzees in the wild was R.L. Garner in the 1890’s. He

built a cage in the middle of a West African jungle – not for the

chimpanzees, but for himself – so that he could sit in safety and

watch any chimpanzees who passed by. He also, incidentally,

spent some time trying to teach apes to talk – without success.

After that, it was some 40 years before the next attempt was

made to learn something about chimpanzees in their natural

habitat. This was in 1930, when Henry Nissen was sent by

primatologist Robert Yerkes to what was then French Guinea.

However, Nissen’s study, which lasted only four months, was

hampered because he insisted on moving through the forests

accompanied by a train of porters carrying his equipment.

It was hardly surprising that he made very few direct

observations, although he did gather some data, especially on

feeding and nesting behaviour. This information, along with

travellers’ tales and a few chance observations – such as those

by the Rev. T.S. Savage, a medical missionary in West Africa

and Jeffries Wyman in the Ivory Coast in 1842 – provided almost

everything that was known of chimpanzee behaviour in the wild

(although the African peoples who lived in or near the forests

could have told us more), until the flurry of field studies began

after the Second World War in the early 1960’s.our Primate Relatives

nature & wildlife nature & wildlife

>>

Since Garner, chimpanzees in various parts of Africa have got

used to assorted tents, cabins and huts, and to people emerging

from them. Indeed, some chimpanzees might find it odd not

to have a human tagging along! Fieldwork really took off in the

1960’s when Adriaan Kortlandt, Vernon Reynolds, Kinji Imanishi,

Junichero Itani and Jane Goodall each ventured into chimpanzee

territory, armed with questions, most of which had more to do

with humans than chimpanzees. It was thought that, being our

closest living relatives, chimpanzees might be able to put flesh

on the bones of our ancestors and help us see our past more

clearly.

They did (Jane Goodall has described watching chimpanzees

as being like turning back the clock); but they also intrigued their

observers so much that the search for our roots soon grew into

interest in them for their own sakes – and continues to grow.

Thanks to over 50 years of observation, Jane Goodall

has made the chimpanzees of the Gombe National Park in

Tanzania the stars of the longest-running fieldwork project ever

undertaken. It all started in 1960, when the young Jane Goodall

began – somewhat uncertainly – to follow the wild chimpanzees of

Gombe, a national park on the wooded slopes above the eastern

shore of Lake Tanganyika in Tanzania (formerly Tanganyika). It

was hard and frustrating work, since the shy chimpanzees could

travel fast and far in the hilly terrain when they wanted to be rid

of this rather slender ape who had attached herself to them. It

was to be the better part of five years before the chimpanzees

were sufficiently habituated to allow her to follow and observe

them continuously. She was also one of the first people to show

that chimpanzees made use of tools and have highly complex

social structures and behaviour.

Nearly half a century later, we look back on the wealth of data

painstakingly recorded by Jane Goodall herself, her Tanzanian

Above: Jane

Goodall

playing with

the sanctuary

orphans,

(foreground)

doing a ‘chimp

call duet’.

Right: A

young orphan

chimpanzee at

the Ngamba

Island

Chimpanzee

Sanctuary in

Uganda.

Above: The more

we learn about

chimpanzees and

the other Great

Apes, the closer

we are to a

complete

understanding of

ourselves.

Left: Grooming

is serious

business for

chimpanzees. It

cements bonds,

and also removes

unwanted ticks

and other

parasites from

their fur.

by Peter Holthusen.

Pho

to ©

Sci

ence

Mus

eum

of M

inne

sota

(ba

ckgr

ound

) &

Mic

hael

Neu

geba

uer

(for

egro

und)

Pho

to ©

Pet

er H

olth

usen

Pho

to ©

Pet

er H

olth

usen

Pho

to ©

Pet

er H

olth

usen

Page 15: Inflight Magazine

24 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010 aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 25

often sleep on the ground, compared to what is thought to be the

more common behaviour of building nests in trees.

Adult males in Kibale have also been observed cooperating to

guard their range against predators, such as lion or leopards,

and to prevent attacks by males from other chimpanzee

communities. Conflicts with neighbouring communities can

sometimes approach all-out warfare. At Gombe, an estimated 25

per cent of all adult male deaths occur during fights with foreign

males that encroach upon their territory or during raids on

another community’s territory.

The more we learn about chimpanzees the more they are

compared to humans, both in their behaviour and relationship to

us. It is now thought that chimpanzees are our closest genetic

relatives, sharing approximately 99 per cent of their DNA with

humans.

While the exact population size is unknown, current estimates

range from 100,000 to 200,000 and they are found in about 20

African countries. This might seem like a lot, but just 100 years ago

there may well have been 10 times this amount. As the territory

and habitat of chimpanzees declines, so too does the population

size. Logging, hunting, civil unrest and growing human populations all

contribute to the loss of habitat and the decline in population.

To observe a chimpanzee in the wild is an experience to behold.

They tap you on the shoulder and remind you that you are not as

special as you think. They show you to your place – next to them.

They remind you that for five million years, ever since humans

took one branch and they took another, they have been living

alongside us. The more we learn about chimpanzees and the

other Great Apes, the closer we are to a complete understanding

of ourselves.

Only 38 years ago, chimpanzee tea parties took place in

London Zoo; now the debate is whether they should perhaps

have a bill of rights (their genetic make-up differs from our own

by a scant 1-1.5 per cent, so by what authority do we set our

judgement of the species? Tea parties at London Zoo were

stopped in 1972, and the famous PG Tips chimps may soon be

history now that people are pointing out how demeaning (to the

chimps) it is to make them behave like us.

Thanks to many years of painstaking conservation it is now

possible to see this most curious of apes in an environment

more suited to its own. In captivity the best places to see

chimpanzees are the various sanctuaries located in a number

of African countries. These sanctuaries accept chimpanzee

orphans, place them in as natural a setting as possible, and look

after their long-term care. Here you can see chimpanzees up

close, watch them interact with other chimpanzees, and learn

about their behaviour and the issues that affect them in the wild.

Most sanctuaries, such as Ngamba Island in Uganda,

Chimfunshi in Zambia, and Pandrillus in Nigeria, have guided

tours and splendid education centres to help visitors get the

most out of their visit and some even have well-appointed guest

houses so the traveller can stay on site.

Some of these sanctuaries house more than 100

chimpanzees, each with his or her individual behaviour and

characteristics. Most have chimpanzees that range from infants

of less than one year old, that need constant care and special

feeding, up to adults of 40 or 50 years old that have spent a

large part of their lives at the sanctuary.

nature & wildlife

>>

nature & wildlife

Lying approximately 23 kilometres southeast of Entebbe on

the vast expanse of Lake Victoria, Ngamba Island is a project

of the Chimpanzees Sanctuary and Wildlife Conservation Trust

(CSWCT), established in 1997 by the Born Free Foundation

(United Kingdom), the International Fund for Animal Welfare

(United States of Africa), the Jane Goodall Institute (Germany and

Uganda), The Uganda Wildlife Education Trust (UWECT) and the

Zoological Board of New South Wales in Australia, and it provides

these orphaned chimpanzees with a secure home to live out their

lives, since a return to their natural habitat is not possible, while

educating visitors and local communities about the species and

the importance of conserving their fragile forest habitat.

Ngamba Island is part of the Koome group of islands and

consists of approximately 100 acres, 98 of which are forested

and separated from the visitors area by an electric fence. The

sanctuary was officially opened to visitors in October 1999 and is

currently home to 40 orphaned chimpanzees, almost half of which

have been confiscated and brought to the island since its opening.

If your mission is to see chimpanzees in the wild there are few options where sightings can be almost certainly guaranteed

If your mission is to see chimpanzees in the wild there are

few options where sightings can be almost certainly guaranteed.

The Gombe National Park in Tanzania is the site of the first, and

longest-running, field-study centre of wild chimpanzees. A trip

here to see the chimpanzees that were made famous by Jane

Goodall can be added to a safari of some of the more well known

game parks, with the forests offering a very different experience

to the savannah of East Africa.

For the more adventurous, there are treks into the forests

of Uganda, such as the Kibale Forest National Park. Perhaps

best known for its chimpanzees, it also contains another 12

primate species – the greatest variety of any forest in central-

eastern Africa, including the rare blue and red-tailed monkeys

and grey-cheeked mangabey. Kibale protects virgin lowland

tropical rainforest, montane evergreen forest and mixed tropical

deciduous forest, while the Maramagambo Forest contains a

healthy population of chimpanzees and a wealth of forest birds

such as the golden-breasted starling, D’Arnaud’s barbet and red-

billed hornbill.

These treks offer the possibility of seeing chimpanzees in the

wild and getting a feel for their forest habitat. Although the main

draw is the chance encounter with a chimpanzee, there is the

added possibility of seeing many other forest animals that share

their home, such as elephants, sitatunga, great herds of Uganda

kob, giant forest hog, buffalo, reedbuck, bushbuck and waterbuck,

not to mention the interesting trees and lush vegetation that

make up the forest.

Formal studies of wild chimpanzees have been going on in

Africa for decades. One site in northern Democratic Republic of

Congo has chimpanzees that tend to be larger than average, and

Above and

below:

Chimps at the

Ngamba Island

Chimpanzee

Sanctuary in

Uganda.Above:

Chimpanzees

usually have

flesh-coloured

ears, noses,

hands and feet

that darken

with age.

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Page 16: Inflight Magazine

26 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010 aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 27

to the Virgin Mary. Here the tree forms a natural, living place

of Christian worship, just as a hollow oak does in Normandy

in northern France. Hollowness is no respecter of religions; in

India, at least one empty space created by the aerial roots of

banyan fig tree has been filled with a Hindu temple, right-handed

swastikas painted on its door posts.

In the harsh dry lands around Keren, young baobab leaves are

a vital source of food for livestock. Year after year branchfuls of

leaves are lopped off, and the trees all have a straggly, limbless

look. The fruits do not last long on the tree either, and are

quickly harvested for the white pith that surrounds the seeds

inside the pod. This pith is the richest natural source of vitamin

C in the world and is either taken as a drink or used to flavour

food. The shrine tree, in contrast to its fellows, is encircled with

a protective fence and approached by an avenue of healing neem

trees. It is tall, rounded – and many – branched, strong and

entire, and was dripping with small fruits. There had obviously

been plenty of bats to pollinate the big white flowers at night.

Growing so huge in such arid areas, baobabs attract whole

communities of life. Their hollowness is one of their prime

attractions – holes in branches as well as great empty trunks.

Whether because of its wholesomeness or being supposedly

closer to God, the shrine tree seemed to have a magnetic

appeal to passing birds. Parrots have a particular affinity for

baobabs, and two brown parrots (their colloquial species name)

noisily showed us where they were living

in a hole high up the trunk. Several

African grey hornbills were hopping

around the naked branches, and a grey

kestrel flew off its tree-top perch just

as we arrived, almost immediately to be

replaced by two magnificent azure and

chestnut Abyssinian rollers. Idly I hoped

one might moult a deep blue streamer

feather as it flew off, but that talisman

was destined to fall at someone else’s

feet. Smaller birds, including a Eurasian

redstart, hopped around on the dusty

ground, searching for seeds and insects

and inspecting the fallen fruit, quite

oblivious to the passing of the holy man in

black and white.

It seems hardly possible to look at a

big baobab without wondering how old it

is. Every taxi driver between Dakar and

Dar es Salaam can show you the oldest

baobab in Africa, but actually they are

usually impossible to age. The best way of

ageing ancient trees is either to carbon-

date them or to count the rings of fallen

or cut ones, but hollow trees foil both

these ploys. Carbon-dating is notoriously

inaccurate, and in any event relies on

wood as old as the tree, which is missing from hollow baobabs.

Counting annual rings is a well tested and generally accurate

way of ageing trees in temperate climes, where trees grow

slowly in the winter and faster in the summer. In the tropics,

though, the seasons are often less marked, trees may grow

more evenly throughout the year, or two rainy seasons in a year

might mean a tree grows two annual rings instead of one.

So, like a dignified woman, the baobab continues to hide its

age, even from the most detailed technical investigation – and

we can all continue to indulge in rampant, romantic guesswork.

The baobab’s Latin name is Adansonia digitata – ‘digitata’

from its five-fingered leaves, and ‘Adansonia’ honouring a French

botanist, Michel Adanson, who introduced the tree to western

science while travelling in Senegal in 1750. Astounded by what

he saw, Adanson haphazardly estimated one tree to be 5,150

years old. A hundred years later his guesswork was under

attack from David Livingstone, whose scientific bet was severely

constrained by his dogmatic beliefs in the Creation theories of

Bishop James Ussher. By counting up the generations from

Adam to Christ, these purported to fix the date of the world’s

creation at 4004 BC. This meant Adanson’s tree would have

been alive at the time of the Great Flood. As no tree could

have survived the Flood, Adanson must have been wrong, or

worse still, was inferring there never had been a Flood! (Still,

Livingstone tried counting annual rings on a tree in Botswana,

feature

>>

Over much of Africa, today as before, people are

living in hollow baobabs, which they may have to

share with bats, birds or even bees. The bulbous

trees are also used as shops and stores. In South Africa a

baobab became a bar and in Zimbabwe a bus shelter, while

in Sudan the hollow trees are treasured as wells called

tebeldis. In Senegal, outcasts from the Sereres people

are buried in coffins suspended in hollow trees, so as not

to pollute the earth – not something that concerned the

Branching into new territory, Rupert Watson reflects on the meaning of life.

feature

The Tree of LifeBritish administrator in the Caprivi Strip, who installed a flush

lavatory in a baobab. A Nigerian baobab has been used as a

prison, and the earliest written description of the tree, by the

14th century Arab traveller, Ibn Battutah, records one in Mali

occupied by a weaver.

Baobabs often act as altars, with votive offerings to some

higher power being laid at their base. However, in Keren,

north of Asmara, there is a hollow baobab which, on 18

July 1881 was consecrated as a Catholic shrine, dedicated

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28 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

coming up with an age of 4,360 – and also carved his initials in

one above Victoria Falls.)

Now the guesswork is rather more informed. By knowing

the age and girth of a young tree, and dangerously assuming

baobabs expand at a constant rate, one can find a figure for

the age of any other tree of known girth. The hollow in the

Keren tree would take three or four people lying down, and a

dozen squeezed together as if they were in a lift. It is not huge

by baobab standards, but this part of Africa is very barren, and

the trees grow much slower than they would in the lotus land of

the East African coast. Perhaps it is a 1,000 years old, and the

wonder is that there is no way to know.

Baobabs are the oldest living things in Africa, and like all great

trees stand as silent witnesses to history, to the passing of

people and seasons, life and death. If the Keren tree is 1,000

years old, did it watch Christians retreating inland as Islam

spread down the Red Sea coast? Have long-gone lions lain in

its shade, and did elephants once gouge out tuskloads of its

younger wood? It may not be old enough to have witnessed the

fourth century heyday of the Axumite Kingdom, but the tree that

dropped the seed from which it grew almost certainly was.

Of all the turmoil that has beset Eritrea, finding itself a

battleground for an extension of the war between rival colonial

powers was perhaps the most unfortunate. Early in 1941,

Italian-occupied, mountain-ringed Keren was relentlessly

bombarded by British artillery. For weeks on end, flying shards

of shell filled the air, seeking out the flesh of Italian soldiers,

three of whom took refuge in the baobab. A huge chunk of

shrapnel scythed a hole into the trunk three metres from the

ground, making an instant window that still lets in the light

today. But the soldiers all survived unscathed, the walls of wood

protecting them from the smaller pieces of metal. The baobab:

shrine, sanctuary, refuge, safety. Since then Eritrea has had its

own wars to fight, and worshippers stop at the tree to pray for

protection and safety for themselves or their loved ones.

Nature meets religion at the Keren shrine, hopefully

awakening in visitors the realisation that as humans we are

simply part of nature, not somewhere far above it. The Earth

is an ant in the savannah of the universe, a century a dot on

the line of time. For all their apparent potency today, humans

are merely passing through both time and space, whether as

evolutionary stepping stones to a new species or headlong on

their way to self-destruction.

Whatever your religion, you cannot fail to be amazed by this

tree’s great presence. Whether it derives from nature, the

tree’s own spirit, God or the Virgin Mary seems wonderfully

irrelevant – and actually the best possible reason to jumble them

all together, whether at the tree or anywhere else on Earth.

feature

Baobabs are the oldest living things in Africa, ... standing as silent witnesses to history, to the passing of people and seasons, life and death

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Page 18: Inflight Magazine

30 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010 aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 31

When you spy an island on the horizon, a powerful force takes over. It’s as if the human psyche demands that we discover and explore

feature

The most popular legend associated with a deity from

the Ssese Islands dates from the mid-16th century, when

Buganda, led by Nakibinge, was being overwhelmed in a war

against the Kingdom of Bunyoro. Nakibinge visited the islands

in search of support, and was offered the assistance of the

local king’s youngest son, Kibuuka, who leaped to the mainland

in one mighty bound to join the war against the Bunyoro. Tall

and powerful though, Kibuuka, which means ’the flier’, was

also possessed of a somewhat more singular fighting skill. A

deity in human form, he was able to fly high above the clouds

and shower down spears on the enemy, who had no idea

from where the deadly missiles emanated. Led by Kibuuka’s

aerial attacks, rout followed rout, and the tide of war reversed

swiftly in Nakibinge’s favour as the Baganda army proceeded

deeper into Banyoro territory.

Although Buganda went on to win the war, Kibuuka did

not survive to enjoy the spoils of victory. After yet another

successful battle, the Baganda warriors captured Banyoro

maidens and gave one to Kibuuka as his mistress. Kibuuka

told the Banyoro girl his secret, only to find that she had

vanished overnight. The next day, Kibuuka soared up into the

sky as normal, and was greeted by a barrage of Bunyoro

spears and arrows projected up towards the clouds. Kibuuka

fell wounded into a tall tree, where he was spotted and died

the next day.

The Ssese Islands are inhabited by the Bantu speaking

Bassese tribe, closely related to the Baganda and Basoga

people, and speaking a similar, though distinct language. The

principal industry in the islands is of course, fishing for the

huge Nile perch, with most of the catch being exported, and

resulting in overfishing. Other industries include agriculture,

forestry and tourism.The islands are blessed with over

13 forests, uncountable beaches and over seven hours of

sunshine a day.

For much of the 1990’s, the islands were renowned as a

popular tourist destination for backpackers in search of wildlife

and adventure, but even these intrepid souls stopped coming

when the ferry linking the islands to Kampala stopped more

than 10 years ago, making a journey in a fisherman’s canoe

the quickest way to get there. Although these attractions have

not diminished in recent years, their popularity evidently had,

attributed perhaps to the suspension of the regular ferries

from Port Bell as well as the burgeoning tourist development

at the more accessible Lake Bunyonyi in Kigezi.

Thankfully there is now a new daily ferry, the MS Kalangala,

from Entebbe pier to Bugala, the largest of the 84 islands in

the archipelago, enabling a new wave of pioneering tourists to

discover their soft white sands, blue waters and lush tropical

forests teeming with wildlife.

Only two islands regularly receive tourists, the more

established of these is Bugala, which is privately owned and

the site of a popular budget resort. Other islands that can

be visited with varying degrees of ease are Bubeke, Bukasa,

Bufumira and Banda. Not least among the Ssese Islands

attractions are their rustic character and the sense of being

well away from the established tourist circuit.

Extending over 200 kilometres and measuring 43 kilometres

from east to west, Bugala is the best developed for tourism

and dotted with accommodation to suit most tastes and

budgets. Kalangala, the administrative centre for the islands,

Left: Ssese

Island beach.

Above: Sunrise

over Lake

Victoria

– whose

shoreline has

more than

3,000 islands,

including Ssese

Islands in

Uganda.

>>

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It is sunrise over Lake Victoria and on the ivory white

sand a solitary figure is greeting the new dawn. He lifts

his fishing nets out of the water and hangs them out

to dry. Then something moves. As if from nowhere a tiny

pink crab appears, scuttling sideways across the beach. It

skims the surface, barely making an impression in the wet

sand. And then they are gone and once more the beach is

totally deserted, proof that in a crowded world there are still

some places that remain unspoilt, but then this is the Ssese

Islands.

Lake Victoria is the largest lake in Africa and the chief

reservoir of the Nile. Among the freshwater lakes of the

world it is exceeded in size only by Lake Superior in North

America. Its waters fill a shallow depression in the plateau

that stretches between the western and eastern arms of the

Great Rift Valley. The lake has a shoreline of 3,440 kilometres

(2,138 miles) and has more than 3,000 islands, many of

which are inhabited. These include the beautiful Ssese Islands

in Uganda – a large group of islands in the northwest area of

the lake.

The Ssese Islands are an archipelago of 84 islands in

the nation’s Kalangala district. About 43 of the islands are

inhabited, and vary in size from less than 10,000 square

metres, to over 40 kilometres in length for the largest of

the island group, Bugala. The islands lie in two main groups,

separated by the Kkome Channel. The south-western group

is home to Bugala, site of the island’s main town, Kalangala,

home to the district headquarters, while other islands

include Bubeke, Bufumira, Bugaba, Bukasa, Buyova, Funve

and Serinya. The main islands in the north-eastern group are

Damba, Kkome and Luwaji.

The islands came into existence some 12 million years

ago when a tectonic shift caused an elevated basin situated

between the two main arms of the Great Rift Valley to flood,

forming Lake Victoria as we know it today.

Little is known about the earliest inhabitants of the Ssese

Islands, but some oral traditions associated with the creation

of the Kingdom of Buganda claim that its founder, Kintu hailed

from the ‘Islands of the Gods’. In pre-colonial times it was

customary for the kings of Buganda to visit the islands and

pay tribute to the several Balubaale whose main shrines to

Mukasa, spirit of the lake, were located on Bubembe Island.

Some Bugandan historical sources romanticise this

relationship, claiming that in pre-colonial times Ssese, due to

its exalted status was never attacked by Buganda, nor was it

formally incorporated into the mainland Kingdom. In reality,

while Ssese probably did enjoy a degree of autonomy, it was

clearly a vassal of Buganda for at least a century prior to the

colonial era. Furthermore, while the Baganda people revered

the island’s spirits, Henry Morton Stanley recorded that they,

“looked down on their human inhabitants for their ‘coal-black’

colour, timidity, superstition, and general uncleanly life”.

THE SSESE ISLANDS In the Footsteps of the Gods...by Peter Holthusen.

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32 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010 aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 33

Russian Orthodox Church with a multi-coloured Russian style

cupola built by Father Christopher Walusimbi, who is not only

the priest, but also a representative to the District Educational

Committee, a Board member on two other school committees;

and he is also considered somewhat of an elder in the

community.

Despite being over 60 years old, Fr. Christopher is very

active: he assumed a great burden to help children in the

Ssese Islands, who were orphaned as a result of the AIDS

epidemic. For the past 25 years he has also run an ambulance

service from the island to the mainland 64 kilometres (40

miles) to the north. He also runs one of the most comfortable

guesthouses on the island, 30 minutes walk from the jetty.

Also infrequently visited by travellers, Bufumira Island is

readily accessible by fishing boat from Bugala, and there is a

small guesthouse in its largest village Semawundu, though you

are advised to bring your food with you. Far more popular is

the smaller Banda Island, site of a backpacker resort that has

become something of a legend among travellers in the last few

years. Several other small, mostly uninhabited islands can be

reached by fishing boat as day trips from Bugala.

When you spy an island on the horizon, a powerful force

takes over. It’s as if the human psyche demands that we

discover and explore. If that island should be in the Ssese

archipelago, you’ll be well rewarded for charting a course to

her shores.

... considered to be one of the world’s most beautiful places, a popular tourist destination for those in search of dense forests, exotic birds and monkeys

Although many visitors to Bugala stick to the beach resort

at Lutoboka, the island also offers some great possibilities for

unstructured walking. Strike out in any direction from Kalangala

and you will be greeted with pleasing views over the forested and

grassy clearings of the lake shore and more distant islands.

A popular cycling excursion off the road towards Luku is to

Mutumbula swimming beach, reputedly free of Schistosomiasis

(bilharzia). Travellers tend to concentrate along the Kalangala-

Luku road, and justifiably so, since the road heading south from

Kalangala is far more cultivated. One potentially interesting

destination in this direction is the marshy south-western shores

which harbour small numbers of hippo as well as a healthy

population of the elusive sitatunga or ‘marshbuck’ antelope,

with larger horns than that of the mainland species, regarded

by some authorities to represent an endemic island race.

Without a private vehicle, you would probably need to do an

overnight walking or cycling trip to get to these swamps.

Bukasa Island is considered to be one of the world’s most

beautiful places and is a popular tourist destination for those

in search of dense forests, exotic birds and monkeys. Second

largest of the islands in the Ssese archipelago, it is remote

and relatively hard to get to. Life here is difficult. Poverty is

rampant; there is no healthcare and no electricity. Most people

survive by growing and selling produce.

Yet here, in the midst of Africa, on a tiny island which you

will not find on most maps of the world, stands a beautiful

Right:

The principal

industry in the

islands is of

course, fishing

for the huge

Nile perch, with

most of the

catch being

exported.

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is an unremarkable small town situated on a ridge at the

eastern end of the island, while the nearby Lutoboka Bay

hosts the island’s main cluster of beach resorts. Another

important landmark on Bugala is Luku, the small village on

the western extreme of the island where the ferry from

the mainland docks. A good dirt road connects Luku to

Kalangala, and several minor roads run to other villages

lying further south on the island.

The most common large mammal on Bugala is the

Vervet monkey, often seen in the vicinity of Lutoboka and

Kalangala. Bushbucks and black-and-white Colobus are

present but seldom observed. Over the 12 million years

that the island has been separate from the mainland, one

endemic creek rat and three endemic butterfly species

have evolved. Water and forest birds are prolific. Expect

to see a variety of hornbills, barbets, turacos, robin-chats,

flycatchers and weaver birds from the roads around

Kalangala. Particularly common are the jewel-like pygmy

kingfisher, the beautiful malachite kingfisher, the brown-

throated wattle-eye and a stunning morph of the paradise

flycatcher intermediate to the orange and white phases

illustrated in most East African field guides. African fish

eagles and palm-nut vultures are often seen near the lake,

while immense breeding colonies of little egret and great

cormorant occur on Lutoboka and other bays.

feature

Right:

The Ssese

Islands are an

archipelago

of 84 islands

in Uganda’s

Kalangala

district. About

43 of the

islands are

inhabited, and

vary in size.

Below:

Sport fishing

is a popular

tourist

attraction.

>>

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34 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010 aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 35

Whether complementing a romantic dinner for two, adorning

a church’s altar, or simply providing light to those who have no

electricity, the humble candle has remained a constant figure in

our lives for centuries. Sue Royal looks at its many uses over the

years.

The soft glow of candlelight is the embodiment of romance

for lovers. To others the candle is a potent religious symbol

representing Christ as the light of life. In some societies it

still remains the single and most important source of illumination.

Strange to think that this simple object has held such an

important place in the development of civilisation over the

centuries. Yet without it, we might still be consigned to the

dictates of sunlight.

During the long winter nights, man yearned to imitate the sun

and prolong daylight. He managed it with the materials at hand,

but the search for the perfect illumination was extensive and

fraught with difficulties.

Most of society at one time was rural and peasant based.

A family or extended family group kept themselves and a few

animals for nourish (and later their pelts), and either moved

around or lived with other similar groups. One thing that was

freely available was animal fat, and it wasn’t long before someone

discovered its combustible properties.

Early candles were makeshift and inefficient. Rush lights were

reeds dipped in tallow (made from beef or mutton fat) which when

lighted, produced smoke, a rather pungent smell and a flickering

light. The same was true of tallow candles – although they had

the refinement of a wick passing through them.

Centuries ago, long before clocks came on the scene, candles

actually served the dual purpose of providing light – and telling

time. Divisions were made at equal distances down the sides

of the candle, and – after figuring out how many ‘divisions’

there were in the hours of daylight and darkness – people had

themselves a primitive timepiece.

art & craft

>>

striousminations

For more information contact: Books ’R’ Us LTD, | P.O. Box 45048, 00100 G.P.O. Nairobi, Kenya Tel: +254 (20) 4448923 / 4 / 5 | Fax: +254 (20) 444 8818 or 4441021 Email: [email protected] www.camerapixpublishers.com

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Made up of four different ethnic groups, the

people of Kenya are as old and as modern as

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This part of Africa has been a melting pot of

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Hardy and vigorous, Kenya’s communities all

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The Beautiful People of KenyaSize: 95 mm length 109 mm widthPages: 136 printed 4/4 with full colour illustrations Cost: USD 14.00

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Made up of four different ethnic groups, the people of Kenya are as old and as modern as mankind.

This part of Africa has been a melting pot of human society since our early ancestor Homo Erectus fi rst walked upright on the shores

of Lake Turkana, the Cradle of Mankind.

Kenya’s more than forty different indigenous groups are as diverse and contrasting as the country’s landscapes and equally magnifi cent.

These communities are founded on social systems built on a democracy of seniority and sharing of communal wealth, of laws of justice with

compensation – not retribution – as punishment.

Hardy and vigorous, Kenya’s communities all come to glorious life in Beautiful People of Kenya, a full-colour tribute

to a wealth of cultures and customs.

Text by Brian Tetley, photographs by Mohamed Amin and Duncan Willetts.

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Page 21: Inflight Magazine

36 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010 aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 37

one at a time. Wicks suspended on a frame were dipped in hot

wax or tallow, emersed and then lifted out to cool. They were

dipped again and again, adding more and more layers, until the

candle was judged to be thick enough. Rolled candles were made

by pouring melted wax onto the wick in a thin layer, then allowing

it to partially set. The wax was then rolled around the

wick by hand while it was still warm and soft.

Lastly, a few little-known candle

facts:

Bleach candles by •

exposing to dew, air or

sunshine for a few

hours – it stops them

(particularly tallow

candles) from

turning yellow.

To stop •

them dripping or

spluttering, put

candles on ice for

two or three hours

before you use

them.

To help the •

candle burn better,

turn it upside down and

rub a pinch of salt into the

wick between your thumb and

forefinger (before you light up!)

There is even a ‘best way’ to blow a

candle out – hold it higher than your mouth

and blow upwards, rather than downwards –

it stops the wick smouldering.

Accidents produce some very odd discoveries. The people

of Orkney, off the coast of Scotland, discovered that seabirds,

with their habit of eating oily fish, had reservoirs of combustible

materials in their stomachs that were good to burn. The islanders

threaded a wick through the hapless bird’s body, stood it on a

lump of clay and presto – they had a lamp that kept going for

hours.

Odour also did not seem to bother the Indians from Vancouver

Island, Canada, who once burned oily fish on sticks; nor the

Shetland islanders ( neighbours of the bird burners of Orkney),

who utilised the stormy petrel to bring a little light into their lives.

Polynesians burned oily nuts, stuck on a piece of bamboo, as

candles, and Mexicans lit the oily bark of the aptly-named candle

tree for illumination.

All over the world, seaside communities used scallop and

oyster shells, filled with tallow or wax, to light their homes.

Remains of hollowed out stone lamps, which worked on a similar

principal, have been found in caves in France.

When a portable candle was required,

people in Mexico, south-east Asia, Africa

and the Caribbean bundled together some

inflammable material, such as tea resin,

wrapped it in palm leaves and lit it to use

as a torch.

Once people realised fats and oils

burned, they made use of local resources.

In the Mediterranean, olives grew in

abundance, so olive oil was used for light

and fuel. In the south of America, cotton

seed was used for the same purpose.

The aim was for a constant flame which

burned without spluttering or guttering

and gave a fairly even light – which crude

candles made of pig fat just couldn’t

provide.

Someone eventually came up with the

solution: beeswax. The whole business

suddenly advanced to a higher plane. Wax

candles didn’t need to have the charred

ends of their wicks trimmed regularly, or

‘snuffed’. They didn’t gutter or spit hot

matter.

So the wax candle reigned supreme, for

those who could afford it, until the invention

of the Argand burner in 1782, which

provided a more constant flame even than

a wax candle. But candles certainly didn’t

become obsolete. Refinements for dealing

with falling wax fire risk and other candle-

related problems, got more sophisticated.

Candle lanterns made transportation a

lot less risky and painful. Early types were

metal cylinders punched with small holes,

art & craft art & craft

but even earlier versions (dating back 2,000 years) made of

animal horn have been unearthed. Devices which adjusted the

height of the flame came on the market, and sliding holders and

ratchet devices endeavoured to give an even light as the candle

burned down. Portable brass candlesticks, which could be folded

away and had caps, were also popular.

The candle shield – a monumentally complicated piece of

machinery – stopped the problem of eyes being strained by

the contrast between the dull light thrown on to the pages of

a book, and the glare from the brighter parts of the flame. A

round shield attached to an adjustable arm was fixed to fall in

between the candle and the person using the light to read. As

the flame burned down, the shield was moved down, too.

Candlelight was even used in industry, for the lacemaker’s

condenser. Lacemaking schools in Europe placed one tallow

candle in the centre of four bulb-shaped flasks filled with water.

These were placed on sticks at about the same height as the

flame. The ‘lens’ provided by the water-filled flasks reflected a

concentrated light on the lace on which children – some as young

as five – worked. Not surprisingly, young people working in these

type of conditions suffered problems with their eyesight by the

time they reached their teens.

Candle-making has not changed much down the centuries. One

of the first steps forward in candle-making came in 1855, when

Americans Stainthorp and Wurmstone invented the water-cooled

candle mold and movable tip-piece. Some people still make them

at home – and the method is much the same as the method

used hundreds of years ago. The one abiding principal is the need

to keep the wick central. Only minimum equipment is needed –

moulds, which can be anything from long thin traditional candle-

shaped ones to old jam jars – and iron pans with a lip to guide the

hot wax.

The ‘recipe’ for those first tallow candles? Beef

fat, mutton fat, or pork scraps. Fry over a

low heat, collect the resulting grease

and squeeze through a course cloth.

Then boil the melted fat in plenty

of salty water for 10 minutes

to clean. Stir and leave to

cool. Once it is completely

cold, the fat will form

a hard cake on the

top of the water. The

underside should be

scraped clean before

it can be weighed and

melted down to make

the candles required.

For the melting

container, a double boiler

is best. Sit the container

for the wax inside a larger

pan of water, and heat to

boiling so the tallow becomes

runny again. Once this is done,

strain the tallow through some

cheesecloth and pour into moulds with

wicks already placed in them, and then dust with

talcum powder. Candles are made upside down, so some

excess wick must be left at the bottom.

Just any old string or thread is not good enough to become a

wick – it needs to be specially treated. Cotton string or braided

cord should be soaked in turpentine, or a mixture of borax,

chloride of lime, chloride of ammonia and saltpetre dissolved in

water. After 15 to 20 minutes soaking, the wick should be dried

off in the sun before it is ready to be used.

That is the most basic traditional candle-making method, but

there are others. Of course, beeswax or paraffin wax can be

used instead of tallow, or a mixture of any of the three.

The dipping method of making candles was used when a batch

needed to be made quickly – it took less effort than making just

From grapes to snakes, weird to wonderful, candles come in all shapes and sizes and often in extraordinary realistic models

>>

Pho

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supp

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by C

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s/She

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Ass

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Cam

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Page 22: Inflight Magazine

38 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010 aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 39

in monetary terms. You are suggesting very strongly that I do

not do this project, so would you be able to wire the funds that I

require into my account every year?”

To this, every friend would stutter and then always say, “No.”

(I can’t seem to find one that will take the bait.)

I would turn around and say, “So if you can’t give me what I

want, would you be kind enough not to give me your opinions

either? I am an all-or-nothing guy; how about you give me all or

nothing.” I never hear their opinion from that point on. It’s a bit

harsh, but it has helped me stay focussed.

I want you to imagine shopping for groceries at your local

supermarket. You want some fruits, vegetables, milk, orange

juice, and some pasta for dinner. You enter armed with your list,

knowing exactly what you need to buy. But is what you want all

that there is on offer in the supermarket? Oh no.

Supermarkets are great at strategically displaying thousands

of products, all to tempt you to pick them up off the shelves. Let

me ask you, how many times have you fallen for this marketing

ploy? How many times have you ended up buying things that

were not on your shopping list, things that you had no intention

of buying? Those products did not just jump off the shelf and into

your basket (although at times it feels like it). Those who are on

a strict budget and those who are serious about going in and

getting out are usually the best at avoiding this trap. They simply

go in, buy what they come for, and leave – mission accomplished.

Your life is like going through a supermarket. It’s filled with

people’s opinions. It’s completely up to you what ends up in your

basket, which will determine what you take through the checkout

with you. Successful people have mastered the art of being able

to keep opinions shelved with the owner. They only listen to the

right people in the right field. Just because someone has an

opinion doesn’t mean you have to buy it. Successful people are

good at becoming unaffected by opinions, good or bad. They go

with what they have set out to do. They go with their shopping

list.

Fear and personal limitations rule most people’s realities.

People give you their opinions based on their own fears. They will

talk you out of an idea or a venture you might be planning. They

are unable to see what you see. They will not have your skill set,

talent and knowledge.

Unfortunately, these people are often those who are closest to

you. They don’t really want to harm you, but in most instances,

they have absolutely no clue about what they are talking about.

If they did, they would be doing something more active with their

lives rather than giving their opinion.

Again, we don’t let others choose the clothes we wear. We

don’t let others choose our spouse, the sport we play, or our

friends. Therefore, never let someone else choose how you

should live or what you should do with your life. You are not

disrespecting anyone; you’re just choosing not to take in the

opinions others are offering – it’s that simple.

feature

Here’s the bottom line. You are in control. You choose whether to accept those opinions or not. You

choose whether you let what Tom says affect you, and you choose

whether Dick’s criticisms makes you feel down and out. You

choose whether what Harriet thinks of you affects how you do

your business.

Always consider this – if those people giving you their opinions

don’t have what you want or aren’t where you want to be, then

why should you accept their opinions? Just think about it. Why

take their opinion if that’s all they are giving away? Someone

might think that it’s a good idea for you to jump off a cliff, but

would you do it? Someone else might think that it’s a good idea

for your child to hang around street gangs, but would you agree

to it? One person might think that your spouse isn’t the right

person for you, but would you swap? Another might not like

the shirt you’re wearing, but would you let others choose your

clothes for you? Isn’t it interesting that most poor people like to

give their advice on how to make money and become rich? Isn’t it

interesting that most people will tell you how to have a successful

relationship when they’re going through their 11th spouse?

Isn’t it interesting how many will commentate on an athlete’s

performance as they are watching the game on television from

their couch?

I’ve always asked myself – and, at times, challenged some

friends who wanted to give me their opinions to answer this

question: I would say something like this, “I like to have a lavish

time, free life so I will need a fair amount of money to keep me

happy. Being the spontaneous person that I am, I could be in New

York one day and feel like sitting on the beautiful sands in the Gold

Coast of Australia the next. I could be walking on the Great Wall

of China midweek and then want to head to Pisa to admire the

leaning tower for the weekend. I want to be able to give my family

whatever they need, without a blink. That would cost a lot purely

by Kevin Abdulrahman.

BUYINGOR LEAVING it?

feature

It’s said that the cheapest commodity in this world is

people’s opinion because everyone has a truckload to

give away. The sad part that fuels this phenomenon

is that it’s free, and, unfortunately, most of it is worth

its weight in rubbish. Every Tom, Dick, and Harriet has

something to say. You can’t stop people from giving

opinions, but you sure can choose how to deal with them.

Page 23: Inflight Magazine

40 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010 aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 41

that seem too good to be true – and are. Order them, give your

credit card details, and the card is debited without the goods

being delivered. By the time the law tries to catch up, these

outfits have disappeared into thin air – taking your money with

them.

There are many variations of credit card scams. However,

there are even worse problems awaiting the unwary. It is possible

to inadvertently send confidential information to the wrong people,

which can mean you are breaking the law and may be liable to

serious legal action.

Computer hacking has become the new-age, high-tech sport

and subtleties in the methods of invading your computer are

becoming increasingly sophisticated. Spoofing, cramming,

steganography and caching are now part of the language of the

younger, computer-savvy generations (there are so many new

expressions; we’ve included a list of the basic ones at the end of

this article).

There are now special hacker programmes available that

enable computer criminals to access accounts to a frightening

degree. Not only is this very profitable; in many countries, there

are simply no laws that adequately cover this type of new-

millennium crime. And even if the computer criminals are caught,

resulting sentences are often minimal.

Computer hackers are very often as young as they are clever.

A while back, a 17-year-old Scandinavian boy discovered a way

of breaking the code protecting the new DVD movie disks from

being copied. He didn’t try to profit from this, but simply published

his system on the web. Needless to say, the movie studios were

horrified, and the whole exercise cost them millions.

Other hackers decided to show their skill by breaking into

American University computers and using the massive volumes of

data to bombard major transmission providers and e-commerce

operators into overload and breakdown.

For those who use it properly, the internet can be a wonderful

tool. In one afternoon it is possible to stroll through the British

Museum, buy and sell shares, research treatments for your aches

and pains, talk on a chat site with someone living at the opposite

end of the earth, view a house you’re thinking of buying, and order

an increasing number of commodities for home delivery.

In this remarkable new electronic world you can also download

images, send e-mails, contribute to a newsgroup, and never have

to battle the traffic. You can listen to the latest music, access the

news as it happens and even watch movies. That is the bright

side of the internet. But the flip side has a negative for each of

these positives.

Accessing your money is not the only trap to the web. One dark

side of the internet is another major minefield faced by those

trying to protect children and retain a sense of decency in the

community. In the search for knowledge for a school project, a

child could be subject to images from gore sites, hatred sites,

pornographic sites, or gambling sites at the click of a button.

Often the pointers to such sites are deliberately designed to

appear quite harmless, initially leading the internet surfers to

believe the site to be connected with their field of research.

Pornography is probably the most profitable money-maker on

the web today. But there is even worse. Every style of perversion

is available, with full colour images, somewhere on the internet.

Photographs of executions and murder victims and autopsy

photographs constitute just some of the ‘gore’ sites. Then there

are dangerous sites, including some which offer do-it-yourself

instructions for bomb-making, and others preaching hate and

intolerance.

Parents are not the only group that is concerned about dark

websites. Schools, corporations, religious groups and those

concerned with community standards are at a loss to know how

to cope with the easy access of this dubious material.

Recently, companies have found their office computers so

compromised that many organisations have now established

some type of restrictive rules that set out acceptable computer-

use policy for employees. This was brought ahead by court cases

ruling in favour of female employees who felt intimidated by being

targeted by such material, and feeling that this created

a hostile work environment.

Companies are at multiple

risk from without and within.

While hackers try and access

their systems from the outside,

staff insiders are frequently

destructive as well, both with

criminal intent or because they

feel that in order to get even

for some perceived wrongdoing

by their company they can create

computer mischief, and no one will

be able to find out.

technology

>>

Warez is the term used to describe illegal copies of software

Computer crime goes beyond having your credit card illegally accessed

The Dark Side of the Web

You are on a business trip to a faraway country but

didn’t bother bringing travelers cheques. After all,

you are secure in the knowledge that your credit card

has a sizeable unused credit limit. And travelers cheques are

yesterday’s technology. Who would bother with them when you

can use a credit card in virtually every automated teller machine

(ATM) around the world.

Arriving at the faraway international airport, you head for the

nearest ATM to get enough of the local currency to cover your

hotel, entertainment, taxis and other expenses that you know are

going to mount up over the next week.

Inserting your credit card and personal identification number

(PIN) number, you request the ATM for 1,000 faraway Dollars.

But instead of receiving the money, a slip tells you that your credit

card limit is overdrawn. What you don’t find out until after you

have contacted the credit card company, is that hackers broke

into the records of a company from which you recently made

a purchase, and then published the details of your bank, credit

card number and enough information for professional website

thieves to access your account and clean it out. It’s a story that is

repeated day after day.

Computer crime goes beyond having your credit card illegally

accessed. A large number of fly-by-night companies offer wares

The internet has been hailed as a new fountain of knowledge, bringing

a wealth of information to the fingertips of anyone with a computer.

That’s the bright side. As Walter Glaser discovered, the Net can cheat

and swindle you and corrupt and disturb your children.

technology

Page 24: Inflight Magazine

42 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010 aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 43

The hAcker’s JArGoN:

<Anarchy sites> encourages lawlessness by

detailing illegal procedures such as how to

make a bomb, rob a bank, or even kill someone.

<cramming> which means that your credit card

website transaction is billed to you at a

slightly higher amount, and repeated in the

following months. The amounts are small, so

as not to attract attention, but they are

frequent.

<cracking> turns evaluation versions of

software into real versions.

<hacking> is the unauthorised access to a

computer system.

<MP3> is an easily copied music file format,

mostly used for copyright piracy and is

creating big problems for the music industry.

<spoofing> is the copying of an entire

website which is posted on a free web-space.

Unsuspecting net-surfers are coerced through

search engines or incorrect links to visit the

site. They may then enter credit card details

for goods that never arrive.

<Phreaking> is phone fraud used along with

telecommunication technologies that help

hackers create mischief in the computing world.

<steganography> means that hidden messages are

contained within other messages, enabling two

or more people to have secret communications

contained with news groups or websites.

<Warez> is the name used to describe illegal

copies of software.

For more information on computer protection

check out:

<www.buchananinternational.com>

And sometimes something done as a light-hearted joke can go terribly wrong.

A British bank recently set out a programme targeting its super-wealthy clientele

in the bank’s private-banking section. The programmer, intending to have the

computer add the name of each client to individualise the approach, headed the

draft letter up with the opener ‘‘Dear Filthy-Rich Bastard.’’ You’ve guessed it! A

glitch caused all the letters to go out with that heading. The programmer no

longer works at the bank. But the bank no longer has most of its former clients

in this category either!

So what is the answer?

A software system to keep criminals activity out of the information technology

system is being developed by a Scottish company. It has been designed by

Bushanna International Limited by their specialist spin-off company system

Lookout Limited.

Lookout is designed to identify inappropriate material and can tell if the

information has been copied from a Flash Disk, CD or other medium. The

programme is of great interest to schools, companies, universities and parents

with home computers, all anxious to stamp out the abuse of computer networks.

System Lookout can be customised for each client to filter out specific

material. Some of the ‘inappropriate material’ could well be innocuous but

damaging – such as out-of-date price lists, outdated information and, on the

incoming side, unwanted advertising via email.

Computer owners, especially company networks, can benefit from such

protective systems in many ways. They can lower costs by having a reduced flow

of data to check each day. Litigation can be avoided and efficiency improved as

employees cannot access banned or time-wasting material. And it can also make

hacking or leaking more difficult. No-one wants to deal with an organisation that

may develop a reputation as a ‘leaking sieve’ for confidential data.

Sadly, computer security is a little like viruses. As soon as you find an answer

to one, newer versions pop up elsewhere. But fortunately a new breed of

protection experts is making the work of those that try to subvert the system

for fun or profit, harder and harder. All that the individual or corporate user

can do is to take the greatest care possible. The new age has arrived, and the

clock cannot be turned back. We must all be aware that with all its marvels and

benefits, there is also a very dark side to the web.

technology

>>

health

high mortality rates, especially among young children. So far, the

only defences against it have been down the path of prevention

by means of prophylactic drugs, insect-repellent lotions, clothing

and bed nets impregnated with insecticide, and the controversial

measures of area spraying and bush clearance. Treatment for

the disease once contracted has also improved greatly, but it

has stubbornly remained as one of the few major diseases to be

still on the rise.

An additional note of urgency has also been added to the

situation. A decade ago, the World Health Organisation (WHO)

began warning of the possible spread of malaria because

of global warming. Again, Africa was in the front line. Since

malarial mosquitoes don’t normally breed above 1,500-2,000

metres, large tracts of mountainous sub-Saharan Africa were

considered non-malarial. But as temperatures rise, the WHO’s

prediction that more land would come under threat has proved

true. Cases are now being reported from towns and villages in

East Africa, especially in Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda and Rwanda,

once thought safe.

Some of this increase could be influenced by other factors

such as large population movements caused by political

upheavals, or migrant workers returning from malarial zones,

but the trend is there, and it looks set to continue until an

effective vaccine is available. Great emphasis is being placed

by the Gates Foundation and GSK on ensuring that distribution

and implementation procedures are in place for the day when

a vaccine, hopefully RTSS, will be ready, and available free.

Meanwhile, combating malaria by all the known methods has to

continue and be extended as far as possible.

MalariaFresh Hope for an Effective Vaccine

In spite of all the amazing advances in medical science,

malaria is one of those diseases that has so far refused to

go away. Other major-league killers such as smallpox and

yellow fever have been virtually eliminated, but the magic bullet

of a really effective vaccine against malaria has, time and again,

eluded researchers. But now hope could be at hand.

In November 2009, the Path Malaria Vaccine Initiative (Path

MVI) funded by the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation and the

multinational pharmaceutical company, GlaxoSmithKline, were

confident enough to announce that a new vaccine, known as

RTSS, is in the final stages of development. Extensive trials are

being run in seven countries of sub-Saharan Africa including

Kenya, involving 16,000 under-fives, with the full co-operation of

the governmental health authorities concerned.

GSK is stressing that these trials are essential if the vaccine

is to be given the go-ahead. If it is found that children given

the RTSS vaccine develop a sufficient degree of immunity to

the worst effects of malaria, then it could be available in three

to five years. This is particularly good news for tropical and

sub-tropical Africa, where the disease is seen as a major factor

holding back economic development.

Unfortunately, there are many areas of the continent where

conditions are all too favourable for the malarial mosquito to

thrive, and the effects of the disease itself are a big factor in

This is particularly good news for tropical and sub-tropical Africa, where the disease is seen as a major factor holding back economic development.

Below:

A female

Anopheles

species

mosquito

– the only

inverterbrate

vector of

malaria

parasites.

Page 25: Inflight Magazine

44 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010 aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 45

AIR UGANDA FLIGHT SCHEDULE

For centuries, coveted by Chinese and Indian cooks, ginger,

in the last few decades, has become revered in many of

the European and North American kitchens. Forming the

bases for innumerable dishes, this seasoning is, today, employed

on a large scale in almost every country throughout the globe. A

good number of cooks say that the secret of the world-renowned

Chinese cuisine is this condiment which some have labelled

‘spice of the ages’.

Yet, many know that this spice is full of medicinal properties.

Some herbalists have labelled it the ‘ultimate in healthy eating’.

In the land of its origin, southeastern Asia, ginger was not

only used in foods but also as a medicine, revered for its

therapeutic properties. It was part of external home remedies

such that it was compressed and utilised as an ingredient in

medical preparations. For thousands of years, known to the

Chinese as the ‘Gift of God’, it was mentioned in China’s first

Pharmacopoeia, Pen Tsao Ching, written in the mist of time, and

in Ayurvedic, an ancient medical science in India, it forms the

basis of many medicines.

According to R. Landry in The Gentle Art of Flavoring, ginger

was included in the pharmacopoeia of the Arabs. King Henry VIII

of England believed that it could cure the plague and the Indians

have long made a paste, which they believe keeps away scurvy.

For generations, herb doctors have believed that it fortifies the

chest and have prescribed ginger tea for arthritis, colds and flu,

leprosy, tetanus and digestive problems.

In Asia, ginger is believed to warm the internal organs and,

hence, act as an aphrodisiac. For thousands of years, it has

been used externally and internally to increase sexual powers.

In some countries, women rub ginger on their bodies or eat

gingerbread to attract the opposite sex. In other cultures,

a concoction of the spice is prepared to increase virility and

combat impotence.

Chinese herbal medicine has for centuries employed ginger

to boost the immune system, purge the body viruses, and as

a stimulating tonic for digestive disorders. Brewed as a tea,

it was employed to relieve headaches, chest congestion, and

indigestion and to induce sweating, helping fevers run their

course. Fresh ginger grated into hot lemon and honey was for

centuries employed to fight off colds and discharge mucus, and

a ginger bath is still used to combat stuffed noses due to

allergies, sinus trouble, or colds.

Containing calcium, carotene, cellulose, iron, lime,

pentosans, protein, starch, vitamins B and C, and a small

quantity of volatile oil – a fixed oil with high-flavored resinous

matter – ginger has digestive properties and is useful as a

salt substitute.

Modern research has discovered that it eases

depression, and its anti-viral qualities help relieve colds and

flu, chest congestion, headaches, morning sickness; and is a

good stimulant and carminative – it stimulates blood circulation

and is much used for dyspepsia and colic. Ginger boosts poor

circulation and its pungency and sapid flavour awakens the

appetite and disguises the taste of nauseous medicines.

Scientists have determined that ginger’s antibiotic qualities

killed the salmonella bug in test-tube trials. In addition, tests

have shown that ginger has anti-inflammatory properties and,

hence, it is used to relieve the painful swelling of arthritis and

rheumatism and to ease muscle cramps.

Laboratory research has established that ginger is as

effective as standard drugs in treating travel illness, such as

sea sickness and car sickness, and nausea in pregnancy. To

be effective, travellers should take one gramme dried ginger

powder or about five grammes fresh or crystallised ginger half

to one hour before departure, then continue to ingest ginger

regularly during the journey.

In modern China it remains one of the most widely employed

drugs. Both fresh and dried roots as well as a liquid extract

and tincture of ginger are official drugs in the modern Chinese

pharmacopoeia. In that country, half of all herbal prescriptions

include ginger. However, not only in China, but throughout the

world modern research continues to validate its medicinal

claims. Recent research has found that ginger has natural meat

tenderising enzymes that can make tough meat palatable and,

as an icing on its beneficial and healing qualities, it tastes good.

by Habeeb Salloum.

The Medicinal Qualities of Ginger

health

ENTEBBE – NAIROBIFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 202 6:30 Hrs 07:40 Hrs Monday – Friday

U7 202 8:30 Hrs 9:40 Hrs Saturday

U7 206 12:20 Hrs 13:25 Hrs Sunday

U7 204 18:30 Hrs 19:40 Hrs Monday – Saturday

U7 204 18:45 Hrs 19:55 Hrs Sunday

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U7 203 08:15 Hrs 09:25 Hrs Monday – Friday

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U7 205 20:30 Hrs 21:40 Hrs Sunday

ENTEBBE – JUBAFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 120 10:25 Hrs 11:25 Hrs Monday – Thursday

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U7 120 12:15 Hrs 13:15 Hrs Saturday

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U7 119 12:05 Hrs 13:05 Hrs Monday – Thursday

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U7 340 14:30 Hrs 16:55 Hrs Tuesday & Thursday

U7 340 09:00 Hrs 11:25 Hrs Sunday

ZANZIBAR – ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 341 17:25 Hrs 20:00 Hrs Tuesday & Thursday

U7 341 11:55 Hrs 14:30 Hrs Sunday

ENTEBBE – DAR ES SALAAMFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 320 08:00 Hrs 09:45 Hrs Monday & Tuesday

U7 320 14:30 Hrs 16:15 Hrs Wednesday & Thursday

U7 320 11:40 Hrs 13:25 Hrs Friday

U7 320 15:15 Hrs 17:00 Hrs Sunday

DAR ES SALAAM – ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 321 10:15 Hrs 12:00 Hrs Monday & Tuesday

U7 321 16:50 Hrs 18:35 Hrs Wednesday & Thursday

U7 321 14:00 Hrs 15:45 Hrs Friday

U7 321 17:35 Hrs 19:20 Hrs Sunday

ENTEBBE – MOMBASAFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 340 14:30 Hrs 16:00 Hrs Tuesday & Thursday

U7 340 09:00 Hrs 10:30 Hrs Sunday

MOMBASA – ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 341 18:30 Hrs 20:20 Hrs Tuesday & Thursday

U7 341 13:00 Hrs 14:30 Hrs Sunday

ENTEBBE – KIGALIFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 350 12:30 Hrs 12:15 Hrs Monday & Tuesday

U7 350 12:00 Hrs 11:45 Hrs Wednesday & Thursday

U7 352 16:15 Hrs 16:00 Hrs Friday

KIGALI – ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 351 12:45 Hrs 14:30 Hrs Monday & Tuesday

U7 351 12:15 Hrs 14:00 Hrs Wednesday & Thursday

U7 353 16:30 Hrs 18:15 Hrs Friday

For any information contact your preferred Travel Agent or our Sales & Reservation Office on +256 (0) 412 165 555 in KAMPALA.

Page 26: Inflight Magazine

46 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010 aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 47

ASANTE NEWSASANTE NEWS

Air Uganda and RwandAir Codeshare Air Uganda and RwandAir have introduced a codeshare agreement

on their flights between Entebbe and Kigali. This will enable both

airlines and travel agents to sell tickets on each other’s flights to

offer customers the same combinable fares on the same tickets,

making it cheaper and simpler for their customers to use both

airlines’ flights.

This partnership allows passengers to enjoy a day return from

both Uganda and Rwanda. With their synchronised schedules, Air

Uganda and RwandAir offer passengers morning and evening flights

daily between Entebbe and Kigali. Air Uganda operates afternoon

flights between Entebbe and Kigali (see flight schedule on page 45)

and RwandAir operate a flight out of Kigali in the evening at 1900

hours (local time Kigali), and depart from Entebbe at 2120 hours

(local time Entebbe) for Kigali.

The codeshare also enables travel agents to sell combinable fares

on both airlines using the same ticket. Tickets for these flights can

be obtained at travel agents, Air Uganda or RwandAir’s offices in

Rwanda, Uganda and throughout East Africa.

With similar 50-seater Bombardier (CRJ) aircraft operated by

both RwandAir and Air Uganda, passengers are able to enjoy the

same level of comfort and speed on whichever airline they travel

between Kigali and Entebbe.

Air Uganda’s Chief Executive Officer, Hugh Fraser, stated “With

this new codeshare agreement, both airlines can provide additional

benefits and services to our mutual customers travelling between

Entebbe and Kigali”.

Above: Uganda Cranes (Uganda’s National football team) arrives from Nairobi

after they beat Harambee Stars (Kenya’s National football team), to qualify

for the Africa Nations Champions to be held in Sudan in January 2011. Air

Uganda is the official carrier of the Uganda Cranes.

Above: At the recently held Air Uganda Travel forum,

Ms. Angella Llingat (left) of Asyanut Safaris and Travel

won a two nights accommodation package to Mombasa,

courtesy of Air Uganda and Leopard Beach Resort and

Spa, Mombasa. Also present on the occasion were Mr.

Hugh Fraser, Chief Executive Officer of Air Uganda and

Ms. Sally (right) of Leopard Beach Hotel.

Above: Mr. Hugh Fraser, Chief Executive Officer of Air Uganda (right)

with Mr. Mahmood Manji (centre), Chairman of Air Uganda and

Mr. Rene Janata, Chief Executive Officer of RwandAir.

Page 27: Inflight Magazine

48 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010 aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 49

For your own comfort try • and travel light.

Wear loose clothing and • elasticated stockings made of natural fibre.

Increase your normal • intake of water and only if need be, drink alcohol but in moderation.

Use moisturising cream to • keep your skin from drying out.

Take off shoes in the • plane to prevent your feet from swelling up or wear shoes that will cope with expanding ankles.

Avoid heavy meals during • the flight.

Short walks once every • two hours are excellent for circulation.

Try to touch your toes • when waiting in the aisle to stretch your hamstrings.

On arrival at your • destination, have a hot shower or a relaxing bath.

On arrival a quick jog, • brisk walk, or a vigorous scrub will help stimulate your circulation.

Knee to chest: Bend forward slightly. Clasp hands around the left knee and hug it to your chest. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Keeping hands around knee, slowly let it down. Alternate legs. Repeat 10 times.

Shoulder roll: Hunch shoulders forward, then upward, then backward, then downward, using a gentle, circular motion.

Shoulder stretch: Reach right hand over left shoulder. Place left hand behind right elbow and gently press elbow toward shoulder. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.

Arm curl: Start with arms held at a 90-degree angle: elbows down, hands out in front. Raise hands up to chest and back down, alternating hands. Do this exercise in 30-second intervals.

Forward flex: With both feet on the floor and stomach held in, slowly bend forward and walk your hands down the front of your legs towards your ankles. Hold the stretch for 15 seconds and slowly sit back up.

Overhead stretch: Raise both hands straight up over your head. With one hand, grasp the wrist of the opposite hand and gently pull to one side. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.

Ankle circles: Lift feet off the floor, draw a circle with the toes, simultaneously moving one foot clockwise and the other foot counterclockwise. Reverse circles. Do each direction for 15 seconds. Repeat if desired.

Neck roll: With shoulders relaxed, drop ear to shoulder and gently roll neck forward and to the other side, holding each position about five seconds. Repeat five times.

Other Tips for a Comfortable Flight

These gentle exercises, which you can carry out easily during your flight, will help blood circulation and reduce any tiredness or stiffness that may result from sitting in one place for several hours. Check with your doctor first if you have any health conditions which might be adversely affected by exercise.

Foot pumps:

Start with both heels on the

floor and point feet upward

as high as you can. Then

put both feet flat on the

floor. Then lift heels high,

keeping the balls of your feet

on the floor. Continue cycle

in 30-second intervals.

Knee lifts:

Lift leg with knees bent while

contracting your thigh muscles.

Alternate legs. Repeat 20 to 30

times for each leg.

ROUTE MAPHEALTHY TRAVELLING

Juba

Mombasa

Zanzibar

Dar es salaam

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M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

EAmap.pdf 7/13/10 3:34:32 PM

Entebbe

Page 28: Inflight Magazine

50 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010 aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 51

LandUganda is a compact country, with an area of 236,580 square kilometres – roughly the size of Great Britain.

ClimateAlthough situated on the equator, Uganda’s relatively high altitude tempers the heat, and humidity is generally low. Throughout the year sunshine averages about 6 to 10 hours a day. There are two rainy seasons: the main long rains, which start late in February and end in April, and the short rains, which start in October and run until about the middle of December. The region around Lake Victoria, however, receives rain at almost any time of the year.

TopographyIt is located on the equator, within the eastern plateau region of the African continent and between the eastern and western ridges of the Great Rift Valley. Near the borders several mountain masses stand out strikingly from the plateaux.

EconomyUganda is blessed with fertile soils that support a wide variety of food and export crops, both annual and perennial. Agriculture is the dominant sector of Uganda’s economy. The major traditional export crops are coffee, cotton, tea, horticulture, tobacco and sugar cane, while groundnuts, maize, beans, sorghum and millet have emerged in recent years as cash crops for the peasant farmers.

LanguageEnglish is the official language and is also the medium of instruction in Uganda’s education system, from primary school up to university level. Swahili is also spoken. There are some 30 indigenous languages spoken in the rural areas. The most common of these are Luganda and Luo.

Electric supplyAll installations are of British standard and appliances should be fitted with the square, three-pin plugs of British specifications. The voltage is 240 volts, 50 Hz for domestic use. The voltage fluctuates continually, however, and proper surge protectors are advisable for any expensive equipment.

TimeUganda is three hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Timeremains constant throughout the year.

PeopleThe people are warm, friendly, and full of humour. They are anxious to make friends with visitors and are continually asking guests whether they are comfortable and enjoying themselves. A large number of people speak English.

ExcursionsUganda is beginning to develop an excellent tourist infrastructure, with first-rate roads and communication facilities. Uganda’s national game, forest and recreational parks are indeed some of the spectacular showpieces Africa has to offer. They do have regulations regarding off-the-road driving, game watching, and so on, which are clearly stated at the entrance gates of parks or on leaflets supplied by the tourist offices. Mountaineering safaris to the Ruwenzori Mountains in the western Rift Valley are now becoming a favourite Ugandan expedition. Similar safaris can also be organised to climb Mount Elgon in the east, sharing the border with Kenya.

HotelsThere are international-standard hotels in Entebbe, Kampala and Jinja, as well as in many of the smaller towns. Camping, rustic bush camps and guest houses are also available. The Kampala Sheraton, the Serena Kampala, the Grand Imperial, and the Nile Hotel, all in the national’s capital are by the best. There are many other less expensive, but quite nice hotels in the city. Outside Kampala, most towns also have a variety of moderately priced and budget hotels.

Banking hoursThere is a wide range of banks in Uganda, particularly in Kampala. Their hours are generally from 0830 to 1400 on weekdays, and Saturdays from 0830 to 1200. Forex bureaux keep longer hours – 0900 to 1700 on weekdays and 0900 to 1300 on Saturdays. ATMs are available in the larger cities.

CommunicationsTelephone, Telex, fax and airmail services connect Kampala to all parts of the world. Services are available at the General Post Office and its many branches, as well as in the main hotels. International direct dialling is available and now there are a number of Internet cafes.

Medical servicesUganda has good health services, with some good government and private hospitals and clinics in the major cities. Air rescue services are available.

CurrencyUganda Shilling (UGX). Notes are in denominations of UGX 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5,000 and 1,000. Coins are in denominations of UGX 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. You can change money at banks and hotels. Although the forex bureaux usually have better exchange rates.

Credit cardsInternational credit cards are accepted in major hotels and shops.

Working hoursShops and businesses are generally open from 0830 to 1730 on weekdays, with a lunch break between 1300 and 1400. Some businesses are open on Saturday, at least until midday. Small, local shops or kiosks on the side of many roads are generally open much later, until about 2130 and on weekends and holidays as well; they stock basic food and household items.

Public Holidays

20101 January New Year’s Day26 January Liberation Day8 March International Women’s Day2 April Good Friday5 April Easter Monday1 May Labour Day3 June Martyrs’ Day9 June National Heroes’ Day11 September Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan)9 October Independence Day17 November Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice)25 December Christmas Day26 December Boxing Day

Note:The two Muslim holidays, Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximate.

CustomsBesides personal effects, a visitor may import duty-free spirits (including liquors) or wine up to one litre, perfume and toilet water up to half a litre and 270 grammes of tobacco or 200 cigarettes. Other imported items, not exceeding US$100 may be brought in duty free and without an import licence, provided they are not prohibited or restricted goods, are for personal use, and are not for resale.

Note: A special permit is required to export game trophies.

Health requirementsVisitors from areas infected with yellow fever and cholera required certificates on inoculation. All visitors are advised to take an antimalarial prophylactic beginning two weeks before their arrival and continuing for six weeks after their departure. A gamma globulin injection provides some protection against possible infection by hepatitis and is well worth taking.

Visa and immigration requirementsVisa applications may be obtained at Uganda diplomatic missions. Two photographs are required for visas, which are usually issued within 24 hours. Visas are also available at the country’s entry points. Check with the Uganda diplomatic mission in your country if visa is required as some countries are exempted.

Taxi servicesTaxis are immediately available at Entebbe International Airport. They can also be found outside most hotels in Kampala and at most of the country’s major centres. All don’t have meters, so make sure the fare is negotiated in advance.

Car rentalSeveral firms operate car hire services in Kampala. Vehicles may be hired with or without driver. For trips outside the city it is possible to hire insured cars appropriate for the trip (a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a driver-translator is recommended).

Entebbe International AirportThe main point of entry is Entebbe International Airport, about a 30-minute drive south of the capital, Kampala. Although modest, the modern airport does provide automated passenger facilities, currency exchange, postal services, banking facilities, telephoned, duty-free shops, gift shops and a restaurant and bar.

SecurityThe same rules apply for Kampala as for almost any city anywhere.Becareful and take the usual precautions to safeguard yourself and your belongings. Do not leave valuables in your car. Walking at night in all major centres is reasonably safe.

TIPS FOR THE TRAVELLER IN UGANDAAIR UGANDA CONTACTS AND OFFICES

Kampala Sales Office: Tel: +256 (0) 412 165 555/ +256 (0) 312 165 555Email: [email protected]: +256 (0) 414 258 267Jubilee Insurance Centre, Ground Floor,Plot 14, Parliament Avenue, P. O. Box 36591, Kampala, Uganda.

Dar es Salaam Sales Office: Tel: +255 (0) 222 133 331/5/6 +255 (0) 783 111 992 Email: [email protected]/o Holiday Africa Tours and Safaris(Opp. Habib African Bank)Indiragandhi Street, P.O. Box 22636Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. Nairobi Sales Office: Tel: +254 (0)20 313 933Email: [email protected] Floor, Jubilee Insurance Building,Wabera Street, Nairobi, Kenya.

Mombasa Sales Office:Tel: +254 (0) 412 313 626Email: [email protected] TSS Towers, Nkrumah Road, 1st FloorMombasa, Kenya.

Zanzibar Sales Office: Tel: +255 (0) 242 233 506/7Email: [email protected] Afrique Cinema MalindiPO Box 251, Zanzibar, Tanzania. Juba Sales Office: Tel: +256 (0) 477 153 912Email: [email protected] Suk Street, (Opp. the Mosque)Juba, Sudan.

Kigali Sales Office: Tel: +250 (0) 252 577 926/ +250 (0) 252 577 928/ +250 (0) 788 380 926/ +250 (0) 722 926 926Email: [email protected] No. 26 UTC (Union Trade Centre) Building, Town Centre. Kigali, Rwanda.

Head Office: Tel: +256 (0) 414 258 262/4 +256 (0) 417 717 401Fax: +256 (0) 414 500 932 Email: [email protected] Africa Airlines (U) LtdPlot 11/13, Lower Kololo TerraceP.O.Box 36591, Kampala, Uganda. Entebbe International Airport (Ticketing Office): Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485 +256 (0) 417 717 222Email:[email protected] [email protected] Floor, Passenger Terminal Building, Entebbe, Uganda.

Please Note:After working hours on weekdays (17:45hrs - 21:00hrs), Saturday (14:00hrs - 21:00hrs) and Sunday (07:30hrs - 21:00hrs) Please call our Entebbe ticketing office on Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485 +256 (0) 417 717 222

Page 29: Inflight Magazine

52 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

CROSSWORD PUZZLE & SUDOKU

8 2

86

5

98 1

24

8

2 971 6

9

17

6

521 8

59

142

3

26 27

29 3028

24 25

23

22212019

16

1514

13

1211

9

7 81 2 3 54 6

10

17

18

Clues across

1. Grow a sponge to find a stinger (4)

3. Southern chill produces reprimand (5)

6. A department of detectives is corrosive (4)

11. To power mixture used to pull (3-4)

12. Unbeatable, and definitely not the same (2, 5)

13. Accommodation, fitted-out but off-key (9, 4)

16. Replies suitable for the laboratory? (7)

17. Doctor combines with some cricket to move cattle (7)

18. Idea loses a place in disfigurement, and attach

to a motor-cycle (4-3)

21. Definitely a hands-on job! (7)

23. Busy holiday spot is the place for disturbed poor

rural pets (7,6)

26. ‘I has gun’ to cause real pain (7)

27. Country formed from rail end (7)

28. This tax has a moral obligation (4)

29. A smart guy, or just a representative (5)

30. Half a game of bowls makes brief theatrical sketch (4)

Clues down

1. Keep these about you to stay alert! (4)

2. What an observer witnessed at the timber yard? (7)

4. Credit relieves the fold lines (7)

5. Des gets mixed up with African river for oil-producing

plant (7)

7. Three quarters of an hour in cage – that’s bravery! (7)

8. Idol leaves toy inside (4)

9. Rural relative or maybe one living abroad? (7, 6)

10. In control, sounds like personal ownership (4-9)

14. Sweep or scrub with hurried note (5)

15. Hindu surprise contains seizure without authority (5)

19. Water shortage. Medic ought to end it (7)

20. Go hoard mixture for anti-social motorist (4, 3)

21. Antrim with a disturbed alien (7)

22 Set aside frisky mare to join Noah’s boat (7)

24 Port from the dais – that’s spoken (4)

25 Edict minus century, prepare for publication (4)

Place a number from 1 to 9

in every empty cell so that

each row, each column and

each 3x3 box contains all the

numbers from 1 to 9. No

number can appear twice in a

row, column or 3x3 box.

Do not guess – you can work

it out by a process of

elimination.

Crossword

Answers across1. Wasp; 3. Scold; 6. Acid; 11. Tow-rope; 12. No equal; 13. Furnished flat; 16. Retorts; 17. Drovers; 18. Side-car; 21. Masseur; 23. Popular resort; 26. Anguish; 27. Ireland; 28. Duty; 29. Agent; 30. Skit

Answers down1. Wits; 2. Sawdust; 4. Creases; 5. Linseed; 7. Courage; 8. Doll; 9. Country cousin; 10. Self-possessed;14. Brush; 15. Usurp; 19. Drought; 20. Road hog; 21. Martian; 22. Earmark; 24. Said; 25. Edit

Sudoku