INDEX

Volume 28 l Issue 60 l 1986

Compiled by Patricia A. Fletcher

This issue comprises all of Volume 28

Mountains are listed by their official names and ranges; quotation marks indicate unofficial names. Ranges and geographic locations are also in- dexed. Unnamed peaks (e.g., Peak 2037) are listed following the range or country in which they are located.

All expedition members cited in major articles are included, whereas only the leaders and persons supplying information in the Climbs and Expeditions section are listed.

Titles of books reviewed in this issue are grouped as a single entry under Book Reviews.

Abbreviations used: Article: art.; Bibliography: bibl.; Obituary: obit.

A

Abi Gamin (Garhwal Himalaya), 253 Abra (Cordillera de Potosi, Bolivia),

196 Abrego, Mari, 293-95 Acay (Argentina), 197 Accidents: Aconcagua, 200; Ama Dablam,

22 1; Annapuma Dakshin, 245; Broad Peak, 269; Denali, 140, 141; Everest, 227-28, 29.5, 298-99; Garhwal, Peak 6131, 257; Gaurishankar, 236; Gurja Himal, 251; Himalchuli, 240; K2, 268, 271; Kamet, 252; Kang Guru, 242; Kangchenjunga, 215; Kangchungtse, 219-20; Langtang Lirung, 237; Lhotse, 229, 232; Lukpilla Brakk, 282; Manaslu, 239; Masherbrum, 277; McGinnis Peak, 145; Nanga Parbat, 288, 290; Pabil, 238; Patagonian Icecap, 207; Rakaposhi East, 285; Saser Kangti II, 261; Siula Grande, 194; Tawoche, 221; Thalay Sagar, 256; Yalung Kang, 213-14

Aconcagua (Argentina), 112, 114, 197-200; parachute descent of, 200

Adams, B., 114 Adams, W., 114 Adlok Peak (Baffin Island), 185 Aeolian Tower (Utah), 168 Agssuassat (Greenland), 186 Agua Blanca (Culata, Sierra de la,

Venezuela), 187 Airport Tower. See Aeolian Tower. Alaska, arts., 57-63, 65-68, 69-72; 139-5 1 Alaska Range, arts., 57-63, 65-68, 69-72;

139-45, 147 Alaska Range: Peak 5350, 147; Peak 6210,

147; Peak 6290, 147; Peak 7290, 147 Aide, Carlo, 220 Aleutian Range (Alaska), 147-48 Altar (Ecuador), 188 Altar Group (Ecuador), 188 Abanico (Merida, Sierra Nevada de,

Venezuela), 187 Ama Dablam (Nepal Himalaya), art.,

16-19; 220-23

341

Amarillo (Zenta Range, Argentina), 196-97 American Alpine Club, The: Alaska

Section, 150-51, 334; Cascade Section, 334-35; New York Section, 335-36; Sierra Nevada Section, 336

Anaroyo. See Cunurana. Andes (South America), early ascents in,

art., Ill-16 Andrews, Rosamond C., art., 47-55 Angdu Ri (Himachal Pradesh), 258 Annapuma (Nepal Himalaya), 242-43 Annapuma II (Nepal Himalaya), 243 Annapuma III (Nepal Himalaya), 244 Annapuma IV (Nepal Himalaya), 244 Annapuma Dakshin (Nepal Htmalaya), 245 Annapuma South. See Annapuma Dakshin. Antarctica, 207-209 Anyemaqen (Kunlun Mountains, China),

293 Anyemaqen IV (Kunlun Mountains,

China), 293 Aota, Htroshi, 224 Aprin, Hooman, 16-19 Arabesque Towers (Coast Mountains,

British Columbia), 182 Arch Canyon (Bridges National Monument,

Utah), 168-69 Arches National Park (Utah), 168 Arctic, 185 Arenas, Cerro (Chile), 203 Argentina, arts., 97-100, 101-9; 196-201,

203-206 Argonaut Peak (Cascade Mountains,

Washmgton), 154 Arizona, 172 Arizona Mountaineering Club, 336 Arko, Vojslav, 203-204, 205-206 Arranz, Alejandro, 223-24 Asia, 209-304 Asperity, Mount (Coast Mountains,

British Columbia), 181 Astier, Yves, 200, 203 Astillado (Patagonia), 206 Atanasov, Boian, 243 Atillaborgen (Staunings Alps, Greenland),

186 Atter, Mount (Greenland), 186 Aucanquilcha (Chile), 113 Ausangate (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru),

195 Austin, Waddell, 112 Avalanche Peak (6196m) (Garhwal

Himalaya), 210

Avalanche Peak (6443m) (Garhwal Himalaya), 209

Avalanches: Kashmir, 259

B

Baba, Hiroyuki, 218 Baffin Island (Canada), art., 39-45; 185 Bagley, John, 39-45 Baichechekay (Tien Shan, USSR), 304-305 Bailey, H., Ill-12 Bailey, Solon, 11 l-12 Bakewell, Anderson, 113 Bakree Peak (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),

279 Balconies (Pinnacles National Monument,

California), 157 Balog, James, 258 Balyan Bashi (Tien Shan, USSR), 304 Baranek, Janusz, 256 Barisyonok, Oleg, 21-26 “Barmal Peak” (Jammu and Kashmir), 258 Barrachina (Greenland), 186 Barrakhs (Jordan), 306 Barrard, Liliane. 217-18, 268 Barrard, Maurice, 217-18, 268 Barrille, Mount (Alaska Range), 144;

ascents of, 143 Baruntse (Nepal Himalaya), 220 Bass, Richard, 208, 225 Batard, Marc, 223 Bates, Robert H., art., 27-38; 33 1 Batwinas, Dan, 175 Bear Mountain (Cascade Mountains,

Washington), 152-53 Bear’s Tooth (Alaska Range), 144 Bear’s Tooth (Wind River Range,

Wyoming), 172 Bebie, Mark, 152-53 Beckey, Fred, 172, 182-84 Beghin, Pierre, 297-98 Belak, Stane, 249-50 Beorchia, Antonio, 196-97, 200-201 Bepler, Thomas C., 39-45 Berbeka, Maciej, 7- 13 Bergamaschi, Arturo, 293 Bering, E., 113 Berkman, Martin, 7-13 Berljak, Darko, 189-90 Bernard, Jean-Pierre, 258 Betancourt, Jose, 187 Bhagirathi I1 (Garhwal Himalaya), 255-56

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1986

342

Bhagtrathi III (Garhwal Himalaya), 256 Bharte Khunta (Garhwal Himalaya), 210 Bhrtgupanth (Garhwal Himalaya), 256 Bhutan, 209, 210-l 1 Btanchi, Cesare Cesa, 255 Big Thompson Canyon (Colorado), 175 Bighorn Mountains (Wyoming), 175 Bingham, Hiram, 112 Bishop, Robert H., II3 BJomstad, Eric, 165-69, 172 Black Velvet Canyon (Charleston Range,

Nevada), 161-63 Blackadar, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains,

Yukon Territory), 178-79 Blanch, Conrad, 297 Blanchard, Barry, 73-79 Bobisghir (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),

279 Bogomolov, G., 21-26 Bogomolov, S., 21-26 BoJor, Ovidiu, 251 Boks (Tien Shari,, USSR), 304 Bolivar (Merida, Sierra Nevada de,

Venezuela), 114, 187 Bolivar (Santa Marta. Sierra Nevada de,

Colombia), I 13 Bolivia, 195-96 Bona, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains,

Alaska), 149 Bonington, Christian, 225-26 BOOK REVIEWS

Breaking Point, Glenn Randall, 315-16 Chaltel (Fitzroy), Carlos Capellas,

editor, 324-25 La Cordillera Real de 10s Andes,

Bolivia, Alain Messili, 324-25 Eric Shipton: The Six Mountain Travel

Books, 3 I2 Everest: De 10s Andes al Himalaya,

Gaston Oyarzdn, 3 14 Everest Grand Circle: A Climbing and

Skiing Adventure through Nepal and Tibet, Ned Gillette and Jan Reynolds, 312-13

Everest 1982, USSR Mountaineering Federation, 313-14

Everest: The Testing Place, John B. West, 308-309

Expedition Medicale Francaise en Himalaya, Jean Paul Richalet, editor, 310

High Altitude Deterioration, J. Rivolier, P. Cerretelli, J. Foray and P. Segantini, editors, 309

INDEX

Human Adaptation, Amitabha Basu and Kailash C. Malhotra, edttors, 309

Le jeu de la montagne et du hasard, Anne Sauvy, 315

Joe Dodge: One New Hampshire Institution, William L. Putnam, 316-17

KlhmanJaro: The White Roof of Africa. Harald Lange, 322-24

Konsatsu Gaikoku Sanmei Jiten (A Concise Dictionary of Names of Foreign Mountains), lchiro Yoshizawa, 325

Medicina de Montana, Eusko Jaurlaritza, editor, 3 IO

Medicine for Mountaineering, Third Edition, James A. Wilkerson, editor. 310-l I

Menlove: The Life of John Menlove Edwards, Jim Perrin, 319-21

Mountameering First Aid, Third Edition, Martha J. Lentz, Stephen C. Macdonald and Jan D. Carline, 311-12

Off the Beaten Track, Elizabeth D. Woolsey, 3 I9

Parque National Huascaran, Ancash-Peni, Jim Battle, 324-25

Shawangunk Rock Climbing, Richard DuMais, 32 1-22

Two Generations, Edmund and Peter Hillary, 317-18

BorJon, Ernest Charles, 334 Borlte, Jacques, 186 Boyer, Jean-Pierre, 258 Braham, Trevor, 278 Bramona i Rams, Ram&r, 186 Brand, Eric, art., 39-45 Breashears, David, 21-26 Bridges National Monument (Utah), 168-69 Bridwell, James D., 302-303 British Columbia, arr., 73-79; 179-85 Broad Peak (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),

267, 268-69, 289 Brookes, Austin, 298 Brooks Range (Alaska), 148 Brown, Keith, 303 Brownstone Wall (Jumper Canyon,

Nevada), 165 Buhler, Carlos, art., 81-86; 184 Biihler, Ueli, 199 Buracchio, Christian, 202 Burchfiel, Clark, 27-38 Burgher, Peter H., 147

343

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1986

C

Cabot, Thomas, 113 Cachi (Argentina), 197 Calcagno, Gianni, 292-93 California, 155-60 Campanile Esloveno (Argentina), 201 Canada, 175-85 Candarave (Cordillera Occidental, Peru),

III Canonigo (Ecuador), 188 Canyonlands National Park (Utah), 168,

169, 171 Cari Cari (Cordillera de Potosi, Bolivia),

196 Carihairazo Este (Ecuador), 188 Carter, H. Adams, 113, 114, 315 Casarotto, Renato, 272 Cascade Mountains (Washington), 151-54 Cashan Este (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 191 Castillo (Cocuv, Sierra Nevada de,

Chimney Rock (Cascade Mountains, Washington), 153

China, arf., 27-38; 209, 293, 302-304 China. See also Tibet. Cho Oyu (Nepal Himalaya), art., 7- 13;

234-36 Cho Oyu (Tibet), 234 Chobutse (Nepal Himalaya), 236 Chochia (Soviet climber), 21-26 Cholatse (Nepal Himalaya), 220 Chomolhari Range (Bhutan), 210, 21 I Chongtar. See Spender, Mount, Chopicalqui (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 191 Chomii, Nicholas, 21-26 Chorten Peak (Karakoram Range, India),

266

Colombia), i87 Castle, Philip, 194 Catedral (Argentina), 201 Cathedral Spires (Kichatna Mountains,

Alaska), ascents of, 143 Caucasus (USSR), 209 Cauthom, Daniel W., 153, 181-82 Cayambe (Ecuador), 114, 188 Cayesh (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 190 CB 13a (Himachal Pradesh). 258 Celestial‘Peak (Sichuan Province, China),

Chrobak, Eugeniusz, 7- I3 Chuculai (Chile), 201 Chugach Mountains (Alaska), 148-49 Cbugach Mountains: Peak 6148, 148; Peak

6206, 148; Peak 6313, 148; Peak 6339, 148; Peak 6650, 148; Peak 6985, 148; Peak 7080, 148;Peak 7111, 148,Peak 7234, 148; Peak 7327, 148, Peak 7500, 148; Peak 7689, 148

Church, Walter Stuart, I1 I Clevenger, Vem I55 Climbing exchanges: Japanese, art.. 47-55;

150-5 I Clinch, Nicholas B., 27-38 Coast Mountains (British Columbia),

179-84 303

Cergol, Luciano, 245 Chakraborty, Pranesh, 252 Chand, Prem, 266 Chandra Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 257 Chandra Parbat II. See Chandra Parbat. Charleston Range (Nevada), 161-65 Chassagne, Jean-Paul, 199-200 Chatteriee, Prodvot, 252 Cheesmond, Daiid Malcolm, art., 73-79 Chehalis Range (Coast Mountains, British

Columbia), I82

Cochas, Nevados de (Peru), 1 I3 Cocuy, Sierra Nevada de (Colombia), I87 Cohen, Geoffrey, 275 Colchuck Peak (Cascade Mountains,

Washington), 154 Collpa Anante (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru),

195 Colombia, 187 Colomer, Jordi, I86 Col6n (Santa Marta, Sierra Nevada de,

Colombia), 1 I3 Colorado, 174-75

Cheney, Michael J., 215-17, 219-21, 224-25, 228-29, 232, 235, 236-38, 239-40, 241, 242, 243-46, 250, 251, 252

Cherubim Dome (Seauoia National Park. California), I.57

Chiku, Takashi. 258 Child, William Spencer, obir., 331 Chile, art., 87-95; 201-203, 207 Chillan (Chile), I13 Chimborazo (Ecuador), 112, 114, 188

Columbia Icefield Group (Rocky Mountains, Canada), art., 73-79

Cookie Cliff (Yosemite, California), 158 Copiap6 (Chile), 201 Cordillera Apolobamba (Peru), 195 Cordillera Blanca (Peru). art.. 81-86: 112.

189-91 Cordillera Central (Peru), 114 Cordillera de Potosi (Bolivia), 195-96 Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz (Bolivia), 196 Cordillera Huayhuash (Peru), 114, 191-94

344

Cordillera Occidental (Peru), 11 l-12 Cordillera Oriental (Colombia), 113 Cordillera Oriental (Ecuador), 111 Cordillera Oriental (Peru), 113 Cordillera Real (Bolivia), 114, 196 Cordillera Vilcanota (Peru), 194-95 Coropuna (Cordillera Occidental, Peru),

112 Cotopaxi (Ecuador), 114, 188 Cottage Dome, West (Sierra Nevada,

California), 159 Cowles, Elizabeth, 113 Coyle, Russell, 113 Crescent Mountain (Utah), 169-7 1 Crosson, Mount (Alaska Range), ascents

of, 143 Crow, Pieter, 314 Crow’s Head Spires (Utah), 169 Crowter, W., 1 I4 Cubo (Patagonia), 206 Culata, Sierra de la (Venezuela), 187 Culbert, Dick, 112 Cummings, Peter, 302-303 Cunurana (Cordillera de Potosi, Bolivia),

195, 196

D

D41. See Barmal Peak. Da Polenza, Agostino, 269-71 Daff Dome (Sierra Nevada, California),

159 Davies, David, 87-95 de la Motte, E., 1 I2 de Visser, Pieter, 252 Decamp, Erik, 221, 255 Demolombe, Pierre, 2 19-20 Denali (Alaska Range), art., 65-68;

139-40, 141-42; ascents of, 143 Denali Medical Research Project. See High

Latitude Research Group (Denali). Denali National Park and Preserve

(Alaska), 139-42; ascents in, 143 Dharamsura (Himachal Pradesh), 258 Dhaulagiri (Nepal Himalaya), 242, 246-50 Dhaulagiri II (Nepal Himalaya), 250 Di Federico, G., 27 1 Dial, Roman, 144-47 Dickey, Mount (Alaska Range), ascents of,

143 Dickinson, Glen, 47-55 Diefenderfer, Paul, 336

INDEX

Dill, David Bruce, 113 Dionisio, D., I13 Diran (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 282,

283, 285-86 Dirgol Zom (Hindu Kush, Pakistan),

282-93 Dixon, Jerry, 17X-79 “Doab” (Karakoram Range, India), 263 Dobashi, K., 290 Dodge, T. A., 113 Doherty, Sarah, 65-68 Dome Rock (Rattlesnake Range,

Wyoming), 173 Don Luis (Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz,

Bolivia), 196 DoAa In& (Chile), 201 Dongus-Orun (Caucasus, USSR), 209 Denim, James U., 57-63 Dorje Lakpa (Nepal Himalaya), 237 Dossin, Eric, 224 Dove. See Paloma. Dozier Dome (Sierra Nevada, California),

160 Dragon Peak (Sierra Nevada, California),

155 Dragontail Peak (Cascade Mountains,

Washington), 154 Drug Dome (Sierra Nevada, California),

159 Duenwald, Jeff, 214 Duff, Malcolm, 295-97 Dunator (Staunings Alps, Greenland), 186 Duncker, L., 112 Durango (Colorado), 174 Dushanbe (Pamirs, USSR), 305-306

E

Eagle, Jimmy, 1 I4 Ebert, James (Jim), 337 Echelon Spire (Logan Mountains,

Northwest Territories), 185 Echevarria, Evelio, art.. I I I-16; 195-96,

324-25 Ecuador, 188 Edwards, E., 114 Edwards, H. T., 113 El Capitan (Yosemite, California), 157-58 Elbrus (Caucasus, USSR), 209 Elchibekov, Vadim, 305 Elephant Rock (Yosemite, California), 158 Elijah, Mount (Utah), 171

345

Embers Mountain (Coast Mountains, British Columbia), 183

Embick, Andrew, 47-55, 150-51 Emmett, Daniel, 208 Emmons, Arthur B., 114 Equipment: Protection, art., 117-21 E&d, Philip, 335-36 Ercalani. Maria Luisa. 275 Ermitatio (Chile), 201 Escoffier, Eric, 271 Esteve, Alain, 200 Etemite, Pointe de 1’ (Greenland), 186 Ethics, art., 14-15 Everest (Nepal Himalaya), 224-29 Everest (Tibet), 293-99

F

Fairview Dome (Sierra Nevada, California), 159

Faivre, Pierre, 256 Farrand, Camille, 11 I Faure, Frederic, 196, 200 Fame, Monique, 196, 200 Feller, Michael, 148 Ferrari, Casimiro, 220 Fichter, Walter, 245 Fine, Vincent, 229-32 Fitz Roy (Patagonia), arts., 97-100, 101-4,

203, 205 Flaczydski, Krzysztof, 7- I3 Fletcher. Patricia A.. 319 Florence Range (British Columbia), 179 Foott, Jeff, 27-38 Foraker, Mount (Alaska Range), ascents ox

143 Forbes, W. H., 113 Fossett, Stephen, 207 Four, Peak of the (Pamirs, USSR), 305 Francis, Henry S., Jr., 330 Frantar, Marija, 304-305 Frapier, Andre, 7-13 Free Korea Peak (Tien Shan, USSR), 304 Freedom Dome (Pinnacles National

Monument, California), 156-57 Freese, Lloyd, 175 Fremont Canyon (Rattlesnake Range,

Wyoming), 173 Friedrich, Peter, 201 Front Range (Colorado), 174 Fujii, Masaaki, 243 Furuhata, Yoshimichi, 239 Fuster, Beda, 104-9

AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1986

G

Gabites, Geoffrey, 221 Ganchen Group (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 279 Ganchen South (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 279 Ganesh (Nepal Himalaya), 238 Ganesh IV. See Pabil Gangapuma (Nepal Himalaya), 244 Garaioa, Xabier, 234 Garcia Astudillo, Alberta, 290 Gardzielewski, Miroslaw, 7-13 Garhwal (India), 209- 10, 252-57 Garhwal: Peak 6131, 257; Peak 6504, 257;

Peak 6739, 257 Gamer, William Vaughan, 21-26 Gasherbmm. See Hidden Peak. Gasherbrum II (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 14, 269, 271, 272-74, 289; hong-glidingfrom, 273; parachuting from, 273

Gasherbrum III (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 275

Gasherbtum IV (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), art., 1-5

Gasherbrum VI (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 275

Gasherbrum Group (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), geological survey of, 277-78

Gaurishankar (Nepal Himalaya), 236-37 Ghul-Lasht-Zom South (Hindu Kush,

Pakistan), 292 Giongo, Giuliano, 207 Girth Pillar (Cascade Mountains,

Washington), 154 Glenwood Springs Canyon (Rocky

Mountains, Colorado), 174 Golodov (Soviet climber), 21-26 Goodhue, Samuel H., 316-17 Goodman, Donald J., 334-35 Gordon, Johnathan, 87-95 Gore, Jerry M., 190-91 Graber, Michael, 97-100 Graf, Fredy, 269 Grainger, Mount (Coast Mountains, British

Columbia), 182 Grand Sentinel (Sierra Nevada, California),

155 Greenland, 185-86 Greenland: Peak 1780, 186; Peak 1790,

186 Grenelle Peak (Coast Mountains, British

Columbia), 182 Grenier, Gilbert, 185

346

Griffin, Lindsay, 188, 279 Guardian (Santa Marta, Sierra Nevada de,

Colombia), 113, 114 Guha, Kamal K., 221, 247, 252, 253, 257 Guillaumet (Patagonia), 206 Guppie Wall (Sierra Nevada, California),

159 Gurja Himal (Nepal Himalaya), 251 Gurla Mandhata (Tibet), 302; nomenclufure

of, 302 Gurudongmar (Sikkim Himalaya), 210

H

Haberl, Gerhard, 285 Hackett, Peter H., art.. 129-37 Hackett, William D., 114 Haid, Arthur, 232 Half Dome (Yosemite, California), 158 Hall, F. G., 113 Hall, Francis, 115 Hammer Dome (Sierra Nevada, California),

159 Harlequin Dome (Sierra Nevada,

California), 159 Harlrn, John, 189 Harrah, Dave, 114 Harrington, Randy, art., 16-19 Harrison Smith, Mount (Logan Mountains,

Northwest Territories), 185 Hatter, Gunther, 256 Harwood, Robert, 247 Hasegawa, Tsuneo, 298-99 Hasenkopf, Arnold, 258 Hawley, Elizabeth, 215-17, 219-21,

224-25, 228-29, 232, 235, 236-38, 239-40, 241, 242, 243-46, 250, 25 1, 252

Haydon Peak (Saint Elias Mountains, Alaska), 150

Hayes Range (Alaska), 144-45 Haystack Mountain (Wind River Range,

Wyoming), 172-73 Heinrich, Zygmunt Andrzej, 7-13 Hendicott, David, 188 Hennek, Dennis P., 27-38 Hersman, William G. (Willy), 147-48 Hesperus, Mount (Revelation Mountains,

Alaska), art., 69-72 Hidden Peak (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),

269-72 High Latitude Research Group (Denali),

art., 129-37; 139 Hikmul (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 279 Himachal Pradesh (India), 258

INDEX

Himalchuli (Nepal Himalaya), 240-41 Himalchuli North (Nepal Himalaya), 241 Himalchuli West (Nepal Himalaya), 242 Hindu Kush (Pakistan), 292-93 Hirabavashi. Katsutoshi. 302 Hirata,.Noriyuki, 51 Hoh Lungma Peak (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 279 Hollingshead, Frank, art., 129-37 Holmgren, Jack, 156-57 Hori, Ryohei, 211 Hombein, Thomas, 27-38 Homby, Geoffrey, 256 Houston, Charles S., art., 122-27; 308-10,

313-14 Howard, Tony, 306-307 Huandoy Este (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),

189-90 Huandoy Norte (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),

191 Huandoy Oeste (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),

191 Huascaran (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), art.,

81-86; 189 Huascaran Norte (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),

112, 189, 190 Huascaran Sur (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),

189. 190 Huayna Potosi (Cordillera Real, Bolivia),

196 Hummingbird Spire (Canyonlands National

Park, Utah), 171 Hunter, Mount (Alaska Range), art.,

57-63; 140-41, 143-44; ascents qf, 143 Huntington, Mount (Alaska Range),

ascents of, 143 Hussain, Rayyaz, 268

I

Ice climbing: Alaska, 150-51; Canada, 184-85: Colorado. 175; Utah, 172

Icebox Canyon (Charleston Range, Nevada), 165

Idaho Alpine Club, 336-37 Ikeda, lsao, 52 Ilgner, Amo U., 173 Ihamna (Aleutian Range, Alaska), 147-48 Illimani (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 196 Ilhniza Norte (Ecuador), 188 lmjatse (Nepal Himalaya), 223, 229 Incahuasi (Chile), 115 Incas, 196-97, 201 Index Town Walls (Washington), 154

347

THE Ah4ERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1986

India, 209, 211-13, 252-66 Inwood, Julie A., obit., 331-32 Iowa Mountaineers, 337 Ishinca (Cordillera Blanca. Peru). 190 Island in the Sky (Sierra Nevada,

California), 160 Island Peak. See Imjatse. Itten, Markus, 299 Ivanov, Valentin, 2 I-26 Iwa, Maku, 54

Kangchunne (Nepal Himalaya), 252 Kanglacha (Ladakh), 259 Kangtega (Nepal Himalaya), 223 Kanjut Sar (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),

282 Kanjut Sar II (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),

282

J

Jaccoux, Claude, 273, 304 Jacobson, Frederick, 322-24 Jade Dragon Mountain. See Yulong Shan. Jancahuay (Cordillera Oriental, Peru), 113 Jangtugan (Caucasus, USSR), 209 Jannu. See Kumbhakama. Japan, art.. 47-55 Jebel Al Kharza’li (Jordan), 306 Jebel Rum (Jordan), 306-307 Jebel Um’ishrin (Jordan), 306 Jervis, Steven, 319-21 Jessup, Richard, 219 Jichu Drake. See Tsherim Kang. Jirak, Ivan, 114 Joe, Edwin C., 155, 157 Jogasaki (Japan), 51-52 Johannesburg Mountain (Cascade

Kankapilnzum (Kilnla Kangri Range, Bhutan/Tibet), 210-l 1

Kapadia, Harish, 261-63, 266 Karakoram Range (China), 302-303 Karakoram Range (India), 259-66 Karakoram Range (Pakistan), art.. l-5;

266-87 Karakoram Range (Pakistan): Peak 5677,

283; Peak 6872, 287 Karma, Ang, 251 Karphogang (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),

279 Karyolung (Nepal Himalaya), 237 Kashmir (India), 258-59 Kashu, Shin, 277 Keamey, Alan J., arr., 101-9 Kedar Dome (Garhwal Himalaya), 255 Kefford, Michael, 217 Kekus, Nikola, 295-97 Kelly, Jeff, 154 Kelmelis, John A., 208 Kennedv. Michael. 221-23

Mountains, Washington), 153 Jones, Christopher A. G., 303-304. 336 Jordan, 306-307 Juncal (Argentina), 199 Juniper Canyon (Charleston Range,

Nevada), 163-65

K

K2 (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 266-68, 27 1, 277-78; geological survey of, 277-78; hang-gliding from. 273

K 12 (Karakoram Range, India), 266 Kabru Dome (Sikkim Himalaya), 211-13 Kagmara. See Kangchunne. Kalabaland Dhura (Garhwal Himalaya),

210

Kerns, Matthew, art., 65-68 Ketil (Greenland), 185 Keys, Ancel, 113 Khomutov, Valerii, 21-26 Kichatna Mountains (Alaska), 145-47;

ascents in, 143 Kichatna Mountains: Peak 6000, 145; Peak

8055, 145-47 Kichatna Spires. See Cathedral Spires. Kim, Ki-Heyg, 215-17, 229 Kim, Young-Ho, 237 King, Benjamin E. (Tom), obit., 328-30 King. Merle W.. 336-37 Kings Canyon (Sierra Nevada, California),

155 Kirat Chuli (Sikkim Himalava). 217 Kirghiz Ala Tau. See Kirghiz Range. Kirghiz Range (Tien Shan, USSR),

304-305

Kamet (Garhwal Himalaya), 252-55 Kanazawa, Ken, 235 Kang Guru (Nepal Himalaya), 242 Kangchenjunga (Sikkim Himalaya), 213,

214-15; hang-gliding from, 273 Kangchungtse (Nepal Himalaya), 219-20

Kirov Peak (Pamirs, USSR), 305 Klemenc, Stane, 205 Kluane National Park (Yukon Territory),

175 Knight, J., 293 Knight, Robert, 101-4 Knowles, Elizabeth, 113

348

Kobayashi, Shigeru, 52 Kobayashi, Soichi, 25 1 Koblmiiller, Edi, 285 Kommunizma (Pamirs. USSR). 305 Komzhenevskoi (Pam&, USSR), 305, 306 Korona (Tien Shan, USSR), 304 Kost, Danny W., 148-49 Kozak, David, 174 Kukreti, P. L., 252 Kukuczka, Jerzy, 7-13 Kulu (India), 258 Kumar. Kiran I., 256 Kumbhakama (Nepal Himalaya), 215-17 Kun (Jammu and Kashmir), 258 Kilnla Kangri Range (Bhutan/Tibet),

210-I I Kunlun Mountains (China), 293 Kurtyka, Wojciech, art., 1-5 Kurtz, Andrew, 16-19 Kusum Kanguru (Nepal Himalaya), 223-24 Kyong, Soo-Jeon, 223

L

Ladakh (India), 259 Lalaga Ri (Tibet), 299-302 Lamb, Alan, 331-32 Lamb Dome (Sierra Nevada, California),

159 Langshisha Ri (Nepal Himalaya), 237 Langtang Lirung (Nepal Himalaya), 237 Laramcota Chico (Cordillera de Quimsa

CNZ, Bolivia), 196 Latok II (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 279 Lavaraju, K. R., 253 Le Conte, Helen Malcolm, &it., 332 Lee, Kyu-Jin, 241 Lee, Suk-Woo, 244 Lenin (Pamirs, USSR). 305 L.ePivam, Louis, 274 Lesueur, Justin, 69-72 Leversee, Dick, 156 Lewis, Tony, 287-88 “Lhanmo” (Karakoram Range, India), 263 Lhotse (Nepal Himalaya), 229-32 Lhotse Shar (Nepal Himalaya), 229 Lighthouse, The (Canyonlands National

Park, Utah), 171 “Little Switzerland” (Alaska Range). ascents in, 143 Llaima (Chile), 113, 114 Llullaillaco (Chile), 201 Logan, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains,

Yukon Territory), 175

INDEX

Logan Mountains (Northwest Territories), 185

Longs Peak (Front Range, Colorado), 174 Lookout Point (Index Town Walls,

Washington), 154 Loretan, Erhard, 266-68 Lotus Flower Tower (Logan Mountains,

Northwest Territories), 185 Low Profile Dome (Sierra Nevada,

California), 159 Lucania, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains,

Yukon Territory, 178 Luis Garcia, Jo&, 246 Luke:, &stmir, 220 Lukpe La Brakk. See Lukpilla Brakk. Lukpilla Brakk (Karakoram Range.

Pgkistan), 282 Lunana Range (Bhutan/Tibet), 209 Lupgha Group (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 286 Lutz, Robert, 115

M

Machnik, Andrzej, 215 Mad Eagle Peak (Cascade Mountains,

Washington), 15 1 Majer, Janusz, 232 Makalu (Nepal Himalaya), 217-19 Makalu II. See Kangchungtse. Malangutti Sar (Karakoram Range,

Palclstan), 286 Manaslu (Nepal Himalaya), 238-40 Mandani (Gaihwal Himalaya), 210 Manica, Mario, 206 Marioulumne Dome (Sierra Nevada,

California). 159-60 Marmier, Jean-Claude, 21 l-13 Marmolejo (Chile), 202 Marquis, Dominique, 258 Marshall, Roger, i35-36 Martin. Carol, 65-68 Martin, James, 154, 182 Martini, Sergio, 218 Masang Kang (Chomolhari Range,

Bhutan), 211 Mascioli, Steven, 143-44 Masherbrum (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),

275-78 Maslowski, Wojciech, 244 Masyukov (Soviet climber), 21-26 Matas, Jaume, 232 Matho Kangri (Ladakh), 259 Matsumoto, Masaki, 150

349

Maxie, John, 114 Maxwell, Jim, 114 Mazeaud, Pierre, 269 McCabe, Stephen, 157 McClane, C., 113 McFarland, Ross, 113 McGinnis Peak (Alaska Range), 144-45 McKinley, Mount. See Denali. Medlicott Dome (Sierra Nevada,

California), 160 Meier, Ruedi, 217 Menthosa (Himachal Pradesh), 258 Mera (Nepal Himalaya), 224 Mereness, Thomas, 305 MCrida, Sierra Nevada de (Venezuela),

114, 187 Merrimac Butte (Utah), 165-68 Messner, Reinhold, 242-43 Miller, Benjamin LeRoy, 115 Mills, William J., Jr., art., 129-37 Milpocraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),

190-9 1 Misti (Cordillera Occidental, Peru), Ill-12 Mitsutoge Wall (Japan), 52 Miyano, Nobuaki, 245 Mlynarczyk, Zbigniew, 246 Molnar, Peter, 27-38 Momb, Kim, obit., 332-33 Monument Valley (Arizona), 172 Moore, Terris, 112 Moose’s Tooth (Alaska Range), 144;

ascents of- 143 Morishita, Midori, 258 Moro, Renato, 221, 299 Moro Rock (Sierra Nevada, California),

155 Morrow, Pat, 207, 209 “Mother Lode.” See Utah, Peak 7905. Mottet, Jorge, 114 Mountaineering, 8000-meter peaks: art..

14-15 Mountaineering, Solo: Aconcagua, 199;

Celestial Peak, 303; Cerro Terre, 205; Hidden Peak, 271; Huascarsn Sur, 189; Kusum Kangum, 224; Nanna Peak, 185; Norte, 205; TSUNP, 191

Mountaineering, Winter: Aconcagua, 200; Ama Dablam, 221; Annapuma, 242, 243; Annapuma Dakshin, 245; Bona, 149; Cerro Torre, 204-205; Chimney Rock, 153; Cho Oyu, 7-13, 235-36; Dhaulagiri, 246, 247; Dushanbe, 305-306; Everest, 224-25, 228-29; Gangapuma, 244; Gaurishankar, 237; Girth Pillar, 154; Iliamna, 147-48; Kangchenjunga, 215;

Kangtega, 223; Karyolung, 237; Kommunizma, 305; Korzhenevskoi, 306; Kumbhakama, 215-17; Makalu, 218-19; Manaslu, 240; Musdzhilga, 306; San Gabriel, 202; Tawoche, 221; Temple, 184; Whitney, 156

Mularz, Pawel, 290 Muller, Bernard, 288-89 Mhnchenbach, Hartmut, 204 Munday, Mount (Coast Mountains, British

Columbia), 181, 182 Muroi, Yumiko, 50-51 Musdzhilga (Pamirs, USSR), 306 Mustagh Ata (Pamirs, China), 304 Mustagh Tower (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 278

N

Naar, Ronald, 219 Naess, Ame, 225 Naimona’nyi. See Gurla Mandhata. Nakano, Yoshihisa, 237 Nakayma, Shigeki, 150 Nakra (Caucasus, USSR), 209 Nam, Ki-Chang, 250 Nam, Sang-Tae, 228 Namcha Barwa (Namcha Barwa Range,

China/India), altitude of, 209 Nanga Parbat (Himalaya Pakistan), 282,

285, 287-90 Nankervis, John, 236 Nanna Peak (Baffin Island), 185 Nassrani (Jordan), 306 National parks: Argentina, 197-99 Nemoto, Tohru, 279 Nepal, arts., 7-13, 16-19; 213-52 Nepal: “Peak 6417,” 217 Nepal Peak (Sikkim Himalaya), 217 Nevada, 160-65 New Diversions (Yosemite, California),

158 Newell, Daniel, 237 Newsom, Rob June, 144 Ngabong Terong (Karakoram Range,

India), 266 Ngojumba Kang (Nepal Himalaya), 234-35 Nilgiri North (Neoal Himalaval. 246 Nilgiri South (Nepal Himala;aj; 246 Norte (Patagonia), 205 North Dome (Sierra Nevada. California).

155 Northwest Territories, 185

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1986

350

Novak, Jifi, 247-49 Noxon, John Franklin, obif., 330 Nuestra Seiiora de las Nieves (Argentina),

200-201 Nun (Jammu and Kashmir), 258 Nupchu (Nepal Himalaya), 217 Nupchu. See also Nepal, “Peak 6417”;

Ohmi Kangri. Nyka, Jbzef, 189, 190, 194-95, 215,

218-19, 223, 256-57, 268, 269, 273, 289, 306

0

Oak Creek Canyon (Charleston Range, Nevada), 163

Obispo (Ecuador), I88 Oelz, Oswald, 299 Ogawayama (Japan), 48 Ogose, Yoshio, 259 Ogre Mountain (Coast Mountains, British

Columbia), I83 Oh, In-Hwan, 221, 225 Ohama, Kenji, 246 Ohmi Kangri (Nepal Himalaya), 217 Ohuchi, Michifumi, 211 Ojeda (Santa Marta, Sierra Nevada de,

Colombia), I13 Ojos del Salado (Chile), 20 1 Okada, Syuichi, 185 Oki, Masato, 259-61 Olca (Chile), I 15 Olek, Jacques, 7-13 Olevsky, Ron, 160-61, 171 Operation Everest II, art., 122-27 Orban, Pal Gbza, 240 Orientacmn (Chile), 202 Orton, James, 1 I1 Otreba, Waclaw, 234 Ouray (Colorado), 175 OyarzBn, Gaston, 196, 200, 203 Ozaki, Takashi, 290

P

Pabellon de la Laguna Verde (Argentina), 197

Pabell6n del Inca (Chile), 201 Pabil (Nepal Himalaya), 238 Pabon, Rosa, 187 Pachancoto (Cochas, Nevados de, Peru),

113 Paine Grande (Patagonia), 207 Paine Sud (Patagoma), art., 87-95 Pakistan, art.. 1-5; 266-93

INDEX

Palcaraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 190 Palmer, Ronald G., 242 Paloma (Chile), I I4 Palomani Tranca (Cordillera Apolobamba,

Peru), 195 Pamirs (China), 304 Pamirs (USSR), 305-306 Panejko, Wieslaw, 241 Pariacacca. See Tuyujuto. Park, Ji-Weon, 238 Park, Jong-Soo, 236 Park, Young-Bae, 228 Parot Tower (Staunings Alps, Greenland),

186 Parque Provincial Aconcagua. See National

parks. Argentina. Parque Provmcial Tupungato. See National

parks, Argentina. Parra, Luis A., 197-99 Passu (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 287 Passu II (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 287 Patagonia (Argentina), arts. 97-100, 101-9,

203-206 Patagonia (Chile), art., 87-95; 207 Patanonian Icecao (Pataeonia). 207 Pato: (Chile), 261 - Patterson Bluffs (Sierra Nevada,

California), 156 Pattullo, Mount (Coast Mountains, British

Columbia), 183 Paul, Jiban Knshna, 257 Paumier, Philippe, 244 Pawlikowski, Maciej, 7-13 Peck, Annie Smith, I I2 Pedrini, Marco, 205 Peer, Craig, art., 87-95; 155 Petia Blanca (Chile), 201 Penitentes, Corddn do 10s (Argentina), 114 Pera, Luciano, 206 Perdition Peak (Cascade Mountains,

Washington), 152 Perkins, Andrew, 257 Peru, art., 81-86; 189-95 Peters, Arthur King, 327-38 Petzoldt, Paul, 113 Philip Smith Mountains (Alaska), 148 Philip Smith Mountains; Peak 7000, 148;

Peak7365, 148;Peak 7400, 148;Peak 7670, 148; Peak 7800, 148; Peak 8045, 148

Pichincha (Ecuador), I I 1, 115 Pickering, W., 1 I2 Pier Giorgio (Patagonia), 206 Pietrasanta. Allan, 259

351

Pine Creek Canyon (Charleston Range, Nevada), I65

Pinnacle Peak (Jammu and Kashmir), 258 Pinnacles National Monument (California),

156-57 Pisco Oeste (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 191 Pissis (Argentina), 197 Plomo (Argentina), 199 Pobedy (Tien Shari,, USSR), art., 21-26 Pohlemus, Theodore, I14 Poincenot (Patagonia), 206 Pope, Douglas, 144 Porzak, Glenn E., 207-208 Power Dome (Sierra Nevada, California),

157 Powers, Hugh, I14 Prat, Marc, 258 Protection. See Equipment: Protection. PrunCs, Joaquim, 252 Prusik Peak (Cascade Mountains,

Washington), 154 Puca Punta (Cordillera de Potosi, Bolivia),

196 Pucaranra (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 190 Puchkov, Valery, 21-26 Pulak, Mazundar, 257 Pumiri (Chile), 201 Pumori (Nepal Himalaya), 232 Puppy Dome (Sierra Nevada. California),

159 Putana (Chile), I15 Putrin, Valet?, 305

Q

Quingarssuk (Greenland), 186

R

Rabicano II (Chile), 202 Raich, Norbert, 242 Rakaposhi (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),

282, 283 Rakaposhi East (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 285 Rakiot Peak (Himalaya, Pakistan), 290 Ramada (Argentina), 200 Rana, Bhagirath Narsingh, 244 Rana, Gaurav S. J. B., 217 Randall, Frances D., 333 Rangwala, Zuzer, 258 Ranrapalca (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 190 Rasac (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru), 194 Rattlesnake Range (Wyoming), 173

Razorback (Sierra Nevada, California), 159 Reason, Craig, 184-85 Rtbuffat, Gaston, obir., 327-28 Red Rock Canyon (Charleston Range,

Nevada), 161-65 Redoubt, Mount (Aleutian Range, Alaska),

147 Redoubt, Mount (Cascade Mountains,

Washington), 151 Redfem, Earl, 39-45 Redman, Earl, 149 Reid, Don, 157-60 Reina (Santa Marta, Sierra Nevada de,

Colombia), I I3 Reinhard, Johan, 197, 201 Renard, Tierry, 273-74 Renzler, Robert, 277 Research, Scientific: High altitude, effects

of, am., 122-27, 129-37; Mountain sickness, art., 132-35; Pulmonary edema, art., 129-31; Sleep, art., 135-36

Revelation Mountains (Alaska), art., 69-72 Rhino Horn (Utah), 169 Rimo (Karakoram Range, India), 263 Rimo III (Karakoram Range, India), 263 Rimo IV (Karakoram Range, India), 261,

263 Riso Patr6n (Argentina), 199 Risse, Steven C., 151, 172-73 Roach, Gerard A., 207-208, 209 Roach, Robert C., art., 129-37 Robinson, Roger, 333 Rocky Mountains (Canada), err., 73-79;

184-85 Rocky Mountains (Colorado), 174-75 Rogers, Susan, 3 17- 18 Rosario (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru),

191-93 Roskelley, John F. C., 214, 332-33 Rowell, Galen A., art., 97-100; 156 Rubens, Desmond, 209 Rudolf, Wlodzimierz, 190 Rudolph, William E., I15 Rundle, Mount (Rocky Mountains,

Canada), I84 Rurigallay (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru),

193 Russell, Mount (Sierra Nevada, California),

155 Sass, David, 226 “Salina” (Karakoram Range, India), 263 “Saigat” (Karakoram Range, India), 263 Saint Elias, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains,

Alaska), 149, 150 Saint Elias Mountains (Alaska), 149-50

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1986

352

Saint Elias Mountains (Yukon Territory), 175-79

Saipal (Nepal Himalaya), 252 Sajama (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 114 Sajovic, Peter, 312-13 Sakashita, Naoe, 220-21 Salfn (Argentina), 197 Saltoro Group (Karakoram Range, India),

266 Salvaterra, Ermanno, 204-205 San Gabriel (Chile), 202 San Jose (Chile), 115, 203 Sandhu, Balwant Singh, 211-13, 253-55 Sangay (Ecuador), 1 l-2 Santa Cruz (Cordillera Blanca. Peru). 191 Santa Marta, Sierra Nevada de (Colombia),

113, I14 Santiquin Canyon (Utah), 172 Saser Kangri II (Karakoram Range, India),

259-61 Satopanth (Garhwal Himalaya), 255 Satopanth West. See Garhwal, Peak 6504. Savenc, Franci, 205 Schauer, Robert, l-5 Scherrer, Marc, 259 Schmuck, Marcus, 299 Schoene, Robert B., art.. 129-37 Schoening, Peter K., 27-28 Scott, Douglas K., 282-85 Searle, Michael, 277-78 Seibert, Robert R., 139-42 Semenova Tienshanski (Tien Shari,, USSR),

304 Sentinel Range (Antarctica), 207-209 Sentinel Tower (Utah), I72 Seo, Jong-Bae, 237 Sequoia National Park (California), I57 Serei Porkush. See Karakoram Range

(Pakistan), Peak 6872. Seria Central (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru),

193 Seria Norte (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru),

193 Serl. Don, 179-81 Serra, Angel, 285-86 Serra (Coast Mountains, British Columbia),

181 Serra II (Coast Mountains, British

Columbia), I81 Serra II1 (Coast Mountains, British

Columbia), 18 I Serra IV (Coast Mountains, British

Columbia), I8 I Serra V (Coast Mountains, British

Columbia), I81

INDEX

Sevenmile Canyon (Utah), 171 Shaw, R., I13 Shayamvam (Garhwal Himalaya), 210 Sherna Peak (Cascade Mountains.

Washington), I54 Shimazu, Kazuyuki, 290 Shin, Ho-Jim, 251 Shinkai, Isao, 287 Shinn, Mount (Sentinel Range, Antarctica),

208 Shiota, Kosuke, 237 Shishapangma (Tibet), 299 Shivling (Garhwal Himalaya), 256-57 Sia Kangri (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),

269 Sierra Bella (Chile), 202 Sierra Nevada (California), 155-60 Sigayret, Henri, art., 14-15 Sigurd, Mount (Baffin Island), 185 Sikkim Himalaya, 209, 210, 211-15, 217,

273 Sikkim Himalaya: Peak 7385, 209 Simpson, Joseph, 191-94 Sin Nombre (Chile), 202 Singh, Hukam, 259 Singh, Jagit, 227 Siri, Wilham, I I4 Siula Grande (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru),

193-94 Skarja, Tone, 213-14 Ski mountaineering: Aconcagua, 200;

Cayambe, 188; Gasherbmm II, 273-74; Huascaran, 189; Ladakh-Kashmir, 259; San Jose, 203; Shishapangma, 299; Sia Kangri, 269; Tocllaraju, I89

Skok, Janez, 290 Skoog, Gordon R., 152, 169-71 Skoog, Lowell, 152 Smimov (Soviet climber), 21-26 Smoot, Brian, 172 Sole Estabelle, Carlos, 258 “Sondhi” (Karakoram Range, India), 263 Sonntag (Patagonia), 206 Sooth, K. S., 261 Sopicki, Karol, 238 Sorcerer (Utah), 168 Sorcerer’s Apprentice (Utah), I68 Sors, Antoni, 297 South America, 187-207 Spalding, Stephen, art., 69-72 Spearman Peak (Coast Mountains, British

Columbia), 182 Spender, Mount (Karakoram Range,

China), 302-303 Spickard, Mount (Cascade Mountains,

353

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1986

Washington), 15 1 Spirig, Toni, 282 Starrett, Randall McKnight, III, art., 21-26 Stately Pleasure Dome (Sierra Nevada,

Thalay Sagar (Garhwal Himalaya), 256 Thamserku (Nepal Himalaya), 223, 229 Thor, Mount (Baffin Island), art., 39-45

California), 159 Staunings Alps (Greenland), 186 Steinmann, Ruth, 269 Steinmar, Gunther, 258 Stewart, D., 112 Stuart, Mount (Cascade Mountains, Wash-

ington), 154 Stuart Range (Washington), 154 Studer, Wilfried, 238-39 Sugimoto, Tadao, 286 Sukkertoppen (Greenland), 186 Sumapaz (Cordillera Oriental, Colombia),

113 Sumeru Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 210 Sumner, William, 65-68 “Sundbrar” (Karakoram Range, India), 263 Susuki, Shomi, 150 Svobodnaya Koreya. See Free Korea Peak. Swain, Todd, 321-22 Swanson, Karl, 69-72 Swetvam (Garhwal Himalaya), 210

Thome, Lewis, 112 Tibet. 209. 234. 293-302 Tien Shan (USSR), arf., 21-26; 304-305 Tier, Geoffrey, 195 Tilitso (Nepal Himalaya), 246 Tinch Mir North (Hindu Kush, Pakistan),

292 Tirich Mir West IV (Hindu Kush,

Pakistan), 292 Tobita, Kazuo, 268 Tocllaraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 189,

190 Tolosa (Penitentes, Cord&r do los,

Argentina), 114 Torii, Shuichi, 250 Terre, Cerro (Patagonia), art., 104-9;

203-205, 206; ascem of, 203-204 Torrent (Greenland), 186 Totem Pole (Monument Valley, Arizona),

172 Trango Towers (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 278-79

T

Traverses: Caucasus, 209; Coast Mountains (British Columbia), 179-82; Huascaran, 190; Ladakh-Kashmir, 259; Pataeonian Icecap, 207; Saipal, 252; Stuart Range, 154

Tabin, Geoffrey C., 224 Tackle. Jack Edward. art.. 57-63 Takagi, Kenii, 256 Takaiori, Yoshimitsu, 278 Takeda. Nobuvuki. 241

Trimble, Phillip R., 210-11 Trim&hi Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 210 Triple Peak, Middle (Kichatna Mountains,

Alaska), 145

Talbott, John H., 113 Taleomey Tower (Coast Mountains, British

Columbia), 183

Triplets, The (Cascade Mountains, Washington), 154

Tsherim Kang (Chomolhari Range, Bhutan). 210

Tambe, Sadao, 211, 277 Tanikawa. Yukitoshi. 279 Tankha, Colonel, 256 Tata Sabaya (Chile), 201 Tauber, Hermann, 220 Tauewald. G. zum. 112

Tsoukias,‘Mike, 245 Tsurup (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 189, 191 Tucker, H., 112 Tukche (Nepal Himalaya), 250-51 Tungurahua (Cordillera Oriental, Ecuador),

111

Taugwaldkr, R., 1 i2 Tawoche (Nepal Himalava), 220, 221 Temple, Mount (Rocky Mountains,

Canada), 184

Tuolumne Meadows (Sierra Nevada, California), 159-60

Tummrrato (Argentina). 199

Tenaya Peak (Sierra Nevada, California), 160

Tupungato (Chyle), 202 Turtle Lake Walls (Colorado), 174 Tusk (Florence Range, British Columbia),

179 Tent Peak. See Kirat Chub. Terong Valley (Karakoram Range, India),

261-66; nomenclature of, 266 Tessier, Yves, 7-13 Thackray, John, 312

Tuyujuto (Cochas, Nevados de, Peru), 113 Tuzo, Mount (Rocky Mountains, Canada),

184 Twin, North (Rocky Mountains, Canada),

art., 73-79

354

U

Udall, Mark, 287-88 Uematsu, Mitsuo, 288 Ullman, James Ramsey, 112 Ullu-Kara-Tau (Caucasus, USSR), 209 Ullu-Tay-Chana (Caucasus, USSR), 209 Ulrich, Ronald J., 190 Ulugh Muztagh (Sinkiang, China), art.,

27-38; altitude of, 37-38 United States, 139-75 Untch, Steven, 191 Upton, W., 112 Urioste, Joanne, 161-65 Urus Oeste (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 190 Ushba North (Caucasus, USSR), 209 USSR, art., 21-26; 209, 304-306 Utah, 165-72 Utah: Peak 7905, 171

V

Vail], Edward E., 328-30 Valley of Fire State Park (Nevada), 160-61 Van Sprang, Gerard C., 292 Velvet Wall (Black Velvet Canvon,

Nevada), I63 Venables. Stephen, 261-66 Venezuela, 18’7 Vennum, Walter, 179 Veraguer, Jordi, 185-86 Vermeulen, Jim, 315-16 V&go (Mtrida, Sierra Nevada de,

Venezuela), 187 Vigouroux, Ivan, 202 Villarrica (Chile), 114 Vinson Massif (Sentinel Range,

Antarctica), 207-209; &rude of, 208 “Vug Tar.” See Kichatna Mountains, Peak

8055.

W

Wach, Danuta, 246 Waddington, Mount (Coast Mountains,

British Columbia), 18 1, 182 Waddinaton Range (Coast Mountains.

British Columbia), 179-82 Wadi Rum (Jordan), 306-307 Wang Zheng-Hua, 27-38 War Drum Peak (Coast Mountains, British

Columbia), 183-84 Washington, 151-54 Waterbury, G., 112 W$ns, Mount (Yosemite, California),

INDEX

Watters, Ron, 178-79 Webster, Edward, 171, 174 Weiland, John, 47-55 Weng, Peter, 274 Whale’s Back (Sierra Nevada, California),

159 Wheelwright, William, 115 Whiskey Peak (Charleston Range, Nevada),

163 White, Gene F., 286 White Sail. See Dharamsura. Whitesaddle Mountain (Coast Mountains,

British Columbia). 182 Whitney, Mount (Sierra Nevada,

California), 156 Whizz Dome, North (Sierra Nevada,

California), 159 Wiedman, Michael, 310-12 Wiessner, Fritz, 113 Wilford, Mark, 47-55, 175 Wilson, David, 97-100 Wilson, Robert A., 272 Wind River Range (Wyoming), 172-73 Wood, Sharon, 81-86 Wood, Walter A., 113 Wook, Heo, 207 Woolums, Scott, 244 Womer, Stefan, 290 Wrangell Mountains (Alaska), 149 Wrangell Mountains: Peak 7205, 149; Peak

8205, 149 Wtiermann, Peter, 255 Wymer, G., 112 Wyoming, 172-73, 175

X

X-Rock (Colorado), 174

Y

Yackulic, Charles F. (Fred), 154, 155 Yacuma Aguja (Cordillera Real, Bolivia),

196 Yagihara, Kuniaki, 210, 228, 242 Yaks Wall (Pinnacles National Monument,

California), 156 Yalung Kang (Sikkim Himalaya), 213-14 Yamada, Noboru, 240 Yamazaki. Junichi, 52 Yamazaki, Tomoyasa, 279 Yamazaki, Yuwa, 150

355

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1986

Yana Punta (Cordillera de Potosi, Bolivia), 196

Yanasinga (Cordillera Central, Peru), I14 Yantauri. See Rurigallay. Yasui, Yutaka, 299 Yasumura, Jun, 243 Yatlincasa (Cordillera de Potosi, Bolivia),

196 Yedhe Mountain (Rocky Mountains,

Canada), 184 Yermakov (Soviet climber), 2 l-26 Yerupajl (Cordillera Huayhuash, Pent),

114, 194 Yerupajd Norte (Cordillera Huayhuash,

Peru), 194 Yerupaja Sur (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru),

194 Ying, Dao-Shui, 234 Yosemite (Sierra Nevada, California),

157-58

Yoshida, Kenji, 268 Young, Steven, 178 Yucumani. See Candarave. Yukon Territory, 175-79 Yulong Shan (Yunnan Province, China),

303-304

Z

Zabaleta, Martin, 16-19 Zafren, Ken, 147, 149 Zanzi (Chile), 202 Zam (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 279 Zam II (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 279 Zawada, Andrzej, art., 7-13 Zenta Range (Argentina), 196-97 Zimmermann, Ralf, 184 Zwickl, Karl Robert, 258

356