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Gu

jar

at

Gujarat

Savor the history and romance, colors and textures, rhythms and dances of a land where time has never stood still.

From the rocky heights of the Sahyadri Mountains across to the salt flats of the Desert of Kachchh, Gujarat has something for everyone. Wander through remains of ancient Indus Valley civilizations; venture to meet the lions of Gir Forest; soak in the legacy of Mahatma Gandhi; dance on the streets for nine nights of Navratri. Enjoy an unparalleled ethos of hospitality. Experience vibrant crafts, exquisite architecture, rich wildlife reserves, colorful festivals and eclectic traditions. Join five millennia of seafarers, merchants and settlers from around the globe and come discover Gujarat.

five thousand years of civilization

india Guide offers:

• An inside perspective on the region • Information on uncharted areas • More than 300 color maps and images• Local insight into customs and lifestyles • Opportunities to volunteer in the local community

india Guide believes in responsible travel.

Gujarat

volume1 ounce = 28 grams1 gram = 0.036 ounces1 liter = 1.82 US pints1 US pint = 0.55 liters1 liter = 1.76 Imperial pints1 Imperial pint = 0.568 liters1 liter = 1.05 US quart1 US quart = 0.95 liters1 liter = 0.88 Imperial quarts1 Imperial quart = 1.137 liters1 liter = 0.26 US gallons1 US gallon = 3.79 liters1 liter = 0.22 Imperial gallons1 Imperial gallon = 4.55 liters

Weights1 gram = 0.04 ounces1 ounce = 28.35 grams1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds1 pound = 0.45 kilograms1 stone = 6.35 kilograms1 British ton = 1016 kilograms1 US ton = 907 kilograms

lengths & area1 centimeter = 0.39 inches1 inch = 2.54 centimeters1 meter = 3.28 feet1 foot = 0.305 meters1 kilometer = 0.62 miles1 mile = 1.61 kilometers1 yard = 0.91 meters1 meter = 1.09 yards1 hectare = 2.47 acres1 acre = 0.40 hectares

fahrenheit-centigrade: subtract 32 and divide by 1.8centigrade-fahrenheit: multiply by 1.8 and add 32

0 °C = 32 °F20 °C = 68 °F37 °C = 98.6 °F40 °C = 104 °F

One lakh equals 100,000 (one hundred thousand) and is written in India as 1,00,000.

One crore equals 10,000,000 (ten million) and is written in India as 1,00,00,000.

CONVERSIONS

CITY MAPS

National Highway

State Highway

Road

Railway

Bridge

Main Bus Station

Railway Station

Airport

General Post Office

Main Police Station

Accommodation

Restaurant

Heritage Site / Monument

Museum

Palace

Point of Interest

Hindu Temple

Mosque

Jain Temple

Fire Temple

Church

Gurudwara

Ashram

Non-profit Organization

Internet/Courier/Shop/

Institution/Photo Lab/

Library/Cinema/Market

Money

Hospital

Fruit / Vegetable Market

Government Building

Theatre

Gardens / Parks

River / Lake

International Border

State Border

District Border

Fort Wall

ROAD MAPS

City / Town / Village

District Headquarters

State Capital

National Park

Wild Life Sanctuary

National Highway

State Highway

Road

MAP LEGEND

8

8

India Guide GujaratFirst International Edition Copyright © India Guide Publications, 2007

Published by India Guide Publicationsinfo@indiaguide.inwww.indiaguide.in

Publisher’s Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Desai, Anjali H.India Guide Gujarat / Anjali H. Desai, editor ; Vivek Khadpekar,assistant editor p. cm. ISBN 0-9789517-0-0 ISBN-13 978-0-9789517-0-2 1. Gujarat (India)—Description and travel. 2. Gujarat (India)—Guidebooks. 3. Gujarat (India)—History. 4. Gujarat (India)—Social life and customs. 5. Tourism—Developing countries. 6. India—Description and travel. I. Khadpekar, Vivek. II. Title.

DS485.G83 D47 2007954.7520--dc22

LCCN 2006933887CIP

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without the written permission of India Guide Publications.

Every effort has been made by the India Guide team to ensure that all information in this book is accurate. The authors and publishers will not accept responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience caused.

All rights reserved. All content in this book is based on the complete discretion of India Guide. India Guide does not accept advertisements or payment in exchange for listing or endorsing any place or business. India Guide researchers and writers do not accept discounts or payment for positive coverage.

Cover Images: Vivek Desai, Maria Durana, Anjali DesaiTitle Page Image: Courtesy of Gandhi Smarak Sangrahalaya

Printed at Pragati Offset Pvt. Ltd., India • www.pragati.com

IndIa guIde PublIcatIons | ahmedabad • houston

anjalI desaI assIsted by vIvek khadPekar

India is not just a place.

India is not just a people.

India is the celestial music,

And inside that music

Anybody from any corner of the globe

Can find the real significance of life.

Sri Chinmoy

the international boundaries on this map are neither claimed to be correct nor authenticated by the survey of India directives.

iii

the international boundaries on this map are neither claimed to be correct nor authenticated by the survey of India directives.

iv

v

Map of India iiiMap of Gujarat iv-vForeword 1Responsible Tourism 2

THE ULTIMATE GUJARAT EXPERIENCE 3-16

ABOUT GUJARAT 17-62Facts at a Glance 19 Geography 19History 20-26Economy 26-29Ecology 30-32Religion 32-37Architecture 37-41Literature 41-42Theatre 42-43Dance 43-44 Music 44-46Art 46-47People 48-50In the Footsteps of Gandhiji 51-56Krishna in Gujarat 57-62

TABLE OFCONTENTS

FAIRS & FESTIVALS 63-76

ITINERARIES 77-78

AHMEDABAD 79-110 Ahmedabad District 83-110

SOUTHERN GUJARAT 111-160Surat District 115-124 Valsad District 125-130 Navsari District 131-136 The Dangs 137-145 Narmada District 146-153 Bharuch District 154-160

EASTERN GUJARAT 161-210Vadodara District 165-179 Dahod District 180-185Sabarkantha District 186-194 Anand District 195-204 Kheda District 205-210

NORTHERN GUJARAT 211-236Patan District 216-221Mahesana District 222-227Banaskantha District 228-236

SAURASHTRA 237-306Bhavnagar District 241-250 Junagadh District 251-264 Diu 264-270 Porbandar District 271-276 Jamnagar District 277-288 Rajkot District 289-297 Surendranagar District 298-306

KACHCHH 307-334Kachchh District 311-334

NUTS & BOLTS 335-356Climate 338Packing Checklist 338In & Out 339Visas & Documents 339-340Health 340-344Toilets 344-345Money 345-346Tourist Information 346Getting Around 346-349Accommodation 349Business Hours 349-350Shopping 350Communication 350-351Electricity 351

Safety 351-352Legalities 352Prohibition & Liquor Permits 352Disabled Travelers 352Gay & Lesbian Travelers 352Travel with Children 352Women Travelers 353Photography 353Laundry 353Wildlife Sanctuaries &National Parks 354City Names 354Culture & Community 354-356

RESOURCE GUIDE 357-390Crafts 359-364 Cuisine 365-369 Language Guide 370-374 Glossary 375-380Index 381-388Boxed Text & Map Index 389User Guide 390Acknowledgements 391-392

�

The inspiration for India Guide surfaced from a conversation between a small group of friends who have been living in India for some time. We intently discussed our desire to share with others the deep bond and affection that we have for the country, while also communicating the colorful, often incredible experiences that we encounter on a daily basis. And so we planted the seeds for India Guide—a travel guide written by people that are largely local or possess first-hand knowledge of India. One that draws attention to destinations off the beaten path, places that encompass the essence of all that is amazing in this country. India Guide is for the traveler who wants to connect with local people, explore the stretches between major cities and major sights and immerse all five senses and sensibilities into a space that demands reflection and offers new perspective. Although the Taj Mahal and scenic beaches of Goa offer a glimpse into the splendor of India, they do not encompass the complete spectrum of her majesty. India Guide is a humble endeavor to highlight the hidden treasures of India while cheering on the spirit of exploration and discovery.

For the first of the India Guide series, we selected Gujarat, a state we know intimately and one that is rarely seen as a travel destination. Beyond its kaleidoscope of attractions, Gujarat hosts a unique culture of enterprise, hospitality and diversity. Just as Gujaratis have spread around the world, they have openly welcomed people, ideas and customs of various backgrounds into their own land. India Guide Gujarat is a celebration of this warm ethos. India Guide Publications is a team of passionate travelers (supported by a network of topic experts) who speak the local language and understand the culture. Our values are strongly rooted in knowledge-based traveling and built upon four principles: cultural sensitivity, supporting the local economy, respecting nature and reducing the negative impact of our footprint wherever we may tread. We encourage self-reliance and empowerment through information and cheer on those who take the road less traveled.

FOREWORD

As each journey extends into the world around us,it reaches an equal distance into the world within.

Anonymous

�

RESPONSIBLETOURISM

As the globe grows increasingly smaller, we must each do our part in taking care of it. Since our choices and attitudes impact the world of tomorrow we have highlighted a few guidelines that promote conscious traveling in an effort to preserve the treasures of today for the next generation of travelers.

Cultural Sensitivity Travel with an open mind to really immerse in a new culture. Make it a habit to always look, listen and learn in order to better understand and internalize the local way of life. Try to do some research and get to know the area—its history, customs and cultural norms. The proper context will help enhance your sensitivity towards the place. Take the time to learn a few phrases of the language to really connect with people. Respect the appropriate dress codes and norms of each environment.

Support the Local Economy Stay at locally owned accommodations, eat foods native to the area and purchase products made with indigenous materials. Help support local artisans and preserve craft traditions by buying handcrafted goods. And when time allows, get to know the person behind the craft.

Respect Nature Make the effort to conserve your water and power use. Recycle whenever possible. Minimize the use of plastic by keeping a cloth bag on you to carry your purchases. Avoid water pouches when possible. Hold on to your waste until you have access to proper disposal facilities. Do not remove anything from its natural environment, and when in nature, follow trails and travel in small, unobtrusive groups.

Reduce the Negative Impact of your Footprint Always try to be aware of your actions and their possible affects. When taking photos, especially of women, ask for permission first since it can be obtrusive and disrespectful; in some communities it may even be taboo. Try not to make promises to people such as return visits and sending pictures if you can not follow through with them. Giving money to beggars only reinforces their behavior. Instead donate to or get involved in local social organizations that know and work with the area’s underprivileged communities.

�

�

THE ULTIMATEGUJARAT EXPERIENCE

�

SOMNATH Junagadh districtVisit this omnipotent shrine, which has been destroyed and rebuilt six times and houses one of India’s 12 sacred jyotirlingas. (p 263)

THE ULTIMATE GUJARAT EXPERIENCE

1

The following is a selection of some of Gujarat’s highlights, which promise to offer you an unforgettable experience. For more information refer to the page number listed after each highlight.

7777

SuGGESTEd ITInERARIES

All of these itineraries assume Ahmedabad as the starting point. Spend the night at the last place listed for each day. Refer to the relative section of the book for more information about each destination.

kAchchhDay 1 Ahmedabad-Bhuj-Bhujodi-Bhuj Day 2 Bhuj-Banni-Hodka-Bhuj Day 3 Bhuj-Nirona-Zura-Than-Moti Virani Day 4 Moti Virani-Nakhatrana (for bus connection)-Koteshwar-Lakhpat-Nakhatrana (for bus connection)-Moti Virani Day 5 Moti Virani-Nakhatrana (for bus connection)-Mandvi Day 6 Mandvi-Bhuj Day 7 Bhuj-Ahmedabad

For anyone interested in the Indus Valley civilization or archaeology, add dholavira to the itinerary and give one full day to visit the site. It is best approached by private vehicle. If you have the time you should add the following to the beginning or end of your kachchh itinerary.

Day 1 Ahmedabad-Dasada-Jhinjhuwada-Dasada Day 2 Dasada-Bhuj

SAuRAShTRATravel in Saurashtra is time consuming because of the long distances between destinations.

Day 1 Ahmedabad-Jamnagar Day 2 Jamnagar-Dwarka Day 3 Dwarka-Porbandar Day 4 Porbandar-Veraval/Somnath Day 5 Veraval/Somnath-Ahmedpur Mandvi and/or Diu Day 6 Ahmedpur Mandvi and/or Diu-Sasan Gir Day 7 Sasan Gir-Junagadh Day 8 Junagadh-Mt Girnar-Junagadh Day 9 Junagadh-Palitana Day 10 Palitana-Shihor-Bhavnagar OR Palitana-Ahmedabad Day 11 Bhavnagar-Lothal-Ahmedabad

noRThERn GuJARATDay 1 Ahmedabad-Dasada Day 2 Dasada-Modhera-Patan-Mahesana Day 3 Mahesana-Vadnagar-Idar Day 4 Idar-Vijaynagar and Polo-Kadoli Farm (Rent a car to travel the Vijaynagar-Polo Circuit)Day 5 Kadoli Farm-Shamlaji-Ahmedabad OR Vijaynagar-Udaipur in Rajasthan (160km) OR Vijaynagar-Ambaji-Mt Abu in Rajasthan (137 km)

7878

EASTERn/SouThERn GuJARATDay 1 Ahmedabad-Vadodara Day 2 Vadodara Day 3 Vadodara-Champaner-Pavagadh-Chhota Udepur Day 4 Chhota Udepur*-Sankheda-Dabhoi-Vadodara Day 5 Vadodara- Saputara (Skip the national highway and take a scenic drive (6 hrs) along the following route: Dabhoi-Tilakwada-Garudeshvar-Rajpipla-Netrang-Mandvi-Valod-Vansda-Saputara. Buses also travel from Vadodara to Saputara.)Day 6 Saputara-Explore the Dangs-Saputara Day 7 Saputara-Surat-Vadodara OR Saputara-Vansda-Dharampur-Valsad

*It is possible to travel from Chhota Udepur via Dahod to Ujjain/Bhopal in Madhya Pradesh. From Surat and Valsad frequent trains travel to both Ahmedabad and Mumbai.

AhMEdABAd cITyThis is a suggested two-day itinerary for anyone spending some time in the city. Read the Ahmedabad City section for a more details on each place. Rickshaws and buses are the best way to get around the city. A private vehicle would be nice for visits to Sarkhej and Adalaj, but not necessary.

Day 1 0800-1030 Heritage Walk* 1030-1330 Adalaj Stepwell Lunch Swati Snacks 1500-1700 Gandhi Ashram Dinner Seva Cafe Post-Dinner Walk through Manek Chowk or Law Garden at night

Day 2 1030-1200 Calico Museum* 1200-1330 Hutheesing Temple and Siddi Saiyed Mosque Lunch Green House at Lal Darwaza 1430-1630 Explore Walled City 1630-1800 Sarkhej Roza (watch sunset) Dinner/Entertainment Vishala/Vechaar Museum (at least 2 hrs)

*These have scheduled tours, so be sure to follow the times listed.

If you are in Ahmedabad on a Sunday, make it to the Ravivari Market (Gujari) under Ellisbridge.

day excursions from Ahmedabad

Patan-Modhera-Siddhpur IdarSojali Jhinjhuwada (lunch at Zainabad)AnandWadhwan and surroundings

weekend excursions from Ahmedabad

Dasada-Zainabad-JhinjhuwadaPalitana-ShihorChampaner-Pavagadh

307

308

KACHCHH

309

KACHCHH

AT A GLANCE 311

KACHCHH DISTRICT 312Bhuj 312Bhujodi 320Dhamadka 321Rudramata 321Kotay 321Kera 321Dhrang 322Sumrasar 322Bhirandiyara 322Ludiya 323Navavas 323Khavda 323KaloDungar 324Hodka 324Dhordo 324Jura 324Nirona 324ThanMonastery 325DinodharHill 325ChavdaRakhal 325BohterYaksh 325MotiVirani 325FulayPlains 325KiroDungar 325ChhariDhandh 326Lakhpat 326NarayanSarovar 327Koteshwar 327NaniRav 327

Dholavira 327Mandvi 328Koday 331Bada 332NavjivanNatureCureCentre 332Rayan 332Mundra 332Bhadreshwar 333GettingInvolved 333

309

310

AT A GLANCE

With its notable mud architecture, a medleyof craft traditions and exquisite apparel, thiseminentlycolorfulandculturally rich landhasawonderfulhandcraftedfeel.Eachcommunityhas its own oral traditions, dance, craft anddress. Stretching along the Tropic of Cancer,from Rajasthan to the edge of Pakistan andthe Arabian Sea, Kachchh covers a little over45,000 sq km and is geographically one ofIndia’slargestandmostdistinctivedistricts.

Bhujodi

Sumrasar

Ludiya

Hodka

Fulay PlainsThan

Nirona

RayanKoday

Kera

Kotay DhamadkaDhrang

Nakhatrana

GREAT RANN OF KACHCHH

KACHCHH

Kandla

Bhuj

Lakhpat

MundraMandvi

Koteshwar

NarayanSarovar

LITTLERANN OFKACHCHH

Gandhidham

Bhadreshwar

Khavda

Naliya

Dholavira

Rapar

Moti Virani

AHMEDABAD

Bhirandiyara

Dhordo

Nani Rav

Wild AssSanctuary

ChhariDhandh

311

KACHCHH

311

BHUJ¼ws

KACHCHH DISTRICT

Aregionofenvironmentalextremes,Kachchhextendsfromthesaltymarshesin the north and the east through the grasslands of Banni and the centralhighlandsdowntotheverdantcoastalongtheGulfofKachchh.

The Indus River once flowed into the Great Rann near Lakhpat, but in 1819,whenanearthquakeraisedabank,thecourseshiftedwestwardandalteredthelandscapeofthearea.Theseawatersreceded,leavingbehindabroadswathofsalineswamps,otherwiseknownastheRannsofKachchh.WhentherainssubmergetheRanns,thelandbecomesavirtualislandresemblingthebackofaturtle,whichiscalledkutcho inthelocal languageandgivestheregionitsname.Thecoastandthemarshlandshostmanymigratoryanddomesticbirds,includinggiantflocksofflamingoes.

From the Great Rann rise sporadic outcrops of firm land known locally as beyt (island).Recentexcavationsononesuchbeyt knownasKhadirhaveunearthedthe most significant city, outside Pakistan, of the 5000-year-old Indus ValleyCivilization.Thesealsandpotterydiscoveredheresuggestthatitwasabustlingport, with links to places as far as Zanzibar and Mesopotamia. Throughout itshistory,untiltheadventofrailways,KachchhwasanimportantnodeonthetraderoutesofthispartofAsia.ThismercantiletraditionhasendowedKachchhiswithaninclusiveworldviewthatlongprecededcolonizationandglobalization.ExtensivecontactwiththeworldhasfosteredarichethnicmixinKachchhwhilethecontactwithSindh,aneighboringregioninPakistan,hasbeenparticularlyimportantinshapingitsculturalcontours,especiallylanguage,cuisineandcrafts.

The history of Kachchh as a kingdom begins in the 13th c. with the rule oftheSammaRajputs,whooriginatedinSindh.TheirdescendantLakhoJadejaestablishedtheclanoftheJadejaRajputs,whoreigneduntiltheregionmergedwiththeIndianUnion.In1549KhengarjiI(1548-85)consolidatedindependentterritoriesandshiftedthecapital fromAnjartoBhuj.UnderBharmal I (1586-1631)KachchhcameunderMughalrule.ThekingimpressedEmperorJahangirwithseveral lavishgiftsandfreepassageforpilgrimstoMecca. InexchangetheEmperorpardonedtheregionfrompayingtributeandgrantedpermissiontomintan independentKachchhicurrency, thekori.KingLakhpatji (1741-60)discovered Ramsang Malam, the legendary sailor turned master craftsman,andcommissionedhimtoconstructtheAinaMahal(glasspalace)amongothersplendid works. The king was also pivotal to the development of Kachchhipainting. Desal II (1834-60) campaigned against sati, female infanticide and

DISTRICT KACHCHH

BhujBhujodi

DhamadkaRudramata

KotayKera

DhrangSumrasar

BhirandiyaraLudiya

NavavasKhavda

KaloDungarHodka

DhordoJura

NironaDinodharHill

ChavdaRakhalBohterYaksh

MotiViraniFulayPlains

ChhariDhandhLakhpat

NarayanSarovarKoteshwar

NaniRavDholavira

MandviKodayBada

NavjivanNatureCure

RayanMundra

BhadreshwarGettingInvolved

Population 136,500 Area Code 02832 Distances - Ahmedabad 395 km Vadodara 465 km Rajkot 220 km

330

MandviLegend

Accommodation 2 Rukmavati Guest House9 Hotel Sea View 12 Sahara Guest House15 Maitri Guest House

Food & Drink13 Zorba The Buddha

21 Sarovar Restaurant

Places of Interest 1 Fort Tower26 Shipbuilding

Nuts & Bolts3 Regal Apex Forex4 Dena Bank ATM5 Rajeshwari Medical Store6 Vivek Computers7 Dr. Rana Surgical Hospital8 Bharat Bicycle Rental10 Sahajanand Travels11 Swaminarayan Travels

14 SBI ATM16 Book Shop17 SBI Bank18 Vegetable Market19 Old Swaminarayan Temple20 Dr. C. P. Sadhu Hospital22 General Post Office23 Tagore Open Theater24 Laxmi Cinema25 Light House

BhidGateKhatri

Bazaar

17

16

11 1012

14

ToPort

GT

Road

TopanserLake

ToB

hu

j

Man

dvi B

eachR

oad

Salaya

LakdaB

azaar

ToM

and

viB

each

ST

Road

Am

baji Ro

ad

ToSe

a

To Wind Farm

Beach

To Vijay Vilas Palace &Beach at Mandvi Palace

KansaraBazaarSangara

Bazaar Jhan

si Ki Rani Road

Swaminarayan Road

K T Shah RoadMochiBazaar

Ru

km

av

at

i R

iv

e r

18

7

56

43

2

1

20

19

21

23

22

24

25

Jain Dharamshala Road

AzadChowk

89

13

15

26

Getting AroundMandviisbestexploredonfoot.Rickshawsaregoodforfurtherdistances.BicyclescanberentedfromBharat Bicycle ShopJain Dharmashala RdatRs.30/day.

MoneyATMs SBILakda Bazaar, Nr Bhid GateandDena Bank Sea Eagle Talkies Rd, Nr Azad Chowk.Foreign Exchange Regal Apex Forex, Sea Eagle Talkies Rd. Money TransferWestern UnionisavailableattheGeneralPostOffice.

CommunicationInternet Vivek Computer CentreNr Azad Chowk, Opp Hotel Krishna isclosedonSundayafternoons.

381381

Aaarti 33 abbreviations 383 accommodation 349 Adalaj 39, 78, 109 Adani 29 Adi Kadi Vav 253 Adinath Temple 247 agate 363 agiari 37 Navsari Agiari 132 Udwada Agiari 128 agriculture 25-26 ahimsa 34-35, 52 Ahir community 71 Ahmed Shah I 22, 92 Ahmedabad Textile Mills Association (ATMA) 41 Ahmedabad 24, 40-41, 80-110,66, 71, 75, 364Ahmedpur Mandvi 264Ahwa 68, 144, 363Aina Mahal 311, 313Aitihasik Ambo 124Ajrakh 321, 323, 360Akbar 22Akhyana 41Alang 250Alauddin Khilji 22, 34Alfred High School 51, 55Allah 34Alphonso mango 125, 369amarlinga 327Amba Mata Temple 255Amba 43, 73, 191, 255Ambaji 32, 73, 235, 287, 364Ambika 126Amdavad ni Gufa 41, 98Amrutvarshini Vav 95Amul Dairy Cooperative 27, 195-197Anand District 195-204Anand Niketan Ashram 179Anand 27-28, 195-201Andrews Library 117Angar Pir 247Angra Mainyu 37Anklavadi 204AP Kanvinde 41appliqué 361, 364Aravali Mountains 19 architecture 37-41, 362Armenian Tombs 118 art Galleries 99 Baroda Museum and Art Gallery 99 Contemporary Art Gallery 99 Herwitz Gallery 98

Hutheesing Visual Arts Centre 97 Ravishankar Art Gallery 99Art of Living 204 art 46-47, 176, 359-364Artist Village 140 Arvind Mills 29 Asait Thakar 42 Ashapura Crafts Park 320 Ashapura 287, 321 Ashoka 20, 36, 254Ashokan Rock Edicts 36, 254ashram 96-97, 123, 156, 160,175, 204, 209, 276 Asiatic lion 30, 260Ataash Behram 128-129, 132ATM 345Aurangzeb no Killo 181Aurangzeb 23, 181avatar 62Avesta 37ayurvedic 103, 206, 281-282,291, 296, 332

BBabi Dynasty 255Bada 332Badshah no Hajiro (King’s Tomb) 92Bahadur Shah 22, 253, 265Balachadi 288Balaram 71, 57-58, 234Balaram-AmbajiSanctuary 213, 234Balasinor 209Baldevji temples 254Balej 276Balkrishna Doshi 41, 98Balundra 234bamboo ware 363Banaskantha District 228-236Bandhani 283, 301, 333, 360 Bangdi Bazaar 291Banni 32, 322-324, 361Banyan tree 52Bapu Upavas Khand Memorial 290Bara Saiyad 257Barda Hills Sanctuary 275Bardoli 53, 55, 123 bargaining 350 Baroda Museum and Art Gallery 167 Bavka 184 beaches 354 Ahmedpur Mandvi 264 Balachadi 288 Chakratirth 267 Dabdaba 288 Goghla 267 Jalandhar 267

Mandvi 329 Nagoa 267 Pirotan Island 288 Positra 288 Shivrajpur 288 Tiny Sandy Island 288 Wind Farm 329beadwork 363, 289 bell work 363 Bene Israel 37 Beyt Dwarka 286 Bhadrapad Purnima 73 Bhadreshwar 333 Bhagavad Gita 33, 60-61Bhairav 229 bhajans 45, 71, 255 Bhakti Movement 33, 41Bhalka Tirth 61 Bhansara 276 Bharat Mandir 272 Bharatiya SanskritiDarshan Museum 316 Bharuch District 154-160Bharuch 22, 113, 154-155, 157-160, 354Bharvad community 48-49Bhasha Research andPublication Centre 179Bhavai 42-43Bhavnagar District 241- 250Bhavnagar 48, 241-246Bhavnath Festival 68Bhavnath Temple 254Bhidbhanjan Temple 281Bhil community 48, 75, 233Bhirindiyara 323Bhojay Sarvodaya Trust 333Bhrigu Rishi Temple 155Bhuj 68, 71, 311-320,359-361, 363Bhujiyo Kotho 279Bhujodi 361, 320bhunga 40, 319, 323Bileshvar 38Bilodra 2Bindu Lake 220birdwatching 32, 143, 175, 235, 260, 272, 305, 325 Blackbuck 31, 246-247Blind People’s Association 109Blind Welfare Council 185block making 362block printing 320, 332, 360, 362Bohra 214, 220-221Bohravad 221Bohter Yaksh 325Bollywood 46, 329book post 351

INDEX

382382

book restante 351Brahma 155, 186, 191Brahmakund 249British Crown 23British rule 24, 42, 47, 290British Tombs 118Buddha 36-37, 62, 192, 331Buddhism 20, 36-38, 254Buddhist Caves 20, 36,38, 249, 253 bus travel 347business hours 349

Ccalendar 65Calico Museum 46, 86Cambay 22-23, 203-204camping 144, 185, 235, 276car rental 346caste system 35Central Library 168Centre for Desert andOcean (CEDO) 325Centre for EnvironmentEducation (CEE) 109chabutro 40Chadar Saheb 36, 155chai 369Chakratirth beach 267Champaner 177-178Chamunda 34, 126, 303Chandi Bazaar 281Chandod 175Chandrisar Talav 303chaniya cholis 98, 170, 350charkha 53, 97Charles Correa 41, 96, 98Chavda Rakhal 325Chetna 109chevdo 367Chhab Talav 181chhakadas 347Chhari Dhandh 326chhatardi 243, 314Chhatrapati Shivaji 23, 115, 143Chhota Udepur 66, 69-70,176, 359children (traveling with) 352Chinese 368Chintamani Jain Temple 118Chitra Vichitra Fair 69, 192, 234Chitrasani 213, 228-229, 231-236Chokrana 146Chorwad 44Chotila Hill 303chowpat 243Chowsingha 30-31Christianity 36Church of North India 36City Museum 97

Civil Disobedience 25, 54classical dance 66classical music 45-46, 66, 102 clay relief work 49, 359climate 19, 338colonialism 23communication 350constipation 342, 344Contemporary Art Gallery 99copper work 248coral reefs 30, 287-288cotton 19, 27, 360-361country code 350, 383courier 351cows 33craft 359-364credit cards 345cuisine 365-369culture and community 354-356customs 339

DD N High School 197Dabdaba 288Dabgharwad 88Dabhoi 174Dada Hari ni Vav 88Dadabhai Naoroji 24, 131, 197 Dahod District 180-185Dahod 48-49, 180-183Dakor 71, 209Dalit literature 42Dalits 24Dalmatian pelican 284, 326Dalpatbhai Danidharia 317Daman 129, 368 Damodar Kund 254dance 42-45, 48, 66, 68, 70,73, 98, 102, 167Dandi Yatra (see Salt March) Dandi 54-55, 96, 113, 131-132, 134-136, 197, 286 Dangi Nritya 44Dangis 48Dangs Darbar 68Dangs 44, 48, 137-145Danta 233Darbar Hall Museum 257Darya Pir Shrine 332Dasada 305-306Dashavatar RanchhodraiMandir 149Dastur Meherji-Rana Library 132Datar Hill 255Dattatreya 206, 324Dawoodi Bohras 221Dedadara 303Dediapada 153Dehotsarg 62Delhi Sultanate 22

Demoiselle cranes 32, 247Dengue Fever 342Devgad Baria 184, 359Devni Mori 192dhaba 368 Dhakkabari 254Dhalgarvad 92Dhamadka 321Dharampur 129dharma 33dharmashalas 349dhobi 353dhol 88Dholavira 327Dholka 108Dhoraji 297Dhoramnath 325Dhordo 324, 359, 364Dhori 321dhow building 273Dhrang Mela 68, 322Dhrang 68, 322Dhranghadra 304Dhuleti 68-69diamond 28, 120, 231diarrhea 341-344Digambar 35Dinodhar Hill 325dinosaur fossils 210disabled travelers 352Diu Fort 266Diu Museum 266Diu 264-270Diwali 73-74dormitory 349Dr. Babasaheb Ambedkar 36Dr. Verghese Kurien 196-197Drishti Media 109driver’s license 340drugs legalities 352 medical 344Durvasa 59Dutch Tombs 95, 118Dutch 95-96, 118, 155, 203 Dwarka 32, 57-62, 71, 285Dwarkadheesh 32, 285

EEast India Company 23, 115Echo Point 140economy 26-29embroidery 47, 48-49, 360EME Temple 168emergency contact numbers 383Environmental Sanitation Institute (ESI) 110European Tombs 118exchange rates 383excursions 383

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Ffairs 58, 65-76, 276, 297Faiyaz Khan 45farsan 367festivals 34-37, 65-76, 153flamingoes 30-31, 247, 305, 323 flat breads 366Flo Art 199folk art 47, 98, 316food 365-369, 373-374forest rest houses 349forest 19, 30 fossils 205, 210, 326French 90fruits 369Fulay Plains 325

GGaekwad 23, 39, 165Gandhi Ashram 96, Gandhi Labour Institute 41Gandhi nu Gam 323Gandhi Smriti 242Gandhi Smruti Bhavan 120Gandhiji 24, 51-56, 96-97,136, 242-243, 290Gandhinagar 68, 109Gando Baawal 322Ganesh Chaturthi 71, 98, 170 Ganesh 71, 98 Ganga Chhatardi 243 Ganga Vav 302 Gangeshvar Mahadev 175 Garasia community 234 Garba 43, 45, 167 Garbi 43, 303 Gaurishankar Lake 243 gay and lesbian travelers 352 general post office 349, 351 geography 19 George V Club 231 Getting Involved 383 Anand Niketan Ashram 179 Bhasha Research and Publication Centre 179 Bhojay Sarvodaya Trust 333 Blind People’s Association 109 Centre for Environment Education (CEE) 109 Chetna 109 Drishti Media 109 Environmental Sanitation Institute (ESI) 110 Gram Seva Trust 136 Gramshree 110 Heritage Trust 179 Hunnar Shala 333 Indicorps 110 Kachchh Nav Nirman

Abhiyan 333 Kala Raksha 333 Khamir Craft Resource Centre 333 Kutch Mahila Vikas Sangathan (KMVS) 334 Manav Kalyan Trust 136 Manav Sadhna 110 Muni Seva Ashram 179 Parsanben Narandas Ramji Society (PNR) 250 Sadguru Water and Development Foundation 185 Sahjeevan 334 Samanvay Resource Center 185 Sanghavi Farm 130 Seva Rural 160 SEWA 110 Shantigram Nirman Mandal 160 Shree Bidada Sarvodaya Trust 334 Shroff Foundation 179 Shrujan Trust 334 Tribhuvandas Foundation 204 Vivekanand Gramodyog Society (VGS) 334 Vivekanand Research and Training Institute (VRTI) 334 V-One Society 179Ghaus Mohammed no Kubo 326 ghazal 45 Ghoghla Beach 267 Ghudkhar 30-31, 305 Ghumli 287 Gir Forest 260 Gir National Park 260, 354 Gira Falls 143 Girmal Falls 145 Girnar Taleti 254 globalization 26 Godmother 272 Golden Age 20 Golden Bridge 155 Gomti Ghat 285 Gondal 296Gop 38, 286Gopi Talav 60Govardhanram Tripathi 42, 205Gram Seva Trust 136Gramshree 101, 110grassland 30, 32, 322Great Famine 24Great Indian Bustard 31Great Rann of Kachchh 30Gregorian calendar 65guest houses 349Gujarat Ayurved University 281Gujarat Sultanate 22

Gujarat tourism office 346Gujarat Vidyapith 53, 101Gujarati Diaspora 26 Gujari 95, 350 Gulbai Tekra 98 Guru Nanak 35, 326 Gurudwara Chadar Saheb 155 gurudwara 36, 355 Chadar Saheb 155 Lakhpat 326

Hhaat 176, 182, 184, 350 hajj 34 Halepotra community 324Halvad 304 Hamirsar Lake 314 handicrafts (see craft) Harappan Civilization 20 Hari Om Ashram 209 Harijan 54 Harishchandra Chori 192 Harsiddhi Mata Mandir 149Hatgadh Fort 143 Hatkeshvar Temple 226 haveli 40, 170, 208-209,217, 221, 231 health 340-343 Hemachandracharya 41, 217 heritage hotels 349 Balaram Palace Resort 234 Bhavani Villa 233 Kadoli Farm 194 Kali Niketan 176 Nature Lover’s Retreat 178 Nilambagh Palace 245 Orchard Palace 296 Rajwant Palace 150 Riverside Palace 296 Royal Oasis 295 The Garden Palace 209 Vijay Vilas Palace 248Heritage Walk 78, 90, 274 Himatnagar 74, 194 Hindu calendar 65 Hinduism 32-34, 61 history 20-26 HIV/AIDS 185, 279, 343 Hodka 319, 324, 359, 362-364 Holi 68-69 home remedies 343 Honey Bees Center 140 Hope Bridge 117 horses 233-234, 306hospitality 355hotels 102-103, 349Hunnar Shala 333Hutheesing Jain Temple 87

IIdar Hill Fort (Idariyo Gadh) 188

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Idar 186-190Idi Amin 26Id-ul-Fitr 34immunizations 340-341India’s Independence 25, 54Indian commissions 340Indian embassies 340Indian Skimmer 326, 284Indicorps 110Indoor Stadium 120Indo-Saracenic 38Indus Valley Civilization 20, 37, 108, 311, 327 (see Harappan)industrialization 25, 32industry 27infections 343Institute of Indology 41, 98Institute of Rural Managementand Agriculture (IRMA) 199insurance 340, 352international flights 339Internet 351Iqbalgadh 234ISD 350Islam 34Islamic calendar 65

JJagat Mandir 285Jahanarabaug 231 Jain Temples 355 Bhadreshwar 333 Bohter Jinalaya 331 Chintamani 118 Hutheesing 87 Kumbharia 235 Mount Girnar 254 Palitana 247 Panchasara Parshvanath Derasar 217 Pavagadh 177 Talaja 249 Veraval 263 Vijaynagar 192-193Jainism 20, 34-35 Jalandhar Beach 267 Jalaram Temple 297 Jallianwala Bagh 53 Jama Masjid (Friday Mosque) Ahmedabad 92 Bharuch 155 Champaner 178 Junagadh 253 Khambhat 203 Rander 120 Sarkhej 106Jambudweep Temple 248 Jambughoda Sanctuary 178 Jamnagar District 57, 59-60,277-288

Jamnagar 277-284, 360, 363 Jamsetji Tata 131-132 Janmashtami 71, 285Japanese B Encephalitis 341jari 120Jath community 48jeevadaya 40Jessore Wildlife Sanctuary 236Jetpur 297, 360Jhinjhuwada 301, 306Joravar Palace 231Judaism 37Junagadh District 61-62,251-264, 354Junagadh 25, 36, 68, 251-259Jura 324 jyotirlingas 263, 286

KKaba Gandhi no Delo 51, 290Kabirvad 160Kachchh Eco-Education Tourism Cell 317Kachchh Mahila Vikas Sangathan (KMVS) 318, 323, 334Kachchh Mahotsav 68Kachchh Nav Nirman Abhiyan 333Kachchh 36, 47-49, 311-334, 359-360Kachchhi language 370Kacheri Hall 257Kadiadungar 160Kala Raksha 322, 333Kalam Khush 97Kali Temple 184, 217, 255Kalo Dungar (The Black Hill) 324kamangari 47, 249, 325Kamatibaug 167Kankai 261Kankaria Lake 39, 71, 95Kanoria Centre of Art 47, 97Kapadvanj 210, 221Karamsad 201karma 33, 35-36Karnavati 83Kasturba 51, 272Kasturbhai Lalbhai (KL) Campus 97Kathi tribe 240Kathiawad 19, 23, 240, 366Kavi Village 160Kawant Mela 70Kayavarohan 175Kera 321Kesar mango 262Kevadia Colony 152Khadi 53, 97, 102, 124,243, 290, 350 Khadir 311, 327Khambhalida 297Khambhat 203-204

Khamir Crafts Resource Center 318, 333Khanderao Market 170Khavda 323, 359, 360, 362, 369Kheda District 205-210Khedbrahma 191Khijada Mandir 279Khijadia Bird Sanctuary 284Kilad Nature Education Campsite 144Kiro Dungar 325Kirti Mandir 51, 170, 272Kirtistambha 231Kite Festival 66 (see Uttarayan)kite making 364 KM Munshi 42 Kochrab Ashram 52, 97 Koday 331 Koran 34 kori 311 Kotay Temple 321 Kotay 321 Koteshwar 327 Kothi Kacheri 170 Krishna 32, 34, 38, 43, 57-62,71, 209, 251, 276, 285-286kuldevi 34, 95, 217 Kumbharia 235 kund 40 Brahmakund 314 Damodar Kund 254 Ganga Kund 303 Kapadvanj Kund 220 Ladushah Kund 194 Ramkund 314 Suryakund 225Kutch Museum 314 Kutiyana 262

Llacquer work 175, 324, 362-363Lakho Jadeja 311 Lakhota Lake 279 Lakhota Museum 279 Lakhpat 326 Lakshmi 88 Lalbhai Dalpatbhai Museum 46 Lang Library 290 language 370 laundry 353Law Garden 98, 102Laxmi Vilas Palace 168LD Institute of Indology 41Le Corbusier 41, 97-98leatherwork 323-324, 364legalities 352leopard 137, 143, 178, 275 Lesser florican 32, 247Lili Parikrama Fair 74, 254Limbdi 303

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linga 34 lipan 40, 323, 359liquor permits 352literacy 19literature 41-42 Little Rann of Kachchh 30-31, 305Lothal 20, 38, 46, 108Louis Kahn 41, 98Ludiya 309, 323, 359, 362-363lunar calendar 65luxury buses 347

MM J Public Library 101M R Arts and Science College 149Maanbhatt 42maavo 322Madhavpur 58, 276Madhavraiji Temple 255Magen Abraham Synagogue 37Mahabat Maqbara 255Mahabharata 33, 69, 60, 62Mahagujarat Movement 25, 205Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda (MSU) 47, 167Mahashivaratri 68, 153Mahatma Gandhi 51-56, 96,124, 136 Mahavir Jayanti 35, 70Mahavira 35Mahesana District 222, 227Mahesana 49, 222, 224Mahmud Begada 22, 88, 106, 177Mahmud of Ghazni 22, 263Mahuda tree 48, 153 mail 351Maitrakas 20, 38Makata Lane 266malaria 342, 344Maldhari community 260Manav Kalyan Trust 136Manav Sadhna 52, 96, 110Mandvi 328-331, 360Manek Chowk 93-94, 106mangos 127, 135, 262, 369mangroves 288manjo 364Maratha Kingdom 115Maratha 23, 165Marine National Park andWildlife Sanctuary 287Marjan Shami Roza 118Mashru 219, 361Mata ni Pachedi 47, 90, 360Maurya 20Mecca 34Medical tourism 28Meghwal community 49, 322-324Mekran Dada 68, 321Mer community 276

metal ware 94, 248, 302, 364Minal Vav 297Minaldevi 108, 229, 297, 306minature painting 46, 98Mirabai 41, 45, 285Mithi Vav 229Miyan Khan Chishti’s Mosque 87mobile phones 351modern architecture 41, 98modern art 47Modhera Dance Festival 66Modhera 66, 225money transfers 345 money 345 monsoon 338 Morbi 295-296 mosque 356 Bai Harir 88 Dholka 108 Miyan Khan Chishti 87 Pavagadh 178 Rani Rupvati 91 Rani Sipri 94 Siddi Bashir 88 Siddi Sayid 94mosquitoes 342 Moti Virani 325, 363 Motu Derasar 231 Mount Girnar 74, 254 Mrugi Kund 254 Mughal 22-23 Mughalsarai 117 Muhammad Ali Jinnah 24 Muhammadabad 22, 178 Muharram 75, 93 mukhwas 102, 366 Mumbai 23, 339-340,346, 354, 348 Mundra 332, 360-361 Muni Seva Ashram 179 museum Baroda Museum and Art Gallery 167 Bharatiya Sanskriti Darshan Museum 316 Calico Museum 86 Darbar Hall Museum 257 Diu Museum 266 Fatesinh Museum 168 Folk Art Museum 98 Gandhi Smarak Sangrahlaya 96 Kalpana Mangaldas Children’s Museum 98 Kutch Museum 314 Lakhota Museum 279 LD Museum of Art and Archeology 98 NC Mehta Collection of Miniature Paintings 98

Sakkarbaug Museum 257 Sanskar Kendra & City Museum 97 Saputara Museum 139 Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel National Memorial 87 Shri Vishal Jain Museum 248 Vechaar Museum 97 Watson Museum 290music 41, 44-46, 66, 93, 102, 322 Muslims 20, 24, 34, 61 Mutwa community 324

NN C Mehta Collection 98Nadiad 205-208 nagara 88, 93Nagarsheth Haveli 266Nageshwar Mahadev 140, 286Naginavadi 95Nagoa Beach 267, 270Najubibi’s Maqbara 257Nal Sarovar 107namaste 370namaz 34Namda work 361Nana Ambaji 191Nani Rav 327nankathai 118, 123Narakasura 58Narmad Library 120Narmad 42, 118Narmada Dam 152Narmada District 113Narmada River 152, 154-156narrow-gauge railway station 175Narsinh Mehta no Choro 255Narsinh Mehta 41, 45, 249, 254National Institute of Design (NID) 41, 102National Parks(see Wildlife Sanctuaries)Nature Park 174, 226naturopathy 124, 227, 332naubat 93Nava Bazaar 170Navali 202Navavas 323, 362Navghan Kuvo 254Navi Khadki 272Navjivan Nature Cure Centre 332Navlakha Temple 287Navratri 43, 72-73Navsari 131-135Navsari District 131-136Navsari Parsi Agiari 132Nayak Baiju 45Nazarbaug Palace 170Nehru Planetarium 272Net-2-Phone 351

386386

Nilambagh Palace 245Nilgai 30-31, 235-236, 247,260, 298, 305Nirma 29Nirona 324Nizamshah Nandodji dargah 151Non-Government Organizations (NGOs) (see Getting Involved)Nyaya Mandir 158, 170

OOmkarnath Thakur 45oral traditions 41-42, 310Ottoman Turks 264overland travel 339

Ppaan 69, 366Pachchham 47, 322-324packing checklist 337-338padyatris 235painting 46-47, 91, 98, 167-168, 176, 249, 359, 361-362Pakistan 24-25, 339Palanpur Diamond Market 231Palanpur 228-232Palitana 35, 70, 247paliyas 304Pampa Lake 144Panchajan 60Panchajanya 60Panchamal District 177-178Panchasara ParshvanathJain Derasar 217Pandit Jasraj 45Pandurimata 153Panera Dungar 126Pannalal Patel 42Parshvanath 188, 191,203, 217, 231Parsi community 128, 132Parsis 37, 115, 128-129, 132, 264, 368Parvati 149, 286Paryushan 35passport 339-340, 348, 351-352Pataleshwar Mandir 229Patan District 214-221 Patan 215-219, 361-363patchwork 361Pateti 37Patidar community 201, 205Patola 217-219, 290, 361Pavagadh 177-178PCO 350Pethapur 362petrochemicals 27-29pharmaceutical 27-29photography 353Pill Garden 243PIO card 340

Pir Miskinsha Urs 262Pirotan Island 287-288Pithora painting 176Pittal Bazaar 248Polo Forest 192pols 40, 170, 217, 231population 19Porbandar District 58-59, 271-276Porbandar 55, 58-59, 271-275, 368 ports 28Portuguese 22-23, 129-130, 264-265Poshina 69, 191, 359Positra 288post office (see general post office)pottery 20, 350, 359Pragmahal Palace 314Pramod Villa 149Pranami sect 279Prasanben Narandas Ramji Society (PNR) 250Pratap Vilas Palace 170Pratappur 303Premananda 42private buses 347prohibition 352Prophet Muhammad 34, 168Puanreshwar Temple 325puja 33Puranas 33Purna Wildlife Sanctuary 145Pushtimarg 33, 45, 286

QQasab 318, 334quilting 361Qutbuddin Hajira 168

RRa’ Khengar Vav 261Raas 43, 48, 73, 60Rabari community 49rabies 342-343Rabindranath Tagore 87radio 46Raichand Deepchand Library 155rain water harvesting 40, 281, 326Raioli 210Raj Mahal 302, 304Raja Ravi Varma 47Rajkot District 289-297Rajkot 48, 55, 289-294, 346, 363Rajkumar College 291Rajpipla 69, 146-151Rajwant Palace 148-150rakhals 312, 325Rama 62, 144Ramayana 33Ramkund 314Rampura 303Ramsang Malam 313

Ramzan 34Ranakdevi Temple 302Ranchhodbhai Udayram 43Ranchhodlal Chhotalal 24Ranchhodrai Temple 209rangoli 74Rani no Hajiro (Queen’s Tomb) 93Rani Rupvati’s (Roopmati’s) Mosque 91Rani Sipri (Sabrai) Mosque 94Ranjitsinhji 277Ranki Vav 216-217Ranns of Kachchh 30, 311Rao Lakhpat’s Chattardi 314Rashtriya School 290Rataba Vav 303Ratan Bai Masjid 281Ratanmahal Sanctuary 185Rath Yatra 71Rathwa community 49, 176Ravechi Fair 71Ravishankar Art Gallery 47, 99Ravivari Market 78, 95Rayan 332Reliance 27, 29religion 32-37responsible tourism 4Revivalist Movement 47rickshaw 347right hand 355roadside shrines 33rock-cut caves 38, 297Roda 194Rogan 324, 362Ropeway 140Rowlatt Act 53Rudra Mahalaya 220Rudramata 321Rudrani Temple 321Rukmini 58-59, 276, 286Ruthi Rani no Mahal 188

SSAATH 328Sabarkantha District 186-194Sabarmati Ashram 54Sadguru Water andDevelopment Foundation 185safaris 194, 233-234,305, 319, 325safety 57, 351, 353Sahasralinga Talav 217Sahjeevan 334Sahyadri 19, 129, 137Saindhavas 20Saint Kabir 160, 321Sakkarbaug Zoo and Museum 257Salt March 54-55, 96, 135-136, 197 salwar kameez 353samadhi 36, 160

387387

Samanvay Resource Center 185Sambar 31, 260Samudradev 57Sanghavi Farm 130Sanjan 129Sankheda Ware 175, 362Sanskar Kendra 41, 47, 97Sanskruti Kunj 68Santaram Mandir 206sapota 27, 131, 369Saptak music festival 66Saputara Museum 139Saputara 69, 137-142sarangi 42Sarasvati River 215, 217Sarasvatichandra 42, 205Sardar Patel University 195, 199Sardar Patel 53, 87, 124,195, 197, 201-202 Sardar Sarovar Project 87, 152Sardar Vallabhbhai PatelNational Memorial 87Sarkhej 22, 39, 106sarovar 39Sartanji no Choro 273Sartanpur 249Sarus Crane 31-32, 107, 226sarva dharma 32Sarvodaya Kendra 236Sasan Gir 260sati 311, 235, 302, 304satya 35Satyagraha Ashram 24satyagraha 52, 123-124, 205Saurashtra 48-49, 57, 118,237-306, 360-361, 366 Sayajibaug 167Sayajirao 165, 167Sayyed Pir no Kubo 326School of Architecture and Planning (CEPT) 97Science City 108secular architecture 39Seva Rural 160SEWA 101, 110Shabari Dham 144Shah Alam Roza 96Shah Alam Urs Fair 75Shah Jahan 23, 87, 181Shahi Roza 231Shaivism 20, 33Shaking Minarets 88Shakti peethas 235Shakti 177, 235, 303Shaktism 33-34Shamlaji 74, 192Shankha Tirtha 60Shanku’s Nature Health Centre 227Shantigram Nirman Mandal 160Shantinath 188, 281

Sharadbagh Palace 316share mania 27shared jeeps 347shared rickshaws 347Sher Khan 22Shetrunjaya Hill 35, 247Shia 34, 45, 75Shihor 248, 364shikhara 38, 220ship breaking 28, 250shipbuilding 329Shish Mahal 302Shiva 34, 68, 149, 152, 159,160, 175, 220, 278, 327Shoolpaneshwar Temple 152Shoolpaneshwar Sanctuary 153shopping 350Shree Bidada Sarvodaya Trust 334Shreenathji 34Shreyas Folk Art Museum and Performing Arts Museum 98Shri Ramakrishna Mission 291Shri Vishal Jain Museum 248Shrimad Rajchandra 188Shroff Bazaar 314, 318Shroff Foundation 179Shrujan Trust 334Shuklatirth 159shuttles 347Shvetambar 35, 46Siddha Hema Shabdanushasan 41Siddhartha Gautama 36Siddhpur 220Siddhraj Jaysinh 229, 302, 306Siddi Bashir Mosque 88Siddi community 94, 262Siddi Dhamal 44Siddi Sayid Mosque 94Sikhism 35-36Silver Work 363Sindh 19, 22, 25, 360, 363, 365Sir James Fergusson 314Sisodia Rajputs 129sleeper bus 347Sloth bear 31, 178, 185, 236Sojali 210Solanki architecture 38-39, 225, 227, 235, 287, 306Solanki 20, 42, 215, 217, 302, 370Solarium 279Somnath 32, 263Sompura community 304, 364squat toilet 344Sri Aurobindo Niwas 168St Paul’s Church 266St Thomas Church 266, 269state government offices 349State Transport (ST) buses 347STD 350stepwell (see vav)

stone carving 304, 364street food 341, 368Sudamapuri Temple 59, 272Sufism 34Sujni 157Sumrasar 322Sun Temple 38, 46, 66, 193, 262-263Sundaram 42Sunni 34Sunrise Point 140Surat Castle 117Surat District 115-124Surat 115-123, 361Surendranagar District 298-306Surendranagar 44, 48, 71, 298-301Sursagar Lake 170Suryakund 225swadeshi 24, 53, 56Swami Dayanand 297Swami Sahajanand 34Swaminarayan Temple 88, 100, 109,155, 280, 297, 303, 314Swaminarayan 32, 34, 202-203swaraj 24

Ttabla 102 Takhatsinhji 241 Takhteshwar Temple 243 Talaja 249 Talala 262 talav 40 Chandrisar Talav 303 Khan Talav 108 Sahasralinga 217Tambekar Wada 167 Tandava 68 tanka 40 Tankara 297 Tankshala 90 Tara Mandir 272 Taranga 227 Tarnetar Fair 71, 304 Tarnetar 304 telecommunications 350 temple architecture 38 temple 355 Akshardam 109 Ambaji 235 Bala Hanuman 281 Bavka 184 Bhavnath 254 Bohter Yaksh 325 Chotila 303 Dakor 209 Dwarkadeesh 285 EME 168 Jalaram 297 Kalo Dungar 324

388388

Khedbrahma 191 Kotay 321 Koteshwar 327 Modhera 225 Nageshwar Mahadev 286 Narayan Sarovar 327 Navlakha 287 Pavagadh 171 Santaram 206 Shamlaji 192 Somnath 263 Sudamapuri 272 Swaminarayan Kalupur 88 Swaminarayan Vadtal 203terracotta horses 191-192, 234terracotta 20, 108, 359textile craft 360-362Textile Markets 120textile mills 24, 27, 29, 52textile 22, 28, 84, 86, 297, 360-362Thadvi community 153thali 365Than Monastery 325The Muslim League 24theater 42-43Thol Lake Sanctuary 226tipping 345-346tirthankar 35Tirupati Natural Park 226Tithal 128toilets 344-345 Tomb of Daria Khan 87 Tombs of the Babi Kings 255 toran 38 Kapadvanj 210 Siddhpur 220 Vadnagar 226 Vijaynagar 193Torrent 29 Tourism 28 train travel 347-348 trekking 145, 153, 185,235-236, 324-325 tribal art 47 tribal craft 363 Tribhuvandas Foundation 204 Triveni Ghat 62Tropic of Cancer 19, 310Tughlaq Dynasty 22tukkal 66Turks 22

UUbhrat 135Udwada 37, 128Umashankar Joshi 42untouchability 36, 56Uparkot 38, 253-254Uttarayan 66

VVadhvana Wetland 175Vadia Palace 149Vadnagar 226-227Vadodara District 165-179Vadodara 23, 46-49, 165-173, 354Vadtal 202-203Vaghari community 90, 360Vaishnavism 33Valabhi 20Valanda Kothi 155Vallabh Vidyanagar (V V Nagar) 199Vallabhacharya 34, 286Valsad District 125-130Valsad 28, 48, 125-127, 354 Vankar Shyamji Vishram 320Vansda National Park 143-144Vanthali 261-262Vasai Jain Tirth 333Vasco de Gama 332 Vaso 208, 362 Vautha Fair 75, 108 Vautha 75, 108 vav 39 Adalaj 109 Adi Kadi Vav 253 Amrutvarshini Vav 96 Battris Kotha ni Vav 209 Dada Hari ni Vav 88 Minal Vav 298 Mithi Vav 229 Pancham Mehta ni Vav 228 Ra’ Khengar Vav 261 Ranki Vav 216 Rataba Vav 303 Vikia Vav 287Vechaar Museum 97 vegan 369 vegetarianism 365 Velavadar National Park 246 Veraval 263 Vijay Vilas Palace 329 Vijaynagar 192-193 Vipassana 332 Vir Narmad Sarasvati Mandir 118 Viramgam 39, 108 Virampur 234 virdas 324 Virpur 297 visa extension 339 visa 339-340 Vishala Village 104Vishnu 33, 62Vishvakarma 57, 364Vithalnathji 34Vivekanad Research andTraining Institute (VRTI) 334Vivekanand Gramodyog Society (VGS) 334

V-One Society 179

WWadhvan 301-303Waghai 143Wagheshvari Temple 303wall paintings 47, 176Walled City 86, 88, 92, 94-95Wankaner 295water purification 341water sanitation 179water sports 264, 267Watson Museum 290 weaving 320 Western Ghats 137 Western Union 345 wetland 30 White Revolution 25, 27, 197 Wi-Fi 100, 351 Wild Ass Sanctuary 304-305 Wildlife Sanctuaries Balaram-Ambaji Sanctuary 235 Barda Hills Sanctuary 275 Gir National Park and Sanctuary 260 Jambughoda Sanctuary 178 Jessore Sanctuary 236 Khijadia Bird Sanctuary 284 Marine National Park and Sanctuary 287 Nal Sarovar Sanctuary 107 Purna Wildlife Sanctuary 145 Ratanmahal Sanctuary 185 Shoolpaneshwar Sanctuary 153 Thol Sanctuary 226 Vansda National Park and Sanctuary 143-144 Velavadar National Park and Sanctuary 246 Wild Ass Sanctuary 305Willingdon Crescent 281 Willingdon Dam 255 Wilson Hill 129 women’s health 343 woodwork 175, 208, 362 World War II 24 worms 343

YYadav 57, 61, 62 yaksh 325

ZZainabad 305Zaverchand Meghani 42Zoroastrianism 37Zydus Cadila 29

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BOXED TEXTGujarati Diaspora 26Economy Quick Facts 26Share Mania 27The Nirma Story 29Ranns of Kachchh 30Who’s Who (wildlife) 30-31More On Hinduism 33The Jain Dilemma 35Judaism 37Water Structures 39Music on the Airwaves 46Folk Art 47Your Freedom Trail 55Bhagavad Gita 61Ten Reincarnations of Vishnu 62The Weatlth of Ahmedabad 88The Heritage Walk 90Naubat 93Baba Maneknath 93Seva Café: Living is Giving 104Indicorps: Service for the Soul 110Nankathai 118Diamonds in Surat 120The Tata Story 132Forest Guest Houses 142The Narmada Controversy 152Colonial Marketplaces 170Pithora Painting 176Brahma 191The Amul Story 197The Legend of Dakor 209Dawoodi Bohras of Gujarat 221The Garasia Community 234Shakti Peethas 235Alang 250The Maldhari Community 260The Siddi Community 262Underworld of Porbandar 272Mangroves 288Paliyas 304Navagraha (Nine Planets) 306Crazy Weed 321Bhunga 323Traditional Water Systems 324Water Purification 341Diarrhea 342Preventing Mosquito Bites 342Replenish your Body’s Water Loss 344Drug Names 344The Case For Vegetarianism 365Gujarati Flat Breads 366At Your Fingertips 383

MAP INDEXRegional MapsAhmedabad 82Southern Gujarat 114Eastern Gujarat 164

Northern Gujarat 215Saurashtra 240Kachchh 310

City MapsAhmedabad City 89Ahmedabad Walled City 91Surat 119Valsad 126Navsari 133Saputara 139Rajpipla 148Baruch 156Vadodra 169Dahod 182Idar 189Anand 198Nadiad 207Patan 218Mahesana 223Palanpur 230Bhavnagar 244Junagadh 256Porbandar 273Jamnagar 280Rajkot 292Surendranagar 300Bhuj 315Mandvi 330Diu Town Map 268

District Road MapsAhmedabad 107Surat 124Valsad 128Navsari 135The Dangs 142Narmada 151Baruch 159Vadodra 174Dahod 183Sabarkantha 190Anand 201Kheda 208Patan 220Mahesana 225Banaskantha 233Bhavnagar 246Junagadh 259Porbandar 275Jamnagar 284Rajkot 295Surendranagar 302Kachchh 320

Other MapsIndia Map iiiGujarat Map iv-vUltimate Gujarat Experience Map 16The Salt March 54In the Footsteps of Gandhiji 55Krishna in Gujarat 57

390390

USER GUIDEIn this book, the state is divided by its districts, which are then clustered together based on their geographic location. Under each district, the book highlights a major city (usually the district headquarters) as the main hub. These cities offer access to accommodation, restaurants, Internet, and a good transportation network. We have listed all other destinations within each district as excursions from the major city. In a few places where it makes sense, we have listed an entire district as the excursion itself.

At a Glance is a brief introduction to the region. The regional section is then broken down into districts. Each district section begins with an introduction and brief history of both the district and the major city highlighted.

Places of Interest are compiled under each major city section to help you build an itinerary according to your interests. They include descriptions of the destination along with a historical background when appropriate and contact information when necessary.

Nuts & Bolts (Tourist Information, In & Out, Getting Around, Money, Communication, Medical, Photography, Markets, Bookstores, Entertainment, Activities, Accommodation, Food & Drink) are listed for each city where the information is available. Semicolons are used to seperate different addresses for the same chain.

Excursions highlight the other interesting destinations within the district, which are accessible from the main city. Accommodation and restaurants are listed below a few of the excursion destinations where a longer halt is a good option. Approximate distances to the excursion site from the main city are given for most places.

Getting Involved is the final section of each district that highlights non-profit organizations throughout the region where you can volunteer. Please contact them ahead of time if you plan on visiting or volunteering your time.

MapsRegional maps highlight a cluster ofdistricts within a region. The city map is designed to help younavigate each main city.The road map helps illustrate howdifferent places within a district are connected.

Abbreviations used in this bookBldg Buildingc. CenturyCmplx ComplexFlr FloorKm KilometerNr Near Nxt NextOpp Opposite Stn Station

AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

Country Code +91

Approximate Exchange Rates 1 USD = Rs. 451 GBP = Rs. 851 EUR = Rs. 57

Emergency Contact NumbersPolice 100Fire 101Ambulance 102

TimeGMT+ 5.5 hours India does not have daylight savings time. India is 5.5 hrs ahead of London, 10.5 hrs ahead of New York, 11.5 hrs ahead of Houston, 13.5 hrs ahead of LA, and 4.5 hrs behind Sydney.

391391

READER FEEDBACK

This is just the beginning! We invite and encourage you to send in your own discoveries as you travel through Gujarat so that we can improve this book and share new experiences. Please send your anecdotes, travel hints, advice and feedback to gujarat@indiaguide.in.

To purchase India Guide Gujarat visit www.indiaguide.in

THE INDIA GUIDEGUJARAT TEAM

Chief EditorAnjali Desai

Assistant EditorsVivek KhadpekarAmishal Modi

Map EditorPrashant Pednekar

Designer Jayesh PatelTiffany TreweekAnirban Dutta Gupta

Map DesignerMahesh Panchal

ConsultantKirti Thaker

Lead PhotographersVivek DesaiMaria Durana

volume1 ounce = 28 grams1 gram = 0.036 ounces1 liter = 1.82 US pints1 US pint = 0.55 liters1 liter = 1.76 Imperial pints1 Imperial pint = 0.568 liters1 liter = 1.05 US quart1 US quart = 0.95 liters1 liter = 0.88 Imperial quarts1 Imperial quart = 1.137 liters1 liter = 0.26 US gallons1 US gallon = 3.79 liters1 liter = 0.22 Imperial gallons1 Imperial gallon = 4.55 liters

Weights1 gram = 0.04 ounces1 ounce = 28.35 grams1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds1 pound = 0.45 kilograms1 stone = 6.35 kilograms1 British ton = 1016 kilograms1 US ton = 907 kilograms

lengths & area1 centimeter = 0.39 inches1 inch = 2.54 centimeters1 meter = 3.28 feet1 foot = 0.305 meters1 kilometer = 0.62 miles1 mile = 1.61 kilometers1 yard = 0.91 meters1 meter = 1.09 yards1 hectare = 2.47 acres1 acre = 0.40 hectares

fahrenheit-centigrade: subtract 32 and divide by 1.8centigrade-fahrenheit: multiply by 1.8 and add 32

0 °C = 32 °F20 °C = 68 °F37 °C = 98.6 °F40 °C = 104 °F

One lakh equals 100,000 (one hundred thousand) and is written in India as 1,00,000.

One crore equals 10,000,000 (ten million) and is written in India as 1,00,00,000.

CONVERSIONS

CITY MAPS

National Highway

State Highway

Road

Railway

Bridge

Main Bus Station

Railway Station

Airport

General Post Office

Main Police Station

Accommodation

Restaurant

Heritage Site / Monument

Museum

Palace

Point of Interest

Hindu Temple

Mosque

Jain Temple

Fire Temple

Church

Gurudwara

Ashram

Non-profit Organization

Internet/Courier/Shop/

Institution/Photo Lab/

Library/Cinema/Market

Money

Hospital

Fruit / Vegetable Market

Government Building

Theatre

Gardens / Parks

River / Lake

International Border

State Border

District Border

Fort Wall

ROAD MAPS

City / Town / Village

District Headquarters

State Capital

National Park

Wild Life Sanctuary

National Highway

State Highway

Road

MAP LEGEND

8

8

India Guide GujaratFirst International Edition Copyright © India Guide Publications, 2007

Published by India Guide Publicationsinfo@indiaguide.inwww.indiaguide.in

Publisher’s Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Desai, Anjali H.India Guide Gujarat / Anjali H. Desai, editor ; Vivek Khadpekar,assistant editor p. cm. ISBN 0-9789517-0-0 ISBN-13 978-0-9789517-0-2 1. Gujarat (India)—Description and travel. 2. Gujarat (India)—Guidebooks. 3. Gujarat (India)—History. 4. Gujarat (India)—Social life and customs. 5. Tourism—Developing countries. 6. India—Description and travel. I. Khadpekar, Vivek. II. Title.

DS485.G83 D47 2007954.7520--dc22

LCCN 2006933887CIP

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without the written permission of India Guide Publications.

Every effort has been made by the India Guide team to ensure that all information in this book is accurate. The authors and publishers will not accept responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience caused.

All rights reserved. All content in this book is based on the complete discretion of India Guide. India Guide does not accept advertisements or payment in exchange for listing or endorsing any place or business. India Guide researchers and writers do not accept discounts or payment for positive coverage.

Cover Images: Vivek Desai, Maria Durana, Anjali DesaiTitle Page Image: Courtesy of Gandhi Smarak Sangrahalaya

Printed at Pragati Offset Pvt. Ltd., India • www.pragati.com

USD $19.99 CAD $22.99 GBP £10.99

www.indiaguide.in

Gu

jar

at

Gujarat

Savor the history and romance, colors and textures, rhythms and dances of a land where time has never stood still.

From the rocky heights of the Sahyadri Mountains across to the salt flats of the Desert of Kachchh, Gujarat has something for everyone. Wander through remains of ancient Indus Valley civilizations; venture to meet the lions of Gir Forest; soak in the legacy of Mahatma Gandhi; dance on the streets for nine nights of Navratri. Enjoy an unparalleled ethos of hospitality. Experience vibrant crafts, exquisite architecture, rich wildlife reserves, colorful festivals and eclectic traditions. Join five millennia of seafarers, merchants and settlers from around the globe and come discover Gujarat.

five thousand years of civilization

india Guide offers:

• An inside perspective on the region • Information on uncharted areas • More than 300 color maps and images• Local insight into customs and lifestyles • Opportunities to volunteer in the local community

india Guide believes in responsible travel.

Gujarat