Index [rd.springer.com]978-94-011-1482-0/1.pdf · Cantharides 274 Capsicum 274 Carbomers 33...

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Index Notes 1. 'Cosmetics' as a term is not used in this index except when absolutely necessary. The reader should normally consult more specific terms e.g. deodorants. 2. Individual compounds are only indexed when a particular property, use or effect is described. 3. Apparatus, Associations, Monographs or Legislation are only listed where a specific or novel approach or definition is used. Abrasives in nail preparations 248 in toothpaste 72-3 Acetylethyl tetramethyl tetralin 713 Acid value determination 452-4 Acids, determination 456- 7 Acne 268, 350 Acnegens 351 Aerosol containers 297-300 definition 157, 683 development 300-1 dispenser definition 288 filling 296 formulation examples 301-5 history 288-90,683-5 operation 291-6 propellants 293-4 safety 291 sampling from 460-1 see also Pressurized dispensers Alcohol, see Ethanol historical derivation 673 Alkanolamldes 33, 177 Alkyl aryl sulfonates 31 Allergies 609, 717, 720-1 Alpha-olefin sulfonates 31 Alumina (hydrated) 72-3 Aluminium chloride 4,685 Aluminium chlorohydrate deodorant properties 25,518 determination 461-5 enhanced efficiency 22-3 historical aspects 685 in shaving preparations 267 types 10 Aluminium determination 462-4 Aluminium sulfate 4 Aluminium zirconium chlorohydrates as antiperspirants 4, 6 deodorant properties 25 nomenclature 11 Aluminium zirconium chlorohydrex- glycine 10 Amine oxides analysis 471-5 in shampoos 180, 181 Amino acids analysis 137-8 reactions 139-31

Transcript of Index [rd.springer.com]978-94-011-1482-0/1.pdf · Cantharides 274 Capsicum 274 Carbomers 33...

Page 1: Index [rd.springer.com]978-94-011-1482-0/1.pdf · Cantharides 274 Capsicum 274 Carbomers 33 Carnauba wax 220 Carrageenan 75 Castor oil in lipstick 216-17 in nail enamel 251-2 Cationics,

Index

Notes

1. 'Cosmetics' as a term is not used in this index except when absolutely necessary. The reader should normally consult more specific terms e.g. deodorants.

2. Individual compounds are only indexed when a particular property, use or effect is described.

3. Apparatus, Associations, Monographs or Legislation are only listed where a specific or novel approach or definition is used.

Abrasives in nail preparations 248 in toothpaste 72-3

Acetylethyl tetramethyl tetralin 713 Acid value determination 452-4 Acids, determination 456-7 Acne 268, 350 Acnegens 351 Aerosol

containers 297-300 definition 157, 683 development 300-1 dispenser definition 288 filling 296 formulation examples 301-5 history 288-90,683-5 operation 291-6 propellants 293-4 safety 291 sampling from 460-1 see also Pressurized dispensers

Alcohol, see Ethanol historical derivation 673

Alkanolamldes 33, 177 Alkyl aryl sulfonates 31

Allergies 609, 717, 720-1 Alpha-olefin sulfonates 31 Alumina (hydrated) 72-3 Aluminium chloride 4,685 Aluminium chlorohydrate

deodorant properties 25,518 determination 461-5 enhanced efficiency 22-3 historical aspects 685 in shaving preparations 267 types 10

Aluminium determination 462-4 Aluminium sulfate 4 Aluminium zirconium chlorohydrates

as antiperspirants 4, 6 deodorant properties 25 nomenclature 11

Aluminium zirconium chlorohydrex­glycine 10

Amine oxides analysis 471-5 in shampoos 180, 181

Amino acids analysis 137-8 reactions 139-31

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in silk powder 113-14 see also Keratin

p-Aminobenzoic acid and derivatives 417-18

Aminonitroanisoles 200 Aminonitrophenols 200 Ammonia 274 Ammonium thioglycollate

analysis 468-9 hair straightening 139 skin irritation 97 see also Permanent waving

preparations Amodimethicones 184, 190 Amphoterics, see Surfactants Analytical methods 443 Anionics, see Surfactants Anthranilates 418 Anti-dandruff preparations, see Hair

lotions; Hair shampoos Antiperspirants

active ingredients 10-12 aerosols 20-2 axillary odour 5, 517 definition 5 demographic choice 8, 9 effectiveness studies 6-7 evaluation and testing 460-5, 523-9 forms 12, 13-18 formulations 9, 12-23,303-4 fragrance 23 history 3-4, 685-6 marketing 8-9 squeeze sprays and pumps 13, 19-20 see also Aluminium chlorohydrate;

Deodorants; Sweat glands Apocrine sweat glands 5,342,517,520 Arabia and cosmetics and perfumes

654-7 Aromatherapy 731-3 ARRID cream 4 ATP bioluminescence 604 Axillary odour, see Antiperspirants

Bacteria in axillary odour 517 challenge tests 587-91

Index 741

colony count method 597, 599-600 in cosmetics 572-5 techniques 580 types and classification 576-7

Baldness 273 Barrier creams 387-90 Bases determination 456-7 Bath cubes and powders 50,54-5 Bath essences 39 Bathochromic shift 423 Bath oils

definition 39 dispersible 43-4 floating 41 formulations 40-5 hydrophilic 59 hydrophilic-lipophilic balance 41 preparation 39-40 solube 44-5 see also Body shampoos; Bubble

bath products; Shower products Bath salts

formulations and ingredients 51-3 fragrance 53 preparation 53 see also Spa water

Bay Rum 273-4 Bay salt see Sodium chloride Behavioural conditioning 732 Bentonite 103 Benzalkonium chlorides 24,332 Benzophenones 418-19 Betaines 32, 178 Bismuth oxychloride 229,253 Blushers see Rouge Body gels 61 Body lotions 381-5 Body scrubs 106 Body shampoos 45-50,354 Body silks 59-60 Borax see Sodium borate Boric acid 24 Brilliantines 279 Bromates determination 469-70 Bromo acids see Eosin acids Bubble bath products

analysis 471-7

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742 Index

definition 28 foam stabilizers 32-3, 34-5 foaming agents 28-9 formulations 35-8,354 fragrance 34 legislation 34 pearly 33-4 powdered 37-8 product testing 38-9 surfactants 29-32, 34 thickeners 32-4 see also Bath oils; Body shampoos;

Shower products Calamine 1-3 Calcium carbonate 58, 73, 112 Calcium pyrophosphate 73 Calcium sulfide 96 Camphor derivatives 418 Candelilla wax 221 Cantharides 274 Capsicum 274 Carbomers 33 Carnauba wax 220 Carrageenan 75 Castor oil

in lipstick 216-17 in nail enamel 251-2

Cationics, see Surfactants Caustic lye hair straighteners 165-7 Caustic potash, see Potassium

hydroxide Cellulose ethers 33 Ceresine 219 Cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide

150 Chemistry, historical aspects 667, 671,

676-7 China, early cosmetic use 656-8 Chlorhexidine 83 Chloride determination 464-5 Chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) 293 Cinnamates 418, 610 Coal tar colours 590 Cocamide MEA 33 Cocodiethanolamide 33 Cohesograph 503 Comedogenicity 350-1

Conditioners, see Hair conditioners Consumer Protection Regulations 1984

274 Corn starch 192 Cosmetic pencils 318 Cosmetic products

acceleration tests 625 adverse experience reports 559, 621 analytical methods 633 carcinogenicity 611 consumer complaints 618-19 definition 64, 639 historical medical aspects 654-6,

663-4 industrial history 672-4, 678, 680 laboratory control 595-601 legislation 64, 114,562,557-61,

566-70,689 microbial limits 583, 585 microbial stability 572-5 neurotoxicity 611 prehistoric use 639-40 preservative efficacy 587, 602-3, 633 preservatives 584-7 safety evaluation 607 - 8 shelf life 620-3 systemic effects 611-12 test conditions 625-7 theatrical 661 see also countries; specific cosmetics

Cosmetic Products (Safety) Regulations 1989 215-16, 230, 620

Cuticle, see Nails Cyclomethicone 423

Dandruff definition 512 and microorganisms 512-13 and sebum 513 see also Hair lotions; Hair shampoos

Dean and Stark distillation 447-8 Defoaming 31, 39 Dentifrice see Toothpastes Deodorants

bacteriocidal agents 518 definition 4,.24 evaluation 517-23

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formulations 24, 25, 302-3 history 3-4, 24-5, 685-6 legislation 567 odour suppressors 518 screening products 518-23 testing 24-5

Deofragrances 24 Deoperspirants 25 Deosprays 24, 303 Depilation

creams 92, 96-9 mechanism 97 progressive 100 shaving 92-3 sugaring 100-1 waxing 92, 93-6 see also Depilatories; Epilation

Depilatories chemical composition and

requirements 96-9 skin reactions 97, 99 soothing lotions 99 wax composition 93

Dermatitis, see Skin Dermatologists 619 Detergents 2,172-3,352,403 Dibenzoylmethanes 419 Dibutylphthalate 251 Dicalcium phosphate dihydrate 72 Dihydroacetic acid as fungicide 586 Dihydroxyacetone 425 Dimethicone 423 Dimethyl silicone 217 Disodium dihydrogen pyrophosphate

81 Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate 31 Disodium phosphate 53 Dueting powder, see Talcum powder Dyes (soluble dyes) 197-203,209-10,

221

Eccrine sweat glands 5,342,524 Egyptians and cosmetics 640-5 Embalming 643-4 Emollients 39 Emulsifiers 536,544,547-8 Emulsions

Index 743

definition 534 dye uptake 555 formulations 535-7,673 hydrophilic-lipophilic balance

545-50 instability 537-9 London - van der Waals forces

539-40 manufacture 550 micro- 552 properties 551 rheology 553-4 sedimentation 538 stabilization 539-44, 549 types 535, 554

Eosin acids in lipsticks 223-5 skin sensitization 225

Epilation 92,93, 100 see also Depilation

Erythemogenic wavelength 408 Essential oils, history 663, 670, 676 Ester value determination 452-4 Ethanol

in analytical methods 453,466 in men's fragrances 259-60 in mouth rinses 86 in range binder 313 in shaving preparations 268 in skin lotions, tonics 359, 366

Eumelanin 196 European Community relevant

Legislation cosmetic definition 562 draft 6th Amendment 564, 565 EC Cosmetics Directive 64, 114,562 environmental rules 566 labelling 563-4 pre-market approval 562 restrictions 564-5 safety substantiation 565 trade secrecy rules 564

European cosmetics, historical aspects 648-54,658-63,674-5

Evaporimeter 504 Eye fix creams 333 Eye irritation 609, 716

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744 Index

Eyeliners 326-8 Eye make-up 317,318-19,323-4,327 Eye makeup removers 331-2 Eye paints 640-2 Eye pencils 318 Eye shadow

formulations 319-23 powder form 323-6 types 318-26

Eye tonics 332-3

Face masks and packs 103-6 Face powders

colour 114-17 compact 121-5 covering power 111 historical aspects 679 ingredients and formulation 110,

111,118-21 legislation 114-17 manufacturing process 125 pearlescent pigments 116-17, 126 perfume 117-18 purpose and function 109-10 quality control 127-9 sterilization 113

Facial cleansers 354-8 Facial scrubs 106 Fatty acids determination 466-8 Fluoride and fluoridation

determination 485-8 evaluation 529 in toothpaste 72, 79, 87

Foaming agents, see Surfactants Foam stabilizers 32 Formaldehyde 84,251,255 Fragrances

abuse 659 early European history 648-52 early London history 665-7 Egyptian history 642-3 environmental 734-5 modern history 687-8,735,737 psychology of 728-38

Fragrances, men's formulations 260-1 market 260 psychology of 733-4

types 258-60 Fuller's earth 103 Fungi and fungicides 578,586

Gantrez 81, 83 Gas-bearing electrodynamometer

501-2 Gelling agents 75 Glycerol

determination 481-2 as humectant 74,86

Glycol distearate 33 Glycol stearate 33 Gram's stain 577 Greeks and cosmetics and

perfumes 648-51 Gum disease 68

Hair bleaching 102 blow drying 156 characteristics 147-9 chemistry 134-41 cleaning factors 506-7 colour restorers 284 effects of water on 142 'flyaway' 148, 180 greasiness evaluation 509-12 growth 133-4, 262 historical aspects 662, 665, 682-3 men's preparations 272-86 natural pigmentation 196-7, 210 permanent set 145-6, 163-5 physiology 130 properties 142-4 regreasing 171, 506-7 removal 92-102 static electrification 155 straightening 139, 165-8 structure 130-3, 197 superfluous 91-2 wigs 668-9,675 see also Depilation; Epilation; Hair

conditioners; Hair colourants; Hair shampoos; Hair sprays; Keratin; Oxidation dyeing; Permanent waving; Setting lotions

Hair colourants

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categories 197 dye classes 199, 200, 210-11 and hair structure 197-8 history 197, 199,200,682 legislation 567 men's 285 oxidative/auto-oxidative 210 permanent 202-9 semi-permanent 200-2 temporary 198-200

Hair conditioners analysis 471-5 evaluation 153-4 ingredients 149-52, 184, 188-9 men's 277-8 mousse 152-3,286 rinse 150-2

Hairdressings, types and formulations 161-3,278-84

Hair dyes, see Hair colourants Hair lotions and tonics (men's)

anti-dandruff 275-7, 512-13 conditioning 277-8 constituents 274 dressings 160-3,277-84 emulsions 282-3 history 273-5, 279-84

Hair shampoos acid-balanced 180, 191 additives 179-87 analysis 471-9 anti-dandruff 184-7, 277, 477, 509,

512-17 antimicrobial additives 180 classification 171 evaluation 507-9 foaming 174-5, 180 formulations and ingredients 175-6,

188-93 history 170 hydrotopes 179 pearlescent effects 179, 190 post-shampoo products 146-7,149 powder 191 requirements 170-1 soil removal 172-3 viscosity 179-80 see also Body shampoo; Hair lotions;

Sebum Hair sprays

Index 745

formulations 158-60,301-2 types 156-8, 159-60

Hair styling mousse 155, 301 Hand lotions 381-5 Henna 642 Hexachlorophane 24,584-5 Highlighters, see Rouge Hirsutism 91 Human volunteer panels 490-1,

493-6,617-18 Humectants 74, 86 Hydrogen peroxide determination

469-70 Hydrophilic-lipophilic balance 41,

164-5,545-7 Hydroxyapatite 584 Hydroxybenzoates 585-6 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 75-6 Hydroxypropyl methyicellulose 33 Hypertrichosis, see Hirsutism Hypoallergenic preparations 225,242,

251 Hypsochromic shift 423

Imidazoline derivatives 178 India and cosmetics 647, 652 International Fragrance Association,

IFRA 616, 713-16, 724 Isopropyllanolate 246 Isopropyl myristate 40, 218

Japanese cosmetic legislation coal tar colours list 570 cosmetic definition 566-7 eco-logo 571 ingredients 568, 569-70 labelling 567 manufacturers 568 quasi-drugs 567 safety 569, 570

Jews and cosmetics 646-7

Kaolin 103, 112 Karl Fischer titration 449-51 Keratin

amino acid analysis 137-8

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746 Index

amino acid types 134-6 electrical properties 503-4 peptide linkage 136-7 physical properties 141-5, 156

Keratinization 339-40 Kjeldahl distillation 459 Kohl 641,653,673

Lactic acid and derivatives in cuticle remover 247 in shaving products 268 in skin care 377, 610

Lanolin and derivatives 40,221-2,246 Legislation, see European Community;

Japan; US; individual items Linear Regression Method 602-3 Liposomes in skin care 377-8 Lipsalves, historic 645 Lipstick

additives 230-1 colours and pigments 222-30,238 fragrance 230 historical aspects 679 hypo allergenic 225, 242 ingredients and formulations

216-22,231-6 legislation 215-16 manufacture 238,239-41 microbial contamination 230 pack disintegration 218 peariescent effects 229 quality assurance 241-2 requirements 214-15 testing 227-8,236-8 ultraviolet filters 231 waxes 218-21

Magnesium carbonate 58, 103, 112 Magnesium Laureth Sulfate 46 Magnesium silicate (hydrous) 58, 113 Magnesium stearate 111 Magnesium trisilicate 113 Malodour

axillary 5, 342 compounds 5 control 517 see also Deodorants

Manicure preparations see Nails Mascara 328-31 Melanin

melanogenesis 408 and ultraviolet radiation 407-9 see also Skin

Men's toiletries see Fragrances; Shaving products

Mercaptan reduction 139 6-Methyl coumarin 720 3-Methyl-2-hexenoic acid 5 Microbial control, see Bacteria;

Moulds; Viruses; Yeasts Microbial Quality Management 574,

583 Microbiological Accelerated Electrical

Methods 603 Microbiological challenge tests

587-91,603 Microbiological monitoring 595-601 Microbiological Rapid Screening

Methods 602-3 Microbiological techniques 575-83 Mirapol 184 Moisturizers

evaluation 499-500 formulation 368-78 function 351 and sunscreens 424

Moulds 578,588,589,590 Mousse products 151, 152-3,285-6,

301,431 Mouth rinses

anti-cavity 87-8 anti-tartar 88 ingredients and formulations 86-8 legislation 567 requirements 85-6

Mouthwash definition 64 see also Mouth rinses

Mucous membrane irritation 609, 716-17

MUM 4 Myelenisis 172-3

Nails bleaches 247

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calcium content 244-5 cuticle removers 246-8 damage 246 extenders 258 historical aspects 641,677-8 nicotine stain remover 248 protein conditioner 246 structure 244-5 see also Nail enamel

Nail enamel (and polish and laquer) constituents and ingredients 249,

250-6 evaluation 529 hypoallergenic 251 pearle scent effects 253-4 plasticizers 251-2 removers 256-8 rheology 253 solvents 250-1

Newcastle Friction Meter 500-1 Nitrocellulose (nail enamels) 249,251 Nitrogen determination 457-60 2-Nitro-p-phenylenediamines 200 Non-volatile matter

determination 446-7

Oatmeal 103-4 ODO-RO-NO 4 Odour classification 688-9 Oleyl a1chol 217-18 Oral health and hygiene 64,67-9

see also Mouth rinses; Teeth; Toothpaste

Oxidation dyeing of hair chemistry and processes 202-5 m-couplers 205-8 primary intermediates 205

Ozokerite wax 219 Ozone layer 293-4

Paraffin wax 221 Pearl effects see Eye make-up; Face

Powders; Hair shampoo; Lipstick; Nail enamel

Pearl from fishscale 229, 253 Perfume

consumer acceptance 705-8

Index 747

cost 699-700 evaluation 701-5, 708-12 inhalation toxicity tests 715 orientation 695 preparation time 698-9 purchasing 723-6 safety-in-use 712-23 suppliers 694-8 see also Fragrances

Perfumery 676, 687-9 Permanent waving preparations

analysis 468-70 composition 96, 139, 163-4 history 683 legislation 567 relaxing cream 164

Persia and cosmetics 648 p-Phenylene diamine 202-4, 204, 205,

208 Pheomelanins 196 pH measurement 451-2 Photo-irritants 610, 719 Pigments, preparation 225-9

see also Face powders; Lipsticks; Rouges

Pilocarpine 274 Plaque, see Teeth Polyethylene glycols 74 Polyquaterniums 180-2, 190 Polysorbates 32 Polyvinylpyrrolidones 423 Pomades 279-80, 675 Potassium hydroxide cuticle removers

247 Pressurized dispensers

airspray system 305 Exxel sysem 305-7 Pump driven hair-spray 159 see also Aerosols, Mousse products

Propellants, see Aerosols Propylene glycol and derivatives 74,

217 1,3-Propylene glycol stearate 179 Propylhydroxybenzoate 230 Pseudofolliculties 262, 268 Pyroctone olamine 185 Pyrophosphates determination 483-4

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748 Index

Quantitative structure-activity relationships (QSAR) 613

Quinine 274

Radiation, see Solar radiation; UV radiation

Research Institute for Fragrance Materials Inc. 713-15,716,724

Resins, see Depilation Risk assessment ( cosmetics) 607-8,

614-17 Rock salt, see Sodium chloride Romans and cosmetics and perfumes

651-3 Ross-Miles foaming apparatus 38-9,

174 Rouge

cream 314-15 historical aspects 661,664, 667 liquid 309-10 binders for compact 310-14 compact 310-14 peariescent 312, 315 pigments 308,310-11,313 powder 310-12 stick 315-16 testing 315 water-repellent 312-13

Salicylates 418 Salicylic acid 274 Sampling techniques 443-4 Saponification value

determination 452-4 Sarcosinates 31 Scanning electron microsopy 499 Sebaceous glands 342,349,350

see also Seborrhoea; Sebum Seborrhoea 186, 277

see also Sebum Sebum

and acne 350 and balding 273 composition and properties 171-2,

174,186,349,506-7 and dandruff 513 function 349-50

healthy and seborrhoeic 186 and shampoo treatments 507

Setting (styling) lotions aerosol mousses 155-6 formulations and properties 154-6 testing 144, 156

Shampoo, see Body shampoo; Hair shampoo

Shaving products (men's) aerosol 263,265-6,305 after-shave products 269-70 astringent 268 brushless 267-8 dry 268-9 effective shaving 262-3 historical aspects 641,681 humectants 263 lather creams 263-5,400 post-foaming gel 266, 299 skin irritation 262, 266 soaps 400 see also Fragrances, men's

Shower products foaming agents 29, 46 gels 354 ingredients and formulations 46-50 shampoos 45-50,354

Silicas in face powder 113, 114 Silicones

in lipsticks 218 in shampoos 180-1, 184

Silk powder 113 Skin

biology 335-6 body temperature control 343 cohesography 503 dermatitis 346 dermis 341-3 elasticity measurement 499, 501-2 epidermis 338-41 function 336 friction measurement 499-51 hypodermis 344 irr keratinization 339-40 Langerhans' cells 341 mechanical properties 496-7 ,

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499-503 melanin 341, 408 morphology 496-9 permeability 345-6 photography 498-9 sensory receptors 342-4 softness evaluation 502 stratum corneum 338-9,345,503 structure 336-9 sweat glands and sweating 5,342,

524-9 types 336,410-11 see also Hair; Keratin; Skin care

preparations; Skin sensitization; UV radiation

Skin care preparations additives 376-8 cleansing products 351-64 consumer needs 347 evaluation 496-7 oily skin cleansers 358-60 plant extract use 375 soap use 346, 351-4 toners 364-8

Skin sensitization and damage and bacteria 574 and cosmetics 608-10 and depilatories 97, 99 dry skin development 348, 498 and eosin acids 225 lipsticks 225 nail preparations 246 oily skin development 349 and perfume use 712,717 shaving 262,266 solar keratoses 409 stinging 610 surface effects 499 surfactants 345,348 transepiderrnal water loss 347, 504 and ultraviolet radiation 610

Soap analysis 471-7 definition 393 historical aspects 393-4,653,664-5,

672,677 ingredients and formulations 262,

395, 399, 400-2 production 394-9 superfatted 399 testing 466-8

Index 749

translucent and transparent 401-3 see also Shaving products; Skin care

Soap/detergent bars 402-4 Sodium aluminium chlorohydroxy

lactate complex 4 Sodium bicarbonate 24,53,518 Sodium borate 53, 673 Sodium carbonate 51-2 Sodium carboxyl methyl cellulose 75 Sodium chloride 52 Sodium cocoamphoacetate 31 Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 46 Sodium fluoride see Fluoride Sodium Laureth-13 Carboxylate 32 Sodium Laureth Sulfate 29-30,33,35,

46,585 Sodium lauryl sulfate 30, 74 Sodium metaphosphate 73 Sodium perborate 53 Solar radiation 407

see also Sunburn Sorbic acid as fungicide 586 Sorbitan laurate 32 Sorbitol

determination 481-2 in toothpaste and mouth rinses 74, 86

Spa water as bath salts 56-7 Spermaceti 221-2 Squalene 171-2 Stannic oxide 249 Stearalkonium bentonite 253 Stearalkonium hectorite 253 Stearic monoethanolamide 179 Strontium acetate 84 Strontium chloride 84 Strontium sulfide 96 Sulfobetaines see Sultaines Sulfosuccinates 30-1, 176 Sulfur 103, 274, 276 Sultaines 32 Sumerians and cosmetics 645-6 Sunburn

after-burn treatment 425-6

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750 Index

causes and measurements 406-16 Sunburn and sunscreen preparations

choice 410-11 emollients 423 evaluation 529-30,610 history 405-6,686 ingredients and formulations

416-22,427-37 markets 426-7 minimum erythemal dose 411-12 sun protection factors 411-13,416,

530 see also Melanin; Skin sensitization;

UV radiation Surfactants

amphoteric 31,178-9,348 analysis 471-7, 480-1 anionic 29-32,175,348 for bath oils 41 cationic 29,31,179,348 and emulsions 536 foaming agents 29 for lipsticks 221 for mouth rinses 87 nonionic 32 for shampoos 176-9, 182-3 for shaving products 263,265 for toothpaste 73-4 see also Skin sensitization

Sweat glands, see Skin Syndet bars 352-4

Talcum powder in face powder 111, 112, 113 formulations 58-9,119-23 ingredients 57-8,113 legislation 567 purity standards 58,113,584 in shampoos 192

Tanning agents 425 Tartar, see Teeth Teeth

caries 67-8 gum disease 68 pellicle 68-9 plaque 69 structure 65-6

tartar 69 see also Fluoride; Mouth rinses;

Toothpastes Tetrapotassium pyrophosphate 81 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 81 Thickeners 32 Thioglycollates as hair straighteners

167-8 Thioglycollic acid

determination 468-9 salts 96 see also individual salts; Permanent

waving Thracians and cosmetics 646 Thran Spray Gun 519 Titanium dioxide 111,228-9,420-2 Toning lotions 60-1 Toothpastes

analysis 479-88 anticaries 79-81 antiplaque 82-4, 529 antitartar 81-2,483 definitions 64, 71 evaluation 529 flavours 76-7 formulations 77-85 history 69, 678 ingredients 70, 72-7 legislation 567 manufacture 78-9 requirements 69-71 sensitivity 84-5 sweeteners 76 therapeutic benefits 71 see also Fluoride; individual

constituents; Teeth Triclosan 24,83,302 Tripolite 192 Trisodium phosphate 52, 247

Ultraviolet filters see Lipstick Ultraviolet radiation

absorbers 699 EC legislation 562 effect on chemicals 610, 722, 723 erythemogenic wavelength 408 measurement 413-16

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skin ageing and cancers 530, 712 types (UVA, UVB, UVC) 406-8,

530-1 Unsaponifiable matter determination

454-6 Urticarial response 610 US legislation

adverse experience reporting 559 cosmetic definition 557 Cosmetic Ingredient Review Program

560 cosmetic labelling 557-8 manufactures 559 restrictions 559-60 safety substantiation 560

Viruses 576 Vitamins in skin care 376-7 Volatile matter determination 446-7 Volatile organic compound emissions 7 Volumetric analysis 444-6

Water content determination 447-51 testing 595

Index 751

Waxes beeswax 219 hard 220-1 microcrystalline 219-20 see also Depilatories; individual

waxes; Lipsticks Wigs, see Hair Wool industry 145

Xanthan 75

Yeasts 578,588,589,590

Zinc citrate 83 Zinc oxide 24, 58, 111,420 Zinc phenosulfate 268 Zinc pyridine thiol-N-oxide 277 Zinc pyrithione

analysis 477-9 properties 514 in shampoo 184-6, 509

Zinc ricineolate 518 Zinc stearate 58,111