Indistrial attachment of micro fibre Group

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INDUSTRIAL TRAININGCourse Code: Tex -4036

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENTMICRO FIBRE LTD

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Letter of Transmittal

Date- 15nd May’ 12Syed Faqrul HassanProfessor & chairmanDepartment of Textile EngineeringSoutheast University

Subject: Submission of the “Industrial attachment Report”.

Dear Sir,We are pleased to submit our “Industrial attachment Report” This is submitted under theprogram of B.Sc in Textile Engineering in Southeast University.

The Report has been completed in accordance with the knowledge that we have gatherduring our Industrial Training and the guidelines received from our honorable teachers andour group members.

We tried to make this Report is to give a clear picture on Fabric Manufacturing Technology,Wet processing Technology & Garments Manufacturing Technology practically used onMicro Fibre Ltd. However, we will always be ready to provide any further clarification thatyou may require.

Yours Sincerely,

Mohammad Tahmidur Rahman 2008100400096Md. Lokman Hossain 2008100400086Md. Abir Hossain 2008100400084Md. Najmus Salihin 2008100400082Batch: 8th Sec: GMT

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

At first my gratefulness goes to Almighty Allah for giving me strength and ability tocomplete the industrial training and this report. You have made my life more beautiful. Mayyour name be exalted, honored and glorified.

Now I wish to take this excellent opportunity to thank a lot of people who have assistedand inspired me, Prof. Syed Fakhrul Hassan my supervisor, to whom I am extremely indebtedfor his tremendous support and guidance throughout my training period. Working with him Ihave not only earned valuable knowledge but also was inspired by him innovativeness whichhelped enriches my experience to a greater extent. His ideas and way of working was trulyremarkable.

I would like to thank the management of the MICRO FIBRE LTD. for giving me theopportunity to complete the industrial training successfully and also for their valuablesuggestion. My deepest gratitude goes to Executive Director Mr. Amirul Haque, GeneralManager Mr. Mizanur Rahaman Patwoary, Assistant general manager Mr. Solaiman Hossain,MICRO FIBRE LTD. for their permission to conduct my industrial training without which itwould be impossible. Their generous support is greatly appreciated. I would also like to thankspecially our senior brothers and sisters working there efficiently as textile engineer. I am greatlyindebted to them. I also want to thank executives, senior executives and other official’s employeeof MICRO FIBRE LTD. for helping me to complete industrial training successfully. Mygratitude also goes to all the employees of MICRO FIBRE LTD. for their sincere co-operation,support and valuable advices.

Finally my heartfelt thanks goes to my training mates for their indescribable co-operation& sincerity.

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Table of Content

Topics Page no.Letter of Transmittal 1

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT 2Table Of Content 3

Introduction 7Vision 7

Mission 7Chapter-1

Project Description 8Project Location 9History of Project Development 10Different Department 11Product mix 11Layout Design 12Physical Infrastructure 13Remarks 14Chapter-2

MANPOWER MANAGEMENTOrgan gram of man-power administration 15Management system 16Shift change 16Total Section Wise Man power Management system 16Responsibilities of S.P.O/P.O 17Remarks 17CHAPTER -03

RAW MATERIALSTypes of Raw Materials 18Yarn 18Sources 18Grey Fabrics 19Sources 19Price: 19Chemicals 19

Chemical formula of common chemicals used in textile dyeing 20

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Printing chemicals function 21Annual requirement 21Remarks 21CHAPTER-4

Knitting SectionProduction Flow Chart of Knitting Section 22Lay-out Plan of knitting Machineries 23List of Single Jersey Circular knitting Machineries 25List of Double Jersey Circular knitting Machineries 27List of Auto Stripe Circular knitting Machineries 28List of Flat Bed knitting Machineries 28List of Cloth Inspection Machineries 29Machine Description 30Description of production process 32GSM 32Production calculation 33Required yarn count to maintain G.S.M 35Relation Between different yarn count, fabric type, stitch length & finishedGSM 35Structure, cam arrangement & notation diagram of various fabric 37Fabric fault 39Remarks 39Chapter-05

Wet processing SectionProduction flow chart for fabric Dyeing 40Process sequence for Cotton Dyeing 41Pretreatment 41Dyeing 44Dyeing program for Disperse Dyes 45Re-dyeing process 45After Treatment Of All Program 47Common textile auxiliaries used in dyeing 49Problems Encountered In Dyeing 51Printing 53Finishing 56CHAPTER-6

Garments sectionIntroduction 72Sample Section 73IE (Industrial Engineering) 75CAD Section 77Cutting Section 79Sewing Section

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Introduction 87Sewing Procedure Flow Chart 88Sewing Procedure 89Types of seam 92Stitch 97Machine Identification 102SEWING NEEDLE 107Sewing Thread 110SMV calculation 113SEWING DEFECTS OR PROBLEMS 114Sewing Quality Checking Points 117Finishing Section 118GARMENTS MERCHANDISINGDefinition 120Flow chart of merchandising 120Responsibilities of Merchandiser 121GARMENTS ACCESSORIES 122CHAPTER-7

Quality Assurance SystemQuality assurance 124Object of quality control 124Quality Control Flow Chart 125Quality Management system 125Various Test 127WORKING PROCEDURE FOR LAB 128Dyeing And QC Laboratory Machineries 129Fabric Inspection 134Procedure of the Different Laboratory Tests 137Quality Standard 145Remarks 146CHAPTER-08

MAINTENANCEMaintenance of machinery 147Manpower Set-Up For Maintenance 148Maintenance procedure 148Maintenance work to the different machines 149Maintenance tools/equipments & their functions 151Remarks 152CHAPTER-09

UTILITY SERVICEAvailable Utility Facilities 153Utility cost 156

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Remarks 156Water treatment plantProcess Flow chart 157Function of different tank 157Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP)Flow chart for ETP 158Effluent analyzing report 159Chemicals Used in ETP 159CHAPTER-10

STORE & INVENTORY CONTROLInventory system for raw material 160Grey fabrics store 160Dyes & chemicals store 160Spares 160Finished goods 160Remarks 161CHAPTER-11

COST ANALYSIS 161CHAPTER-12

MARKETING ACTIVITIESConsumers of Product 162Name of buyer 162Importing countries 163Manpower of marketing 163Strategy 163Duties and responsibilities of marketing officer 164Remarks 164CHAPTER -13

CONCLUSION 165

Introduction:

Final course industrial training is one of the most essential parts of engineering &technical education. This industrial training is included in our syllabus to acquaint us with thepractical implementation of the technology studied within the industrial environment. Though it isvery helpful & lays the milestone for starting the carrier for fresh Textile graduates.

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Fabric manufacturing, wet processing technology and Garments manufacturingtechnology which occupies a vast field in modern Textile technology is undergoing many stages ofprocessing. Many problems are generally being encountered during each operation stage startingfrom yarn to fabric and fabric to finished garments stage. Finally from mill training, we learnpractical Knowledge about on fabric manufacturing and wet processing under industrialenvironment. We think it will be helpful in our future carrier.

Vision:

To establish as a one stop source for the Global knit Apparel market and to satisfyand meet customers expectation by developing and providing products and services on time,which offer value in terms of Quality, Price, Safety and Environmental impact.

Assuring complete compliance with the international quality standards and alsoproviding the employees internationally acceptable working condition and standards. Topromote the development and to use human talent and equal opportunity of employment.

Mission:

Micro fibre realizes the need to take out a competitive segment in the changing globalmarket of today through technological excellence and human expertise. Micro fibre is committed totranspose its local success to the world scene.

CHAPTER-01

PROJECT DESCRIPTION

Name of the project : MICRO FIBRE GROUPSister organizations : A-One polar Ltd,

Liberty Knitwear Ltd,Midland Knitwear Ltd,Orient Chem.-Tex Ltd.

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Type of the mill : 100% export oriented knit composite textile mill.Year of establishment:1998Registered Office: 331, Tongi Dioversion Road, Moghbazar, Dhaka –

1217, BangladeshFactory Address: Ramarbagh, Kutubpur, Fatullah, Narayangonj,

Bangladesh0189-214648, 0173-034617 (E.D)0171-3001607 (D.G.M-Production),0173- 011112 (Merchandising Manager)

Communication: The project is easily accessible by road. The routehas been clarified in the location map presented inthe previous page.

Sponsors: The mill is sponsored by M.S. Zaman.Capacity: Gray knit fabric production 8000 Kg/day

(approximately)Dyed knitted fabric 22-24 ton/day (approximately)

Project cost: Cost of the project is approximately in Taka250,00,00,000

Project area : 7.00 acres

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Location Of TheMICRO FIBRE GROUP

Chashara

Micro

Fibre

Group

Chittagong

Road

Shibo Market

Fatullah

Narayanganj

Fatullah

Fatullah

Stadium

Sign

BoardZatraBari

Tikatoli

Gulistan

Ramarvag

Kamolapur

railstation

Fatullah

Rail

station

WE

N

S

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History of project development:

It is a moment of rejoice to introduce Micro Fiber Group (MFG) to its clientsand patrons. MFG believes whatever it has achieved; its credits should be directed toward itsclients.

Micro fibre group started their Textile business in 1998 by starting construction of the buildingfor project setup. At 1st they set up Garments project. In 1999 they went to production of fabricand dyeing with a dryer of 400 kg & 6 ton capacity boiler. As an ambition to expand the businessthey setup knitting section in 2000 & to fill the demand of knitting they setup as well as stenter,calendar, dewatering m/c, dryer for finishing. With the passage of time different type of m/cwere brought to the mill to improve the quality & production. The mill is well oriented for knitcomposite project.

Therefore, when many struggle to survive in post-MFA world; its business in fact enjoying ahealthy growth.

Moreover, having endless efforts to ensure internationally accepted employment practice, itsclients recognize us as a partner to protect their value system and images among final consumers.

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Different departments:i. Knitting section

Circular Flat

ii. Dyeing section: Knit dyeing

iii. Garments sectioniv. Costing & Financev. Logistics

vi. Maintenancevii. Planning section

viii. QC section

Product mix:

Types of raw materials processed here are-

i. cotton- 100% combed or cardedii. polyester-cotton blend (p/c or t/c), (65%pet+35% cotton)

iii. CVC (60% cotton+40% polyester)iv. grey melange (85% cotton+15% viscose)v. Ecru melange (98% cotton+2% viscose or 99% cotton+1% viscose)

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Security

RoomHealth

facilities

Room

Liberty

Garments

Micro

Finishing

Micro

Dyeing

Utilities

Room

Utilities

Room

Midland

Dyeing

Midlandfinishing

Midland

Printing

Maintenance

Department

Office

Office

Office

Midlandfinishing

Midland Knitting

&

Garments

Office

Dyes &

Chemicals

Store

Store

Car parking

Office Entrance

Midland

Dyeing

MidlandFinishing

Laboratory

Canteen

PrayerPlace

ETPE W

S

N

LAYOUT DESIGN

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Cost &finance

Accounts

MICRO FIBREGROUP

Knitting

Dyeing Garment Admin Maintenance

Knit(admin)

Knit(prod)

Knitdyeing

QCProd

Gmt(Admin)

Gmt(Prod)

ElectricDept

Mechanical Dept

Utility Cleaning

Physical Infrastructure:

Remark:Micro Fiber Group is a well established knit composite industry. The

industry stands on industrial area of Ramarbagh, Narayangonj. It is a Group of Companies, .It is going to prove its own standard of product quality in world market as they know that

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their reputation depends on quality. It is a profitable project and contributes the economy ofour country.

CHAPTER -2

MANPOWER MANAGEMENTOrgan gram of man-power administration

MANAGING DIRECTOR

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

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GENERAL MANAGER

ASST. GENERAL MANAGER

ASSISTANT PRODUCTION MANAGER MANAGER (LAB & QC)

SENIOR PRODUCTION OFFICER OFFICER

PRODUCTION OFFICER SENIOR OFFICER

ASSISTANT PRODUCTION OFFICER SENIOR LAB ASSISTANT

SENIOR SUPERVISOR LAB ASSISTANT

SUPERVISOR LAB BOY

ASSISTANT SUPERVISOR

SENIOR OPERATOR

OPERATOR

ASSISTANT OPERATOR

HELPER

Management system:

In Micro Fiber Group the management system is regular. employees are wellskilled and are graduate in their respective profession.

Shift change:

The industry has two shift .Duration of every shift is 12 hours. Workers get onehour break time. Shift change depends on the work order and production. There is asupervisor in every shift who takes the working activities & understands his responsibilitiesfrom previous supervisor during shift change.

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Total Section Wise Man power Management system:

Micro Fibre Group has sufficient number of skilled manpower working in different sections.A picture of manpower distribution with total manpower is given below:

Responsibilities of S.P.O/P.O:

The main job as well as main responsibility of a s.p.o is to control process. Theresponsibility of a s.p.o/p.o is to complete a batch in required time. Any fault or disturbancehappens in a batch, the blame goes to s.p.o/p.o. The p.o should try to minimize overheadexpenditures and also try to make a batch more profitable. In a word he is in charge of thefloor & his responsibility is to keep moving the production smoothly.

Job description of S.P.O/P.O

1. To give program slip according to daily production plan.2. To follow up production process from raw materials to finished goods.3. To match shade in connection with fabric quality according to buyer

requirements.4. To find out fabric faults as early as possible (before finishing), & take stes to

recover it.5. To rectify the finished fabric rejected from quality control department.6. To coordinate with unit technical manager for achieving the target production.

DEPARTMENT MANPOWER

Knitting 445

Dyeing 560

Printing 138

Finishing 315

Garments 3587

Maintenance 40

Administration 23

Utility 20

Security 28

Total 5136

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7. To motivate supervisors and workers for achieving maximum production withminimum faults.

8. To check the daily production report.9. To study dye & chemicals nature delivery by the manufacturer & apply them

Correctly to the production to get best product.

Remarks

The manpower management system in Micro Fiber Group is well arranged.There are good number of textile engineers in the industry. but they are not adequate enoughto undertake the huge production of the industry. Some more are expected to be enrolledthere in the shortest possible time to meet up the growing need. The efficiency of the workershould be increased for more quality production.

CHAPTER -03

RAW MATERIALS

Micro Fiber Ltd. is a knit composite industry. In the industry raw materials fordifferent section is different. As for example knitting uses yarn as raw material, Fabricprocessing department uses the knit fabrics, dyes and chemicals.

Types of Raw Materials:Different type of raw materials are found like1. Yarn2. Grey Fabric3. Dyes4. Chemicals

Order is usually obtain in the form of making complete garments grey fabric or yarn dyeingthat is main raw material is fabric & yarn. Fabric is made in its own knitting section fromdifferent types of yarn according to requirement, but sometimes buyer may supplies this.

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Yarn:Following types of yarns are used to knit fabrics:

1. Cotton — 30 s/1, 80/2, 20/1, 60/2,34s/l, 26/1, 20/1, 18/1,24/1 (Carded or combed.)

2. Filament —20/D, 24/D, 30/D, 40/D,75/D, 100/D, 150/D.3. Polyester spun — 50/2 Ne, 20/2 Ne.4. T/C —+30/1, T/C.5. Viscose —26/1.6. CVC (varying proportion)

The count mentioned above was found during mill training.

Sources:Yarn is collected from the fo1lowing sources:

1. Shohagpur spinning mills2. Delta spinning3. Israk spinning mills4. Delsy spinning mills5. Techno spinning mills6. Jamuna spinning mills7. Malek spinning mills8. Kader spinning mills

Price: Not provided.Grey Fabrics: Following types of grey fabrics are dyed:

1.Single jersey:- Single and double lacoste- Polo pique- Terry fleece- Engineering stripe

2. Single jersey with Lycra3. Double jersey:

- Rib- Interlock

4. Double jersey with Lycra

5. Flat bed :-Single Collar and Cuff-Design Collar and cuff

Sources:The required grey fabric is produce in the industry. The required fabrics are supplied

from Micro Fiber Ltd.

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Price:Price of grey fabrics depends upon the price of yarn and the making charge of the fabric.

For example, in case of 30’s spun cotton yarn, the price of yarn is $3/kg and for single jerseyfabric the knitting charge is $0.18. So the price of single jersey fabric is $3.18/kg.

Chemicals:

CHEMICALNAME

TRADE NAME CHEMICALNAME

TRADE NAME

Opticalbrightening

Bluton –BVB Anticreasing agent CAN

Wetting agent SCF Leveling agent CL-225

Fixing agent SR Softener FS

Peroxide killer OEM Antifoaming agent SF

Leveling agent RLF-349 Anticreasing agent CBA

Sequestering agent SQ-117 Antifixing agent TPA

Softener WCS Softener EAS

Sequestering agent 2UD Soap AW-501

Alkali RH Sequestering agent SQ-114

Acetic acid G.acid Brightening agent SQS

Silicon PE-40 Wetting agent MC

Opticalbrightening

ER330 Enzyme MKL

Flame retardant WRN Opticalbrightening

BBU

Dust remover Flock BM Sequestering agent InSA

Fixing agent SR Opticalbrightening

BUBZAM

Commonly used dyes in fabric dyeing section in Micro fibre Ltd

For light color: RR dyesi. Yellow RR

ii. Red RR

iii. Blue RR

Chemical formula of common chemicals used in textile dyeing:Water – H2O

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Hydrochloric acid - HCISulfuric acid –H2SO4

Phosphoric acid – H3PO4

Sodium chloride (common salt) - NaClSodium carbonate – Na2CO3

Sodium sulfate (glauber salt) – Na2SO4

Sodium bicarbonate – NaHCO3

Sodium hydroxide - NaOHPotassium hydroxide - KOHSulfur dioxide – SO2

Tri sodium Phosphate – Na3PO4

Benzene – C6H6

Acetic acid - CH3COOHOxalic acid - (COOH)2

Cellulose – C6H10O5

Starch - C6H10O5

Hydros (sodium hydrosulfite) – Na2S2O4

Bleaching powder- Ca(OCl)Cl

Printing chemicals function:The functions of chemical used in printing process are given below

Urea: Hydroscoping agent, by using urea the steaming is finished within 5 to10hours.

Resist salt: NaCl is penetrated by heating but resist salt is penetrated into fabricwithout heating.

Na2CO3: Fixing the dyes molecules properly. Thickener: Thickener helps the past or chemical to be not sprayed on the fabric or

not to be bleeding.

Increased paste viscosity. Reduce screen pore radius.

Price:Price of dyes & chemicals depend on the quality, type availability & requirement. For

high quality product, better dye & chemical should be used though cost is high.

Annual requirement:Annual requirement of dyes & chemical depend on the order of production but for various

reasons such as improper weighting, carelessness of operators, hydrolysis of dyes, unevenprocess control, wrong recipe formulation, incorrect batching, improper storage facilities &for different unwanted expenditure increases dyes & chemicals requirement.

Remarks:

For smooth running of a factory uninterrupted supply of raw materials is very essential.As far as we saw the raw material control of MFG is good.

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CHAPTER-4

Knitting Section

The process in which fabrics are produced by set of connected loops from a series of yarns iscalled knitting.

Warp knitting Weft knitting

When fabric is produced by this method in weft direction then its called weft knitting & warpdirection then its called warp knitting.

Production Flow Chart of Knitting Section:

Sample fabric

Design analysis

Machine selection

Setting the machine for the specific design

Sample Knitting

Sample approval

Bulk Production

Grey fabric inspection

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Lay-out Plan of knitting Machineries :

A = Office of A.G.M (Knitting)

B = Office of Production Officer

D

L

G F

E

M

IA

J

J

S

E W

N

K

H

C

B

I

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C = Cloth inspection machine

D = Re-conning machine

E = Supervisor office & Knit Admin

F = Flat bed knitting section

G = Spare Cylinder room

H = Stair

I = Lift

J = Store of Spare parts & equipments

K = Fitter / Staff office

L = Toilet

M = Auto stripe Machine Section

= Circular Knitting Machine (Single & Double Jersey)

= Eyes marking or Floor marking

Total Floor space of the knitting floor = 20,338.93 Sq.ft (approximately)

In Micro Fibre Group the total number of knitting machine is 83 ( where Single jerseycircular knitting machine is 47, Double jersey circular knitting machine is 14, Auto Stripecircular knitting machine is 5, And Flat Bed knitting machine is 17, total 83). But there hasanother knitting floor where other knitting machines are positioned.

The space of 14862.19 Sq.ft for Circular knitting machines which are assembles in previouspage.And in this lay out plan 40 No’s of Circular knitting machine are situated.

One circular knitting machine with creel stand which required 262.44 sq.ft So, the number of40 knitting machines required space is, = 262.44 sq.ft × 40 = 10497.6 Sq.ft

The totally free space is = 14862.19 Sq.ft - 10497.6 Sq.ft = 4364.59 Sq. ft

List of Single Jersey Circular knitting Machineries :

Serial No Machine BrandName

M/CType

M/CDia

M/CGauge

M/CFeeder

Origin

01 Jiunn Long S/J 22 24 66 F Taiwan

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List of Single Jersey Circular knitting Machineries :






















SerialNo

Machine BrandName

M/CType

M/CDia

M/CGauge

M/CFeeder

Origin





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List of Double Jersey Circular knitting Machineries :




















46 Fukuhama S/J 30 24 90 F Taiwan

47 Fukuhama S/J 31 22 72 F Taiwan

SerialNo

Machine BrandName

Fabrictype

M/CType

M/CDia

M/CGaug

e

M/CFeeder

Origin

01 Falmac Interlock

D/J 24 16 38 F Singapore

02 Falmac Rib D/J 34 16 54 F Singapore



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List of Auto Stripe Circular knitting Machineries :

List of Flat Bed knitting Machineries :

05 Hubter Rib D/J 38 18 80 F Taiwan




09 Fukahama Interlock

D/J 36 18 72 F Taiwan



11 Fukahama Rib D/J 36 18 72 F Taiwan





SerialNo

Machine BrandName

M/CType

M/CDia

M/CGauge

M/CFeeder

Origin

01 Fukuhara S/J 30 24 48 Japan




05 Fukuhara Rib/Interlock

36 18 48 Japan

Serial

MachineName

M/C Type M/CBed

M/CGauge

M/CCares

Origin

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List of Cloth Inspection Machineries :

SerialNo

Machine Name Nos Brand Origin

01 Grey Fabric Inspection Machine 02 Sets UZU® Thailand

No Length

01 AroundStar

Computerized Flat BedM/C

40 14 SingleCares

Taiwan

02 AroundStar


40 14 SingleCares

Taiwan

03 AroundStar


40 14 SingleCares

Taiwan

04 AroundStar


40 14 SingleCares

Taiwan

05 AroundStar


40 14 SingleCares

Taiwan

06 AroundStar


40 14 SingleCares

Taiwan

07 AroundStar


86 14 SingleCares

Taiwan

08 AroundStar


68 14 DoubleCares

Taiwan

09 AroundStar


68 14 DoubleCares

Taiwan

10 AroundStar


68 14 DoubleCares

Taiwan

11 AroundStar


68 14 DoubleCares

Taiwan

12 AroundStar


68 14 DoubleCares

Taiwan

13 AroundStar


68 14 DoubleCares

Taiwan

14 AroundStar


68 14 DoubleCares

Taiwan

15 AroundStar


68 14 DoubleCares

Taiwan

16 AroundStar


68 14 DoubleCares

Taiwan

17 AroundStar


68 14 DoubleCares

Taiwan

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Machine Picture

SINGLE JERSEY CIRCULER KNITTING MACHINE

JIUNN LONG MACHINE CO. LTD.

TAIWAN.

Specification:

Model: JLS Cyl. Dia: 30"Feeders: 90 F Gauge: 24 GNeedles: 2256 T


JIUNN LONG MACHINE CO. LTD.

TAIWAN.

Specification:

Model: JLS Cyl. Dia: 30"Feeders: 90 F Gauge: 24 GNeedles: 2256 T


FUKAHAMA MACHINERY CO. LTD.

YUANHSIEN, TAIWAN.

Specification:

Model: SH-JFA3 Cyl. Dia: 34"

Feeders: 102 F Gauge: 24 G

Mfg. Date: Sep. 2010

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FUKUHARA STRIPER MACHING

PRECISION FUKUHARA WORKS,LTD.

JAPAN.

Specification:

Gauge: 20/24 Feeders: 192 F

Size: 34"

Mfg. Date: March.2007

COMPUTERIZED FLAT KNITTING

MACHINE

AROUND STAR INTERNATIONAL CO. LTD.

TAIWAN.

Specification:

Bed Length: 40"

Gauge: 14 G

Mfg. Date: 2008

UZU® FABRIC INSPECTION MACHINE

AATPR INDUSTRY CO. LTD.

THAILAND.

Mfg. Date: April-2007

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Description of production process:Micro Fiber Ltd. Is capable of producing stripes of any width and enormous color.

The engineering stripes machines are used for producing such fabrics. Except this feederstripes are also produced. Single jersey fabrics and its derivatives like lacost, polo pique, terryfleece etc. are also produced. Rib and interlock fabrics and its derivatives such as 2x2, 3x3etc. are also produced. Different fabrics can be produced by jacquard m/c by varying thetucking lengths and looping sequence.Collar and cuffs of any designs are produced here inthe flat bed m/cs. The jacquard design can be computerized and transferred to the knittingm/c by floppy disks. The yarn that used in the body fabric is also used in producing collar andcuff.

GSM:It is the critical parameter that is checked and controlled at different staged of

processing the fabric after knitting to finishing. Fabric GSM can be controlled by thefollowing ways:

By varying the loop length by VDQ pulley.By varying the no. of loops by needle gauge setting.

By using different count of yarn.

The yarn count, in all cases, has prescribed by the buyers. So m/c setting is the only wayto control the grey GSM. The final GSM in the finished fabric depend on the finishingtreatments and parameters of finishing machineries.

Fabric width:Fabric width can be controlled by changing cylinder diameter or by changing m/c.

RPM:M/c rpm is adjusted with the lead time for production. When lead time is very short then

rpm may increase at a certain level for definite count and strength of yarn. So it also dependson the yarn parameter and also with structure to be produced.

Loop length:Loop length determines the fabric GSM. It can be controlled by changing the dia of

VDQ pulley In Mayer & CIE m/c , it can be controlled digitally.

No. of feeder or no. of cone:It depends on the urgency of production, available cone packages, color to be knit and

structure of the fabric.

Gauge:

Needle gauge determines the no. of loops in a course which determines the GSM offabric.

Production calculation:1. Production = no. of needle x no of feeder x RPM x stitch length/ yarn count

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Production per shift in KG at 100% efficiency

RPM x no of feeder x no of needle x stitch length(mm) x 60 x 12=

10 x 2.54 x 36 x 840 x 2.2046 x yarn countKs X 590.5

2. Stitch length =Count (Ne) x GSM

Where,

Ks = knitting constant

Count = linear density of yarn

GSM = gm per square meter

Another formulae is

Stitch length = (Tex × Ks) / GSM

Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type. Ks iscalculated and estimated as below:

Ks = (GSM x Stitch length) / Tex

Fabric type Color Value of Ks

Single jersey Average 19.55

Single lacoste Average 22.4

Double lacoste Average 22.75

Polo pique Average 25

Plain interlock Average 39.3

1 X 1 rib Light 24.5

1 X 1 rib Average 26.5

3. Production/shift in meter:

100/1260.

/.min/

cmCourseEfficiencyFeederofNoRPM

cmCourseCourse

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4. Fabric width in meter:

Fabric type Yarncount

Stitchlength

Color D X G Finisheddia

FinishedGSM

Plain s/j 18s/1 2.94 White 26X24 30 inch 220-230

20s/1 2.98 White 30X24 33.5 inch 200-21024 s/1 2.68 White 30X24 32 inch 175-18526s/1 2.66 White 30X24 31 inch 160-17028s/1 2.70 Avg 26X24 25 inch 150-16030s/1 2.68 Avg 30X24 30 inch 130-14034s/1 2.40 Avg 26X24 24 inch 125-13540s/1 2.44 Avg 24X24 20 inch 100-110

1x1 Rib 26s/1 2.50 Avg 40X18 41 inch 24024s/1 2.75 Avg 30X18 64 inch 23526s/1 2.45 Avg 40X18 40inch 24526s/1 2.55 Avg 40X18 47inch 23526s/1 2.65 Avg 32X18 32inch 23036s/1 2.65 Avg 32X18 33inch 17024s/1 2.95 Avg 34X18 32inch 22024s/1 2.90 Avg 40X18 38inch 22528s/1 2.40 Avg 30X24 38.5inch 232

2X1 L Rib 34s/1 2.60 Avg 40X18 23inch 19034s/1 2.70 Avg 32X18 20inch 18540s/1 2.76 Avg 30X20 35”T 16028s/1 2.87 Avg 34X18 32”T 26026s/1 3.25 Avg 34X18 31”T 20524s/1 3.50 Avg 34X18 31.5”T 28520s/1 3.25 Avg 34X20 55”(op) 260

2X2 L/Rib 20/1+40D 3.10 Avg 30X18 18”T 39024/1+40D 2.90 Avg 30X18 18”T 32030/1+70D 2.90 Avg 30X18 18”T 32030/1+40D 2.98 Avg 26X18 18”T 24030/1+40D 2.80 Avg 26X18 18”T 240

Single lacost 18s/1 3.00 Avg 30X24 46 inch 245-25524s/1 2.64 Avg 30X24 40 inch 210-21526s/1 2.60 Avg 30X24 36inch 200-21030s/1 2.50 Avg 30X24 33inch 180-190

100/.

100/.

cmWalesknittingNeedlesofnoTotal

cmWaleswalesofnoTotal

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Following Counts are used to achieve the mentioned G.S.M:

Relation between yarn count, fabric type, stitch length and finishedGSM:

By the following three tables, we can summarize the above data:

For Single jersey-

FINISHED GSM COUNT FINISHED DIA

140 30/1 Machine dia=Finished dia

160 26/1 Machine dia+1=Finisheddia



220 18/1 Machine dia+5=Finished

For S/J with Lycra

Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count180-190 34s190-210 32s210-220 30s220-240 28s240-250 26s

For S/J without'Lycra

Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count

110-120 40ѕ -36s

120-130 36s-32s

130-140 32s-28s

140-150 28s

150-160 26s

170-210 24s

For Rib without Lycra:

Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count180-190 36s-32s

190-200 30s200-210 28s210-220 26s

220-250 24s250-300 24s

For interlock without Lycra

Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count200-220 34s220-230 32s230-250 30s250-300 26s

For Lacoste without Lycra

Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count

180-190 30s

190-210 28s

210-230 26s

230-250 26s

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For 1X1 Rib

Finished gsm Count Gauge Finished dia150-200 30/1 18 Machine dia

210-220 28/1 18 Machine dia

220-230 26/1 18 Machine dia+1

240-250 24/1 18 Machine dia+1/2

280-300 20/1 18 Machine dia+2/3

For Plain Interlock-

Finished gsm Count Gauge Finished dia

200 40/1 24 Machine dia

180 40/1 24 Machine dia+1

220-230 34/1 24 Machine dia+2

240-250 30/1 24 Machine dia+2/3

If the fabric is to be Enzyme washed, the stitch length should be kept (10%) less than thenormal range. Because, enzyme wash reduces the total weight of the fabric by removing thefloating fibre and hairy fibre.

For light color, the finished GSM varies near about 15-20% from grey GSMFor average color, the finished GSM varies 20-25%For dark color, grey GSM is kept less (i.e. the stitch-length is large) because take up% of darkcolor is more and the weight of dyed fabric will be increased.

dia

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If the GSM varies 25-30%, it is not only necessary to control the VDQ pulley dia but alsoyarn tension & take up roller.

Grey fabric introducing:Factors that should be considered for changing of fabric design on:

i) Cam arrangement changing.ii) Needle butt setting & needle dropping.iii) Using of different colors in selected feeder.iv) Using of jacquard mechanism.v) Size of the loop shape

Stitch Notation, Cam Arrangement & Needle Repeat Of Some Knitted Fabric:

FABRIC NAME: SINGLE LACOST

Stitch Notation:

Fig. Looping diagram

Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement:i) Using two track cams:

▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲

▲ T ▲ ▲ ▲

ii) Using three truck cams:

▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲

1

2

1

2

3

= Knit stitch

= Tuck stitch

K = Knit cam

T = Tuck cam

1 = 1 Butt Needle

2 = 2 Butt Needle

3 = 3 Butt Needle

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FABRIC NAME: DOUBLE LACOSTStitch Notation:



▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T

▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲

ii) Using three truck cams:

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T

▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T

Fig.- Cam arrangement Fig.- Needle arrangement

FABRIC NAME: SINGLE JERSEYStitch Notation:

▲ T ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲

= Knit stitch

= Tuck stitch

K = Knit cam

T = Tuck cam

1 = 1 Butt Needle

2 = 2 Butt Needle

3 = 3 Butt Needle

1

2

1

2

3

= Knit stitch

K = Knit cam

1 = 1 Butt Needle

2 = 2 Butt Needle

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▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲

Fig.- Cam arrangement

Fabric inspection :

Two ways of grey fabric inspection used to done by-

a) Auto turning fabric inspection m/c.b) Varivide colour assessment cabinet –2D-65, TL-84, TL-83, Florescent, UV.

Grey fabric faults :

Following faults are found in the grey fabric:

Problem Reason Remedy

1. Hole Broken needle head Change the needle

2. Missing yarn Missing of one end of doubleyarn

Careful observation and instantstop when fault found

3. Needle line Bent needle latch Replace the needle

4. Thick & thinyarn

Yarn fault Replace the yarn cone to amore uniform yarn cone

5. Slubs Yarn fault Replace the yarn cone to amore uniform yarn cone

1

2

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Remarks :

The Lay out plan of the machineries is well Micro Fiber Ltd. arranged. Thereare good number of textile machineries in the industry. They are adequate enough to take thehuge production of the industry. The efficiency of the worker should be increased for morequality production.

Chapter-05

Wet processing SectionFabric Dyeing Section:

Production flow chart for fabric Dyeing:

Grey fabric inspection

Batching

Pretreatment

Dyeing

Dewatering

Dewatering (Tube form) Dewatering(Open form)

6. Drop needle Needle fail to receive the yarnwhile knitting, needle missing

Reset the needle

7. Barriemark/patta

Irregular tension of take downroller

Adjust the take down tension orsynchronize the take downspeed with knitting

8. Pin hole Due to missing stiches or loop Concentrate on needle andlatch

9. Oil line Improper lubrication Proper lubrication

10. Fly contact Fly coming fro the adjacent m/c Separate one m/c from others

11. Oil stain Dirty m/c and improper handlingof fabric

Proper lubrication and cleanm/c

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Tension less dryer Slitting

Calendaring Stentering

Compacting Inspection

Inspection Packing

Packing Delivery

Delivery

Process sequence:

For Cotton Dyeing:

Pretreatment

Enzyme (anti pilling)

Dyeing

Soaping

Softening

Pretreatment:Two types of pretreatment are done in Micro Fibre Ltd.

1. Scouring-Bleaching2. Bio-Scouring (Bio polishing/ Enzyme treatment)

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Scouring-Bleaching:Pretreatment program: (scouring ,bleaching and enzyme)

Light color: M:L=1:10Fill water

Fabric load

SCF (0.25g/l)+2UD (0.25g/l)ACN+CBA (0.25+0.25g/l) ( Dosing 10mins)

Temp=60oc and run=20min

Drain

Fill water

SCF+InSA(0.65+0.65g/l) +ACN+CBA (1.25+1.25g/l) (Dosing 10mins at room temp)

Caustic Dosing at 40oc (1.8g/l)

Temp 70oc

Peroxide +stab (1.75+0.22g/l)

Temp=98oc and Run=50-60mins

Cooling at 80oc

Drain

Fill water

Green acid( 0.5 g/l)

OEM ( 0.3 g/l) dosing 20 minutes

Raise temp. 80oc and run 10 mins

Drain

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Fill water

Hot wash (95oc X 10mins)

Medium/deep color: M:L=1:8

Fill water

Fabric load

SCF (0.17g/l)ACN+CBA (0.425+0.425g/l) ( Dosing 10mins)

Temp=60oc and run=20min

Drain

Fill water

SCF+InSA(0.552+0.637g/l) +ACN+CBA (0.637+0.637g/l) (Dosing 10mins at room temp)

Caustic Dosing at 40oc (1.70g/l)

Temp 70oc

Peroxide +stab (1.70+0.212g/l)

Temp=98oc and Run=50-60mins

Cooling at 80oc

Drain

Fill water

Hot wash (95oc X 10mins)

Fill water

G. acid(0.697g/l) OEM ( 0.3 g/l) dosing 20 minutes

Raise temp. 80oc and run 10 mins

Drain

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Bio-Scouring:Process description of Bio-Scouring is same as normal pretreatment process. But in Bio-

Scouring process, we use only one auxiliary (MA-stab XLC), where in normal pretreatmentprocess ,we use more than one auxiliary.

Enzyme Treatment:

Process Description of ENZYME TREATMENT:

Light color: M:L=1:10 Or, Medium/deep color: M:L=1:8

Water fill

Green acid (0.4g/l)(Check PH)

MKL (0.3% owf)

Temp 55oc and Run 60mins

Drain

Ready for dyeing

Dyeing:Normaly for knit dyeing, there are many kinds of dyeing procedure such as Iso thermalprocess, Critical migration process, Exhaust method etc. In Micro Fibre they use Exhaustmethod for knit dyeing.

Dyeing program for Disperse Dyes:

Fabric treated with oxalic acid at 70°C for 20min

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Rinse for 5 min

pH is controlled at 4.0-4.2

Dyeing at 130°C temp for 40-50 min

Hot wash for 5 min

Reduction cleaning 80-90°C temp for 30 min

Neutralization/Hot wash

Softener at 60°C temp for 20 min

Drain the bath

Unload the fabric

Re-dyeing Process:

When shade is not matched then fabric is treated again in dyeing machine for shade matchingis known as re-dyeing.Generally, re-dyeing is done if the shade is deeper than the target shade. It may occur whenthe fabrics absorb one or two colors more or less. One re-dyeing process is described below.

- Drain the let off solution- Hot wash at 700-800C- Acid wash at 600-700C(600 for light shade & 700 for deep shade).- Soda ash washes at 900-1000C for 60mins to reduce the depth of shade.- Acid wash at 600C.- Addition to required dyestuffs.- Salt addition.- Soda ash addition.

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Other operations are same as previous described dyeing operations.

Stripping process:

Add water

Fabric load

TPA+G.ACID

Temp=90oC run=20min

Drain

Fill water

SCF+NaOH

Temp=98oC run=30min

Cooling at 80OC

Hydrose

Temp=98oC run=60min

Drain

Hot wash

Half scouring

Temp=98oC run=35-50min

Dyeing

After Treatment Of All Program:

For light color For Deep / Medium color

Recipe:

Antifixing agent (TPA)= 3.0g/l

A.Acid (G.Acid)= 3.0g/l

Wetting agent(SCF)= 0.2g/l

Hydrose= 4.0g/l

Caustic= 3.0g/l

Half scouring recipe:

SCF=0.26g/l

InSA=0.6g/l

ACN+CBA= 0.26+0.26g/l

Stab= 0.088g/l

Caustic= 0.72g/l

50% H2O2=0.7g/l

G.acid= 1.0g/l

OEM=0.12g/l

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C Neutralizer=0.425g/lTemp=60c-65c Run=20min

Hot Wash(AW-501=0.17g/l) Temp=60-65c Run=20

Temp=80c-90c

FS(10% Solution)=3-4g/lTemp=50Oc-For light colorTemp=60Oc –For deep color

PH=4.0-4.5 Fixing agent =0.425g/lRun =20min

Hot Wash

C Neutralizer=0.425g/l-0.552g/lTemp=60c-65c Run=20min

Hot Wash 90Oc-run 10min

(AW-501=0.255-0.425g/)

Fixing agent =0.425g/lTemp=50oc-60oc Run=20min

PH=5.0-5.5

FS(10%solution)=3-4g/lTemp=60oc run=20min

PH=4.0-4.5Temp=50c-60c Run=20min

After dyeing for neutralization:

For white(withoutenzyme)

For white(withenzyme)

Forlight color

Formedium color

Fordeep color

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A.Acid=1.5g/lTemp 65ocRun=20min

PH=4.5-4.8(By usingA.Acid)Temp 55ocRun=60min

C.Neutralizer=0.425g/lTemp 63-65ocRun=20min

C.Neutralizer=0.425-0.552g/lTemp 63-65ocRun=20min

C.Neutralizer=0.552g/lTemp 63-65ocRun=20min

For fixing:

For medium color For deep color

SR=0.425-0.85g/lTemp 50-60ocRun=20minPH=5.0-5.5(By using C.neu)

SR=1.275-1.7g/lTemp 50-60ocRun=20minPH=5.0-5.5(By using C.neu)

Softener solution(10% solution):

For white For light color For medium/deep color

WCS(10%Soln)=2.55-3.4owfTemp 60ocRun=20minPH=4.0-4.5(By usingA.Acid)

FS(10%Soln)=2.55-3.4owfTemp 50ocRun=20minPH=4.0-4.5(By usingC.neu)

FS(10%Soln)=2.55-3.4owfTemp 60ocRun=20minPH=4.0-4.5(By usingC.neu)

Common textile auxlliaries used in dyeing:

Acid - The chemical compounds that dissolve in water and provide H+(proton). It changesthe color of litmas paper from blue to red.Strong acids - completely ionized in water;For example: HClO4, Hl, HBr, HCl, HNOs, H2SO4, H3PO4Weak acids - partial ionized in water;For example: HF, H2S, HCN, HC2H3O2 and most organic acids.

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Alkalis - The chemicaL compound that dissolve in water and provide 0H- . It changes thecolor of litmas paper from red to blue.Strong alkalis - completely ionized in water;For example: NaOH, KOH, LiOH, Mg(OH)2 most metallic hydroxidesWeak alkalis - partial ionized in water;For example: NH4OH and most organic alkalis

Buffer - lt is a saturated solution of acid-salt or alkali-salt mixture. lt resists the change of pHon addition of acid or alkali. Usually it is used to control the any bath solution. Buffersolutions are solutions containing mixtures of a weak acid or base and a salt of that acid orbase. For exampre, the mixture of aceticacid and sodium acetate, which dissociates as:CH3COOH CH3COO - + H+

CH3COONa CHs COO - + Na+

Oxidizing agent - The chemical compound which provide oxygen during chemical reactionand converting to oxide, They gain electrons in a redox chemical reaction, for example, O3,H2O2, Ca0Cl2.

Reducing agent - The chemical compound which losses electron during chemical reaction.lt reduces other substances chemically, especially by donating an electron or electrons, forexample, Hydrose (Na2S2O4), Rongalite C.

Surfactants - Surfactants or surface-active agents act in solid-liquid, solid-gas, or liquid-gasinterfaces and reduces the interfacial tension. ln textile wet processing it works in betweensolid-liquid interface and reduce the surface tension of liquid. lt has a versatile application intextile industries especially in textile coloration, for example, Wetting agent, Detergent,Lubricant, Foaming agent, Anti-foaming agent, Leveling agent, Dispersing agent.

Wetting agent - lt accelerates the wetability of material in solution; thus helps to easypenetration of chemicals into substrate. Usually it is used in scouring, bleaching and dyeingprocesses. lt is available in market in form of clear or yellowish liquid.

Detergent - Detergents are one kind of surface active agents but the reverse is not alwaystrue. The surfactants which have detergency power and the number of carbon in aliphaticchain are not less than 9. Usually it is used in textile to clean the materials by removingundesirable substances. These products are either soaps or synthetic detergents.

Lubricant - The chemical compounds use to prevent contact between solid surfaces inrelative motion in order to reduce friction, wear, overheating, and rusting. They are very goodcoolants, provide the appropriate range of viscosities, and are thermally stable.

Anti-foaming agent - Anti-foaming agents are another type of surfactants which are able toprevent or reduce foam. Usually, anti-foaming agents are used in dyeing bath and in printingpaste to hinder foam generation. Excess foam generation can create adverse effect inprocessing and product.

Anti-creasing agent - Usually used in dye bath or in finishing stage to prevent creasing offabric or garments.

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Anti-pilling agent - Some man-made and blended fibre fabrics can easily form pills in theirsurface. Thus it reduces the aesthetic value of the fabric or garment. Anti-pilling agents areused to prevent such kind of pills formation during wearing of cloth.

Leveling agent - Leveling agent is used in textile coloration process to achieve uniformdyeing over the whole substrate by controlling the rate of dyeing. Generally it is a non-ionicsurfactants type compound either fibre substantive or dye substantive. lt is available in marketin liquid form.

Dispersing agent - usually it is used in disperse and vat dyeing process helps to distributethe dye molecules in dye bath. it is also help to penetrate the dye molecules into the substrate.lt is available in market in powder form.

Retarding agent - The chemical compound that are able to retard or control the dye uptakeinside of the fibre .Using retarders is very common in acrylic dyeingwith cationic dyes.

Carrier - Carriers are relatively small organic substances that usually have affinity forpolyester. lt acts as a catalyst to accelerate the dye penetration into the fibe in disperse dyeingprocess.

Chemical formula of common chemicals used in textile dyeing:Water – H2OHydrochloric acid - HCISulfuric acid –H2SO4Phosphoric acid – H3PO4Sodium chloride (common salt) - NaClSodium carbonate – Na2CO3Sodium sulfate (glauber salt) – Na2SO4Sodium bicarbonate – NaHCO3Sodium hydroxide - NaOHPotassium hydroxide - KOHSulfur dioxide – SO2Tri sodium Phosphate – Na3PO4Benzene – C6H6Acetic acid - CH3COOHOxalic acid - (COOH)2Cellulose – C6H10O5Starch - C6H10O5Hydros (sodium hydrosulfite) – Na2S2O4Bleaching powder- Ca(OCl)Cl

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Problems Encountered In Dyeing:Uneven Dyeing

1. It can be caused due to rapid addition of dyes and chemicals. For this purpose thedosing of soda ash should be maintained properly.2. Pressure difference.3. Over loading in the m/c.4. Yarn lot mixing.5. Improper control of temperature.6. Less amount of leveling agent.7. Improper pretreatment.

Uneven Shade in Rope to Rope1. Improper rope length in each chamber.2. Improper fabric flow speed in each nozzle.

Off Shade1. Improper M: L ratio.2. Lower amount of auxiliaries.3. Improper mixing of dyestuffs.

Dye SpotsThis is most common fault caused by operator not correctly mixing and thoroughly

dissolving dyestuffs in the right amount of water.Batch to Batch Shade Variation

If any of parameters of dyeing are changed then it will produce problems in batch tobatch consistency. In order to avoid this defect the following steps should be followed-

1. Maintain the same liquor ratio.2.Check that the fabric has the same dye affinity.3. Use the same standard program procedures for each batch.

4. Making sure that the operators add the right bach of chemicals at the same time &temperature in the process.

5. Check the water supply daily especially ph, hardness & Na2CO3 content.Crease MarkCrease marks are produced due to the lower concentration of anti creasing agent andimproper cooling rate (defective cooling gradient). This is encountered by increasing theconcentration of anti creasing agent and proper adjustment of cooling rate.Running Marks

Running marks are frequently related to the material construction and are caused bypoor opening of the fabric rope.

1. Reducing the machine load and running at a slightly higher nozzle pressure, orusing the next largest available nozzle size, may also help.

2. Either pre setting or pre relaxation of the fabric before dyeing can avoid thisproblem.

3. Running and crack marks can also be a result of incorrect process procedures. Ahigher fabric speed, combined with slower rates of rinse and cooling will often correct theproblem.

4. Care should be taken to check that bath draining temperatures are not very highespecially viscose blends are involved.

5. Shock cooling of static material will also cause crack marks.

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Intensive FoamingIn case of intensive foaming, which is caused when, the pumps try to pump a mixture

of air and water. This resets in the loss of nozzle pressure & floating of flake. If thefoaming is severe it is better to drop the bath & restart the process, after adding an antifoaming agent to the new bath.

Remarks:The production process, followed by the Dye-house of Micro fibre group is

impressive. The processes are being carried out very quickly and accurately. Due to theexcellence of process, machineries and lab trials very few cases of re-dyeing is performed

PrintingPrinting involves localized coloration. This is usually achieved by applying thickened pastescontaining dyes or pigments onto a fabric surface according to a given colour design. Inparticular, the viscosity of a print paste is critical. It determines the volume of pastetransferred to the fabric and the degree to which it spreads on and into the surface yarns. Thepaste must colour all the visible fibres on the printed surface, so it must penetrate somewhatinto the yarn structure. If the paste is too ‘thin’, it will spread, giving poor print definition,and penetrate too far into the yarns decreasing the colour yield.

The rapid development of CAD computer systems for print design has had a significantimpact on this activity. The development of digitised textile printing using, for example, inkjet printers is well underway. Such computer assisted manufacturing will considerablyinfluence the textile printing industry in the near future. Its other preoccupation, as for thedyeing industry in general, is that of reducing the amounts of biodegradable and potentiallyharmful chemicals in the effluent leaving the works so that its environmental impact islimited.Sample Preparation

After getting work order from product development dept.

Prepare design according to outwork

Screen preparation

Sample preparation

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Approved Sample

Bulk production

Bulk Production:Screen Preparation

Print Paste preparation

Printing is done on the mc or manually

Drying

Curing

Final Inspection

Available Printing Style in Micro Fibre LTDIn Micro fibre ltd 3 types of printing style are available. Which’s are Pigment printing,Discharge Printing, Reactive Printing. There are also Titanium printing, Glitter printing andKhari Printing. Mostly pigment printing is available there. Discharge printing is used fordyed fabric print and Reactive Printing is used for sharp and accurate design. Print pasterecipe is given below as per Micro Fibre Group.

Types of Printing in Micro Fibre Group:1. Reactive printing2. discharge printing3. pigment printing

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Reactive printing:

Print steam(102oc) washing finishing(stenter) compacting Delivery

Discharge printing:

Print steam(102oc) curing(155-160oc) washing finishing(stenter)

Delivery compacting

Pigment printing:

Print curing(155-160oc) finishing(stenter) compacting Delivery

Print curing(155-160oc) washing finishing(stenter) compacting Delivery

Recipe of Pigment paste: Binder: 10.00% Hi soft: 00.50% Glycerin: 01.00% Liquor Ammonia: 01.00% Thickener(Lotacgol hit): 05.00% Color: Required amount to match the color

Recipe of Discharge paste: Binder: 20.00% Urea: 10.00% Disgrason DS: 10.00% Discharge gum: 03.00% Glycerin: 01.00% Antifoaming agent: 00.10% Color: Required amount to match the color

Recipe of reactive Paste: Sodium Alginate: 04.40% Sodium Bi-carbonate: 04.50% H. agent: 10.00% Ludigal: 01.20% Kerosene(Fixing agent): 00.90% NB: 03.00% SF: 00.20% Color: Required amount to match the color

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Pollutants during printing process:Drying and fixing are another important emission source in printing processes. The followingpollutants may be encountered in the exhaust air [179, UBA, 2001]:

aliphatic hydrocarbons (C10-C20) from binders monomers such as acrylates, vinylacetates, styrene, acrylonitrile, acrylamide,

butadiene methanol from fixation agents other alcohols, esters, polyglycols from emulsifiers formaldehyde from fixation agents ammonia (from urea decomposition and from ammonia present, for example,

in pigment printing pastes) N-methylpyrrolidone from emulsifiers phosphoric acid esters phenylcyclohexene from thickeners and binders.

Finishing sectionTextile finishing , in a restricted sense , is the term used for a series of processes towhich all bleached , dyed , printed and certain grey fabrics are subjected before theyare put on the market . In fact , finishing includes the final treatment of every kind offabric made from every kind of fiber .

Objective of finishing:- Improving the appearance – Lustre , whiteness , etc .- Improving the feel , which depends on the handle of the material and its

softness , suppleness , fullness , etc .- Wearing qualities , non – soiling , anticrease , antishrink , comfort , etc .- Special properties required for particular uses – water – proofing , flame –

proofing , etc. .- Covering of the faults in the original cloth.- Increasing the weight of the cloth.

Types of finishing:

1) Chemical finishing: Chemical reaction of auxiliaries with fibers.2) Application of the handle modifying products / additives.3) Mechanical finishing: Mechanical treatment with machines. Finishing effects Easy – care Crease recovery. Dimensional stability. Good abrasion resistance. Improved tear strength. Good sewability

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Dyed Fabric from Dyeing Department

Shade check

Dewatering

Slitting

Stentering/Dryer

Open compactor

Final Inspection

Packing

Delivery

Drying

Calendering & compactor

Final Inspaction

Packing

Delivery

Dewatering

Tubular formOpen with

Soft or stiff handle. Shine or luster

After dyeing knit fabric is required to finish. During eyeing all knit fabric are dyed intubular form. According to buyer’s requirement knit fabric are finished in open formor tubular form.

Flow chart of final process (knit fabric)

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Finishing section is Divided into two section, they are:

-Open line

-Tube line

The machines that are used in open line that are given bellow:1. Slitting m/c

2. De-watering m/c

3. Stenter

5. Compactor

The machines that are used in tube line that are given bellow:1. De-watering m/c

2. Dryer

3. Calendering & Stentering

Dewatering and Slitting unit

Machine Specification:Machine name: Dewatering / Detwisting,

Manufacturer: Ruckh Calator,

Origin: Sweden

Production capacity: 10 M. Ton / Day

Quantity: 01

Machine name: Open Width De-watering + Slitting, BIANCO, ITALY

Manufacturer: BIANCO,

Origin: ITALY

Serial Number: M03066-016261

Construction year: 2003

Max speed: 90m/min

Production capacity: 10 M. Ton / Day

Quantity: 02

After finishing the dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics are ready for de-watering . This is the process to remove the water from the fabric completely by squeezing.This is the main function of the de-watering machine.

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Feature:

Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing

Delivered fabric is crease free state

Before squeezing ballon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by anozzle

It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feedingmechanism

To impart soft finish to the fabric

To open the fabric from tubular form to open width form

Fabric is cut according to the needle mark.

During slitting: Controlling point

S/J :50m/min to 60m/min

Rib, interlock : 80m/min

Max dia: 45inch

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During Dewatering: Controlling point

Maximum speed: 30-35 m/min

Pressure required for RIB 3-3.5Kg

Pressure required for Single jersy 2 Kg

Pressure required for Lycra 2.5-3 Kg

Chemical used:1. Softener (10g/l)2. Acetic acid (1g/l)

Power consumption:Voltage: 400VFrequency: 50HzMaximum power: 24kwattManpower Required:

Worker: 02

Utilities:1. Electricity2. Processed air (to form the tube fabric into ballon with a view to

remove crease)

Control system:1. Overfeed control2. Pressure3. Speed control4. Width control

Squeezer Machine:

Object:1. Reduce water content.2. Apply chemicals specially to make the fabric soft.

Chemical solution:10% solution of softener1% solution of soapFor S/J 1KG softner in 9liter water and 500gm soap in 5 liter water to make solution

For collar Sequetering agent 0.5gm/l, anticreasing agent 1gm/l

Control point:1st Squeeze roller pressure: 700-1000PSI or 5-7Bar

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2nd Squeeze Roller pressure: 500-700PSI or 3.5-5Bar

Hydro-extractor m/c

Object:1.Extract water content from fabric.

Dryer m/c :

Object: To dry the wet fabric

High Production Dryer:

Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion is evaporated from the fabric.Functions:

1. To dry the fabric with the help of steam2. To control the shrinkage3. To prepare the fabric for next subsequent process4. To dry fabric without tension

Main parts of the machine:1. Heating chamber2. Blower3. Synthetic blanket as a conveyor4. Folder5. Exhaust fan

Heating system:1. Gas fired

Utility:1. Gas (to make fire)2. Electricity (to rum the machine)3. Compressed air (to spread the fire)

Setting according to fabric construction:Fabric type Speed m/min Temperature Over feed speed (%)Single jersey 15-17 140 20Interlock 20 – 22 140 25 – 30Rib 10 140 15 – 20T/C P/CViscose

20 – 23 130 40 – 45

Lacoste 30 140 40 – 45Collar 20 140 40 – 45Lycra 17 130 30 – 40

Checking parameters:

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Shade Check Width check Weight check Compaction check Edge check

Find out the limitations and faults of the machine and advise for removing these.i) Selvedge drying system is not properly functioning.ii) Maximum over feed of the machine is +60%.iii) When the steam temperature is 1000C-1200C, then delivered fabric temperature is

45-500C. But there is no cooling zone in this machine to reduce the excesstemperature. So a cooling zone in delivery zone can be attached.

Calendar M/C:

It is a finishing process used on cloth where fabric is folded in half and passed under rollers athigh temperatures and pressures.The calendering finish is easily destroyed, and does not last well. Washing in water destroysit, as does wear with time.calendering, a finishing process by which paper, plastics, rubber, or textiles are pressed intosheets and smoothed, glazed, polished, or given a moiré or embossed surface. The material ispassed through a series of rollers; the resulting surface depends on the pressure exerted by therollers, on their temperature, composition, and surface designs, and on the type of coating orglaze previously applied to the material to be calendered.Export oriented fabrics are not gonein calendering process.Compacting fabrics are gone in calendering process.

Object of calendaring:

The fabric is run through rollers that polish the surface and make the fabric smootherand more lustrous. High temperatures and pressure are used as well. Fabrics that gothrough the calendering process feel thin, glossy and papery.

To improve attractiveness. To cause a closing threads together by flattening and thus tending to fill up the inter

stitches between warp and weft. To produce smooth and glossy luster appearance on the surface of fabric.

Width Compactor

During fabric formation processes, stresses often are introduced into a textile. Such stressescan be controlled by drying the finished fabric on a stenter frame, which controls the width ofthe fabric and the tension on the fabric during the drying process. A second method involvescompression the fabric structure, as in the Sanforizing process. In this process, the fabric andbacking blanket (rubber or wool) is fed between a feed roller and a curved braking shoe, withthe blanket being under some tension. The tension on the blanket is released after passing thefabric and blanket between the roller and braking shoe. The net result is compaction of thefabric being carried along in the sys· tem. Such a simple technique permits fabrication of thefabric of finished textile goods without fear of excessive shrinkage on laundering. Proteinhair fibers such as wool, and thermoplastic fibers such as polyester, can be compacted byfelting action.

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The scale structures on protein fibers entangle and stick on agitation, particularly in thepresence of moisture. The resulting "ratcheting" effect causes the fibers to compact and felt.Many processes for wool take advantage this effect, and nonwoven felt structures areproduced by this method. Compaction of thermoplastic structure occurs when the fibers areraised to near their softening point. At a sufficiently high temperature the fibers shrink andcontract, causing compaction of the textile structure.

After drying the fabric from stenter, it is passed through compactor to control shrinkage. Knitfabrics have higher tendency to shrink so its compaction is very important to maintain theminimum quality. ln compactor the fabric is steamed to regain moisture and the introducedto the competing rolls. Here the feed roll turns faster than the second roll. An endless belt isfed over rollers in such a way that the belt can be elongated at stretch; the fabric is introducedbetween the belt and a heated drum. After passing from the contact of the drum the belt canshrink and compress the fabric, thus the compactor control the fabric shrinkage.

Function:1. To compact the fabric2. To control the shrinkage3. To maintain proper width and G.S.M

Main parts of tube-tex machine:1. Heating chamber2. Blower3. Synthetic blanket as a conveyor,4. Folder5. Exhaust fan

Main Parts: (Lafer Compacting Machine)

Heat Padder: Control Motor Speed. Heat Chamber: Three.

1. Lower Padder2. Stenter3. Compactor

Main Power Blanket: For finishing Cloth. Guide Roller Clip: Straighten the fabric Wheel raising Steam Box: soften the fabric Load Cell: Keep the delivery Roller for perfect tension. Temperature: 1500C (Highest) Speed: 50 M/Min Overfeed % Up: More the Overfeed % Up More the GSM. Steam Pressure: Up to 10 Kg

In Tube-tex compactor m/c fabric spread range:

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Fabric dia (inch) Maximum spreading (inch)14” 17”16” 19”17” 20”19” 25”22.25” 28.25”26” 36.38”34.75” 47”45” 57”48.25” 60”

For different type of fabric speed and compaction (TUBE TEX):

Fabric Type Speed ( r.p.m ) Compaction

S/J 20 8-9 %Lycra S/J 25 7-10 %1*1 Rib 30 8 -11 %Single lacoste 30 10 -14 %2×2 Rib 30 -35 6-7 %

Double lacost 30 -35 12 %Pk. Fabric 30 10 -12 %

Interlock 30-35 9 – 12%

Tube-tex consists of five major parts and these are –

1. Shaper : It looks like a ladder which straightens the fabric and passingthrough the pulley.

Shaper

2. A pair of pulley : It controls the fabric width according to the buyer’srequirements .

Fabric3. Steam zone : It is given steam on the fabric surface for softness which helps in

compacting zone to compact the fabric .

Steam spray on fabric surface

+ +

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4.Compacting zone :

It consists of edge roller, retard roller, steel plates and compacting shoe . Fabric’s shrinkage ,finished G.S.M and dia permanent by compacting shoe & edge roller at 950c. Steel plateremove the crease mark on the fabric surface and retard roller smooth the upper portion ofthe fabric surface at 950c .

Steel plate Compacting shoeFa Fabric

Edge rollerRetard roller

Fabric deliverySteel plate

5. Folding zone : Here fabric folding fan moving to and foe movement and fold the fabricevenly .

Overfeed % Up Setup for Lafer compacting Machine:

Overfeed % Up for Lycra Single Jersey:60

Overfeed % Up for Single Jersey: 35/40.

Overfeed % Up for Lacost fabric :35/40

Overfeed % Up for Rib fabric :20/22

Overfeed % Up for CVC fabric:45

Utilities used: Electricity Steam Compressed air

Control Point :- Water pressure- Air pressure- Steam pressure

Checking parameters: Shade Check Width check Weight check Compaction check Edge line Checking Fault check

Stentering Machine

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Stenter is a very important and essential machine. stenter plays a big role to achieve thedesired width and GSM of the fabric and widely used for heat setting of fabrics containinglycra. Normally after dewatering most of the water is removed from the fabric but still acertain amount of water remains in the fabric. in stenter the remaining amount of water isremoved by passing the fabric through a sufficient number of heated chambers. Duringdrying in stenter the fabric attain its desired diameter and GSMPurpose of the m/c:

i) Dryingii) GSM control: If overfeed increases,then GSM increases and vice

versa.iii) Width control :The width is controlled by means of

Spreader,Expander.iv) Shrinkage controlv) Decrease spriralityvi) Decrease Bowing effectvii) Softener applicationviii) Surface coating for Teflon finishix) Soil release chemical finishx) Heat set for cotton lycra fabric

Main parts of the machine:

i) Feed zone- Centering device

ii) Chemical padding zone- Squeezing roller- Chemical tray

iii) Bowing control zone- Bowing roller (rubber roller, no of roller -2)- Sensor (no of sensor -6)- Uncurling roller

iv) Chain entry zone- Uncurling device (both side of the chain entry)- Sensor (both side of the chain entry)- Brush roller (for attaching the fabric with the pin of the chain, no of brush roller- Selvedge gumming device with gum box under the chain entry

v) Drying zone- Gas rotamatic burner (10)

vi) Cooling zonevii) Delivery zoneviii) Relax R/rix) Padderx) Pin rollerxi) PLC profivassleeve converter.xii) Plaiter rollerxiii) Take up rollerxiv) Wheel

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Heating system: Gas Burner

Gripping system of fabric edges: pinning

Utilities used: Electricity Gas Steam

Controlling points: Fabric speed Fabric width Temperature Overfeed %

Checking parameters: Shade Check Width check Weight check Compaction check Fault check : Operator checks -

Knitting faults Spinning faults Dyeing faults Other faults

Chemical used during finishing:

For 250kg fabric:In 200ltr water 24kg FS(softener) 1.6kg EAS(silicon) 1.6kg PE40(silicon) 50gm acidic acid

For 500kg fabric: 36kg FS(softener) 2.4 kg EAS(silicon) 2.4kg PE40(silicon) 75gm acidic acid

For 1000kg fabric: 60kg FS(softener) 4 kg EAS(silicon) 4kg PE40(silicon) 130gm acidic acid

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Procedure for Heat set for Lycra s/j fabric:

GSM COLOR HEATSETTEMP

DELIVERYDIA

OVERFEED

SPEEDm/min

AFTERHEATSETGSM

LESSFROMREQUIREDGSM

240-230

White &light

190OC +15% 40/18/25 20 185 20-25

Average 190OC +15% 40/18/25 20 180 20-25R/black 190OC +15% 30/15/20 20 160 25

210-220

White &ligh

180OC +15% 40/18/25 20 165 20-25


190-200

White &ligh

185OC +15% 40/18/25 20 150 20-25


160-170

White &ligh

185OC +15% 40/18/25 20 130 20-25


150 White &ligh

190OC +15% 40/18/25 20 100 20-25


Heat set for other fabrics:

Lycra French terry:Temp: 190OC(depth color), 185OC (light color)Over feed: 40/18/25GSM After heat set: 50-55 less

Lycra viscose:Temp: 195OCOver feed: 40/18/25Stretch: 40%Delivery dia: +32% to +37%Speed: 20m/min

Lycra rib:Temp: 195OC

Over feed: 40/18/25Stretch: 35%Speed: 30m/min

Rules for heat set fabric:1. Temp constant(give in heat set process)

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2. Speed always constant3. Over feed

A. For white & average colori. Standard: 40/18/25

ii. Minimum: 30/15/20iii. Maximum: 50/25/25

B. For black coloriv. Standard: 30/15/20v. Minimum: 20/12/18

vi. Maximum: 50/25/25

4. Stretch:i. Maximum: 35% to 40%

ii. Minimum: 18%

5. After heat set fabric dia (delivery)i. Maximum: given in heat set procedure

ii. Minimum: 14% of m/c dia

6. GSMi. White color: required GSM (less 50 to 55)

ii. Average color: required GSM (less 60 to 65)iii. Black color: required GSM (less 75 to 80)

Factor Consideration:

Shrinkage control:

-Shrinkage is controlled by proper over feeding.-To apply less or more over feed speed fabrics reduce along to length and increase along towidth. Maximum 70 – 75% shrinkage is controlled by using it.

GSM Control:

-GSM is also controlled by applying proper over feeding speed.-If over feed is more then GSM is also more.-If Over feed speed is less then GSM is also is less.-If Dia is more then GSM of the fabric will less.-If Dia is less then the GSM of the fabric will more.

N.B: If GSM of the fabric is OK then shrinkage is also OK.

Dia Control:-Dia is controlled by dia controlling meter scale.-If any fault, GSM of the fabric is reduced then to increase the GSM of the fabric dia willhave to be reduced (2 – 3) inch.-If Over feed speed is more then Dia of the fabric will be more.-If Over feed speed is less then Dia of the fabric will be less.-If length is more then width of the fabric is reduced.

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-If length is less then width of the fabric is more.

N.B: Fabric speed is controlled on the fabric dia. Here, Dia less or More fully depends onyarn count and buyer order. Dia is done less or more by using expander rod.

Fabric Dia(Increase)Single jersey 1.5 – 2 ) inch +.Rib fabric 2 – 2.5 inch +.Interlock 3 – 3.5 inch +.Pique 3 – 3.5 inch +.

Over feed:

-GSM Control.-Shrinkage Control.-Dia Control.Depends on Dia:

Fabric Over Feed Speed(m/min)Lycra 30 – 351×1 Rib 28 – 30Single jersey 26 – 272×2 Lycra rib 23 – 24Lacoste 23 – 24Normal over feed speed 22/23/24/25

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CHAPTER-6

Garments sectionIntroduction

Bangladesh is one of the leading readymade garments exporters of the world.Every year Bangladesh exports more than one third of the total garmentsrequirement of the RMG market of the world. Every year Bangladesh earnsmore than 76% of its foreign currency from this sector. That is way the study ofgarments technology does deserve well practical practice. So our universityprovides 6 weeks industrial training in a RMG factory. The industrialattachment is the process, which builds understanding, skills and attitude ofthe performer, which improves his knowledge in boosting productivity andservices. University education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as wellas more practical attachment, in despite of all these industrial attachmenthelps us to be familiar with technical support of modern machinery, skill nessabout various processing stages.

It also provides us sufficient practical knowledge about productionmanagement, work study, efficiency, industrial management, purchasing,utility and maintenance of machinery and their operation techniques etc. theabove mentioned cannot be achieved successfully by means of theoreticalknowledge only. This is why it should be accomplished with practicalknowledge in which it is based on. Industrial attachment makes us reliable tobe accustomed with the industrial atmosphere and improve courage andinspiration to take self responsibility. As a student of Garments ManufacturingTechnology we have got an opportunity to complete this training in MicroFibre Ltd. The vision the Garment Division is to become the preferred partnerfor sourcing high quality value added garments from Bangladesh.

Sample Section

Introduction:

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Sample section is the important section in Micro Fibre Ltd. Here all types of sampleare developed. Sometime developing section help to develop a new type of sample. Here theoperator and the managerial level are very much efficient than the other section. Here theoperator is selected according to their work efficiency and also the experience. Skilledoperator is allowed to work in this section. Because sample must has to be unique and thebest quality, out looking also be very good. Without a skilled setup this is impossible. It isseen that an operator can make a whole garment. In the floor level one operator always tohis/her job with one component all the time, for this to make that portion that operator needless time. But in sample section time required to make a garment, one operator need muchmore time than the floor level operator. This section must involve with the merchandisingsection. According to the buyer requirement on the basis of art work and the measurement listgiven by the buyer an operator can make a whole garment. If an operator cannot understandthe technical term in the technical sheet, he/ she must consult with the manager/asst.Manager/ co-coordinator. Here the sewing machine sequence is not maintained. As perrequirement operator can change the machine if that is available to use. There is a table forchecking the ready sample before it sends to the merchandising section.

Process Sequence:

The pieces of the garment supply from the pattern section

Pieces are sewn by the skilled operator.

Attach the button as required

Iron the garment

Send to the merchandiser

The Topic I was familiar with:

Types of machine.

Types of operation

Types of fabric

Measurement

Checking Procedure

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Types of print

Types of machine:

Rib Cutter For Neck Plain Machine Over Lock Machine Flat Bed Machine Cylinder Bed Machine Button Hole Machine Button Attaching Machine Steam Iron

Types of Fabric: Single jersey Single jersey lycra 11 Rib 22 Rib Verigated Rib Interlock Pique Polo

IE (Industrial Engineering)INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING:T he main function of this department is to re-engineering the garments from the samplingstage so that it would be production friendly for the production as well helps to increase theproductivity through machine layout, time and motion study.

In the sewn problems industries we must continually ensure that we remain competitive andprofitable whilst also striving to improve our personal and community's standard of living.Productivity improvements may be achieved through:Industrial Engineering Department: To follow up the production process Work process development SMV calculation and line target

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Efficiency control Time study Capacity study Workers training M/C sequence lay out Thread consumption Operator interview

Duties and Activities of a Work Study Officer: Style details collect SMV make Layout make Machine arrange Attend P.P meeting First week production plan Line feeding Work aid arrange Method study and take video and record Time study Line capacity find out Bottle neck operation find out Individully follow up bottle neck operation and try to increase production Capacity and efficiency wise target setting and try to achiving Line balancing Motivation the worker Maximum time stay in production line and try to solve any kinds of production

related problem Monitoring the production achievement hourly and daily Loss time record Overally,try to increases the productivity.

All work study techniques are classified into two main groups the specimenbellows by typical:

METHODSTUDY

↓ Layout Work flow Machinery Standardize method Capital investment appraisal Attachment Sewing method specification

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WORKMEASUREMENT

↓ Hourly targets Production checks Line balancing Training curves Maintain payment systems Time standards

Line balancing:

Line balancing is the allocation of sewing m/c according to style and design of garments. Itdepends of that what type of garments we have produce.

Objectives of line balancing:

Regular mtl flow Maximum usage of man power and m/c capacity Minimum process times Minimizing workstations Maximum outputs at the desired timed Agreed quality maintenance of the garments

CAD SectionIntroduction:

In Echo Tex Ltd. Auto CAD (Computer Aided Design) is an important section. Hereall the consumption is done. With the measurement of the different parts of a garment by thehelp of CAD system software pattern & marker can cut or make. Here with the combinationof the parts of a garment efficient marker can make for cutting purpose. By creating gradingfrom one size different size can create by the software.

CAD System Software: Two systems are available

1. Lectra System, made in France

2. Garber System, made in USA

Machines in CAD section:

Purpose Machine Name Quantity

Marker make Garber plotter (Width=72 inch) 1

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Process Sequence: CAD section

Pattern for a specific garmentor manually sketch the different parts in the computer

Keep those separately on digitizer board (for pattern)

With the help of sensor system input the actual measurement of those parts

Resize and give a shape for marker

Grading

Efficient format for making the marker

Make marker with the help of Lectra or Garber system

Efficiency Measure:

Formula: Total marker efficiency = Area of pattern in the marker plan 100%Total area of the marker plan

Efficiency (usually get)For Tank top - 75%For trouser - 78%For t shirt - 85%For polo shirt - 85%

N.B.: If a garment consist smaller parts then there efficiency is higher than the larger parts ofa garment.

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Cutting Section

Introduction:

Cutting section is the most important and risky section in garment industry. For a littlemistake full order may be cancelled. With the false measurement a big portion of garmentmay employed. With very care this section is handled.

In Echo Tex Ltd. there consists 9 cutting table. From the CAD section marker comesout. For stripe & verigated rib fabric there is no marker use because if use the marker forstripe fabric, frequently don’t match the stripe of one side to the other. This is a buyerrequirement to match the stripe. Manually the stripe fabric is spreader out on the cuttingtable. Only marker is used for the solid dyed fabric. Normally big marker length is 5.5 yards& thickness of lay is 4 inch.

Straight Knife Cutting Machine:In Echo Tex Ltd. all the fabric is cut down with the Straight Knife Cutting Machine

by the help of skilled operator. Here use a blade which is very sharp and change this on thebasis of fabric quantity & composition, normally in every after 4 days. Here, in the belowgive a short description on this machine:

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Fig: Straight Knife Cutting Machine(Km Cloth Cutting Machine)

Machine Parts :

Base plate Terminal Block Plug Crosshead Assay Clamp Washer Knife Clamp Stud Presser Foot Blade Sharpener Pulley S/Pulley – Right Pulley Spring On/Off Switch Lift Handle

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Fig: Straight Knife Cutting Machine

Machine name: K.M. Company cloth cutting Machine

Model : KM KS-AUV

Producer : Made By K.M. Cutting Machine Co, JAPAN

Price : US $189.00

Type : Heavy Duty Industrial Cloth Cutting Machine Self Sharpening.

Dimension : 8" W x 11" L x 24" H (weight 33.5Lb)

Current : A. C (3.3/2.6 amps)

Speed : 3000/ 3600

Fig: Main Motor Portion Fig: Blade Portion

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Short Note:

Machine power up, Motor run smooth and powerful. Blade moved as it should, Thesharpening mechanism came down. Machine is very well made, looks like a top of the lineproduct. Is has a very good appearance and seems to be working fine.

Advantages:

As it is comparatively cheaper, easy moveable and maximum lay height couldbe cut, used extensively in garment industries.

Could cut fabric at more curved line than the round knife.

Cutting could be done for up to 10 inch depth of the lay.

Quick fabric cutting.

Components could be cut out directly from the fabric lay.

Grinding could be done during cutting.

Could be cut at any angle.

Disadvantages:

Knife deflection may result due to heavy weight of the motor.

Higher the depth of the lay, higher will be the deflection.

Possibility of accident is higher.

REQUIREMENTS FOR FABRIC CUTTING

The following points must be fulfilled in fabric cutting:

1. Precision of fabric cutting: Fabric cutting should be done accurately as per exactdimension of the pattern pieces in the marker. Accurate cutting depends on methodsof cutting and marker planning. If manual cutting method is used, then cuttingaccuracy depends on sharpness of knife, skill of operator, and attentiveness ofoperator. Computer controlled cutting and die cutting have their self cutting accuracy.

2. Consistent cutting: Whatever be the cutting method used for fabric lay cutting, itshould be ensured that the shape of the cut components from top to bottom lay are ofexact size and shape, otherwise the garments produced will be defective.

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3. Infused edge: During fabric cutting, the friction between the fabric and the bladeproduces temperature in the blade; the temperature may be up to 3000C. If the fabriccontains synthetic fibres e.g. nylon, polyester, acrylic or their blends, then fused edgemay result in the fabric. As because most of those fibres melt at around 2500C.Therefore, sticking of cut edge of fabric will increase the fabric wastage. Moreover,the fused edge after cooling will form hard bid, which will be a problem of irritationduring use of garments. To avoid the problem of fused edge formation, the followingsteps may be taken:

1. Reduce the height of the lay;

2. Reduce the cutting speed;

3. Use anti-fusion paper in the lay at regular interval;

4. Lubricate the knife during cutting.

4. Supporting of the lay: Surface of the cutting table depends on methods of fabriccutting. The table surface should be capable to support the lay as well as to ensure thatall the plies are cut at a time during fabric cutting.

In Micro Fibre Ltd. the sequence of the operation in Cutting Section is asfollows -

FLOW SEQUENCE OF CUTTING

Fabric inspection

Fabric send to store

Fabric received from store

Marker making

Fabric spreading

Setting marker on the fabric lay

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Fabric cutting

Numbering

Prepared the bundling card

Bundling

Quality inspection & front part- back part are fold together

Store

Fabric inspection

1. GSM Check

2. Dia Check

3. Fault Check

4. Point Calculation

5. Four point system calculation

6. Prepared fabric inspection report

7. Prepared weight sheet

8. Send to store (With Weight Sheet)

Fabric received from store

Marker making

Marker paper not used

Fabric spreading

Before fabric laying a thin paper as like as marker that is marker size and thin paper size issame, then thin paper attach with spreading table by gum tape then spread the fabricaccording to marker size.

Setting marker on the fabric lay

Spread down the marker paper over the fabric lay with gum tape.

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Fabric cutting

Fabric lay is cut ting by straight knife cutting machine then separated cutting part.

Numbering

In this stage sticker is attached with all part of cutting part for shade matching. The stickernumber maintains cutting number, size number, serial number.

Prepared the bundling card

Prepared bundling card according to fabric lay report this card maintain

1. Program No2. Cutting No3. Size No4. Pies5. Roll No

Bundling

In this stage all number parts are bundled according to serial number.

Quality inspection &front part-back part are fold together

Here all part are checked according to following fault

17. Oil spot18. Dirty spot19. crease mark20. needle mark21. foreign yarn22. slub23. contamination24. holeThen same number of sticker are matched fold & bundled

After Cutting store

All bundles are put in the input rack then send to sewing section

LIMITATIONS OF CUTTING SECTION

1. Input problem.

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2. Scissor man cuts the tubular fabric to spread randomly and send to cutting floor

and then find out the desired fabric to lay on the table.

3. There is may be no group for any table

4. Quality inspection & front part & back part are fold together. The faulty body

parts are rejected but the rest ok body is not match by the same batch.

5. Cutting quality man may not be trained

6. Check, Varigated rib fabric lay quantity may be excess. As a result reject

percentage may be increased.

7. Fabric spreading

8. There is may be no identification number to the rest of the cutting piece of the

lay

9. There is no individual marker man for any unit.

10. Three cutting man cuts the fabric according to the marker.

11. Four man working with numbering m/c to sort out the cut fabric.

12. Two man preparing the bundle cards by writing on a piece of fabric

13. In this stage four men bundled the parts according to serial number.

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Sewing Section

Introduction:

Sewing section is the crowdest section in Micro Fibre Limited. All day long theremachines are ruined according to the plan. From the cutting section the cutting parts ofdifferent garment has brought in sewing section to sew. First of all machine is set outaccording to requirement. In this chapter I will try to give some flow chart of the differentgarment item sewing along with the machine lay out plan.

In sewing machine normally the following machine is used:

1. Plain Machine (S/N)2. Double Needle Machine (D/N)3. Overlock Machine (O/L)4. Flat lock Machine (F/L)5. Kanshai Machine6. Button Hole Machine7. Button join Machine8. Rib Cutter Machine9. Bartack Machine (B/T), etc.

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Sewing Procedure Flow Chart:-

Input taken and sample arrange

↓Cutting

↓Store

↓Cutting

↓Sewing

↓Store

↓In line work

↓Lay out submit

↓PP meeting

↓Label check

↓Sewing start

↓During sewing

↓Out put

↓Finishing

↓Ship the Goods

Sewing Procedure:

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Input Taken and Sample arrange-

Input taken will provide by planning department with ensure the shipment

date, size, break-down according to manpower of that line and confirm the

checklist sheet of store is ok.

As per input taken planner will provide sample from sample department.

AQC will select the PP sheet and other necessary papers in the mentioned

style.

Cutting:

Input man collects size-wise information from cutting section for giving the

requisition in store for accessories (label, button, twill-tape etc.)

Store:

From store it has to ensure all the accessories if the mentioned style is in the

house.

As per requisition store will start to arrange the accessories. One requisition is given for thread.

Cutting:

Input man will collect the size-wise input by counting which is confirmed by

cutting section.

Pre-work, printing, embroidery and other parts have to give by accurate check

and counting as per input quantity which will taken by sewing input man.

Sewing:

Input man put the input in rack by size-wise.

Store:

Store will provide all the accessories as per requirement of the inputted

quantity and input man take accessories by counting.

Thread will collect by the sewing input man from ground floor.

In line work:

After getting all necessary things Supervisor will start paper layout and take

necessary actions to avoid the problems which can be affected during pick

production line.

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Layout submits:

Before start the production, supervisor submit the layout sheet in IE and

maintenance department.

PP meeting:

Before starting the sewing in the line of the new style it has to be conduct pp

meeting to avoid the missing of buyer comments or requirement.

Label check:

AQC check the label against trim card and give the permission to start the

sewing.

Sewing start:

It is mentioned that sewing will start by size wish which quantity is large.

During sewing:

Supervisor and line-chief doing the major job during the sewing. They always try to solve the up-coming problem. Maintain the hourly production with right quality.

Output:

After doing all processes and quality check garments will stored in output table. Reporter will collect the garments from output table.

After collecting the garments, reporter will count and delivery the goods in

finishing section by size wise.

Finishing

Finishing will ensure that the size wise quantity is ok as per order quantity.

If there any size missing or size wise breakdown not accurate as per order quantity

they have to inform the respective production officer.

Ship the Goods

As per order quantity finishing will complete Carton and make as final

inspection.

After final inspection goods will delivery for shipment.

WORK AIDS IN SEWING

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Experiment has proved that operators spend about 20% of their total time for sewing and therest 80% time is spent for fabric handling i.e. fabric folding, positioning, cut threads, bundletransferring, etc. Scientists invented some components to reduce the fabric handling time,which are called work aids in sewing.

Functions of these components used as work aids:

To help the operators to work easily;

To improve the quality and productivity;

To improve the production.

Guide, compensating foot, specialized pressure foot, stitching jig, rack guide, light, folder,etc.

SEAM

In sewing, a seam is the line where two or more layers of fabric are held together by stitching.In other words, the line of joining of fabrics is called seam. The arrangement of fabric ends atthe seam line called seam type.

PROPERTIES OF SEAM

Properties of seam are assessed on the following two aspects:

Appearance

After sewing, the sewn area is observed for any defects, if present which affects outlook.Normally it is expected that there will be no defective view of stitches, seam pucker, orunsightly view.

Performance

Performance of a seam is assessed according to following criteria:

Seam Strength: Strength of a seam should be equal to or slightly less than the fabricstrength.

Seam elasticity: Elasticity property of a seam should be equal to or greater than thefabric elasticity.

Durability: Durability of a seam equal to or greater than the durability of the fabric.Especially during wear and washing, the seam should not fail or damage due tofrictional forces and tension.

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Security: During normal use of apparels, the seam should not fail due to simplereason. Confidence of normal stability of seam is the security of the seam. If the seamfails due to normal reason the situation might be unexpected.

Comfort ability: Apparels, during normal use should not create any irritation orproblem to body and health as well.

Special property: If clothing has any special property like water proof, fire proof,chemical resistant, etc then in manufacturing this apparel the seam should beproduced in such away that the seams have also such special property.

TYPES OF SEAM

Seam types in the apparel industry are used to categorize seams according to their structure.Each is classified by the abbreviated seam type (example: Superimposed Seam = SS). Thereare more than 100 types of seams and all those seams are grouped under 8 (eight) classes,called seam classes. Each seam class is useful for different construction methods. The seamclasses are discussed below:

Seam class- 1 (Super imposed seam)

Seams under this class have a general characteristic and all the fabric ends are lying in oneside of the seam. This type of seam is used for general sewing, trouser side seam etc.purposes.

Seam class- 2 (Lapped seam)

This class of seaming has the largest number of variations. A lapped seam is achieved withtwo or more pieces of fabric overlapping each other. LS commonly, but not always, have oneply of fabric fold under itself for a finished edge. Lapped seams are common when workingwith leather and sewing side seams on jeans and dress shirts. Fabric ends lie at both sides ofthe seam line. Seams under this class are very strong.

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Seam class- 3 (Bound seam)

The purpose of a bound seam is to finish an edge of a garment. A common example of thiswould be a neckline of a t-shirt. A bound seam is one piece of fabric encompassing the rawedge of another piece of fabric. There are 18 variations of a bound seam. Seams under thisclass are produced with at least two pieces of fabric. One piece of fabric bounds the open endof other piece of fabric.

A B

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Seam class- 4 (Flat seam)

Flat seams are constructed by having two pieces of fabric meet precisely at their edges. Acover stitch is used to sew the two pieces of fabric together. This stitch has multiple needlesand creates a stitch perpendicular to the seam line. This creates a flat seam which iscommonly used on garments that fit closely to the body such as underwear. The purpose is tocreate a seam that will be flat throughout the duration of the garment life. Seams under thisclass are produced by keeping the fabric plies side by side i.e. without overlapping of plies offabrics. Hence seams can be produced without increasing the thickness of the seam.

Seam class- 5 (Decorative seam)

Seams under this class are produced only for decoration purpose with single piece ormulti-pieces of fabrics.

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Seam class- 6 (Edge neatening)

Seams under this class are produced in such a way so that the fabric ends from cutarea can not come out during use. Over lock sewing is frequently used for this purpose.

Seam Class- 7

These are sometimes called applied seams because they are mainly used to apply a decorativematerial to an edge of seam, such as the lace ending on a nightdress sleeve.

Seam class- 8

Constructed from one ply of fabric only, this class is commonly used for belt loops and waistbelt.

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STITCH

Stitch may refer to: A method of securing thread into textiles in embroidery and sewing orcreating fabrics in knitting. It may also be a method of medical care to close wounds knownas sutures or stitches. In garments technology, loop or loops of one or more threads whenbind with each other either by interlacing or inter-looping or by combination of these two andperform sewing, then each unit of such configuration is called stitch.

Interlacing: When one thread passes over another thread to perform sewing, then suchbinding is called interlacing.

Interloping: When a loop of one thread passes through a loop of another thread to performsewing, then such binding is called inter-looping.

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Intra-loping: When a loop of a thread passes through another loop of the same thread toperform sewing, then the binding is called intra-looping.

STITCH TYPE

Seam and stitch are inter-related because without seam, stitch can not be produced and seamcan not be produced without stitch. There are about seventy (70) types of stitch can be seenbut among them 18 to 20 types of stitch are used in garments manufacturing industries. Intailoring purposes there are only two to three types of stitch are used. All stitches are classedin six (6) groups:

Stitch class – 100 (Single thread chain stitch)

Stitches under this class are produced with single thread by intra-looping technique. All thestitches under this class are unsecured and used for temporary purposes. Starting andfinishing end of the stitch under this class needs bar taking or back stitching to secure thestitches. Most common uses in blind stitching, hemming, button attaching, button holing,gathering, temporary positioning of garment components, etc. purposes.

Stitch class – 200 (Hand stitch)

Stitches under this class are also produced with single thread but by the use of special type ofsewing machine. Stitch class – 200 can not be produced for longer length sewing. This class

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of stitches is used very rarely in the Ready Made Garments (RMG) sector as because they arevery expensive to produce. They are used mainly for coat manufacturing. Stitch type – 209 isshown in diagram which is used in the lapel area.

Stitch class – 300 (Lock stitch)

Stitches under this class are produced by interlacing technique with two threads. The upperthread is called needle thread and the lower one is called bobbin thread. Stitch type – 301 isshown in diagram which is extensively used in domestic sewing machine, tailoring sewingmachine, RMG sector sewing machine, for general sewing for attaching pocket, collar, cuff,etc components. Stitches under this class are naturally secured and shows good frictionalresistance property. Its extensibility is about 30%, hence used extensively in Ready MadeWoven Garments products.

Stitch class – 400 (Multi thread chain stitch)

Stitch class – 400 is produced by interlacing and interloping technique. The upper thread iscalled the needle thread and the lower one is called looper thread. Stitch class – 400 isstronger than stitch class – 300, hence used for joining heavy fabrics, side seam of trouser, etcpurposes.

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Stitch class – 500 (Over edge stitch)

Stitches under this class are produced with one or a group of more threads (one needle threadand two or more looper thread) and at least threads of one group round the edge of the fabricstop fraying i.e. threads from the edge of the fabric can not come out. The knife of themachine cuts the edge first producing a clear edge for seaming. Stitch under this class issometimes called over locking, but actually it is over edge stitch

Stitch class – 600 (Covering chain stitch)

Stitches under this class are formed with at least three groups of threads and threads of twogroups are seen in both side of the fabric. Threads of first group are called needle thread andthreads of second group are called top cover threads and threads of third group are calledbottom cover thread. This type of stitch is so complex and sometimes usage of 9 threads canbe seen. This type of stitch is used for sewing underwear, for attaching lace, braid, elastic,etc.

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Machine Identification

Types Of Machine Brand

Plain Machine Juki, BrotherFlat Lock PegasusPlain Machine BrotherAutomatic Plain Machine Brother

Automatically Done- Thread Cut

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Back Stitch Needle Movement(up-down) Top stitch

Over lock PegasusCylinder Bed PegasusFlat lock Pegasus

Plain Machine Juki

Types of Sewing Machine:

1.Plain Machine (S/N)2.Double Needle Machine (D/N)3.Over lock Machine (O/L)4.Flat lock Machine (F/L)5.Kanshai Machine6.Button Hole Machine7.Button join Machine8.Bar-tack Machine (B/T), etc.9.Cylinder bed m/c10. Flat bed m/c.

Thread Use in Different Machine:

Machine Type Thread Type

Plain/Auto Plain M/C 1 needle Thread1 Bobbin Thread

Double Needle M/c Two NeedleTwo bobbins

Over Lock 2 Needle Thread2 Looper Thread

Cylinder Bed 3 Needle Thread1 Spreader Thread1 looper Thread

Flat bed 3 Needle Thread1 Spreader Thread

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1 looper Thread

Different Between Cylinder Bed & Flat Bed:

Cylinder Bed Flat Bed

1. Hem can make Hem can not make2. Piping mechanism is not available Piping mechanism is available3. Top stitch can done Top stitch can not done.

Different Sewing Machine Parts:

Single Needle Sewing Machine: Plain Machine

Fig: Plain machineMachine Parts:

Thread Stand Thread Clamp Thread Retainer Thread up lever guide Thread guide Tension disk Pressure screw Pressure bar Pressure feet Hand lifter Needle clamp Needle

Needle plate Feed dog SPI adjustor Reverse lever Bobbin winder Pulley Oil sight window Pulley belt cover Leg lifter Foot Safety guide Motor

Over Lock Sewing Machine:

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Fig: Over Lock Machine

Machine Parts:

Thread Stand Thread Clamp Thread Retainer Thread guide Tension disk Pressure screw Pressure bar Pressure feet Pressure Spring Eye protection glass Upper & Lower looper

Needle clamp Needle Needle plate Feed dog SPI adjustor Pulley Oil sight window Pulley belt cover Leg lifter Safety guide Motor

Cylinder Bed Machine:

Fig: Cylinder Bed Machine

Machine Parts:

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Thread Stand Thread Clamp Thread Retainer Thread guide Tension disk Pressure screw Pressure bar Pressure feet Eye protection glass Looper

Needle clamp Needle Needle plate Feed dog SPI adjustor Spreader Mechanism Oil sight window Pulley belt cover Safety guide Motor

Flat Bed Machine:

Fig: Flat Bed Machine

Machine Parts:

Thread Stand Thread Clamp Thread Retainer Thread guide Tension disk Pressure screw Pressure bar

Needle clamp Needle Needle plate Feed dog SPI adjustor Spreader Mechanism Oil sight window Pulley belt cover

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Pressure feet Eye protection glass Looper

Piping Mechanism(Folder) Motor

SEWING NEEDLE

A sewing needle is a long slender tool with a pointed tip. The first needles were madeof bone or wood; modern ones are manufactured from high carbon steel wire, nickel- or goldplated for corrosion resistance. The highest quality embroidery needles are made of platinum.Needle size is denoted by a number on the packet. The convention for sizing is that the lengthand thickness of a needle increases as the size number decreases. For example, a size 1 needlewill be thicker and longer, while a size 10 will be shorter and finer. The action of needle has adirect effect on seam strength and garments performances.

Functions of a needle

The functions of a sewing needle are:

To produce a hole in the material for the thread to pass through withoutcausing any damage to material.

To form a loop that will be picked up by the hook of bobbin case.

To pass the needle thread through the loop formed by the looper mechanismon machines other than lock stitch.

PARTS OF A SEWING NEEDLE

The different parts of a needle and their functions are mentioned below:

Butt: It is the truncated conical shape at the top end of the needle which isneeded to attach the needle with needle bar or clamp.

Shank: Shank is the upper part of the needle which locates within the needlebar. It may be cylindrical or flat at one side.

Shoulder: Shoulder is the section intermediate between the shank and theblade.

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Blade: It is the longest portion of the needle from the shoulder to eye. Thispart is responsible for the most amount of friction between needle and fabric.

Long groove: There is a fine slot in the needle from its shoulder to eye. The needlethread remains at this slot when the needle penetrates the fabric and goes up anddown.

Short groove: Short groove is the slot on the side of the needle towards the hook orlooper. It assists in forming the loop of needle thread.

Eye: Needle eye is a hole at the tip of the needle through which the sewing threadpasses. It prevents the sewing thread form damage during sewing.

Scarf: Scarf or clearance cut is the portion across the whole faces of the needle justabove the eye. Its purpose is to enable a closer setting of the hook or looper to theneedle.

Point: It provides the best penetration of material according to its nature and theappearance that has to be produced.

Tip: Tip is the keen extreme end of the point.

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Size of the needle:

1. DB * 1 -7, 8, 9, 10, 11 for Plain M/C

2. DC * 1 -7, 8, 9, 10, 11 for over lock M/C

3. UY * 128 -8, 9, 10, 11 for Flat lock M/C

4. UO * 113 -9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 for Kansai M/C

5. DP * 17 -11 for button stitch M/C

6. DP * 5 -11 for button hole M/C

7. DP * 5 -9, 10, 11 for Two needle lock stitch

Requirement of fabric assembling or sewing:-

1.Cutting fabric components: - All components of a particular garment should at first be

available before sewing. Ex: For manufacturing a basic full sleeve polo shirt 10 cut

components are needed.

2.Need same number cut pieces: - At first all components or patterns of a particular lay of

fabric should be given same number. Ex: all the patterns of 3rd lay are given number -

3. Then the same numbered patterns are used for making a garment.

3.Dye to match sewing thread: - Dye to match sewing thread is essential for sewing.

Because the color of fabric and thread should be identical. Again the fastness of dye

of both fabric and thread should be same.

4.All accessories must be available: - For making garments, several accessories are

required. Ex: zipper, button, threads etc are required. They should be available.

5.Proper needle selection: - For sewing particular garments proper needle should be

selected. That is to say, needle should be proper size and point. For sewing knitted

fabric the needle should be of ball pointed and for woven fabric the needle should be

of set pointed.

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SEWING THREAD

Almost all garments produced have one component in common; the sewing thread. Whilstsewing thread is usually a relatively a small percentage of the cost of garments, it has anextremely significant influence on the appearance and durability of the finished product. Theproduction of sewing thread is an extensive and complex subject.

Sew ability

It describes the basic properties of sewing threads which ensures the uniformity of stitchformation. Sew ability includes:

Not breaking when used for high speed sewing.

Facilitating the consistent formation of stitches.

The minimum occurrence of skipped stitches.

In order to prevent tension during sewing, the threads must have uniformdiameter.

A high level of resistance to abrasion is essential due to the friction of thethread in the needle eye and with other mechanisms.

The thread has to have sufficient surface smoothness to pass easily throughthe guides of the machine.

Durability

The main thread related factors under this heading are:

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The thread has to have sufficient elasticity to withstand the normal pressureimposed on seams during wear. This is particularly important for knittedfabrics because of their inherent extensibility.

Thread shrinkage should be minimal after the garment has been washed ordry-cleaned.

The thread should maintain its original color after being subjected to cleaningprocess. In particular, this is applicable to the threads used for top stitchingand other decorative purposes such as embroidery.

TYPES OF SEWING THREAD

For practical purposes, sewing threads for clothing industry can be divided into three broadgroups; Cotton, Synthetics and Core spun.

Cotton

Threads made from cotton fibres have excellent sew ability because the fibres are very supple(flexible) and are not seriously affected by needles during sewing. On the other hand, Cottonthreads are not highly durable and some of the softer types have a tendency to shrink whenthe garment is washed. Glace and mercerized cotton threads sew well and have a lustrousappearance but they both shrink slightly when wetted.

Synthetics

This is large group of threads made mainly from nylon, polyester, rayon and polyamidefilaments or fibres. The threads are very durable and are not affected by moisture orchemicals used in washing powder or dry cleaning solvents. In addition, they have excellentdimensional stability and a high resistance to abrasion. Synthetic threads are available in anumber of different constructions and finishes, which enhances the performance for specialsewing application.

Core spun

This thread has continuous filament polyester wrapped in cotton fibres, which produces astrong thread with excellent sew ability. Core spun threads have good elasticity and a highresistance to heat a shrinkage but cost more than regular threads because they have to be dyedtwice, first for the polyester core then for the cotton wrap. The advantage of core spun threadis that finer thread can be used due to the superior strength of polyester core.

Other fibres

Two other natural fibre threads, which have limited application, are silk and linen.

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Silk: These threads are strong with good elongation and a highly lustrousappearance. Silk threads have good sew ability but the high cost restricts theiruse for mass production sewing.

Linen: Once linen was used for sewing tents, shoes, leather, etc. Linenthreads spun from flax have been replaced mostly by synthetics.

Features of Some Garments:

# T-Shirt:

Casual tops

Narrow neck line

Short sleeve / long sleeve.

No collar

Usually made of knit fabric.

# POLO shirt:

Tops

Shirt / long

Collar

Shirt button placket

Made of knit fabric.

# Tank TOP

Sleeve less pull over.

fused over a shirt.

Warm shirt

Waist band

Put on over head

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# Pull over – Sweater.

Warm shirt

Long sleeve

Waist band

Put on/ over head.

SMV ( Standard Minutes value):

utesprocesseachfinishtorequiredTimeSMV

min60

Time req. to finish each process = 41.5 sec.

SMV without Allowance = 691.060

5.41

Here,

Manual and machine operation time are considered.

Normally,SMV=observation time*operator rating

In Micro fibre ltd, operator rating is 70%

SEWING DEFECTS OR PROBLEMS

Feed system, needle and thread together determine the seam appearance and performance.The problems which arise when materials are sewn in their seriousness. Some are majorproblems which can not be overlooked and for these problems garments will be rejected bythe inspector, whereas some are minor problems which are negligible in low qualitygarments. The sewing defects are:

Seam pucker

Broken or open stitch

Staggered (spread out) stitch

Slipped or skipped stitch

Variable stitch density

The first two of them are major problems and the rest are less serious problems.

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Fig: Seam pucker

Seam pucker

Seam pucker is a major problem. Pucker is a wrinkled appearance along a seam whencompared to a smooth fabric. The main causes of seam pucker are mentioned below:

Mainly seam pucker occurs due to unequal tension feed-dog and pressurefoot on two plies of fabric.

It also occurs due to unequal thread tension and unsuitable thread.

It may occur due to feeding problem and needle size.

It also occurs due to shrinkage of either fabric or sewing thread.

It may occur due to instability of fabric dimensions or fabric construction.

Fig: Broken or Open stitch

Broken or Open stitch

It is also a major problem of sewing. The reasons of occurring broken or open stitchare mentioned below:

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Mainly due to tension variation between needle and bobbin thread in highspeed sewing machine, breakage of threads occurs. This is responsible forbroken stitch.

Needle thread breakage occurs due to following reasons:

If tension on needle thread is more;

If snarling of yarn occurs in tension disc.

If fraying of needle thread occurs.

Excess needle heating or hook heating.

Low quality sewing thread.

Sharp edge of throat plate, hook plate, bobbin cage, needle groove,etc.

The causes of bobbin thread breakage are mentioned below:

Faulty winding of thread on bobbin.

Excessive tension on bobbin thread.

Sharp edge of bobbin cage, looper eye and spring.

Faulty fitting of bobbin cage.

Staggered stitch

If the stitches produced by needle are not parallel with the seam line individually then theyare called staggered stitches.

The causes of staggered stitches are as follows:

Due to needle deflection and vibration.

Due to loose fitting of needle butt inside the needle bar.

Due to wrong selection of needle point.

Due to combination problem of needle and thread size.

Due to faulty speed and motion of feed-dog.

Due to improper controlling of fabric by the feed mechanism.

Slipped or Skipped stitch

If the continuation of stitches in a seam line hampers by slipping some stitches, then suchstitch is called slipped or skipped stitch. If the looper in the machine can not pick the loop ofneedle thread from the underside, slipped stitch arises. The causes of slipped stitch are:

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If the timing between needle and looper or bobbin is not proper, needlethread loop is not picked up by bobbin thread loop when required. This willcause slipped stitch.

If the loop of needle becomes smaller in size, slipped stitch occurs.

Unequal tension between the two sets of thread.

Deflection or vibration of needle.

Due to flagging during sewing.

Variable stitch density

It is the variation of number of stitches per unit length of seam. The causes of variable stitchdensity are mentioned below:

If fabric can not move forward properly due to lack of pressure of pressurefoot.

Due to faulty feed mechanism.

The remedies of this problem are as follows:

Adjustment of pressure foot pressure.

Sewing Quality Checking Points-

Skip/Drop/Broken Stitch Raw Edge Size Mistake Uneven Hem Uneven Cuff Uneven Neck Uneven Shoulder Uneven Placket Uneven Pocket Twisting Without Care Label Open Tack Sleeve Up-Down Stripe Up-Down Open Seam Four Point Up-Down Spot Shading, Etc

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Finishing SectionIntroduction:

From the sewing section all garments are sending to the finishing section to check thembefore packing. It is known to all that if the finishing part is done very carefully then the littlefault may be unseen at a glance. Shipment may not be cancelled if packing is done correctly.It is ensured that all the accessories are attached with garment according to the buyerrequirement which are already approved. Iron is done carefully and gives attention the foldmark where it is exactly placed. Here steam iron may be the proper solution and in MicroFibre Limited steam iron is used in every section where it is necessary.

If there find out any fault within the garment then it is identify weather it is major orminor. Attached the arrow sticker to help the problem find out. If major problem is seen thenit is again send to the sewing section to recover that problem.

In the time of attaching the accessories it is very carefully done to attach them inexact position and direction. Otherwise that will be considered as a fault.

When poly packing is done then it is very carefully handled that there is identify theassortment requirement. The carton size and the format also the vital fact in the finishingsection.

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Care Instruction Format from Internet:

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GARMENTS MERCHANDISING

Merchandising:

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Definition:1. Garments merchandising is the combination of some works like buyerdevelopment, work order collection,prizing,sample development approval ofsample, fabrics and accessories collection follow up,documentation,delivery intime etc.2. To know about garments for selling is called garments merchandising.

Flow chart of merchandising:

Talk to buyer(Buyer developing)↓

Receive order requiest↓

Development sample↓

Consumption of material↓

Costing of material including CM↓

Negotiate with buyer↓

Order receive (L/C)↓

Back to back L/C opening for purchasing fabric and accessories↓

Sample approving↓

Approval for mass bulk production↓

Related work to production planning↓

Start bulk production↓

Line inspercion↓

Final inspection by buyer or buyer representative↓

Shipment to buyer↓

Send document to buyer for payment↓

Payment receive from bank.

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Responsibilities of Merchandiser: To negotiate the price for the seller, if price is high, then it is less chance

to get the order. On the other hand if prize is low, then there is a chanceto incur loss for the factory, so it is very risky job for a merchandiser andhave to remember it.

Have to give more competitive price without compromising the quality. They have to maintain good relation with the buyer for getting more

business in the future. Have to purchase all mtl (fabrics & accessories) within competitive prize

for making the garments as per buyer instruction regarding quality. To execute the order within limited time that is timely delivery shipment

is must, otherwise if goods are not shift in time, then buyer will notaccept the goods, in that case it will be loss for a factory.

Work done by Merchandiser: Sourcing Pricing(CM,C&F.CIF,FOB) Order follow up and inspection Ensuring on time shipment.

Activities of Merchandiser Department are as follows:

Communication with Buyers Procure order & order confirmation Costing Consumption Price Quoting Sample Control & Approval Potential Sourcing of material & approval fabric,trim& accessories Lab dipping & Approval Purchasing of Materials Testing Factory scheduling/planning Order follow up:all steps of production & Quality Ensure on time delivery Liaison with the customer during design,sourcing,production& shipping Conduct coordination Meeting with other departments/pre-production meeting Attend buyers meeting Ensure Customer Satisfaction Product Development etc.

GARMENTS ACCESSORIES

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Garments accessories means all items used in the garments except the basic iscalled garments trims.There are hundreds of items used to manufacture thegarments which are used as trims.

ACCESSORIES:1) Sewing thread and sew able items

a) Threadb) Buttonc) Main labeld) Care labele) Size labelf) Velcro(Hook and loop fastener)g) Laceh) Elastici) Zipperj) Twill tap

2) Finishing item:a) Price ticketb) Hang tagc) Poly bagd) Back boarde) Collar insidef) Butter flyg) Tag pinh) Tissue paperi) Draw string and stopperj) Scotch tapek) Tissue paperl) Plastic clipm) Collar bonen) Elastico) Gum tapep) Carton

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CHAPTER-7

Quality Assurance System

Micro Fibre Ltd. is more concern about quality. In this factory qualityassurance is more preferred than quality control, but both are in advancement. The QualityAssurance Department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the material inprocess and various stages of its manufacturing.

Quality assurance:Quality assurance is defined as all those possible planned and systematic actions necessary toprovide adequate confidence than a product or service will satisfy given requirements forquality. The Quality Assurance Department is assigned to maintain consistently uniformquality of the material in process and various stages of manufacturing.

Marketinvestigationrescarch /Analysi

s

Define&

Designthe

demanded

quality

QC

Production (O& M)

Demanded quality,

just intime and

atreasonabl

e

Ensuresupplyin the

market

I amhappy to

havewhat I

wanted!

Whatdoes the

userwant?

Production Plan

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Quality assurance is, therefore, a systematic activity conducted by a manufacturer thatassures satisfactory fulfilment of the quality demanded by the customers.

Object of quality control:-Research-Selection of raw materials-Process control-Process development-Product testing-Specification test

Scope of quality control:-Testing lab-Machine auditing system-A good training system-Excellent analytical backup-Technical expertise

Quality Control Flow Chart:

Yarn receiving

Sample Knitting

Batching

Dyeing (Check shade & Faults of dyeing)

Dewatering & Untwisting

Drying (Check diameter, Pretreatment, Shrinkage Spirality and GSM)

Compacting

Final inspection

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If sample OK go for bulk production

Quality Management system:Quality assurance procedure may be divided into two major parts:

1. Online quality control2. Offline quality control

Quality Assurance

On Line Off Line

Online QCThis involves analysis of quality of inputs and outputs and undertaking control

measures while production process goes on, and this is done centrally. For example, in MicroFibre Ltd. inspection/checking/testing and corrective measures against defect formation areundertaken instantly starting from cutting to sewing, assembling, ironing and packing. Online QC is not involved. With quality control at procurement, storage and delivery stages.There is another way of understanding of Online QC where data of inspection andchecking/testing are sent online to central office of decision, and from where after analysisthe corrective measures are also sent online to the place of production for taking necessaryaction for the interest of quality.

On Line Test:- GSM of the Fabric;- Exact Diameter and Width;- Grey Fabric Inspection (4 point);- Shade Check;- Bias and Bowing;- Visual appearance (Enzyme performance);- Stripe.

Offline QC:

Off'-line QC generally checks and analyses causes of quality deviation with the informationtaken from a past cycle of a process and recommend the corrective measures to undertake innext cycle of the process. Proper and effective QC should include both online and off-lineapproaches. The following tests are generally done-

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Off Line Test:

All the Off Line tests for finished fabrics can be grouped as follows-1. Physical Tests, and2. Chemical Tests

Physical Tests: GSM of Fabric; Rubbing Fastness or Crocking; Pilling test; Diameter and Width; Tensile strength; Tearing test; Bursting test; Light Fastness test; Drape, Stiffness, and Handle; Course per inch; Wales per inch; Picks per inch; Ends per inch.

Chemical Tests: Shrinkage and Spirality or Twisting; Fastness to Washing; Fastness to Perspiration; Fastness to Chlorine; PH test.

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WORKING PROCEDURE FOR LABSAMPLE IN (FABRICS)

Physical Test Wet Lab.

Color fastness to light Bursting strength Color Fastness To Washing Dimensional Stability Pilling Crocking Prepare the sample

Pre-Production Sample Final SampleEvaluate the Sample Wash the sample according to buyer measure

Test TeststReport Making Tumble dry

Prepared the ReportKeep the sample Flat in conditioned temp

Pass Fail at least two hours before measurePass Fail

Delivery Refinish Measure the sampleGo for the final Refinish

Need to test again Prepared the ReportNeed to test again

Pass Fail

Ready to deliver Refinish

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List Of Dyeing And QC Laboratory MachineriesSl.No. LABORATORY MACHINERIES QUANTITY

01 Computer Color Matching System ( Data Colour USA) SF-600X 01

02 Computer Color Matching System (Minolta, Japan) 01

03 Crock meter (Rubbing, Fastness Tester) Jems H Hell UK 01

04Sample Dyeing Machine (High Temp. & Atmospheric) AHIBANUANCE USA

03

05 Washing Fastness / Shrinkage Tester electrolux Switzerland, 01

06 Perspiration Tester UK ROACHES 01

07 Tumble Dryer UK 01

08 Light Box Varibide-UK 120/D-65, TL-83,Tl-84 UU 02

09 Yarn Count Tester , Paramount /India 01

10 Water Hardness testing equipment= Hanna,/Hungary 01

11 Pilling tester UK , ICL Pilling Tester ROACHES 01

12 Digital PH Meter : Metler Toledo/switcher land 01

13 OPTI FADE – Light Fastness Tester : ROACHES/UK 01

14 Water Fastness Tester / Perspiration Fastness Tester: ROACHES/UK 01

15 Dimensional Stability Measuring Scale 01

16 View Tex –Process controller for Production 01

17 Digital pipet-Rainin- USA 01

18 Digital pipet-Rainin- USA 01

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Fig: electrolux washing machine Fig: Pilling assessment viwer

Fig: Channel Oven Fig: Yarn Count Tester

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Fig: Crock meter Fig: ECO data color

Fig: Electrolux drier Fig: Inodex washing machine

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Fig: Labtexh Fig: Labtech

Fig: Enzyme tester Fig: OPTI FADE m//c

Fig: Padding mangle machine Fig: Digital PH Meter

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Fig: Pilling tester Fig: Roach Oven

Fig: Solar Box 1500 Light Fastness Tester Fig: Tumble Drye

Quality Standard:Micro Fibre Ltd. follows the quality standard: ISO-9001:2000

Fabric Inspection:The inspection of fabric is a procedure by which the defects of fabric are identified and

fabric is classified according to degree or intensity of defects. The fabric inspection is done forboth grey and finished fabric.Fabric inspection :

Two ways of grey fabric inspection used to done by-

a) Auto turning fabric inspection m/c.b) Varivide colour assessment cabinet –2

D-65, TL-84, TL-83, Florescent, UV.

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Grey Fabric Inspection:Grey fabric inspection is performed according to 4-point system.

Quality Control Of KnittingMICRO FIBRE GROUP is very conscious about quality, They are following 4 point gradingsystem for fabric inspection, which is an international standard. The 4 point grading system withdefect point against defect size is tabulated below:

THICK THIN DIRT, OIL SPOT, CONTAMINATION:

Up to 3’’ in length: 1 PtUp to 6’’ in length: 2 “Up to 9’’ in length: 3 “Up to 9’’ in length: 4 “

QUALITY Pts / per 100 square meter= (Total point * GSM)/ (Roll weight*10)Quality inspectors seal on the fabric rolls as ‘CHECK-1’, ‘OK’ & ‘REJECT’ as according asquality classification.

Following forrnula is used for calculation of Acceptance Quality Level (AQL):

Following table shows the acceptance calculation followed by the inspection section at MICROFIBRE GROUP:

FOUR POINT GRADING SYSTEMSize of defects Penalty3 inches or less 1 point

Over three inch but not 6 inch 2 pointOver 6 inch but not 9 inch 3 point

Over 9 inch 4 point

ACCEPTANCE CALCULATIONUp To 20 Points A Grade

21-30 Points B Grade

31-40Points C Grade

Above 40 Points Rejected

AQL

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Finished Fabric Inspection:4 point numbering system is followed for finished fabric inspection.

Checking for final inspection:1. Uneven shade2. Oil spot3. Neps4. Crease mark5. Machine Stoppage mark6. Listing7. Line mark8. Pick missing9. Double yarn10. Dead cotton11. Bowing or skew12. Fly yarn contamination

Find out the mean, standard deviation, coefficient of variance and standard error ofinspection result of finished fabric:

SHIFT ID samples (N) Number ofdefect

Defect persample Xi Xi-X (Xi-X)2

Saturday-1 110 880 8 1.53 2.34Saturday-2 108 756 7 0.53 0.28Sunday-1 90 810 9 2.53 6.40Sunday-2 102 636 6.23 -0.24 0.06Monday-1 89 623 7 0.53 0.28Monday-2 106 600 5.66 -0.81 0.66Tuesday-1 98 578 5.90 -0.57 0.32Tuesday -2 95 500 5.26 -1.21 1.46

Wednesday-1

100 760 7.6 1.13 1.28

Wednesday-2

103 400 3.88 -2.59 6.71

Thursday -1 98 515 5.25 -1.22 1.49Thursday -2 89 629 7.07 0.60 0.36

N=1188 ∑Xi=7687 ∑(Xi-X)2 =21.64

Mean, X = 6.47

1Variance = ∑(Xi-X)2

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(N-1)

1= x 21.64 = 0.0182

1188

Standard deviation, σ = √variance =√0.0182= 0.135Standard deviation

Coefficient of variation CV% = X 100Mean0.135

= X 1006.47

=2.09%

Higher the CV value more irregular is the pattern of the indicator. The lower of the CV value,better the quality of sample by structure and behaviors for the subsequent processes.

Procedure of the Different Laboratory Tests:

Different types of fastness tests of the dyed fabric are done in quality control departmentof the Micro Fibre Group. Different types of method (Standard or buyer’s recommended) arefollowed for different types of tests. The process of the different tests of fabrics are described inthe following section:

i. Color fastness to washing –ISO105CO3, ISO105CO6C2S , ISO105CO6A2Sii. Color fastness to rubbing/crocking –ISO105X12

iii. Color fastness to cold water –ISO105EO1iv. Color fastness to hot water –ISO105EO8v. Color fastness to perspiration–ISO105EO4

vi. Color fastness to light –ISO105B02vii. Dimensional stability ISO5077

viii. Appearance after washix. Pilling test ISO12941

Color Fastness to Wash Test:

Required materials:1. Sample size 40 100 mm2. Multifiber at 40 100 mm3. ECE detergent – 4g/L4. Sodium Perborate (Na2BO3) - 1g/L5. Distilled water

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6. Normal cold water7. Steel balls

Required instrument:1. Washing machine2. Scissor3. Stitch machine

Procedure :1. Cut sample & multifibre at 100 400 mm and then stitch.2. ECE detergent & Sodium per borate is taken with the sample.

the solution is taken by the following formula:(Sample fabric + Multifibre weight) 50 ml (1:50 liquor ratio)

3. The sample is kept in 600C for 30 minutes in Wash Machine4. Rinse the sample twice with cold water.5. Dry at 60°C by hanging or by Flat iron pressing but temperature should not be

more than 150°C.Evaluation:

Dry the specimen and the change of shade & degree of staining is measured by GreyScale & Staining Scale.

Washing fastness for solid dyeing is checked normally 3 times e.g.

- During sample production- After compacting /calendaring- After printing- After garments produced

Color the Fastness to Rubbing (Dry & Wet) Test:Sample:

- Dyed fabric – 15 cm 5 cm- White Test Cloth - 5 cm 5 cm

Procedure:- White test cloth is put on to the grating and stag by steel wire.- The sample is run twenty times manually for ten seconds. and the rubbing fastness of

the sample cloth and degree of staining is accessed.- For rubbing fastness (Wet), the rubbing cloth is placed in the water and socked and

squeeze. The wet rubbing cloth is placed on to the grating and stag with stainless steelwire and run ten times manually then assess the staining on to the rubbing cloth andthe rubbing fastness of the sample cloth is accessed.

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Evaluation:- Change of shade of the sample is measured with grey scale and degree of staining of

the white test cloth is measured by Staining Scale.

Color Fastness to cool Water:Test specimen:

Sample fabric – 100 mm 40 mmMultifibre fabric – 100 mm 40 mm Cut the multifibre into two piece Sandwich the test specimen between two piece of multifibre

Testing Solution:Water is taken as required

Method:- The composite specimen is put in a peri dish (2 specimen of a sample).- Water is taken in the peri dish as required.- Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping.- The specimen is put for 30 minutes.- A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room

temperature.- Excess solution is poured off.- Peri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the incubator at (372)

0C for 4 hours.- The specimen is dried (Temp 600C)

Evaluation:- Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale & Staining

Color Fastness to hot Water:Test specimen:


Testing Solution:Water is taken as required

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Method: Roll the composite specimen compactly around the glass rod to form a cylinder 4 cm

long, and tie uniformly, but not tightly, with thread Leave the specimen on the rod for 30 min in slightly acidified distilled water under

reflux at a temperature of 60 ± 2oC and at a liquor ratio of 30: 1. During the test ensurethat the composite specimen is always submerged in the water.

Remove the specimen from the rod and squeeze the specimen. Open out the compositespecimen by breaking the stitching on all sides except one of the shorter sides.7.4 Lay outthe composite specimen smooth between the two glass or acrylic-resin plates under apressure of 12.5 kPa.

Place the test device containing the composite specimen in the over for 4 h at 37 oC ± 2oC .

After that dry it by hanging it in air at a temperature not exceeding 60oC with the threeparts in contact only at the remaining line of stitching.

Assess the change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabrics withthe grey


Color Fastness to Perspiration Test:Test specimen:


Testing Solution:

1. Alkaline Solution:l-histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate (C6H4O2N3 HCI.H2O)– 5.00 g/LNaCl – 5.00 g/Lsodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate (NaH2PO4.2H20)– 2.5 g/LSodium chloride (NaCl)-5g/lPH – 8 (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH)

2. Acidic Solution:l-histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate (C6H4O2N3 HCI.H2O)– 5.00 g/LNaCl – 5.00 g/LSodium di-hydrogen orthophosphate (NaH2PO4.2H2O) – 2.2 g/LSodium chloride (NaCl)-5g/lPH – 5.5 (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH)

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Method:- The composite specimen is put in a peri dish (2 specimen of a sample).- Solution (Alkaline & Acidic) is taken in the two peri dish. Here, M:L is taken 1:50.- Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping.- The specimen is put for 30 minutes.- A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room

temperature.- Excess solution is poured off.- Peri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the incubator at (372)

0C for 4 hours.- The specimen is dried (Temp 600C)


Scale.

Color fastness to light:Method used: ISO 105 BO2Light used: Xenon arc lampPower of light: 1500 wattProcess time: 20-80 hrs (according to buyer requirement)

Process:

1) Put the sample in the clamp and then put it in the machine. Startrunning the machine and keep it running for recommended hours ofbuyer.

2) Then take it out and compare with the grey scale of color staining forrating.

Evaluation:Evaluation was made numerically by European or American blue scale (1-8).Accepted Quality standard:

1. Color fastness to light Above 42. Color fastness to wash 4-53. Color fastness to water 4-54. Color fastness to rubbing Wet 4, Dry 4-55. Color fastness to perspiration 4-5

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Measuring the Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage & Spirality):

Measuring the dimensional stability:Sample:

Two piece of 50 cm 50 cm fabric is taken for test.Procedure:

a. Conditioning: Put the sample in table for 4 hrs for conditioningbefore starting test.

b. Cut the sample 50x50 cm & benchmark should be 35x35 cm. Stitchthe sample (3 sides) by over lock sewing machine.

c. Put sample in washing machine and run according to buyer’s choice.d. Drying: All Buyers’ requirement is tumble Dry except ECHO

SCOURING is flat dry. {Three types of drying can be used here fordrying the fabric- Tumble drying, Screen/ Flat drying and E 3 (Hanging) drying }

50 x 50 cm

Fig: Template

Shrinkage test calculation:

Before wash – After washShrinkage % = X 100

Before washBy this test spirality can also be measured by the following formula –Spirality% = A/B×100

2.2= × 100 = 6.12%

35.5Here A= Length measurement before washB=Spiraled length.

╬ ° ╬

° 35 x 35 cm °

╬ ° ╬

B

A

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Spirality test calculation:

S = (S1+S2) / 2Spirality = (S+S L)/100

Suppose,S1 = The right side distance of the specimen from the stitch line afterwash.S2 = The left side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash.L = Length before wash

Mean, standard deviation, coefficient of variation of 10 pieces of dyed fabrics were selectedrandomly from QC-LAB to determine the dimentional stability. The test result are given asfollows:

No of test Dimentional stability (shrinkage%)lengthwise Xi Xi-X (Xi-X)2

1 4.12 -0.43 0.18492 4.60 0.05 0.00253 4.40 -0.15 0.02254 4.50 -0.05 0.00255 4.83 0.28 0.07846 5.00 0.45 0.20257 5.10 0.55 0.30258 4.17 -0.38 0.14449 4.51 -0.04 0.0016

10 4.22 -0.33 0.1089N=10 ∑Xi=45.45 ∑(Xi-X)2=1.0507

45.45Mean, X= =4.545=4.55

10

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1Variance = ∑(Xi-X)2

(N-1)

1= x 1.0507 = 0.1167=0.117

9

Standard deviation, σ = √variance =√0.117= 0.342

Standard deviationCoefficient of variation C.V% = X 100

Mean

0.342= X 100

4.55

=7.52%

Higher the CB value more irregular is the pattern of the indicator. The lower of the CV value,better the quality of sample by structure and behaviors for the subsequent processes.

pH of a Dyed Fabric TestTest specimen:

2 gm of dyed fabric is taken. The fabric is cut into pieces of (0.5 cm 0.5 cm)

Procedure:1. The sample is taken into conical flax.2. 100 ml distilled water (slightly warm) is taken into the conical flax.3. The conical flax is put on the Magnetic Stirrer for 30 minutes.

Report:The PH of the conical flax is measured by Digital PH meter.

Quality Standard:

Micro Fibre Group is certified by Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and ISO 9001:2000

SHORTLY DESCRIBED ABOUT OEKO-TEX STD100:

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Oeko-Tex std. 100 certificate is designed by the International Association for Research &Testing considering the consumer safety & environment protection for the purchase of textiles.This certificate ensures “Confidence in Textiles - tested for harmful substances” & show to theconsumer that goods bought by them are free from any hazards to health such as,

o Formaldehyde.o Toxic pesticides.o Penta Chloro Phenol.o Heavy metal traces.o Azo dyes which release carcinogenic amines.o Halogen carriers.o Chlorine bleaching.o PH of the aqueous extract.

Oeko-Tex std. 100 from ecological point on textile substrates (Yarn, Fabric, garments etc.)marked by textile manufacturers. This does not depend solely on the dyestuffs. It also dependson the processing conditions, various chemicals & other auxiliaries used in the manufacture ofsuch a substrate. So, Oeko-Tex std. 100 is not a quality label, it is just only ensures the safety ofthe textile goods and eco-labeled.

Remarks:Micro Fibre Ltd. always aware about the quality of the product. The quality of the

product is always approved by the buyer. They follow the quality standard: ISO -9001:2000.MFG is well equipped for checking the quality of the product. They sent the qualityreport to the buyer time to time/batch to batch. We think as MFG strictly meet up the qualitylevel that’s why they are the only one direct manufacture of Marks & Spencer garments. MicroFibre Group. is well equipped for checking the quality of the product. They sent the qualityreport to the buyer time to time/batch to batch.

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CHAPTER-08MAINTENANCE

Maintenance is the process by which equipment is looked after in such a way thattrouble free. Services and increased machine life can be ensured and specific product qualityrequired by the customer is sustained. Maintenance can increased machine life and ensuredtrouble free service

Maintenance of machinery:

1 Break down Maintenance: Break down maintenance is done instantly when problem arises inmachine. In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it cannot performits normal functions.

RoutineMaintenance

Break DownMaintenance

MechanicalMaintenance

ElectricalMaintenance

MechanicalMaintenance

ElectricalMaintenance

Maintenance

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2. Routine Maintenance: After a particular little the machines are cleaned & reordered, that isroutine or schedule maintenance. PPC does it once in a month. Schedule maintenance varies,time in time & also depends on situation according to types of machines, because maintenance isdirectly related to production.Most of the time, all the screws, nuts, bolts & levers are checked, lubrication is also done.Workers inform about the problem areas of the machines. Depending on their informationmaintenance is done, Maintainers analyses the machine records & takes steps according torequirements.

Manpower Set-Up For Maintenance:

A Shift 8 AM - 8 PM B Shift 8 PM - 8 AM General Shift 9AM - 6 PM

Maintenance Manager

Electrical Mechanical Utility

Engineer-01 Engineer-01 Engineer-02

Fitter & Welder-10 Electrician-81 Operator-17

Operator-03 Armature Winder-09 Helper-12

Helper-05 Helper-09 Labour & Peon- 09

Maintenance procedure:During maintenance procedure following points should be checked.Maintenance: MechanicalMachine: Dyeing Machines

Sl.No. Item need to be checked & Serviced

1 Crease the winch bearing.2 Complete cleaning of machine3 Cleaning of drain valves, replace seals if required4 Check air supply filter, regulators, and auto drain seals

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5 Clean filters element and blow out6 Greasing of Unloading Roller Bearings.7 Checking of oil level and bolts of Unloading Roller Gearbox.8 Checking of unloading roller coupling and packing.9 Checking and cleaning (if required) of Mm Vessel Level Indicator10 Check the oil level of pump bearing and refill if required.11 Check the function of heat and cool modulating valves12 Check all belts and belt tension13 Check all door seals

Maintenance: MechanicalMachine: Lab dyeing m/c.

Maintenance work to the different machines:

Boiler Maintenance Schedule:

Daily: Check gas pressureMaintain log sheetChemical dosing

Weekly: Check all steam lineFire quality of boiler

Monthly: Check all steam lineFire quality of boilerGas consumption reportBurner clean

Quarterly: Burner cleanEconomizer cleanFeed tank cleanChemical tank clean

Sl. No. Item need to be checked & Serviced

1 Check rotating main shaft bearing.

2 Check cooling water inlet and outlet nose and nose clips.3 Check cooling fans4 Check driving bells and pulleys.

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Sight glass clean

Half yearly: Burner cleanFeed tank cleanChemical tank cleanEconomizer cleanReplace gasketReplace valve

Check gas line & filter & pressure

Yearly: Overhauling of boilerChemical cleaning of boilerSafety valve testEconomizer cleanFeed tank clean

Dyeing m/c maintenance Schedule

Daily: Check belt tensionCheck steam or water system & air supplyCheck chemical pumpMachine clean

Weekly: Bearing & belt checkCheck leakage of air, steam &Water lineGreasing bearing point

Monthly: Greasing bearing pointsReplace bearing points (if required)Gasket checkClean steam trapLubricating all chemical pump

Quarterly: Replace beltsRepairing of pulley, shaft & bearing housingClean steam trapReplace seals (if leakage)

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Half yearly: Replace beltsRepairing pulley, shaft & bearing housing Machine body repairing

Yearly: Machjne overhauling

Compacting m/c maintenance:

Daily: Check belt tensionCheck Steam supply & air systemM/c clean

Weekly: Check fabric qualityGreasing bearing points

Monthly: Greasing bearing pointsClean air filter & regulatorClean steam trap

Quarterly: Replace beltsReplace gear oilPainting m/c & pipeline of the total systemReplace seals

Half yearly: Check roller conditionGreasing & lubricating of all pointsCheck bearing condition

Yearly: Machine overhauling

Maintenance tools/equipments & their functions:

Maintenance tools/equipments Functions1. Adjustable wrench Used for setting nut & bolts2. Pipe Spanner For pipe fitting3. Spanner Fixed Spanner for nut & bolts fitting4. Socket Handle system for nut & bolt fitting5. hammer To apply load where required6. Screw driver To release any screw7. Punch Used to fit any worn out shaft8. Lock To open the clip of bearing

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9. Hack saw To cut any metallic thing10. Outside To measure outside dia11. Inside To measure inside dia12. Slide calii To measure very small dia13. Vernier scale To measure very small dia14. Chain ton To lift heavy load15. Welding machine To join metallic16. Grinding machine To make the smooth fabrics17. Tester To test electric circuit18. Pliers To grip anything & cut anything19. Avometer/Voitmeter To measure voltage20. Steel To measure length, width & height21. Chisel To cut any metal22. Gasket cutter For gasket cutting23. File To smooth the rough surface

Remarks:The maintenance department of Micro Fibre Ltd. is well equipped. It has sufficientmaintenance manpower including mechanical and electrical engineers. They do the maintenanceof the rn/cs during the Eid vacation. Otherwise, they do the breakdown maintenance.To increasethe lifetime of the machineries and ensure the proper running of the machinery.

CHAPTER-09UTILITY SERVICE

Available Utility Facilities:

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1. Electricity2. Gas3. Water4. Compressed air5. Boiler etc.

Electricity:

The main utility electricity is supplied by generator & REB power.

Generator: Two types –1.Gas generator2. Diesel generator

1. Gas generator:No. of gas generator: 03Capacity: Generator 1- 920 KW

Generator 2- 900KWGenerator 3- 1100KW

2. Diesel generator:No. of diesel generator: 01Capacity: Generator 1-350KW

REB power:Capacity: 1 MW

Total power is then distributed as per requirements of different section like knitting,Dyeing (yarn/ fabric), Finishing, Maintenance, WTP, ETP etc.

Gas:

Mainly gas is delivered from TITAS. It is mainly used for steam production. Generally 36 m3

gas is required to produce 1 ton of steam.

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Water:

Water is supplied in different sections continuously by using submersible andcentrifugal pumps.

Source of water Under ground water.No. of submercible pump 05

Boiler:

Boiler is mainly used to produce and deliver steam to different section as required. InMicro Fibre Ltd. four boilers are used to produce and deliver steam to different section.

Specification:

Type Fire Tube BoilerBrand Name Cleaver Brooks, USATypeNo. DDH 15.0—10SerialNo. 18709Year of manufacturing 1996Max. Working pressure gauge 10 barMax Temperature 183° CMax heat capacity 3.25 MWWater content up to ‘NW’ 9.62 cubic meterMax steam out put 5.0 tonlhrGas pressure in line 1 barGas pressure (in boiler) 10 barGas consumption 34 cubic meter/daySteam pressure 7.5 barSteam header pressure 120 PSIBlow down line 4 times/daySoft water supply pipe dia 1 inchEstablishment cost: 60 lacks Type

Compressor:

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Compressor is mainly used to deliver compressed air to different section as required.In Micro Fibre Ltd. six compressors are used to produce and deliver compressed air todifferent section.

Specification:

No. of Compressor 06Pressure of compressor 7.5 barCapacity 70 m3/hr

Source of Utility:

Electricity : Generator & REB PowerGas : TITASWater : PumpsCompressed air : compressorSteam : Boiler

Utility cost:

Fig: Boiler (Revotherm) Fig: Steam Delivery Chamber

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01. Gas bill (Titas) : 7-8 lacs / month02. Electricity Bill (REB) :8-9 lacs / month03. Others :5-6 lacs / month

Remark:As Micro Fibre Ltd. is the biggest project,here utility system is vast. There is a skill

manpower group of engineers and other technical staffs to look after these utility services. Theyhave to remain aware of solution on a great sense of responsibility for any type of problem due toutility supply.

Water treatment plant

No. of W.T.P. 04Capacity 300m3/hr

Process Flow chart ( Water softening method- ion exchange process ):

Multigrade filter tank ( Have multigrade sand )

Carbon filter tank

Resin tank

To reserve tank

Function of different tank:

Multigrade filter tank- To filter solid content in water.Carbon filter tank- To remove chlorine from water.Resin tank- To remove hardness by ion-exchange reaction.

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Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP)The effluent generated from different sections of a textile industry must be treated before

they are discharged to the environment. Various chemicals and physical means are introduced forthis purpose.The ETP used in Micro Fibre Ltd. is Bio-Chemical process.

Capacity : 100m3/ hrCost : Tk. 1.175 / Kg

Flow chart for ETP:

Waste water

Mechanical barge crain

Collection tank / equalization tank

Pumping water

Clarifier settles off

Bio-tower tank pH Check

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Pumping

Airation tank

Lamallah (Secondary Clarifier)

Dispose to environment

Effluent analyzing report:

Parameter Avg Quantity in effluent St. value to dischargepH 11 7-8COD 800-1200 Mg/L 29-60Mg/LBOD 800-1200 Mg/L 250-300 Mg/LColor Colored ColorlessPhosphate 8.25 Mg/L 5-15 Mg/LSulphate 1500 Mg/L 1000 Mg/LAmmonia 20-30 Mg/L 4-8 Mg/LChloride 1000-1500 Mg/L 500-600Mg/LTDS 5000 Mg/L 2000 Mg/LTSS 250-300 Mg/L 60-80 Mg/LChlorine 0.25 Mg/L >1 Mg/LSurfactants 30-40 Mg/L 0.5-2 Mg/LSludge(wet) 800 Ml/1/2hr

Ref: USPEA(United States Environment Protection Agency)IWRA(Gnternational Water Resources Association)GOB(Govt. Of Bangladesh)

Product Quality Checked:

o Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD)o Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD)o Total suspended solidso Total dissolved solidso Coloro pH etc

Chemicals Used in ETP:

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o Ferrous-Sulphate-(FeSO4-7H2O)o Hydrochloric-Acid (HCL)o Limeo Polymero Sodium-Hypo-Chloride (NaOCl)o Urea-Fertilizer

CHAPTER-10STORE & INVENTORY CONTROL

Inventory system for raw material:In Micro Fibre Ltd.. there are different inventory systems for different raw materials.

Grey fabrics store:All the grey fabrics are stored in the fabric store, near the batch section. Different types

of fabrics arc listed in the sheet according to the fabric types, quantity & consumer’srequirements. Fabrics GSM, shrinkage, diameter & other properties are also taken intoconsideration. The batches are prepared by taking the required fabrics from the grey store. Atpresent the grey fabrics store of Esquire Knit composite Ltd. containing the following types offabrics-1. Single jersey 2. Fleece 3. 1 x 1 Rib 4. Melange 5. 2 x 2 Rib 6. Pique7. Single Jersey( With lycra attachment) 8. 1 x 1 Rib (with lycra attachment)8.2x iRib

Dyes & chemicals store:There is a different time for dyes & chemicals Various types of dyes & chemicals arc

stored here according to the dyes & chemical company. Different types of dyes & chemicals arelisted in a sheet. In the sheet the stored quantity of dyes & chemicals are also included. Everyday the sheet is updated & a copy of this sheet is supplied to the AGM (production), Dye house& lab section.

Spares:In Micro Fibre Ltd. required amount of spares of different machines are stored in the

mechanical store room. All the spares are listed in a sheet which is controlled by the mechanical& maintenance personnel. Spares are arranged in the store room according to their size, quantity& requirements. There are shelves in the store room to keep the small spare parts.

Finished goods:Micro Fibre Ltd. supplies its finished dyed fabrics to its garments section. So dyed

finished fabrics are stored for short time in the finishing section. All the delivered fabrics are

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noted on the tally khata according to the lot no, quantity, fabrics diameter, buyers name, color &considering other technical parameters.

Remarks:Micro Fibre Ltd. has individual stores for raw materials, finished goods etc. There is not

enough space to store the finished goods. It requires increasing the store area. The store forinventory control is satisfactory. Sometime, they fluctuate from ideal process otherwise they areok

CHAPTER-11COST ANALYSIS

The following points are considered for costing any dyed product in Micro Fibre Ltd.

1. Total dyes & chemical cost2. Total utility cost3. Salary4. Payment5. Transport cost6. Lunch7. Entertainment cost8. Miscellaneous cost9. Government cash incentive

Price of the product: Not provided

Costing of the product: Not provided

Remarks:

The costing of the product is a secret matter of the Ind. They are not interested to flash upthe cost related data. So we could not collect the price of product & costing of the product.

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CHAPTER-12MARKETING ACTIVITIES

Consumers of Product:Micro Fibre Ltd. is a 100% export oriented industry. All the goods produced in this

industry are exported into various foreign countries. Name of the main buyers are given below-

Name of buyer:01.C&A02. H&M03. ZARA04. TESCO05. TCHTBU06. JORDACHE07. HOFLER08. MASCOT09. Liam David Ltd.(BHS)10. CELIO11. Loom Fashion Ltd.12. Mim Fashion wear Ltd.13. Marks & Spencer

Product Label:Product label differs from fabric to fabric. The product labels are prepared according to

the quality & the buyer requirements .

Package Size & Label:Package size & label differs from buyer to buyer. The Package size & label are prepared

according to the buyer requirements. Normally the following package sizes are used:-60 x 40 x 40 cm.58 x 33 x 44 / 43 / 42 cm.58 x 33 x 25 cm.58 x 33 x 13 / 16 / 18 cm.

Local Market:Micro Fibre Ltd. is a 100% export oriented industry. All the goods produced in this

industry are exported into various foreign countries . So, goods are not supplied into local

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market.But when garments are rejected by buyer,then the rejected garments are sold in localmarket.

Importing countries:There are some countries which are importing goods from Micro Fibre Ltd. The name of

the countries are given below-• Spain• Germany• Denmark• Europe• Denmark• Europe Union• United State of America

Manpower of marketing:Marketing plays a vital role in the field of displaying / showing the goods criteria of the

products to the buyer & to communicate with the buyer. There are about 15 people in themarketing section of the industry.

Marketing strategy:Marketing strategy is a very important factors to sale the products to the buyer. If the

marketing strategy is not so developed, it will be very hard to reach the goal. In case of garmentsmarketing the dealings with the buyer is a very important factor.

In Micro Fibre Ltd. mainly senior marketing officers, merchandiser & higher officials deal withthe buyer. There are some fixed buyers of the industry. The buyers give their orders continuouslyall over the year. The marketing officers & the merchandisers communicate with the buyinghouses to collect the orders.

Duties and responsibilities of marketing officer:

Dealing with the buyer & convince the buyer is the main duty of marketing officer. Amarketing officer also has some other duties. The main duties & responsibilities of a marketingofficer are given bellow-

• To prepare cost sheet by dealing with the buyer• To take different steps by discussing with the high officials & merchandisers• To maintain a regular & good relationship between commercial officer &merchandisers

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• To maintain a communication with the buyers and buying houses• Communicate with better criteria of the products

Actually the responsibilities & duties of marketing officer begins from getting order of buyer &ends after receiving foods by the buyer. So, he should be always smart, energetic & sincere.

Remarks:Micro Fibre Ltd. has a well learned marketing & merchandising team. They always

communicate with the buyers. Micro Fibre Ltd. has some fixed buyers. The marketing sectionalso looks for the quality & quantity buyers.

CHAPTER -13CONCLUSION

Technical education and its adoption in practical field we involved inextricably, without theimplementation of the knowledge gathered in technical education its success is bound to suffer.

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Therefore, this one and half long industrial attachment as a partial fulfillment of our B.Sc inTextile Technology course helped us to accomplish the gap between theoretical and practicalknowledge by providing an elementary idea about industrial environment processing machines,tools and equipments, production system and maintenance, administration and managementsystem.

The completion of the two months Industrial Attachment at Micro Fibre Ltd. we have gotthe impression that factory is one of the most modern export oriented knit composite complex inBangladesh. Though it was established few years ago, it has earned ‘very good reputation’ for itsbest performance over many other export oriented textile mills. We have also understood thatMicro Fibre Ltd. cares a lot about there quality. During our Training period we have rarely seenfaulty dyeing. If there was any problem it was quickly removed with the help of experienced andskilled production manager. During this period we have never seen any striping of color fromfabric; though for this we couldn’t learn how stripping is done but it we think it is good forindustry. The quality of dyed fabric is very good. In testing lab we have seen the most dyed batchhas wash fastness 4-5. After dyeing the strength was well over of buyer’s requirement. Above allthis quality was maintained with using least amount of chemicals.

There are some suggestions from us within our limited knowledge

Some Suggestions:

- More skilled labor should be used in a project and the overall efficiency willincrease.

- The m/c stoppage time should be analyzed and minimized. The maintenance shouldbe carried out when the m/c is out of action (wherever possible) and routinemaintenance should be carried out regularly.

- There should be a spinning project then Micro Fibre Ltd. will not have to buy yarnfrom outside hence a lot money will be saved.

- The job environment of production office should be much better.- Merchandising section should be much responsible about the whole order.

Limitations of the Report:

- We had a very limited time. In spite of our willing to study more details it was notpossible to do so.

- Some of the points in different chapter are not described as these were not available.

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- The whole process is not possible to bind in such a small frame as this report, henceour effort spent on summarizing them.

Lastly:

We tried our best to gather all necessary information but it is true that within this shortperiod it is quite impossible to achieve 100% success but as a whole this industrial training was asatisfactory one and once again wed would like to thank the authority of Micro Fibre Ltd. aswell as our honorable teachers far their altruistic help and advice. We are fortunate enough thatwe have got an opportunity to have training in this mill. During the training period we havereceived enough co-operation and association from the authority and found all personnel. Allstuffs and officers were very sincere and devoted their duties to achieve their goal.

Indistrial attachment of micro fibre Group

Engineering

Transcript of Indistrial attachment of micro fibre Group