India by Train. By Jayant Doshi

(On a recent visit to India I had two different but interesting train journeys. First was to Lucknow and the second was the famous

Palace on Wheels in Rajasthan. Many members have requested me to write about these, and I am presenting my report

herewith. )

To Lucknow with Love

It was a wedding invitation that I could not resist because this type of wedding nowadays would be rare.

It had a feel of nostalgia and I knew that this type of invitation comes once in a lifetime, and I had to go.

The wedding party was to travel by train from Mumbai to Lucknow , a distance of 900 miles to be

covered by train in 27 hours of travelling. The whole trip was to be over 5 days including 3 days stay in

Lucknow, the cultural capital of India.

It is said that “match is made in heaven”, but in this case the match was arranged by internet , and I

mean it literally . The boy, a Gujarati from Mumbai,

was studying in USA . The girl, from an educated

family from the Hindi belt area of India was in

Lucknow. Both met on the internet and became

friends. For nine months they communicated via

internet, exchanged pictures and perhaps talked on

the phone but never met. They became very close

and decided to become life partners. The boy flew to

Mumbai and told his parents, who reluctantly agreed

to meet the girl. The girl , for the very first time,

met them at the Lucknow station without her parents

knowing about it . The boy liked the girl even more,

the parents were happy and so they went to see the

girl’s parents who reluctantly, but then happily

agreed to the wedding. To emphasise this internet

connection, the wedding card was also designed like a floppy disc.

There were 162 members in the wedding party, and the ages ranged from 5 to 80 . The logistics of

managing such a large group was incredible, and overall it was a mammoth task. On average each

passenger had 3 bags. Due to the winter, and fear of much colder weather up north, passengers carried

blankets for the trip, which added to the total luggage carried. When the platform is packed with

people, and when the train stops for a very limited time, it was a great challenge to put all the bags and

the passengers onto the train in a limited time. Even bigger task was to make sure each passenger knew

which compartment, and which seat they would be

occupying, and then ensuring that each one got

their bags where they were sitting. Also each

passenger had to be informed in which hotel and

which room they will be staying while in Lucknow,

and it had to be tied up with the baggage of each

passenger. Every detail was worked out and put on

the computer and all the organising members were

carrying files with all the details. Each passenger

was given a card with name, seat number on the

train, and the hotel room number, and each card

had a colour ribbon to tie it on the bag, and the

colour also indicated the hotel where the bag was

going.

Arrangements were made to cook hot meals in the train kitchen, but all the provisions had to be carried

with the party. Also provision was made for snacks and fruits so that everyone was well fed and looked

after over the long journey. Even minute details were not overlooked. A hand towel was put near each

sink, and a bucket put in each toilet. A doctor and a nurse were also included in the party, and the

doctor was kept pretty busy over the five days trip. In short, every minute detail of the trip, and the

comfort of the passengers was thought of and catered for. Nothing was left out or no mistakes were

discernible for anyone to criticise.

We reached the Chhtrapati Shivaji Station in Mumbai at 7.00 in the morning when, as is normal in

Mumbai, the station was buzzing with thousands of people. The station name, which is a mouthful for

anyone to repeat, is still known by its old name of Victoria Terminus, or VT in short. We were all

directed to stand on the platform at a point where it was assumed our compartment would stop. When

the train came, and panic set in with thousands rushing to get a space, we were informed that while two

compartments would be where we were standing, one would be at the other end. Moving through those

crowds, and keeping one’s baggage also, is a very difficult task. After that early commotion and

confusion, and some haggling and pulling strings with the staff at the station, it was then arranged that

all the three compartments would be near to each other. One compartment was fully reserved for our

group, while the rest of the group were scattered

in the other two compartments.

After all that commotion, that running around and

frayed tempers, everyone was safely on board and

settled down in no time. Soon, groups were

formed, and every one occupied themselves in

some sort of activity. While 27 hours seems a long

time, surprisingly the time just flew. Snacks,

fruits and food kept flowing, and that in turn

meant that time also kept flowing. Sleeping on

the train is not easy. The changing speeds, the

rollicking on the uneven rails, stopping and

slowing of the train, the buzzing and shouting at

passing stations hardly is conducive to sound sleep. At the same time, the rocking and the sort of musical

notes formed by the rails are pleasant to the ear. To some, this musical movement of the trains has its

own charm and lulls one to sleep as a baby is rocked to sleep in its cradle.

We reached Lucknow at about 11.00 in the

morning and we all were transported to the main

guest house which was to be our base for the

next three days. Each member of the wedding

party, or “barati” in Hindi, was welcomed with

garlands and a red spot on the forehead. After

tea and light snacks, all went to their respective

guest house and room, where the baggage was

already there, had shower and came back for

lunch. After an afternoon nap, everyone

gathered in the hall for what was to be an

entertaining evening of some artistic

presentations. For the next three days, we were

pampered and lavished with variety of delicious meals.

The bride family perform “mehndi” ceremony which involved some singing from the mother and aunts of

the bride. The bride herself gave some exquisite dance performances. Later the groom’s family members

presented a mixture of singing, jokes and dancing performances by various members of the family. The

whole programme lasted for over 5 hours and everyone thoroughly enjoyed the presentation.

Next day, a sightseeing tour of Lucknow was arranged and everyone enjoyed the sigtseeing. Lucknow ,

like most cities in India, have some wonderful historical buildings and monuments. The Mogul and Islamic

influence is evident in its buildings. Lucknow, the city of Nawabs , the city of Urdu the sweet and poetic

language and city of Islamic architecture at its best. The language of the city is so sweet and polite that

it is said that even a quarrel involving abusive language is conducted in a polite language. The maze in

one of the palaces was amazing and an architectural wonder. There are no supporting pillars in the huge

palace, and at the same time the ceiling supports the whole maze with thick walls on top of the ceiling.

At five in the evening the “barat” or the wedding party left for the reception followed by wedding.

According to their customs, wedding takes place as late as possible at night, and is traditionally held in

the home of the bride. As the space at home is normally limited, the very immediate family members

normally stay for the wedding. It was so cold that everyone was wrapped in blankets and quilts while

watching the wedding ceremony.

Next day the bride is collected from her home

by five members of the groom’s family. After

lunch, preparations were made to depart for

homeward journey. There were some farewell

and thank you speeches from both sides, and

after all the baggage had been loaded on truck

we reached the station by five in the evening.

Unloading the trucks, and separating the

luggage was a huge task, and ensuring that each

passenger got their bags was even more

daunting. But with joint efforts of several

volunteers it was accomplished successfully in

time. The return journey passed by as smoothly

and quickly as the out bound journey.

This was a wonderful journey. People interacted with people they had just met. Friendships were made,

and old acquaintances were renewed or refreshed. For five days, everyone had forgotten the world. For

five days, we had moved from a fast moving hectic life to a slow leisurely trip that relaxed and gave

great pleasure.

A Palace on Wheels

We arrived at the Delhi Cantonment station at

4.00 on a Wednesday afternoon. Many of the

passengers were there and all the baggage was

lying around. As is usual to see in India, there

was lot of confusion and chaos in the small

waiting room. There were two men playing flute

and drums. But soon, we were led onto the

platform leading to the train. Two girls , clad in

traditional colourful saris , put red spot on our

foreheads and a fresh flower garland around our

necks. We were led to the trains by our

attendants, who were to be at our service for

the next week.

The train was long stretching from one end to the other end of the long platform. All the carriages were

inter-connected so it was possible to walk from one end to the other. It was painted in ivory colour, with

coats of arms or similar design to imply its royal connection. The train had 21 carriages. Besides the

engine, the store room , there were 13 carriages for the passengers, one carriage was converted into two

kitchens, there were two carriages converted into dining rooms, one carriage was converted into a bar

saloon and a general lounge. Each passenger carriage had four cabins with two beds. The beds were

wider than normal train beds and quite comfortable. Some cabins had an extra bunk bed in case of three

passengers were sharing. There was a small cupboard to keep clothes, and a mirror and side table.

Adjoining the cabin was a toilet, a sink and a shower with hot water provided all hours. Like a hotel, all

the toiletries were provided. The upholstery, consisting of the bed spread, pillow covers and the

curtains, in the cabin was rich looking. In the same carriage there was a small lounge area where

breakfast was served, and also where the passengers of that carriage could meet and relax and watch

the television whenever reception was possible. On the other end of the carriage there was double bunk

bed for the attendants. There was also a refrigerator, and heating equipment to make tea and breakfast.

We left Delhi at 6.00 p.m. After a while the train stopped to let the passengers eat their dinner without

much rollicking and movement. Five course dinner is served with a wide choice of items which could be

termed as a mixture of Indian and western

cuisine, and vegetarian and non-vegetarian

mixture in its variety. We soon found that any

special request was immediately attended to

and implemented. So we started getting lassi

and had khichadi also. A request for more spicy

curries was also complied with . The morning

breakfast is served either in the cabin or in the

carriage lounge. Besides tea and coffee,

breakfast included cereals, toast, puris,

omlette and parathas . We were woken up

before seven on most days as we were expected

to leave for sightseeing by eight.

As our first destination, Jaipur, is a short distance from Delhi, the train stayed stationary for most of the

night, allowing us to have peaceful sleep. We were welcomed to Jaipur, the pink city of India, by

colourfully decorated elephants, muscians on shehnai and dholaks, and pretty girls with garlands. There

were three air-conditioned coaches to take the eighty or so passengers on a sightseeing tour of the city.

Each coach had a professional guide who gave a historical background to the various sites. True to its

reputation, the city is built entirely in pink stone, and buildings which are not in pink stone are painted

pink. After a photo session outside the Wind

Palace, we stopped at Amer Palace with its

beautiful marble carvings, wall paintings and a

hall totally fitted with small mirrors. The mirrors

were a way of saving on lighting. One candle

would reflect in thousands of those tiny mirrors

and give light that many fold. The palace also had

intricate water cooling system which would puzzle

any modern engineer. The palace had huge

gardens, and in one compound there were

quarters for 12 wives of the king. The planning

was such that the King could visit any of the

queens, without any one else knowing about it

even though all the twelve quarters were within

one compound only.

We had lunch at Rambagh Palace Hotel, with beautiful architecture and artistically laid gardens. We

visited Janatar Mantar in the afternoon. This is a garden with all types of astronomical structures which

were originally built in metal but were later changed to marble and stone. Built in 1728, the sundial still

is accurate to 20 seconds which is a remarkable piece of architecture. We visited a museum in a palace,

part of which is still occupied by the former king who owns the palace. The museum has clothes from the

past kings and their servants, and include clothes of a king who believed in eating and living , was 7 ft

tall and weighed 500 pounds. As is usual on such tours, the sightseeing ended with a visit to a carpet

factory where we were shown the making of a carpet which involved over twenty operations and took

over 6 months to make one carpet.

As our next destination was over a long distance, the train left Jaipur by 5.00 p.m. to go to Jaiselmer,

the golden city of India. Jaiselmer, on the very

prosperous silk route, and now a skeleton of its

former glory, still has signs of its past prosperity in

its architectural heritage. With the discovery of

sea route to India by the Europeans, the silk route

lost its prosperity and with it Jaiselmer lost its

prosperity. Jaiselmer has buildings made from

yellow stone, hence its fame as golden city, and is

famous for its very intricate and minute carvings

on the buildings. We walked through the town,

admiring its havelis with its architecture and

intricate carvings on the walls and railings. We

walked around the fort, which is claimed to be the

only fort with a population living to this day. We

went back to the train for our lunch, and as we had some free time, we organised a taxi and visited some

Jain temples on the outskirts of the town. In the afternoon, we drove to the desert, which divides India

and Pakistan, and did camel riding and watched the sun set under the golden sand. We were treated to a

five star dinner at a palace hotel in its gardens, and there was a cultural show during our dinner.

Jodhpur, the blue city or the Sun city, was visited on the third day. As per its reputation, most of the

buildings were in blue. The cenotaph for the royal family, and a well maintained fort were the highlights

of this visit. We were treated to a lunch at Palace Umedrai Hotel. It was a modern impressive building

and had some beautifully laid gardens. On the fourth day we left early to visit Sawai Madhopur national

park. We were taken in open vehicles sitting 20 people in each. It was very cold that time of the morning

and we did not see much by way of wild life. We were back to the train before 11 and we had our first

day time train journey of the trip. We reached Chhitorgarh by late

afternoon. Chhitorgarh has a very impressive, well planned and

well built fort. It is 3 miles long and is the biggest fort in Asia. The

fort, which is 3 miles long and the biggest in whole of Asia, is most

impressive in its defence capabilities.

On the fifth day, we visited Udaipur, the marble city of India. As

the tracks to Udaipur have still not been converted to broad gauge,

we were taken to this beautiful city by coach. The city is beautiful

with lakes and well laid gardens, the road planning seems much

modern and the buildings look in much better state then in other

places. We were taken for lunch to the world famous Lake Palace

Hotel, built in the middle of a lake. It is a wonderful building with

a wonderful location and some eye catching scenery from its

balconies. After dinner, our train moved to our next destination at

Bharatpur , where we all went for a visit to the bird sanctuary

riding in bicycle rickshaws. The bird sanctuary is

listed by the world heritage foundation and is

preserved as such. From there, we were taken to the

palaces of Fateh Sikripur by coach. The guided tour

of the palaces and the forts was very interesting. The

large compounds, some interesting carvings and

architecture and the detailed history outlined by the

guide made the tour very interesting. We were taken

to Agra, where we were taken to the newly build

grand JayPee Palace Hotel, where President Clinton

stayed during his recent visit to India. After a

sumptous lunch, we were taken to the Taj Mahal,

one of the eight wonders of the world. We were

given plenty of time to savour the wonder and the

tranquillity of this grand monument. With all the

action taken by the government to prevent damage

by the environment, we could see a great difference

in the atmosphere compared to my last visit there

only a few years back.

(more reports on website

www.jayantdoshi.yolasite.com)