Industrial attachment of acs textils ltd Bangladesh

INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF

ACS TEXTILES (BANGLADESH) LTD.

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ACS TEXTILES (BANGLADESH) LTD.

Tetlabo, Rupgonj, Narayangonj

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Abstract

The aim of industrial practice is to make us familiar with any kind of industry, the whole

process going on the industry, its environment and also with the management system of

the industry. As a student ofTextile Engineering Department, the target of should be

to know the production process, management system, marketing, production planning,

quality assurance, compliance, mechanical-electrical department etc. It is because of the

fact that to run any industry not only production department is obvious but also the

capability of managing the whole system is an obvious matter. It is also a responsibility

of an engineer is to develop the ongoing process into a better system to cope with the

present competition. Thus a diversified challenge emerges in front of the manufacturer

and other organizations. With a view to overcome this consequence a new generation of

engineering graduates with leadership skills and management capabilities altogether

are in demand.

We the students of Textile Engineering Department were sent to different industries

and assigned to different tasks. We were assigned toACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. This

report is a presentation of our experience in the Woven dyeing production.

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Acknowledgement

All praises to Almighty Allah alone, the Most merciful and the most compassionate and

His Holy prophet “ Muhammad “ (Peace be Upon Him) the most perfect and exalted one

among and of ever born on the earth, who is forever touch of guidance and knowledge

for the humanity.

I would like to thank Prof. SAYED FAKRUL HASAN MURAD, Dean & Head of the

department of Textile Engineering, SOUTHEAST University whose directions have

taken me to my destination. I am also grateful to Dr. A.B.M. FAYSAL, professor,

department of Textile Engineering, Primeasia University for his scholastic guidance,

constructive criticism, painstaking help constant inspiration and advice from the very

beginning till the completion of this work.

I also want to express my gratitude and appreciation to Md. Anwar Hossain, Assistant

professor, Wet Processing Technology, SOUTHEAST University, for his encouragement,

valuable suggestion, and guidance and decision which able to help to do this Industrial

attachment successfully.

This internship report is not the result of individual effort. It is a result of wonderful

team-work.

We are really thankful on Md. Abdullahel , Lab Manager and Mohammad Saiful Azam,

Assistant manager(production),Mr. Md. Johrul Kabir, General Manager of Admin &

HR, of ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. who gave us the approval for making of that regard.

We are also really thankful on Mr. Tariq Raja, manager of pre production processes Mr.

Niyaz, manager of weaving, Mr. Ramjan, general Manager of weaving at ACS Textiles

Bangladesh Ltd. to help us for getting information about our internship.

We are thankful to all those who supported us and provide us great help for completion

of this task. We have tried our level best to prepare this event with high level of

accuracy but no one claim to perfect other than Almighty Allah.

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Table of contents

Chapter Topics Page No. Introduction to ACS

Textiles(Bangladesh) Ltd Summery 06

Company profile 13 Buyers 18 Organism of manpower 23 Layout of Woven Dyeing 24

Production planning &

sequence operation

Sequence of operation 26

Introduction & Basic procedure of planning & control

27

Preparation Unit

Singeing &Desizing 30

Scouring & Bleaching 37

Mercerizing 44

Dyeing section

Reactive Dyeing 49

Disperse Dyeing 52

Pigment Dyeing 62

Finishing Section 71

Quality control 90

Maintenance 102

Store & inventory control 115

Utilities 120

Conclusion 125

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Chapter-One

INTRODUCTION TO ACS TEXTILES (BANGLADESH) LTD.

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Executive summary

This report is the result of two months internship. During the internship it was required

to study the organization, department of the organization and critically relate the

theoretical aspects of the Textile to the practical situation.

ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. operates throughout the world with over 6000employees

as part of ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. team. ACS collection has a wide selection of

quality 100% cotton, CVC, Cotton -polyester, competent professional staff, a team

of talented merchandisers, excellent supplies & support services, and state-of-the-art

technology is the driving force behind ACS’s phenomenal growth in the past years. ACS

has expanded its operations to include the Internet, and has taken advantage of the

variety of international trade facilitated by the Web. Now ACS is state-of-the-art

client/server technology for its market information processes to coordinate its network

of global buyers and agents around the world. Environmental Organizational and the

individual challenges which are to face by the department of “ACS Textiles Bangladesh

Ltd.”. The motive of joining the ACS is to have an exposure of textile sector and

potential to avail a sound and promising career. There are no formal union in ACS

Textiles Bangladesh Ltd.

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Methodology of internship

Every research program should follow some basic form of procedures. However mainly

this report is written on the basis of experience gathered during the period of

Internship. We carefully observed the various activities of different department,

especially fabric section of ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. A qualitative research is used

to conduct this study.

In order to make the report more meaningful and presentable two sources of data and

information have been used widely. Both primary and secondary data have been used to

prepare the report

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Initial Conversation

Industrial attachment is the first step to professional life of student, especially of

technical Side. It’s an indispensable part of study a practically running processing

technology of an industrial unit for a student .In our university , processing machines

are not in continuous running condition, so it would only provide demonstration of

mechanical features & processing technology of the material in accomplishment of the

theory there of but not of the situational variables to achieve practical knowledge. So

two months industrial attachment program in a dyeing mill was arranged for us.

Textile education can’t be completed without industrial training. Because this industrial

attachment program minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge

and make me accustomed to industrial environment. I got an opportunity to complete

two month long industrial training in ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd., which is a 100%

export, oriented Weaving Industry. It has well planned & equipped fabric and Yarn

dyeing-finishing units in addition to facilitate weaving & woven fabric manufacturing.

The rationale behind the existing structure and future expansion of ACS Textiles

Bangladesh Ltd. is to capture value-added at each stage of the textile manufacturing

process.

Despite Bangladesh’s lack of indigenous cotton production capacity.ACS Textiles

Bangladesh Ltd. has leveraged Bangladesh’s labor cost advantage and export

competitiveness to the Maximum.

Objectives of Internship

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Objective:

The objective of the report is to learn about the overall activities of different

departments in

ACS Textiles Ltd. A primary textile industry Academic knowledge is not perfect without

practical knowledge.

Specific Objectives:

This intern paper has been prepared for fulfilling the following specific objectives:

To enlarge the dimension of knowledge regarding fabric manufacturing as well

as others.

To define and evaluate the performance of fabric manufacturing Department as

well as others.

To observe the effectiveness of fabric manufacturing as well as others.

To get the additional knowledge in different sections of the organization.

To interchange opinions of the officials regarding their organization.

To know the economic condition of Bangladesh through ACS Textiles Ltd. of

Bangladesh.

To identify the difference between theory (what we have learned from the text)

and practice (what is really happened).

To compare the improvement of the present condition of the ACS Textiles Ltd.

with the previous years.

To mention the problems that the ACS Textiles Ltd. face in the process of

production and delivery of garments & give some suggestions.

To identify the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats of the ACS

Textiles Ltd.

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ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. symbolizes trust and quality in Home Textile

Products manufacturing across Bangladesh. A 100% British investment, ACS takes

pride in its state-of-the-art composite manufacturing facility with weaving, dying,

printing, finishing and packing services which are one of the largest of its kind in

Bangladesh.

ACS Textiles is a quality conscious company. Based on sound policies to ensure the

finest quality of the products, the manufacturing processes are compliant with ISO

9001: 2008 standards producing top quality bedding and linen sheets ranging from 200

- 400 thread count percale sheets to satin sheets and duvets, Egyptian and organic

cotton and yarn dyed fabric. A recent addition to our products is a wide range of towels

for all kinds of use.

ACS Textiles BD Ltd. has come a long way since its establishment in 2004 and, over the

years has built a global reputation of excellence matched by only a few others in the

textile industry.

The manufacturing facility employs over 6000 people and averages about 30,000 pieces

of superior quality textile products per day. These high quality ACS Textile products

have found their market in European countries such as Italy and France and in

Scandinavian Europe namely Sweden, Holland, Denmark and Norway. 2008 saw ACS

expanding its export clientele to include Australia and North America as well.

Our excellence is recognized not only by our customers but also by official authorities

for quality standards – Okeo-Tex standard 100 certification further endorses our

unswerving commitment to quality.

Name Of The Industry:ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd.

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Type of the industry: A foreign invested 100% export oriented home

textiles manufacturer.

Company’s Logo:

Company’s Motto:

“Make continuous effort to offer our customers quality products and effective services

and realize our principle of customer first, service is ultimate.”

Mission Statement:

Our Mission is to be the market leader of home linen (bed linen and towels), by the year

2015. To provide a healthy, safe and competitive work environment for our employees

and reward them justly for their efforts

ACS as we see:

Established in 2004 gc and located 16 kilometers from the centre of Dhaka city and on

the main road to Dhaka – Shylethighway.ACS represents the aspiration of about

153,546,896 inhabitants in Bangladesh country. The factory is a magnificent landmark

in the middle of beautiful valley surrounded by lake, and is only 20kms. That is one of

half hour drive away from Dhaka airport.

Corporate structure:

ACS Textile Bangladesh Ltd. Is an industry with an investment of 50 million US dollars

and registered with British high commission as 100% British Investment Company. All

members of the board of directors are British citizen having the separate business in the

name of pin mill textile, a company of last 50 years with turnover of 10 million GBP.

Corporate culture:

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Continuous improvement is an integral part of our corporate culture. Nurturing and

effectively integrating “ People, Management and Development” is the key focus where

corporate culture gives empowerment of employees in taking initiative, involving in

decision making, interacting for collective bargaining, self- enhancement opportunities

and bringing in changes essential to meet business strategy. The management is

strongly committed to social compliance issues. Our policies strictly prohibit child labor,

forced labor, and monetary penalties as a form of disciplinary action. We believe in

social accountability and thus ACS is involved in development projects in Bangladesh.

Quality Control:

ACS maintains stringent quality control practices and conducts computerized testing

processes to determine strength of yarn, density of cloth and fastness of colors. Quality

control processes are set up at every stage of production with the strictest of standards

to adhere to; ensuring all production is of the highest quality.

The quality control personnel conduct pre-inspection of goods at different stages to

maintain international standards and to screen out defective products at the onset.

The policy that ACS Textiles (BD) Ltd. follows is:

o Provide consistent quality products and services with on time delivery to achieve

and enhance customer satisfaction.

o Provide a safe & conducive working environment to employees and encourage

their involvement in the never ending effort to improve quality of our products

and services.

o Minimize environmental impact through prevention of pollution, solid & liquid

waste management and conversation of natural resources.

o Promoting awareness and importance of Quality & Environment among our

employees, the community and our suppliers.

o Ensure continual improvement and compliance with customer & relevant

environmental legislation regulations.

Company Profile:

Name : ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd.

Address : Tetlabo, Rupgonj, Narayanganj, Bangladesh Tel: +880-2-7452039, +880-2-7452040, +880-2-7450724, +880-2-7450725 Fax: 880-2-7450786

E-mail : [email protected]

Web : www.acstextiles.com

Legal status of company : Limited company

Year of establishment : 2004, 13th April

Sponsor Banks : Southeast Bank

Dilkusha commercial area Dhaka-1000 Dutch Bangla Bank Mothijhil commercial area Dhaka-1000 Bank Al-Falah Ltd. Rajuk Avenue Mothijhil commercial area Dhaka-1000

Insurance

:American Life Insurance Company ALICO Building, 18-20 motijhil C/A P.O. Box 9, Dhaka-1000,Bangladesh Tel: +880-2-9561791, +880-2-7160025 Fax: +880-2-9558682 E-mail: [email protected]

Total land area

:5,50,000 square fetes

Production capacity

:1,05,000 meters per day

mailto:[email protected]

http://www.acstextiles.com/

mailto:[email protected]

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Total employees

:Approx. 6000

Total consumer

:Above 60

Annual capacity

:31,00000 meters

Standard certification program

:BSCI global standard (for client: V&D &lidi) BRC global standard- consumer product Certificate no. GB08/75996 Control union certification (GOTS & OE) Certificate no.C810124GOTS-01.2008 Certificate no.C8 10124OE-01.2008 OEKO-TEX standard 100 Test no.07KA.56878 ISO certification (in the pipeline) SA-8000 certification (in the pipeline)

http://www.acstextiles.com/uploads/05.pdf




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Membership

:Bangladesh Textile Mills Association(BTMA) Membership no. 0002-0179-0401 Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) Enrolment no. TM12 Narayanganj Chamber Of Commerce & Industry Registration no. 465 of book 5 Foreign Investors chamber of commerce & Industry Registration no. 122 of book 2

Valid Licenses and Certificates

: Factory license Fire license Boiler license Trade license Export license Import license Environmental clearance license Income tax certificates Group insurance certificate Acid using license

Factory achievement

:

National Export Trophy 2008-2009

http://www.acstextiles.com/images/999.jpg

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Product Mix:

Fabrics

a. In Tappet loom.

i. Plain.

ii. Twill.

iii. Sateen.

iv. Some combination weaves

which are possible in tappet.

v. Oxford. (Warp rib and weft

rib).

vi. Queen’s Oxford.

vii. Matt.

viii. Double cloth

b. In Dobby loom:

i. Various types of weave.

ii. Diamond.

iii. Diaper.

iv. Herring bone.

v. Honey comb.

vi. The designs which are

possible in 16 healed frames.

Different Department:

A. Administration.

B. Human Resource and Development Dept.

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C. Weaving Preparatory& Design

D. Lab

E. Weaving.

F. R & D(Research & Development)

G. Woven finishing.

H. Dyeing

I. Printing

J. Terry Towel

K. Stitching

L. Packaging

M. Store.

N. Planning Dept.

O. Utility Dept.

P. Procurement & Purchasing

Q. Marketing

R. QA Dept.

S. Inspection Dept.

T. Mechanical Dept.

U. Electrical Dept.

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Buyers

Buyers Name Logo

M & S

SAINSBURY’S

TESCO

DUNELM

HOUSE OF FRASER

JOHN LEWIS

LA REDOUTE

3 SUISSES

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CASINO

DESCAMPS

OLIVIER

M

FRANCOISE

BLANCHEPORTE

PRINCESS

HOIE

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KID

EE CORTE INGEES

V & D

VESPO

HEMA

WALLACE COTTON

HEMTEX

LEXINGTON

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NITORI

SODAHL

LIDL

ADAIRS

BED BATHN’ TABLE

WALMART

GIANT TIGER

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LOBLAWS

HBC

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Organogram of manpower

Shift system

Per shift is 8hrs

1st shift : 6:00 A.M – 2:00 P.M (shift A)

2nd shift : 2:00 P.M – 10:00P.M(shift B)

3rd shift : 10.00 P.M – 6:00 A.M (shift C)

General shift : 9:00 A.M – 6:00 P.M

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LAY OUT OF WOVEN DYEING

Final Inspection Yarn Dyeing

Sin

gei

ng M

/C

Ble

achin

g M

/C

Mer

ceri

zin

g M

/C

Ch

emic

al p

ad S

team

Pad

dry

P

ad d

ry T

her

mo

sol

Ste

nte

r M

/C

Ste

nte

r M

/C

Cal

end

erM

/C

Shri

nkag

e M

/C

Jigger

M/C

Qu

alit

y

Co

ntr

ol

Co

lor

Kit

chen

Fin

ish

Ch

emic

al

Pre

par

atio

n

Ch

emic

al

C

aust

ic

R

eco

ver

y

Dy

e St

ore

W

et

Chem

.

Sto

re

Dry

Chem

.

Sto

re

Tra

inin

g

Pea

chin

g

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Chapter-Two

PRODUCTION PLANNING & SEQUENCE OPERATION

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Sequence of operation:

Weaving

Grey fabric inspection

Singeing

Mercerizing

Scouring/Bleaching

Dyeing

Stentering

Sanforizing

Emerizing

Calendaring

Final Inspection

Packing

Delivery to garments industry

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Introduction and Basic Procedure of Planning and

Control:

A planned work brings success. Without planning nothing is completed within

the required time. So planning has its own importance which is intolerable, “Planning”

gives a scheduled task and ‘Control’ completes it successfully. But production planning

and control is not an easy task. So BEXIMCO has a self-sufficient and high-performance

department called “Production Planning & Control”. Its Basic working procedure is as

follows-

1. Taking orders from marketing division.

2. Analyzing the orders.

3. Planning for weaving the fabric.

4. Planning for dyeing the fabric.

5. Planning for finishing the fabric.

6. Cost analysis & load time.

It is only a basic procedure. It may change according to the type of order.

Sometimes, order is places only for finishing the material or only for dyeing the white

goods. Then some steps are omitted from the planning procedure.

1. Taking orders from marketing division:

BEXIMCOmarking division supplies Fabric Orders to the BTL Planning and control

division by a special format.

2. Analyzing the orders:

This section analyzes the orders according to buyers, Order Quantity, type of

orders (i.e. type of fabric, color to be dyed etc.), delivery date etc. Then it selects which

M/C. to use, no of M/C. to use, time required for production etc. This section plans for

required quantity of fabric need to be dyed. Dyeing balance, RFD (Ready for delivery),

RFD balance, delivered fabric and delivery balance.

3. Planning for weaving:

This section plans for weaving production. It selects machine for weaving the

fabric for specific type of fabric, type of yarn used, required GSM, width etc. It also gives

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delivery data for woven fabric. It also places orders for buying of yarn from spinning

mills by a specific schedule.

4. Planning for dyeing the fabric:

Production planning for dyeing is called ‘Batch Plan’. According to the batch no.

and color, width, style and construction the batch plan is made. For easy understand

this section gives some ‘T’. Cards. ‘T’ card are serialized according to the priority of

delivery. The batches and ‘T’ cards also serialized as to dye light shade at first and lastly

the dark shades, so that faulty shades can be converted to dark color later.

5. Planning for finishing the fabric:

Finishingschedule is same us the dyeing. After dyeing the material goes to the

finishing section with the process rout card. Finished data is written to the rout card

and is informed to the planning section.

However, this section always enforces to all the departments to finishing all the

works within the delivery time given by the buyers. This section delivers materials to

the garment factory in the lead time. Thus it plays a very important role in the success of

the company.

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Chapter-Three

PREPARATION UNIT

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Singeing and Desizing

Singeing:

Singeing is a process for removing hairy/projectile fiber from the fabric surface.

Desizing:

Desizing is a process for removing sizing material from the fabric by chemical

treatment.

Cold Bleach:

It is a process to remove dirt, dust, husk, leaf from the fabric and transfer it into

permanent white by chemical treatment in cold condition.

Process Requirement:

Equipment Used:

OSTHOFF singing and Desizing machine.

Key Accessories:

Fork lifter, wooden plate, sewing machine, A-frame or batchers etc. are the key

accessories for singing for white cotton fabric and special yarn dyed fabric (PC-015)

In addition to the aforesaid tools mixing tank, reserve tank, pH meter polythine

paper, rotation station, hand gloves, eye protecting glass, clip/finger clip etc are some

additional tools/ accessories used for the following fabric process-

For all cotton color fabric. For all cotton color peace finish fabric. Singing and Desizing for yarn dyed fabric and PC / CVC fabric. Singing and cold bleach for PC / CVC fabric. Only Desizing for PC / CVC / yarn dyed peach finish fabric. Singing and cold bleach for Bull-Twill (Heavy fabric).

Material and Chemical used:

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Steam, compressed air, water, natural gas, Desizing agent, wetting agent, sequestering

agent and dearating.

Singeing, Desizing and Cold Bleach recipe:

Fabric Name Chemical/material used Composition 1. All cotton

color fabric 2. All cotton

color peach finish fabric (for only desizing)

3. Yarn dyed and PC / CVC fabric

Desizing agent Dearating agent Wetting agent Sequestering Agent

Follow the bulk recipe by fabric type

Natural gas for burner, steam, compressed air, water

N/A

4. White cotton fabric and special yarn dyed fabric (for only singing).

Natural gas for burner, compressed air, water

N/A

5. PC / CVC fabric (for singeing and cold bleach)

H2O2,NaOH,Stabilizer Wetting agent / Detergent Sequestering Agent Dearating agent


Natural gas for burner, compressed air, water

N/A

6. PC / CVC yarn dyed peach finish fabric (only for desizing)

Desizing agent Dearating agent Wetting agent Sequestering Agent


steam, compressed air, water

N/A

7. Bull-Twill i.e. heavy fabric (for singeing, desizing, cold bleach)

H2O2,NaOH,Stabilizer Wetting agent Sequestering Agent Dearating agent Desizing agent


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Fig: Singeing &desizingmachine.

Production Procedure:

Machine set-up for production:

Machine set-up for singing and desizing for all cotton color fabric:

Machine set-up parameter

Actual parameter range

Machine set value M/C-1


Temperature (70-80)°C (70-85)°C (70-85)°C pH or Litmus paper 6.5-7 6.5 6.5 Burner position 1, 2, 3 3rd - Chemical level (700-1400) L (750-800) L (1000-1200)L Reserve chemical (1000-2000)liter 1000L 1000L Flame intensity (1-20) m.bar 11-13 m.bar 11-15 m.bar Pressure (1.3-1.5) bar (1.2-2) bar (2-2.5) bar Fabric position Face or Bake Face Face Burner 1 or 2 2 2 A-frame position Set nicely Set nicely Set nicely

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Machine set-up for singing for white cotton fabric and special yarn dyed (PC-015)

fabric:





Burner position 1, 2, 3 3rd - Flame intensity (1-20) m.bar (14-18) m.bar - Pressure (1.5-2) bar (1.8-2) bar (1.5-2) bar Fabric position Face or Bake Face Face Burner 1 or 2 2 2 A-frame position Set nicely Set nicely Set nicely

Machine set-up for desizing for all cotton color peach fabric:





Temperature (65-80)°C (65-80)°C (65-80)°C pH or Litmus paper (6-7.5) 6.5 6.5 Chemical level (700-1400) L (750-800) L (1000-1200)L Reserve chemical (1000-2000) L 1000 L 1000 L Pressure (1.5-2) bar (1.8-2) bar (1.5-2) bar Fabric position Face or Bake Face Face A-frame position Set nicely Set nicely Set nicely

Machine set-up for singing desizing for yarn dyed fabric and PC / CVC fabric:





Temperature (65-85)°C (65-85)°C (65-85)°C pH or Litmus paper 6-7.5 6.5 6.5 Burner position 1, 2, 3 2nd=PC

3rd=yarn dyed -

Chemical level (700-1400) L (750-800) L (1000-1200)L Reserve chemical (1000-2000)liter 1000 L 1000 L Flame intensity (1-20) m.bar (14-16) m.bar (11-15) m.bar Pressure (1.5-2) bar (1.8-2) bar 2 bar Fabric position Face or Bake Face Face Burner 1 or 2 2 2 A-frame position Set nicely Set nicely Set nicely Machine set-up for singing and cold bleach for PC / CVC fabric:





Burner position 1, 2, 3 2nd position -

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Chemical level (700-1400) L (750-800) L (1000-1200)L Reserve chemical (1000-2000)liter 1000 L 1000 L Flame intensity (13-16) m.bar (13-16) m.bar (11-15) m.bar Pressure (1.3-1.5) bar (1.8-2) bar 2 bar Fabric position Face or Bake Face Face Burner 1 or 2 2 2 A-frame position Set nicely Set nicely Set nicely

Machine set-up for desizing for PC / CVC yarn dyed peace finish fabric:





Temperature (65-85)°C (65-85)°C (65-85)°C pH or Litmus paper 6-7.5 6.5 6.5 Chemical level (700-1400) L (750-800) L (1000-1200)L Reserve chemical (1000-2000)liter 1000 L 1000 L Fabric position Face or Bake Face Face A-frame position Set nicely Set nicely Set nicely

Speed, Flame intensity, Burner position, Padder pressure

Reference are given in parameter set table

Machine set-up for singing and cold bleach for Bull-twill:




Chemical level (700-1400) L (750-800) L Reserve chemical (1000-2000)liter 1000 L Fabric position Face or Bake Face A-frame position Set nicely Set nicely

Speed, Flame intensity, Burner position, Padder pressure

Reference are given in parameter set

table

Parameter set table: Some important parameter for various fabric-

Quality Parameter range

P.C & C.V.C

Bull-Twill

T.C Pocketing/Voil

Light

Medium

Heavy

Yarn Dyed

Speed 60-120 100 70 70 70- 70 70 90-

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(m/min)

80 110

Flame Intensity (m.bar)

1-20 13 16 16 16 15 15 13

Burner Position

1,2,3 position

2 3 3 3 3 3 2

Padder Pressure (bar)

1.3-2.5 2-1.9

2-1.9 2-1.9 2-1.9 2-1.9 2-1.9 2-1.9

Check list before production:

Operator must check the following before starting production of the fabric named

bellow:

o All cotton colored fabric = Singing &Desizing. o All cotton colored peach finish fabric = Desizing. o Yarn dyed & P.C/C.V.C fabric = Singing &Desizing. o P.C/C.V.C fabric = Singing & Cold bleach. o P.C/C.V.C / yarn dyed peach finish fabric = Desizing. o Bull-Twill / Heavy fabric = Singing & Cold bleach. o White cotton fabric & Special yarn dyed (PC-015) fabric = Singing

(Without Chemical)

Item to be checked:

o Machine parameters are set. o Manpower is available. o Chemicals are available. o All accessories are available. o Fabric Stitch with tape fabric is done. o Sewing thread (cone) is available.

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Operation Procedure:

The sewing man stitches the fabric with tape fabric. He must be careful in stitching the

face side of fabric will the face side of the same fabric.

Operator turns the machine (OSTHOFF SENGE) on and set the machine at desired

speed given bellow :

Type of fabric Machine speed (m/min) Cotton colored 60-80 Cotton white 70-80 Yarn dyed 100-120 P.C/C.V.C 100 Bull-Twill 60

Processing continues until a frame or a batcher is complete. After completion of the

batcher the operator stop the machine and warps the batcher with polythene paper and

set it into the rotation station for at least 6-8 hours. In case of singing and cold bleach of

P.C / C.V.C fabric the polythene paper warped batcher is set into the rotation station for

24 hours. But in case of only singing of white cotton fabric and special yarn dyed (PC-

015) fabric the batcher need not to set into the rotation station. In the rotation station

the batcher rotates and the chemicals distributed equally in the fabric.

The quality of the product depends on various parameters like the machine speed,

temperature, pressure, flame intensity, chemical level burner position and pH value etc.

The operator must check the above parameter carefully during processing to avoid any

defect.

Product quality check:

During production the operator will check frequently the pH level of the solution by pH

meter or litmus paper check. The operator also check the cosmetic defect like projectile

hairy fiber by paralelly looking at fabric, fabric position, crease on the fabric, fabric

sewing and any other abnormalitic that can be detect by naked eye.

Q.C sample test:

Quality control department follow the pickup percent test method to verify the

quality during the process. This is done once in a month or after every maintenance. But

in case of only singing of white cotton fabric and yarn dyed fabric (PC-015) fabric it is

not need.

P a g e | 37

Scouring and Bleaching

Scouring:

Removing wax and oil by chemical treatment.

Bleaching:

Removing of natural nitrogenous coloring compound, dirt, dust, broken parts of seed or

leaf and whitening of fabric by chemical treatment.

Washing:

Removing size chemical and spot of fabric and increasing absorbency.

Equipment Used:

GOOLER scouring and bleaching machine.

Key Accessories:

Mixing tank, reverse tank, conical flax, pipette, burette, acid, Potassium permanganate ,

Phenolphthalein, eye protecting and hand gloves, sewing machine, boume meter, handle

for carrying batch/A frame fork lift.

Material / chemical used:

Water , steam, compressed air, NaOH, H2O2, stabilizer, wetting agent, detergent,

sequestering agent, and deatering agent.

A chemical solution is prepared for fabric processing as per recipe provided below:

Amount of chemicals:

Fabric (GSM)

weight

(Gm/m2)

Chemicals Chemical

composition

(ml/kg of fabric)

Without conveyer

Chemical

composition

(ml/kg of fabric)

With conveyer

P a g e | 38

Light fabric

(100-110)

H2O2 (50%)

NaOH (40˚BE)

Stabilizer

Detergent/wetting

Sequestering agent

Deatering agent

40-50

30-40

6-8

4-5

1-2

1-3

35-45

25-35

5-6

4-8

1-2

1-2

Medium fabric

(130-260)

H2O2 (50%)

NaOH (40˚BE)

Stabilizer

Detergent/wetting

Sequestering agent

Deatering agent

40-45

40-45

6-7

4-8

1-2

1

40-45

30-35

8-10

7-8

1-2

1.5

Heavy fabric H2O2 (50%)

NaOH (40˚BE)

Stabilizer

Detergent/wetting

Sequestering agent

Deatering agent

40-45

40-45

6-7

4-6

1-2

1

40-45

30-35

8-10

8-10

1-2

1.5

Scouring recipe for PC/ CVC:

Chemical Chemical composition(ml/kg of fabric)

Light fabric

NaoH (40BE)

Detergent / wetting agent

60-80

2-3

P a g e | 39

Heavy fabric

NaoH (40BE)

Detergent / wetting agent

80-90

3

After cold bleach recipe for all white fabric:

Chemical Chemical composition

(ml/kg of fabric) with conveyor

Light fabric

H2O2 (50%)

NaOH (40˚BE)

Stabilizer

Detergent/wetting

Sequestering agent

Deatering agent

15-25

15-20

5-6

3-4

1-2

0.5

Medium / heavy fabric

H2O2 (50%)

NaOH (40˚BE)

Stabilizer

Detergent/wetting

Sequestering agent

Deatering agent

20-25

15-20

6-7

3-4

1-2

1.5

Washing recipe:

Washing is done with hot water only detergent (2/3) gm/kg of fabric. May be used for

medium and heavy color fabric. Machine speed is mentioned in the speed table.

Titration:

Titration is the process for identifying the amount of chemical present in the solution.

The test chemical reagent 0.1 N HCL , 25% H2SO4, 0.1 N K2MNO4, are prepared by the

QC group.

P a g e | 40

Titration procedure for NaOH:

Take 1 ml sample of the chemical solution from the mother tank into a chemical flask.

Then add 25 ml of water with the solution and stir for few seconds. Next add 1-2 drops

of reagent onto the sample solution, this will turn the solution into light pink color.

Then the chemical flask with the sample is set under a burette containing 0.1N HCL acid

next HCL added to the sample solution and drop at a time until the light pink color

disappears. The no of 0.1 N HCL drops required is the reading that is used to calculate

the amount of NaOH present in the mixing tank.

Titration procedure for H2O2

Take 1 ml sample of the chemical solution from the mother tank to a chemical flask.

Then add 10 ml of 25% H2SO4 and 15 ml of water with the solution and stir it for few

seconds. Then the chemical flask with the sample is set under a burette containing 0.1 N

K2MNO4 next 0.1 N K2MNO4 is added to the sample solution one drop at a time until the

solution turn into light pink color. The no of 0.1 N K2MNO4 drops required in the

reading that is used to calculate the amount of H2O2 present in the mixing tank.

100% H2O2gm per 1 liter of solution is present in the mixing tank= 3.4 % reading.

Fig: Scouring & Bleaching Machine.

P a g e | 41

Fig: Flow diagram of Bleaching Machine.

Machine Set-up:

Describe bellow the machine set-up for scouring and bleaching process-

Machine speed set up

Fabric type With conveyer

m/min

Without

conveyer

m/min

Scour and bleach

Light/white

Light/color

Medium/white

Medium/color

Heavy/white

Heavy/color

70-80

60-70

60-70

60-65

50-55

45

N/A

60

N/A

45-50

N/A

30

Scour only

Light/white

Light/color

Medium/white

Medium/color

N/A

60-70

60-70

60-65

N/A

90-95

N/A

45-50

P a g e | 42

Heavy/white

Heavy/color

50-55

30-35

N/A

30-35

Bleach for white only

Light/white

Light/color

Medium/white

Medium/color

Heavy/white

Heavy/color

80-90

N/A

70-80

N/A

40-50

N/A

N/A

90-95

N/A

45-50

N/A

30-35

Washing for yarn dyed

Light and medium

N/A

90-100

Washing for solid dyed

Medium

heavy

N/A

N/A

70-90

50

Other parameters set up

Machine set up

parameters

Actual value / range Machine set value

Steaming time of conveyer

dwell time for all fabrics

18-25 min

Scour & bleach 22min

Re – bleach- 26 min

Scour- 20 min

Temperature for washing

Temp for steamer

90-95˚ C

102-106˚ C

90˚ C

104˚ C

P a g e | 43

Pressure for padder

Pressure for quizzer

Compensator pressure

Doctor blade position

Fabric position

Chemical level

Water level

Dosing pump

1.5-5 bar

2/3 bar

1.5/5 bar

1/2/3

Face/back

N/A

N/A

N/A

2-3 bar

2.25-2.5 bar

2-3 bar

2

Face

Up to level indicator

Above the roller

Based on the recipe PLC

is programmed.


Item to be selected:

Machine parameter section are set Manpower is available. Chemicals are available. All accessories are available. Fabric stitch with tape fabric is done. Sewing thread are available.

The quality of the product depends on various machines parameters the machine

speed pressure, temperature, pH, chemical level, tension etc. Operator must check these

parameters in every 10 min and also check the follow the chemical frequently through

the pump.

Production quality check:


or litmus paper check. The operator also check the cosmetic defects like spots on the

fabric, fabric position, fabric sewing, selvage torn or any other abnormalities that can be

detected by naked eye.

Quality control sample test:

QC department follow the pick percentage test method to verify the quality during the

process. The other test that the QC department does fpr the mercerizing process is size

P a g e | 44

test, width test, fabric whiteness and absorbency test. Thus test are done in every

thousand meters.

Mercerizing

Mercerizing:

Mercerizing is a process for increasing dye absorbency, strength and lusture of the

fabric by chemical treatment.

Process requirement:

Equipment used:

The GOLLER Mercerizing range machine.

Key accessories:

The necessary tools or accessories used for the mercerizing process are given bellow

Sewing machine, sewing thread, cylinder, Baum meter, A-frame, handles for

carriage, mixing tank, reserve tank, hand gloves, eye protecting gloves, clip/finger clip

etc.

The following fabrics go through the mercerizing process-

All cotton fabric. TC / CVC fabric. Bull-Twill fabric.

Materials / Chemicals used:

The materials and chemicals used for the GOLLER mercerizing range machine for all

cotton fabric TC or CVC fabric and Bull-Twill fabric are described bellow-

Chemicals / Material used Composition

Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) (28±2)º Be (Baume´)

267 gm/l (see note)

Mercerizing Oil (Mercirol QW2F) 3-4 gm/l

Green acid / Nurta acid (32%) 3-4 % of total water

Wetting agent 1-1.5 gm/l

Compressed air As required

Steam, water As required

Note: Density and concentration of NaOH at (25-40 ºC)

P a g e | 45

Baume (°Be) gmNaOH 100% (per 1 L NaOH

solution)

20 166.7

24 213.7

28 267.4

30 296.8

38 441.0

40 484.1

Fig: Mercerizing Machine.


Machine Set-up:

Describe bellow the machine set-up for mercerizing process-

Machine set up parameter

Actual parameter range Machine set value

Temperature of washing chamber

(90-95)°C 90°C

Temperature of NaOH chamber

(18-45) °C (40±5) °C

Fabric position Face or back Face Reserve chemical caustic 3-8 6.5-7 Reserve acid ( for all cotton

(6000-8000) L (4000-6000) L

TC or CVC fabric (200-300) kg 200 kg

P a g e | 46

Pressure Squeezer of impregnation 1 & 2

(2-4) bar (2-3.5) bar for all cotton TC/CVC 3 bar for Bull-Twill

Tension (% of fabric) 0-2 2-3 for all cotton & TC fabric

Padder pressure of washing

(1.5-5) bar (2-4) bar

Compensator Pressure (1.5-5) bar (2-4) bar


Item to be selected:

Machine parameter section are set Manpower is available. Chemicals are available. All accessories are available. Fabric stitch with tape fabric is done. Sewing thread is available.


Operator turns the machine (GOLLER Mercerizing range machine) on and set the

machine at the desired speed given bellow. Processing continues until a frame or a

batcher is complete or there arise any problem e.g. electrical, mechanical or utility.

Type of fabric Machine Speed (m/min) All cotton fabric 40-50 (108×58/20×20), (128×60/20×16) 50 (130×70/30×30), (133×72/40×40) 50-55 TC or CVC fabric 50-55 Bull-Twill fabric 35-40

P a g e | 47

Recovery

chamber

300kg

NaOH

700 l

water

Mixing

tank

(NaOH

solution +

Mercirol

QW)

Mixing tank

(cooling

chamber

temperature

bellow

20°C)

Fig: Chemical flow of mercerizing machine.

The quality of the product depends on various machines parameters the machine

speed pressure, temperature, pH, chemical level, tension etc. Operator must check these

parameters in every 10 min and also check the follow the chemical frequently through

the pump.



or litmus paper check. The operator also check the cosmetic defects like spots on the

fabric, fabric position, fabric sewing, selvage torn or any other abnormalities that can be

detected by naked eye.

Quality control sample test:

QC department follow the pick percentage test method to verify the quality during the

process. The other test that the QC department does for the mercerizing process is size

test, width test, fabric whiteness and absorbency test. Thus test are done in every

thousand meters.

IMP 1 IMP 2

P a g e | 48

Chapter-Four

DYEING SECTION

P a g e | 49

Reactive Dyeing

(CPB Process)

Solid dyeing with reactive dyes (Cold Pad Batch or CPB

process):

Solid dyeing with reactive dye by CPB process is a batch process in which the

fixation of dyes is carried out at low temperature (i.e. 25-28 °C) in the pressure of highly

alkaline medium and by providing execs time (i.e. more than 8 hours).

In CPB process the most important future is dyeing liquor and alkali solution

which is prepared separately in separate tank than it is pumped by a dosing pump into

the padding through with a color alkali ratio of 4:1. Fabric is impregnate with the liquor

relatively at a high speed and squeeze by means of padding mangle to remove the

surplus liquor and to live the dyeing liquor onto the fabric surface. After padding the

fabric is winded on the A-frame in wet form and on completion of one batch. It is

wrapped with the water proof material in order to prevent evaporation and stored for

more than 12 hours. Finally it is washed in normal way.

For storage batching stationed may be used where it should rotate at a rate of 5 to 7

revelation per minute.

Impregnate with dye and alkali squeeze of surplus dyeing liquor

Store wet

Wash off


Equipment:

Monforts-Pad-Batch

Key accessories:

P a g e | 50

A-frames, Jack for A-frame, over lock sewing machine, normal sewing machine, scissors,

mixer, bucket.

Material / Chemical used:

The material and chemical used for the solid dyeing with reactive dye (CPB process) are

describe bellow-

Fabric, reactive dyes, reduction inheritor, urea, alkali and additional chemicals and

axillaries for e.g. water softening agent, wetting agent, reduction inheritor (if require)

etc.

Sample of guide recipe:

Reactive dyes - a gm/l

Reduction inhibitor - b gm/l

Urea - c gm/l

Alkali-1 - d gm/l

Alkali-2 - e gm/l


Machine Set-up:

Describe bellow the machine setup for the solid dyed CPB process with reactive dyes-

Check List Set-up Range Set Value Level of dyeing bath (300-800) mm ws As per requirement Process selector knob/switch

Pad batch/ continues Pad batch

Padder pressure (center) (20-50) daN/cm (30-35) daN/cm Speed m/min (0-120) m/min ≤ 40 m/min


Parameter / Item Value / Checking Machine setup According to GLM of fabric Fabric availability According to the program schedule and

rout card having the test status ok Preparation of dyeing liquor Checking the preparation and also the

shifting of the liquor to the delivery tank Tap fabric Availability Batcher for winding of dyed fabric Availability Accessories / necessities / utilities Availability Man power Availability

P a g e | 51

Machine Clean condition Valves position Related valves are totally opened


Trial procedure:

After receiving the dye line and requisition form the color man is responsible to collect

and weight out the dyes and chemical and to prepare the color as describe in

preparation of dyeing liquor.

In trial normally (5-10) meter of actual fabric is used to check the shade before

starting production. Trial result can be checked by drawing sample of (6ʺ×4ʺ)

approximately and by giving it after treatment as follows:

Warping the fabric on a glass rod. Covering it by polythene paper to make it air tight. Witting for 16 min. Opening the polythene paper and hanging it on a beaker having a small quality of

water at a temperature of (53-60) °C in such a way that it should not touch the surface of water.

Placing the beaker in microwave woven for 4 min at a time of not more than 80°C.

Washing or soaping the fabric in pilot plant. Ironing and condition of fabric.

This can be compared with the ALD by using data color system. Based on the result

production officer is etherized to make necessary change in recipe in order to obtain the

least deviation during bulk production. (i.e. ∆E ≥ 1.0).

Note:

In case of repeated orders and short quantities production officer has the

authority to start the bulk production based on the result of the previous run.

Preparation of dyeing liquor:

Weigh out accurately the dyes and chemical as per recipe given by production officer.

Pour the dye into the stock color tank having some amount of water & water softening agent (If applicable) slowly and gradually and allowed it to stiffer for about 5-10 min. for pastel and light shade it is advisable to dissolved separately in a bucket or beaker before adding in the tank.

Extra care must be taken in dissolving that the dye having least g/l should be dissolved first and then in ascending order.

Add reduction inhibitor into the mixer which must be pre dissolved in hot water before addition.

P a g e | 52

Urea may be added directly into the stock tank or mixer along with the dyes but it depends on the amount.

Transfer the liquor into the stock tank (having water approximately ¼th of total liquor) by using a Bolton cloth (not applicable for dark shade).

Additional chemical and auxiliaries (e.g. wetting agent, antifoaming agent, sequestering agent etc.) may also be added before leveling of liquor as per instructed by responsible officer

Preparation of alkali:

o Weigh out accurately the alkali as per recipe given. o Dissolved the alkali in a bucket or mixer under constant stirring until the

un dissolved particles disappears. If two type of alkali are used than it should be dissolved separately.

o Transfer the alkali solution in baby tank and finally level the solution as per require

Disperse Dyeing

(PDB Process)

Solid dyeing with disperse dyes (Pad Dry Bake or PDB

process):

Solid dyeing with disperse dye by PDB process is a process in which the fixation of

dyes is carried out by means of using relatively high temperature dry air in process of

alkali along with the dyeing liquor after padding and drying operation.

In PDB process the fabric (in open with form) is impregnated with the dyeing

liquor in process of alkali along with the dyes. The fabric is then squeezed by means of

padding mangles to remove the surplus liquor and to level the dyeing into the surface of

the fabric which after passing through airing zone is subjected for drying.

Initially it dried by passing through the IR section in order to remove the sufficient

amount of moisture and to raise the temperature of surface of fabric. Complete drying is

carried out in hot flue by means of circulation of hot air. Final fixation is carried out at

relatively high temperature in curing thermex (i.e. 150°C-170°C).

Impregnate with dye and squeezing of surplus liquor

Partial dyeing of fabric in IR section

P a g e | 53

Complete drying of fabric in hot flue

Fixation of dye by means of relatively very high temperature with dry air


Equipment:

Monforts-Pad-Thermosol Dyeing Range (P-Th 1) and (P-Th 2)

Key accessories:


mixer, bucket.


The material and chemical used for the solid dyeing with disperse dye (PDB process)

are describe bellow-

Fabric, disperse dyes, antimigrating agent, dispersing agent, leveling agent, water

softening agent (if required), acid other axillaries e.g. wetting agent, antifoaming agent,

etc.


o Disperse dyes - a gm/l o Dispersing agent - b gm/l o Antimigrating agent - c gm/l o Acid - d gm/l


Machine Set-up:

Describe bellow the machine setup for the solid dyed PDB process with reactive dyes-

Check List Set-up Range Set Value Level of dyeing bath (0-500) % for P-Th 1

manual for P-Th 2 As per requirement

Process selector knob or switch

Pad batch/ continues Continues

Speed variable knob VTG- (0-100) % velocity%, As per requirement

P a g e | 54

1 meterage% Speed variable knob VTG-2

(0-100) % velocity%, meterage%

As per requirement

IR section 1: Speed (0-100) m/min% As per requirement Intensity (in %) (20-100) P% As per described in

parameter sheet IR section 2: Speed (0-100) m/min% As per described in

parameter sheet Intensity (in %) (20-100) P% As per described in

parameter sheet Padder pressure (center bar)

(0-4) bar As per described in parameter sheet

Speed m/min (0-120) m/min As per described in parameter sheet

Temperature of thermex no-1

(0-250)°C As per described in parameter sheet





Blower fan setting for thermex no-3

Low / High As per described in parameter sheet

Position of main damper thermex no-1

(0-6) division 3/3


(0-6) division 3/3


(0-6) division 6/6

Position of exhaust damper thermex no-1

(0-6) division 3/3

Position of exhaust damper thermex no-2

(0-6) division 6/6

Position of exhaust damper thermex no3

(0-6) division As per requirement

Position of air flow knob of thermex no-1

±8 division 0


±8 division 0


±8 division 0

Pneumatic pressure of guiders

(0-10) bar Should be as minimum as possible

Pneumatic pressure of compensator

(0-6) bar Should be adjusted during running as per requirement

Position of compensator Load / Relive Should be adjusted during running as per requirement

P a g e | 55

Gas pressure for IR section

(0-40) m/bar Minimum 30 m/bar

Gas pressure for burners (0-250) m/bar Minimum 50 m/bar Position of p/v gear box for traction device & windows

(0-6) division Should be adjusted during running

Air pressure (0-10) bar (4-6)bar


Parameter / Item Value / Checking Machine setup According to GLM of fabric Fabric availability According to the program schedule and

rout card having the test status ok Preparation of dyeing liquor Checking the preparation and also the

shifting of the liquor to the delivery tank Tap fabric Availability Batcher for winding of dyed fabric Availability Accessories / necessities / utilities Availability Man power Availability Machine Clean condition Valves position Related valves are totally opened


o Weigh out accurately the dye and chemical as per recipe given. o Add dispersing and leveling agent and water softening agent (if

applicable) into the mixer having some amount of water at room temperature at constant stirring.

o Poor the dye into the mixer slowly and gradually allowed it to stir for about 5-10 minute for pastels and light shade. It is advisable to dissolve the dye separately in a bucket or beaker before adding into the mixer. Extra care must be taking in dissolving that the dyes having least g/l should be dissolving first and than in ascending order.

o Transfer the liquor into the stock tank (having water approximately 1/4th of total liquor) by using a Bolton cloth (not applicable for dark shades).

o Add the antimigrating agent (advantageous if pre dissolved) into the mixer or directly into the stock tank under constant stirring.

o Add the acid if required. o Additional chemical and auxiliaries (for e.g. wetting agent, antifoaming

agent, sequestering agent etc) may also be added before leveling of liquor as per instructed by responsible officer.

Operation procedure for bulk production:

P a g e | 56

o Thread up the machine according to the requirement under proper tension by using a tap fabric.

o Set the parameter according to the parameter chart as per requirement. o Switch on the exhaust fan, circulation fan or blower and burner of

thermex respectively. o Switch on the exhaust fan, blower and lognition of IR-section respectively. o Switch on all section drives through which the fabric is threaded up. o Switch on the padder pressure. o Switch on to keep the padding trough in up position. o Switch on the level controller of padding trough. o Check all parameters have reached to the setting values. o Switch on the Monfort Pad Thermosol Dyeing Range for production and

sets the machine at desired speed.

Product Quality Checked:

Cosmetic defect:

During production operator responsible to check the cosmetic defect like spots, coloring

spots, crease mark, weaving faults, color flies, curled selvedge or any other abnormalitic

that can be detected with naked eyes and also responsible to mention that’s defect in

the process rout card.

Shade checking:

During the production the operator draws a sample after each (500-1000) at

the stitching joints (Expect for peach fabric at least 2-3 meter away from the stitching

joint) and checked the shade after treatment as per process requirement listed bellow:

Types of dyes Process After treatment Disperse dye PDB process After carbonization on

pilot plant Production officer compare the sample shade with the approved lab dip (ALD)

after the after treatment process. This can be done either by using spectrophotometer

or physically with naked eyes as per customer required illumination.

Carbonization:

Carbonization is a process in which one component of blended fabric (normally

cotton part) is dissolved by using a solvent in order to check the individual property of

other component.

In practice a small washes wet piece of blended is dipped in a solution of sulfuric

acid having a concentration of (80:20) and temperature ≥ 15°c is used to dissolve the

cotton portion of PC / CVC blended fabric which is helped in studding the actual shade

P a g e | 57

of polyester portion after completion of polyester dyeing with disperse dyes or one bath

(Disperse / Reactive) dyeing.

Listing (Shade variation):

1. Production operator take 20 cm dyed fabric after first 200 meter and then after every 500 meter.

2. Mention left side and right side properly. 3. Divided into 5 parts and give number 1 to 5 from left to right.

1 2 3 4 5

4. Stitch as per number wise.

1 3 5 2 4

5. Production office check if their exist any shade variation and take the following corrective measure where necessary:

The padder has a facility to vary the pickup either by applying and reducing the

pressure at three different position i.e. left, center and right.

During production the side should be compare with center if found darker than it

could be controlled by increasing the pressure of the relative side and vice versa.

QC sample test:

Shade check, listing, wash fastness, water fastness and rubbing test are done by QC.

One Bath Dyeing Process

One bath solid dyeing process (Disperse/Reactive):

Solid dyeing of T/C with Disperse / Reactive dyes by Pad-Dry-Brake process is a process

in which the fixation of both dye is carried out by means of using reactively high

temperature dry air after padding and drying process.

In one bath solid dyeing process of T/C fabric with Disperse / Reactive dyes the

fabric (in open with form) is impregnated with the dyeing liquor in presence of alkali

and dispersing agent along with the dyes. The fabric is then squeezed by means of

P a g e | 58

padding mangle to remove the surplus liquor and to level the dyeing liquor into the

surface of the fabric which after passing through the airing zone is subjected for drying.

Initially it is dried by passing through the IR section in order to remove the

sufficient amount of moisture and to raise the temperature of surface of fabric.

Complete drying is carried in hot flue by means of circulation of hot air.

Final fixation is carried out at relatively high temperature in curing thermex






Equipment:

Monforts-Pad-Thermosol Dyeing Range.

Key accessories:

A-frames, Jack for A-frame, Over lock sewing machine, normal sewing machine,

scissors, mixer, bucket.


The material and chemical used for one bath solid dyeing process are describe

bellow-

Fabric, disperse dyes, reactive dyes, reduction inheritor, antimigrating agent, urea,

alkali, dispersing agent, leveling agent, wetting agent, antifoaming agent, sequestering

agent etc.


o Disperse dyes - a gm/l

P a g e | 59

o Reactive dyes - b gm/l o Wetting agent - c gm/l o Antimigrating agent - d gm/l o Urea - e gm/l o Alkali - f gm/l o Salt - g gm/l o Dispersing agent - h gm/l


Trial procedure:

After receiving the dye line and requisition form the color man is responsible to collect

and weight out the dyes and chemical and to prepare the color as describe in


First of all a 10 meters trial is conducted after adjusting it confirmation is done. In

confirmation normally (50-300) meter of actual fabric is used to check the shade after

trialing effect (change in shade comes during running). An additional washed tap may

also be used along with the actual fabric in order to get the actual result after trialing.

At the completion of a trial operator is responsible to do the CPS (After treatment)

either in pilot plant or on pad steam dyeing machine, production officer compare the

trial result with the ALD in shade continuity card in data color system by using

particular type of illumination (As per the requirement of customer) based on the

result. Production officer is authorized to make necessaries change in recipe in order to

obtain the lest distribution during bulk production.

Note:

In case of repeated orders and short quantities production officer has the authority to start the bulk production based on the result of the previous run.

Polyester dyeing with disperse dye also need to trial as the bulk production result is almost same as per bulk verification result.


o Weigh out accurately the dye and chemical as per recipe given. o Add dispersing and leveling agent and water softening agent (if applicable)

into the mixer having some amount of water at room temperature at constant stirring.

o Poor the disperse dyes into the color tank slowly and gradually allowed it to stir for about 5-10 minute for pastels and light shade. It is advisable to dissolve the dye separately in a bucket or beaker before adding into the

P a g e | 60

mixer. Extra care must be taking in dissolving that the dyes having least g/l should be dissolving first and then in ascending order.

o Add reactive dyes either directly or after dissolving in a bucket to the mixer under constant stirring.

o Add urea either directly into the stock tank or into the mixer along with the dyes depend upon the amount.

o Add the migrating inhibitor or anti migrating agent either directly into the stock tank or into the mixer (Advantageous if pre dissolved).

o Transfer the liquor into the stock tank (having water approximately 1/4th of total liquor) by using a Bolton cloth (not applicable for dark shades).

o Add pre dissolved in last before level the liquor. o Additional chemical and auxiliaries (for e.g. wetting agent, antifoaming

agent, sequestering agent etc) may also be added before leveling of liquor as per instructed by responsible officer.







Cosmetic defect:

During production operator responsible to check the cosmetic defect like spots,

coloring spots, crease mark, weaving faults, color flies, curled selvedge or any other

abnormalitic that can be detected with naked eyes and also responsible to mention

that’s defect in the process rout card.

Shade checking:



joint) and checked the shade after treatment as per process requirement listed below:

P a g e | 61

Types of dyes Process After treatment Disperse / Reactive dyes RTN (i.e. PDB process) After soaping on pilot

plant Disperse / Reactive dyes PDB – CPS process After CPS and

carbonization on pilot plan

Production officer compare the sample shade with the approved lab dip (ALD)



Carbonization:

Carbonization is a process in which one component of blended fabric (normally cotton

part) is dissolved by using a solvent in order to check the individual property of other

component.

In practice a small washes wet piece of blended is dipped in a solution of sulfuric

acid having a concentration of (80:20) and temperature ≥ 15°c is used to dissolve the

cotton portion of PC / CVC blended fabric which is helped in studding the actual shade

of polyester portion after completion of polyester dyeing with disperse dyes or one bath

(Disperse / Reactive) dyeing.

Listing:



1 2 3 4 5


1 3 5 2 4




P a g e | 62



Pigment Dyeing

Solid dyeing with pigment dyeing:

Solid dyeing of cotton and blended fabric with pigment is a surface phenomenon in

which the pigment are bond the fiber in the presence of an adhesive known as binder,

usually fixation is carried out by means of using high temperature dry air after padding

and drying operation.

In dyeing of cotton fabric with pigment the fabric (in open width form) is

impregnated with the dyeing liquor in presence of binder along with the pigment. This

is then squeeze by means of padding mangles to remove the surplus liquor and to level

the dyeing liquor onto the surface of the fabric, which after passing through the airing

zone is subjected for drying.

Initially fabric is dried by passing through the IR section in order to remove the

maximum amount of moisture and to raise the temperature of surface of fabric.

Complete drying is carried out in hot flue by means of circulation of hot air

Final fixation is carried out at relatively high temperature in curing thermex (i.e.

150°C-170°C).






Equipment:

Monforts-Pad-Thermosol Dyeing Range (P-Th 1) and (P-Th 2)

P a g e | 63

Key accessories:

A-frames, Jack for A-frame, Over lock sewing machine, normal sewing machine, scissors,

mixer, bucket.


The material and chemical used for the solid dyeing with pigment are describe bellow-

Fabric, pigment, binder, antimigrating agent, wetting agent, antifoaming agent etc.


o Pigment - a gm/l

o Binder - b gm/l o Antimigrating agent - c gm/l o Wetting agent - d gm/l o Anti Striking agent - e gm/l o Antifoaming agent - f gm/l


Trial procedure:

After receiving the dye line and requisition form the color man is responsible to

collect and weight out the dyes and chemical and to prepare the color as describe in


First of all a 10 meters trial is conducted after adjusting it confirmation is done. In

confirmation normally (50-300) meter of actual fabric is used to check the shade after

trialing effect (change in shade comes during running). An additional washed tap may

also be used along with the actual fabric in order to get the actual result after trialing.

At the completion of a trial operator is responsible to do the CPS (After treatment)

either in pilot plant or on pad steam dyeing machine, production officer compare the

trial result with the ALD in shade continuity card in data color system by using

particular type of illumination (As per the requirement of customer) based on the

result. Production officer is authorized to make necessaries change in recipe in order to

obtain the lest distribution during bulk production.

Note:

o In case of repeated orders and short quantities production officer has the authority to start the bulk production based on the result of the previous run.

P a g e | 64

o For darker shade normally double padding process is used due to heavy gm/l of pigments so checking of shade is not required during single padding operation which is normally less than half of total gm/l. Production officer should be careful during double padding process about shade and list. Operation procedure for double padding process will be the same as the single padding process.


o Weigh out accurately the dyes and chemical as per recipe given by production officer.

o Pour the pigment into the color tank by using bottom cloth having same amount of water at room temperature under constant stirring.

o Add the antimigrating agent (advantageous if pre dissolved) into the mixer or directly into the stock tank under constant stirring.

o Then add binder by filtering into color tank at constant stirring.

o Additional chemical and auxiliaries (e.g. wetting agent, antifoaming agent, sequestering agent etc.) may also be added before leveling of liquor as per instructed by responsible officer







Cosmetic defect: During production operator responsible to check the

cosmetic defect like spots, coloring spots, crease mark, weaving faults, color flies, curled

selvedge or any other abnormalitic that can be detected with naked eyes and also

responsible to mention that’s defect in the process rout card.

P a g e | 65

Shade checking:



joint) and checked the shade after treatment as per process requirement listed below:

Types of dyes Process After treatment Pigment PDB process Directly (no need of after treatment

except in double padding process)

Production officer compare the sample shade with the approved lab dip (ALD) after the

after treatment process. This can be done either by using spectrophotometer or

physically with naked eyes as per customer required illumination.

For darker shade normally double padding process is used due to heavy gm/l of

pigments so checking of shade is not required during single padding operation which is

normally less than half of total gm/l. Production officer should be careful during double

padding process about shade and list. Operation procedure for double padding process

will be the same as the single padding process.

Listing:



1 2 3 4 5

4. Stitch as per number wise. 1 3 5 2 4


The padder has a facility to vary the pick up either by applying and reducing the




QC sample test:Quality control does shade check and listing test during

operation. QC also checks the parameter.

P a g e | 66

Dyeing Process in Pad-Steam

Machine

Key accessories:


mixer, bucket


The material and chemical used for the solid dyeing with chemical pad-steam process

are describe bellow-

Steam, compressed air, gas, detergent reducing agent, alkali, acid, ionic or non

ionic salt, reduction inhibitor etc.

Fig: Chemical pad steam machine.

P a g e | 67

Operation procedure:

Preparation of chemical:

Recipe:

o Gluberies salt 250 g/l

o Reduction inhibitor 5-10 g/l

o Caustic soda 6-10 g/l

o Soda ash 10-20 g/l

1. Weigh out the chemical as per recipe given by production officer. 2. Add Gluberies salt in stock tank gradually having ½ of liquor of total

requirement at (40-30) °C under constant stirring. 3. Add the pre dissolved reduction inhibitor, caustic flask and soda ash (if

required) separately. 4. Make up the level up to desire amount. 5. Stir well for about 15-20 min before use.

Preparation of chemical for R/C & striping process:

Recipe:

o Sodium hydrosulfite (30-50) g/l

o Caustic flasks (15-25) g/l

1. Weigh out the chemical as per recipe given by production officer. 2. Add pre dissolved caustic flask in stock tank having at least ½ of water of total

requirement at room temperature. 3. Add sodium hydrosulfite directly but gradually in stock tank under constant

stirring at room temperature. 4. Make up the level up to desired amount.

Preparation of chemical for washing and Definishing:

Recipe:

Chemical For washing tank For stock tank Detergent (1-3) g/l (5-15) g/l Soda ash (if require) (5-10) g/l (25-50) g/l

1. Weigh out the chemical as per recipe given by production officer.

P a g e | 68

2. Detergent and soda ash can be dissolved very easily in sufficient amount if water at normal temperature because of excellent solubility.

3.

Preparation of chemical for vat development process:

Recipe:

o Sodium hydrosulfite 50 g/l

o Caustic flask 25 g/l

o Glubers salt 13 g/l

o Dispersing agent 3 g/l

1. Weigh out the chemical as per recipe given by production officer. 2. Add the glubers salt and dispersing agent in stock tank gradually having ½ of

liquor of total requirement under constant stirring. 3. Add the pieces of ice or use chilled water in order to keep the temperature of

liquor less than 15 °C. 4. Add the pre dissolved dispersing agent and caustic flask in stock tank separately. 5. Make up the level up to desired amount. 6. Add sodium hydrosulfite into the stock tank just before stirring it into the

delivery tank.

For washing section recipe:

For washing tank For washing tank For W/A-2

Hydrogen peroxide

3 g/l 15 g/l

Acidic acid 5 g/l 25 g/l for W/A-4

Detergent 2 g/l 10 g/l Soda ash 5 g/l 25 g/l


o Thread up the machine as per process requirement. o Stitch the first end of fabric with trial of tap fabric. o Switch on the entire sector switch for main drive through which the fabric is

threaded up. o Switch on the entire sector switches for torque motors of each main drive. o Set the parameter of the machine ad per process requirement. o Checked all the parameters reached to their setting value.

o Press the shutdown switch in order to keep the padder in their squeezing

position and wait till a green indication appears at panel for “Ready”. o Switch on the Goller-pad-steam dyeing range for production and set the machine

at desired speed.

P a g e | 69


Cosmetic defect:

During production operator responsible to check the cosmetic defect like spots, coloring

spots, crease mark, weaving faults, color flies, curled selvedge or any other abnormalitic

that can be detected with naked eyes and also responsible to mention that’s defect in

the process rout card.

Shade checking:

During the production the operator draws a sample after each (500-1000) at the

stitching joints (Expect for peach fabric at least 2-3 meter away from the stitching joint)

and checked the shade after treatment as per process requirement.

Production officer compare the sample shade with the approved lab dip (ALD)



Listing:



1 2 3 4 5


1 3 5 2 4 5. Production office check if their exist any shade variation and take the following

corrective measure where necessary:





QC sample test: Quality control does shade check and listing test during

operation. QC also checks the parameter.

P a g e | 70

Chapter-Five

FINISHING SECTION

P a g e | 71

FINISHING IN STENTER MACHINE

Finishing:

A fabric finishing process is a process for providing specific quality to the fabric that is

required by the customer .i.e. (soft, wrinkle free etc ).

Refinishing and topping:

Refinishing and topping is a repetitive finishing process to cotton fabric, TC fabric and

yarn dyed fabric. To minimize the dyeing as per customer swatch and if necessary

some pigment dyes are used for the purpose.


Equipment:

MONFORTS STENTER MACHINE I & II.

Key accessories:

Two electronic measuring balance, two breakers, pH paper (3-12), sewing

machine, pinning brush.

Materials and chemicals used:

The materials and chemicals used in the stenter machine for the TC fabric, 100%

cotton, and twill fabric finishing as well as re-finishing process are described below. A

sequence of chemical pouring is used in the wrinkle free finished fabric to avoid

unwanted chemical reaction.

Name of the fabric Chemicals and materials used (the chemical sequence no is given in the left of wrinkle free finished fabric)

1) White fabric (soft) Cotton OBA (optical brightening agent) Polyester cotton OBA Softener Tinting agent

2) White fabric (wrinkle free and Easy care)

l. Softener ll. cotton OBA lll. Polyester cotton OBA lV. pH adjusted with CH3COOH. V. resin depends on fabric weight .i.e 110 g/l is recognized as light ( 110-300) g/l is medium fabric and (330-500) g/l is heavy fabric.

P a g e | 72

Vl. Wetting agent (when chemical absorbency is poor) Vll. Tinting agent. Vlll. Additives. lX. Catalyst (20-30)% of resin

3) Colored fabric (soft)

Softener Dye fixer (it is used according to color fastness) pH adjusted with acetic acid Anti foam for 100% cotton and twill fabric (for deep shade)

4) Colored fabric (Wrinkle free)

L Softener ll. Resin lll. Wetting agent (when chemical absorbency is poor) lV. pH adjusted with acetic acid V. Dye fixer Vll. Catalyst 25-30% or resin

5) Yarn dyed (soft) Softener Acetic acid for pH adjustment OBA as per requirement

6) Yarn dyed (ultra soft)

Softener Acetic acid for pH adjustment OBA as per requirement

7) Yarn dyed (wrinkle free & easy care)

l. Softener/Catalyst ll. Additive lll. Resin lV. Wetting agent V. OBA (if required) Vl. pH adjusted with acetic acid Vll. Catalyst 25-33% or resin

8) Colored fabric (hard finish & shiny finish)

Softening agent Wetting agent Additive Resin Catalyst Acetic acid OBA

9) Water repellent Hydrophobic agent Stiffing agent Softener Acetic acid

Safety:

o During production never touch any rotating or movable part or machine.

o Never mix two or more chemical in their concentration.

o Follow all the safety instructions mentioned form in the machine.

P a g e | 73

o Before entering into thermex keep the blower and burner “off “.

o Always use the fiber clips to avoid selvedge folding.

o Do not touch pins bar/clip bar.

o Do not open the window of the gas burner during production.


Operation procedure for white fabric finishing (Soft)

The pilot plant (fabric) provides customer approved swatch with recipe of the

white fabric to the finishing department where as preparation department provides

the bleached fabric. The finishing procedure begin with the calculation of solution a

amount for a particular fabric the formula as below :

Solution amount = fabric weight (kg) X fabric length (m) X pick up % +

through content + 3% wastage

HERE

Pick up % = 60% - 70% ( for white fabric)

= 50% - 55% ( for colored fabric)

Through content is 80 L solution required in the through wastage is 3% of

solution.

The trial process fast start with same fabric of 1 m and required chemical solution.

Chemical are measured by using balance and takes in the bucket separately. Then

tinting agent is measure and taken into a breaker to dilute with hot water. Other

chemical are dilute with hot water on normal water based upon the reference of

the chemical literature book of the chemical company.

Mixing tank is filled up with 50% of water to the required solution level (

100L) and the chemical are poured separately into the tank through a piece of

filter cloth. A sequence is maintained for chemical pouring into the mixing tank for

the wrinkle free finished fabric so the fabric is not damaged by the chemical

solution. Then the solution is measured to ensure the 100 L level by using a still

rolled and water is added if necessary. Chemical are stirred for five minutes by the

fan in the mixing tank and then sets to the upper tank.

The upper tank sets the solution to the trough machine which has a value at the

level of 80 L the value close automatically. At that specific level and opens when

the solution level goes lower than 80 L.

The operation fixes the one m of sample fabric on the pins on the endless chain at

the feed side starts the machine to develop it. When the trial fabric is developed it

is usually impacted with the approved sample for the parameters ( softness,

hardness, stiffness, shade match etc ) ordered by customer. Then a piece of fabric

P a g e | 74

( Max “14 X 14” ) is cut from the trial fabric to scan the shade in the data color of

pilot plant (Lab ). The shade scan is necessary to fixed out any deviation in the

fabric and also to take corrective action to overcome these fault / deviation.

If the trial fabric matches with the customer approved sample then trial ends and

production department decide to go for bulk production. After every 1000 m. 1 m

sample is sent to the QC for QC tests. If the trial does not match then the recipe,

temperature or the machine speed is adjusted from the reference of parameter

register, and the shade scanning report and the same trial process repeat until it

match with the customer approved sample. For the bulk production chemical

solution is prepared from the formula mentioned above and poured in the mixing

tank of one bath at a time capacity of each bath is 400 L.

Operation procedure for white fabric finishing (Soft)

The operation procedure of white fabric (wrinkle free ) finishing is

same as white fabric soft finishing process. Except the chemical

composition. Some new chemical (Resin, Catalyst, Wetting Agent,

Acetic Acid and Additives ) are added here.

Operation procedure for colored fabric finishing (Soft)

Planning department provides the customer approved swatch and

the dyeing department the fabric to the finishing department then

a recipe is prepared base on the reference of the chemical

literature book of the chemical company , program register and

data color of pilot plant (Lab).

The process starts from the calculation of solution amount and is

same as white fabric (soft) finishing process. The only difference

here is the pick up % which is (47-50) % and the chemical stirring

in the mixing tank which is (2-3) minute.

Operation procedure for colored fabric finishing (wrinkle free)

The operation procedure of colored fabric wrinkle free finishing is

same as colored fabric soft finishing process except the chemical

composition.

Some new chemical (Resin, Catalyst, Wetting agent and Acetic

Acid) are added here.

P a g e | 75


In case of TC fabric, 100% cotton and twill fabric. The operator checks the shade in

naked eyes in the stenter machine. If any deviation is found then he informs the

responsible shift officer who take the necessary action to overcome the problem. If the

officer then the departmental head production is informed and finally he give the

decision. Shade checking is not applicable for the sanforizing process.

Fault check:

The operator check the weaving faults (.i.e. Double yarn, Warp and Weft missing,

yarn contamination etc.) , spinning faults ( .i.e. Dye resist mark, Stop mark, Bend mark,

Chemical spot, Dropping mark, Listing, Torn and Hole, Fabric structure etc.).

During process when minor fault occur within 30 m of fabric ( while running about

300-500 m of fabric) which is not resulted from previous process and also not

recorded on the process route card, the necessary actions to be taken are as follows:

o Check the feed side batcher to make sure that thus fault did not occur

from previous process.

o Stop the machine to identify whether thus faults are occurring due to

machine faults or the faults are due to the chemical (checks cleanliness

of machine parameters and chemical composition).

o If there is any spot on the fabric then it indicate that the sequence of the

chemical pouring in the mixing tank for the wrinkle free finished fabrics

not correct and hence the chemical reaction has damage the fabric.

For this the chemicals have to be mixed up in the mixing tank following the proper

sequence (reference are mentioned in the chemical composition for wrinkle free

finished fabric).

Width check:

measure fabric with by using a measuring tape. Compares with the required

finished width that is mentioned in process route card, in case of wrinkle free yarn

dyed width checking is 2cm less than the normal fabric finish fabric width.

QC sample test:

1m sample fabric is cut from each batch (which represent the bulk) and sent to the

QC lab for test. The shade continuity card is checked with the sample for the QC sample

test. QC department does the physical test , chemical test and analysis the test and notes

the result in fabric test result for details of QC test. During scanning of twill fabric data

P a g e | 76

color the sample must be set vertically warp wise. Refer to specification for details of

the methods of sample scanning.

Sanforizig:

Sanforizing is a mechanical treatment of fabric (sample given cotton and CVC) in the

sanforizing for shrinkage of soft fabric (sample given cotton and CVC fabric etc) and

transforming the fabric into soft, glossy and smooth fabric for end use.


Equipment:

MONFORTS SANFORIZING MACHINE

Key accessories:

The necessaries tools/accessories used for the sanforizing machine are as follows

:

Sewing machine, measuring tape, white papers.

P a g e | 77

Fig:Sanforizing Machine.

Material/chemical used:

N/A

Safety measure:




Fig: Process flow diagram of sanforizing machine.

P a g e | 78

Production procedure

Operation staff In charge finishing

Assistant manager

Textile technologist

Production officer

Finishing operator

Assistant finishing operator

Helpers

Learners

Machine set up:

Described below with the machine set up for cotton and CVC fabric is:

Check list Set up range Set value

Steam pressure for damping roller (0-5) bar 2.5 bar

Water pressure for spraying before

damping roller

(0-5) bar 4.5 bar

Over feed (0-10) bar 5% as required loose

Rubber belt pressure (0-18) bar 8-12 bar

Rate of water spraying on rubber belt As required

Steam pressure for rubber belt (0-3) bar 0-2 bar less than two

Rubber belt tension (0-10) bar Depends on belt

thickness

Air pressure for felt belt (0-6) bar 4.5 bar

Steam pressure for felt belt (0-3) bar 2-3 bar

Pressure for winding batcher (0-10) bar 0-4 bar


o After completion of the checklist before starting the sanforizing process

(for the cotton and CVC) the operator gets approval from the production

officer.

o The operator sets the feed side batcher and check the shrinkage of the

fabric by a special type of scale and the fabric is guided up to the damper.

The fabric process through the friction and heat of the rubber belt region

and also through the felt calendar region of the sanforizing machine.

o The empty batcher is set to the rare end of the rotation station.

o During the process the operator stop the machine to check the shrinkage

of the fabric at the rare end. If the shrinkage setting is all right then the

bulk production continuous and if there is any deviation in the shrinkage

setting then the setting pressure and roller pressure are adjusted.

P a g e | 79

o For wrinkle free fabric the shrinkage is controlled by resin finishing and

then passed through the calendar region for getting soft, glossy and

smooth finishes quality as a final product.

o The quality of the fabric depends on various parameters discussed in the

checklist. The operator must check these parameters carefully during the

process to avoid any defects.


In case of TC fabric , 100% cotton and twill fabric. The operator check the shade in

naked eyes in the sanforizing machine. If any deviation is found then he inform the

responsible shift officer who take the necessary action to overcome the problem. If the

officer then the departmental head production is informed and finally he give the


Fault check:

The operator check the weaving faults (.i.e. Double yarn, Warp and Weft

missing, yarn contamination etc.) , spinning faults ( .i.e. Dye resist mark, Stop mark,

Bend mark, Chemical spot, Dropping mark, Listing, Torn and Hole, Fabric structure

etc.).




o Check the feed side batcher to make sure that thus fault did not occur from

previous process.

o Stop the machine to identify whether thus faults are occurring due to machine

faults or the faults are due to the chemical (checks cleanliness of machine

parameters and chemical composition).

o If there is any spot on the fabric then it indicate that the sequence of the chemical

pouring in the mixing tank for the wrinkle free finished fabrics not correct and

hence the chemical reaction has damage the fabric.



finished fabric).

Width check:

Measure fabric by using a measuring tape. Compares with the required finished

width that is mentioned in process route card, in case of wrinkle free yarn dyed width

checking is 2cm less than the normal fabric finish fabric width.

P a g e | 80

Design the fabric bow check for yarn dyed fabric-

In the delivery side the operator checks the design and bow, adjust the machine

for checking stripe by straightening the weft of the fabric

QC sample test-

1m sample fabric is cut from each batch (which represent the bulk) and sent to

the QC lab for test. The shade continuity card is checked with the sample for the

QC sample test. QC department does the physical test , chemical test and analysis

the test and notes the result in fabric test result for details of QC test. During

scanning of twill fabric data color machine the sample must be set vertically

warpwise. Refer to specification for details of the methods of sample scanning.

Heat setting and stretching process in stenter machine

Heat setting and stretching:

Heat setting is a mechanical process before dying of TC+CVC fabric to give

dimensional stability and shrinkage control. Whereas stretching is also a

mechanical process before dying of all cotton fabric to remove crease marks and to

get required width for next process.


Equipment:

MONFORTS STENTER MACHINE

Key accessories:

The necessaries tools/accessories used for the stenter machine are as follows

:


Material and chemical used:

Sometimes wetting agent (.e.g. mixture of surface active compound) are used as

chemical for the heat setting and stretching process.

Safety measure:


P a g e | 81



o Before entering into thermex keep the blower and burner “off “.

o Always use the fiber clips to avoid selvedge folding.

o Do not touch pins bar/clip bar.

o Do not open the window of the gas burner during production.

Fig: Heat settings in Stenter Machine.

Production procedure:

Operation staff

o In charge finishing

o Assistant manager

o Textile technologist

o Production officer

o Finishing operator

o Assistant finishing operator

o Helpers

o Learners

Machine setup:

Described below is the machine set up for the stenter machine for TC fabric, Twill

fabric, 100% cotton fabric, cotton poplin and other light fabric finishing, re-finishing

process for white and colored fabric.

Checklist Set-up range Set value Mangle pressure (2-6) bar Depends on pick up

P a g e | 82

Temperature setting (60-250)°C According to the shade (reference are taken from production register)

Temperature (for re-finishing)

(150-180)°C According to the shade (reference are taken from production register

Over feed (0-18)% As required Blower fan setting for solid dyed fabric

Low and high High

Blower fan setting for yarn dyed fabric

Low and high High

Exhaust fan setting Auto /manual Manual Width of machine chain setting

(70-80)cm 1. Described with (+8)cm in case of pin

2. Described with (+6)cm in case of clip

Pleva setting parameter for TC”g” for cotton “O”

(4.5-5.5) % As required

Fabric pneumatic dyed bar pressure

(0-2) bar 0.5 bar

Machine pins/clips N/A Pins (for light fabric) Clips (for heavy fabric)

Burner gas pressure 20 ml (fixed) 20 ml Machine speed (7-120) m/min m/min

light shade - 40-100 dark shade - 40-100 light/soft finished fabric

- 40-100 Twill fabric - 40-70 Wrinkle free fabric – 20-25

Bianco Program no (1-10) Depends on fabric structure

Checklist before production:

Parameters / Items Value / checking Machine setup a) Threading of machine as per process

requirement. b) Parameters set up should be as per

process requirement. Fabric availability According to program schedule and the route

card having test status “OK” Preparation of chemicals Checking of preparation and also the shifting of

liquor to the delivery tanks. Tape fabric Availability Batches for winding Availability Accessories, necessities and utilities

Availability

Machine Clean condition.

P a g e | 83

Manpower Availability


1) For heat setting

First fabric passes through various tension roller , draw guide roller, through (fill

water), padder, bianco, pinning shoes, pins and brushes. The fabric are entered

into drying and thermosol unit by pins track. Pins track transfers fabric in

delivery unit and wrapped on batcher. Mainly heat setting occurs in the area of

thermosoling unit. To get better heat setting moreover heat applied on fabric. In

case of poor absorbency some wetting agent are in through.

2) For stretching

First fabric passes through various draw rollers, tension rollers, guide rollers,

trough(fill water), padder , bianco. Then fabric are entire into drying chamber by

clips track. Clips truck carries the fabric in delivery unit and wrapped on batcher.

Fabric are stretched by clips both warp and weft way. Drying chamber used for

dryed fabric. In case of poor absorbency some wetting agent are used in through

with mixing water.

Preparation of chemical for heat setting and stretching (if required):

Only (1-2) g/l wetting is added in 400 l solution in the mixing tank of the

machine.


In case of TC fabric , 100% cotton and twill fabric. The operator check the shade in

naked eyes in the stenter machine. If any deviation is found then he inform the

responsible shift officer who take the necessary action to overcome the problem. If

the officer then the departmental head production is informed and finally he give the


Fault check:




During process when minor fault occur within 30 m of fabric ( while running about 300-

500 m of fabric) which is not resulted from previous process and also not recorded on

the process route card, the necessary actions to be taken are as follows:

P a g e | 84


previous process.




o If there is any spot on the fabric then it indicate that the sequence of the chemical

pouring in the mixing tank for the wrinkle free finished fabrics not correct and

hence the chemical reaction has damage the fabric.

o For this the chemicals have to be mixed up in the mixing tank following the

proper sequence (reference are mentioned in the chemical composition for

wrinkle free finished fabric).

o width check

measure fabric with by using a measuring tape. Compares with the required finished


checking is 2cm less than the normal fabric finish fabric width

o Design and fabric bow check

In the delivery side the operator check the design and bow, adjust the machine for

checking the stripe by straightening the weft of the fabric.

o Pin setting check (for TC and yarn dyed fabric)

Checks all the delivery side if the schedule of fabric is set in pins correctly.

o Clips checking (for 100% cotton and twill fabric)

Check the feeding side .i.e. setting of fabric on the clips

QC sample check:

1m sample fabric is cut from each batch (which represent the bulk) and sent to

the QC lab for test. The shade continuity card is checked with the sample for the QC

sample test. QC department does the physical test , chemical test and analysis the

test and notes the result in fabric test result for details of QC test. During scanning of

twill fabric datacolor machine the sample must be set vertically warp wise. Refer to

specification for details of the methods of sample scanning.

P a g e | 85

Finishing process in calendaring

machine

Calendaring process:

In fabric finishing process, calendar plays an important roll in achieving effect like

smoothing, luster effects. In this process fabric is passed through a machine in which

heavy roller (bowis) rotate in contact under mechanical or hydraulic pressure.

Four type of calendaring are done here

a) Chintz calendar (smoothing effect with paper roll and steel roll)

b) Ironing (soft, smoothing and glazing effect with steel roll)

c) Calendaring for smooth surface (mating effects with cotton)

d) Calendaring (soft and smoothing effect with cotton roll, paper roll and steel roll)


Equipment:

THE RAMISH CALENDERING MACHINE

Key accessories:

The necessaries tools/accessories used for the stenter machine are as follows:


Material and chemical used:

Sometimes wetting agent (.e.g. mixture of surface active compound) are used as

chemical for the heat setting and stretching process.

Safety measure:




P a g e | 86

Production procedure:

Operation staff:

o In charge finishing

o Assistant manager

o Textile technologist

o Production officer

o Finishing operator

o Assistant finishing operator

o Helpers

o Learners

Machine setup:

Described below is the machine set up for the stenter machine for TC fabric, Twill

fabric, 100% cotton fabric, cotton poplin and other light fabric finishing, re-finishing

process for white and colored fabric.

Machine set up parameter Actual parameter range Steam pressure for steel bowl As required Pressure for cotton bowl (50-100) K/N Pressure for paper bowl (50-200) K/N Temperature (50-240) °C Speed (30-70)_ m/min Tension roller setting position 1,2,3 depends on the bowl used Seam distance setting 71-120

Checklist before production:

Parameters / Items Value / checking Machine setup a) Threading of machine as per process

requirement. b) Parameters set up should be as per process

requirement. Fabric availability According to program schedule and the route

card having test status “OK” Preparation of chemicals Checking of preparation and also the shifting of

liquor to the delivery tanks. Tape fabric Availability Batches for winding Availability Accessories, necessities and utilities

Availability

Machine Clean condition. Manpower Availability

P a g e | 87


o The operator feed in fabric manually through guide, tension and bowl end roller.

o The machine is started.

o According to the degree of flattening the surface pressure of bowl and the speed are

adjusted.

o Due to the construction and nature of the steel bowl and resilient bowl, the fabric ic

stretched and compressed which is passed through the nip. Thus smoothness of

fabric configuration is achieved.

o In case of steel roller the fabric passed through a pair of (air cooling) situated at the

back of the machine.

o The fabric is rolled in the delivery side batch roller or plate.

o Then the fabric is send to the next stage of finishing or to the inspection department.

Fault check:








previous process.




o If there is any spot on the fabric then it indicate that the sequence of the

chemical pouring in the mixing tank for the wrinkle free finished fabrics not

correct and hence the chemical reaction has damage the fabric.



finished fabric).

Width check:

Measure fabric with by using a measuring tape. Compares with the required finished


checking is 2cm less than the normal fabric finish fabric width

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Design the fabric bow check for yarn dyed fabric:

In the delivery side the operator checks the design and bow, adjust the machine for

checking stripe by straightening the weft of the fabric

QC sample test:

1m sample fabric is cut from each batch (which represent the bulk) and sent to the

QC lab for test. The shade continuity card is checked with the sample for the QC sample

test. QC department does the physical test, chemical test and analysis the test and notes

the result in fabric test result for details of QC test. During scanning of twill fabric data

color machine the sample must be set vertically warp wise. Refer to specification for

details of the methods of sample scanning

Response to equipment Fault in Finishing:

Follow the specification is given below-

Machine faults Response Compensator problem Electrical/Mechanical engineer should

called Air pressure valve problem Mechanical engineer should called Rubber belt surface checking or rough surface problem

Mechanical engineer should called

Batching roller , feed roller compensator , felt moving steam problem etc

Mechanical engineer should called

P a g e | 89

Chapter-Six

QUALITY CONTROL

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Q.C Lab

Pilot plant Q.C Side

Online Offline

Online Quality assurance test

Applicable test:

1. The applicable QA test for pretreatment performance is as follows-

- Pick up percentage test.

- Barium activity number of mercerized fabric.

- pH test.

- Absorbency test.

- Size test.

- Whiteness test.

- Desized wash test.

Test procedure:

Pick up percentage test:

The pick percentage test procedure is as follows-

Machine / solution used : N/A Machine / solution manufactured by

: N/A

Person responsible : QA checker or inspector Frequency : After change of padder, every month

following maintenance and/or whenever required.

Procedure : - Make 3 polythene bag (previously weight denoted BL, BA, BR) L, C and R

P a g e | 91

thus will be use to hold the sample taken during the pickup check. L, C & R represent the position from where the sample is taken. Looking down the machine from the face end in the same direction as the fabric is running, left hand side of the machine will designed as L, center C & right hand side is R.

- Stop the machine when seam level the nip of the padder and cut three samples from the fabric each approximately 3 square inch.

- Place the sample into the bag and seal the bag tightly to prevent the moisture loss. Then weigh each of the bag with the sample inside and record the weight (WL, WC, WR).

- Take the sample out of the bags. Dry the entire sample and the bag on an oven.

- When dried take the bag out of the oven and allow them to cool, then take the sample out of the oven and immediately place them in a correct bag.

- Aloe further cooling of the samples (for 5 min) and reweight the bag with the sample inside and record the weight (DL, DC, DL)

Calculation: (W-B) – (D-B) Liquor pickup percentage =×100

(D-B)

Performance standard : - Singe &Desize = (80-100) % - Scour & Bleach = (110-120)% - Mercerized = (90-100)% - Stenter = (50-70) %

In case of non conformity : Inform mechanical maintenance personnel / relevant area in charge for corrective action.

Barium activity number of mercerized fabric test:

The procedure for barium activity number test on mercerized cloth is given bellow-

Machine / solution used : N/A

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Machine / solution manufactured by

: N/A

Person responsible : QA lab assistant Frequency : As and when required Procedure : 1. Take one unmercerized sample and 3

more sample from left, center and right so that the sample weight is approximately 5 gm. Check the pH if the value is not natural than washed the sample with 10 g/l natural soap and 2 g/l soda ash.boi the sample for one hour and checked the pH of washed liquid. Than dry the sample.

2. After drying take accurately 2 gm portion of each of the sample and cut them into 3mm square. Place the cut portion in 250 ml volumetric flask. Add 30 ml of 0.25 N barium hydroxide solutions in each of flask and keep them for 2 hours. Stir the content at some interval.

3. After 2 hours pipette out 10 ml of solution from the flask and titrate with 1 N HCl. Not down the reading.

Calculation: Barium activity no= Blank Ba(oH)2–After mercerized X100 Blank Ba(oH)2– Before mercerized

Performance standard : 128-140 In case of non conformity : Inform mechanical maintenance personnel /

relevant area in charge for corrective action.

pH test:

The details of pH test procedure is given bellow-

Machine / solution used : Universal indicator solution, flame able liquid, mixable with water, color scale range for pH 4-10

Machine / solution manufactured by

: E-Merck (India) LTd.

Person responsible : QA lab assistant Frequency : Every thousand meter Procedure : 2-3 drop of water are spayed over the fabric,

and then added 1-2 drop of pH solution over it. The resulted color is than compared with

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the scale. Performance standard : - pH 7-8 for reactive.

- pH ≤ 7 for disperse. In case of non conformity : Hot wash

Absorbency test:


: N/A

Person responsible : QA lab assistant Frequency : Every thousand meter Procedure : A full width mercerized fabric is taken. 3

samples are cut from that piece, one from left, one from right and one from center. The size of the sample is (1.3-2.5) cm. Each of the sample is up to 5 cm showing every single cm. the samples are than dipped in the solution (0.5 gm reactive dyes is dissolve in 200 cc water) for 1 min. generally one or less than one cm is dipped in the solution and it is expected that the minimum performance standard.

Performance standard : Minimum 3 cm In case of non conformity : Padding with wetting agent or rewash or

rebleach.

Size test:

Machine / solution used : Lodin solution Machine / solution manufactured by

: N/A

Person responsible : QA lab assistant Frequency : Every thousand meter Procedure : 1. Preparation of iodine solution-

Dissolved 10 gm of potassium iodide in 100 ml of water, add 0.65 gm of iodine and shack till complete dissolution. Fill with water with 800 ml mark and then with ethanol up to 1 liter. Application:

P a g e | 94

Put a drop of the solution take 1 ml solution and dissolve in 99 ml of distill water.

2. Drop method- Take 0.1 N iodine solution and dissolved on 99 ml of distill water Application: Put a drop of the solution on the fabric and compare the color with the scale.

Performance standard : 6 min (degree of desizing) In case of non conformity : Re-scouring

Whiteness test:

Machine / solution used : Spectrophotometer Machine / solution manufactured by

: Date color international

Person responsible : QA lab assistant Frequency : Every 100 meter Procedure : Measure the whiteness and compare the

result. Performance standard : Whiteness chart is given bellow-

Quality Whit fabric

Solid dyed fabric Light shade

Dark shade

PC 80+ / according to buyer requirement

76 75

CVC 80+ / according to buyer requirement

75 72

Cotton poplin

80+ / according to buyer requirement

72 68

Cotton Twill

80+ / according to buyer requirement

72 68

Cotton 80+ / 72 68

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others according to buyer requirement

In case of non conformity : Re-bleaching

Width test:

Machine / solution used : Measuring tape Machine / solution manufactured by

: N/A

Person responsible : QA lab assistant Frequency : Every thousand meter Procedure : Manual measurement Performance standard : In case of mercerizing CVC / PC (142, 144)

cm, cotton (144-148) cm, otherwise as per customer specification.

In case of non conformity : Stretching.

Desized wash test:

Machine / solution used : Dyeing padder Machine / solution manufactured by

: Werner Mathis AG Switzerland

Person responsible : QA lab assistant Frequency : Every yarn dyed fabric Procedure : 1. Take one square feet sample. Use

desizing recipe and pad the sample fabric under the following condition. Temperature 70°C, pH 7 padder pressure 2.5 bar, batching time 12 hr.

2. Hot wash the padded sample with water at 90 °C for 2 min.

3. Dry. 4. Take a part of the dried sample and

padded with 0.5 g/l OBA at room temperature with padder pressure being 2.5 bar.

5. Dry again. 6. Prepare the desized washed sample

sheet (with greige fabric, desized washed fabric and the OBA treated one).

7. Finally compare the sheet with the original swatch (if the fabric is soft finished)

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Performance standard : Match with original. In case of non conformity : During processing, after washing checked

the shade if it does not match go for topping.

2. Applicable test for solid dyed fabric are as follows-

- Shade check.

- Listing.

- Wash fastness.

- Crocking fastness.

Shade check:

Machine : Spectrophotometer Machine manufactured by : Data color international. Person responsible : QA lab assistant Frequency : Every thousand Procedure : 1. Collect sample from dyeing after

every thousand meter. 2. Measure the sample by

spectrophotometer. 3. Print out the result. 4. Make shade continuity card. 5. Samples are also compared visually

with approved lab dip. Performance standard : ΔE value 1.0-1.5 In case of non conformity : Inform QA executive who take the following

necessary action: If shade is too light or dark

Rematch or stripe respectively

If shade is lighter Topping at finishing or dyeing

If shade is darker Re-wash or Re-CPS

Listing:


: N/A

Person responsible : QA lab assistant Frequency : Every thousand meter Procedure : 1. A full width sample is cut into 7

pieces and sewed in the following manner and checked with one another in the light specified by the customer.

1 4 7 2 6 3 5

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2. A full width sample is cut into5 pieces and sewed in the following manner and checked with one another in the light specified by the customer.

1 3 5 2 4

In case of non conformity : If listing problem occur, the responsible person in production should be informed generally increasing or decreasing padder pressure solved the problem.

Offline Quality assurance test All the offline QA test for finished fabric of Bextex limited can be groped as-

- Physical test

- Chemical test

The detail of all application QA test for finished fabric are discussed in bellow-

Physical test:

The applicable QA physical test for finished fabric is as follows-

- Tensile strength test

- Tear strength test

- Abrasion resistance test

- Pilling resistant test

- Crease resistant test

Tensile strength test:

Machine used : Alphatens tensile tester & Titan universal strength tester.

Machine manufactured by : James . H . Heals and company, England. Person responsible : QA lab assistant Frequency : Every order Procedure : According to customer’s requirement and /

or as specified in the BTL quality stander specification.

Performance standard : According to BTL quality stander specification

In case of non conformity : To increase tensile strength re-mercerized (increase of 5 %to 10%) and re finish.

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Tear strength tester:

Machine used : Tearing tester 1653. Machine manufactured by : Person responsible : QA lab assistant Frequency : Every order (only for 100% light fabric) Procedure : According to customer’s requirement and /

or as specified in the BTL quality stander specification.

Performance standard : Both warp and weft 7000 mN minimum or 713 gm minimum or as per the customer requirements.

In case of non conformity : To increase tearing strength re-mercerized and re finish.

Abrasion resistance:

Machine used : Nu-Martindal abrasion and pilling tester. Machine manufactured by : James . H . Heals and company, England. Person responsible : QA lab assistant Frequency : Whenever required. Procedure : BS-5690 ref: Breakdown and according to

customer requirement. Performance standard : Maximum ends breakage per 20000

revolution. In case of non conformity : Re-singing, Re-washing and Re-finishing.

Pilling resistance:

Machine used : ICI pilling box & random Pilling tester. Machine manufactured by : James . H . Heals and company, England. Person responsible : QA lab assistant Frequency : Whenever required. Procedure : BS 5811, ASTM D3512 and according to

customer requirement. Performance standard : Grade – 4

Grade – 3 (for peach fabric) In case of non conformity : Re-singing followed by Resin finish.

Crease resistance:

Machine used : Crease recovery tester. Machine manufactured by : Shirley, England Person responsible : QA lab assistant Frequency : Whenever buyer requirement Procedure : BS EN 22313, AATC 66, ISO 2313. Performance standard : According to buyer given stander. In case of non conformity : Resin finish.

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Chemical test:

The following chemical test are carried out by QA of finished fabric –

- Fastness to perspiration

- Fastness to light

- Fastness to heat

- Fastness to sea water

- Fastness to chloraminated water

- Washing stability

- Fabric pH

Fastness to perspiration:

Machine used : Perspirometer chemical kit &Carbolite incubator.

Machine manufactured by : James . H . Heals and company, England. Person responsible : QA lab assistant Frequency : Whenever customer required. Procedure : BS 1006 ref: E 04, AATCC 105, AATCC 15. Performance standard : BTL stander Color

change Color staining

Acid sweet 4 C 3-4S Alkali sweet 4 C 3-4S

In case of non conformity : Re-wash and Re-finish with fixing agent.

Fastness to light:

Machine used : Light fastness tester (Mercury Vapor Lamp). Machine manufactured by : James . H . Heals and company, England. Person responsible : QA lab assistant Frequency : Whenever customer required. Procedure : BS 1006 B02. Performance standard : For dark shade 4C, for light & Pal shade 3C

and according to customer requirement. In case of non conformity : Select dye stuff with better light fastness

property

Fastness to washing stability:

Machine used : ElectrolueWascator. Machine manufactured by : Wascomat. Person responsible : QA lab assistant Frequency : Every order and batcher. Procedure : BS 4923 ref: 2A, AATCC135, ISO 6330.

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Performance standard : Fabric Warp Weft Non elastic ±3% ±3% Spandex / elastic

(0-6)% (0-6)%

In case of non conformity : Re-finish and Re-sanforize.

Fabric pH:

Machine used : Metller Toledo Machine manufactured by : Metller Toledo AG Person responsible : QA lab assistant Frequency : Whenever required. Procedure : AATCC 81 - 1996 Performance standard : According to customer requirmment. In case of non conformity : Re-wash or Re finish with acid (in case of

reactive dyed fabric)

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Chapter-

Seven

Maintenance

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Maintenance Maintenance is one of the main concerning points for any production oriented

organization. ACS TEXTILES BD LTD. having its own maintenance department is a

strong section. It has a skilled group of maintenance manpower.

Object of maintenance:

To know about the different maintaining parts of machine

To ensure the smooth running of machine

To know about the life time of a machine

To produce the good quality of products

To get good performance of machine

To increasing efficiency of a machine

Types of maintenance:

Cleaning

Oiling

Greasing

Replacement

Overhauling

Period of maintenance:

Type Period

Cleaning Everyday

Oiling Once every six months

Greasing Everyday

Overhauling Once in a year

Manpower per each shed are works:

Maintenance engineer: 01 man

Maintenance checker: 4 man per 32 loom

Fitter: 15

Asst. fitter: 24

Helper or L/C: 30

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Oil man: 08

Maintaining parts:

Bearing

Spring

Valve

Feeling detector

Pin

Sub nozzle

Gears

Shafts

Guide roller

Belts catch

Dobby parts

Change pinion

Gearbox

Cam box

Cleaning difference parts that are covered by dust

Etc

Maintenance tools are available:

Ring spanners

Number

13/10

8

19/17

Open spanners

Number Quantity

27-30 01

22-30 20

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12-14 01

08-09 01

08-10 01

06-07 01

Pullers

Elken sets

1.55mm to 10mm

Lock pullers

T –elken

5mm to 60mm

Screw drivers

6inch

Scale

plus

Hammer rubber

Nozzle gauge

Player

08inch

Pressure gauge

Nose player

06 inch

Adjustable wrench

Lock player

08 inch

Double head spanner

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Single head spanner

Fd gauge

o.5

0.6

1mm are used

T – type wrench

Allen key

Spanner

Oil gun

Lead pliers

Brush

Cross point driver

Wrench set

Araldite cement

Turning bar 5/6inch

Pincetter

IRO spanner

Pin lever

Over fall bolt

Nut locking tool

spade

Drum spanner

For cleaning:

air flower pipe

brush

water

wall dust sucker

Overhead cleaner are used in woven shed.

P a g e | 106

For oiling & greasing:

Oil

Lubricating agent

Grease are used.

For replacement:

Reed

Nozzle

Drop wire

Sensor

Nozzle valves

Rollers

Gears

Pinion

Belts

Weft cutter are replaced if required in various time.

Daily Inspection

Remove any lint on the suction filter for the cooling fan for the driving motors in each

section. Check any trouble and the following points:

→Abnormal noise,

→surface condition, vibration, rotation irregularity of each roll;

→Tension in each section;

→Steam, air size and oil leakage;

→Steam pressure:

a. Main supply pressure

b. Supply pressure to the drying cylinder

c. Supply pressure to the sizing section.

P a g e | 107

→Air pressure:

a. Main supply pressure,

b. Pressure during power failure-at the beam stand and the middle section,

c. pressure due to the cut mark device-standard 3.5pa

→Steam drain exhaust;

→Squeeze roll pressuring condition;

→Exhausting drain in the air filter equipment.

Weekly inspection

→Exhaust drain from the air compressor and the pressure reducing valve with the filter;

→Remove lint from the static electricity eliminator.

1. Roll chain tension

Adjust tension with tension wheel. If the chain has slack replace it.Some check points

are-

a. Sizing section: Sizing roll driving

b.Drying Section: Pre-cylinder drying and main cylinder drying.

c.Take-up section:Warp beam and doffing driving, Taking-up roll driving.

2. V-Belt Tension

Slide the motor base and the V-belt tension. Checkingpoint’s are-

a.Size circulation pump

b.Winding motor

Every three month inspection

1. Steam strainer cleaning:

P a g e | 108

Clean the strainer two or three days after starting operation for the first time. Clean it

every three months after that.

2. Take up box frame and hydraulic unit:

Check the oil amount in the take up box frame and hydraulic unit. Supply if it is

necessary.If oil is dirty replaces it.

3. Pressuredrop after passing the air filter in the pneumatic piping

When the pressure difference between the primary and secondary side reaches 0.1MPa

replace the element.

4. Cleaning of the steam trap

Clean the steam trap two or three days after starting operation for the first time. Clean it

every three months after that.

Every six month inspection

Polish the rubber rolls in the sizing section every six months.

Check the bearings.

Tools for assembly

1. 1-ton chain block: Four sets

2. 1-ton forklift: 1-2 sets

3. Transit and stepladder

Lubrication

1. Lubrication position and required amount

Model Oil or grease Application Q’ty/unit

HS40 Oil Take-up gear box

Sizing gear motor

6.5 litres

6.0 litres

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Heatproof Oil Centralized

lubrication oil

3.0 litres

Hydraulic actuation

oil

Oil tank 15.0 litres

Grease Sliding section,

bearing

1.0 liters

2. Recommended Oil

Manufacturer Oil Grease Hydraulic

actuation oil

Centralized

lubrication

Nippon oil

Corporation

FBK OIL

RO150

MULTINOC

GREASE 2

FAIRCOL A46

ESSO Teresso 150 Beacon EP2 Teresso32

MOBIL Mobil DTE

Extra heavy

Mobilux Grease

2

Mobil Rarus

425

Maintenance of loom

Periodical Inspection and Maintenance

Inspection Position Check points Maintenance

Brake Check for abnormally highly

temperature

Adjust

Selvedge Check for abnormal noise Adjust to 0.2mm

Feeler Head Check for dirt on the lens Clean the lens

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Cutter Check the weft is well Replace damaged edges

Selvedge formation Check that the selvedge yarn

is threaded properly and in

uniform tension

Correctly threading and

adjust tension

Temple Check that the temple marks

do not appear

Adjust

Catch cord Check that the tuft is not

wound on the take up roll

Remove the tuft and clean

Inspection and Maintenance after weaving


Whole loom Check driving and

lubrication section

Remove lint and waste

yarns

Lubricate

Temple Check the temple ring

rotates easily and are not

worn out

Remove lint and dirt,

whenneed replace

FDP Check that lint has not

adhered to the hook pin,

main drum or pin drum

Clean

Healed frame Check that the healed frame

height difference is 2mm or

less compared with specific

value

Adjust the healed frame

height

Air filter Check if the drain is filled

up

Drain

Let off Check that yarn has not

adhered to the easing shaft

Remove waste yarn

Lubrication Grease nipples, teeth of

open gears

Apply grease with brush

P a g e | 111

Every Six Month Inspection and Maintenance


Thread guide Check for dirt Clean

Hook pin assembly of FDP Check inside for dirt Clean

Sensors Check that they function

normally

Replace

Gear box of take-up and let-

off Section

Check for dirt of oil Replace

Air Filter Check that the filter

element is not clogged

Clean ,replace

Reed Check for adhesive

monomer and abrasions

Clean, replace

Main nozzle Check that the pipe is not

bent

Replace

Sub nozzle Check for bent on the tips Replace

Yearly Inspection and Maintenance


Warp beam Check that abrasion of

journal section is 0.3mm or

less

Return to workshop if

damage

Shock absorber Check the function Replace

Cutter on the LH Check the edge for

sharpness

Grind or replace

Hook pin assembly Check that abrasion is

0.5mm or less

Remove burr

Cloth roll metal bush Check that bush abrasion is

0.8mm or less

Replace

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Every Three yearly Inspection and Maintenance


Cloth roll Check that the roll rotates

smoothly and cloth is

wound

Replace the brake lining

Sub nozzle Check for dirt Clean

Every Seven year Inspection and Maintenance


Overhaul Loom, Bearings, Gear

,Cams, Hook pins, Main

motor Shedding section,

Let-off and take-up

section,FDP section

Lubrication Points

Position Period Lubricant type

Driving Section Gear box- 6 months

Main motor-3 months

Oil A

Grease C

Shedding Section Heald Frame Guide-1 week Grease A

Let off Section Gear box-6 months

Gears-After weaving

Oil B

Grease A

Take-up Section Gear box-6 months

Gears-6 months

Oil B

Oil A

Selvedge Section Slide Gear-After weaving

Bobbin Shaft-After weaving

Grease A

Cutter Section Cutter lever pin-After

weaving

Grease A

P a g e | 113

Cutter cam-After weaving

Automation Support Bracket-After

weaving

Grease A

Recommended Lubricants

Manufacturer Name

NIPPON OIL CORPORATION FBK Oil RO100

SHELL Tellus Oil C100

JOMO Ratus 100

MOBIL Mobil DTE Oil Heavy

EXXON Teresso 100

Tools and Their Functions

Name Functions

Pulley Puller

Adapter

For removing the motor pulley from the main motor shaft

G6 type puller For pulling out the loom pulley from the crank shaft

Turnbuckle For opening the split of the motor base

Tube Cutter When cutting the synthetic flexible tube

Torque wrench When mounting the reed on the reed holder

Adjusting

Bracket

When adjusting the vertical position of the tension metal supporter

G3 type puller For disassembling the FDP drum to remove the drum holder

Lifting rod bar Moving up the press roll in gaiting

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Chapter-

Eight

Store & Inventory Control

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Inventory system for raw materials:

ACS TEXTILES BD LTD. Contain yearly inventory system for raw materials specially raw

yarns are as follows:

Cotton

Polyester

PC

CVC

Linen in various count of comes from naheed, badsha, kamal,yasmin,NZ, shiva,

gtn spinning.

Spares:

Various types of gears & pinion.

Pulley belts

Heald frames tools

Reed

Nozzle valves

Drop wires

Drop rood

Etcare stored.

Finished goods of ACS textilesBd LTD.

• STONE WASH –

– Regular basic quality to maintain price point.

– Treated for special worn out rugged look.

– Works Well with old classic floral – for the old Laura Ashley look.

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Denim

Selling Features –

0% Shrinkage

Price Effective

Kids and Adult ranges possible

Yarn Dyed

Simple Stripes and Simple Checks

P a g e | 117

For the timeless luxurious look and quality.

Yarn Dyed Patterns

- Monthly inventory control

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- Annual inventory control

Scope of inventory control :

- Raw materials Dyes store Others chemicals store Grey fabrics

- Finishing fabric - Spare parts - General store

Capital equipment

Accessories

Stationary

Maintenance parts.

Inventory system for raw materials:

- Raw materials partially received from production planning & directly from head office.

- Material Receiving & Inspection Report (MRIR) is prepared. Received quantity is mentioned & noted down.

- Submitted to QC department. Some are OK & few rejected. - Entry of data of goods in DATATEX. - Goods are arranged according to OK or rejected group. - Department gives store requisition to warehouse.

- As per requisition materials supplied & this record is noted down. Stages of grey fabric inventory control.

- After knitting production - Grey inspection - Warehouse - Batch preparation - Dye house.

Stages of finished fabric inventory control

- Finishing section - After final inspection - Warehouse.

Remark

- The inventory system of BKL covers both knitting & dyeing inventories. - The space is noticed to be insufficient considerably. - An expansion of space is thus desired for sound inventory.

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Chapter-Nine

UTILITIES

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Utility Service

Utility facilities available

The following utilities services are available in ACS TEXTILE BD LTD.

Generator

Air-Compressor

Boiler

Air Conditioner

Water facilities

Air Dryer

Capacity and other technical details:

Air-Compressor:

The compressed air for weft insertion should be high quality in order to to run the air-

jet loom efficiently. Select equipment to obtain high quality compressed air. High quality

is important not only for better performance of weft insertion but also maintaining a

hygienic surrounding. Some important factor for air quality are given below-

Moisture

Grease

Foreign particle and carbon

Air preparation:

Receive

Filtration

Compressed the air

Drying

Separation

Microfiltration

Reserver

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Specification:

Name: Electronikon

Brand: Atlas Copco

Type: ZT250

Serial no: APF15

Working pressure: 7.5 bar

Origin: Belgium

Capacity: /min

Input power: 250-260 V

Rpm of motor: 1485

Total no of Air-Compressor: 24

Air Dryer:

Type: FD1250 APS IEC

Serial No.: APS 142575

Weight Generation: 860kg

Boiler:

Type: Water Tube

Heating: Steam boiler

Required Gas: /day

Total no. of Boiler: 04

6 ton capacity: 01

8Ton capacity: 03

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Generator:

Type: Gas Generator

Required gas: /24 hour

Total no of generator are as given below-

Capacity Number

900KW 07

1415KW 02

!015KW 03

Total 12

Air-Conditioner Unit:

Total: 12 units

Source of utility:

There are two source of Utility in ACS TEXTILE BD LTD. they are given below-

Gas from Government

Water from Natural source

Air from Natural source

Another Utilities such as – Electricity is produced by generating gas.

Cost of different utilities:

The cost of different utilities are given below-

Service Price/unit

Boiler 5.75 tk

Generator 1.85 tk

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Safety:

A full team of fire service is available in the mill.

Available water for fire protection is laid all over the factory.

There are available fire gun in floor and all over the factory.

Every worker and stuffs are trained by fire protecting tem after a certain period.

Firing alarm and emergency escaped are cheeked.

All employee of fire team wear fire protecting dress, boot, globs, glass, helmets

etc.

Water Treatment Plant (WPT)

Water for a textile plant may come from various sources. But this water cannot be used

directly in textile processing because it contains various salts. These salts are mainly the

carbonates (CO32-), Hydrogen carbonates or bi-carbonates (HCO3-), Sulphates (SO42-)

and Chlorides (Cl-) of Calcium (Ca2+), and Magnesium (Mg2+). These are called hardness

in the water. These must be removed though water treatment plant.

Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP)

The effluent generated from different sections of a textile industry must be treated

before they are discharged to the environment. Various chemicals and physical means

are introduced for this purpose.

Capacity : 150m3/ hr

Cost : Tk. 1.175 / Kg

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Flow chart for ETP:

Waste Water

Collection Sump

Dissolved Air Flotation Unit Sludge Thickener

Aeration Tank Sludge Drying Bad

Settling Tank Sludge Management

Clear water Tank

Multimedia Filter

Discharge


o Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD) o Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD)

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o Total suspended solids o Total dissolved solids o Color o pH etc. o

Chemicals Used in ETP:

o Ferrous-Sulphate-(FeSO4-7H2O) o Hydrochloric-Acid (HCL) o Lime o Polymer o Sodium-Hypo-Chloride (NaOCl) o Urea-Fertilizer

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Chapter-

Ten

Maintenance

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Conclusion

We are enough fortunate that we have got an opportunity of having a training in this

mill during the training period. We‘ve received co-operation & association from the

authority fully. All the machines & materials found on appreciable working condition.

All the stuffs & officers were very much helpful to us. We apologize for our any behavior

which may disappoint the officers and personnel. Due to secrecy act, all the data on

costing & marketing activities has not been supplied & hence the data given regarding

to this do not resemblance to the actual data. The whole process is not possible to bind

in such a small frame as this report, hence our effort spent on summarizing, not

describing them.

References:

ACS TEXTILES DESK [email protected] www.google.com www.wikipidea.com

Supervising teachers:

Atiq-ur-rehman ;Lab Manager Mr. Tariq Raza; weaving preprocess manager

The other people who are dedicated to us-

Md. ZiaurRahman, Manager of Admin &HR Md. HumaiyunKabir, asst. Manager of Admin. Mr. Ramjan; GM of ACS TEXTILES BD LTD. Md. Atik; manager of pre Production Mr. Bazwa; maintenance Officer Mr. NiyazMorshed; woven manager Mr.Abdus Salam; technical manager Mr. Wasim; woven manager Mr.Toiyab; mechanical engineer Mr.kamrulAlom;Sr.Production Officer. And all the stuff and worker who helped us during our industrial training and

data collection.

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END

Industrial attachment of acs textils ltd Bangladesh

Engineering

Transcript of Industrial attachment of acs textils ltd Bangladesh