Jewellery Designing

Indian jewellery

By:

Neeru Jain

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•Factors affecting the choice of materials include cultural

differences and the availability of the materials.

•Jewellery differs from other items of personal adornment in that it

has no other purpose than to look appealing. Items such

as belts and handbags are consideretobe accessories rather

than jewellery.

JewelleryJewellery is a type of accessory that includes

necklaces, rings, bracelets, watches, and earrings, etc.Jewellery is designed for men, women, and children

and can be made from a variety of different categoriesJewelry started about 1,00,000 years ago, Began with materials made from bone, teeth, wood

and shellThe first known jewelry pieces were worn by the Cro-

Magnons about 40,000 years ago, These pieces were made of bone and teeth and were

worn as necklaces and earrings to show tribal membership. Later on incorporated beads, stone & gems.

Egyptians were first to use gold and metals for creating jewelry,

Jewellery were considered a symbol of power and wealth.

Types of Indian jewellery

In India, jewelry is designed to match with the attire. The theme of its design as well as the color of the jewelry is taken into consideration while adoring. To make jewelry more attractive, it is topped by diamonds and various types of gems.

Traditionally, Indian jewelry has been made of heavy and voluminous gold pieces, but recently jewelry made of silver, platinum and other metals has become quite popular among people. The popularity of jewelry made of stone, encrusted on metal, has grown more recently. In the following lines, we will tell you about the different kinds of jewelry in India. 

ANTIQUE JEWELLERY The jewelry which is not in

mainstream production and of which the mode of production is no longer popular is known by the name of 'Antique Jewelry.' This kind of jewelry has dull and rough look, combined with an old world-world charm, and this serves as the major USP of such jewelry. It takes you back to yore era, by its unfinished and dull looks. The jewelry pieces in antique jewelry usually belong to a particular period of history, when its popularity was at its peak. 

In India, you can find antique jewelry in numerous forms, like meenakari , kundan work, and so on. Those pieces of antique jewelry that are extremely rare are usually sold at auctions, in antique stores and curio shops. They include the jewelry that belongs to the early period of history. It is this rarity ofantique jewelry that makes it so appealing. However, at times, jewelry that is furnished in antique pattern is also given the name of antique jewelry. 

BEAD JEWELLERYBead art in India is five

thousand year old and dates back to the time of Indus Valley, ivory and even wood. The excavated carried out there came out with finished and unfinished beads from the site. After looking onto them, one gets amazed at the wonderful sense of bead work and jewelry at that time.

The bead making part of making bead jewelry is extremely intricate and time consuming. As regards the procedure for the same, the material out of which beads are to be made is first chiseled to obtain a desired shape and size. Thereafter, a hole is drilled into the material.

Bridal jewellery Indian brides wear jewelry

sets that are made in gold, be it necklaces, bangles, anklets and earrings. Many a time, the bridal jewelry is set with diamonds and other precious stones. The modern day bride prefers to have some modern wearable items of gold jewelry in her trousseau. Not many would like to be weighed down by heavy jewelry that cannot be worn often and will be more an invitation for thieves. Come the wedding season and you can see crowds thronging the jewelry stores. Indian bridal jewelry has always been considered her 'streedhan' - personal wealth that would stand in good stead in times of need.

Custom jewelleryCustom jewelry

is personalized jewelry, which a customer gets her made on her interest and fancy. This happens particularly in cases where ready made jewelry does not match the taste of person.

Custom jewelry gives total freedom to customer about the specifics. She can ask for various personal touches and get everything made as per her ideas. In fact, it gives ample space for personal choice and taste to customer, which is not available in case of ready made jewellery.

Fashion jewelleryFashion jewelry is also called

costume jewelry, mainly for the reason that it is not made of precious metals and stones, rather lighter and cheaper material are used. For those who are open to experimentation with new and unusual designs, shapes and colours, costume jewelry offers plethora of choices.

Rather than using precious ingredients, like gold, silver, platinum and white gold, fashion jewelry designers use cheap products, like jute, leather, peppier mache, bakelite plastic, wood, bone, stone, oxidized metal, horn, lac, terracotta, etc. 

Filigree jewelleryFiligree work is done on

silver and involves lots of precision and technicality, added with great amount of patience and an eye for minute details. Historically, filigree work was quite popular in countries like Egypt, Italy, and Spain.

Indian filigree work is unique in its genre and aesthetics. It is immensely inspired by Greek filigree work, the same style and old charm has been kept intact till now, by Indian artisans. Filigree jewelry is mainly popular in Orissa and Andhra Pradesh. 

Gold jewelleryGold is a metal that lures many.

It gives the security against any financial crisis, because of its easy liquidity, and is also used by women for adorning themselves. Traditionally, gold has been considered auspicious among Hindus and is regarded to be symbolic of Lakshmi, the Goddess of Wealth.

Gold is symbol of perfection, immortality and prosperity; it is the substance that myths and legends are made of. It is a favorite for making jewelry, for the reason that it is anti-rust and has an everlasting shine.

Handmade jewelleryA major chunk of jewelry in the

country is made by independent craftsmen. Traditionally also, a significant part of jewelry manufacturing has been handmade jewelry.

Big and feudal families used to have their personal jewelers, who would entertain their demand. These jewelers were expected to design ornaments, keeping in mind the individual needs and desires of customers.

Ivory jewelleryJewelry that is made from

the tusk of an elephant is called ivory jewelry. Importance of ivory jewelry can be guessed from the fact that in Gujarat, the bride receives an ivory bangle from her family just before marriage as jewelry.

During marriage ceremony wearing of ivory bangles is must for bride in some regions of the country. For example, in Rajasthan also, ivory bangles form a part of bridal jewelry. Other than bangles, ivory pendant that is attached to a necklace or earring is quite popular in India.

Jadau jewelleryJadau Jewelry forms one of the

major examples of high skilled craftsmanship that was brought into India by Mughals. Historically speaking, the tradition of Jadau work has been in practice in the states of Rajasthan and Gujarat since the Mughal era.

Jadau jewellery is also called engraved jewelry and is unique and a kind in itself. Considered to be a traditional jewelry of India, it is used in many traditional and auspicious occasions.

Kundan jewellery

During Mughal period, the art of kundan work reached Rajasthan from Delhi. Later on, craftsmen from the different part of the country migrated to the place and made Rajasthan a hub of Kundankari. 

Rulers and feudal lords gave patronage to the art and it developed into perfection. Kundankari is basically done on gold and silver jewelry. Traditional kundan jewellery has stones encrusted on one side and colorful and intricate meenakari on the reverse.

Lac jewelleryLac jewelry, also known as

lacquer jewelry, originated in Rajasthan and has gained considerable popularity in India today. Lac jewelry is available in versatile designs, which add to its beauty. Bangles made of Lac are of bright color and glass work done on them makes them more attractive. Rajasthani people believe that lac bangles bring good omen to those who wear them..

This prominent craft of Rajasthan was initially developed by tribal people of the state. Some of the major accessories included in lac jewelry, like Bala, Bajuband, Rakhi, Jod, Gajra, Gokhru, Timaniyan, are extremely popular.

Meenakari jewellery In Meenakari jewelry, precious

stones are set and then enameled with gold. Historically speaking, the art was introduced to Rajasthan artisans by Raja Mansingh of Amer. He invited Lahore-based skilled artisans to his kingdom, and their intermingling with the locals craftsmen resulted in an amalgam, which came to be known as Meenakari.

Meenakari is also a team work, where specialization of skill is of paramount importance. As it is generally done on the reverse side of kundan jewellery, meenakar has to work with goldsmith, engraver or ghaaria, designer or chitteria as well as jadiya. 

Navratna jewellery In Navratna jewelry, nine

auspicious stones are used in a single ornament. The belief behind this is that the nine stones together ensure well being of the person who wears it. In India, Navratna jewelry has been given major importance, because of its astrological significance as well as its innate charm.

The nine stones used in the jewelry diamond, ruby, emerald, coral, pearl, sapphire, garnet, topaz, and cat's eye. As it is believed in astrology, each planet watches over one of the nine gems and offer power. 

Pachchikam jewellery In the world of fashion and

design, old trends tend to come over again and again, though with slight changes. Pachchikam jewelry making craft is one of the examples of jewelry that has come back once again.

Originated in Gujarat and Kutch, centuries ago, Pachchikam jewelry has again become popular and now, is very much in fashion. Many contemporary designers are today inspired by the art of Pachchikam jewelry and they are leading the way for furtherdevelopment in the art.

Silver jewellerySilver Jewelry, along

with gold jewelry, is quite popular amongst Indian women. Ornaments made of silver, such as rings, bracelets, chains, necklaces, nose rings, earrings, toe rings, heavy kadas, and armlets, form integral part of Indian jewelry.

Whereas gold jewelry has been the most popular among Indian women since ages, silver jewelry is not far behind in popularity. Apart from cities, it finds solace in the rural areas and tribal areas of the country as well. In fact, silver made jewelry is forms an integral part of the adoration and dress of tribal people.

Stone jewellery Jewelry studded with different

gems is quite popular among Indians. For reasons ranging from spiritual to aesthetic to health, gemstone jewelry has become the part of life of Indian women and men both. These stone jewelries are worn according to the individual's astrological chart and ruling of planet.

Navaratna i.e. the combination of nine gems together, to form a necklace forms important part in the life and fashion of Indian women. These stones are believed to have extraordinary healing power. 

Temple jewelleryIndian jewelry art is at times

divided into three kinds - temple jewelry, spiritual jewelry and bridal jewelry. Temple jewelry of India initially used to be described as the jewelry used to adorn the idols of Gods and Goddesses. The statues In India were ornamented with chunky necklaces that were either strung with beads or crafted with intricate filigree.

Amongst the other ornaments that adorned statues of deities were large chunky bangles, usually studded with gems. In addition, earrings, nose rings and anklets were also used.

Tribal jewelleryTribal jewelry in India is quite

rich. Each tribe has kept its unique style of jewelry intact even now. Jewelry that is made of bone, wood, clay, shells and crude metal, by tribals, is not only attractive, but also holds a distinct rustic and earthy charm. BanjaraThis nomadic tribe of Rajasthan is known for its colorful heavy jewelry. Beautifulornaments and belts that are embellished with shells, metal-mesh, coins, beads, and chains are major jewelry art work by this tribe.

BastarThe tribes of Bastar (Madhya Pradesh) make jewelry out of grass, beads and cane. Traditional ornaments made of silver, wood, glass, peacock feathers, copper and wild .

Arunachal Pradesh Tribes The tribes in Arunachal Pradesh make jewelry from cane and bamboo. They also adorn metal coin necklaces and waistbands of leather, studded with stones. wers are also popular.

Terracotta jewelleryTerracotta is an Italian word that

literally means cooked earth and the material is hard red earthenware. Terracotta is used for making earthen handicrafts and pots etc. In the rural and tribal societies the earthen ornaments like necklaces, bracelets, pendants, and chokers were quite commonly used. 

Today the terracotta jewelry makes exotic dressing style when worn with the traditional nomadic or tribal dresses. It can take up various earthen colors of pink, red, rust or gray creating a rustic appeal. The traditional shapes can be animals or the tribal gods or a more contemporary look can be given by using abstract shapes. The earth is first molded into the desired form and then baked in the kiln or in sun.