kimonoinfant/toddler sleep sack

Safer than a blanket, a sleep sack keeps little ones warm and cozy without any worries. The wrapped front opening is easy to put on and requires no zipper! Simple enough for a beginner, you can quickly sew

up a few in different fabrics for cozy naps year round.

how-to: page 1

size

smallappx. 3-9 months

mediumappx. 9-18 months

largeappx. 18-36 months

sleep sackfinished length

31 inches

35 inches

40 inches

sleep sackchest width

34.5 inches

36.5 inches

38.5 inches

kimono - size chart

When selecting a size, remember to consider your baby should haveplenty of room to move their feet - you may want to allow 6” at the bottom.

what you will needBODY: appx.65” (45“ wide)/ 57” (60“ wide) woven craft-weight cotton or blend

(quilting prints, etc.), jersey, lightweight fleece or flannel. LINING: appx.65” (45“ wide)/ 57” (60“ wide) flannel, jersey or woven craft-weight cotton

FOR BEST RESULTS, BE SURE TO PRE-WASH FABRICS.

NOTIONS: 3/4” wide hook and loop tape for shoulder closure - 3.75” total cut into five pieces 3/4” each

BUTTONS ARE NOT RECOMMENDED.

how-to: page 2

notes

date

a - chestb - waistc- hipd- length/height

your child’s size chart

how-to: page 3

seam attachment point

join these two numbered pieces

gather/pleat between these two points

ease between these two points

direction for pleat/dart to be pressed

beginning or end of vent/pleat

button or snap

buttonhole

zipper ending

slash/cut here

stitch line

grainline as indicated

ALL OTHERS AS MARKED

legend of symbols

fabric right side

fabric reverse side

lining right side

lining reverse side

for these diagrams

how-to: page 4

printing layout

1 2

5 6

9 10

13 14

19 20

3

7

11

15

21

4

8

12

16

22

18

24

17

23

how-to: page 5

cutting & yardage guide*this guide shows common 45” and 60” widths laid open with piece 3 mirrored.

Extra fabric may be needed to accomodate shrinkage.For directional patterns, be sure to lay

out as shown. See “Getting Started” for more.

Layout applies to lining as well, but no bias (piece 4) is needed.

45” widela

rge

65”

, me

d 6

0“, s

ma

ll 55

” lo

ng

1

2

3

4

1

2

3

4

60” wide

larg

e 5

7”, m

ed

52“

, sm

all

47”

lon

g

how-to: page 6

1. Begin by printing all the required pattern pieces. They are designed to fit on standard letter size (8.5” x 11”) paper. Refer to the 1” scale guide to be sure the size is correctly printed.

2. When all your pieces are printed you can begin to assemble the pattern – refer to the printing layout for reference if needed. Arrange the pieces in order, noting the numbers and letters for matching. Fold or cut precisely along the top and right hand sides; when ready, begin to tape to the lower left hand sides and work your way through the pages.

3. Determine the size you will need and cut following the lines as indicated. You can change a pattern to fit a size as necessary before you cut. If you need to make a pattern longer, cut along the indicated lines and spread the pieces apart to the desired length. If you need to make a pattern shorter, fold along the indi-cated lines and overlap to the length you need.

4. Using the cutting and yardage guide for reference, lay out your pattern pieces, noting the grainline and any pieces that may need to be placed on a fold. Pieces cut on a fold will be mirrored when open. 5. Pieces cut on a single layer of fabric are cut with the pattern on the right side of the fabric as shown. Pieces cut from two layers are cut with the pattern on the wrong side of the fabric. If your fabric is directional, meaning the print has a top and bottom be sure your pieces face the same way or you may have an upside down piece! 6. If you need to cut multiples of a piece you may want to make a photocopy/additional print and lay everything out at once. 7. When you have laid out your pieces, pin them in place. It’s a good idea to cut your pieces flat on your working surface – never pick them up and trim in your hand as they can shift or stretch.

8. Matching points like or can be marked with chalk or when at the edge of fabric, marked with a small cut no more than ¼”.

getting started

how-to: page 7

1. With the right sides together, pin the front and back pieces along the sides and sew a 1/2” seam from the armholes down to the notches. Press the seams open and flat. Repeat for the lining.

2. Place the lining and outer fabric together, right sides facing in. Sew a 1/2” seam around the back neck. Sew a 1/2” seam around the armholes, stopping about 2” down from the shoulders. Clip the curves with small cuts from the edge towards the seam, being careful not to cut the stitches.

how to make it

clip curves

sew around armholesleave open

stop at notches

how-to: page 8

3. Sew across left the front neck, pivot at the corner, and down the side to the notch. TIP: to sew a clean point where the neck and side meet, sew along the neck, stopping 1/2” from the edge. Lift your pressure foot, and pivot only 45 degrees. Sew one stitch. Pivot the other 45 degrees and down the seams, ending at the notch on the larger left front piece, and the hemline on the smaller right front piece. Cut the corner points off and clip along the curved neckline. Repeat for the right front, and clip the inside curve as well. Turn right side out.

4. Open the shoulders and line up the two ends, right sides together, matching the neckline seams (see next page). Sew a 1/2” seam and press open. Turn inside out again.

trim the end point

one stitch across the point

clip curve

how-to: page 9

5. Pull one end of the shoulder through from inside and pin together the remaining open area. TIP: pin a generous 1” or so in to prevent the fabric from getting caught. Stitch closed the remainder of open armhole, lining up the shoulder seams. Clip the rest of the armhole.

6. Turn the sleepsack right-side out again. Carefully turn the corners of the neck out, using a blunt pencil or other small tool if needed to fully push into place. Press all the edges and seams flat, clipping more of the seams if necessary.

7. Lay flat and pin the hook and loop tape closures in place. The rough hook tape will go on the right side of the smaller right front piece. The soft loop tape will go on the lining of the larger left front piece. Sew in place, a narrow stitch around the edges.

sew opening

join shoulders

hook tape

loop tape

how-to: page 10

notes

questions? email us at info@louloujames.com© 2013 loulou james |creative studio

8. Lay the front pieces in place, left over right, smoothing the layers flat. Pin or baste along the hem, matching the edges and notches up.

9. Fold the bias trim in half lengthwise and press flat. Matching the raw edges and centre notches, pin to the front of the sleepsack, working the bias around the curves and towards the side notches. The raw ends of the bias will extend beyond the notches. Pin or baste in place and sew a 1/2” seam allowance.

10. Fold the tape ends in at the notches/stitch end and wrap the bias around to the back. Pin in place. Sew the tape down by hand using a slipstitch or topstitch close to the edge.

match notches

raw edges together

fold down end wrap underand around to back