INDE>. TO THE

ALPINE JO NAL

VoIs. 39 to 51927 to 195

Printed bySPOTTISWOODE, BALLANTYNE &: CO. LTD.

LONDON & COLCH~STE1954

PREF.AC 1

THE present volume carries the Index to t e"ALPI E JOURNALfromVolumes 39 to 58, covering the years 1927 to 195 .

The basis of the Index was the indices 0 the co ponent volumes,but brought into conformity with the In ex to olumes 16 to 38,published in 1929.

The pro}Josa} for a continuation of th conso dated Index wasput forward late in 1949 and continue to b urged until, inDecember 1950, Mr. D. 1!'. O. Dangar un ertook to make a start.Ultimately, the great bulk of the work fell 0 him nd proved to bemuch more arduous than had been env sa.ged, as the previousindexing of many of the volumes was so de ective at most of themhad to be re-done entirely.

The thanks of the Club are due to Mr. angar for his unsparingwork in bringing this task to a conclusion; to M . S. de V. Merri-man for help in the earlier stages; to Mr .. sanSferino for help inproof-reading; and to all others who hav co-op ated with themin the undertaking.

E.. HERBERT,President.

I

I

!

IlST OJ? ABB. I~VIA.C. = Alpine Club•

A.A.C. = American AlpineClub.

A.B.M.S.A.C. = Association ofBritish Membersof Swiss AlpineClub.

Aig. = AiguilIe.art. = article.asc. = ascent.

A.T.C. =. Air Training Corps.C.A.l!'. = Club Alpin J<'ran9ais.a.A.I. = Club Alpino Italiano.

cr. = crossed, crossing.D.A.V. = Deutscher Alpen

Verein.D.Oe.A.V. = Deutscher und

OcsterreicbischerAlpen Vercin.

dese. = descent;Di. = Diebel.

G.H.M. = Groupe de HauteMontagne.

gl. = glacier.ill. = illustration.

.C. = Mountain Club.t. = Mount, Mont.e. = Monte.

ts. = Mountains.N Z. = New ZCl~land.bit. = obituary.

k. = Peak.p rt. = portrait.

t. = Point.P a. = Punta.P, . = Pointe.

R.q.S. = Royal GeograpWcal

jSociety.

r v. = review.S.A C. = Schweizer Alpen

Club.S.M C. = Scottish

, Mountaineering, Club.r. = traverse, traversed.

U.M C. = UniversityMountaineeringClub.

v 1. = volume.

2

Aitchison, I. G. :rev. of British Ski Year Book, 1944,55 lI5The Complete Ski Ma.nual, 51 276obit. of H.W. Hoek, 58 403

Aitchison, P. M.: obit., 56 76Aitken, S.: death, 41 218, 259Akeley, Carl (naturalist): 54 357Akka (Lapland): ill., 50 249Abollal (Morocco): asc.,45 108, 113Ala Dag, expeditions to: 54203,235,5545,222

ill., 54 238-41, 55 48-53Alam Kuh (Persia) :

asc., 47 303, 49 245-6Alas~a (see also Special List) :

at OSphOl'icpressure on summits, 43 227bib.iography of articles on mountaineering

in,512201st ascs. in, dates and A. J. refs., 50 95glacier recession in, 52 285heights of mts in, 43 74 n.

Alaska Range: 47 17ill., 44 274

Alba~a: mts of, art. & ills., 42 55Albal.lOn: asc., 51 206AlbeJ:fuI, H.M. King (of Belghun) :

alpine career, 46 279death, 46 imemorial to & ill., 50 316me!Uorial service,·46·207obituary verse to, 46 207port. presented to A.C., 46 404poJt1;s.,43 380, 46 279

AlbCIjt, Pic (Chamonix): desc. by W. face,45406

Albigna gl.: ill., 39 317,46 63Alcantara, Mt (Canada): 1st asc., 42 70

ill., 42 72Alcazaba: ill., 40 41Alcove: 1st winter asc., 55 40

tr., 65 42Aldridge, E. A. :

obit. of G. W. Lloyd, 46 181death, 50 142, 184

Aletschhorn :asc.,47134

1st by S.E. face, 41 403, 42 16from N., 48172by the Hasler rib, 65 353

in winter, 54 28tr.,43 121,44 337, 492691st tr. of section of S.E. ridge, 51 148ill. from S (1929 route), 42 16

from Sparrhorn, 43 41Aletsch glacier: accidents, 43 188, 50 327Alexander, H.: his book: The Cairngorms,

40427Alexander, H.M. King (of Yugoslavia):

death, 46 404Alexander, R. F.: death, 51 341Alexander, Mt (Canada): ill., 39 56Algie, R. M.: obit. of H. F. Wright, 51 309Alja!, Fat,her: death, 39 332Allain, P.: his book: Alpiuisme et Com-

petition, 57 433

48 368

obit., 43 353

Alpine Club:address to:

Edward VIII, 48 iQueen Mary, 48 iiQueen Elizabeth II, 58 289Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother,

58290addresses by Presidents:

Morse,411Wilsoll, 44 1Withers, 47 1Strutt, 50 1Schuster, 53 1Young, 54 215Amery,561Longstaff, 57 281

American members, 39 169,41 237,53 72gift of ambulances, 52 298, 53 69, 389

Alpine Club dinners :39205 48 21940219 4915141258 5018442 161 51 173,32543 220 55 34144174 569745 198 57 124, 279, 44246 276 58 after 288, after 55347195

Alpine Club exhibitions-photographic:39 119, 205 48 145, 21940 146, 218 51 17341 169, 258 56 9742 161, 263 5738544 96,174 5838446156

Alpine Club exhibitions-piotures :. 39 294, 385 43 154, 219

40 362 45 132, 19741 379 47 130, 195

Alpine Journal:250th numbeT, 47149editorship, 49 271format & type, 48 179printing & publioation, 44 6,53 386, 54 109reduction in size, 53 69, 54 269

Alpine Club library, additioJlJl to:39 191, 369 49 141, 30240435 50 169, 35641 245, 446 51 165, 34942 149 52 159, 29443 206, 420 53 84, 182, 278, 40144 162, 379 54 89, 210, 331, 45345 184, 421 55 116,229, 337, 43746 245, 438 56 92, 199, 305, 41647 182, 392 67 121, 276, 438, 59448 210, 390 58 after 154 .

Alpine Club library, removal of, 51 136Alpine Club lunches: 53 87, 280Alpine Club membership, some statistios of,

67 100, 58 127Alpine Club obituary :

39 144, 328 42 119, 33640 177, 398 43 179, 38141 218, 418 44 131, 329

3

Alpine 0 b obitu ry:45 156 397 2 128, 28346 206 403 369, 169,264,,38647148 367 77,200,307,43748 179, 359 5 100,215,314,42549 121, 271 56 78. 184, 285, 40350 142 316 67 95, 255,417, 56651 136 325 58 126, 269, 406, 532

Alpine b Pensi n Fund:56 285 313, 4 ,57 102, 261, 422, 574,'58 iv .

Alpine 01 b Prem s:491 0,5010

ill., 50144-5,3.0-1Alpine 0 b-Que n Mary, visit of, 41 6Alpine C lb proc ings:

39 204 385 150, 30940217 456 0 183, 36341 257 450 1 172, 35242 160 374 ~2 167,29743 218 427 . 3 86, 183, 279, 40344 173, "383 4 94, 211, 333, 45545 196 428 5 lI8, 340, 44.046 274 452 696, 202, 307, 41847 194 401 7 123, 279, 441, 59648 218 403 i, vi

Alpine C b War emorial: &8136ill.,58 37

Alpine m ps, of A gidius Tsohudi: 46146Alpine M stioism, 51 284Alpine ritanis, 57 341Alpine U lift: 5~'257' 341, 564, 573 (see

also 47 47)Alpinism, III' C ngres International d' :

44 340Alpinism , IV' Co re., International d' :

45 403Alps (see lso Ita ' n Alps) :

new fi ntiers in 40 292East , 46 74, 0 82, 53 338Italian oommiss on on division of, 40 177A hyd graphio approaoh to the, 57 352,

581 ,330Seaso in the: annual summary:

1939: 52 138,

1948: 57 9~1949: 67 2581950: 581311951: &8270

Alpspitze: ill., 46 76-7Altels :

by N.E faoe, 154, 48 351.. ,43 17

N.E. face (18 4 & 1932 routes), 47 154N.E. face (19 6 route), 48 348-9

Altels gla 'er: 40 84Altin-Ma ar (Pam' ): ill., 51 36Ama Dri e (Him laya): ill., 48 2Am Bas . : ill., 265Amateurs and Gui es, mutual responsibility: ,

43323matter, ritz: t

oareer port., 163death, 404

I,

4 INDEX TO VOLUtES 39 ~ 58

Amedeo, Pic Luigi: ill S.1<;.face, 45 248 eroid :America: 14,000' pks in, 41 338· he Pauli, 40 360American Alpine Club: Handbook ofMolln. atoh ty 0,42293

taineering, 54206 n (N.' .): 5th MC., 49 94AmerioanAlpineJournal:rev.ofNo.l,41445 An , N. his book: Leslie Stephen, hisAmery, L. C. M. S. : hought nd Character in relation to his

, Offda.yson an Empire tour,' 40 108 ime, 68 19'A month in the Canadian Rockies,' 4232 An apurna'A note on the Bavarian Alps,' 47 344 at asc., 572,68155'A note on the Dachstein range,' 49 242 Iso Imol 11 as Morslriadi,68 256'A note on the Julian Alps,' 49 104 i l., 58 16'The Eastern limestone Alps,' SO 82 An Iapurna V: attempt & ill., 58 103, Mountain warfare,' 54 413 An n:note: climbs in the Canadian Rockies, 41 ietschh 11 (S.E. arete), 45 140

429 otes 011 effects duo to rarit.y of the airpoem: 'Sursum cor,' 50 278 when t aining [by O. K. Williamson},valedictory address: 56 1 48 137his books: Days of Fresh Air, 52 143 An erne, Co d': accident, 45 167

In the Rain and the Sun, 56 85 An aCs(N .• ): asc., 42 348rev. of: Son of the Mountains, 50 154 An evui, J n: death, 55 427

Je~n Antoine Carrel, 57 117 Ao ach Beg: iiI., 54 128Cliimbsin the Canadian Rockies, 58 145 Ao ach Mot: iiI.,54 128Eell Halve Eeeuw Nederland's Alpin- Ao ta, Val '.: place llames in, 52 131

lsme, 58 552 Ao kenet ( oggar): asc., 58 271obit. of: R. C. Gilson, 51 121 . Ap nnines: 55 105, 56 108

Lord Tweedsmuir, 52 122 Ap rer Frei er: ill., 41 290Josef Pollinger, 54 303 Ar de, Cim d': by S. faoll,43 362A. O. Wheeler, 55 205 Arat :C. R. Paravicini, 56.266 os.,48 1,53230E. L. Strutt, 58 396 ' oall's a k,' 51 41J. C. Smuts, 57 557 Arc , the (1 ashgar): 56227

Amery, Mt (Canada): i .,6623named, 40 199 Ar er, C.1st II$c.,41 429, 42 37 ' OlUecli bs in Korea,' 43 103m. from N.W., 42 34 r v. of Sc ambles in Japall and Formosa,

Amiguet, P.: his book: Teohniqne et 47 Hl9Poesie de la Montagne, 48 388 Ar ic: asp cts of mountaineering in the,

Amnyi Machin: 45 160, 55 320 5 182Arnone, Brecha de 1': tr. to Aig. du Triolet, Are izas alt , Collada de (Spain): 46 66

41 430 Arg ntiere, iguille d' :AlUpato: S.E. face, 1st direct asc., 68 135 a eidents: 1931: 43 407Amstutz, W. : 1934: 414

'The Punta Minuta from the North and a os.: bY~' face, 51321,58411other Corsioanascents,' 45142 1st by, .S.W. (du Jardin) arete, 55 108

his book: Ski.iug from A-Z, 61 161 t . 1st ove FMeheRousse, 55 281 .Anchorite (Canada): asc., 55 40 i1., 40 14 N. face (1939route), 51 322Andenmatten, Franz: correct spelling of, Arg ent, Fuo cia:

56 427 S slope, 4 26 n.Anderegg, Melohior: 1 t cr., 45 99

the story 'lch gehe nicht,' 53 81, 175,268 Arg ent, Piz asc., 43 26his association with Almer, 65 249 Ari ,Aiguill des: 1st asc. by N. face, 39 132port., 55 252 Ar ontall ( aucasus): 1st.asc. & tr., 48 115

Anderson, J. S.: obit. & port., 43 161 Ar ud. J.: eath, 51 148Andrews, A. W. : A and Ch let, Col: Blodig's asc. & dcsc.

, The Novitiate,' 54 33 0 N.E. sl e, 45 161his book: Selected Poems, 54 88 Ax andy, A.: his book: Terre de Suspicion,obit. of J. C. Morland, 52 277 3 189

O. K. Williamson,53 261 Am, Dr. P. death, 48179, 220J. B. Farmer, 54 310 Am Id, H. J L.: obit. & port., 41196M. K. Smith, 55 298 Aro a, Pigne~.d' :

Andromeda (Canada): b N. face 55429asc., 55 39 tr EAV., 5 399t.r., 56 43 Ars ndaux, obi: death, 43 407ill., 55 33 Art· on Raju (Andes): 45 42

I

_____.___._----------.------.-..l.-------------------

5

Arves, Aiguilles d' :some notes & memories, 40 12tr. of the three pIts., 41 408, 44 208S. aiguille: It note on, 41 367

accident: 1927: 39 344lll!C.,40 9, 402

from La Grave, 57 4181st nsc. by W. face, 44 301

ill., 40 18, 19,44 304. S. a.iguille,,S.W. face,40 9: E. face, 40 15, 41 368: W. face(1928 & 1932 routes), 44 303: three pks.from the E., 40 14

Arwa Valley: ill., Pk. 21,800', 43 302Ascherson, C. S.: obit., 55 298Ashanger An (Hindu Kush): cr., 48 124Ashby; R. C.: note: Earth tremors at

Pontresinn, 39 338Ashford, C. E.: obit. of R. C. Gilson, 51 124Asparagus group: ill., 39 231Aspiring, Mt (N.Z.):

lll!CS.,42 348, 4389, 93, 99,58217ilL, 43 100-1

Assam Himalava: art. & ill., 52 53Assekrar (Hoggar): asc., 58 271Assinihoine, Mt (Canada) :

asc., 42 70, 46 85tr., 58535

Astoria Valley: lIL, 55 32Astrid, H.M. Queen (of Belgium): death,

47367Asulkan gl. (Canada): retreat of, 44 266Atar Plll!S(Chitral): cr., 47 319Athabaska, Mt (Canada) :

asc.,55 68tr., 66 39, 44ill., 56 64

Athabaslm Valley: ill.,48 380Athos, Mt: aBC.,58 206Atlas Mts (Morocco): 40 221, 43 147, 46 96

ill., 40 231-3,43 147,45 96-117Aufdenblatten, Adolf: death, 54 315Auldjo, John :

aBC.of Mt Blanc, 55 122life & career, 58 459ros book, 58 463port., 58 459

Auras, Dj. (N. Africa): 1st cr., 45 149Auronzo Valley: ill., 52 1Ausangate (Peru): attempts, 58 135Austahottind :

aBc.,40171ill., 40 176

Austria: post-war impressions, 56 221Avalanches:

physical characteristics of snolV,41 88snowcra.ft &, 56 ]20 .on Kangchenjunga., 42 212in the Pazieltal, 39 171upper Grindelwald gl., in 1787,40275wind sla.h, 41 92on pk. in Arwa valley, 43 305near Panjtarni, 44 351in Scotland, 45 265in the Obersulztal, 47 322

BAOHJ\1NN, M.: death, 53 ]73Backho se, H.: death, 48 359, 404Bacone, Piz :

asc., 641st • by S. 'dge, 65 15 .

Badile. iz:acoid nts: 19 2: 49 68

19.7: 49 286ascs., 54 137

by . arl:\te, 42 342, 48 253, 50 321,521 9

by .E. fac ,49 286, 57 44:5,58 1311st 'nter, 0321

llano escape on, 40 184N. ar te: Me.. (soo above)

his ry,48 51KI oker's 0 inion of, 53 19

route on, va . us, 55 16S. bu tress: d so. by, 48 254struo by ligh ning on, 49 65, 55 18tr. N. S., 47 1 I)ill., 253,67448

frO! Val B dasca, 39 121fro Sciara ut, 48 252N. uttress, 49 65

Badilet, Piz :1st lll! .,41 37 ,45 195ill.,4 374-5

Badrina h Pks: ill., 43 299, 50 67Badrina h Rang : exploration of (Tilman &

Ship n), 47 6Bad Sw t glacio (Hindu Kush): 46 349Baffin av: art. & ill., 47 49Bagini ass (Hi~alaya): cr., 49 33Bagirat . (Him~',aya): ill., 51 80, 83Bagsha , T. ",.: his book: Two men in

the A tarctic, 2291 ,Bagwell .J.: obi., 56 75Bailey, .: ~

'The relll!ure of the Humble,' 50 189rev. 0 Alpes e France; 1. Savoie, 50 341

II I

------.---.----1-+---------

I

INDEX TO VOLUA ES 39 tJ 58

Ban , Les: I"N face:asc., 46 64, 46 613rd desc , 54 253

ill, 52 12N. face 1933 route), 46 364

Bar mcier ( indu Kush): 46 131Bar Itoli Pk. (Garhwal): asc., 56 293Bar erine L e: ill., 49 172Ba. onnechi : accident near, 43 188Bar sley, C. port., 48 332Ba tti, Pun : ill., 45 241Bar rd, J.. Q. :

, he use f the rope in rock climbing,'384

h' book: Climbing in Britain, 65 434re . of Gui e du Massif des Ecrius, 55 435

es Ai illes Rouges, 55 435d ath,56 90o it. & po ., 56 178

Club, Bar er, A. E :o it., 51 3 7, 52 132P rt.,51 3 7

Bar er boots: 45 295Bar] w, Mt ( nada):

1 asc., 79, 169ill ,,43 78

Bar es, G. S.: obit. & port., 58 71Ba , A.: eath, 39328,40 217Ba so, Pic del: asc. ofN.W. pk., 58 409Bar w, W.: obit. of A. Hackett, 65 89Bar ,M.: Q. of Mt Blanc, 47 369Bit , R. M. V.: death, 60 151Bart eet, A.. : obit. & port., 60 125Bart m,G .. : obit.ofW.R.Reade,55321B rdjusi ( ucasus): asc., 53 236B '1 Pass ( aucasus): 1st cr., 42 105B . tau (C ucasus): 1st asc., by S.W.

arte,4237B ka·auz· ashi (Caucasus): tr., 47 Ill)B t,A.:

ob t. of H. oos, 51 334d th, 58 2 9

Bat ,R. H.: his book: Five miles high,53180

Bat m Pk. (qaucasus): asc., 46 292Ba.n 1',P.: I.

, ngchen unga, 1929. The Bavarianttempt, 42 73

, IeFight rKartgchenjunga,1929,'42185angchen unga, 1931: the' secondavarian attempt,' 44 13e Ger an Sikkim expedition, 1936,'941

su mary 0 Nanga Parbat disaster, 1937,225

his books: Jm Kampf UUl den Himalaja,43 192m den antsch: der zweite DeutscheAngri auf den Kangchelldzollga,1931, 170

uf Kun faJlrt in Himalaja, 50 158ohi . of K. 'ien, 49 265aw ded 01 mpic Gold Medal, 44 344

Bailey, E. P.: his hook: Tectonic ellBays,mainly Alpine, 48 201

Bainbridge.Bell, F. 0.: obit. & 110rt.,40 365Baines, E.: death, 39 353Baker, G. P. :

• Crete (1925, 1926, 1927).' 40243, The High Atlas and Marrakech: a note,'

43 147'Mountaineering memories of the past,'

53229,331his hook: Mot1ntaineering memories ofthe

past, 58 282rev. of The Valley of Flowers, 50 338obit. of J. S. Anderson, 43 161

O. E. Shea, 43 345H. C. Baker, 47 132G. Yeld, 50 279H. Corravon, 51314

his 90th birthday, 55 316climbs with Alois Pollinger, 57 530elected hon. member of Alpine

55426obit. &; port., 58 391

Baker, 11I.C.: obit. & port., 47 132Baker, W. M. :

climbs with Alois Pollinger, 57 527obit., 47 352ports., 47 353, 57 626

Baker's Saddle (N.Z.): cr., 54 272, 275Bakewell, R.: travels in the Graians, 58 158Bakhtiari Mts (Persia) :

art. & ill., 46 351correspondence, etc., 47 400

BalbaJa (Himamya): asc., 58 188.Balfour, F. M.: death, 57 529Balfour, Lord: death, 55 103Balfour, Mt (Canada): aso., 46 84, 55 67Balfrin: asc., 58 30BalI, Cima di: tr., 53 354BalI, J.: travels in the Graians, 56 254Ball, W. A. R.: obit. of G. S. Provis,57 90Balmat, Jacques: ports., 41 1BaJmhom:

aso.,43 133by E. face, 49 273byN. face, 48 352ill., 43 U7

E. face (1937 route), 49 274N. face (1935 route), 48 352

Balmhom, Klein: asc., 43 133BaJtar VaJley (HinduKusl1) : ill.,46 134, 138Baltoro glacier peaks: ill., 51 70BaJzetto, Piz: from the W., 49 120Bandar Punch:

reconnaissance & attempts, 65 173, 56 246White Pk., 1st. asc., 58 249ill. summit, 55 182, 184

from S., 58 252from E., 58 253

Bankeidai, Mt (Korea): 43 105Bannie. Mt (N.Z.): 3rd asc., 41 313BailS, Les:

aso., 44 207, 52 11attempt, 52 2Il

6

7INDEX ']'0 VOLUME

Bavarian Alps: 47 344Bazuki Parbat (Himalaya): ill., 51 80-1, 83Bean, Dr.: ice-axe found, 39 153Beast of the Valais: 56292Beaufoy, M.: asc. of Mt Blano, 57 313Beaufoy, Mrs. M.: her MS. Journal, 40 261Beauman, E. B. :

, Short summary of the Kamet expedition,1931,' 43 306

'A orossing of the Coast Rangtl of BritishColumbia,' 47 75

, The Matterhorn couloir by night,' 52 97note: Pomagagnon, 49 273rev. of An Alpine Journey, 47 181

Switzerland and the English, 54 450Berge der Welt, II, 58 303On Rook and Ice, 56 303The Unknown Mountain, 56 412Alpes Vaudoises, 67 271

obit. of Lord David Douglas-Hamilton,54436

F. S. Smythe, &7232COUJ.ltA. de Suzannet, 58 113

Beaumont, Pte.: (Dent de Feuestrale) :E. face, deso., 40 391, 41 71ill., E, face, 41 7:J

Beaumont, R. I •. : death, 50 317Bechtold, F. :

• Nanga Parbat, 1938,' 51 70his books: Deutsche am Nanga Parbat:

der Angriff, 1934,47166Na.nga Pa-rbat Adventure, 47 390

obit. ofW. Merld, 47 136Beckey, F.: • New olimbs in the Alaska

Coast Range,' 66 139Booching, H. A.: obit. & port., 50 288Beerenberg (.TanMayon Island) :

1st aBC.,42 2422nd aso., 45 395, 46 391938 expedition to, 61 18ill., 46 39, 51 22-8

Beb Brakai Chok, Pk. (Hunza): 46 133Bel Alp: early expeditions from, 56 347Belay, the sna.p-link pulley: 68382Beloher, H. W.: obit., 58 267Belgrat-Unterbachhorn ridge; 46 220Bell. G. (Miss) :

'Lea Ecrins and Mont Pelvoux,' 39242'Dauphine and the AiguiIle Meridionale

d'Arves in 1899,' 40 3'Aiguilles des Drus and Lauteraltrhorn,'

40 234 ''Conoerning Mountains die Engel-

horner,' 41 21• Lyskamm and Monte Rosa.' 41 278letters of, reviewed, 39 357 .sundry olimbs of, 44 61-6memorial window to, 40 405

Bell, G. M.:, Mountain Inns,' &3237obit. & port., 56 173

Bell, J. A. H. :obit. of A. V. Valentine-Richards, 45348

T. H. Fitzpatrick, 53 380

Bell, J. H. B.: LIlis ok: A IL'rogressin Mountaineering,

137(w th other): British Hills and Moun-

ains,52 88Bell, M (Callad ): attempt, 47 298Bell PI . (N.Z.): 1st asc., 41 234Bell, .: his b ok: Mountains beneath the

Ho' n,5755Bellav' ta, Mt ( reenland): 1st aso., 51 110Bellavi ta Satte : ill., 43 284Belle E oile, Ai iIIe de la: 45 370

ill., 365 "Belle e Basti n: ill., 44 200-1Bellow, W.: .

'A tr verse a the Matterhorn,' 54 389note de Sa sure's chalet at Breuil,43

18obit. of G. R ,48 155obit. 54 72port. 54 75

Benede ti, E. :'An asoent Matterhorn by the

ggen ri ge,' 43 58, Ma terhorn lnthe South Face,' 44 69

Ben Gl aig: r" 53 360Ben N vis: asl" 44 202, 45 264, 56 31

ill., 260-1, 54 128-9Benne, J. J.: orrect spelling, 55 427Bennin on Pea (Canada):

1st c., 40 1 7atte pt, 55 4ill., 33

Benso C. E.: his book: MountaineeringVent res, 41 40

Benuz " F.: hi book: No Pionic on MountKen, a, 5843

Berang r, Aigui Ie de: aso.,52 14Bere, . M.:

'A PUsh aso t of the East face of MountSt nley, R wenzori,' 54 275

, Ru nzor!. Mounts Stanley and Speke,'55257

'Th explora' on of the Ruwenzori,' 58483Beres£, rd, S.: bit. of P. S. Whelan, 54 68Berg g ier (Ca ada): retreat of, 44 27~Berg. i Kamp um den: reviewed, 46 226Berg L ke: ill, 43 262, 44 270Berge or Welt 1947 reviewed, 56 303

note on the t five volumes, 582191951 reviewe ,58 429

Bergen Johann van: 43 180Bergsc runds: '11.,44206-7Berna ikiewic, B.: fatal acoident, 51 327.

534 ~Berne 0116r1&1 d: 44 52Mrs. Beaufo I's journey through (1787),

40261Ski t . (1905)~54 28

Bernet Peter: I

obit. 51 319 I

port. 51 318Berne .,G. F. : I

Obiit port.,!43 344

--~--,-----L1--------

2237book: Del' Sommerski, 47 171death, 46 217

I

INDEX TO VOLUM S 39 to 58, I

Biets hhorn: i

cro a on, 53 70E. Baltschi er) face, 42 236, 44 281E. pur,42 36E. idge, 42 237hei ht, of, 4 223N. r~te, 42 238

tained om tho W., 45 155S. co, 424

• hulz's a tempt, 58 183S.. al'ete, st asc., 44 317, 45 140Ste hen's c., 49 279tr. y N. ar te & E. spur, 49 268W. arete, wi tel' asc., 42 2:19W. face, asc , 44 325ill .. faco, 2 49, 53

& S.E. rete, 45 141routes arked, 42 52. 54

'. face, 4 236routes arked, 42 241

f om the " 42 238• & W. etes (1859 ,'-I; 1932 routes), 45153• arete,

Bilge i, G.: h'Biner Marie:Billni , A. M.

'A ote on t e Watch-type of Aneroid andis use,' 4 293

, W stem C ada in 1933,' 46 81'A onth in Lofoten,' 51 43rov of Roel .Mountains,57 104

Binni , R. B.• : death, 47 367, 48 218Bion al!8ay, A guille de:

ace dent, 40 70asc,5215

i 01'1'01', 2]9inter, 41 228

N. aoe: Is direot MO.,39 25, 41 2212 d direc aBO.,39 1413 d direct aso., 41 60

c. & ac dent, 42 356ill,52 16-1

f om La ournette, 39 27fi om Co1 e VOZlt, 39 28fi om Co1 Infranchissab1e, 39 141, 52

16. face, 3 31,32(1865 ;1926 routes), 41221-2

Bird, A.: dell, b, 44131, 174Bird, L. W.: obit. of J. Summermatter, 58

26Blsho 's MitrEj(Labrador): attempt & aso.,

46 6 I

Bisit n (Iran) ~ asc., 55 275Blaaf e1d (Lo~ten): asc., 51 47BIac urn, M (Canada): ill., 47 292-3Blacl Forest r t (Pamirs): 41 261

aso,41273Blae om, Mt (Canada) :

1st asc., 40f7asc, 47 294macl Pk. (Hi alaya): 1st aac., 49 48Blac cn, L.. : death, 49 271, 310

III

Bernina, Piz :accidents: 1930: 42 130

1933: 45 167

8

ascents :from Piz Morteratsch, 44 330from Piz Palii, 39 157N. arete, 48 62

1st winter, 42 125N.E. face, 43 388

history & routes, 44 132, 332S.E. arete, 44 330

from S., 44 135W. face, 42 331, 43 17,44 332,45 160winter, 53 137, 269

railwayi proposed, 42 341, 346winter tour of, 39 160ill., 43 287, 390

W. face (1930 route), 42 322, 43 320S. face, 43 321N.E. fnce, 43 390, (various routes), 44

133Berninascharte :

taken' en col,' 43 21 n.ill., 43 22

Berti, A.: his book: Parlano i Monti, 57105

Bertram, A.: his book: Pavements andPeltks, 46 236

Bel!8o,Lo: N. face, 1st dosc., 51316Betbartoli Himal: attempt, & ill., 68 52Betsho Pass (Caucasus): cr. 47 116, 49 25Bettega, Michele: death, 50 152Bezingi: ill.,41 168Bezingi glacier: ill., 48 112-13Bezingi Horseshoe:

lat tr., 43 400attempted tr., 49 80ill., 48 113

Bhagirathi (Himalaya) :N. pk., 1st aBC.,51 80ill., 51 80, 83

Bhyundar Pass (Garhwa1): cr., 43 303, 5060

Biafo-Khurdopin watershed: ill., 52 205Biafo Wall, west: ill., 52 200, 204Bianca, La Punta: ill., 48 154Bianoo, PiZ1.0 :

by W. buttress, 44 327ill., 4322

Bich, Mauriee: death, 48 183Bicknell, C. :

rev. of A Portrait of Michael Roberts,57424

obit. of Michael Roberts, 57 82Bicknell, P. :

'Skye,' 54 337his book: British Hills and Mountains,

56299Bicknell, R. P. :

fatal accident, 39 344obit., 39 303ports., 39 207,304

Bidean nam Blan: ill., 45 266Biersack, J.: death,49 127

INDEX TO VOLUM 39 to 9

Blackwell, E. J.: asc. in Wetterhorner, 58499

Blailde, T.: his book: Diary of a Seotchgardener at the French Court at the endof the eighteenth century, 44 152

& M.-G. Paccard, 4S 1Blaitiere, Alguille de :

I Couloir Spencer,' 1st asc., 40 410, 53 190by the Glacier Suspendu, 53 102by N.W. ridge, 58270N. pk.: from W., 48 346

asc., 52 216W. face, 1st asc., 58 131, 260ill., 52 216, 53 190

Blaitiere, Col de: 39 249Blake, M. L.: death, 42 119, 163Blake, S. B.: 'The Polish ascent of Nanda

Devi, East Peak, 1939,' 53 31Blakeney, T. S. :

, Whymper and Mummery,' 57 339I Observations on· early ascents of the

WetterhOmer,' 58 496note: Approach to Kailas, 55 316

A rival to Mount Everest, 55 320J!'. S.Smythe, 57 419Dr. John Hopkinson, 57 420New conquest of the Matterhorn, 57 669Sir Frederick Pollock, 58 127Statistics of A. C. membership, 58 127Youth on Mont Blanc, 58 635

letter from India, 53 394rev. of Do you go back dismayed? 57 263

The Breaking Strain, 57 437Jesuits go East, 58 282The Great Beast: the life of Aleister

Crowley, 58 423Nanda Devi: 3" Expedition Fran\.laisea

L'Himalaya, 58 429No Picnio on Mount Kenya, 58 430'Ti-Puss, 58 553

obit. of H. S. Yerechoyle, 44 296P. Montandon, 66 390Lord Desborough, 56 394N. L. Hood, 56 401J. J. Eberli, 57 87R. L. Langford-James, 67 89F. S. Smythe, 67 230C. A. Macdonald, 57 400C. A. Heurtley, 57 567B. M. Allen, 68 395E. Freeman, 58 397H. W. Belcher, 58 267E. G. Wells, 58 526

Blakiston, Mt (Canada): aso., 54 399Blanc, J. J. (Ie Greffier) :

'A great guide' (Meade's paper), 51 201port., 51 202

Blanc, Pierre: on the use of raquettes, 40 400Blanc, Mt (& Mt Blanc de Courmayeur) :

accidents: 1931: 434051934: 46 4161947: 561901949: 67249, 253Hamel's, 58 172

Blanc, Mt (& t Blanc de Courmayeur):Bre va l~aoe :

, he Bre va Face' (Graham Brown'spaper), 1 178

B enva ro te: ascs., 39 335, 40 192, 389,4212 ,43 362, 4S 235,406,47355,48 34 ,52218,229,53111,57459

1st asc., 4~ 126alleged 804 asc., 47 332desc.,5 16ute M:a.or: 1st asc., 40 372, 41 39

3rd asc. 49 276 .11th asc., 57 97other asr.,57259,58259,291

S ntinelle ouge route: 1st asc., 39 308,4068

2nd asc., 421213rd asCi 42 3434th asc. 44 330'a della era: 1st asc., 4S 368, 51 1952nd asc., 50 1463rd asc. 57 259other as s., 58 132, 259, 298

Bro 'Ilard ute: ascs., 39 160, 40 388,46377, 410irkbeck' attempt, 52 257r1y atte pt, 48 334celes's e ploration, 53 149urazzo's attempt, 52 261

I t desc., 1 220I ennOOy' project, 52 264

Inn minata route: ascs., 45 377, 62 18,5797, 60razzo's attempt, 52265

1 t asc., 6 1271 t desc., 0 389

irdtesto e's & Utterson-Ke!so's at-tempt, 351

'story, 5 134arahall' attempt, 53 144, 67 135

Pe terey I' ute: ascs., 39 150, 336, 40182, 38 ,401, 43 393, 44 322, 45 250,47 365, 48 181, 404, 52 139, 68 622celes's a tempt, 53 153

1 t asc., 1541 t tt'. fr m Mt Nolr d.e Peuterey, 46

409ennedy' project, 63 46ennOOy' & M:iddlemore's attempt, 5354

Va 'ous asc nts :teged ( 854) by Col du Midi route,47336uldjo's, 5 122, 58 460arry's, r. M., 47 369eaufoy's M., 57 313

the Pi are of Fresnay, 58 520hapman s, K. A., 48 142aland's, T., 45 163'Angev' e's, Mlle., 50 267centen y of, 50 327

e Sauss a's, 53 267rly Am rican, 47 126

I I

10 INDEX TO VOLUMtS 39 tol58

Blanc, Mt (& Mt Blanc de Courmayeur): Blan , Mt (& Mt Blanc de Coul'mayeur):Various ascents: ill., Route jor, 51 192-4,58303

1st., 41 125 ia della Pera, 51 195-9note'on, 53 267 de C urmayeul', Mt (see also Mtvon Gersdorf's narrative, 41 147 lanc) :

Fellows & Hawes, 43 312 e early attempts on, from the lunom-from Aiguilles Grises hut, 54 262, 55 inata bin' (Graham Brown's paper),_ u_~~~from Mt Blanc du Ta.cul, 41 53, 54 ac ident: 933: 45 411

133 pI' posed n w name, 39 337Kean's, E., 47 118 ill. 41 42, '14, 45 376MacGregor's& Shuldham's, 47121 renva ce,41 42Messer's, J., 50 331 iaw S.• from summit, 41 135Ordlnaire's, E., 57 501 Blan ,Mt g up:Salmond's, J. & C. F., 50 145 • h level ute, 51 329Smith's, Albert, &5128 ex loits in 1931),44 334tr. by N.W. & N.E. aretes, 45377 ntier co ,note on, 43 364

by N.W. face & N.E. arete, 45 379 hu sin, 41 20, 43 393, 53 388N.·S., & return, 48 343 m ps of, 178

unknown (1808),66 47,186,289 Blan de Seil n, Mt:via ColMaudit, 39 321 as ., 53 25winter, 41 228 R 'nette ri ge, tr., 45 400Woodley's, W., 43 308 Blan du Too l~Mt : .

Various attempts: 43125,53102 N.. face, st asc., 42314by Bourrit, 1784,57 204 nd asc., 47 140

dlila Beche, 1819, 67493 S.. face, 1 t asc. by E. couloir, 43 172de.Montgolfier,49 70 fr m Cold~ Diahle, 43 239early, 41 107-122 . ill. N.E. £ e (1929 route), 42 315hy four Englishmen, 1792,66409 .E. face (1930 route), 43 172by two Englishmen, 1814,57 197 . face ( 934 & 1929 routes), 47 140

Coleridge&, &5315 . Blan a, 00 . era (S. America): GermanDr. Bean's ioe·axe found, 39 153 e ition, 1932,45 34Lucebella Hare & the St. Gervais route, Blan he, Den :

57 462 • A cidents: 1929: 41 435Model of, 50144 1936: 48 366Paccard &, ~ 267 1948: 66 405Proprietary rights on, 65 426 E. ridge:Seven views of, &5121 ieresels at:Sau8Sure,Lord Palmerston &, 5483 bt as ., Anderson on, 67 531Without comment, 50 328 Bak ron, 43 162, 53 232Youth & age on, 41 396,44 333, 46 399, ascs., 80,54358

54 79, &8535 1st Br tish guideless, 55 282ill., 41 114,48 348, 53 190 rom 0 de Zillal:

Brenva Face, 39 309, 3ll, 40 68, 74, 375, ascs., 0392,42323,43 9, 5745543 329, 45 370 ~ In 1 28 & 1947,56212

routes 45 371,61 177,58302 N ridge:Brenva.ridge, 52 217,40 153 . cs., 58 132, 519from Colde Balme, 40 279 1st, 376, 43 276from Couvercle,41 98 2nd, 309Corridor, etc., 41 116 variatio by N.E. face & N. ridge, 40377with Bosses,41 117 N E. face: 1st asc., 44 337from Brevent, 41 126 N W. faceJonction, 41 127,42 182 1st asc., 147 155viewN.E. from summit, 41 134 1st asc. ~ Great Couloiron, 54 446showing original routes, 41 155 S. ridge, 5 100, 189, 68 477lower Ancien Passage, 42 182--3 • Bertol 0 Schilnbiihl,44 205Grand Plateau, etc., 42183 W. & E. ridges, 47 358S. face (1935routes), 47 357 W & S dges 54 255from Buet, 49 168 . ridge~:' ,from Coldes Montets, 50 224-5 1st deso. 57 532Innominata face, 57 127 Ist asc., 57 533Innominata arete (1919 & 1933 routes), w. tel' as .,49 127,66 295

45 377 ill , N. are ,40 377Sentinelle Rouge route, 40 64, 75 from th E., 40 377

! !. I

Blanohe, Dent:ill., N.E. face & N. ~te, 43 277

ViereJelsgrat, 54 358-9from Triftjoch, 58 328-9

Blanohe, Col de la Dent: note on, 55 322Blanchet, E. R. :

'The spare rope in theory and practice,'4163

'Aletschhorn and Furggengrat,,' 42 16, The E. face and S.E. arllte of the Zinal-

Rothorn,' 45 313note: Le Perron de Valloreine, 39 338

Acrobatism, 45 406his books: Hors des Chemins battus, 44

365Au Bout d'un Fil, 49 295

rev. of Alpes de Savoie, vol. 5, pt. 2, 51156

obit. of A. Supersaxo, 44 300C. Wilson, 60 122

obit., 54 194Blaven: ill., 45 265, 66 382Bled, Lake of: ill., 50 90Blooh, 0.:

A note on photographic exposures at highaltitudes,' 44 98

obit., 51 98Blodig, K.: asc. & desc. of N.E. slope of

Col Armand Charlet, 45 161Blodig's Alpine Calendar:

1932, rev., 43 4191933, rev., 44 377

Blomfie1d, J. E. E.: death,42136Bliimlisalphorn :

ascs., 43 132from Friinden hut, 51 101by N. face, 47 146by W. fa.ce, 60 138

S. faoe, history, 47 86ill. group, from N.W., 43 132

S. face, 47 86, (routes), 47 87N. face (1934 route), 47 145W. face (1937 route), 50 141N.W. face, 51 100

Bobba,G. :note on, 49 128memorial tablet unveiled, 49 280obit., 48 334port., 48 333

Bodll, J. E.: death, 48 206BoeR, J.: his book: S.E.S., 56 197Bogdo Ola (Tien Shan) :

attempt., 57 467ill., 57472-3

BogkhobllShi (Caucasus): ill.,4l279Bolivar, Pica (Venezuela) :

aBC., 52 74, 83, 85winter attempt, 58 135ill., 52 80, 84, 53 131

Bona, Mt (Alaska) :1st asC., 42 321, 43 69ill., 43 72-3

Bonacossa, Count A. :escape on Piz Badile, 40 184

in 1895,

alleys of Italy, 40 426Karakorum): ill., 39 231intere: asc., 48 60T.: early travels in Graians,

I I

INDEX '1'0 VOLUMjES 39 ~ 58. I

Br~; h;~~~jZ~::~~l and the, 57 208v rious as s.,43 13,5610,66 133

by Jose h Chamberlain, 45 168: the 1931 . face: ttempt (1911),3934 n.

ill, W. fae ,3934Klein T ftje,43 38-9from R ffelhom (1807, 1900, & 1931

routes,44 129Brei ind: as ., 58 225Bl-ei lauihor ,

N W. !ilOe,1st asc., 40 408, 41 208asc.,48 55

ill, 43 56N.W. fa e (1928 route), 41 209-10

(1936 route), 48 348-9Bre ta, Cim di, by N.W. ridge, 46 323Bre ta, Croz on di: asc., 46 323Bre ta grou : ill., 46 75, 323Brill ta, Gug di; see Campanile BassoBre va bivo ac, the old: 41 38Bre va, Col e la :

a cident: 1'934, 46 '419cr , 40 45, 8 345, 53 101

in 1 day 6316Bre va, Calo te de la: asc., 45 235Bre va, Col ela Calotte de Ill,: 1st cr., 43

33Bre va, 001 e Is. Fourche de la.: accident,

1 37,492 3Bre ent, the: Blailde's ascs., 45 23, 27Bre oort, Mi S', port., 51 260Bre ater, M (N.Z.): 1st recorded asc., 41

25Brie ,Cresta: 1st asc. from N., 43 361Bri ,J.J.:

o it. of A. Holmes, 43 342E. Gree wood, 47 349

o it., 56 8Bri ,W. A.:

o it., 50 1P rt., 60 1 9

Bri chi, L.: death, 47 370Bris ow, Mis L.: letters to her family, 53

30Bri sh Arcti Air Route Expedition: 44 177B' hMoun 'neeringCouncil :55111, 119,

187,66 ,185,308Sanding dvisory Committee, 54 232, 318,

334N tices iss ed, 56 78

Bri sh Ski ear Book, 1944: rev., 55 115Bri ah' Thr Thousanders ': 41 229Brit Ie, Glen: ill. (colour), 53 1Bro bent, • L. :

h r books Under the Italian Alps, 40426

AlpineBra d PeakBra hkogel,Bra kedon,

159Bro ken, Sp ctre of: 39 21, 42 30, 219,

2 1

12Bowen, H. C. :

obit. of J. J. Withers, 62 112C. W. Patchell, 54 191

Bower, L. C.: death, 53 73Bowman, E. N.: 'Matterhorn

ventures,' 44 69Bowyear, H. W. T.,

• The Ochs, or Klein Ficscherhorn,' 40 118death, 48 179, 403

Bracken, W. R.: his book: Ski.ing,49 139Bradby, E. H. F. :

• Some mountaineering experiences andconclusions,' 40 304

obit. of T. L. Kesteven, 52 117C. Wilson, 50 120

obit. & port., 66 270Bradley, M. G.: rev. of l!~ngelhoernerffthrer,

46436Bradley, M. H.: her book; Caravans and

Cannibals, 39 368Braies, lago de: ill., 54 148-9Bramston, J. T.: obit. & port., 43 159Branch, C. C.: obit., 43 341Brandjoch: 1i3 343Brant, R. W.: obit. & port., 46 377Brantschen, Josef: death, 47 344Brasca, L.: death, 41 425Brave, Mt (Labrador): 46 37BraWll.lld,Peter:. port., 43 344Brazeau, Mt (Ganada): ill., from N., 41 350Bregaglia, Val:

beauties of, 48 251flooding of, 40 185ill., 57 361

Bregaglia district :climbs in, 48 63, 251Finzi'a paper, 1i5 11

Bregeault, H. (& others): their book: Laohaine du Mont Blanc, 41 243

Breidhausen, Mt (Greenland): asc., 46 40Breithom Gemelli, the: 39 332Breithorn, Lauterbrunnen :

accident: 1931: 43 408by S.arete, 40 396by N. face, 44 324ill., 56 44-5

N. face (1932 route), 44 324Breithorn, Lotschentaler :

by N. face, 48 356ill., 43 56

N. face, 41 210, (1936 & 1897 routes)48 348-9

Breithorn, Zermatt :accidents: 1928: 40 423

1930: 421301931: 43 188

E. arete: nomenclature of 2nd pt. on, 39153

aso. by, 40 393E. pk. by E. arete, 47 358N. face: Klein Triftje: 42324,43 35, 388,

44 128, 53 2971st guideless asc., 44 128Triftjegrat: 44 127

it

Brocklebank, T. A. :note: Army Cadet Force Mountain

Course, 54 442rev. of Kingdom of Adventure: Everest,

57116First on ~he Rope, 57 263

Brodbeck, E.: his book: L'Alpinisme, 46241

Broke, H. G. :obit., 44 287port., 44 286

Bron, Ottone: death, 50 319Brook, C. H.: obit. & port., 51 306Brooke, F. R.: 'The Brellva Face, (1),' 58

291Brooke,' H. S. :

obit. of H. J. Heard, 43 343obit., 46 378port., 46 382

Brooke, W. G. S.: obit., 58 528Broome, Mt: asc., 40 109Brouillard, Aiguilles Rouges du :

ases., 43 173ill., 45 233

Brouillard, Mont:asc. via 001 Emile Rey, 48 387E. face, 1st asc., 44 307, 45 245ill., from Pic Eccles, 41 61

from l'Innominata (1932 route), 44 308Brown, J. W. :

rev. of SkifUhrer ffir die Silvretta.gruppeund die Rhaetikon, 44 162

obit., 50 298port., 50 297

Brown, M. B.: 'Jungfrau by the N.E.areta attained from the North,' 46 161

Brown, It. A.: obit., 55 306Brown, T. Graham:

, The first direct ascent of Mont Blanc deCourmayeur from the Brenva glacier,and other climbs,' 41 34

'A new ascent of Piz Bernina and otherclimbs in 1930,' 43 8

'The Alpine Club: 1920-1932,' 45 120'Col Maudit and other climbs,' 45 231'Mount Foraker, Alaska,' 4714,205, Two legends of Mont Blanc,' 47 332'Nanda DeYi. 1936: a note,' 48 311, The Brenva Face,' 51 178'The early attempts on Mont Blanc de

Courmayeur from the .Innominata basin'52 254, 53 46, 144

'The Nordend of Monte Rosa,' 53 281'A Note on the history of the Innominata

face of Mont Blanc de Cour~ayeur.'67 134

'Bourrit's attempt on Mt Blanc in 1784,'67 204

, Girdlestone and the Matterhorn accident,1865,' 57 369

note: The first ascent of Mont Blanc bythe Brenva route, 42 126

Height of the Great Gendarme on theAiguille Blanche de Peuterey, 42 128

13

of the Alpine Journal,

ber of the Appalaohian

B

I I

14 INDEX TO VOLU~ES 39 to 58

Bubis Khokh (Cauc~sus): asc.,48 116" B

M'ry, H'~': death, 42 119, 162

Buchauah, C.: oblt. of G. E. Mannermg, B k, D.. :56 264 ' Some flections on the education of the

Bucher, E.: his book: Beitrag zu den moun aineer and its bearing on acci-theoretischen Grundlagen des Lawinen- dents, 44 42verbaus, 57 112 I The T ur and Trient glaciers,' 44 257

Buch$tein group (Styria): 44 247 I Climbi g and ski-ing in the Elburz range,ill., 44 253 North Persia, 1931-2,' 45 334

Buck, Mrs.: death,56 184 'Climb" g in the Takht-i-Suleiman group,Buet, the: N. Pe ia,' 47 299

Esoher's acoident on, 46 216 'The G rman expedition in the ElburzN.ll:. face & S.E. arl.\te,supposed 1st asc., range N. Persia,' 49 245

47 205 'Some experiments in mountain tele-MO.,49173 photo raphy with infra·red and colour

Paccard's, 41 118, 47 197 film,' 224Biihler, H.: I The Alpine museum of the ' Bad w ther at Chamonix,' 57 159

D.A.V. at Munich,' 51 91 note: t e late Leon Payot, 50 318Buhler, P.: fatal accident, 46 362 his boo : The Delectable Mountains, &5Bujak, J. : 430, 79

'The Polish ascent of Nanda. Devi East rev. of e Va.lleysolthe Assassins,48 434Peak, 1939,' 53 31 SwissWinter, 57 118

, Carpathians and Tatra,' 54 360 tier, H. M.: & inscription for the Tyndallrev. of The Tatra Mountains, 53 399 memori l~64 440 ..

Ski Track on the Battlefield, 54452 tier, J.. M.: rev. of Leslie Stephen, hisBulgarian'mts: 46 301, 45 398 T~lOughand Charaoter in Relation to hisBuIl, W. S.: Tlme, 419

obit., 63 65 utson, . R. C.: 'Mountaineering in theport., 53 64. Antarct c,' 57 198

BuIlOOk,H. D.: letter, From the Apennines, iittla : by W. arl.\te,47 14755 105 i1ttlasse ucke: from the E., & ill., 41 214

l'luIlook,H. S. :. uxton, • F.: obit., 55 301obit. ofW. Weston, 52 274 uxton, ~. E.: his book: Travels and

A. C. Downer, 54 317 Reflecti ns,42 144Bulnes, Naranjo de (Spain) : yrd, P;:J~Ca.ucasus): aso., 47 111

asos., 46 73, 58 134 yron, id: on Mt Blano,&51331st, 39 289, 44 233

attem~,392~,4670 ~ill., 39 287,288,289,44 235,46 70 OOIA:BE ,PIZZI D1: tr., 48 65

Bulpett, W. H.: death,41 422 chat, dre: death, 64 316Bur Dalau (Kashmir): ill., 39 84 ~hat, F orentin: death, 52 138Burdsall, R. L.: his book (with A. B. doma, t (Canada): 1st asc., 42 72 .

Emmons): Menagainst the Clouds,48 199 aesar, . R. :Burgener, Alexander: Fi1hrerbuch, 48 403, obit. ofF. N. Trier, 58 396

64 21, 58 181,410 A. J. R. Runge, 58 398Burgener, Alois: man, nt du:

injured on Matterhorn, 53 71 Me., 39 149death,47196 1st fr m Envers de Blaitiere, 5&169port.,50 124 airney, r. M.:

Burgener, Christian: death, 5&225 obit., 5 315Burgener, Hans: death, 39 338 port., 5 314Burgstall, Hoher: tr., 41 300 airngor Mountains:Burlingham, C.: death,44 131, 174 . Mount warfare training in, 55 235Burnet, W. C.: death, 5369, 87 I A.'l'.C. raining in, 5&395Burr, A. : ill.,55 36-7, 55 396-7

note re Gertrude Bell's Sohreokhorn· aims: 357,64206Lauteraarhom tr., 41 224 ambrai, t (Canada): 1st asc., 43 169

obit., 57 91 ambridg Mountaineering: 1934, rev., 46correction re, 57 257 438

Burstspitzen: by S.E. ridge, 51 134 ameron, .: port., 56 375Burt$cher, G.: his book: Die Kampfe in amerozz , Pizzo:

den Felsen der Tofana, 50 161 MC.,5&17Burul Pass (Central Asia): cr., 45 79 tr. to • Soione,39 151Bury, C. K. Howard: obit. of A. F. R. ammai, iz: asc., 5&243

Wollaston, 42 306 mp, Mtl(Greenland): 44185

15

Campanile Alto:by W. areta, 40 169ill., 40 170,46323

Campanile Basso:accident: 1927: 39 340

1933: 45 408ascs., 45 402, 46 323

Campanula Zoysii: ill., 52 93Campbell, C.: death, 44 131, 174Campo, Como di :

by S.E. arete & face. 42 335by S.W. arete, 43 378ill.• 43 377

Canada: see Sp,ecial List.Canadian Cordillera: retreat of the ice in,

44 263Canali, Cima di: tr., 53 354Candler, C.: obit. & port., 43 346Candler, H. :

obit. of C. Candler, 43 346obit. & port., 50 129

Cantabria, Highlands of (Spain): art. & ill.,44 216

Canterbury Mountaineer, tIle: rev. of No. I,44 378

Ca.ntone, Cima: by N.E. arete, 43 3Mtr. with eima Castello, 48 64

Cappucino, Pizzo: tr., 43 15Carfrae, J. A.: obit. & port., 41 189Carlisle, A. D.: death, 41 218, 450Carmen, Pte. :

1st asc., 43 2331st by W. faoe, 39 156,43 236

Carnedd Dafydd: 'accident: 1938: 50 317ill., 53 120

Camiola: 6290Carn Mor Dearg: ill.• 45 261Caroline of Brunswick: her Swiss journey,

56411Carpathians & Tatra: 54 360Carpe, A.:

, The ascent of Mt Bona, Alaska,' 43 69• The conquest of Mt Fairweat,her,' 43

221death, 44 357obit. & port., 44 291

Carr, E.:obit. & port., 42 300

Carr, H. R. C. :note: combined Mountain Club meet, 39337 .his book (with others): Walker's guide to

Snowdon and Beddgelert. 57 275rev. of Hill Walking in Snowdonia,,58 425

The last Crevasse. 88 545Climbers' Guides, 58 546

Carr, R. C. C.: obit., 58 401Carr-Saunders, A. M.: 'An Alpine artist:

Francis Unwin,' 66 43Carrel. Jean·Antoine:

death, 50 320port., 50 318

Carrel, J. B.: death, 56 185

Carrel, Je n.Josep I: death, 56 81Carrel. Le nard: eath. 53 72Carrell. G N.:

'Alpine Club hotogrn.phio Exhibition,Deoe ber, 19 9,' 57 885

, The Ipine CI b Photographio Exhibi-tion, 951,' 58 384

rev. of e Magi oithe Dolomites. 68 418Carslake •• B. : •

'A trav rse of t e Tll.sohhorn and Dom,'4289

obit. of • H. F. Bradby, 56270G. P. Balter, 391

Carstensz New G ' ea):1st aso. 49 102, 77ill., 49 84-5

Casanna: aso., 56 00Casemate, Mt (Roo ies):

1st aso., 40 385ill., 40 84-5

Casse, G de:ascs., 196,54 54

in wi ter, 39 I 0E. arete 1st des ., 50 127 n.Grande otte tr , 40 114

Castagner' Antonideath, 320port., 318

Castello: let asc., 136Castello, ima di: 55 15Castello, oIle del Passo Lurani): 55 15Castelnuo 0, Pta..: asc., 39 150Casteret, .: his ook: Ten Years under

the Ea h, 51 34Castle, Mt (Canada : let asc., 40 196CastJegua ,Mt (C nada): asc., 41 429Castor:

Mc.,68 72by no agenari n,58 185by N. fuce, 50 09, 51 133, 326

deso. by W. face 43 14ill., N. ti oe (193 route), 50302

Castor (N .. ): 1st so., 41 235Castor & ollux (G eenland): asc. of one of

them, 201Cathkin P • (Natal :

attempt 39 327history, 897ill., W. oe, 40 3 7

Cats, olim s by : 134, 67 569Cauoasus see Spe ial !.ist): Summary of

1935 ipeditio • 47 368ill., Cen al Rang , 47 112

Cayley. A.: his att mpt on Dom, 58 409Cedarberg n group S. Afrioa): 64 315Cengalo. P Z :

aso.,5438ofE. k.,551

N. face: Klucke 's stipulation re, 50 3362nd a c., 41 22

ill., fro Piz Bad e, 39 119Cenis, Mt ( ass):

model 01 & ill., ~ 334-5use of sl,dges on, I 53 59

I

T---------------.---,-+--t-'----------

',f

16

Centre Pk. (Canada): 1st asc., 43 170Cerredo, Torre de (Spain): 39288

asc., 46 67ill., 39 288-9, 46 68

Cerro Morado (Peru): aso., 51 327Cevedale, Mte: tr., 53 351Chabod, R.:

'Grandes Jorasses, N. face. Seoondasoent,' 48 75

his book: (with G. Gervasutti): Alpin-ismo, 47386

Chachani (Peru): W. face, 1st asc., 58 135Chamberlain, Joseph: in the Alps, 45 157Ohambers, H. C.: obit., 58 526Chambeyron, Aiguille de:

1st aso. by N. & N.W. faces, 39 129Tour Coolidge, 1st asc., 44 140ill., N. face, 39 130-1

Tour Coolidge (1931 route), 44 141Chamois: in New Zealand, 41305Chamonix:

early visitors to, 45 17Mrs. Beaufoy's journey to, 1787, 40 261the Englishman at, 51 148A first visit to, 52 225in 1948, 67 159

Chamonix AigniIles :ill., 50 226, 49 8

Champagne Castle (Drakensberg) :. aso. near,39317

Champara (Peru): attempt, 45 37Chananian Sankar (Himalaya): aSc. & ill.,

54168-9Chandar Parbat: 1st lisco& ill., 51 80-1Changabang: ill., 49 32-3Changtse: attempt,4810Chapman, K. A.: asc. of Mt Blanc, 48 142Chapman, F. Spencer:

• Chomolhari,' 49 203•Travels in Japanese-occupied Malaya,'

5736his hook: Helvellyn to Himalaya, 53 75Awarded Lawrence Memorial Medal of

Royal Central Asian Society, 67 566Chapursan valley (Chitral): 48 298Chapiitschin, II: ski asc., 43 287, 51 148

asc.,4315Chardonnet, Aiguille de :

ascs: hy N.E. arete,44 258by N.E. face, 41 4121st by S. face, 40 164

tr., 54 20ill., 40 164, 44 257

Charlet, Armand:acoidents, 40 422, 42 337, 53 H2recovery, 43 184Busk's note on, 65 108his book: Vocation Alpine, 57575port., 52225

Charlet, Pte Georges: iII., 45 269 (see 464(3)

Charlton, Mt (Canada) :1st a8O.,40 382, 41 345ill., 41 351, 42 35

'

:armoz, 'guille des Grands:.arly his ory. 39 250, 40 181, 49 134, 311omene! ture, 63 225

io.,47 67i 1st by N. face, 43 370: 1st by N.W. ridge, 58 131IN.face, ttempt,39 149I~r.,48 2 ,53 188: Cha oz-Grepon, 63 14

to Aig ille du Plan, 52 139, 58 132with repon & Blaitiere, 41 411

ill., 39 2 0N. fao (1931 route), 43 370, 50 227

C armoz, iguille des. Petits : asc.,41 430,47266, 832

C assefore , Dame de: aso., 64 17C asseurs, Co1des: CI'., 47 150C aubert, te: 1st asc., 43 235C aukamb :

reconnotred, 61 82acoident 52 47ill., 52 4

C ella.goo~{Himalaya): asc., 52 137C enoz, A phonse: death, 56 295C essex, : his book: I..esAlpes Vaudoises,

67 577C etin (Sh rpa porter) :

death,4 213obit., 313port.,4 310

C evalier, P.: death, 54 437C eville, : 47 202C 'antar acier (Chitral): 47 101

ill., 47 1 0C 'chibu, .I.H. Prince:

• Eight o.ys in the Japanese Alps,' 41 8elected on. member of Alpine Club, 40 179re-elect hon. member of Alpine Club, 68, 406

Cbilko, M (Canada): 1st asc., 47 289C~itina. ri er (Alaska): ill., panorama .from

valle I' 39 22itra.l :Some G clers of Upper, 47 98Mts. of .W., 48 302iIl.,47 69omiom :2nd asc , 55427, 56 340ill.,56 0-2omolha i: 1st asc., & ilL, 49 203

homo L nzo: ilL,.43 3hong Kl dan glacier (Karakorum) : burst-ing of, ill., 44 237

hongra ks: ill.,44 199ho Oyu:, recolIDaissance, 58 450horley, . S. T. (Lord) :: note: oad pollcy in the Lake District,• 611 6I obit. of L. Pilkington, 53 256

G. R Speaker, 54 74A.. Wakefield, 57 408

I port., 377Ohoten N 'ma La: cr., 48 14Ghuosen, t (Formosa): aSc., 46 338

\ I

17I

INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 ~o58I

Alpine climbs, 61 Clubs: :Cataluny , C. E. e: jubilee, 39 151East Mri an Mon tain: foundation, 43 391German- ustrian amalgamation with

OE .. & OE.. K., 43 185change of name 50 144

Hellenic pine: oundation, 40 107, 191growth of, 47 3 2

HimaIa.y n: for tion, 40 192, 410, 41 230,5012

amalga lation ith Mountain Club ofIndi ,41232

exhibit on : .19' 0: 43 158India, M untain' lub of: foundation, 39

341amalga ation lith Hima.layan Club,

4122Italian ine: c ange of name, 50 144Japanese lpine: 5th anniversary, 43 219London niversit Mountaineering: form-

ation, 316Nederlan sche.Al n: 25th anniversary,

391 250th a niversar ,58 533

New Zea d Alp' e: jubilee, 53 89Norsk . deklub: 25th anniversary, 46 429Oxford pine: £ rmation, 46 218Oxford U iversity Mountaineering: meets:

1926: 91471928: 12191933: 5399with neva C.

Ruoksao Club: h anniversary, 58 533Scottish oun eering: jubilee, 535South 'oa, Mo ntain Club of: golden

jubi! e, 53 89 390develo ment, 373

Swiss Al ine: 75 h anniversary, 50 331Swedish oun . eering Clubs: 41 419West Al n: fo ation, 50 325Yorkshir Ramb rs: 60th anniversary,

68 533Coast Rang (Britis Columbia):

retreat 0 glaoiers, 44 274crossed, 775climbs in 47288(Alaska) cHmbs n, 118 139

Coaz hut~... , 39 I 5co,bb, E .• :' Pre, ude to the conquest of

Tirich' ',' 58 4Cockburn, . :

obit.,48 56port., 48 60 I

Coda, Pta.· 1st asc., 40 175Coddington E.: 'A Hydrographio approach

to the Al s,' 67 3 2,58 16,330Codera, Va : ill., 252Col Nudo: asc., 56 62Coleman, A P.:

awarded ictoria edal of R H So, 44 141obit. & p rt., 51 2 3

Coleridge, .:his book Some d Sundry, 43 419obit. of J~ A. Car ae, 41 189

,

Churchill, Sir Winston:130,52143

Cima Tosa: from the N., 42 1I5Cimonega, Forcella: visited, 58 524Cinque Fratri (Corsica): aso., 64 352

tr.,45143ilL,45 161

Cinque Torri: asc., 54 1I8Cinto, Mte, group (Corsioa): 40 172 .•Civetta: by Solleder route, 58 132Claoh Ghlas: ill., 45 267, 54 344Clapham, J. H. :

, How it all bega.n,' 54 1rev. of Norway, the Northern Playground,

53 177obit. & ·port., 66 419

Clappadorie : reaohed from Foroa deiDistElis,44 78

Claret-Tournier, Michel: death, 62 284Clark, A. J. :

obit., 63 164port., 53 162

Clark, R.:his books: The Splendid Hills, 57 108

The Early Alpine Guides, 67 425Clark, W. 1.: obit. & port., 45 148Clarke, A. E. :

obit. of E. H. Stevens, 55 299obit. & port., 57 87

Clarke, L. W.:• The Vagaries of Memory,' 54 IIobit. of A. E. Barker, 61 307

Clarke, M. N. :obit. of J. Bagwell, 58 75

A. G. Mathews, 57 240Clarke, Mt (N.Z.): 2nd aso., 44 142Classification of mountain climbs: 42 344,

43 181, 6S 371, 57 97Clayton, J. M.: obit., 50 294Cleaver, the (Canada) : Isttr. to Jumbo, 40 384Cline, Mt (Canada): 3963Clochetons, Les.(N. Mrica): aso., 45 1I3Clogwyn-d'ur-Arddu (Wales) :

W. buttress, 46 123, 63 121-2E. buttress, 83 121Piggott's route, 63 124

Cloudmaker (Canada): ill., 56 356Cloud Pk. (Karakorum): ill., 58 154Clubs:

American Alpine: distress signal, 60 14750th anniversary, 58 53?Handbook of Mountaineering, 64 206

Andino Bolivano: formation, 62 142Appalachian Mountain: jubilee, 39 151

75th anniversary, 68 136 .Austrian Alpine: jubilee, 41 224

branoh of D.A.V., 50 32560th anniversary, 51 147reconst.ituted, 6S 426

Belgian Alpine: jubilee, 46 212Canadian Alpine; distress signal, 61 148Cambridge University Mountaineering

meet: 1926: 39 148Carlisle Mountaineering: formation, 57101

\I

Alps,

the Kashmir

18Coleridge, S. T. :Colgrove, J. B.:

obit., 43 340port., 43 338

Colijn, A. H. :, New Guinea: ascent of Carstensz Peak,'

49102• The Carstensz massif, 1936,' 49 177his book: Naar de eeuwige Sneeuw van

tropisch Nederland, 50 157death, 56 78

College Nationale d'Alpinisme et de Ski, 56187

Collet, L. W.: his book: The Structure ofthe Alps, 40 210

Collie, J. N. :obit. of C. E. Fay, 44 116

C. B. Phillip, 45 146J. Mackenzie, 46 198

ohit. & port., 54 59Collie, Mt (Canada): asc., 39 70Collier, Mt (Canada): asc., 55 69Collin, T.: death, 43 381, 428Collingwood, W. G. :

obit., 45 150port., 4li 147

Collins, G. L.: obit., 49 264Collon, Col: cr., 43 116, 64 11Collon, Mt : .

asc., 53 306tr., 45 399

Colombia, mta of: 51149, 329,52243, 53270insect life, &6360

Columbia, Mt: 1st winter asc., 65 39Columbia Group: 48 290Columbia icefie1d: 56 290Columna (Venezuela):

S. pk., 1st asc., 52 133, 63 131ill., 6281, 84, 63 130-1

Combatant, Mt (Canada) :1st asc., 47 294ill., 47 292-3

Comber, H. C.: death,44 131,174Combin, Grand:

asc.,6410by S. face & S. arete, 43 372by W. face, 45 381

ill., S. face & ridge (1931 route), 43 372Commander, Mt (Canada): tr. to the Cleaver,

40 3&4Compass, the: a warning to photographers,

51142Compton, E. T.: memorial hut ereoted, 40400Compton, W. C.:

obit. of A. V. Valentine·Riohards, 45 346obit. & port., 48 161

Conoha, Pico la (Venezuela) :1st aso., 52 86ill.,63 131

Condoriri (Andes): 3rd aac., 58 135Confederation, Mt (Canada): 48 292

ill., 48 380-1Connaught, Duke of: climbs in the Alps,

1868,57221

iI'T----·--------------------~--------- ---------

19

Cornier, Grand:by E. arete, 39 323ill., from E., 39 323, 43 116

Corning, H. K. ;80th birt.hds,y, 53 72obit. & port., 68 393

Coming, U. (Miss):• South Tyrol or thereabouts,' 46 320• In the shadow of Piz Badile,' 48.251note: Hellenic Alpine Club, 47 372

Cornish, T,: death, 48 359,404Coronet Pk. (Canada): 1st asc., 43 260Coronet Pass: 1st ski orossing, 65 35Coropuno. (Peru): S.W. pIt., 1st direct aso.,

68135Correvon, H.: obit. & port., 51 314Corry, R.: obit. & port., 53 158Corsica: see Special ListCorti, A.:

I Fuorcla Scerscen·Bernina,' 44 103notes for Aima Maquignaz's obit., 51 131obit. of G. Roy, 48 149

G. Bobba, 48 334Corvatsch, Piz. :

accident, 47 151ski asc., 51 148

Coryat: his ea.rly travels in the Alps, 5651

Cosson, C.: his book: (with H. Ha.yden)Sport and Travel in the Highlands ofTibet, 40 205

Cost of a Journey (in 1888): 64 205Coste, J.:

his books: Mes quatres premi~res annoosde Montagne, 39 361

Derni~rea ca.mpagnea, 40 427Coste Rouge, Col de III,: accident, 56 190Cotopaxi: asc., 50 313

history, 50 314ill., 50 314

Courma.yeur: a winter's day at, 50 228in 1948, 67 26

Courtauld, S. L. :• The first ascent of the Innommata face of

Mont Blanc, 1919,' 57 127Courtes, Lea t

from gl. de Tlllefre, 39 311, 40 76by N. face, 62 139tr. from Co1des Cristaux, 51 321,53 102ill., 51 322

Courtney, H. G.: death, 56285Couttet, J.-M.: 57 299, 568Couvercle: ill., Sir J. Herschel's drawing of,

57302Cowell, J. J.: his early travels in the

Graians, 56 258 .Cox, A. D, M. :

• Rook-climbing in North Wales,' 53 115rev. of Mounta.ins a.nd Men, 66194obit. of H. E. Kretschmer, 56 181

Cox, Maj.-Gen. Sir P. Z.: obit., 49 117Cozens, J. R., artist: 56 44CrOOle Mountain (Tasmania): asc. & ill.,

54149

I

INDEX TO VOLUMES 391 to 58. I

Cram, A. :r(,.: • Th~ snap-link pulley belay,'58 382 i

Crase, W. ~.; dell. h, 58 130Crawford, . G, :

• Mount Robson nd other climbs in theCan . n Roc 'es,' 43 258

Everest iary, 4 HIrev, of Climba 's Guide to the interior

ran es of Br flishColumbia, 50 164This y Voya e, 57 591

Crete: ex ditions in, & ill., 40 243Crettez, urice ;

his cUm ing care r, 58 304ports., 304-5.

Crevasse; ill., 39 1, 56 122Crevasse r scue; ethods & ill., 61 335

on Kalt asser gl, 40 311on Hoh atten g " 54 317

Crichton· 'ller, C. obit., 64 199Crillon, M (N. A rica) ;

attemp 4S 135Ist asc., q 413ill.,4S 35

Cristallo, te.: ill, 52 5Crocodile, Dent du: by E. ridge, 58 522Croda do. ago; t ., 54 119Crossman A.: de th, 40 177, 456Crou)!:,L rent:

obit.,5 128ports., 230-1

Croux, Ai 'Ie J ph: tr., 4S 245Crowley, leister biography of reviewed,

58423Crowsnes Mounta (Canada): asc., 64 400Croz, Mic el; me orial to, 47 368Crozier, ,: her ook (editor): Beyond the

South n Lakes 58 277Crozier, . & M'f': • Mt McKinley from

the air}44 275Currant, ."' (Miss): death, 48 366, 50 143Cyprns: 57192, 45,58207Czechosl akia: . 1947, & ill., 66236

,i '

DAOBL:~st asc. y N. face, 43 394, 44 251Dachstei :

aso., & 345Mcide t, 50 33range, 9 242routes p, 50 8 -8S. face history, 49 244

asc., 60 88ill., S. ace, 49 3

Dagelet, t (N. erica): ill.,4S 138Dahinde ,J.: hi~ book: The Art of Ski-ing,

40428 IDaihase zan Pk. Formosa): 46 333Dainelli, G.: s book: Buddhists and

glacie of Wes rn Tibet, 46 224DainellifPta. (Ca casus): 1st asc., 47 111 'Daintar laciers ( indu Kush): 46 138Dalai L a, H .. the: death, 46 217Dalloz, .: his book: Haute Montagne,

43 41~ I

I!

---------H-~.-.----1

20 INDEX TO VOLU~ES 39 tf 58

Dames Anglaises: Do.'id's DO~ (N.Z.) :La Vierge: asc., 40 403 3 asc., 3 166, 274Pointe boree des: asc.,41 410 il ., E. rid ,48 285asc. of the four pks., 52 139 Da idson, J M.:Breche Centrale des: from Freanay side, 0 it. of R Lamb, 40 159

40 182 0 it. & po t., 57 404ill., 40 65 Do. idson, . E.: 55 395

Freanay face (routes), 44 321, 45 240, S vereio of 'A famous Alpine story,'5732 6382,28

Dampier, Mt (N.Z.) : D.. V. Mu um, Munich: art. & ills., 51 91attempts, 45 308, 48 188, 285 Do. son, J .. : death,42 163,3371st aBC"48 284 Do. son ran (Canada): ill., 54 154-52nd.,50 140 de goatlni, A. M.: his book: Ande Pata·1st MC.by N.E. arete, 57 538 g niehe, 5 587ill., 4'1 314, 48 284-5 de micia, .: port., 51 129

Dangar, D. F. 0.: de eaucW V.: death, 41 425,437'Chriatian Almer and MelchiorAnderegg,' de eer, G.. :

65 249 ' uzzles,' 55 405, Early expeditions from Bel Alp,' 58 347 'ibbon's ppreciation ofmounto.illS,'5757'The Livret de guide of Joseph Vianin,' 'ont St k,' 57 181

87 61 ho w re the two Englishmen who'The Fnhrerbueh of Andreaa Jaun,' 57 219 attemp cd Mont Blanc in 1814? '57197, The Fnhrerbueh of Johann Jaun,' 57 318 '.-B. d . Saussure's election into the'The Fnhrerbuch of Alois Pollinger,' Royal ociety,' 57 313, 568

57 524 ' ir Henr de 10. Beehe's attempt on Mont'The Fnhrerbueh of Alexa,nderBurgener,' Bmnc, 819,' 5749358181 ' breoht von Haller's Alpine journeys,'

'Observations on early as<lenta of the liB 96WetterhOrner,' 58496 n te: fro tispieee to vol. 57, 5795

note: the first ascent ofMonteRosa, 65224 s books: Early Travellers in the Alps,Col de 10. Dent Blanche, 55 322 43 19an avalanche on the Dom, 57 421 Alps an Men, 45 179,424Luc Meynet and the Matterhorn, 58 271 Escape 0 Switzerland, 55 227an early a.ttempt on the Do~, liB 410 Travell s in Switzerl&nd,57 265the Fnhrerbuch of Alexander Burgener, Speaki of Switzerland, 58 426

58 410 v. of Sc olar Mountaineers, 57 581'Scrambles amongst the Alps,' 58535 A chac n so.Montagne, 67 264

rev. of The Early Alpine Guides, 57 425 a ,pointed Director, Na.tural HistoryHochgebirgsfiihrer durch die Berner Muse, 57 417

Alpen, 58 281 a; arded on. degree at Lausanne Univer-Guide Vallot, La Chame du Mont Blanc, sity, 57573

Vol. ii, 58 281 De elak, M. M.:Do. Rifugio a Rifugio, Alpi Pennine, 'pik, by the N.W. face,' 44100

58 281 ' n the J lian Alps: from the Forca deid'Angeville, Mlle: 63 174,54 56 Disteis 0 the Cl&ppadorie,'44 78

centenary of her asc. of Mt Blanc, 50 267, 'he S.E arete of the Cima dei Preti,'327' 48 313

D'Archiac: 1st ase. by S. arete & tr., 58 217 'riglav orth face in winter,' 51243d'Arcis, E.: his book: En Montagne: de riiyn, I :

Recits et Souvenirs, 48 379 1 ttere fro Switzerland (1940-45),52 286,Darkot gl&ciers: ill., 47 319 53264,393,54 200, 55 219, 223Darrey, Grand: Me.,43 120 n;ote: asc uta ofMt Blanc in 1927,39 335Darwin, Mt (California): 46 96 ! Chamo . and Pierre Pointue, 43 393Daspur Valley (Chitral): 47317 v. of aar de eeuwige Sneeuw van

ill., 47 318-19 tropisc Nedermnd, 50 15TDaumas, J.: his bool,: La Peninsule du de heBne; . Bois: elected hon. member

Sinai, 58 546 Alpine lub, 56288Dauntl.s, Mt (Canada): 1st asc., 47 291 de essole, ., obit., 55 207Dauphine: de ilippi, .:

and the AiguilleMeridionaled'Arves, 40 3 'uigi A edeo of Savoia-Aosta, Duke offive traverses in, 4645 the Abr zzi,' 46 201and Mt Blanc, 1939,52 10 's book :fThe Italian Expedition to theBritish travellers in, 58 453 ;Himala a, Ka,rakoram and Easternill., peaks, from Lea Bans, 46 48 Turkest n, 44 363

I

Ii

I,

de'~iliPPi, F.:eleoted hon. member of Alpine Club, 47 370obit., 51 296port., 61 298

de Fonb1anque, A. F. :obit. of G. F. Berney, 43 344obit. & port., 56 400

de Grunne, Count X. :'Ruwen:llori from the West,' 45 275his book: La Ruwen:llori, 50 3M'death, 55 120

de la Beehe, :M:t(N.Z.): asc., 39 342de la Beche, Sir Henry :

attempt on Mt Blanc, 57493ill., sketches by, 57 496-7

Delagoturm: see Vajolettiirmede 180 Motte, E. S. G. :

'In the Argentine-Chilean Cordillem,'45 328

'MtTronador. Some 1934attempts,' 46370'lllimani and the Na:llis,' 62 250note: third ascent of Mt Sajama, 66 80rev. of Ande Patagoniche, 57 587

de Lepiney, J. :'The mounta.ins of Morocco: the High

Atlas,' 40 221. his books: (with T. de Lepiney): Sur lea

Cr~tes du Mont Blanc, 41 438Climbs on Mont Blanc, 42 372Les Aiguilles Rouges, 55 435

accident,44337 .death, 53 389

DemAnova (Tatm): caves of, 48 24Demavend (Persia) :

asc.,46 336ill.,4& 334

de Montgolfier, E. :his climb on Mt Blanc, 49 70port., 49 71

Dengg, Joseph: fatal accident, 53342Dent, C. T.: 64 107Dent, E.: death, 42 119,162Dent, H. L. R. :

obit. of J. A. B. Bruce,43 165obit. & port., 52 119

Deo Tibba (Himalaya): 52 233attempt, 68 270ill., 62 234

de Pollit:ller.Pollenghi, A. :, The Atlas Mountains,' 45 96'The Vatnajokull,' 48 257his book: Montagne 'bianohi e Uomini

rossi. Diario delIa Spedi:llioneal Cauoaao••. del C.A.I., 1929, 44 361

Derdi Valley (Chitral): 48 295de Rbam, G.: 'An ascent of the 8<mth face

of the Tltsohhorn,' 54 395de Saussure, H. B. :

his book: La Mont Blanc et Ie Co1 duGeant, 40 200

Freshfield's Life of, 41 104his chalet at Breuil, & ill., 43 182-3history of his ladder, 51 143200th anniversary of his birth, 52 141and Lord Palmerston, 64 83

21

ill., 39 348

22Diener, K.: death, 40 180Dieterlen, J.: his book: Le Chemineau de

la Montagne, 51 162Dimai, Antonio:

retirement, 45 404Strutt's tribute to, 53 22

DinalllCromlech: ill., 63 126DinalllMot: lISC.of Nose, 53 120Disgrazia, Mte della. :

lISC.,54 138by N. face, 45 406, 46 204, 393

history, 65 17ill., from Torrone Orientale, 65 8-9

Disteghil Bar (Karakorum): ill., 51 240Distress Signal :

Amerioan Alpine Club's, 50 147Canadian Alpine Club's, 61 148

Dittert, It.: hill book: PaIIIsiondes HautesCimes, 65 326

di Vallepiana, U.: 'Mountaineering in theCaUClISUS,1929,' 42 278

Dixon, G. }!'. :'A first visit to the Zermo.tt District, , 68 469note: the Aiguille Meridionale d'Arves,

57418stonefalls on the Meije, 57 218

Dixon, H. B.: death, 42 336Dodang Nyima Pk.: 1st asc., 42 225Dodd, H. M. F.: obit. of H. Edwll.rds, 48 380Doldenhorn, Gross :

&scs.,from Friinden hut, 61 101Galletgrat,51 101N. face, 1st, 48 388N.E. face, 48 354S. ar~te, 1st, 45 151S.W. face, 48 353, 49128

E. ridge attempted, 61 103tr., from BibergpllSs, 47 364accident: 1929: 41 437ill., 51 100

S. fa.cc & arate, 45 152N. face (1934 route), 46 389S.W. face (1936 route), 48 348-9N.E. face (1936 route), 48 353

Doldenstock: by W. arete, 47 364Dille: early asos., 45 8,9Dolent, Col du Mt :

cr., 39 36, 45 380ill., 39 36, 37, 40146

Dolent, Mt:by N. arete, 48 349, 63 101

& tr. to Aiguille de Triolet, 42 106from Cabane Dufour, 57 243incident on, 48 135ill., 48 348-9

N. faco, 48 135Dolent, Aiguilles Rouges du: La Mouche,

1st aIIIO.,65 281Dolomieu, D.: bi.centenary of his birth,

57421Dolomite Pk. (Canada) :

1st aBO.,43 76, 168ill., W. face, 43 76

Dolomites: 45 268, 46 322, 65 158, 362

(I

Douglas-Hamilton, Lord Malcolm:obit. of Lord David Douglas-Hamilton,

54436Dowbiggin, H. L.: note: the monsoon,46407

Dowling, Mr.: death, 50 141Downer, A. C.: obit., 54 317Drake, F. W.: death,43 381, 428Drakensberg (S. Africa): 39 317, 40 109,

41 406, 49 235 •ill., 49 234--0

Drawings, early: 61 146Dreieckhorn :

S.E. & N. E. ridges, 44 52ill., 44 52-4

Drei Herrnspitze: 40 299asc., 46 78-9 .

Dreitorspitzen: tr. of three pks., 53 340Dreyer, A.: his book: Bil.cherverzeichnis

der Alpenvereinbil.cherei, 39 190Droites, Col des: accident: 1930: 42

306Droites, Les :

acoident: 1930: 42300N.E. faoe, 1st aso., 42 317

variation on, 50 146asc., 54 81

S. fa.ce, new dooc., 44 324, 4li 239ill., N. face (1930 route), 42 318

Drn, Aiguilles du :acoident: 1928: 40 420

1932: 44 336, 45159asc., 48 32, 53 190, 253

by S. face, 51 1451st winter & tr., 40 187Miss Bristow & Mummery, 63 372

attempt by N. slope of S.W. buttress,43174,389

N. fa.oe: asc., 57 555, 68 1761st, 47373, 48 1704th, 54 3091st dooc., 44 336

tr., 40 234, 48 348, 52 220, 56 282ill., 40 235-7, 43 174,52221

Sir J. Herschel's drawing, 57 298Drn, Flammes de Pierre du :

asc., 39 132claim to 1st asc., 43 175, 389ill., N. slope (1890 route): 43 174

Dil.bi, Dr. H. :poem: 'Music des 80jahrigen,' 41218obit. of H. F. Montagnier, 4li 353& the 1st asc. of Mt Blanc, 41 103ninetieth birthday, 51 147obit., 53 255port., 43 166

Du Faur, Miss F.: death, 48 363Duff, D. G.: note on Mountain rescue, 55

196Dummett. G. A. :

, Seven views of Mont Blanc,' 55 121note: Introduotion to the hills, 56 16rev. of Mountain Paths, 66 409obit. of R. C. G. Moggridge, 56 424

23

,5078,5235

Blanc' mentioned,

I

, i

EAGLE'!. NEST, E (SIXT) :the Wills-No n family of, 46 324Offerl for sal , 56 185

Eagle ki Club: book: A Guide to SkiTour in the pper Enga.dine, 39 188

Eales, . M. D : note: Gosau (Salzkam-mer t), 58 2 5 ,

Earl G ey, Mt ( anada): 1st aso., 40 383Eason,~"r. W.:

his b k: (wi hR. Hamilton): A Portraitof 'chaol oberts, 57 424

'I

24 INDEX TO VOLUME~ 39 to +•Easy Day for a Lady': Origin of phrase, Edw~ds, H. :

58 124 ' T~ ropes i the Matterhorn accident ofEaton, J. E. C. : 1 65,' 45 19

rev. of n Monte Rosa. vicende uomini e obit, 46 380impresse,44 374 Edwa s, W.. : obit.,48 165

Nella.Gloria.delle AItezze ?, 45 178 Egger C.:n Duea degli Abruzzi e Ie sue Imprese, not: spelli of names (Andenmatten &

50 848 Benet), 427The Mountain Vision, 53 275 e rlyasce ts of the WetterhOrner,&682Secret Mission,53 400 his oks: ia Eroberung des Kaukasus,Pariano i Monti, 57 105 45 173La Cervin,57106 ·chel-Gs.riel Paccard und del' Mont-

obit. of E. V. Slater, 48 184 blanc, 327A. G. Whitting, 50 128 oDiered r AIpen, 55 331E. G. Oliver, 51 306 Egger, Ernst: 1 426H. W. C. Bowdoin,53159 Eggin 1': by • face, 45 383J. N. Collie,54 59 Egli, .: his ook: Swiss Life and Land-B. W. Watson, 54 192 sca , 5726A. Booth, &6393 Eglint n Towe (BaffinLand): asc.,47 54S. Spencer, 57 410 Egmo t, Mt ( .Z.): accident, & ill., 39353

Eberli, J. J.: note: the Seiler family, 44 Egypt (seealso pacia!List): 42226,44136,339 399, 56 33

obit., 57 87 ill., 2 227-2 3, 66 32 .Ebnefluh : Ehden Church of: ill., 57 73

by N. face, 47 147 Ehme , W.: h s book: Um den Gipfel del'tr. by N. arete and N.W. arete (1st desc.), Wel ,48 386

65 103 Eiffel Canada): ill., 46 80-1ill., N. face (1933route) 47 147,63 135 Eigar:

Ebner, 0.: his book: Kampf um die ascs, 63 186, 54 24Sextner Rotwand, 60 161 b S. ridg from Bergli hut, 62 127

Eccles, 001 : in winter;-'3 1331st cr., Fresnay-Brouillard, 40 388 atte pt, in 't!nter, 41 229ill., 41 52-3, 60 . Eige wand: ~ccidents: 1935: 47 378

Eccles, J. : I I 1936: 48 369his climbing career, 63 150 I 1937: 49 283climbs on S. face of Mt Blanc, 63 153-4, I 1938: 60 33467 135-6 l~asc., 5 310

Eccles, Pio : as., 56 1 5, 68 132ase., 62 18 at empts, 1481st asc., 63 146 Hor i: atte pted, 42 256ill., 62 19, 57 128, 130 tr" 46 201

N.E. slope, 41 52 IPt. 286 to Mittellegi hut, 39 324,S.W. slope, 41 53 j 42 2

Eohevarria, E. A. : note ; some first ascents P~. 2706 a tempted; 48 363in the ChileanAndes, &8407 IbyE. fa e, 49 277

ECl'ins,Les : ope on, 41 423aooident: 1028: 40 410 II' . 2866a c., 63 97ascs., by S.W. arete of Pic Lory, SO 301 Mitt llegigra : attempt & 1st dese.,66185

MissG. Bell's, 39 242 Is ase., 4 254 .tr., & mishap on N. face, 54 17 as s., 40 1, 41 285, 42 257, 49 273,

by S. face, 62 12, 213 3 299, 355by W. (ClocheI')& N.E. aretes, 46 53 hi tory, 41 2821st winter, 40 187 tr , to Jun fraujoch, 45 54

ill., 40 7, 46 53, 48 248, 52215 'th Ma ch & Jungfrau, 47 366S. face, 39 243, 47 260 1st wint ,48 217N. face, 39 245 N. co: des .,40329S.W. buttress (1937route), SO 301 Is asc., 318,4553

Ecrins, Clooherdes: collapse of, 44 132 S.E~(Kalli) fi e: 1st asc., 49 269Eorins, Dome de Neigedes; ill., 9326, 49

2nd ase. of N.W. face, 40 386 ttellegi at, 39 324, 41 282-7Young's (1911)route repeated, 39 154 N~face, 4 329, (1932 route), 44 319,

Ecuelle, 1'; ill., 47 203 5 54Edith (Canada): asO.,5&358 H 'rnligrat 46 202, 39 325, 42 259EdDie,G.: obit. & port., 61 310 N E. face ( 937 route), 49 275

I

I

!

r-----------H---·-----

INDEX TO VOLUJ,fE$ 39 to

Eiger:ill., S.E. face (1937 route), 49 268-9

Eigerwo,nd, 45 55,47375,48 370-1(attempted routes), 48 365

From RI. Silberhorn, 53 104Eigerjoch: 1st cr., 55 55Eigiau, Cwm: ill., 53 122Eiskogel, Gross: N .E. face, possible new

variant, 48 362 ,Eisseespitze (Tatra): tr., 48 21 •Eistalerspitze (Tatra): aso., 48 18Elbruz, Mt:

accident: 1930: 42362asc., 39 333, 42 132, 347, 48 112, 49 85

by 100 climbers, 48 861st ski, 42 287E. pk., 39162,47117,48 n6solitary,47104relic of Sella's, 45 165

ill., 49 80-1Elburz Range (Persia): 45 334, 49 245

ill., 45 338-9, 49 245-6Elie de Bell,umont, Mt (N.Z.):

aac., 39342,43 82, 44 142attempt, 39 164, 273, 41 313ski asc., 49 901st winter asc., 41 234W. Pk., asc., 58 215

Elliott, C. A. :, The Dent Blanche from the Col de Zinal,

1928 and 1947,' 66 212note: Mount Kenya, 47 369obit. of!t. Bioknell, 39 303

T. F. Buxton, 55 301Ellis, F. N. :

obit. of H. Priestman,44 114obit., 47 133~orts., 47 133, 48 332

Ellis, G. W. H. :obit., 44 288port., 44 287

Ellis, W. H.:elected hon. member of B.A.C., 50 332his relief fund for Swiss guides, 50 143,

54 315~bit. & port., 55 208

Ellison, W. J.:'Mount OIympus: an internat.ional ex-

pedition,' 40104Ellmauer Halt: aso., 53 345

tr.,54 18Ellwood, L. A.: 'Jum'ruklJal,' 46 159Ellwood, V. T.: obit., 54 197Elmslie, W. T. :

, Mount Olympus,' 39 86, Some Spanish mountains,' 39 '286, The mountains of Israel,' 40 338, Note on Mt Olympus,' 40 101, 402'Olympus from the West and South,'

41377note: Pyrenees, 43 395rev. of Mount Olympus, 41 242obit., 5586port., 5588

25

Men

Mont

(1783-

: 40 408, 41 21, 48 361,

. face (1936 route), 48 361

.Z.): 39266

26 INDEX TO VOLUMk,S' 39 tolssEremite gl.: ill., 55 32-3 Evertst, Mt :Ermatinger, Mt (Canada): 1st asc., 40 382, 19 8 exp it,ioll: Tilman's summary,

41341 50323Escher, J.: death, 43 385 TIman's apar, 51 3Escudi6,A.: obit. of M. Paillon, 51 119 ost of, 6 183Esquilant, P.: death, 56414 xygen 0 ,51 85Estellette, Aig. d': 1st asc., 52 258 ersonnel 50 147Esterol: 43 249 rt., me bel'Sof, 51 4Etages, Pte du Vallon des: 1st asc., by N. some p rters of, 51 4

face,49119 ex edition 0 Nepal side of, 58 108Etna, Mt: attempt, 55 364 19 1 (Reco naissance) expedition, 58 269,Eton Masters: m., grave of, 47 378 33Europa, Picos de: 39 287, 43 396, 44 232, i1J.45218-.1,4811,226--7,50111,515-17

48 63, 58 133 ~I 57281 90ill., 44 216-235,46 64-70 orth col 48 6, 10

Evans, Mt (Canada): 1st 0.80" 40 382, 41 orth pk , 58 109343 . face, . & W. aretes, 48 192,49 128

Evans, Mt (N.Z.): 2nd asc. & accident, .E. face (with heights), 48 14450 141 • cwm, 7, 58440-1

Evans, R. C. : om W., 109'Three Alpine climbs in 1949,' 57 455 Eyri 's Jokull: 4086,90rev. of The Story of Mountains, 58 138 asc , 48 320obit. of R. A. Hull, 57 415 ill., 48 321

Eveque, r: accident: 1930: 42357Everest Committee: 48 406, 49 121, 56 202Everest, L. F.: death, 47 158Everest, Mt: FAlIls~H.: el cted hon. member of Alpine

accident: Wilson, 1934: 48 414,478,48 5 Cl~b' 40 19final problem, 46 442 ' Fair eather, t (N. America) :health on, 48 449 att mpts, 339height, 41 419, 58 406 1st asc., 43 21Houston flight over, 45 166,400 m'

t4322

film of, 46 405 Falco , N. L.: 'The Bakhtiari Mountainslast lap, the, 57285 of outh·w t Persia,' 48 351post-monsoon attempt, possibilities of, Fans awe, R.. : obit., 53 167

53 205, 392 po ,,5316, Potin,' a,40 187 Farm r, J. B. obit., 54 310projected 1947expedition, 55314,56 9 Farq aI', F. P.: 'The Sierra Nevada ofrival to, 65 320 alifornia ' 48 88name, 47 127,401, 58 406 his book: (witll A. E. Phoutrides):, Times' photegraph of, 57 97 ount 01 mpus, 41 242 '!Westernroute, merits & demerits of.58451 Farr, J. P.:1924 expedition: Austrian criticism & 'T e West, or Breche, arete of La Meije,'

reply to, 39 117 291port., someporters of, 44 lIS 'N tea on t e early history ofthe Requin,'

1933expedition: Ruttiedge's paper, 45 216 105 'extracts from Crn,wford'sdmry, 48 Ill, 'T e Thiol and Pilkington routes up the I

119 frau n 1862,'40 357extracts from Shipton's diary, 46 118 no: Col d Lion,39155 Ifilm of, 46 214 rev of Guid de la Chaine du Mont Blanc, 'i'

findingof ice-axe, 45 226,48 447 d' 39364German comment on, 44 262 larts de 10.Ohaine du Mont Blanc,lessons from (Longstaff),46 102 I 39 365 I

commentson same (Crawford),48 109 ~ette: R cordi di Esplol'azionie Nuovecomments on same (Greene),48 108 !'Ascensi ni sulle Alpi, 40 211

personnel,44 344 J bilaum hrift, 40 430port., membersof, 45 217 ,A.C.Be • Bericht, 1927,40 430

1935 (Reconnaissance) expedition: Ship- 0 ronik d r Wengernalp und Jungfrau-ton's paper, 48 1 bahn, 4 4.'il

1936 expedition: Ruttledge's paper, 48 I s Cabo.es du Club Alpin Suisse en221 1927, 431

personnel, 48 185 ppalachi n Mountain Club Bulletin,port., membersof. 48 222 June, 1 28, 40 433

N.0.0.'s of, 48 223 obi~.of F. gaud, 40 371

27

he Tatra Mountains, 53 399n the Battlefield, 54 452rma on Foot and Ski,67 434Camera and Sketchbook,

I,

T

Farrar, J. P.: INDEX TO VOL:::8

11

~ :~~ history, 47 361menUoned,54 116, 226 Films, 'fountai ering: 40 186,41 224, 255,elected hon. member Amerioan Alpine 42 1 1, 343, 186, 330, 389, 44 136, 45

Club, 40 180 165, 02, 46 2 4, 405, 47 155,50 328obit. & ports., 41 172 Finch, . R.: ea.th,48 179,403

Fasana, E.: his book: II Monte Rosa Finch, (}. I. :vicendeuomini e impresse,44 374 'No1t on the Viro va.lleypeaks, Corsica,'

Faulhorn : 39.002Ha.sler'sascs., 51 333, 56 185,403 note! oxyge 'and Mount Everest, 61 89winter asc., 1887,67 13 rev. ,f Das Getsoher-Buoh,50355

Favre, Dent: obit. 1ofV. A. Fynn. 41 397aso.,43136 Rt·H' K. P to,43 352..S. arete, desc., 45 406 Findla , Mt (Ca ada): 1st aso., 43 169

Favret, Edouard: Ffihrerbuch extracts, Finestr, Pta. d : a.sc.,40 17450 144 l<'inest ,Mado a delle: as climbing oen-

Favrot, Fran90is: Fi1hrerbuoh extracts, tre, 25060 145 Finger ks. (Ca 'fornia): 46 97

Fay, C. E.: obit. & port., 44 116 Finste hornFedohenkogl.: 41 268-70 asos. 43 120,53 100, 143,299, 65 245Feekopf: tr. with Allalinhorn,43 11 E. (Obet'S 11derjooh)arete, 42 110Feldsohyn, Hinter: by E. ridge, 48 176 Is Sir F. Sohuster & Coolidgeon, 48Fellowes,P. F. M. (& others): their book: 30

First over Everest, 46 229 N.. faoe, 2339,44 63Fenner, C. A.: 'British Columbia, 1949,' S•• arllte: 1st completeasc. by 40167

57507 ttained rom S.W., 50312Ferguson, Mt (Canada): asc., 57 511 r. by, 4 401,66282Ferradillo (Spain): asc., 44 222 wi ter asc. 54 28Ferrand, H.: death, 41 2 ill., 61, 65 5644, 66 384-5, 466Ferrari, A. : S.. ar~te, 40 167-9

his book: Nella Gloria delle Altezze1, N•. faoe ( utes shown),42 Ill, 34045 178 Finzi, . S. :

death, 48 183 'Th Scheide Wetterhorn by the N.W.Ferro Centrale: fi e,' 42 1

E. art:te: asc., 41 224 'Av anche ys in the Obersulztal,' 47reached from the N" 1st asc., 63 19 32

Ferro Orientale (Punta Qualido): 'St ck by Ii htning,' 49 651st asc. by N. face, 63 21 'Th Bregag a,' 55 11ill., N. face, 48 64, 63 18 note: Krithe buhI'1lasoent of the Wetter-

(1914route), 42 328 h N. fa ,55428Ferro, Torrionedel: rev. f The olomites,58 284

E. arete, 1st asc., 39 316 1l-lkingi the Alps, 66 287aso., 41 224 . obit of C. T. Holland, 5363

ill., N. face, 48 64, 53 18 1\1E. S. R dolf, 52 278Festi gl.: ice avalanohe from, 49 280 P. J. H. Una, 66 117Feuz, Edward: avalanche adventure, 55 65 Firba ,T.: s book: I Bought a Mnun-Feuz, Ernest: port, 54 154 tain 53 78Fiammes, Punta: by S. faoe, 46 327 Firm' ,A. H. :

ill., 46 322 'Th first oent of the South faoe ofField, A. E.: obit. & port., 57 402 M nnt Ke ya,' 65 400Field, Mt (Canada): asc., 55 67 port, 65 81Fiera, Torre: asc., 40 J74 Firsoff V. A. :Fiesoherhorn,Gross: his ooks:

ascs., by N. face, 42 319 S . Trackin winter, 53 135 T e Cairn

tr., 48 138,56 352. ran witill., N. face (1930route), 42 320 58425

Fiescherhorn, Klein (Oche): First ~d Com ittee,56 IIIasc., 57 22 Fisch ,H.: s book (editor): Der Gross-E. faoe, desc., 40 118 gloe ner, 42 49N. face, 1st asc., 48 356 ~Sher~'J. E.: obit. of Allston Burr, 57 91ill., N. face (1936route), 48 349, 57 16 Flson, E. H.: eath, 43 179,220

FiescherMrner : ill., 40 118,62 127 Fitzge aId, E•. : obit. & port., 43 163Fifre, Le: asc., 47 264 Fitz-G rald, G. 1. (Miss): 'The traverse of

ill., 47 260 the randes orasses,' 43 63

28Fit~Gibbon, M. R. (Miss) :

'The Ryan-Lochmatter arete of theAiguille du Plan,' 55 164

note: shelter hut Bobi Arsandaux, 48184

Fitzpatrick, T. C.: death, 44 131, 173Fitzpatrick, T. H. :

obit. of A. V. Valentine-Richards, 4S 347obit., 53 380

FitzRoy, Mt (S. America): 1st asc., 68 407Flaig, W.:

his books: Skifilhrer fur die SilVTetta-Gruppe und die Rhaetikon, 44 162

Das'Gletscher-Buch, 50355Flat Top Pk. (Canada): 1st asc., 43 170Fletcher, C. R. L. :

his b00k (editor): Reliquiae: A. D.Godley,39178

Fletcher, F.: obit. of P. Fletcher, 39 300Fletcher, P.: obit. & port., 39 300Fletschhorn: asc., 52 68, 56 29

1st aso. by N. face, 40 379Pt. 3928, 1st asc. by E. face, 41 208ill., N. face, 40 379

Floitenspitze: N. face, 48 67Florence, Mt (Canada): 1st asc., 40 383,

41354Flores, Nevado de (Andes): 1st asc., 58

408 'Fluhhorn: asc., 43 10Foa,E.:

".rhe new Frontiers in the Alps,' 40 292rev. of The Alpine Passes (Middle Ages),

43194Parole agli Alpinisti, 46 234Visionl Alpine (third series), 46 236

obit. of E. B. Harris, 47 135obit., 55 84

F(jIz (Kaiserchild) group: 44 252Fontaine, E. :

& Ravanel, 44 338death, 56 316

Foot, H.: death, 48 403, 47 194Footstool (N.Z.): ascs., 39 267, 42 348, 47

160Footwear:

Barker boots, 4S 295in Dolomites, 44 252, 58 405ski-ing boots, 55 157, 289Vibrams, 52 140

experiences with, 66 331,5716], 165Foraker, Mt (N. America) :

1st asc., 46 393, 47 212Graham Brown's paper, 4714,205S.W. pk., 1st asc., 46 400, 47 221original namc, 47 18ill., 44 274-5, 46 395-8, 47 16-33, 212-13,

228-9Forbes, J. D. :

in the Coolin, 64 340Steven's paper, 64 372in the Graians, 56 252port., 64 376

Forbes, J. W. F.: obit., 55 303

For~· s, Mt ( nada):as .,3965Is aso. by . arete, 43 169ill.l,39 65, 77

Forbes-Lyell roup (Rockies): 39 52For ,Mt (Gr enland) :

at empt., 185Is asc., 50 324, 51 108ill. 44 185, 51 108-9

For osa: a . & ill., 46 328Forn gl.: ill, pks. at head of, 43 H2, 48 62Forn , Mte d 1: 55 13

ill. 5644-Fo tel', E. obit. of S. L. Pearoe, 66 275~'osk tt, Miss: MS Journal, 51 332Foss n, Benj min: ascends Castor at age of

n' ety,56 85Foth rgill, C. '.:

'C 'mbs wi h medical and wea.ther com-lication,' 54 347

no~e: Foul play in the Tyrol 1,68 538re . of The Cradle of SwitzE.'.rland,68 539

Foth rgill, E. L.: note'oll Mounta.in rescue,55197

Fou, iguille u:Fr mtheS, 60306by S.W. rid e, 68 270ill. from th S. (1938 route), 50304

Four Peaks ( brad or) : 46 33Four housan -metre Pks. (Alps): 41 49,

44 37Fou he, Gra de: a.se., 44 259Four he, Peti : ase., 44 259Four , les: ill, 47 202Fou ,la Soie es: ill., 47 203Fowl ,T.J.:n te:thePioosdeEuropa,&8133Fox, .: obit, 42 99Fox 1.(N.Z.): 49 98Fox, . H.: a d family,55 135Fox, t (Cana a): by E. ridge, 43 264,44172Fran is, E. C.' death, 46 206, 276Fran lin gl. ( anada.): retreat of, 44 274

ill., 47 77, 8Fra Josefgl

ill., 40 112,Free a.n, E.:

obi .,5839po .,5337

Frees • F. E.: dea.tb.,47 367, 48 218FreIl;e ay, COI~(N.Z.); origin of name, 53 93Fre s, W. F. T. von: dea.th, 52 142Fres eld, D .. : 54 106-7

• T e third ~unt Everest expedition: anustrian .ticism,' 39 117

no : undel Kangchenjunga., 39 161t ave! in t e Caucasus, 39 102C uoasian nomenclature, 42 135

poe : on e dea.th of Fran90is Devouas-s ud, 46 2 1

rev'l of Jac es Balmat du Mont Blanc,4214611Littera ure Alpestre en France et en

- [Anglete e aux XVIII- et XIX-! Sieeles, 413

II!

r1~.I

I(

o

INDEX TO VOLUMES!39 to 58

Fresh1ield, D. W. :rev. of Montagne bianobi e Domini rossi, 44

361,45 Hl5The J<Jxperiencesof an Explorer, 39 359Le Mont Blanc et Ie Col du Wiant, 40

200obit. of W. Leaf, 39 123

A. L. Mumm, 40 154letter to M. von Kuffner, 51 313audience with Pope Pius XI, 51' 1obit.,46 166ports., 46 167, 172, 173

Freshfield gl. (Canada): retreat of, 44 272ill., 43 79

Freshfield group: 43 75Freshfield, Mt: asc., 43 78Freshman, E.: obit. ofV. T. Ellwood, &4197Fresnay, Col du: ill., 45 232Fresne, Mt du (N.Z.): asc.,44 142Friedmann, L.: death, 51 330Frison-Roche, R. :

his books: First on the Rope, 57 263The Last Crevasse, 68545

Frith, B.: obit. of L. P. Penny, 66 303Frlinden hut: climbs from, 51 98Friindenhorn :

asc. from Frunden hut, 51 100by S.E. face, 48 354by E. ridge, 51 102by W. ridge, 51 102

ill.,511ooS.E. faoe (1936 route), 50 141

Frilndenjoch :from Frunden hut, 61 99direct from Gasterntal, 51 324ill., 61 100

Fry, T. C.:obit., 42 97port., 42 98

Fryatt, Mt (Canada): 1st asc., 40 196Fryxell, F. :

his book: The Tetons: Interpretations ofa Mountain Landscape, 51 154

Fuchs, J. M. (& Sohn): ports.,54 123Fuels: for mountain cooking, 58 511Fuhrer, Heinrich: oorrespondence ro, 40452Fiihrerbiicher :

Almer familv: 61 257-69Burgener, Alexander: sa 181Crettez, Maurice: 68 304Jaun, Andreas: 67219Jaun, Johann: 57 3l!1Jossi, Christian.: 63 187 n.Pollinger, Alois: 57 524Vianin, Joseph: 57 61

Fuji-Yama:height, 41 421, 42 129asc. by centenarian, 61 334

Fiinffingerspitze :Schmittkamin, 45 273, 46 326, 53 25Daumeuscharte, 63 25, 27solitary asc., 63 25

Furneaux, L. R.: death, 47 148Furrer, Josef: port., 60 124

29Furrer, ptto :

repO~d deat ,53 266, 53 387accid nt, 54 2 I

Fury G p (Cana a): cr., 47 83ill.,4 81

FusshOr 161': ase, 41 215, 43 40, 48 138ill., f~m Spar horn, 41 216,43 41, 54

fro Ober letsch gl., 43 43Fyfe, T. C.: obi .', 56 284Fyfe's Vla.~s(N.Z): 01'.,41 234]'ynn, 'I' A.: 0 t., 41 397

port., ;41398 ..Fytnarg/n (Cauc us): 1st asc., 42 346

GABB,:m. B.: d nth, 48 359Gabelho n, Ober :

ascs. :1st, seen by Lord F. Douglas, 41 227,

5 3332nd 57 62by . face, d rect finish, 50 309

attem ted, 53 I}by ord F. ouglas,41 227,51 332

tr., 204, 63 9, 55 414GabeIh9 n, Unte -: ascs., 43 11, &4 350

1st, 6 333Gabet, aron F. death, 42 337Googe,U W. T.: death, 44 131, 174Gaillard E.:

'Edo ard Ord' 're's two ascents of MontBla 0 in 184 ,'57501

, Brit' h travel ers in the Dauphine, sa 453l1'Ote: an unk own ascent of Mont Blanc,56 89

bisb ks:(wit H. F Montagnier): Lettres de

. B. de S ussure a so.femme, 60 168Alp s de So. oie, vol. 5, pt. 2, 51 156He riette d' ngeville au Mont Blanc,

296his p: Ca e de la CImine du Mont

Bla c, 39 36obit. f: V. d Cessole, 65 207

R. odefroy, 56 208 .H. ttrier,~7 224

~lccto hon. ~ bel' of Alpine Club, 51 172Galt, J... : Obi, 67 238Gait,J. p.: obit, 5& 210Galdhllplggen (N rway): asc., 58 222Galengr t: new scs. in, 49 169Galensto k:

accide t: 193 : 46 415asc.,5 140attem t, 47 25

Galibier, Grand: asc., 40 4Gallet, J :

note: the Den du Midi landslides, 41 420his bo k: De niers Souvenirs de l'Alpe,

4029 tohit., 192port., 06 181

GallhuW" J.: bis book (editor): DieDolomiJten, 46 27

30

Gallo, 11: 55 18by E. face, 46 386ill., 45 386

Gandegg: cable railway proposed, 61 138,174

Gangotri: glacier, 43 303, 46 306group: ill., 55 184

Gansser, A.: bis book (with A. Heim):Thron del' Gotter, 50163

Garden, W.: obit., 58 120Gardetta, Passo delia: 49 127Gardiner, F.: port., 53 142Gardiner, K. (Miss): 'A Canadian pack

train trip,' 42 70Gardner, A. :

his books: The Art and Sport of AlpinePhotography, 39 358

Britain's Mountain Heritage, 54 86Garhwal (see also Special List): 50 323,

56292Garibaldi Park (Canada) : retreat of glaciers,

44274Garmo, Mt: 41269-70

ill., 41 269Garwood, E. J. :

obit. of J. H. Wainewright, 40 151C. C. Branch, 43 341D. W. Freshfield, 46 175Lord Conway of Allington, 49 256

elected President of Geological Society,42120

obit., 67 239, 418Gasherbrum I: (see Hidden Peak)Gask, G. E.:

obit. of J. P. Farrar, 41 172H. V. Reade, 41 392G. H. Makina, 46 180M. J.•.Hepburn, 63 376W. T. Lister, 54 431S. Gask, 67 92

obit., 68 112Gask, S.: obit., 57 92Gaspard, Antoine: death, 45 408Gaspard, Maximin:

obit. & port., 39 307corrigendum re obit., 40 114memorial to, 39 331

Gaspard, Pierre: port., 39 307Gaspard, Pic:

tr. from Pave, 39 131to Pave, 41409,44 210

ill., 48 248Gatine, A.: death, 60 319Gaunt, H. C. A.: sonnets, 68 261Gauri Parbat:

route towards, 62 411st asc., 52 45ill"liO 67

(route, 1st asc.), 52 44Gauri Sankar rllJlge (Himalaya): 68 447Gausden, J. G. S.: obit. & port., 67241Gavarnie, Cirque de: 54 148Gaylay (porter): discovery of his body on

Nanga Parbat, 51 74

Gayle, N.: his book: Sinister Crag, 51 347Gai~!k:~~ng oier, lower (Hindu Kush): ill.,

Ge nt, Aigu lle du icidents 1932: 44 345

1949: 57252cs., 45 35, 48 34, 53 97, 101N. face 48 167

, Mum ery'sletter on, 48 180! N.W. £ ce, 57 555I S. face, 1st asc., 48 167mile Re 's death on, 48 35

iI.,48 17from S. ¥., 48 32from gl cier du Geant, 48 33N. face routes of early attempts), 48180

Gil nt, Co1 u:cident: 1938: 60 319rly cr. y guides, 47 333

at cr. by ladies (1822), 54 57'Illferiqu proposed, 46 213

Ge irgskrie : rev., 39 363Ge des, Mt (Canada)':

ttempt, 7 294, 296'1.,4729

Ge de, Mt ( anada): asc., 40 196Ge rvortur ( celand): aso., 48 270Ge s, Cima di: asc" 43 252, 256

· .,4325Ge merhomfr: tr., 54 30Ge elIi, Co e dei:. 53 22Ge alIi, Piz i: N.W. Needle, 1st asc., 39134Ge mi Pas : Blaikie's passage (1775), 45 14Ge slftcke: cr. on ski, 54 29Ge rge, H.. : port., 55 252Ge lachspit e (Tatra): asc., 48 23Ge an m untaineering: 44 334, 48 374,

7190Ge dorf, B ron A. T. von :

is diary. iscovered, 41 102. acoo t of 1st asc. of Mt Blanc, 41 147

Ge asutti, G.: .his books: Montagnes mil.io,5722

i (with • Chabod) :. Alpinismo, 47 386Ge$ner, Cad:

*s books: On the Admiration of Moun-tains 50 346

, A Des iption of the Riven Mountain,50 6

ort., m al of, 40 145poneter orn: winter asc., 41 228

Ga 010. (Ca casus):y S.W. ete,48 111. face, 1 t asc., 48 362, 49 81.,41 16

· I., 49 8 1Gh mu Bar gl. (Yasin): ill., 47 318G rib, Ge I (Egypt): asc., 49 228

· .,4923G i, E.: eath. 46 217Gh 1Lasht om (Hunza): ill., 48 128-9Gi bon, Ed ard:

r. of Mt enis, 56 55~is appre iation of mountains, 57 57

INDEX TO VOLUMES ~9 to 58

Gibson, J. S. T.: 'Days in the CanadianRockies,' 54 399

Gibson, J. T. M.: 'The ascent of BandarPunch,' 58 249

Giessen gl.: desc., 42 340Gilson, R. C.: Obit. & port., 51 121Girdlestone, A. G.: & the Matterhorn

accident (1865), 57 369Girdlestone Pk. (N.Z.): ill., 49 96-.Girthi gorges (Garhwal): passage of, 5858Gisighorn: aBO.,39 156,41 21nGiulchi (Cauoasus): 42279

lower pk., 1st asc., 42102higher pk., 1st asc., 42 283ill., 42 284-5

Oiuseppi, P. L.: obit. & port., 56 277Gjeitga.ljar (Lofoten): asc., 51 45Glacier Carre, Breche du: 1st cr., 46 219Glacier dams: how formed, 44 239Glacier fiea: ill., 66 360Gla.cierHouse (Selkirks): demolished,42141

ill., site of, 42 142Glacier Pk. (N.Z.) :

attempt, 41 314, 43 83history, 43 831st asc. from E., 43 86ill., 43 84,-6-7, 45 306

Glaciers: vertical retardation of ice of,55271

Glaciers, Aiguille des: aso., 40 408Glaciology: investigations of Forbes &

Agassiz, 54 377--8G1arnisoh: 58 256Glazebrook, R. T.: obit., 48 158

port.,48 161Glendower, Mt (Canada):

1st asc., 56 358ill., 58 354, 357

Glenmore Lodge: ill., near, 56 209Gletscher Ducan: ill., 66 122-3Gletsoherhorn :

by N. &reteattained from N.W., 1st asc.,44 315

by N. face, 55 313ill., N.W. faoe (1932 route), 44 316

GUere, Aiguille de la: accident: 1932:44 346

Glockner Gross:acoident: 1932: 44 349ases., 46 78, 48 61, 53 349N.W. arate: dese. & tr. of S. half of

Glocknerwand, 46 411Pallavicinirinne: asc., 40 185, 405

by German mountain troops, 51 328ill., from Johannisberg, 48 61 .

relief of the group, 51 95contemporary pioture of 1st a8O.,51 95

Glooknerwand: attempt, 53 350Glockturm: asc., 48 61Glouoester, Duchess of: expedition to Mt

Kenya, 48 184Glover, G. T.: obit. of W. 1. Clark, 45 148Gliischaint, Piz: tr .• 43 15

N. arete, 1st asc., 58 182

31

Glyder FILch: ill. 63 119Godafoss i (Iceland : ill., 40 94GOdefrO~R. :

his bo k: La ature Alpine, 57 112obit., 5208

Goethe: " Letters from Switzerland,' quoted,53368i

Gag, Mt (Greenla d): asc., 45 396, 46 44Goggs, F S.: obi ., 53 162

port., 3159Goho (K rea): 4 105,110Goldsmit ,Mt ( Z.): _

outsta ding res ue, 45 168, 3061st aso , 45 Ins

Gall, Ho er: by . face, 47 3461st allC by Tric terweg, 50 86

Gombu: port., 5 46Gondolie e, Tete e: attempt, 52 210Gonella, .: dea h, 45 397Goodfell w, B. R :

'Wide angle tereollcopic photography,'43 39

'Five raverse in Dauphine,' 46 45, Indi leave,' 55 373'Note on Nan alma, 1944,' 55 202'Berg der We t,' &8 219, The eissho horseshoe,' 58 465note: an expe ition to Sikkim, 54 81

the White ower,' 57 570rev. 0 Climbs f my Youth, 57 270

Roc for Cli bing, 57 583Lak landSc apbook, 57 586Alp' e Glaci , 68429Ber e der WIt, 1951, 68429

Good H e, Mt ( anada): Ishso., 47 76,290Gordam ,Pk. ( ikkim): 1st aac., 49 103Gordon, t (Can daj: 53 332Gortu P s (Cau us): 47 162Gos, A.: 53 173

his b ok: So venire d'un Peintre deMo tague, 5 397

axhibi ion of h paintings, 52 138obit., 386

Gos, C.:'A wi r's da at Courmayeur,' 50 228'Mo tain so 'tude: notes of summer

day,51111note: three gr at Italian guides, 50 320

a f1 'ly of g 'eat guides, 52 133J-ea -Joseph Carrel, 56 81Jea ·Henri avanel, 56 82wol as in th Valais, 56 292

letter rom Sw zerland, 53 171hillbo ks: G6 eraux Suissescommandant

e chef l' ee Suisse de Mariguan a.1 14,4549

Vo gedeS lS8urehorsdesAlpes,48376Alp nisme a ecdotique, 47 180V0 geurll il ustres en Suisse, 50 164Tra Mies al trell, 52 157Soli ude mo tagnarde, 54 446L'E pee ai stre, 55 112La ervin,S 106Alpine 'l'rag y, 57 115

INDEX TO VOLUJ(ES 39 t 58

Grl$n Lake k. (Sikkim): 1st asc., 49 48Gre~l(l, R.:

• ountll: rescue in war and peace,' 55 20• he Gr e carrier,' 55 201I' v. of At ck on Everest, 49 131o it. of F. S. Smythe, 57 233

Or ne Carr er, the: 55 201Ore nland ( e Special List): ill., 42 242-50,

180-9, 6 38-9, 49200-1, 61 108-9, 581 4-5

Ore .nwood, . M. : obit. ofE. H. L. Wigram,304

Gr nwood,p rt., 47

Gre n, Aia cs., 39 5, 48 27, 63 14"

, by E. fa e, 39 150, 40403, 43 244, 44 123,. 4527 ,47 370n., 48347, 52225, 5397,

5755by W. e, 39322in April 39 334

e rly wst ry, 39 251rand Gel darme byNantillons face, 42342nubel C imney, asc., 40 611st gui eless, 39 150

te Balfo 1', early history, 39154,252S phen's attempt, 53 226t ., 47 , 266, 62 216, 53 98, 188, 370,

55 282iI ., 39 2 ,256,45 270, 50227,53 102-6

I Tour R uge hut, 48 348-9Gre~ten (No way): asc., 47 281Grejy Pk. (N Z.): asc., 44 142Gri.letsch, 'z :

e traord' ry escape on, 39 113· ., S.W. ace, 39 116

On in (Wal ): incident on, 54 36Gri ,Joha, (del' Koderba,cher):

a,n as. of the Aiguille Vene fromArgenti . e, 43 123

Gri ,Johan II: 41 427d a,th,42 23

Gn delwald:i winter, 1887, 57 10i ., about 1760, 40 269

guides f, about 1876,47160Gri delwald glaciers:

le.ikie's 'sit to, 45 16i .,40 26 ,60 189

G . ons: fl de in, 40 185Gri el (of C urmayeur): 50 233

df3e.th,55 26Griyola:

t .,50 195 53 Ill, 67 2951 t asc. &fm Col de Bellefact', 63 231

Gd zly Bear : ill., 47 292-3Gro manns tze: tr., 53 25Gr shorn:

a .oident: 1934: 46415. face, 1 t MC., 44 3142nd asc , 47 145

i ., N. fac (1932 route): 44 315Grotelle, Co. de (Corsica): asc., 40 173Oru~en: hOre1Schwarzhorn burnt, 42 123

I

32Gos, C.:

obit. of V. Sella, 54 292Joaef Pollinger, 55 309H. Gouraud, 56 70J. Henry, 56 281

obit., 57 235port., 50 230elected hon. member of Alpine Club, 51 325Academic Fran9aise award, 65 425

Gosau (Salzkammergut): climbs from, 58275

Oosausee: ill., 49 243Gostiaa.,M. :

'Tnglav N. face : Buttress or Skah\route,' 42 84

Gotch, H. G.: obit. & port., 62 268Gouraud, H. :

elected hon. member of Alpine Club, 61 325obit. & port., 56 70

Gouter, Aiguille du :incident on, 49 631st asc. by a woman, 67 462ill., 41 114-15

Gouter, DOme du :accident: 1930: 42 3561st asc .• 67 204by W. face, 41 430in winter, 41 228desc. by N. face, 45 23SMe. by guides (1786), 41 122ill., 41 114, 62 228

Gover, W. H. :obit. of C. H. Brook, 51 306obit., 53 379

Grabenhcrn: 1st recorded ase., 57 532Graham Land: 57 198Graham, R. :B.: obit. of 1. S. Osborn, 49 116Graham's Saddlc (N.Z.): cr., 39 273, 280,

40 113, 54 271Graians: English travellers in, 66 51, 157,

252,68273Grand Canyon (Colorado): ill., 46 322, 50

258-9Grand St. Bernard Monastery: accident

near,39152Grange, Julien: his career, 52 263Granier, Mt: landslip & ill., 57316Graaleitenspitze: asc., 54 36Grass, Christian: pert., 40 153Grass, Hans: port., 40 153Grave, La: accident near, 45 408Graven, A.: port., 46 327Graves, C.: quoted, re 1st asc. of Matter-

horn,53 365Great End: incident on, 54 125Great Gable:

accident: 1942: 53 396Oblique Chimney: 53176

Greaves. A.: obit. of H. C. Jenkins, 46 191GredetschhOrnli: ill., 43 56Gredetschjoch: ill., 43 56Gredig, L.: port., 40 153Green, Mt (N.Z.): tr., 39 342

asc.,413l5

INDEX TO VOLUMES ~9 to 58 33

Gruetta, Mte: by N. face, & ill., 50 135 HAAST, T (N.Z.): aae., 44 142GriinhOrner: ill., 52 127 (& see 52 286) 2nd as . & 1st t .,39 167,283Griinhornliicke: cr. on ski, 54 29 W. su mit atte pted, 45 311Gschnitzer: new route on, 40 185 ill., 45 07Gspaltenhorn : Habel C ek (Can a): ill., pk. at head of,

ases. : 48 38 1E. arete, 47 146 Habel, M (Canad ): asc., 46 84in 1884,48 157 Habicht, e: as s., 41 297, 53 344King's, from N.E. (1891),46210 ill., 41 98 •N.E. face, 1st, 44 313 Hackett, .: obi ., 55 89S. face & E. arete, 45 154,54 26 port., 88winter, 54 27 Hadow, .: port." 39 154

W. a,rete,deso., 55 313 Haidinge (N.Z.):ill., N.E. face, 41 214,46 211 S. pk., nd aso:, 39 165,272

(IQ32route), 44 313 ill.,45 06S. face (1932route), 45 154 Hainswo h, W.

Gueterbook, E. A. L. : ' The fi st ascen of Mt Oubliette,' 45 341note: the acoident near Panjtal'ni, Kash· Hakuund a, Mt ( orea): 43 104

mir,45162 HlLle,R. Miss): eath, 50 9Zermatt revisited, 58 274 Half Do e (Caluo nia): 46 97

obit. of C. F. Stoehr, 44 290 Hall, D.. W. :P. R. P. Miers,54 199 'New ealand tes, 1949-50,' 57 538

Guggigl.: 1st travellers on, 55 58 'New ealand otes, 1950-51,' 58 215GugJiermina,G. F. & G. B. : obit. 0 J. Ada son, 58 531

their book (with G. Lampugnani): Vette: Hall, jr., . S. :Ricordi di Esplorazioni e Nuove .Ascen· 'Ixtac 'huat! a d Popocatepetl,' 45 93sioni sulle Alpi, 40 211 'Climb in the Coast Range of British

Gugliermina, Pta.: asc. from S.S.W., 50 Colu bia,' 47 288327 obit. 0 H. B. d Villiel'sSohwab,47 351

Guides: W.. Work an, 50 290tlUoogreat Italian, 50 320 Hallberg, F. :Days with four great (Spenoer's paper), his bo k (with H. Muokenbrunn): The

53 185 Com lete Boo of Ski·ing, 49 139licensingof N.Z., 43 398 Haller, breoht on: his Alpine jourueys,Berchtesgaden,41 426 58 96Kaisergebirge,41 426 Hallerma. ern: 44 247Courmayeur,50 234 Hamel, D .: his creer, 58 169Zermatt, 53 12 Hamilton R.:Dolomite, 53 23 his boo (with . W. Eason): A portraitCortina, 53 348 of Mi hael Ro rts, 67 424malpractices of Ortler, 53 351 Hamilton Mt (N .. ): aocident, 48 288ill., Grindelwaldguidesabout 1876,47 160 ascs., 3 342, 42 348, 49 93

Guillemin,P.: death, 40 404 1st tr. Malte run, 58 216Gulba (Caucasus): 1st asc. by E. ridge, Hanbury. racy, J : his book: Black River

49 276, 50 26 of Tibe , 50 351Gullfoss(Iceland): 40 86 Hannibal his cro ing of the Alps, 55 405GunongTahan (Malaya): asc., 54 426 Hanson,.: 'Co rmo,yeur,1948,'57 26Gunther, A. E. : Hanuman (Garhw I): attempt, 58 54

'The Sierra Nevada of the Upper Kern Hanuman Pk. (Ga hwal): aso., 65 185River, California,' 41 328 ill., 55 84

'A visit to the Andes, of Venezuela,' 62 Haramus Pass(K rakorum): 1stor., 5220770 Harding, . R. J .

•The asoent of PiooBonpland in the Andes his boo : LIan ria Paas (Climber's Clubof Venezuela,' 63 127 Guid ), 58 54

note: Mta Mallory & Irvine, 40416 Hardy, H H.:' umble Pie,' 56 99GrossGlockner,46 411 Hare, ].~U~OObe\1a: the St. Gervais route toVenezuelan.Andes,52 133 Mt Bla c, 1856, 7462

rev. of MontaPacifique, 68 417 Haringer, Rudolf: death,48 73CordillereBlanche, 58 542 Harll), H.: obit., 297

Gurdon, B. E. M.: obit., 67 407 Harpel', . P. :Gurtner, O. : 'Fut.y ears ago' 63 90

note: the accident on the Ruohenfenster- note: ;e frien hip of guides, 53 391turm, 49 285 instru tional c uraes, 56 186

Jungfrau, N.E. ar~te, 50 145 Feder tionofCubsinNewZealand,55221

34 INDEX TO VOLU~E839

Harper, A. P. :his book: Memories of Mountains and

Men, 56 87obit. of S. Turner, 41 402

M. Ross, 42 309E. Teichelmann, 51 124T. C. Fyfe, 56 284H. C. Chambers, 58 526

tribute to C. G. Bruce, 52 106H. E. G. Tyndale, 57 95

elected hon. member of Alpine Club, 44131Ha.rper, C. J. S.: obit., 50 293

port., 50 296Hama, B. K.: 'Youth and the hills,' 55145Ha.rris, E. B.: obit., 47 135

port., 47 132Harris, P. Wyn :

, Mount Kenya,' 41 362note: Mount Kenya, 41 220

Harrison, H. E. B. :obit. of M. Pole, 52 275obit., 53 259

Hartley, G. W.: obit. & port., 52 268Hartley, J. W. :

tribute to H. S. Hoare, 42 299obit. & port., 44 110

Hartmann, H.: his Nanga Parbat diary,49220,223

Ha.skett-Smith, W. P.: 54 113tribute to G. Halltings, 53 70 .obit. of W. G. Collingwood, 45 150

W. A. Brigg, 50 124 .obit. & port., 55 416

Hasler, G. A. :'TheAlmers and their Fiihrerbiicher, 51 257'A few climbs With Christen Jossl,' 53 132, Hoc erat in votis,' 54 23, Two notable Oberlanders,' 54 161obit. of Christen Kaufmann, 51 130

Fritz Amatter, 58404Fritz Steuri, 58 121

presented with the Freedom of Grindel·wald,49128

ascs. of the Faulhorn, 61 333, 56 185, 403death, 58 530

Hasler, M.: obit. of P. Bernet, 51 319death, 54 78

Ha.ssreidter, V.: note: records oftha AlpineClub,41225

Hastings, G. : death, 53 70Hathi Parbat: ill., 50 67, 52 36, 45Hattel'lJlay-Smith, G.: • King George Is-

land,' 68 67Hawksley, J. C. :

'A short holiday in the mountains ofSinai,' 54 408

, Nordsaulo,' 57 481Hawley, Mt(Ca.nada) : Istaso.,40383, 41354Hawort.h I..ake (Canada): ill., 68 356Hayden, H. :

his book (with C. Cosson): Sport andTravel in the Highlands of Tibet, 40 205

Hayes, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 53 172Hazard, I. P.: obit., 68 76

Ha$d' J. e V.: obit. of I. P. Hazard,5 76

lIaz rcham ass (Persia): cr., 47 302He d, H. J.: obit. & port., 43 343He on, W.. : death, 53 264Hi" G.: hi book: Alpine FlOWN'S,42148He ,Albe :

etieth irthday,41 223oit.,4929p rt., 49 25

He' ,Arnol : his book (with A. Gansser):T n der Gatter, 50 163

He , Mt ( eland);1 t asc., 259

c., 40 8Hel ronner, P.: death, 51 137Hel ronner, ; tr. to Tour Ronde, 44 323Hel golalld: climbing in, 61 33Hel ardalsh thi Pass (Iceland): cr., 40 93Hel etia, . (Greeuland): 1st asc., 51UOHe derson, . W.: death, 43 179,427He derson, • A., rev. of The Tetons: inter-

p etations of a Mountain Landscape, 51154He y, Abb Joseph: obit. & port., 56 281He , P.: his book (with L. Devies): La

aine du Mont Blanc, ITI, 57 275He!burn, M L.: obit., 53 376He p, G.: is Nanga Parbat dia.ry, 49 220-1He bert, E .. :

o it. of S. J•• Pearce, 56 277i P. H. lditch, 57413! W. Sed wick, 58 395

He~betet, M : asc., 57 296i* winter, 49 127

H6Iiens, D d' :;Xoident: 1943: 54 316

i 1948: 56 406cll.,48 39

· by E. a ~te, 50 137, 58 523by W.• W. face, 42 323, 43 13

•by S.E. face, 41 413~t.of Mat erhorn ridge, 41 430, 65 220.. ,6613

W.N.W face, 43 12HeJ,lin,Jean Baptiste: 43 182He~mansdal . d (Lofoten): asc., 51 49He mit Ran e (Canada): ill., 54 155He ·ta.ge ( .Z.): 1st cr. from, to W.eoast,

234 ...He mon, M : asc., 40 339i .,4034

H ron gl. ( aska): 47 242He schel, S' John: & the Breithom, 57 298

.. , draw' gs by, 57 298-303He og, M.

:~napu a.,' 58 155· book: Annapurna, premier 8,000 m.,158420

Hi' rtley, C A.: 67100ected ho . member of Alpine Club, 44131oath, 48 359, 404bit.,57 67

Het.,,Wilso H.: note: Mountain rescue inace an war, 65 190

INDEX TO VOLUMES 3t to 58 35

from

enzori,' 63 309Heybroek, W.:

, Two Cauca.sia,1ljourneys,' 47 103•A second Cttucasian tramp,' 48 86

HeyWood, G. S. P.: his book: Ra.mbles inHong Kong, 51 157

Heywood, M. B.: obit. & port., 56 279Heywood, N. A.: death, 50 316Hicks, P. H. :

, Mount Kenya.-first a,soent of the Northface,' 55 76 •

, Ruwenzori: Mount Gessi revisited,' 56 17port.,5581

Hickson, Mt ~Canada): ill., 47 80-1Hidden Pk. (Gasherbrum I, Karakorum) :

attempted, 48 359iII., 39 215, 223, 231

Higravstind (Lofoten) : asc.,43 269-70, 5152Hill, F. W.: death, 47 367, 48 218Hills, J. D.: obit. of H. E. E. Howson,

46 188Hills, L. D.: his book: The Propa.gation of

Alpines, 57 578Himachal: 43 389Himalaya.: (see Specia,l List)

annual summary of expeditions:1936: 48 185. 3591938: 50 147, 3241939: 51139,3271947: 561881951: 58 2691952: 58 533

Himalayan Assa,ult: the French Hima,layanExpedition, 1936, rev. of, 50 349

Himalayan Committee: 56 202Himalayan JO\ll'1lal: rev. of No.1, 41 442Hima.layan nomenclature: 49 106Hingston, R. W. G. :

his book: A Naturalist in Himalaya, 393tl2rev. of Sport and Travel in the Highlan~B

of Tibet, 40 205Hinks, A. It. : obit., 55 216Hinton, H. A.: death, 49 271Hints to Travellilrs: rev. of, 50 352Hispar Pass: cr., 50 50Hispar Wall, the South: ill., 52201Hoare, H. S.: obit., 42 298

port., & Corbett's tribute, 43 179Hochblassen: ill., 46 77HoohfeUer: asc., 48 70

ill., 46 64-5Hoohfemer: by N.E. ridge, 48 69Hochgall: &So.,46 78 ..

i11.,4O 300Hochgebirgsfiihrer durch die Berner Alpen :

vol. iv, rev., 43 417vol. iii, rev., 44 160

Hochjoch: use of sledges on, 63 61Hochschwab: accident: 1937: 49 286Hochstetter Dome (N.Z.): aso., 42 348

on ski, 49 89Hochter: aocident: 1936: 48 375

ill, N. faoe, 44 248Rochtor group: 44 249Hochwanner: ten dttys on, 50 147

IIIIIIi

I!r:,i

III

i

Iii~ II' .. I\'-----------------t-t---.-------

:00",",.0 .•. , INDEXTOVOL::i':.:t:. omt of H. I. J",~., The American Karakoram expedition to 6 241

K 2,' 51 54 Hu ton,1\1t N.z.): 2nd asc., 41 234obit. ofN. R. Streatfield, &367

Houston, O. R..: 'Note on the Herronglacier,' 47 242

Howard, E.: obit. & port., 40 150Howard, G. E.:

, Illusions,' 39 258'A mountaineering family,' 55 134'Alpine Uplift,' 67 1

letter re' 57 564rev. of Postcript to Adventure, 57 588obit. of E. Howard, 40 150 (soo Perrons de

Howard, H.: death, 46 206Howard, J. W.: 'A few days on Mount

Kenya,' 65 284Howson, H. E. E.: death, 45 407,414

obit. & ports., 46 188Hualcan (Andes) : S. pk., 1st MC., & ill., 46 42Huandoy (Andes): 1st asc., 4542

ill., 45 40-1Huascaran (Andcs): 1st asc., 44 329, 45 40

1\1isspeck's supposed MC., 45 38ill., 45 36-8

Huber, E. : his book (with N. Rogers): TheComplete Ski Manual, 57 276

Huber, Mrs.: death,52 137Hug, 0.: obit. of H. Lauper, 48 '336HUhnerstock: asc., 43 120, &5244Hull, R. A.: &7 573

death. &7 253 'obit. & port., 57 415

Hiillehorn: 1st MO. by E. face, .0 168, 456Humble, B. H.: his book: On Scottish

Hills, li6 91Humboldt, Pioo (Venezuela) : 1st MC., 53127

ill••52 85, 63 130Humphreys, G. N.: 'Ruwenzori,' 39 99

rev. of Snow on the Equator, 50 153awal-dedMurchison Grant ofR.G.S., 45 402

Humphreys Pk. (California): 46 96Hungaboo (Canada): asc., 54 402Hunt, C. A.: 'Sketching in the Alps,' &2 1

paintings reproduced, 52 1,4,5,53 1Hunt, D. N. B.: death, 47 374 n.

obit. & port., 48 166Hunt,J. :

'The expedition to Peak K 36, 1935,'47282

'An expedition in the Sikkim Himalaya,'50109

'A winter expedition to the Zemu glacier,'63 194

• Pentedhaktilos, l 67 192, Mountains of the Near East,' &8203, Dauphine peaks in storm,' 68 226rev. of Escalades au Hoggar, 58 541

Hunter, Mt (Alaska): 47217,235,240Hunza: unknown passes in, 48 129Hurst, L. H.: 'Notes on climbing in Tunisia

and Cyprus,' 57 545note: expedition to Ala Dag, 1945, 55222

Praraye, 1951, 58 275

,'(

Irving, R. L. G. :rev. of Blue Guide to Switzerland, 57 113

Travellers in Switzerland, 57 265l\lontagnes ma Vie, 57 272La Montagne n'a pas voulu, 57273Montagnards, 57 273La Vallee de Saas, 57 273Alpiuisme et Competition, 57 433Vocation Alpine, 57 575Challenge, 57 576Trois Cures en Montagne, 68 146Traveller's Prelude, 58 148L' Amateur d' Abimes, 58 278Contes a Pic, 68 279Au Coeur des Alpes, 68 280Armapurna, premier 8,000 m., 68 420Speaking of Switzerland, 58 426Zum dritten Pol. Die Aohttausender cler

Erde, 68 548on ~AJpineUplift, 57 573obit. of H. E. G. Tyndale, 56 386his essay: 'The Mount,ains Shall Bring

PClWe,'mentioned, 56 79Iseran, Col d': road opened, 49 277Isere, Val d': occurrence of manganesl'

near,43 151Ishkoman, Upper: 46344

ill., 46 345, 47 321Isolated Pk. (Canada): asc., 46 84, 55 67IsolOO,L': asc., 43 238Israel: mte of, 40 338Istor,o-Nal: attempts, 42 131, 47374

1935 attempt, 48 118ill., 48 118-19

Italian Alps: closing of, 39 207, 41 I, 398,41 218,260,418,42 lI9, 337, 43 179,881,44 131, 329, 45 156, 397

facilities for, 46 207, 220Italians, Pt•. of the (Cauoasus): asc., 42 287Ixtaccihuatl (Mexico): 45 93

ill., 45 94-5

JAOKSON,A. D.: death, 64 50Jackson, E. W.: her book: Switzerland

Calling, 39 368Jackson, James: death, 39 205Jackson, W. S.: death. 66 184Jacquemot, General: death, 43 392Jacques, A.: his book: Ski de Descente,

57427 -Jagerhorn: aso., 40 393, 53 282

tr.,43 11Jitgerjooh: or., 47 360, 53 286 .Jitgihom (Baltschieder): S.E. ridge, 44 277

ill, 44 277-8, 28()....IJagta (Norway): MC., 58 223

ill., 66 222Jahn, A.: his ascs. in Venezuelan Andes,

63130Jailik (Cauoasus): S. face, 1st aso., 49 276,

50 20 .ill., 50 21

37

Jaloveo: !N. face, 1st asc., 40 179

ill., 40162' 179James, C. AS.hwo h.. : death, 49 271James, M H. (Mis ): death, 51 J.37.Tamnotri Hlmala ll.): 55176Janga (C ucasus):

tr.,43 00by N. Ii ce, 46 1 1E. pk., aso., 49 1ill., 46~13' 49 8 I, 50 29

N. £. e (1935 oute),46 112-13Jannu: 1 .,4220-JaRanes~ps (se also Special List): 5625

Ill., 41 -18 -Jardin, guille d :

tr. to 'guille V rte, 39 143,52 139by a n route, 1 60

Jaun, An reas: hrerbuoh, 57219Jaun, Jo nn: F' rerbuch, 57318Javelle, his b vouao, 52 142

ill.,52 29.Tazzi,Ci a di: a c., 47 248, 63 283, 66 132,

58470 ,Jeffery, T T.: rie th, 52 284Jefferv,

rev: of .M.C. Guide, Glencoe & Ardgour,5727 I

obit. of R. ConY, 53 158Jenkins, . S.: d th, 42 337Jenkins, . L.: 0 it. of G. M. Bell, 56 173Jenldns, . C.: 0 it., 46 191

port., 188Jenkins, . R. :

'A ligh expedi ion to the Central Cau-casus' 1937, 12

, TribUi to par rersbip,' 53 95note: aucasus 1937,49276

the lte Mr.. V. M. Barry, 50 151the I te Mr. bert L. Beaumont, 50

31Ref e Cheva 'er, 50 326

l'ev. of lountai ring, 53 178Mou tain Ph tography, 65 335

death, 8190obit., 174port., 178

Jenny, E.: death, 52284Jesih, P. Miss):

'Trigla! North face: Buttress or SImlarouter' 42 84

Joch Passl: Memo 'al,cairn on, 54206Joffre, M~t(Canad ): Ill., 42 70Johns, W G.: ob t., 63 163

port., 162Johnson,!.: dea h, 39 144, 206Jones, H.fO': & t e Italian side ofMt Blanc,57137

Jones, J. H. Eml : 'Adventures in Ex-haustio ,. 57 17

Jonsong ~a (Hima ya): cr., 42 217ill., 42 16, 221

Jonsong k.: 1st c., 42 2202nd ascj, 42 222ill., 42 ~2o-1, 46 129

38

JorllSses, Grandes :accidents: 1931: 43 406

1934: 46 420E. face, 1st asc., 63 390

2nd asc., 58 131early ascs., 43 68N. face:

attempts, 40 404banned, 47 157

asc., 1st, 47 356, 48 732nd, 48 753rd,48 76

Pte Walker, 1st, 50 302asc., 57 259

N.E. ar~te: 1st asc., 40 404, 41 203aBC.,57 244, 397

in March, 58 2951st British guidclcss, 58 519

RE. (Tronchey) arete :supposed 1st o.sc.,40 403. 41 2201st asc., 48 360

S.S.E. face, asc., 41 220tr., 1st W.-E., 42 342, 43 63, 46 412

W.·E., 45 406ill., 43 64-5, 48 75-9

N. face, 43 63, (1935 route) 47 356 &;48 74, 58 328

Jorasscs, Col des Grandcs :desc. of French side, 53 171st cr. &; subsequent controversy, 53 82,

57320Jorasscs, Petites: asc., 39 142

N.W. face, 1st asc., 41 430,42 101ill., 39 142, 4053

Jorasses, Tour des: 1st asc., 43 367ill., from S. (1931 route), 43 368

.Jose, T. P. H.: obit., 42 299Joseland, H. L. :

• The Kebnekaise district, Sweden,' 41 355note: climbing in Sweden, 40 405

Swedish mountaineering clubs, 41 419rev. of Andreegatan, 47 179obit. &; port., 57 241

.Joseph Croux, Aiguille: by a novel itinerary,52139

J ossi, Christian:his olimbs with Hasler, 53 132Spencer's appreciation, 53 187summary of Fuhrerbuch, 63 187 n.ports., 53 134, 191

Jossi, Ohristian (sohn) :his career, 54 161port., 53 191, 54 162

Jostedalsbraeen (Norway): 47272ill., 47 276-7

Jotunheim: accident; 1939: 51 342Joyce, J. B.; 'A Mountain School,' 54443

'In the Dolomites with an Orientalist,'55 362

Jubilee, Mt (Canada): 1st asc., 47 291Julian Alps: 44 78, 49 104, 50 90

1927 season, 40179accident: 1932: 45 158huts in, 50 91

Juli~n, Mt ( nada): 1st IISC.by N.E. face

~

259, 67ill ,43 259

Juli n, Mt St (Canada): 1st aBC., 43 169Jum aux de altournanche, Les :

~. Giord no: 1st asc. by E. face,.44 121illj, E. (1931 route), 44 120

Jumrok&l.1 ( ulgaria): aBc.,46 159illl,46 160

Junr;.au:aqoidents: 1931: 43 409

! 1936: 48 368, 372 n.! 1948: 56 406

1s.'by • face, 45 384from N. 42 3, 45 44, 46 390 (desc.),

52 12 , 53 100, 103, 143, 55 313, 361,5716

by N.E. arete: 40 175, 48 360, 50 312,· 53 9,388! attain from N., 44 325. 48 161

&; Ro brettgrat, 42 327,375i by N.W face, 43 376i by Rot ttgrat, 52 285!from talsattel,43 121, 55 247Iby S. fi e, 1st direct, 40 165'winter, 134, 54 28IFritz S uri's I,OOOth,52284,53 175

r~kfall jj m N.E. arete, 49 280, 50 145T i.OIY&; Pilkington routes (1862). 40

357T mlaten aI, desc. to, 44 57 .i .,6212 7

S. face, 0 165-61862 ro tes, 40 358from E. 40359, (various routes) 45 384from N•• ,57 17N.W. fa 6 (1931 route), 43 376N. face (1932 route), 44 325 &; 45 48,

(1926 route) 45 44, (various routes)45 62

N.E. ar te, 45 58, 50 141 .'.seene 0 1931 accident, 43 410

Jun8fraujoc :ct., 39 50

in 1889, 39 340, 40 188tier res arch party, 50150h story, 49r ehed fi m Rotbrett hut, 53 387

Ju omkara Caucas:us): from S.E., 50 22I .'

I

K: ~mpts American expedition (1938),5154

· Ameri expedition (1939), 51 328,i 5228· propos Italian expedition (1929), 40

399, 1429

~

I ight, 42 202istory,5 54• face, 46

ili1.,39 21 31, 5042-7, 51 54-64-K ~6: 1935 attempt, &; ill., 47 282

\I

Ii

INDEX TO VOLUME." 3. to 58

Kabru: asc., 48 182Kagami, T. Y.: 'The South-east face of

Mont Maudit,' 42 288Kallas Parbat (Tibet): tour of, 40 23

reconnaissance, 55 316ill., 40 23-7

Kain, Conrad :his book: Where the Clouds can go,

46 413, 47 382his last 1st &80., 48 403obit. & port., 48 195

Kaisergebirge: 48 77Kaiser, Wilder: accident: 1930: 42 349Kakartoq Napasudleraq (Greenland): &8C.,

68200ill., 58 194-5

Kalbermatteu, Theodor: obit., 57 92Kalken: 68 266Kalkkogel: 41 299

asc., 53 345ill., 41 299

Kalli gl.: accident: 1936: 48 374Kaltber range (Cauoasus): ill., 48 96Kamet, Mt:

1931 exped., 1st asc., 43 289 (see also45 427)

summary of, 43 306attempt by soldiers (1937), 49 239poem (G. Yeld), 49 241ill., 43 188, 289-307, 49 238-9, 50 67,

78Kangohenjunga :

accidents: 1930: 42 3631931: 43 412

attempts:l!'armer (1929), 42 363Bavarian (1929), 42 73, 185Internationa.l (1930), 42 131, 202

correspondence re, 43 217, 426Bavarian (1931),43189, 397,44 13

cost of, 44 139history, 42 204N.E. spur, height of, 45 166ill., N.E. face & spur, 42 185

N.E. spur, 42 192-5, 44 14-15N. ridge, 42 210N.W. ridge, 42 214-15from Jonsong Pk., 42 202from Jonsong La, 42 217from Sugar Loaf, 44 21various: 42 74, 2111 44 16-22

Karagom (Caucasus): &8OS., 47 113ill.,47115

Karakorum (see also Special List) :name, origin of, 39 237Italian exped., 40 399, 41 429International (1934), 48 219, 413British (1938), 51 231British (1939), 51 139,328,52195

Karakorum Pass:. 39 237Karambar g1. (Gilgit): 48 345Kara Tingai Tau (Pamirs): ill., 41 265Karohkal (Caucasus): ill., 48 286-7Karl Marx Pk. (Pamirs): aso.: 57 186

39

41360

0.,63343 .ka): let &80., &6141

ael): 40339

MOil., 40 405,

314,

.: obit. & port., 41 193obit. of Q. W. Ha.rtleY',

64, 47 369, 63 173, 309,

------,----------------.-------.-----------

I I

40 INDEX TO VOLUMlJiJ8 39 ~68

Kenya, Mt : Ki~' anjaroascs.: ..

Batiall: 2nd,41 220,366 Kibo.,so.'tary, 46 205by W. ridge, 57 94 'I by S. ace, new ro.ute,50 149

Dutton Pk.: 1st, 43 139 Mawenz,43 145,50 149MidgetPk.: 1st, 43 144 1st by a lady, 40 77N. face: 1st, 56 76 list o.f to 1927,40 84, 454

desc., 57 94 height, 445Nelio.n: Ist.,41 220,366 ill., 40 7 -9Pt. Jo.hn: 1st, 42 118 Kil et.bashi CaucasUll): 1st asc., 46 224Pt. Lenana: 63 311, 54 78 Ki , H. S.: o.bit.& port., 46 176Pt. Peter: 1st, 43 139,55 285 Kin , S. L.: relics o.ffatal accident·faund,Pt. Piggott: 1st, 43 144,5794 3 164,40195S. face: 1st, 55 400 Kin, S. W., r. & Mrs.: travels in Graians,Sendeya: Ist,43 144 5 255

tr., 55 284 Kin GeorgeIsland: exped. to, 58 67Tereri: tr., 55 285 Kin '8 Pk. ( laska): ill., 39 22various: 42 H8, 60 324, 53 215, 55 286 Ki spitz (E gelhorner): 1st asc.by E. face,

history, 55400 48 861ilL, correctian re, 48 184 cident: 1988: 50 836N. fa.ceexplared, 42 117 Kir patrick, W. T. :Twin Pks., Jst tr., 43 138 • arters I have knawn,' 46 154ill., N.E. face, 41 366 . baok: AlpineDays and Nights, 44 374

fram N.W., 47 372-3 0. it. af R. P. Hape, 42 303Nelian, S.E. face, 63 212 0. it., 63 1 0fram S.W., 63 312-13 p rts.,48 32,53 158fram S., 63 312-13 Kir us, C. F :N. face (ro.utes),5&sO h boak: Let's go Climbing,53 276S. face (rautes), 5&404-5 a it., 54 3 3-variaus,41 364-5,43 140-5,53 216-17, Ki r (Parte): death, 4925

313 Kit hener, t (Canada): 1st asc., 48 291Kerkeslin, Mt (Canada); 1st Mc., 40 197 Ki urtli K (Caucasus): attempt, 42 133Kerling Massif(Iceland): 48 320 Ki a, Mt ( nada): Ist asc., 41 238Kern River Calian: 41 331' Kj rringa ( o.rway): asc. & ill., 40 176Kerr, Mt (Canada): asc., 55 67 Kle ner Soh eizer-Chronick: extracts from,Kasch, Piz: ski ase., 51 148 129Kasselspitze: asc., 41 301 KIa ketind ILofo.ten): asc., 51 50Kesteven, T. L.: Klu hevska a, Mt (Kamchatka): pro.po.sed

o.bit.af G. H. Marse,43 334 expediti n,42 339C. Wilsan, 50 122 1 t asc., 132

abit. & port., 52 116 Kl ker, Ch . tian :Khampar Pks. (Yasin): ill., 47 319 s bo.o.k: El'rinerungen eines Berg-Khan Tengri (Tien Shan): attempt, 48 363 ffihre 's,43 196Khardang La (Kashmir): cr., 39 211 Advent res af an Alpine Guide, 44 148Kharta Changri (Himalaya): asc., 48 9 r cavery, 0405

ill., 48 13 a N.E. f e af Lyskamm, 40 116Khartaphu (Himalayas) :. asc., 48 7 a N. are af Piz Badile, 63 19Khianistra (Cyprus): 58 207 a it. & P .,41 198Khrumko.ltau (CaUC/l.llUB):tr., 42347 ematial a, & ilt, 42 123-4Kichkidar (Caucasus): tr., 50 19 Kn ts far 0 'mbers: 40 120,340

ill., 50 20 il ., 40 12 -33,347Kidd, J. H.: death, 43 381, 44 173 Kn wltan, .: her baok: The NakedKidineisMagali (Oaucasus): 1\ountain, 46 237

S. ar~te, 1st tr., 48 105 Ko tser, D.. : death, 46403,47 195Ki/llapait Mts (Labrador): 46 37 Ka an, G.: his book (with N. Leininger) :Kilimanjara : rdillere Blanche, 58 542

ascs. : Ko.Gasa (J pan): asc., 41 19Gihnan Pk., 46 206, 50 324 Ka ler, Mellhio.r: death, 53 387Kaiser Wilhelm Spitze, 46 206, 47 369 Ka sukur-b hi (Pamirs) : aBC.an ski, 41157Kiba, 43 146, 50 149 Kal hai, Mt (Kashmir): aBC•• 39 79, 58 533

1st by a lady, 39 339, 40 80 .. , 39 84carrespandence re, 40 82, 454 Ko. haja (0 UCIlBUS):aSC.,42 346

2nd by a lady, 40 455 Ko tatau ( aucasUll): 1st asc., 48 115list af, to 1927,4084,454 Ka,ciBta, K eine (Tatra): asc., 48 21

LABRADR (see wlso Special List): 43 394,48 7

ill., 48 26--33Lac Bla c, Aigui e du; ilL, 67 164-5Lacey, .:

rev. 0 Britain' Mountain Heritage, 54 86Lak land H liday, 54 87

Lachsi ( ikkim): 1st asc., 60 271Ltdd, . S.:

note~. Americ n expeditions, 44 334Am i Machi range, 46 160

obit. fA. Car e, 44 291death, 57 255, 41

Ladtjo I (Swed ): ill., 50 249Le.dtjoj ure, Lak (Sweden): ill., 41 359Lady Cl mbers: arly, 5451, 68 184 .Lagarde, J.: his ok; Guide Vallot, vol. iv,

42 37~Lago, ~da da: ascs., 46327,6329, &4119

ill., 23Lagrev, iz: 66 12

by W., face, 46 385Lahul ~. cs., in, 62 135

ill.,5 239LaiIa C in (Can asus): ill., 60 28Lakelan Fella: ircuits of, 41 50L&loue, .:

his b ok (wit L. Devies): Guide duM if des E rins, 56 435, 58 541

Lama O~ROngbU Monastery: death, 68 530Lama nden ( ikkim): 1st Me., &4 82';5537

Lamb, R.: obit. 40 159Lamme~ E. G.: his book: Wie anders ist

das B¢steigen er Alpen geworden, 49 297

VOLU MES ~9 to 581 41

KUnigk'~· .: 'T e German-American Hima-layan xpeditio , 1932,' 44 192

Kunyan gl. (Kalakorum); 51 239ill., 61f240

KnpoIat u (Cau asus): 1st asc., 49 270,6021

Kurmichli (Cauc us); asc.,42 132-3Kurz, Jo~ph: 4 426Ku1"l.,Luis:

his bo ks: G 'de de 180 Chaine du MontBane (3rd ed.), 39 364

Gui e de I ChaJne du Mont Blanc(4 h cd.), 7390

death, 63 386.Knrz, arcel : 'Maurice Crettez, 1872-

194 ,'58 30not·e: Piz Pal' , N. face, 43 385his bo ks: G 'de des Alpes VaIaisannes,

v I. ii, 41 41, 453Be ina·Filh er, 44 376Gui e des pes Valaisannes, vola. 1 &

1 1,6016Gui e du Sk eur dans les Alpes Valais-

a es, vol. 1 & 2, 55 335Gui e des A es Valaisannes, vola. IlIa

&! lllb, 6 541

INDEX TO

Konigsspitze :ascs. :

by N.E. face, 53 3521st by Via Direttis8ima, 43 177

3rd, 50 148from Ktlnigsjoch, 53 347tr. by N.W. arete & S. face, 53 356

Korea, Climbs in, 43 103Kosa gl.: & route towards GaUfi Parbat,

5241ill., 52 36

Koshi, Mt (Formosa): aso., 48 336Koshtantau (Caucasus) :

accident: 1888; 47 160by S.E. arete & new desc., 42 347N. a'rete: 1st asc., 42 102

attempted, 48 223S.W. face: 1st asc., 48 110E. arete; asc., &8134tr. by W. & N. aretes, 49 83ill., 48 110

N. arete, 48 221N.E. faoe & E.arete, 48 224from S.W., 48 112

Krause, E.:his book (with V. Vareschi): Mountains in

Flower, 62 156Krenek, L.: note; Lahul expedition, 1939,62135

Kretschmer, H. E.: death,68 191obit., 68 181

Kroeber, F.: death. 40 179Krokbammertind (Lofoten): asc., 61 49Kronig, St: his book: Familien-Statistik

und Gesohichtliches iiber Zermatt, 40 434Krtlnte: by S. face, 48 175

ill.,48176-7Krottenkopt', Gross: asc., 53 341Krumkholbashi (Caucasus): 2nd asc., 49 83

ill., 49 81Kuffner, M. von: obit., 61 311

port., 51 310Kugy, J.:

his books: Die Julischen A1pen im Bilde,48 237

Alpine Pilgrimage, 48 428Anton Oitzinger: oin Bergfiihrorleben,

48194Son of the Mountains, 50 154Fiinf Jahrhunderte Triglav, 60 1001m Gottlichen Llicheln des Monte Rosa,

53 174 .Ans vergangener Zeit, 56 333

elected hon. member of Alpine Club,46 406

80th birthday, SO 320obit., 54 293ports., &4289, 65 334

Kukur Gap (Sikkim): reached, 49 43Kulaktau (Caucasus): 1st tr. of 3 pks., 42

104Kulu: 53323

ill., 62 234--9, 53 328-9Kumaon; ill., passes, 40 28-9

42 INDEX TO VOLUMfB 39 to/58

Lamp~k group (G~t'hwa.l): climbs in, &854Lampugnani, G. :

his book (with G. B. & G. F. Gug1iermina) :Vette: Ricordi di Esplorazioni e NuoveAscensioni sulle Alpi, 40 211

L~msenjochspitze: by W. f~ce, 46 77Lancaster, G. H.: obit., 57 560Lo,ne, F. C.: his book: The Story of

Mount~ins, 58 138Langford-James, R. L.: obit., 57 89Langkofel: aso., 45 274, 47 269, 53 26

ill., 47 270-1Langstrandtinder (Lofoten): asc., 61 52L~nguard, Piz: aIlC.by octogenarian, 50 327Languepin, J. J.:

his book (with L. Payan): Nanda Devi:3· Expedition Fran~ a. I'Him~laya,58429

Lo.nin, Pic (Andes): 1st aso., & ilL, 45 328Lapensee, Mt (Canada); lat aac., 40 196La Perouse (N.Z.): asc.,46 284Lapland, Arctio: 50 248La.pporten Pass (Lap1o.nd): cr., 50 255Laquinhom: asc., 43 122, 50 327

by W. face, 1st direot, 43 374ill., W. face (1931 route), 43 375

La.quinjoch: or., 45 383, 52 65Largo, Cima del: &80.,43 377, 55 15Lashar Plain (Himalaya): 46 129Lashkarak Kuh (Persia): &80.,47 307Latham, F.: death, 39 353L~uener, Johann: death, 55 57Lauper, H.:

• The Mittellegi or E. arete of the Eiger,'41282

• Bietsohhorn,' 4249,236•The North faoes of Jungfra.u, Monoh, and

Elger,' 41 44•The South face of the B1Umlisalp,' 47 86note: winter mounta,ineering, 46 217

Mountaineering film, 47 155 .rev. of Erlebnisse und Gedanken eines

alt{ln Bergsteigers, 1880-1930, 44 161obit., 46 336port., 48 333memorial to, 48 404

Laupersbjoerg (Greenland): &8C.,51 109ill., 51 108-9

Ll1uteraargra.t :attempt, 40 239supposed 1st tr., 40243 n., 41 224tr., 44 60, 55 354ill., 44 60

Lautet'aarhom :aooident; 1949: 57248from Schrecksa.ttel, 53 387ill., 40 240-1

Lauterbrmmen, valley of: ill., 40 269Lavaredo, Tre Cime di:

Cima. Grande (Grosse Zinne): by N. face,45 373, 53 29, &8132

by Dulfer route, 58 132accident; 1933: 45 418ill., 58 328-9

Lav~edo, Tl' Cime di :Oi a Oed entale (Westliehe Zinne): by

• fuce, 7 373, 48 182C'. a Picc Ill. (Kleine Zinne): by N. face,

4632 ,5328,54 147, 55 280!accident: 1935: 47374lill., 53 2

qma. Picc lissima (Kleinste Zinne): ill.,, 5322

La\der, R. .:• tor-o-n : the 1935 attempt,' 46 lISo it. of D. N. B. Hunt,48 166

La ford, Be son: • The Valley of the Orbe,'5 367o it., 57 8

rt.,57 4La rence, Tomas: & Switzel'land, 55 4ULa ton, E .. ; death, 42 336

'stan ( 'a Minor): exoursion to, 44 333La f, W.:

's autob ography: Walter Leaf, 1852-: 1927, 375

~

it. & ft., 39 123. h, Mt ( ckiee): asc., 41 429, 42 48.Le anon: 73Le !Blond, ubrey (Mrs.) :

jbit. of ss K. Richardson, 40 160bit. & P rts., 46 382

Le lere, J. B. :heir k : Guide de Tarentaise et

Maurie ne, 57 436Le roy, Mt Canada):

ocident 1927: 40 198

*.,468

L ma.nn, .T.:v. of S iss Life and Landsca.pe, 57 267

! Les AI ee Vaudoises, 57 577i La Ju gfrau, 57 577i J.•es Gl ders, 67 577bbit. of • H. Ellis, 55 208blected on. member of Diablerets sec-I tion, .A.C., 57 101

J4ighton, .: 54 203'terspitz: by W. arete, 47 144ilL, 47 1 (jith, R .. C.: obit., 49 115ndenfel , Mt (N.Z.): &8c.,44 142,45 170tr., 39 1 7,284ill., 41 3 2, 45 307ndenfel Saddlc (N.Z.): ilL,41 303nin, P' : (see Kaufma.un, Mt)nzs):!itz :acelden : 1941: 53266N.E. fa e, solitary asc., 47 153

1st d so., 55 103tr. to N elbom, 56 27ill., E. rete, grea.t gendarme, 41 316

from alfrinhorn, 41 324N.E. ace (1911 & 1933 routes), 47 155

Ileone, M nte: asc., 43 121i 1st as. by N.N.W. face direct from

Kalt a.sser gl., 40168neo Pargi I (Himalaya): 1st asc., 46 319

ilL,48 17

43

Rescue

on Mount Everest,

INDEX TO VOLUMES ~9 to 58

Leopold III, H.M. King:elected hon. member of Alpine Club,

47149,401Leschaux, Aiguille de :

1st aBC.by N.W. face, 39312, 40 51tr.,39143ill., N.W. face, 39 313, 4051

Leviona, Colle di: 1st cr., 68 260Lex, Pigue de la: 1st asc., 41 229

deso. by E. face, 54 21Leyden, A. R.: • Bandar Punch reoonnais-

sance,' 56 173!.ho La (Himalaya): reached, 48 10

ill.,68 109Lhonak Pit. (Himalaya): Ist asc., 43 187

from S., 46 130!.hotse: ill., 68 108Lialver (CaucaBus): aBC.,42 133, 48 364

tr_, 41 167N.E. face, deso., 48 HI

Lightning: accidents :from, 41 435dangers of, 44 28, 36-7, 40, 338Struok by (Finzi's paper), 49 65

Ligonoio, Pizzo: &5 16Liklo (Himalaya): N. pk., aBC.,4943

ill., 49 48Likoumt, Dj. (Atlas): aBc.,45114Linard, Piz: accident: 1931: 43 412Lindley, A. D.: 'Mt McKinley revisited,'

45 85Lindsay, M.: a.wa.rded the Murchison grant

of R.G.S., 50 317Ling, W. N.:

, Technioalities,' 41 287'Acoidents,' 44 24, The years. between: days to remember,'

55 279rev. of Die Eroberung des Kaukaaus,

45173obit. of H. Raeburn, 39 126

G. Sang, 43 166J. W. Brown, 50 298W. G. Johns, 53 163G. A. Solly, 53 374J. M. Davidson, 57 404P. J. H. Unna, 68 116W. Garden, 68 120

Lion, Col du: cr., 39 44correction, 39 155

3rd cr., date of, 68 184 n.4th cr., 67 535aac. of N. slope, 42 342ill., 39 37, 45

Lion, Tete du: from N., 39 155Lister, W. T.: obit. & port., 54 f31Liszt, Fl'anl/;: his visit to Chamonix, 66

127Livingstone Pk. (N.Z.): 1st aBC.,45 308Ljubotin, Mt (Yugoslavia): asc., 39 95, 42

53Uambrion, Torre de (Spain): aso., 46 68-9Uiwedd: accident: 1937: 49 123

aBCS.,53 116, 54 248-9ill., 53 121

I

I'II

~ J

44 INDEX TO VOLUM,ES 39

Longstaff, T. G. :'Twenty yeMs after,' 40 281, Lessons from the Mount Everest Expedi-

tion of 1933,' 46 102'The Shores of Baffin Bay,' 47 49Valedictory Address, 67 281his book: This my Voyage, 57591rev. of Among the Kara-Koram Glaciers

in 1925, 39 186The Italian Expedition to the Himalaya,

Karakoram, and Eastern Turkestan(1913-1914), 44 363

Nanga Parbat Adventure, 47 390Mountain Prospeot, 56 89Two Mountains and a River, 57428

obit. of C. G. Bruce, 52 104Aurel Stein, 54 287A. R. Rinks, 65 216H. J. Mackinder, 56 72A. Burr, 5791E. J. Garwood, 67 239B. E. M. Gurdon, 57 407

awarded Founder's Medal ofR.G.S., 40 399elected hon. member of G.H.M., 41 220

Longsta.ff's Col (Garhwal): cr., 49 25ill., 5336

Lookout, Mt (N. America.): ill., 45 139Lorria, A.: 47 249Ll>tschen1il.cke: or., 40 43

on ski, 49 172, 54 29LOtschental: ill., 65 261Louis, Mt (Canada): asc., 43 265, 46 86,

55 70ill., 43 264, 66 65

Low, Mt (Ca.nada): 1st asc., 43 79, 169ill., 43 77

Low, It. S.: obit. ofE. Teichelmaun, 51126obit., 88 399

Luca.nla, Mt (N. Amerioa): 1st asc., 60 95ill., 48 81, 50 102-3

Luft, U.: •The disaster on Nanga Parbat,1937,' 49 216

Lukas, H.:his book: Der Krieg an Kii.rntens Grenze,

1915-1917,50161Lunn,A. :

'Alpine mystioism and cold philosophy,'61284

'The Wordsworths and Switzerland,'54 282

, TlWgwalder and the Matterhorn,' 55 290'Alpine puritanism,' 67 341note: concerning an acknowledgement,

61 331Coleridge and Mont Blanc, 55 315Switzerland revisited, 65 226

his books: A History of Ski-ing, 40 206(editor), British Ski Year Book, 1927,40207

Fa.mily Name, 44 159Come what may. An autobiography,

53 74Mountain Jubilee, 54 208Switzerland a.nd the English, 54 450

Lu~,A.:hlB books Switzerland in English Prose

and oetry, 56 192i Mounta s of Memory, 57 104I The Or Ie of Switzerland, 58 539

rtfv. of G ide du Skieur dans les AlpesValaisa es, Vols. I & II, 55 335

a; arded Knighthood, 58 532Lu ghin, Pi : 56 13Lu uh and Hunza: 48 124Ly n gl. (Oa llda): 39 54

r treat of, 44 273Ly n, Mt (0 nada): 39 56

cs., 39 7 seq.iI., 39 56 7

:Ly n Iceflel : ill., 39 52-3, 57Ly Oreek (Canada): ill., 48 381Ly kamm:

ertrude 11'sasc., 41 279.E. face: asc., 44 330

i history 40 115: Klucke on 1st asc., 40 116~r.,43 14 53 139, 286,65 283

i by N. ( r N.W.) buttress, 47 359W. sum 't: 1st aso. by N.E. face, 39 314l,by N•• face, 44 126i~., N.E. ace (1890 & 1927 routes), 39 314,

i & 40 115

t'R. aret , 41 280-1

Ly , Val de: accident, 49 127Ly ons, Ma k: accident to, 45 168, 306

eath, 54439

M,iAIGUILL DE L': acoident: 1932: 44 345M borasu ( ormosa): asc., 46 340M Arthur k. (N. America): ill., 57 485

cartney, H. J.: death, 53 169McCarthy A. H.: 'The ascent of Mount

n,' 91M Coubre A. A.: obit., 53 382M cdonaldj C. A. :

IThe d¥cent of tho North face of theEiger,' 40 329

tote: J ngfraujooh, 39 340leoted on. member of Alpine Olub,5796

obit., 67 400M~cdonald H. 1\1.: death, 47 367, 48 218M~cdonald J. Y.:

rote: t e Compass: a warning to photo-graph ra, 51 142

M cdonal , R. J. S.: port., 55 252M cdonal , S.: 'Kilimanjaro in 1927,' 40 77

~

Donne (Canada): asc., 65 38, 41ill., 65 3ace~oni~: ill., 46 295achm, CJ B.:note: SlM.C. guide to Isle of Skye, 57260acintyre~ N.: his book: Attack on.Everest,l 49 131

Mlack,Grert (N.Z.): asc.,44 142MtackenziC

rEvan: death, 48 179, 219

I

-------+-+---.---.

45Mackenzie, John: obit., 46 198Mackinder, H. J.: obit., 56 72Mcl{inley, Mt: 47 19, 58257

accident: 1932: 44 357, 45 162asc., 53 388, &480

2nd., 45858. & S.W. faoes, 47 215from the air, 44 275, 55 351ill., 44 275, 388, 45 86-91

Maokintosh, A. J. :rev. of Cambridge Mountaineering, 1934,

48438retirement, 47 159death, 52 284-

Macleod's Ma.idens (Skye): ill., 54 345Maoph.ee,G. G. :

'Adula & Oberland: personal reminis·cenoes,' 55 240, 352

obit. of L. R. Wilberforce, &4434MaoPherson, W. D.: • Olimbs from the

Friinden hut,' 51 98MaoRobert, H. :

• Climbing in Scotland,' 45 259, Ski mountaineering in Scotland,' &4127rev. of A.Oamera in the Cairngorms, 56 304

S.M.C. guide to Southern HigWands,57430

Undisoovered Sootland, 58 150Arran with Camera and Sketchbook,

58425obit. of F. S. Goggs, 53 162

R. A. Brown, 65 306Miidelegabel: asc., 53 340Madier, Andeol: death,52 141Madod gI.: ill., 47 101Madonna, the: ill., view from, 43 246Madonna, Cima delIa: accident, 60 149Mae·Hodaka (Japan): asc., 41 12Magowan, J. E.: 'Knots for climbers,'

40120,340Mahuil Malal Pass (Andes): ill., 45 330Maiktoli Pks. (Himalaya): asc., 47 73,

54 405--6ill., S. Pk., 54 405

MaiUart, E.: her book: 'Ti-Puss, 58 553Ma~ Divide CN.Z.): ill., 43 84MlUtre, J.: death,39 144,206Major, Col: 1st cr., 45 365, 51 186Majorca: walks in, & ill., liO 239Makins, G. H.: obit. & port., 46 180Makalu: ill., 43 3, 48 3Malaspina gl. (Alaska): area of, 47 15Maloolm, A. D. : note: from Garhwal, 56292Maligne Lake (Canada): 4246-7

climbs from, 41 340Pk. W. of, 1st asc., 41 429

Maligne Pks.: tr.,43 260Mallet, Mt: aso., 48 138

by N.W. areta, 43 365, 45 233ill., from N.W. (1931 route), 43 366

Mallory, G. H. J..•.: early climbs, 54 258Mallory, Mt (California): 40 415

asc., 40 416ill., 40415

~----------'-- ---II"INDEX TO VOLUMES ~9 to sal

! I

Maloja drags: illl.,56 45Malta B~un, Mt (N.Z.): MC., 39 273, 342,

42 3481 44 142Mana P~: 1st a c., 50 72

ill., 50 67, 73, 8Manaresi A. : his book: Parole agli

Alp' isti, 46 34electe hon. me bel' of Alpine Club, 45 404

Manaslll: reconn issance, & ill., 58 102MandaWl P. G.: eath,51 342Mandani1Parbat: 1st asc., 61 82Manjoho Mt (Ko ea): aso., & ill., 43 108Mankial sukai ( wat): aso., 53 319

ill., 53 320-1 "Manneri g, G. E.I:

•The saster 0 the Tasman glacier,' 42 136his bo k: Eig ty Yoars in New Zealand,

&44 7e1eotedhon. me bel' of Alpine Club, 48 219obit., 264

Mantnca Pta.: st aso. by S. faoe, 43 362Manuel Alpinis e: rev. of, 46 239Maps: n w, of G at Britain, 61 140

of Swi zel'land, 1 141Alpine of Aegi ius Tschudi, 48 146

Maquign z, Mme obit., 51 131ports., 1 129

Maquign z, Ange port., 61 129Maquign z, Danie : memorial to, 39 341Maqui z, J. B. death, 57 96Maquign z, Jean· oseph: dl'ath, 50 320

port., 318M/trble all (Tien Shan): asc., 57 185Marcel P (N.Z.: 43 90, 44 142

ilI.,46 07Marchrei sen Spit : asc., 41 300Margna, iz delIa 55 12Marindin G. E.: 41 7

obit.,5 113Markasit rm (Ta ra): aso., 48 18Markbrei 1', C.. : obit. of A. E. Field,

57402Marmolalla :

accide t: 1938~' 50 337S. faoe

aso., 2 7, 45 73Is ., 50 152 53 344-

vari ion on, 14t,r.,5 27ill., 271, 41

Marmot, he: 51145Marona ( ameroo s): MO. of Mindif Pk.,57101

Marpo (Karak rum): or., 39 222-3ill.,39 14-

MarpOl~et (Can a): asc., 46 84, 55 67Marrakeo : 43 1 0

ill.,45 8Marriott, IE. H. :

obit. o~P. R. O'iver, 55214W.. 8. Br01ke, 58 528

Marshall, J. A. G.1

:

climbing career ft death, 53 144-attempt on Inn~minata faoe (1874),57135

i J)

I

INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 ~ 58: I

Ma.~terhorn .c., 1st. 2nd let.t.ersre, 51 330

I winter, 1 228, 56 295I solit.a y, 49126Luo Me net's, 57 421, 68 271

I a kitte 's, 57 569tt., 44 20 , 54 18

I from D nt d'Herens, 41 430, 55 220I in 61 h urs, 53 266I by Zm tgrat, 54 124, 55 282I in 1927 54 389I vel re, 406

fi ms re, 4 224, 255, 42 343, 50 328i oidents n, 48 134-5t P of, 50330r 'lway ~ posed, 52 131'ki-ing n, 52 284b nighted on, 63 252

lLugwald r &, 55 290eodote 1st asc., 67 108

u~e of dru 8 all, 58 274lLpcidents

! 1865: . pes in, 45 319note n, 62 138oom ents on, 53 363a foo ote on, 54 82Girdl tone &, 57 369

1895: 3711928: 14231929: 14371932: 3451933: 4081934 : 421, 47 3391936 : 366, 50 1431938 : 0 337 n.1948: 405

it., Furg en & HiknJi shoulders, 4226

from T eodulhorn, 42 27S. faCe~(1930 route) 43 58, (1931 route)

44 71 76, 44 74-8, 48 150 .Furgge grat (1929 deso.), 43 61

I N. fao~ 43 ~58, (1931 route) 43 359,'I 43 36 , 44 69, 70, 53 30summit 5331Cresta i Furggen, 48 151

,various 39 37, 42 29, 43 60-1, 54 123,: 56 131

Ma~terhornJKlein: aso., 43 13-14

~

Saussu e's na.me for, 43 183Ma. de, G.. : obIt., 46 178

orl.,46 80Ma dit, Col

10.,by.W. slope, 39331from G ant gl., 40 66

o ., attem ted, 45 240: 1st, 44 07, 45 252

Wesc., to eant gl.• 45 380'story, 307,494 n.

i .,4525I W. slo (1927 & 1932 routes) 44 310,. 45 25E. slop (Gugliermina & 1932 routes)

44 31~, 46 253

Martel, E. A.: obit., 50 289port., 50 288

Martinrothspitze (Tatra): tr., 48 20Marlinslooh: ill., 43 128Martuljek, the: 39 139

tr., 40 179ill., 45 389

Mary Vaux, Mt (Canada): 1st asc. from S.,43 260, 267, 429

Masherbrum: 1938 attempt, 50199ill., 50 204-7, 51 58

Ma.sinodistrict: high level path. 40 186Mason, A. E. W.: obit. & port., 57 78Mason,K.:

, The Upper Shyok glaoiers,' 44 237rev. of Everest: the Unfinished Adven-

ture, 50 155P6ltks and I,amas, 52 153

obit. ,of G. L. Corbett, 50 130F. Younghusba.nd, 54 67

appointed Professor of Geography atOxford, 44 132

Masterman, J. s.: obit., 44 115Matenga, Mt (N.Z.): aso., 45 168Matheson, P. E.: obit. of A.O. Pl'ickard,

51304Mathews, A. G.: obit., 57 240Mathews, C. E.: 54 106Ma.thewB,C. M.: obit. & port., 41 395Mathews, W. :

'The first reoorded orosBing of the ColDurand,' 54 419

, The Eigerjooh,' 56 55early travels in the Graians, 66 256

Matsukata, S. :'Eiger and Hornli: some aooounts and

reoollections,' 42 252hiBbook: Yama Nikki, 42 873

Matterhorn :E. face: 1st aso., 44 342, 45 156N. faoe: reconnaissance, 40404

attempt, 42 345asC., 1st, 43 358, 44 69, 47 263

medal for oonqueror, 47 122nd, 47 363Srd, 47 363unreoorded, 54 439, 85 102other, 57258,451

attempts banned, 47 157Penhall Couloir: aso., 43 393

solitary, 42 337S. faoe: 1st asc., 43 397, 44 75S.E. (Furggen) arete :

aso., 42 341, 43 58, 54 309, 4451st by a woman, 56 295

de$o., 41 415, 42 22N.W. (Zmutt) arete :

Melohior Anderegg's opinion of, 63 82asc.,5399deso.,53 71

MO., 40 316, 46 80, 47 248, 53 297, 54 21,56 136, 68 480

by E. Whymper's daughter, 42 338fast, 42 344

46

I'

I

INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 to 58 I 47

Maudit, Mt ; Medlycott,.'A.; lbit. of R. A. Fanshawe,aso., E. faoe,new route, 66 404 63 167 I

S.E. arete, 50 307, 53 102, 57 458, 58 Mcijc, Lal:132 aecidel~ts; 192 : 41 434

S.E. face, 1st, 41 403 1 193: 43 4042nd, 42 289 i 193: 45 408

winter, 41 228 asc., 53 142ill., 50 303, 53 107 arete~de.la, rq.asc. from S., 40 188

S.E. face (1929& 1930routes), 42 290 C. & I~'pits., at winter, 39 160from Pte Wilson, 45 254 N..fi~e, Coul ir en Z, Ist, 45 404

Maylard, A. E. ; S. fa e, 4th, 140obit. ofW. W. Naismith, 48 164 attemp a, 48 24 ..obit., 56274 & n' ht desc., 53 189

Mayor, R. J. G. ; stonefa Is 011, 5 418'Som(l Alpine recollections,' 54 132 telerer~'ue prop sed, 46 212rev. of Men, Women, and Mountains, 44 tr., 44 209, 4 408, 48 246, 52 213,

154 5416,38, 1 3,55283obit. & port., 56 169 1st inter, 44 140

MazeriPass (CaucaSus): cr., 50 29 by . & E. retes & S. face, 45 375,Mazzotti, G. : 48 49

his books: Dernieres Victoires au Cervin, W. ar e: de cription & early ascs.,47170 392 1

A Chacun sa Montagne,57 264 ill.,52 20-1Mead, C. W.: death, 46 403,47195 W. a ete, 39 91,4651-2Mead, J. P.: 'An ascent of Gunong Taban,' from N., 48 7

54 426 Doig de Dieu 48 249,54 122-3Meade,C. F. : Gran Pic fro Pic Central, 54 122-3

'A great guide,' 51 201 Meije, B che de I : cr., 44 206note: Mont Blanc, 43 182 ill.,52 14

Joseph Ravanel, 44 338, 45 399 Mello,Pt .: asc.~o 174Garhwal. 50 323 Melnik: ill., 46 2 • 302--4

his book: Approach to the Hills, 52 145 Melon, pi..; his I· ook: Montagnards, 57rev. of Kamet Conquered,44 367 273'

The Naked Mountain, 48 237 Melville,~t.-Gen. ,. : travels in the Graians,A Himalayan Wanderer, 47 178 5655 1Menagainst the Clouds,48 199 Melville k. (Ki George Island): asc.,After Everest. 49 132 58 74Camp Six, 49 294 Memorafj Id (Lofo en): asc., 51 52Hints to Travellers, 50 352 Menlungt e, Mt ( imll,laya): ill., 58 449Les Conqulltesde ma Jeuncsse, 54 330 Mentone, te (Cor ica): asc.,40 174La Suisseet ses Amis. 54 451 Mercanto r, Caire egre del: asc., 43 251Karakoram Himalaya. 65 330 ill., 43 56Alpine Tragedy, 57115 Merde GI ce: re too 1st cr., 45 20-1Mountainswith a Difference,58 414 acciden ,61 143

Meade-King,M. G. : Merkl,W.: death 46427, Mount Olympus,' 65 269 obit., 4 136rev. of Alpine Roundabout, 56 301 port.,4 382

Ski de Descente, 57 427 discove~ of bo y on Nanga Parbat., 51obit. of R. H. Warren, 53 378 74 i

Meakin,W. : facsimil of last etter, 61 75note: Bulgarian mountains, 45 398 Merriam, t (Can da): 1st asc., 47 289obit. & port., 52 123 Merriok,

Meares,T.: obit., 41 197 his boo s: Pilla of the Sky, 53 277port., 41 196 The reakiug! train, 57 437

Mears. R. P.: 'The olimbing rope defined,' Ram ·les in thfAlPS' 58 42857 325 Merriman S. de V. :

, Experience with climbing ropes,' 58 81 rev. of 'Alpe E chanMe,58 287Meckly,E. P. : obit. of . E. T~mpson, 48 165

• Bibliography of privately printed moun· W. Makin, 6 123taineering books,' 57 391 W. S. Bull, 53 65

Mediane,Pte: E. faoe, new route, 44 337, H. W R. Roo ,547645 269 G. H. Lancast r, 57 560

Medley, J. F.: obit. of W. J. Petherick, G. D.iR. Tuck r,68 11849 259 Mcssines,~t (Can a): 1st asc., 43 169

I

i

Methuen, Lord:electOO hon. member of Alpine Cluh,

39333 •obit. &port., 46 144

Metric & Decimal syatems: 47 187Mettenbergjoch: ill., 48 332Mettrier, H.: obit. & port., 57 224Meyer, H.: death, 41 425Meyer, O. E.: his book: Berg und Mensch,

51163death, 52 130

Meynet, lllUo: his asc. of Mattel'horn, 67421,58271

Miage, Col de: or., &4 10Miage, .Dome de: aso., 52 14

tr. to Aig. de Trelatete. 42 322ill.,5213

Mioe, high alpine: 57 100, 257, 58 272Michel, H.: his book: La Jungfrau, 57 577Michell, J. W. A.: obit., 39 299Michieli, A. A. :

his book: II Duca degU Abruzzi e Ie sueImprese, 50 348 .

Middl6Il1ore,T.: his climbing career, 53 54Midi, Aiguille du :

Paccal'd'g 'Aiguille percee,' 46 12Mc.,50 194night attempt, 53 231hut on, 53 390ill., &3 190, &4 148-9

Midi, Dents du :Haute Cime, 40 351Mc.,46 258

to colon, 43 125desc. of Cime de rEst by E. arete, 46 387landslides, 41 420tr. E.-W., 47356cr0811erected, 53 388Doigt de Salanfe by Col de la Dent Jaune,

43371ill., 40 352-3, 47 367

Cime de rEst (1934 route), 46 388Midmaradalstind (Norway): tr. attempted,

53 251Miers, P. R. P.: obit., 54 198Mikeno, Mt (Congo): attempt, 54 356Milam gl. (Kumaon) :39 72, 53 43Milang g1.: asC8.from, 52 137Mill, H. R.: obit. of J. S. Masterman, 44 115M~lIington,H. A.: death, 46 206Mills. D. G. :

, Mountaineering conditions in the Unionof South Africa,' 49 235

Milne, Frank: obit., 46 11)1Milner, C. D.: 'Colour photography in the

hills,' 58 321his books: Mountain Photography, 55 335

Rock for Climbing, 57 583The Dolomites, 58 284

letter: footwear in the Dolomites, 58 405rev. of Peak Panorama, 56 436

Snow on the Hills, 56 88On Scottish Hills, 56 91The Splendid Hills, 57 108

INDEX TO VOLUMES ~9 to 68 49

IIIiI

I(

I

Monch:accident: 1932: 44 137aS08.,49 172, 53 296, 55247

by a ' IlOWroute,' 39 154N. faoe, 45 49, 47 148, 154, 53 299, 55

103Nollen route, 62 125, 53 103,5720winter, 41 228, 63 135

attempt,48172observatory on, 40 359tr. from Jungfraujoch, 46 161ill., 40 360

N. face, 45 49, (Nollen & 1921 routes)45 51, (Nollen, 1921 & 1934 routes)47148

N.E. ar~te, 45 58from Kl. Silberhol'n, 53 104Nollen ridge, 57 17

Monch (Tatra.): aso., 48 22Moniecm, La: asc., 40 173Monier·Williams, M. F.: death, 40 398, 410Monk's Cowl (Drakensberg): accident:

1938: SO151Monod·Herzen, E. :

'The disOister on the Matterhorn ofAugust, 1934,' 47 339

•Disquieting aapects of modem moun·taineering,48 134

Monro, O. G. ': death, 40 177, 218Monsoon, the: 46 407Montagnier, H. F.: 41102

• Thomas Blaikie and Michel·GabrielPaccard,' 45 I

his book: (with E. Gaillard) Lettrea deH. B. de Saussure a sa Femme, 50168

disolaimer,41 224obit. & port., 45 349memorial to, 60 320, 51 329

Montague, C. E.: 53 110obit., 40 869

Montanaia, Oampanile di Val: asc., 46 313Montandayne, Becea di: winter asc., 49

127Montandon, P. :

, Mutual responsibilities of amateurs andguides,' 43 323

• Oomplaints and confessions of all oldmountaineer,' 49 58

note: Johaun Grill II, 41 427Ortler group, 46 410 .

rev. of Thron der Gotter, 60 163obit. of J. Gallet, 46 192

A. Heim, 49 259H. Dubi, 53 255

obit., 56 390ports., 39 155, 68 390

Montasoh: asc., 44 79W. faoe, 1st asc., 44 82ill., 44 78-9

Montenvere :the Englishman's stone (see Pierre des

Anglais)ill., group at, 1893, 43 336

Montgo~'rey, J.. :, From Tauern 0 Bemina,' 48 58rev. of Berninll. Flihrer, 44 376

The IEpic of delboden, 58 150obit. 0 L. S. P well, 56 266

Got ried Sc opf, 57 93H .. Veaze ,68 264

Montserr t: 43 3 t;Moonrak r Pk. ( .Z.): 43 89-90Moore, . W. : 102

his bo Ie: Tho Ips in 1864, 51 161asc. of Dom, 65 251 ..port., 5252

Moore C I: 1st c· ., 45 365named 39309, 071

Moore Pi : 1st c., 42 1051st aso by S.E. ar~te, 45 365ill.,41 6

Moore, .: 'The ascent of Miuya Konka,'452

• Moun Sanfor : an Alaskan ski olimb,'512 2

Moorhou e Range (N.Z.): ill., 48 284Mooser, aspar: ccident & recovery, 65 316Morohne , Gross Klein: ill., 48 64-5Morcles, rande ent de: aso., 43 136MOrdeY,~. M.: bit., 50 292

port., 296Morgenh m:

aooide t: 1935: 47 377E. artlt : asc., 7 147

deac., 47 91N. faoe

ll: ases., 7 147, 53 387

S. face routes 0 ,47 90ill., 4~75-6Morin. J.: obit., 309

Morin, M :her b ks: En ordees, 49 133

L'AI Enob tee, 68 287 .Morland~:;.' C.: 0 it., 52 277

port., O"~ 269Morocoo see Speo al List)Morris, C J.:

his boo : Li . g with .Lepchas, 60 342rev. of lank 0 the Map, 50 345awarde Muroh' on Grant of RoG.S., 40

399Morrish, . L. :

obit. 0 R. S. M rrish, 57 86H. J Gait, 5 238

Morrish, . S. :obit. 0 E. Foa, 5 84

J. W F. For , 65 303J. C. Gait, 65 210

obit.,6 86Morrison· 'oott, T. S. C.: note: high alpine

mice, 272Morse, G H.: • harm~ a.nd Grepon,' 39249 .

obit. o~AIfred S mond, 40 162obit. & Iports., 4 334Va1edic~oryadd ,41 I

Morehead~F.: po ., 56 252Moreheadl H. T.: obit. & port., 43 348

50

Mortel, Piz: ski asc., 43 285Morteratsch g1.: accident: 1933: 45 418Morteratsch, Piz: proposed railway, 42 346

tr. to pjz Prievlus, 43 388to pjz Bernina, 44 330

Mortimer, A.: death, 39 328, 40 217Mosele, Grosser: aso., 48 68

ill., 48 64-5Moser, E. B.: obit. & port., 49 263Moskeneso (Lofoten): asc.,51 51Mosna, E.: his book: Visioni Alpine (third

series), 46 236Mothersill, H. J. :

obit. of A. M. Bartleet, 50 126obit., 49 261port., 49 249

Mottet, A.: death, 41 425, 437Moulam,A. J. J. : his book: The Carneddau,

68 546Mounsey, W. A.: obit .• 57 406Mountain Prophets: 54 97Mountain Rescue: 51 335, 55 20, 189Mountain siokness & high altitude moun-

taineering, 51 271Mountain walls, high: 47 15 n., 57 187, 68

256Mountain warfare: 54 413

training for, 54 442, 55 32, 74, 233, 345,395, 66 108, 215, 67 66

Mountaineer, the: & the mountain film,43 330

Mountaineering: and Government respon-sibility in N.Z., 43 190

books: bibliography of privately printed,57391

disquieting aspects of modern, 48 134Introduction to, 68 12, 207problems of winter, 55 153poetry and humour of, 52 22Relativity in, 49 153

Mountaineers: as oultural aggressors, 58 136hereditary, 39 155, 339, 40 400, 42 344,

43 383, 44 343, 45 165,46408, 48 183,53 73

lady (see Lady climbers)Mountet, 001 de: cr., 68 479Muckenbrunn, H. :

hill book (with F. Hallberg): The Com-plete Book of Ski·jug, 49 139

Miihlsturzhorn, Gross: S. edge, lBt winterasc" 48 74

Muir, John:his unpublished journals-' John of the

Mountains,' 50 339Muir, Mt (Califonua): ill., view from, 40

414Muirhead, L. R.: his book (editor): Blue

Guide to Switzerland, 57 113Mukut Parbat (Himala)'a): 1st asc., 58

270Mulhac;en (Spain): asc., 39287

ill., 40 41MulkUa: aSc., 52 136Miil1er,A. P.: obit. & port., 61 318

Mqmm,A •. :is bool: The Alpine Club Rcgister,

; 40 426 51 136

fbit. & P rt., 40 154ote re, 0399

M mmery, . F.: 64 114is book. Mes Escalades dans lea Alpeset Ie C ucase, 49 130

"ttempt n Aiguille du Geant, 48 180is climb g notes & photos, 54 77lection A.C., 54205

Whym r, 57 339M mmery, Aiguille: asc., 45 270

by S•. face, 58 270ame, 44 339, 46 399cddent, 56 40611.,452 1

}[ nday, . A. D. :Myster Mountain,' 40 99

I Myste Mountain (Mount Waddington)I 13,260 ft.,' 41 160f Source fNorth Thompson River,' 41433~is book ,The Unlmown Mountain, 66412

Mjmdar, t (Canada): 1st asc., 47291Mjlongla, : tr., 43 15M~rChiSOn,:M:t(N.Z.): asc.,43 10311£ retto gl : accident: 1706: 55 40811£ ay, A. G.: 'Some journeys through the

~

untai s ofIceland,' 40 85M nay, D G.: death, 42 119, 163M ay,G W.:

i Egypti n mountains,' 42 226 .i'The wr ng \Vayup Gebel Gharib,' 49 228i' In and ut of Saas,' 52 63I' The to ot' Egypt,' 56 33

I

note: L quinjoch, 46 412Hohst ck, 47 371

on' an y day for a lady,' 68 124-Irev. of a.Peninsula du Smai, 68 546iobit. of . Cairney, 51 315iawarded Founder's Medal ofR.G.S., 48 364

M~1rray, . H.: .!' Scottis Garhwal and Kumaon expedi.'tion,' 49'The r onnaissance of Mount Everest,

1951,' 68 433hie bool s: Mountaineel'ing in Scotland,

56 98

I

i S.M.C Guide-Rock climbs, Glencoeand Ardgour, 57 275

i Undis overed Scotland, 68 150i The cottish Himalayan Expedition,

.

1 reST~~.fl.c.Guide to the Island of Skye,

usa, Je 1 (Sinai): & ill., 40 338-9_1 asc., 68 09

usallah, t (Bulgaria): 46 161•ill., 46 #3

~~seum, pine, of the D.A.V.: 51 91; Ii!., 51

~

ustang ta (Nepal): cr., 58 106uztagh ta (Pamirs): asc., 56 317uztagh ower: ill., 43 7

I

I- --- ,_ • ...- ----- ---- 1

51

NADELGRAT:41 317tr., 42 107,53 296

attempted, 41 325in 1936,49128ilL, 55 8-9

Nadelhorn: by N. face, 40 395tr., 47250ill., 41 324-5

Nadelhorn (Peru): asc., 46 37Na.ess, A.: 'The Norwegian expedition to

Tirich Mir,' 58 6Nahr Inrahim: ill., 57 72Naismith, W. W.: obit., 48 164

port., 48 160Nameless Pk. (Caucasus): asc., 42 347Nanda Devi I (& Nanda Devi Basin):

Longstaff, 1927,40281Shipton & Tilman, 1934, 47 581st asc., 48 311, 359, 49 13

cost of expedition, 50 144Shipton, 1936, 49 27E. pk .• 1st asc., &331French expedition, 1951,58269ill., from N.E., 39 78

from S., 47 65from W., 48 312from E., 49 16-17from Traill's Pass, 40 35S. face, 49 17from Dunagiri, 52 35E. Pk., N. face, 47 67

S. ridge, &336-7varioua,47 61-75, 49 16-17, 53 38-44

Nanda Ghunti: attempt, 55 382ase., &8188ill., 40 287, 49 32-3, 54 169, 55 376-7

Nandakna: 55 202Nanda Kot: 1st aso., 50 4

ill., 49 16-17, &345Nanga Parbat:

German expeditions to :1932: 44 138, 1921934: 46 210, 47 92

accident, 46 423, 47 7correction re, 48 182correspondence re,.46 451

1937: 49210accident, 49 282correspondence re, 49 308

1938: 51701939: 51 139, 327

height, 46 413accident: 1950: 58 130ill., 44 194-8, 47 96-7, 138-9, 49 211, 51

71-4from Pirirot. 44 1931934 route, 46 422

Nangpa. La: 58 449Nankotai, Mt (Formosa.): 46 331, 335

Muztagh Pass: 50th anniv. of 1st cr., 49 277Myers, C. S.: obit. & port., 58 731I1ystery,Mount (see Waddington, Mt)

I

INDEX TO VOLUMES ~9 to 58 i

I

Nansen, f.: obit I & port., 42 297NantiU!' Col d~: 39 249 & u.Nathorst Pk. (Gr enland): 42 243, 249

asc., 396, 46 43-4ill.,46 9 t

National,fParks: ,tanding committee, 54 93,551111 '

Nau, N.': his ook: Der Krieg in derWisch erggrup " 60 161

Naus, K.: port., 194Navirian tau (Co. asus): 1st asc., 42 105Nazaroff, P. S. : 's book: Hunted through

Centra Asia, 373Neame, . H.: 0 it., 40 368

port., 0365Neame, . Armst ng:

his b : Amo g the Meadows and AlpineFIo era of N rthern Italy, 49 300

Needha , Abbe J. T.: travels in theGraia , 68 52, 68 273

Nela P (Hima ya.): cr., 46 318Neny Fj rd: ill., 57 202-3Nepal H malaya expedition to, 1949, 57

305Nepal, H H. the harajah of: accepts hon.

memb rsmp of pine Club, 48179Nepal P : asc. ofS.W. summit, 60 111-2,

&31ill., 49 48-9

Nepal: 1., unna ed pk., 67 448Nesthor :

from t e S., 42 lOS, 43 55N. fa ,1st a.sc, 46 372N. ar~e, 43 48

1st c., 57 5 5S.E. a 'te, aso. 46 390

deso., 43 49ill., 43~56S.£oe,4219

N. ce (193 route), 46 373E. £ oe (193 route), 46 392

Nettleto , C. W : obit. of W. H. Gover,&3 37

Nevada, Sierra ( llforllia): 41 328, 46 88Nevada, Sierra ( pain): 39 286'Nevado ontra.m rbas (Pern): asc., 51 327New E 'tio: no longer separately

class' ed, 46 3 4,New M~tagh Po. s: 1st cr., 52 203New Z land (se also Special List):

moun ain nom clature in, 43 89Alpin Journal Jubilee number, 53 180sum' of t·war ascs., 46 126Feder tion of ubs in, 55 221

Newton, H. E. :'A be inner in he bush.' 64 268

Ad mello. sanella, 43 187rev. f N.Z. Alpine Journal Jubilee.

n mber, 5 180 .Me ories of Mountains and Men, 56 87Eig ty Year in New Zealand, 54447

obit. </fE. Tei heImann, 51 125R. ~. Osbo e, 52 121

I

i

iI

i-------------r-t-----.-.---

52 INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 058

Newton, H. E. :obit. of Mark Lysons, 54 439

R. S. I.ow, 58 399NgaUl11hoe(N.Z.): ill., 49 96Ngga Poeloe (Carstenz): 1st asc., 49 186Nioholson, L. D.: death, 43 381, 44 173Nicol, H.: 'Deep Gash Gully, Sgurr

A'mhadaidh. Skye,' 57 542Niesner, H.: 'A Bavarian (1928) expedition

to the Caucasus,' 41 166Nightingale, M. R. W.: obit. ofC. G. Bruoe,

52101Niltka, Mt (Formosa): 42 129

asc., 46 329, 339, 343Nilgiri Parbat: 1st aso., 50 65

ill., .0 66-7Nilkanta: attempt., 58 533

reoohna.issanoe, 50 77ill., $0 67

Nima VI: port., 52 46Niven, A. C.: 'The Alpine regions of

Yugoslavia,' 58 379Nobande Sobande g1.: ill., 50 50Noel, J. B. L.: his book: Through Tibet to

Everest, 39 366Noelting, F. A. M.: obit. of Osoar Super.

saxo, 5S 99Nol, Ie Gros: ill., 47 202Nordsaulo (Lapland): 57 481

ill., 57 482North,.F. J.:

, SirHenry de 10.Beohe's attempt on MontBlanc, 1819,' 57493

North Col (Kangchenjunga.): a.ttempt, 50113,53203

North Thompson River (Canada): souroe,41433

Norton, E.: death, 45 167Norton, E. F.: 'Mount Everest: the last

lap,' 57 285rev. of Everest, 1933, 46 432

Mount Everest, 1938, 56 297obw.ofChetin,42314

H. T. Morehead, 43 350Lobsang, 44 119W. Pa.stenr, 54 288

Norton, R. F.: obit. & port., 41 304Norwegian Hima.la.yan Expedition, members

of:their book: Tirioh Mir Til Topps, 58 151

Noyce, C. W. F. :'A first visit to Chamonix,' 52 225, The middle land,' 53 294'Towards Trisul,' &4166, Simsa.ga and the Monsoon,' 54 403'An airorew mountain oentre in Kashmir,'

55 74'An Austrian impression,' 56 221'A retrea.t to the Graians,' 57 293note: an expedition to Sikkim, 55 323his books: Mountains and Men, 66194

Scholar Mountaineers, 57 581A Climber's Guide to Sonamarg,' 55

225

Ndyce, C.. F. :~ev. of ountains benea.th the Horizon,

I5755

, 'rhe Sottish Himala.yan Expedition,I 68 50

NokhnetzY~'a.ucasus): ill., 50 20N~do, Col ( olomites): aso., &5162Nulgssuaq enlnsula.: ill., panoro,ma8 from,

49296N1p La: e ploration of, & ill., 58 441N ri: port ,5246N hilt La Ko,rakorum): history, 52 198-9

r., 52 19 ,200, 56 61arly cr., 66 64

'1.,5664N onno Ra. ge (Himalaya): 0,80.in. 45 129

xplorati n of, 48 3" I., 46 12 ,48 4

OB RAM1\{ GAU: ill.; near, 52 4ObprsuIztal: avo,lanohe days in, 47 322

.~ooident, 7324Ob ou: o,so, 54 42O' rien, M. E. (Miss) :

, In the ont Bla.no massif and the Ober·land,' 231,4452

00 rida, L ke (Albania): 425600 s, the: (see Fiesoherhom, Klein)0' onnor, .: -obit. of F. Younghusbo,lld,

65Od 11,N. E :

, Within ld without the A1:otic Circle,'4627

, The sup osed Tibetan or Nepa.lese llameo{]~lou t Everest,' 47 127

, pects f mountaineering in the highArctic,' 54 182

'The firs o,sceut of Mount Vanoouver,'57484

ote: th Mounto,in Olub of South Africa,53390

n post- onsoon oonditions in the EasternHimala 0,,53 207,392

n mount' resoue, 65 189l' v. of A Climber's Guide to the Rooky

Mou to,ins qf Co,llada, 43 205Upon t at Mountain, 54 321it. of E A. M. Wedderburn, 5590arded Livingstone Gold Medal ofSoottis Geographical Society, &4456

Od ray, Mt Canada): aso., 46 83Oe stein, G ss: ill., 44 252Oel rubells 'tze, Hilltere: 0.80.,4800Oe ohinenh rn:

f om Frii en hut, 51 100~Y".aret ,1st o,so.,45 152vY. arete, st o,sc.,61 103~t.to Mol' enhorn,511021l~.,51 10

Oesphinenjo h: from Friinden hut, & ill.,S.loo

INDEX TO VOLUMES $9 to 68

Oetztal: accident, 47 152climbs in, 48 59ill., group, 40 297

Ofenhorn, the: 40 181Ogi, Fritz: aocident, 43 408Ogi, Fritz (sen.): death, 66404Ogi, Oskar: death, 43 408Ok (Iceland): aso. on ski, 48 263Oku-Hodaka (Japan): aBC.,41 13.•Olan, L':

aBc.,63 1421st by S.E. arete, 41 4301st by N.W. faoe, 46 384

attempt, 54 41ill., N.W. face (1934 route), 48 385

Oldham, J. B.: obit. of E. B. Moser, 49 263Oliver, E. G.:

• Some famous passes,' 39 35accident, 39 337obit. & port., 51 306

Oliver, P. R. :, Trisu!, 1933,' 48 142obit., 65 212port., 65 211

Oilier, Cesar: death, 42 343memorial to, 43 388

Olperer: by S.E. arete, 48 71ill., 48 64-5

OIstind: MO., 51 51Olympic (Mountaineering) medal: 48 373Olympus, Mt: sa 203

asc., 39 86, 65 269from W. & S., 41 377list of, 40 102, 402

bibliography, 39 96, 40 101international expedition, 40 104ill., 39 88-95, 40 106-7,55268-9

Ondezana.: winter asC..•49 127 & n.Ontake (Japan): aso., 68 234

ill., sa 242-3Oppenheim, E. C.: obit., 53 62Orbe, valley of the: 53 367Oriellos (Spain): 44 234Orientalismo & Oocidentalismo: 55 369Oriente, Pta.: aBC.,40 174Orny, Aiguille d': by a new route, 43 119Oro group, Mte (Corsioa): 40 172Ort1er: aBC.,63 347

N.E. (Marlt) arete, aso., 42 7aocident, 43 384

N.N.E. guUy, 1st asc., 43 384RothbOckgrat, 1st asc:, 42 7 n.tr. by Hintere Wa.ndl & Stiokle Plaiss,

63 347Hinterergrat, 46 80, 63 352Hoohjochgrat, 53 352Marltgrat, 53 352

ill.,46 76Ortler group:

climbing conditions in, 50 328guides' malpractioes in, 43 383note, 48 410

Ortler range: & the new frontiers, 40 301Orubashi Pass (Caucasus); ill., 50 21

53

, (Atlas): aBC.,48 110nada): 1st aBO.,44 334,

Alpine Club Registers,

5185

rance, II, Dauphine, 61

Alpine Club,

eath, 43 381, 44 173

INDEX TO VOLU~ES 39 tJ 58

Pallin, H. N. : PatMonia :~ts. & gls. in, 45 62'Mountains and glaciers in West Green- a~c. of higist pk. of St. Lawrence massif,

Ia.nd,' 49190 53 390his book: Andreegatan, 47 179 ill., 45 64- 7

Pallis Col: ill., pks. to the N. of,46 311 pa~hel1' C.. :Pallis, M.: his book: Peaks and Lamas, 0 it. of J.. Vigdal, 42 100

52 158 0 it., 54 1 IPalmer, G. E. H. : morial 0, 56 403

, Some climbs in the Roclty Mountains and Pat~hor Pk. (Pamirs): asc., 57 186the SeThirks,'64 152 Pat cherkofe~: 1st winter asc., 53 343

Palmer, H.: Pat monoJ. D.: death, 52 283his book (with J. M. Thorington): A Pau unri (Si kim): asc., 65 323

Climber's Guide to the Rooky Moun- Pau e Bruna d, Pte: 44 330tab~s of Canada, 43 205 Pau us Pk. ( reenla.nd): 58 199

Palmerston, Lord: visits to Switzerland, Pau garten, H.: 'An attempt ou Mount64 83 C 'Ilon,' 135

Palii, Piz : Pav , Le: t. to Pic Gaspard, 39 131tr. to Piz Bernina, 39 157 .. , 48 248N. face, asc., 42 333, 57 63 Pay r Pk. ( reenland): 42242

history of, 43 386 Pay t, Aiph nse: obit., 44 298N.W. face, asc., 53 387 rt., 44 2 7E. Pk., asc., 48 62, 43 287 Pay t, Fred ric: death, 39 153asc. on ski, 61 148 Pay t, Leon :- death, 50 318ill., N. face, (1930 route) 42 334, (various Pay t, Mich : death, 54 316

routes) 43 386 Pay t, Paulfrom Pcrs gl., 67 64 h" book: Au Royaume du Mont-Blanc,

Pamirs: expedition, 1928, 41 156 57 590ill., gls. in, 41 273 Pay ter, T. C.: 'Mountains under deep

Panjtarni Pk. (Himalaya): accident, 44 350, sow,' 56 5345 162 Paz eltal: a alanche in, 39 171

Panch Chuli: reconnaissance, 68 63 Pea ocke, T. A. H. :attempt, 68 270 ' orne gill eless climbs,' 52 209ill., 68 64-5 ' .raining in the Canadian Rockies,' 55

Paradis, Grand: 32asc., 57 296 ' ix mon hs in the Abruzzi Apennines,'

by N.W. face, 43 170,388 1i6108'record,' 44 139 d wea er at Chamonix,' 57 164winter, 49 127 n te: ere sse rewue, 51 335

tr.,54 120 the Alpi e Club in Italy, 65 224ill., N.W. face (1930 route), 43 171 Mont M udit by the Frontier ridge, 58

from Monei chalets, 54 122 132Paradise, Mt (Canada): asc., 55 69 n te: the mishap on Lliwedd, 49 123Paradisino, Pizzo: ill., 43 377 hi book: Mountaineering, 53 178Paragon, Mt (Canada): attempts, 5641-2 , . of Ha dbook of American Mountain-

ill., 45 343 leering 54 206Paravicini, C. R.: obit. & port., 56 265 A Progr 8 in Mountaineering, 58 137Parker, J. A.: death, 56 78 0 it. of P. M. Aitchison, 56 76Parker, J. K.: obit. of J. M. Clayton, 50 Pea r, G. F : 'High Pasture,' li4 246

294 '. he KIe" e Scheidegg Meet,' 57 15obit., 54 191 re . of Sw'tzerland in English Prose and

Pars, W. (artist): 56 43 Poetry,' 56 192pictures by, 64 205 Pea ce, S. L.: obit. & port., 56 275

Parseierspitze: asc., 53 351 Pe sall, W.. : his book: Mountains andPascoe, J. : M orla.nds 57586

his books: Unclimbed New Zealand, 51 Pea tie, R. :155,57578,58 126 hi books: Mountain Geogra.phy,49 288

The Mountains, the Bush, and the Sea, The Sie ra Nevada: range of Light,68138 5712

Pasteur, C. H.: 58 126 Pee ,Annie .:obit. of Fram,loisSimond, 51 316 s pposed o. of Huasca.ran, 45 38

T. L. Kesteven, 52 116 d ath,47 70S. B. Peech, 56 168 Pee , E. H. :C. A. Macdol1aId,57 402 '.Ai further expedition to the Ala Dag,

Pasteur,W.: obit. & port., 54 288 1944,' 5 45

I, III

INDEX TO VOLUMEJ 39 to 1 55

Peck, E. H. : Peto, :6. H. K. f" death, 43 409'Old friends and new huts, May-June, obit.l& port., 3352

1947,' 66 128 Petrarcfh: jour eys in Switzerland, 55 406Peech, S. B.: obit. & port., 56 168 Petrus:!,'..'J.: de th, W. M. Baker's ref. to,Peigne, Aiguilledu : 57 5:W

aile.,39 321, 44 121, 54 147,66 358 Peuter y, Aigu' e Blanche de :by N. arete, &8518 acci nt: 18 2: W. M. Baker's diary on,

ill., 64 148-9 57 529Peilspitze: aso., 41 301 ascs. :Pelago, Mt: 43 251 fr Bren side, 39 151PeIerins, Alguilledes: fr m Fresn y side, 39 320,40 62, 44 212

asc., 53 102 by N. face, 46 199by N.W. face, 48 346 .S.Ki g'ssupposedattempt,46199

accident, 54 316 by S.E. & .W. aretes, 44 320Pelvoux, Mt : S.E. re.te:

tr.; 68 226 Is winter sc., 41 228asc., 39 247 ro te to, fr m Fresnay gl., 44 320

1st by E. arete, 44 304 I al'iation 45 2491st by N.W. (hfomie)arete, 39130 S.W.!face: v riation on, 48 362

Pte Puiseux: 1st asc. from gl. Noir tr., ~ 241(N. arete), 48 360 Is withou a bivouac, 40 388

ill., from gl. Blanc, 39 246 Grell, Genda , e, height of, 42 128from gl. Nair, 68 226 box oUIldon S. arete, 40 401from Pic des Agneaux, 68 226 ill., 1 60,57129N.W. face, 39 248 N. face (19 3 route), 48 199various, 41 170,44 208, 48 248 Peute y, Aigui e Noire de:

Pen Helyg: ill., 53 123 N. a ete atte pt, 40 181Pena Alba: asc., &8134 N.E face: c., 40 403, 41200Pennant, T.: his book: Tour on the S. a te: at mpt, 39 149

Continent, 56 414 Is asc., 4 341, 43 356Penny, L. P.: obit., 55 303 orrectio re, 44 140Penrose, Mt (Canada): asc., 57 510, 512 2 d asc., 404

ill., 57 516--17 as ., &851Pentedhaktilos (Cyprus): 57192, 545 at~ained fr m W., 48 167,52 139

ill.,57192-4 S.E.iface, Is asc.,44 307Percee, Aiguille: 49 7 W. f~ce: as .,68132Pere Eterne1: 1st asc., 40 183 2~d ase. b 'voie directe Ratti,' 67 450Periades, les: by E. ridge, 53 253 win ' l' asc., st, 41 228

monograph on, 39 149 soli ry asc., 65 241Perouse, La (N.Z.): 39273 ill., . face ( 928 route), 41 202

asc.,48 188, 284 S.. face, 357, (1932route) 45 405Perren, Edmond: death, 47 249 . face & .E. arete, 48 167Perren, Hermann: death,42 130 m Col d Fresnay, 52 18Perren, Peter: port., 65 252 . face, 5 129,452--3Perret, R.: his book: Les Panora.mas du Peute y arete ill., 40 45, 50 .

Mont Blanc, 41 244 Peut':tv, Col d : 'Perrin, F.: death, 40 180 loss rf heigh, 43 393Perroc, Dent: tr., 53 307 d~esc.to Fres ay gl., 39 320,40 65, 44 320Perrous de Valloreine, les: 1st sc. from Brenva gl., 65 103

Grand: accident: 1931: 43 407 ill., 0 65, 67 131No.1: by W. face, 39338 Peute y, Mo t Rouge de: by W. fa.ceAig. de l'Ifa1a: by N. face, 41 412 dire t,52 131st tr. in 1 day, 43 895 Pfa , H.: d th, 41 424ill., 39 339,49 172 Pfeffe~,M. :

Persia (see also Special List): 'Th disas l' on Nanga Parbat, 1937,'highest mountnins in, 45 337 n., 47 303 n. 210mountain nomenclature in, 47 301 his anga arbat diary quoted, 49 220,

Petermann Pk. (Greenland): 42 241 2 2, 224asc., 42248 Phara h Pk. ( anada.): 1st asc., 40 383

Peters, R.: •Grandes Jorasses, North face: Philip opolis: ill., 46 300the first ascent,' 48 73 Philip on, P.. L.:

Petherick, W. J.: obit., 49 259 'M.olmories f the Alps and the Congo,'Petigax, Henri: port., 50 230 5'T 356Petigax, Joseph: memorialto, 39152,40398 obit, of H. Seyer, 53 377

I

------r--t-'--

56 INDEX TO VOLUMiES 39

Phillip, C. B.: obit. & port., 45 146Phillips, D.: deatb, 50 324Photography: exposures at high altitudes,

44 98colour, 49 278, 57 118, 58 321wide angle stereoscopic, 43 329telephotography with infra-red & colour

film, 50 224early Alpine, 47 246

Phoutrides, A. E. :his book (with Farquhar, F. P.): Mount

Olympus, 41 242Piaz, Tita: Strutt's appreciation, 53 348Piazzi, Cima di: 1st winter asc., 47 151Pickelsitz, the: 44 135Piokford, Miss M.: death, 46 215Pierre, B.:

•The North·east faoe of the Piz Badile andthe West faoe of the AiguilleNoire dePeuterey,' 57445

bis book: Esoalades au Hoggar, 58 541Pierre dllSAnglMs,la: 47251,48 140Pierre Pointue, Chamonix & : ·43 393Pievidur, Forcella del: 1st cr., 58 525Pigeon Tower (Canada): 1st asc., 43 170Pi¥ott, A. S. :

First aid oommittee of Mountaineeringdubs,' 65 28

obit. of II'. B. Dutton Walker, 55 94Pigou, A. C.: •Night life on high hills,

53246obit. of J. H. Clapham, 65 419

Pilatte, Tete de 10.: ill., 44 209Pilditoh, P. H.:

note: A. E. Barker, 62 132obit. of H. E. B. Harrison, 53 259

A. E. Clo.rke, 67 87obit., 57 413

Pilkington, C.: port., 53 142Pilkington, C. D. & E. F.: obit. of H. G.

Willink, 50 283Pilkington, L.: • Early Memories,' 63 141

his book: The Hills of Peaoe, 43 204obit., 53 256ports., 53 142, 258

Pil1a.rRock: 63 246, 64 9Piller, Andreas: death, 47 374Pilley, D. E.:

'The North ridge of the Dent Blanohe,'43 276

her book: Climbing Days, 47 380Pindari ioe·fall: ill., 40 34" 36Pinggera, Alois: death, 46 208

appreciation of, 53 351Pinggera, Franz: 63 352Pinggera, Hans Sepp: 53 352Pinnacle (Canada): aso., 46 82, 56 67

ill, 46 80Pinzo Nurbu: discovery of his body on

Nanga Parbat, 51 73Pioda, Pta: from the N., 48 362Pioneer Pass (N.Z.): 39 272

or., 44 142, 49 98ill., 45 307

Pi~oer Pk. ( affin J,and): aso., 47 57Pirr n mts ( ulga,ria): 45 398

ill, 46 302Pito s, ice: 1st employment in the Alps,

281Pitz al: ill., 26

PiUS~I~~ ~~: :~'I'no, "',

Plo.n. Aiguill du:E. arete: asc., 48 168, 50 305, 55 164,

57 555 68 270 .

~

nd aso., 39 318,.40 58st aso. ( yan's), 40 408etails 0 routes, 50 332

ill., 39 319,48 176-7, 55 169-71. faoe, 40 58, (routes) 60 305, 65168

Plan Grand endarme d'envers du: aso.,44 330

Plan na, Vell : ill., 52 92-3Plan pitze: .. , 44 253'Plat , TlltllS ill., 57 164Plat er, F •. : his book: Jesuits go East,

58282Plat ,Sebast n: dea.th, 53 270Pliet , S. :

his book: om Mont Blano zum WildenMser,4 138

Pion r, Fro.nz: 41426POOo Pk. (Si kim): 1st aso., 49 47Poet y: 41 2 8, 46 207, 221, 50 278, 51 118.

14. , 147, 3 ,5229, 31, 100, 63369, 64 5,34, 89,56 1 2-4,437,68 168,261, 57 146,57

Poe , Englis : in the Alps, 61 326Poil • Mt des: (see Habel Mt)Pole, M.: obi ., 52 275Po . ger, Ad : ports, 39 150, 64 297Po . ger, Alo' :

1 th aso. 0 Mo.tterhorn, 50 294, &7536Fii :rerbuoh 57 524

Polli ger, Aloi II: obit., 66 307po~"5639Polli ger, Jos f:

erbuoh preseU..tOd to A.C., 56 426St Ws app oiation, 53 11obi ., 64 29 ,66 309po~., 39 I ,64 296-7

PolIo k, F.:obi. of W. eaf,39 123rev of Walt r Leaf, 1852-1927,4437570~Years' embership of Alpine Club,. U7 .obi .,49108po .,4911

Poll :acc' ent: 1 49: 67 245by • faoe, 3 14tr., p1 133

Pollu~ (N.Z.): 1st aso., 41 235Pomo.$.agnojl: by S. face, 49 273

111.,S. faoe ( 937 route), 49 273

i I

II

il

57

orske Tnristforening, 41 2254114t (Canada): 1st &So.,42 72

t (Canada): 1st asc., 42 71

QADI~' ,GEo E: ill., 57 73Qu~a go.Ka. ahar (Himalaya): attempt,

3976,78-9ill., 78-9 "

Quato e Points Coldes: cr., 44 309,45 238Queen ess (Ca da): asc., 63 388Queen. ary ( rakorlUn): &SO.,46 413Quincey, E. de death,41 218,258

I I

INDEX TO VOLUMES!39 toSSI

Ponca, Vclika: by N. face, 45 390 Praray~l: destr ction of Rifugio d'Aosta,ill., 45 391 68 27$

Ponsonniere, Colde Ia.: accident, 51 143 Prati, ~fno: de th, 39 340Pontic ra.nge: ill., 46 284 Predigs uhl: ac ident: 1932: 43 356 n.,Pontresina: earth tremors at, 39 338 44 1Poole, J.: 'Orthodoxy and Heterodoxy,' PresMle a: asc. 46 323

47 261 ill., 4 326obit. of W. J. Williams, 57 558 Preside t, Mt (C nada): asc., 46 85, 55 67

R. C. C. Carr, 58401·. by • ridge, 54 400Popena, Piz: by Tre Croci ridge, 63 29 ill., 401Popocatepetl (Mexico): asc., 45 95 Preside t Pass: ill., 54400

mass asc., 57258 PreU, C ma dei: by S.E. arete, 46 313ill., 45 92..-4 ill., 314, 31

Porter, H. E. L.: l'rickar , A. 0.·: 57100'Mount Tasman and its satellites,' 39 rev. f Reliqu' eA. D. Godley, 39 178

265 obit. f J. T. ramston,43 159, The Southern Alps revisited,' 41 303 obit. port., 1 304I Glacier Peak and Mount Aspiring, N.Z.', Priestle ,R. E. 5795

43 81 l'riestm n, H.:, Douglas Peak, N.Z:, 45 305 hono red by, Hohe Tatra,' 47 310 obit. port.,'Farewell to Dampier,' 48 280 Prince dward,note: the late Freda du Faur, 48 363 ill.,4 71rev. ofThe Canterbury Mountaineer, No.1, Prince enry,

44 378 ill., 4 72Where the Clouds can go, 47 382 Prisoin' r, Mt: cident,40 180Plant Hunting in Europe, 67 579 Pritcha ,H.!: obit. of E. S. Tattersall,The Mountain.s,the Bush, and the Sea, 54 71

68 138 . Provis, . S. : it., 57 89Beyond the Southern Lakes, 68 277 Psegan uhashi ( aucasus): 1st asc., 48 109Farthest West, 68 277 Puoolle Grande accident: 66 406

obit. of Frank Milne,45 151 Puiseu ,P.: de th. 40 407H. C. Chambers, 58 527 Puk-na Mts (K rea): 43 104

Porter, T. C.: death, 45 397, 428 Pulling H. G. obit. of H. L. R. Dent,Postal Coaches, a Century of Swiss Alpine: 52 11

revd.,45 181 Pulling r, F. A.Potolinik, M.: 'Triglav North face: Black rev. qf Climb' g in Britain, 55 434

Gully route,' 42 78 Thp Magic f Skye, 57431Poucher, W. A. : obit. bf J. E.. Barford, 66 178

his books: Lakeland through the Lens, Pumari ish (Ka akorum): ill., 51 238, 24063 81 Pumori (Himala a): ill., from N. Col.,45 219

Snowdonia through the Lens, 63 273 from Lingtre up, 49 129Lakeland Holiday, 54 87 Punti do (An es): 47149Escape to the Hills, 54 329 1st a c., 50 1Scotland through the Lens, 54 329 ill.,4 150LakelMldJourney, 55 228 Purcell Range ( anada): 44 273Peak Panorama, 55 436 1st a c. of 3 nnamed pka. in, 40 383A Camera in the Cairngorms,58 304 Purtsc eller, Ai uille: by W. face, 57 555Over Lakeland Fells, 56 415 Pye, D : his b k: George J..eighMallory.The Magicof Skye, 57431 AM moir, 39 355Lakeland ScrapboQk,57 586 Pyrami , Grea : asc. by ladies in 1888,The Magicof the Dolomites, 68 418 50 1 5

Ponrri, Mont: two davs on, 57 147 Pyrene,s: Flig t over, 40 325ill., 57 148-9 • note pn, 43 3 5

Powell, C. H.: obit., 54 290 .Powell, E. W.: death, 45 407,414

obit., & port., 46 185Powell,L. S. :

• Oocurrence of manganese near Vald'Isere. Savoy,' 43 151

letter from Canada, 63 171obit. & port., 56 266

Pozzolo, Mte (Corsica): asc., 40,174Torre: aso.,40 175

58

RUNA (NORWAY):attempt. sa 224Raeburn, H.: obit. & port., 39 126Racchl, W.: death,47 151Rakaposhi: aac. of N.W. pk., 51 236

attempt, 56329ill., 46 135, 51 236-9

Rakhiot Pk.: 1st nac., 44 197Ralam Pass (Himalaya): cr., 40 30, 58 61Ramolkogel: tr.,53 346Ramond: lea Carnets PyreUtlens de :

Tome I, 44 156Tomes III & IV, 52 292

Ramparts (Canada): ill., 55 '32-.'lRamthang Pk. (Himalaya): asc., 42 214Randers.Heen, A.: I The East face of the

Trolltinder,' 44 283Ranrapalca (Peru): asc., 51 327Raquettel!, use of: 40400Rasica, Punta: accident: 1935: 47 374

asc.,55 15ill., 46 []62

Rae SufsMeh (Israel): ill., 40 340Rataban: 50 62

attempt, 50 67ill., 50 63

Riteau, Le:N. face: alleged 1st asc., 44 ]40, 45 163

1st aso., 50 301 .a.E. face: 1st asc., 57 527tr., 46 48, 52 211, 58 229ill., 54 122-3

Ravanel, Aiguille:asc., 48 270ill., 45 27.1

Ravanel, Arthur: death, 56 295Ravanel, Gilbert: death, 55 226Ravanel, Jean: death, 55 226Ravanel, Jean Henri: death, 58 82Ravanel, Joseph: obit.,44 117

tribute to, 44 338, 48 399port., 44 114

Ra.vanel, Rene: death, 55 226Ravin, Col du Grand {Atlas}: asc. on ski,

45108Razor :by N. face, 49 105, 50 93Razorback, Mt (Greenland): aac., 46 33Razorback, Mt (Canada): 1st aso., 47 2MReade, H. V.: obit. of .r. P. Farrar, 41 185

obit. & port., 41 392Reade, W. R.: obit., 55 321Rebarma, la: 1st asc. by W. arete, 39 339Rebarma, Clocher de la: 1st desc. by N. face,

39339Receveur, Le (N.Z.): 1st aso., 39 167,282

ilI.,39279RecC'as, Jebel {Tunisia}: by.\<J. butt-ress,

65 363I Recorders': & the Alpine death roll, 43402Redoubt, Mt (Canada) : accident, 40 ]99, 385

attempted, 40 196, 199asc., 40 384ill., group, 49 384-5

Reed, A. H. & A. W. : their book: Farth('stWest, sa 277

Regahd, F.: bit., 40 371po~t.,40 22

Reic enateln, he: 44 248ReiIl , A. A.: his map of Mt Blanc, 54

38Roo's, early pine: 51 334Rena d, A.: his book: Les Glaciers, 57

57Rend I, G. : obit., 65 82Ren ,Bisho : 54 379-80, 385Ropu lique, 19uillede In.:

1st asc., 53 162n aso., 4 409

Requ'n, Capu in du: 1st ase., 40 163Requf' Dent du :

aso .,4143Y S.E. £, oe & S. artlte, 44 122y E. fac & E.N .E. arete, 50 303,5398

ear y hlstor ,39 105ear y name, 49 8m. E. faoe, 39 110

Hese otti but . iII., 40 319Rett ngulo, ie {Corsioa}: asc., 40 174Reve s, Gran : winter aso., 49 127Rew s: fo mountaineering feats, 47 11,

12,194Rey, dolphe: port., 50 230Rey, mile: t climbs, & death: 48 26

po .,4333ill., his eha! t at 1,a Saxe, 50 231

Rey, mile (i .): port., 50 230Rey, uida: '

aw rded Cr ix de la 1.egion d'Honneur,409

obi .,48 14po ., 39 1 5, 47 197, 48 149ill., his villa at Breuil, 48 150, 155

Rey, anon J les: death, 61 328Reyn er, A.: eath, 41 425Rhe' waldho : aso., 55 242

1st by S. f: e, 41 211Rhon da, Mt Canada): 1st ase" 48 126~~o~n~;: I.~ ~el'ship of, 50 149

'T e North ridge of the Dent Bla.nehe,'276

Rie son,. (Miss) :her tr. of t e Chn.rmoz, 40 181, (see also

134,3 I) ..'obi .,40 16

R!chdilond, H. (Miss).: death, 52 136Rlokz\Jan, T.. : obIt .• 55 297RiCierg, W. R.: I On the fringe of the

amirs,' 156, Bl ek Fore t Mountain, Pamirs,' 41 261"T e Highl ds of Cantabria,' 44 216, ,,~m Titli to Bitlis,' 46 282'T e switch ck of life,' 5129his ook: lai ! Alai! 42 ]43reiof Hi alaya. Unsere Expedition,

1930, 143rge und Gletseher in Pamir, 44 146

Z~hn Jahle Bergfiihrer Klucker's Herr,:46437

INDEX TO VOLUMES ~9 to 58 59Riokmers, W. R.:

rev. of The Ascent of Mount Stalin, 49 135Bergvagabunden, 49 298Das Gastgeschenk, 50 346Festschrift der Akadelllisohen Sektion

Wien des Deutschen Alpenvereins,1887-1938,50346

awarded Hon. Degree by lnnsbruckUniversity, 43 185 '.

awarded Patron's medal of R.G.S., 47 158on mountain films, 43 333ports., 46 305, 51 37

Ridley, R.: letter re-attempt on Kn.met.bysoldiers, 49 239

Ried: archives of the Nesthorn hotel, 55261'

Riffelhorn :aSCs.,47 248, 54 362, 48 139

by Matterhol'll couloir, 43 10at night, 62 97

sensational deso., 39 339Rigele, Dr.: death, 49 281Rila: ill., lakes, 46 301

monastery, 46 305Rimhan, Gebel (Egypt); asc., 45 399

ill., 42 232Rimpfisohhorn :

ases., 47 249from Adler Pass, 55 389by N. Ilirete,55 393

doso. of, 58 136escape on, 64 125ill., N. ridge, 68 130

Rinderhom: by E. arate, 42 108by N.E. fMe, 47 363

Ringsbrae (Norway): tr. to E. Ringstind,6437

Rinks gJ. (Greenla.lld): ill., sa 194-5Rinti Saddle (Garhwal): 40 287Risch, Walter: narrow escape, 43 384Risenaasi (Norway): asc., 58 224Rishi Gorge (Garhwal): ill., 48 143, 47 60"

4916-17Ritchie, M. H. W.: 'The shores of Baffin

Bay,' 4749Robert, C. L.: 'A week-end on the Hoher

Ooe11,' 47 345Roberts, A. Carson: 'Alguillas: the tragedy

of Emile Rey,' 48 26, Reminiscenoes of La Melje,' 48 245obit., 55 95 .

Roberts, E. E.: obit. of J. J. Brigg, 55 83RobertR, J. O. M. :

, Himalayan byways,' 52 233, Kulu revisited,' 53 323 .'A reconnaissance of Saser Kangri,

Eastern Karllikorams, 1946,' 56149Roberts, 1\1.:

'The poetry and humour of mountain-eering,' 52 22

, English travellers In the Graians,' 56 51,157,252

, Two da.ys on Mont Pourri,' 57 147note: the IlliteOttone Bron, 50 319

Robertsj M. :poem : The reen Lake, 51 118

Ti es, 1946 57146rev. o. Selacte Poems, 54 88

S.E S., 561 7To r on the Continent, 1765,56414

obit. port.: 57 82Roberts M. (Mrs): (see Smith, J. Adltm)Roberts W. M.• obit. of P. R. P. Miers

6419Roberts n, A. E : obit. of A. E. Mltylard,

5627Roberts n, C. D.: 54 109RObertan, E. B.: obit. of R. A. Robertson,

5626Robert n, R. A.: obit., 56 268Robinso ,A. M.

note: Colour hotography, 49 278ne Ordnan e Survey map, 51140

hill bo k: Alp ne Roundabout, 56 301rev. 0 I Boug t a Mountain, 63 78obit., 7562

Robson l. (Can a): retreat of, 44 270Robson, J. W. :~bit. of A. Fox, 42 99

death 47 148, 196Robson, Mt (Can da): 58257

Mcid nt, 42 3 7attem. t, 43 26aso., 263corres ndenc fe,44 172nami of, 48 22ill., 258--68,44 270

Roc, Ai uille de: 1st asc., 39 331, 40 163,43 40

tr., 389ill., 241-3, 64

Roc No' , Grand: winter asc., 41228Roccia iva, Go olli dolla: asc., 48 187Rocco d Navarr (Sicily): 1st asc., 55 363-4Rach, :

'The wiss ex dition to Greenland, 1938,'61 05

• Gar wal, 19 9: the Swiss expedition,'52 4

his b ks: Sc weizer im Himalaja, 52·292Les Conque as de ma Jeunesse, 54 330Ka akoraIll illlalaya, 55 330On Rock an Ice, 56 303Cll bs of III Youth, 57 270

his d~wings 0 Himalayan porters, 52 46Rochat-Cenise: his book: Jacques Balmat

du M nt Blan , 42 146Rocher t, Aigui e de: tr., 48 138

asc., 217Rochet t Arete tr., 43 367, 45 233,50308,

52 17ill., 5 303, 31 ,53 107

Rocher ,Calot e de: by E. arete, 40 4031st as . by S. ace, 41 202ill., S face, 41 203

Rocher ,Dam de: 1st asc. by S. fMe,3915

Rochers: de Nay : landslide, 55 390-1Rockspiltze: asc, 46 77

,

I

I

-----.-------W'-.---,

60 INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 tj 53

ROOa.,Cima & Campanile di Val di: tr., Rosli>,Mte:53 354 Nrrdend :J

Rodehorn (Greellla.nd): 9.8c.,51 110 9.8CSRodier, Hippolyte: death, 53 387 ' l;t: b~N.E. (Weisstor) face, 45 371,Roelfaema,E. J.: death, 55 100 53 3Rogers, A.: obit., 58 401 iN.E. (F ntier) arete: asc., 58 517Rogers, J. G.: obit. of H. L. Stimson, 58 desc., 7 360, 53 291

111 histor ,53 290Rogers,N.: his book (with E. Huber): The itr. from to Breuiljooh, 42325,4313

CompleteSki Manual, 57 276 p' rrotspit e :Roger-Smith, H. R.: tr. to P lux, 58 517

his book:. Plant Hunting in Europe, Si alkup :57 579 Me., 41 81

rev. of The Art and Sport of Alpine by E. rete, 40 315Photography, 39 358 1st by N.E. face, 43 372

Amongthe Meadowsand Alpine Flowers Z msteins itze:of Northern Italy, 49 300 1st ase. y W. face, 39 315

Mountains in Flower, 52 156 I ., 41 2 1The Propagation of A1pine.a,57 578 ilI~,E. face from Signa1joch,40 323

obit. of E. R. Taylor, 44 289 I (1935 oute),48 171P. L. Giuseppi, 58 277 iom Ma terhorn, 53 31G. P. Baker, 58 392 • face, 473

Rolleston, L. W. : '"umstei pitze; WI face, 39 315obit. of H. A. Beeching,50 288 . ignalku. pc, E. arete, 40 318, 322

C. S. Ascherson, 55 298 . N.E. £: ce, 43 372H. K. Corning,58 393 Rosdg, Piz :

Rolleston, Mt (N.Z.): asc., 43 102 ac{lidents: 1933: 45 414,46 259,47 5Romm,M.: his book: The Ascent of Mount l' 1935i 47 151

Stalin, 49 135' a s., by E arete, 47 373Romdalshorn: MC., 54 146,58225 YN. 0.1' te & Schneekuppe, 48 63

ill., 54 148 y N.E. ce, 42 329, 43 27Ronchetti, Punta (Caucasus);42 285 ~oms., 1 135Rooke, N.: rev. of British Hills and Moun- N.. face: history, 43 28

tains, 58 299 tr.: 1st in I day to Piz Bemina, 42 112Room, H. W. R.: obit., 54 76 0 Pizzo ianco, 44 328Roos, H.: death, 51 334 iIl./N.E. fa ,41171, (1930route) 42 330,Rope(s) : t. 43 13, 8-9climbing, defined, 57 325 rom Piz Remina, 42 112

experience with climbing, 58 81 rom S., 287, 321for mountaineering, li8 76 cene of 933 accident, 45 414-15report on, 43 325, 44 107 Rose, Porta (Giissfe1dtSattel):in the Matterhorn accident of 1865,45 319 N.,slope, a c., 47 373safety device, 54 250n. itr. to rast' Agiizza,48 360spare, in theory and practice, 41 63 ill. N. slo ,43 30-1use in rock climbing, 55 384 . slope, 391

Rorhoptind; Store: 1180., li1 46 Ros garten: chimney 011 E. face, 1st aso.,1st aso., 43 273 9 105n. ,

Rosa, Mte : bylS. arElte 46 325Dufourspitze : ROSS~M': ob t. & port., 42 309

accident: 1935: 47 152 Roas , Pizzo oi: 55 131936: 48 366 Ross uppe: I., 44 252

asos., 39 333, 41 281,58 131, liS471 Ross uPfenk !1te: acoident, 48 375by Cresta Rey, 53100 Ross, Cima 1:by E. face, 42 120, 43 888, 47 154, by N.W. fa ,42328

48 171 ski asc., 43 86800asc., liS 183 i1l.~N. faoe (1930route) 42 328, 49 161}

by S. face, 40394 "om Cim Vazzeda,53 191st, date of, li5 224 RosS~'Mte : li 13

on Italian map, 42 120 Rotb .. ttgrat~. ill., 41 419, 42 327Nordend; Rate turm ( tra): asc.,48 17

MCS.: Roth, R.: de th, 50 147by E. face, 43 388, 47 359, 53 287 l~oth~r,R. :from Silbersnttel reaohed from E., his I book: Willy Merkl: ein Weg zum

45160 Jt.TangaP rbat, 49 299,I

I

.1

(

INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 to 58 61

Rothorn, Ober & Unter: asc., 48 139Rothorn, Zinal :

ascs., 47 373, 52 188, 53 11, 99, 54 349,55414

Ist,412261st by S.E. arete attained from E.,

44 313, 45 3131st by S.E. arete & E. face, 40 3781st direct by E. face, 55 312 ".by N. arete attained from E., 42 324by S.W. areta, 44 125Mummery's, 53 374

tr., 55 2accident: 1930: 42350ill., S.E. arete, 40 378

from E., 45 313from S., 558

Rothlauihorn: by S. arete, & tr. to Schilt-horn,41418

Rotondo (Co)'Sica): group, 40 172Mte, by N.W. face, 40173-4Torre de, Me., 40 175

Rotondo grol.1p(Alps): ill., 57 360Rottalhorn: accident: 1928: 40424

ill., 40 359Rouge, Aiguille (N.Z.): I18C.,39 166, 273,

41304Rouges, Aigllilles (Chamonix): climbs in,

57163,166Rousse, Grande (Graians): ill., 57 294Rousses, Grandes: seen from Dent aux

Favres, 43 136Roussette, Ill.: asc., 53 305Rowland, E. G.: his book: Hill Walking in

Snowdonia, 58 425Royal Geographical Society: centenary,

42 345, 43 185RUil.pehu(N.Z.): ill., 49 96-7Rubenson, C. W.: obit. ofF. Nansen, 42 297Ruchenfensterturm: accident: 1937: 49

285Rudge, E. C. W.: 'Bridging the gap,' 58360Rudolf, M. E. S.: obit. & port., 52 278Run, Pta. (Corsica): I18c.,40 174Ruine, Grande: asc., 44 207

ill., 40 7Rulten (Lofoten): I18CS.,43 274, 51 46Rumbold, T. A.: obit. of F. O. Schuster,

48 326W. Weston, 52 271

Runge, H.: obit. of A. P. Milller, 51318Rupa: new asc. on, 49 rooRuskin, J.: 64 98

& J. D. Forbes, 54 379,381,384--5& Melchior Ulrich, 55 320reproduction of painting by, 42 ISO

Russell, R. Scott:• The Beerenberg-Jan Mayen,' 51 18'The Karakoram expedition, 1939,' 52195, Geneva-Oxford University Climbing

meet,' 55413, Earlier crossings of the Nushik I.a,' 5& 64his book: Mountain Prospect, 58 89rev. of Mountains and Moorlands, 57 586

Russia: . mount neering in, 57 184Rutor,~ta di: asc., 67 293Rutter, .: his ok: Blindncr Alpen, IV

Band, 47 389Ruttle e, H. :

'Wan erings' the Kumaun Himalaya,192 -192ll,' 971

'The Mount ycrest expedition, 1933,'45 16

'Mo t Evere t: the sixth expedition,'48 1

his bo ks: Ev rest, 1933,46432Eve est, th Unfinished Adventure,

6 155rev. 0 Himala an Assault, 50 349ohit. Chetin, 42 313

He Lama of Rongbuk Monastery,530

award Foun r's Medal ofR.G.S., 46 220Ruwenz ri:

Hump ys (1 6), 39 99Shipto & Til an (1932), 44 88Belgia (1933) rom W., 45 275Hodg 'n (1941 53 313histo & expl ation of the range, 118 483Moun Stanle & Speke, 55 257Portal Peaks, Ii 259Mount Gessi, 17S. Por al Pk., t asc., 54 81Mount Stanley Polish asc. hy E. face,

5425Yariou~&scs.,6 323ill., 3 100, 1 4, 44 88-95, 46 275-87,

54 2 8-9,55 60,5616-17Ryan, M F.: no : Puntiagudo, 47 149Ryle, J. C.: 0 it. of C. Crichton-Miller,

54199Rysy (T tra): as ., 48 22Rytterk egten ( reenland): asc., 51 110

SAAS,CR STADI: tr., 42 345Saas Fee~. ski aC 'dent: 1935: 47345

ski ace dent: ] 49: 67 98Sabre, up de : ., 44 208Saffron . (Can ): 1st asc., 43 169Sagliains" Piz: as ., 66 361St. Agn~ Mt ( aska): 1st asc., 50 324,

61 2 7 "ill.,51 10-19

St. Cathetine, Mo tery of: visited, &8 208St. Dionyjsius, Mo astery of: 39 93

ill.,39 5St. Elias,Mt (Ala~): ill., 3922, 57 484

range, SO-ISaint·Lo p: his ok: La. Montagne n'a

pas ou1u, 57 273Monts acifique 58417 '

St. Mauri e, Abbe of: damaged, 63 266St. Nicho as Pk. ( anada): 1st asc., 43 76,

167ill., 43 76

III

: Pjo,". Tomd. 0,'" ,1~::::~OL:t::~::rra Nevada de (Colombia) :47 151 5~ 243, 63 270

from N., 50 195 san~i' F.: d ath,51 328Sajama (Andes): 3rd asc., 5680 San is: asc. 54 15Sa-Kang La (Karakorum): cr., 39 223 a cident: 1943: 64 205Sakharis Magali (Cauoasus): 1st asc., 48 105 San ner, Ka : Strutt's appreciation, 63 343Saladin," L.: 'Two Caucasian Journeys,' Sar ach (Ca ada): asc., 53 334

47 103 Sar nne, J. :death, 48 363 hi~ book: Trois Cures en Montagne, 58

Salbitschyn: 57547 1146by S. arete, 48 172 Sar k Mts (S eden): 41 361ill., S. arete, 48 176-7, 57548 Sar iellto, t (S. Amerioa) :

S. face, 57 548--9 a tempt, 5 6S.W. arete, 67 548--9 il ., 46 64

Salcantay (Andes): E. Pk., 1st asc., 58 135 Sar 0 Laggo: iII., 60 35S.E. face, attempt, 58 135 Sar 0 Laggo Pass: cr., 50 391st asc., 58 534 Sar in, G de: asc. & ill., 41 413

Saleinaz gl.: ill., 68 328--9 Sa ra., Piz ill.; 66 122-3Saleve, Mt: Blaikie's accident, 46 6 Sas 11' Kangci (Karakorum): reconnaissance,Salis, G. von: 'The M1lnchas a point for 66 149

Scientifio Observation,' 40 .359 ill., 58 154 156Salm-Reiffersoheid, Prince-Bishop: port., sasr La (K rakorum): 01'., 39 21251 95 Sas atchew , Mt (Canada): 2nd asc.,

Salt, G.: 'Things by the way,' 65 356 4 429,4244awarded Murchison grant of R.G.8.: Sas~Maor : ., 63 354

68 269 Sassp Cavall : by S.E. faoe, 52 140Salyinan Bashi (Cauoasus): aso., 42 133 Sj d'lt a, Gran: 41 217, 55 :l64 ··6,Samivel: his books: Sous l'ooildes Ohoucas, 58 111, 19

ou lea Plaisirs de I'Alpinisme, 44 371 .. ,56368 56114-15- 10°, 46 180 Sat pauth ( imalaya): 1st asc., 56 188L'Amateur d'Abimes, 68 278 C ntral P • 1st asc., 48 316Contes a. Pic, 68 279 P nacle oN. buttreBB,1st asc., 46 313

Sampson, Mt (Canada): 1st asC., 40 383, ~~tempts, 1 81-241 847 • ~, 46 31 16, 61 81, 83

ill., 41 347 Sat~lhorn : c., 39 156,43 50Sand, George: visit to Chamonix, 55 127 ~t asc., 5 184Sandal, Mt (Pamirs): ill., 41 156, 158 Sau age, E. death, 49 277Sanderson's Hope (Greenland): 1st ~so., Sav ill.Pass Karakorum): ill., 51 54

49 197 Sav ye, Cyp ien: death, 65 323asc., 47 49 SCill: mci ents on, 53 247

Sanford, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 51 222 P e, asc., 7172 ."".ill., 51 222-9 Sca no, Fore la dello: 1st cr., 39 135

Sang, G.: obit. & port., 43 166 Sea no, Lo: from the E., 49 120Sane Nom, Aiguille : Se tseha.lla, Piz: by E. face & S. arllte,

by W. arete & tr. to Aignille Velie, 39 4 115133 Sca ia, S di: by N.E. arllte, 58 524

from Nant Blanc gl. (N.W. face) & tr. to Sce I cen-Ber ma, Fuorcla.:AiguiIleVerte, 40 405,41 207 h' tory, 43 319, 44 103

tr., 50 306 2 d aso. 0 N. slope, 48 360, SO 146ill., 52 228 i , 43 320 3, 44 106

Sans Nom, Breche: history, 39 133 n., 340 Scer cen gl.: ill., 43 286

46 209 S. face: n w route, 40 401asc. from gl. Nair, 52139 b N. face 42328,43 24,387

1st from 001 du Pelvoux, 57 536 b ice no ,& tr. to Piz Bemina·Piz Palii,1st by N. fa.ee,58 131 47 373

ill., 41 170,44 208 fr m pjz emina, 44 330from gl. Blanc, 39 246 w nter asc., 50 321

Sans Nom, Petit Pic: e rly atte~Pt, 43 3191st sac. by N. face, 49 119 . ,43 287ill.,41170 from Pi Roseg,42 112

Sanseverino, J. : ice nose, 43 23note: Alexander Burgener's Ffihrerbueh, IS. face, 3 321

58 410 ScMlfkogel: ase., 48 59. I

i

63

ennan arhwal-Himalaya expedi.1938,' 5 79e: ill., arly morning clouds from,

I I

I

INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 to 58!

SC~f~CM~~nia~r~l~:kroute), 51323fro~ N.W., 44

Die Wunder der Schucan P.: de th, 42 342Schulz, .: dea h, 41 424Sohnssel arspitzel: S.E. face, 1st asc., 48 73Schuster C. (Lor Schuster):

'An a stract A ine subject,' 46 13'A Ma fox an March hares,' 48 234note: a foo ote on the Matterhom

acci ont, 54 2Yaledi tory ad ress,53 1his bo ks: Me , Women, and Mount.ains,

154 'Pos script to Adventure, 57 588

rev. 0 Mount ns of Memory, 67 104Tra cIs amo gst the Great Andes, 57

4 Iobit. J. J. ithers, 52 107

Jos ph Turo, 53 884R. . G. Ma~or, 56 169L.. Scott, 559

Schuster F. O. :obit. 0 M. Imfi ld-Sei/er, 42 311

F. _Ellis, 13350 ye 1'8 a m mber of Alpine Club, 40

17960th v sit to Z att, 46 399obit., 326ports., 48 221,memo '0,1to, 4

Schwarz , HinteSchwarz nbach,

his baok (witnich in B4648

Schwarz ruber,'The .u.OE. ·Y. in the Cauoasus,19M,'

481 5'The .u.OE. -V. in the Cauoasus, 1936,'497

'TheHon

Schwarz5327

Scimitar alley ( anada): ill., nameless pk.above, 47 79

Sciora, 0 di : 171st asc by W. uttress,41 224ill.,53 19

Sciora ill dentro: 55 17Sciora di fuori: y N.W. face, 47 155Sciora gr up: ill. 55 9Sciora, to, Piod di: 1st asc. by N. slope

of E. /lte,39 16Sciora ri( ge: tr., 47 155Scotland: climb' gin, 46 259, 66 31

ski mo ntainee ing in, 54 127Scott, H. E.: obII' of P. S. Minor, 39 306Scott, L. F.: obi ., 57 559 1

Scott, M (Canad): 1st ascs., 40 382, 41341-2' I'

Scott, W~S.: • Sritzerland a century ago,'55 175 I

Sohallihorn: asc., 68 465by S.E. arete, 47 358ill., 66 384rl>,467

Schlitz, J. J.: his book:Alpen, 57 423

Sohaufelspitze: asc., 41 297Sohertel, Hermann: death, 60 336Scheuohzerhom: attempt, 65 244Sohiller, F. N.: obit., 51 127 '.

port., 51 123Schi/thorn: by N. arllte from Rothlauihorn,

41418aso.,43 131

Schladming: accident near, 47 152Schlegcis Kees: ill., 48 64-5Schlickersee Spitze: asc.. 41 300Schlunegger, Hans: death, 62 130Schmid, l!'.: port., 44 349Schmid, H. R.: his book (with A. M.

Schwarzellibach): Was nicht in Baedekersteht: Schweiz, 46 438

Schmid, T.: obit. & port., 44 348Schmid, W.: his book: Kommen wit mil'

ins Wallis,.55 333Sohmidkunz" W.: his book: Bergvaga-

bunden, 49 298Schmitt, F.:, his book: Sommerski,47 171Schneehorn: accident: 1936: 483688chneereifen ': 53 140Schneestock I by E. buttress, 48 174Schneider, E.: 'The accident 011 Nanga

Parbat,' 46 423• The German assault on Nanga Parba.t,'

4792Schofield,J. W.: death, 43 381, 428Sohomberg, R. C. F. :

•The Upper Aghias, Central Tian Shan,'4579

•The Bar and Da.intar glaciers, 1933,' 46131

, The glaciers of Upper Ishkoman,' 46 344'Passes-Northern Yasin,' 47 316•Some glaciers of Upper Ohitral,' 47 98'Derdi and Chapu1'8an Yalleys: moun·

tains of N.W. Chitral,' 48 295•Lutkuh and Hunza,' 48 124•The Nushik La in 1943,' 56 61

Schonbiohlerhorn: 48 68Schopf, Gottfried: port.., 48 59

obit., 57 93Schreokhom, Gross:

ascs., 43 120, 55 245by S.W. ridge, 40 192,62125, 63 103,

55353attained from N., 49273

1st by N.W. ridge, 57 531by W. face, 63 267

1st, 47 365by N.E. face, 51 323

tr. & 1st dese. of S.W. ridge, 55 282ill., from Lauteraarhorn, 40 241

from E., 40 240from S., 44 60W. face (1935 route), 47 366

64

Scottish Mountaineering Club:books: Journal (Jubiloo number), 51 345

Guide to the Isle of Skye, 57 115, 260•Scrambles amongst the .Alps': printer's

error in, 58 535Scrambling, irresponsible: 42 127Scriven, G.: obit. & port., 44 112Sealy, Mt (N.Z.): asc., 39267,342Sedgwick, W.: obit,. ofF. N. Schiller, 51127

obit., 58 395~eeko.uer~lps: 44 256Seekopf: ill., 40 301Sefton, Mt (N.Z.):

ascs.,44 142from W., 43 397by N. a.r8te,50 140manJess, 47 159

third pk. 1st asc., 43 398Seiler, F.'au Alexander: death, 43 385Seiler family: 44 lJ49 3?: ,~,Seiler, Joseph: obit. & port., 41 400Seisera Valley: ill., 44 87S61e,Pte du: ill., 44 208Seligman, G. :

'More about mountains under snow,'55 287

•Snowcraft and avalanches,' 56 120his book: Snow StruQture and Ski Fields,

48 380rev. of Sommerski and Der Sommerski,

47171Ski.ing, 49 139The Complete Book of Ski.ing, 49 139Scientific Results of the Dutch Expedi.

tion to the Karakoram. Vol. II.Glaciology, 51 152

I,ll.Nature Alpine, 57 112Beitrag zu den Theoretischen Grund·

lagen des Lawinenverbaus, 57 112obit. of C. S. Myers, 56 73

Fritz Steuri, 68 122on ski~ingin Scotland, 54 131awarded Back Grant of R.G.S., 52 283

Selismta (Caucasus): by W. arete, 48 105Sella, G.: death, 62 137Sella, La: tr.,43 15Sella Pass: cr., 43 286-7Sella Tower, Third (Dolomites): asc., 45 274Sella, V.: obit., &4292Seltau Range (Pamirs): 40 407, 41 265Senger, M.:

his book: Wie die Schweizer Alpenerobert wurden, 55 332

Senora (Spain): 1st asc., 58 134Sentinel, the (S. Africa): asc.,40 110Senza Nome, Pta. (Corsica): asc.,45 144Serbal, Mt (Israel): asc., 40 339Series: 1st winter asc., 53 343Serleskamm, the (Stubai .Alps): 41 300Serrucho (Andes): 1st asc., 58 409Seven Lakes, Valley of: ill., 5090Seylaz, L. : his book: Alpes Vaudoises,57271Seymour, H. F.: death, 55 100, 120Seymour, H. S.: death, 43 179,219

Sfing~,La : N. arete, 43 383Sgur~ Alasda' : ill., 45 264Sgur Nan G' ean: ill., 45 265,56383Sg Sgumai: ill., 45 264Sgur Thearl ch: ill., 45 264Shak gam: S rveyexpedition (1926),39 209

no e 011, 39 241ex edition 1937),5034It lian exp ition (1929), 41 429ill. 39 21 0, SO 35

Sha! uz (Can sus): asC.,53 235Shan, au (Cau us): 1st asc.,48 105Shar ,H. F .. : obit. & port., 50 133Shar e, W. S : obit. of n. Lawford, 57 85

A. G. Math ws, 67 240Shay'b, Gebe (Egypt): asc., 66 33, 58212Shea C. E.: obit. & port., 43 345Shel ikhtau ( aucasus): by N. face, 48 85Shen ib, Ge (Egypt): aBC.,42231Shon odm, G bel (1~gypt,): attempt; 42 230Sher ingtoll, C.: 'Grindelwald in winter,

18 7,' 57 1She ill, M ham: his collection of auto·

g phs, 50 62Shik Iditau ( aucasus): 5029Shll ·Muz.J ga (Pamirs): ill., 41 156Shi (Hima ya): 52240Ship on, D.: her book: The Antique Land,

68 152Ship on, E .. :

, e first raverse of the twin peaks ofount 1 enya,' 43 138

, ountain of the Moon,' 44 88, ashar Pin,' 46 129• he Nan a Devi basin,' 47 58, he Mou t Everest recounaissance, 1935,'

1, urvay in the Nanda.Davi distriot,' 49 27

cent 0 Gordamah Peak, North Silr·im,' 49103

, haksga expedition, 1937,'5034he Arch ' 56 227

• ustagh ta,' 56 317, ogdo 0 " 57 467h' books: Nanda Devi, 48 203

Blank 0 the Map, SO 345Upon t t Mountain, 54 321Mounta,' S of Tar1.ary,58 413

Ie ter: fr Kashgn,r,53 395o ·t. of M. Spender, 55 318a, arded atron's ]~edal of R.G.S., 50

317Shi a TempI (Oolorado): 50257

, .,502489Shi ling (Ga hwal): reconnaissance, 51 81

· .,15182Sh' ra (Cau sus):

2 d asc., 167 .t .,42347 43 400,4980NI.E.Pk. y' Tra.peze' route, 48 108i~., from schumurtscheran Tau, 41 166

:and Be ngi gl., 46 361N. face, 47118from N.49 80

INDEX TO VOLUMES!39to sal 65

Shore, C. R.: dea~h: 45 397, 429 Sir Don~'\d, Mt ij,...,.), It. _, from E.,Shortt, C. W. :. obIt. of J. Shortt, 44 286 43 65,268 I'

Shortt, J.: obIt. & port., 44 286 tr.,43 264:Shtshurowski, Pic (Caucasus): aac., 47 117 heightl,44 2641Shtulu Pass (Caucasus): attempt, 46 361 by N.W. arete, 46 87

cr., 47 112 ill., 4687, 54 1 4-5Shukoran, Mt (Formosa): asc., 46 340 Sir DO~las Haig Mt: 1st aac., 42 71 'Shyok gls. (Karakorum): 44 237 Sir Jo Thom on, Mt: ill., view from,

~44~~1 , ~g.Side, A. D. B.: 'Mountaineering with the Sirao, I, :

Army in the MiddleEast,' 57 66 asc., 4 169, 5 109note: Mountain resoue, 55 197 1st Y N. fa e, 44 805

Sigurdsson, O. (Iceland guide): 4096 ill., N. face, 44305Sikkim (see Special List) (191 & 193 routes), 44 306Silberhorn: desc. by N.W. arete & face, Sissone, tel 5513

41 416 tr. of 'dge to a Rasica, 44 330, 45 160variation on N.E. face, 52 126 Sissons, . B. : bit. of A. P. Coleman, 51ill., 55 361 293

N.W. routes, 41417 Slcagastostind, Sore: aac.,54 145N.W. arete, 41 418 by S. cc,40 71N.W. face (1931route), 43 376 1st asd., 41 384N.E. face (1939route), 52 126 tr. to jertvast nd, 53 249from N.E., 57 17 ill., 40 177,41 85ridge, 55 361 Skala orku (0 uoasus): attempt, 41 ]67

Silberhorn (N.Z.): asc., 39 164 Skamsi nge (Ka akorum): ill., 50 51attempt, 39 267 Skantze, .:' T e Paulin aneroid,' 40 360tr. of main divide to Haidinger, 39 168 Skasski. (Cauc us): 48 89ill., 41 311-12, 50 221 ill., 48 8

Silbersattel: ,from the E., 45 160 Skatil[o (Cauo 46 408,Sild-Ficker,C.: port" 5133 471 3Sils Lake: electricity scheme, 39 157, 337, ill.,47 14

40 185 Skene, M (Canad ): 1st asc., 43 78, 168Silverbjoerg(Greenland): asc., 51 no Sketohin in the Ips: 52 1Silverthorne, Mt (Canada): 1st aac., 48 360 Skis: u d in the Pamirs, 41 158Sim, J. A.: elected hon. member of Alpine probab e 1st B ish wearer, 41 388

Club, 5&168 types ,55 156 288Simi!aun: ill., 48 59 ill., 47 72-3Simler, .J.: his book: Vallesiae Desoriptio Ski·inst coors: 'guides,' 47 152

et de Alpibus Oommentarius,history of Ski-runn : a de ence of, 39 374, 40 213the de Thou copy, 40 141 & the 'sk ofav !anches, 41 88

ports., 40 144 Ski Moun aineerin : 43 283Simon, Albert: death, 44 345 in Scot and, 54 27Simon, C.: his book: Erlebnisse nnd in New Zealand 49 87

Gedanken eines alten Bergsteigers, 1880-- Sma, G bel el ( Afrioa): by W. buttress,1930,44 161 55363

Simond, Alfred: obit. & port,.,40162 Skridutin ar (Icel nd): & ill., 40 88Simond,Franyois: obit., 51 316 Skrine. C P.:Simond, ,Joseph: death, 44 U8, 338 rev. of he Ant' ne Land, 68 152Simonsberg(8. Afrioa): ill., 49 235 Mou tains of artary, 58 413Simplon Pass: early cr., 54 180 Chin to Chit aI, 58 413

model of, 51 335 Skrlatica asc. by N.W. fuce, 41 75Simsaga (Himalaya): 54 403 by Ieu eg, 4 105,50 94

ill., 54 404 ill., 41 5-6Simvu (Sikkim): 1st asc., 48 360, 49 47 Skrnen ( orway): aso., 58223

ill., 4948-9 Skye: 0 bing i ,45 266, 53 337, 54 337,Simvu La : 66 3 ,57 54

1st cr., 44 23 S.M.C.Ouide to 57 115?r., 50 113,53 204 Siaok:E. I deat~, 39711I.,50111 Slatatn, :mz: ski so., 43 285

Sinai, lit: 40 338 Slater, C.! death, 2 128, 170Siniolchu(Sikkim): 1st aso., 48 359, 4945-6 Slater, E=iV.: dea h, 45 407, 414

2nd asc., 50 139 obit., 4 184ill., 48 313, 49 48-9, 50 110 port., 189 I

SiniolohuRock Needle: ill., 44 23 Sledging: ;a la Ra~e, &3 59

Ii i, II I

! I-----------~--

66Sleeman, C. M.: 'Olympus from the West

and South,' 41 377'The mountains of Albania,' 4255'.Tumrukeal,' 46 159note on Mount Olympus, 40 101, 402obit. of W. T. Elmslie, 55 86

Siesser, C. G. M.: 'Greenland, 1950, Pa,l't 2,'sa 199

Sligachan: ill., 53 336Slings, foot: ill., 51 335-7Slingsby, W. 0.: 54 111-13

his book: Norway, the Northern Play-ground, 53 177

obit., 41 383port., 41 383, 394centenary of birth, 57 256

Sloan, Mt (Canada): 8.se.,57 5]5Slogen (Norway): Me., 46 38, 55 280, 428,

56 368, 58 223ill., 55281, sa 222

Slovene Alps: guide book to, 50 326Smith, Albert: & Mt Blanc, 55 128, sa 1

lost mementoes of, 46 215his letter re Alpine Club, sa 3table game, sa 136

Smith, G. Adam: obit., 54 85Smith, J. Adam: note: early English

travellers ill the Graians, sa 273her book: Mountain Holidays, 55 324rev. of Guide de Tarentaise et Maurienne,

51436Rambles in the Alps, 58 428

obit. of G. Adam Smith, 54 85Smith, J. D.: death, 53 264 •Smith, K. C. : rev. of Again Switzerland, sa413Smith, M. K.: obit., 55 298

port., 55 297Smuts, J. C.: ohit., 57 557

port., 56 374Smyth, A. J. M.: 'Airorew mountain centre,

Kashmir,' 66 215Smythe, F. S. :

'The first ascent of Mont Blanc directfrom the Brenva glacier,' 40 58

'Some physical characteristics of snowavalanches,' 41 88

'The assault on Kangchenjunga, 1930,'42202

'The Kamet expedition, 1931,' 43 289, Jagi and Bietschhoerner,' 44 277'Garhwal, 1937,' 50 60'Dauphine and Mont Blanc, 1939,' 52 10'Some experiences in mountain warfare

training,' 55 233, 345'An expedition to the Lloyd George

mountains of North-east British CoIUln.bill,,' 56 354

note: Aiguille de Grepon, 39 335Eiger-winter attempt, 41 229the acoident on the S. face of Mont

Blanc, 46 415the Solvay hut, 46 408

on post. monsoon conditions in the EastemHimalaya, 53 205

, ,

Smythe, F. Sf :le~ter, fron Canada, 54 307lli~ bOOkS.: Climbs and Ski Runs, 41 440

,he Kan chenjunga Adventure, 43 201amot onquered, 44 367

Alp' e Joumey, 47 181e Spir t of the Hills, 48 197

verTy lese Hills, 49 130amp SI ,49 294he Mou tain Scene, 49 296he Vall of Flowers, 50 338eaks a Valleys, 50 344

idward hymper,52 147he Ad entures of a Mountaineer, 52151Came in the Hills, 52 152

fount,a! eering Holiday, 52 287Y Alpi e Album, 53 80he MO~ltain Vision, 53 275

~ritish ountaineers, 53 276pver W sh Hills, 53 273

eret 'ssion, 63 400pine ways, M86

now on the Hills, 56 88ain S itzerland, 56 413cky oUlltains,57 104

wiss W tel', 57 118ountai s in Colour, 57 423limbs' the Canadian Rookies, 5B 145

e 'tor of ymper's Travels Il>mongstthereat A des, 57 431

o ·t. of E .. M. Wedderburn, 55 93· R. OJ vel', 55 212

el cted ho . member of C.A.F., 44 334oljit., 57 2. 0, 419Mrts., 51 2, 57 234

Sna hoetten Greenland): asc., sa 196Sno Commi sion, International: 48 217Sno craft: avalanohes, 56 120Sno don: il., 53 121, 127Sno oavos: 56 112, 57 99

ill,56115Sno Dome anada): asc., 55 43, 349Sno Lake ( arakorum): 50 49

ill ,52 196, 202, 207Sno Pass ( nada): 1st or., 40 384Sole tind (No ay): aso., 58 222Solis 0, Gros (Tatra): tr., 47315Soli ire, Mt Canada): 1st asc., 3968SolI del', E : death, 43404Soli ,G. A.: 'Fifty years ago,' 47 244

, e Alph bel in 1906,' 53 210ol:lit. of T. eares, 41 197

· W. B ant, 46 377· L. Co . s, 49 264

o ·t., 53 3po s.,53 6-7

Soli ein, Gr S8: tr. to Bettelwurfspitze,53 343

Som 1'8, .J. P.: obit., 54 70 .t., 54 7

Som rvell, T H.: 'Clhnhing in the Tatramonnta! s,' 48 ]5

hi$ book: ter Everest, 49 132

Somervell, T. H. :rev. of Nanda. Devi, 48 203

When Men and Mountains Meet, 55 431Songuta (Cauoasus): aso.,48 116

ill.,47114Sonnblick: accident, 40 189Sonnenspitze: aso., 53 342Sorata: (see Illampu)Soreiller, Alguilles de: acoident.: 1930 :

52141Soaneado. Mt (Andes): 1st asc., 48 177

ill.,48 176-7Sources, Mt aux (8. Afrioa): 40 190, 42 335South Afrioa (see Special List)Southey, Robert: poem, 51 145Sparrhbrn: asc., 48 138Speaker, G. R.: death, 53 396

funeral, 53 397obit., 54 74port"", 53 1177,54 74

Spelterini, Capt.: 56 282Spenoe, Mt (N.Z.): aso., 48 283Spence, W. M.: dea.th, 39 328, 40 217Spenoer, S. :. 'Early ascents of Mont Blano: Fellows

and Hawes,' 43 312, Days with four great guides,' 53 185note: the Dom in winter, 40 409

Mountaineering film!ll,43 389, 44 136hia book (editor): I,oIlsdale Library,

Mounta.ineering, 47 163rev. of Alpine Days and Nights, 44 374

Modem Mountaineering, 45419Pavements and Peaks, 46 236VAlpinisme, 48 241Wall nicht im Baedeker steht: Schweiz,

48 438Guide to the John Muir Trail and the

High Sierra Region, 47 182Alpinistes d'autrefois, 48 198Encordees, 49 133Guide des Alpes Valaisannes : Vois. I &

II,50167Alpine Byways, 54 86Escape to the Hills, 54 329Scotland through the Lens, 54 329L'Epopee Alpestre, 55 112

tribute to J. P. Farrar, 41 184obit. of H. E. M. StutfieJd, 41 391

Emil Loohmatter, 43 354Hans Almer, 53 263H. Speyer, &3377 .J. P. Somers, 54 70P. Montandon, 56 392

elected hon. member of Alpi.ne Club,49121

80th birthday, 53 406obit., 67 410ports., 53 191, 57 410

Spender, M. A.: note: the new map ofSwitzerland, 61 141

obit., 55 318Speyer, H.: obit., 53 377Spide, Mt (Corsica): asOB.,40 174-5

67

Spik: if ace, 1 t a8O.,39 138N.W. ce, lilt c., 44 100asc.,4 180ill., N. face, 39 139N.~ N.W. faces (va.rious routes), 44

1 3Spitsko Great ( . Africa.): ill., 56 376Spitz her en: as cta of mountaineering in,

5418Spitze uh: asc, 49 62

ill., 49 64Spitzma er:

accide t: 193 : 44 34719 : 50335

Spoleto, .R.H. uIte of:eleot hon. me ber of Alpine Club, 42 120a.ward d Patro 's Medal of R.G.S., 44 141

Squanee F. C.: eath, 49 271, 309Sri Kail h (Gar al): 1st aIlC.,51 83Sron Nil,Ciche: i .,54 344-5Stabele urm: (s Vajolettiirme)Stable, . W.: d ath, 41 418, 42 160Sta.irCall Pk. (Ka akorum): ill., 50 46Stallard, G.: dell.h, 54 455Stangen itzen: [1.' 48 64-5Stanley aldwin, M:t(Canada): 39340Stargaze (N.Z.): 43 89

attem ,43 901st as ., 48 188ill., 43 81

Stark, F.I:her bJ;ks: Th Valleys of the Assassins,

46434Tra eller's Peluda, &8148

Starr, W A.:his bo It: Gni e to the JohnMuir Trail

and he High Bierra Region, 47 182Staubla . e: 41 4Stead, F. B. :

obit. 0 J. H. noaster, 56 272Stecknad lhorIl :

naos., st from ied gl., 41 316& tr. of Ho erghom & Diirrenhorn,

412 2ill., 41 24-5 .

Steele, M1i~(Alask ): 1st asc., 47 373, 48 812nd as ., SO 10ill., 48 0-1, 5099-107

Stein. A. ':obit. 0 F. de F lippi, 51 296award Trien iaI Gold Medal of Asiatic

Sooi ty, 44 3obit., 287

Steinauer L.:'Gran es Jor es, North face: third

nace t.' 48 76Stelvio P ss: ill., 46 76Stephen, .: 54 1 1-5

his boo : La T rrain de Jeu de l'Europe,4737 '

letters to some rench friends, 47 253& the :$ietschh n, 49 279& the Grepon, 5 224port., .149 !

68Stereo.Photogrammetry: 47 156Steuri, Fritz: injured, 48 369

1,OOOthasc. of Jungfrau, 52 284obit., 58 121

Stevens, E. H. :'Dr. Paccard's "Lost Narrative." An

attempted reoonstruction,' 41 98'Dr. Paccard's " Lost Narrative." Some

corrigenda and addenda,' 42 94, 165'Dr. Paccard's diary,' 46 1, In the footsteps of Dr. Paccard,' 47 197,

49 I, A famous Alpine story,' 53 81, 175, 268, Portraits of Whymper,' 53 156, Leslie Stephen and the Grepon,' 53 224, Some familiar traverses,' 54 117, James David Forbes,' 54 372'The vertical retardation of the ice of

glaciers,' 65 271notes: Cauoasus notes, 47160

Leslie Stephen and the Bietsohhorn,49279

Pacoard'a ascent of Mont Blanc, 63 268rev. of Tableau I,itteraire du Massif du

Mont Blanc, 42 367Early Travellers in the Alps, 43 199Los Carnets Pyreneens de Ramond,

Tome I, 44 156La Montagne, 45 182Mol1t Blanc Sideshow, 46 242Cas Monts affreux •.. , 48 431Alpinisme Anecdotique, 47 180Voyage de Saussure horsdes Alpes,

48 376Teohnique et Poesie de la Montague,

48 388Saussure aux Alpes, 60 348Le Ruwenzori, 60 354High Conquest, 53 271EaJ!ly American Ascents in the Alps,

54 326Michel·Gabriel Paccard und der Mont·

blanc, 54 327obit., 65 299port.,66296

Stevenson·Moore, C. J.: obit., 56 174St.ewart, J. A.: 'A traverse of the Strahl.

horn,' 57 222StiIioho, Flavius: itinerary in the Alps,

65 406-7Stimson, H. L. :

elected hon. member of Alpine Club,53404

obit., 58 IIIStjernhodet (Lofoten): aso., 61 50-1Stoehr, C. F.: death, 44 350, 46162

obit., 44 290port.,45 163

Stok, Mont: 67 181Story, a famous Alpine (ich gehe nicht):

&3 81, 175, 268Strahan, Mt (Canada): 1st asc., 43 78, 168Strahlbett: by S. face, 41 416Strahlegg: cr., 63 140, 54 28

Str~hlhorn: desc. of E. face, 48 350., 56 3 , 67 222

iI., E. fa e (1935-36 routes), 48 351Str hlhorne : 2nd summit, by S.E. face,

1322Str tfieId, . R.: obit., &3 67Str tchers: ill., 55 200St la, M. M.:

'The Ea ern arate of the Signalkuppe,'! 40315

',Climbs om Maligne Lake (Northern

~

anadi Rockies),' 41 340, e first ascent of l\ft Oubliette,' 45 341

Str tt, E. L :, ount verest. The Third expedition.

An Aus rian criticism,' 39 117, n extra rdinary escape,' 39 113, ~nde asse-Gro,nde Motte trav.erse,'

40 114, he first ascent of Piz B&dilet,' 41 371, orela carscen-Bernina,' 43 319, he Eng 'sh Mount Everest expedition,'

!44 262" superi rity complex? ' 46 374, emora Ie days,' 53 II, 176, he East rn Alps in the 90's,' 63 338, .8.ysoft ttle satisfaction,' 55 389lite: Piz Palu, N. face, 43 385

G. Scriv n, 44 113Kangch njunga and Mt Everest, 45 166Alois Pi ggera, 46 208Berliner hut, 49 127Capt. L. C. Bower, 63 73the old oval hut, 53 269

r . of ell bs on Mont Blane, 42 372Deutsch am Nanga Parbat, 47166BUndne Alpen, Band IV, 47 389Auf Ku dfahrt im Himalajo" 60 158In the in and the Sun, &6 85

o it. of M imin Gaspard, 39 307J. H. W 'newrlght, 40 153Christia Klueker, 41 198IH. z. To 'ng-Jettenbach, 41 399H. T. M rshead, 43 351General acquemot, 43 392J. W. H ley, 44 110Joseph avanel,44 117,H. G. B ke, 44 287

~

rd Me huen,45 144· W. shfield,46 166· S. Ki g,46 176rs. A. Blond, 46 382• M. Bel', 47 352

· O. Sc uster, 48 330

~z. Co ,49 117I'd Co way of Allington, 49 253

",J. M thersilI, 49 262

g.Wilso , 60 115· Yeld'~O 280· G. Br ee, 52 105

U. W. Watt, 52118

~tJIrich A mer, 52280'. e. Op enheim, 53 62· N. Co 'e, 54 61

I

Strutt, E. L. :obit. of E. R. Blanchet, 54 194-

Josef Pollinger, 54 296Aloia Pollinger, 55 307E. H. 8revens, 66 300W. Williams, 56 69C. R. Paravioini, 58 265

valedictory address, 50 Ieleoted hon. member of G.H.M., ·111220eleoted hon. member of A.A.C.•.t S.A.C.,

44 131eleoted hon. member of C.A.I., 45 402relinquishes editorship of Alpine .Tournal,

49271obit. & port., 68 396

Struve; K. C. P.: • Hill-roaming in Norway,'58 222

obit. of R. Workman, 57 4-09A. M. Robinson, 67 562

Stubai Alps: 41 294 .guide bool, & maps for, 41 303

Studer, B.: expeditions with J. D. Forbes,54 383-4

Studer, J. P.: obit., 58 266Studer, R. M.: obit. ofJ. P. Studer, 58. 266

Sturdee, Mt (N.Z.): aso., 42 348StutJ1eld, H. E. M.: obit. & port., 41 391Stutfield, Mt (Canada): 1st aso., 48 291Styles, S.: his book: A Climber in Wales,

67119Suore, Pain de: by N. face, 50 305

ill., 50 3()4...5 •Slidlenzspitze (see Lenzspitze)Sugan (Cauoasus): ill.,42 285Sugan, Lit.tle: asc., 42 285Suganbashi (Caucasus): 1st aso., 48 107Sugantau (Cauoasus): 1st aao. by S. ar~to,

48106Sugarloaf (Sikkim): attempts, 60 111-12,

13197,201Builven (Scotland): W. faoe, 46 261-2Sulden: hotel book entries from, 58 128Sulzbach gI., Ober: ill., 47 324-Summermatter, Johann: 53 12

obit., 58 268Sundt, E.: obit. of W. C. Slingsby, 41 383

rev. of Tirich Mil' Til Topps, 58 151Supersaxo, Ambros: obit., 44 300

ports., 44 300, 54 123Supersaxo, Benedict: death, 54 80Supersaxo, Oscar: obit., '65 99Supersaxo, Othmar: death, 68 84Suphellenipa (Norway): asc., 47 2758urkar Pass: 13 323Surlej, Piz: ski aIlC., 43 287Surts-He1lir, Caves of (Iceland): 40 90Susadorf, L. (jr.): death,S3 169Susten Pass: road commenced, 49 277Svartsundtind (Lofoten): asc., 51 52Swachha.nd Pk. (Garhwal): 1st aso., 51 82Swan, F. E. L.: death,43 179,218Swanzy Pk. (Canada): ill., 54 154-5Sweden: 1928 season in, 40 405

69Switzerla~d: a 0 ntury ago, 54 175

letters I from, 5 286, 53 171, 264, 393,54 2~' 66 21 ,223, 226

Symonda .T.: • book: The Great Beast:the lif< of Aleia l' Crowley, 58 423

TABLE OUNTAI (S. AFRICA): o,scs., 13390-

& The electabill.,53 0

War Memori service on; 58 376TaouI, . uille du: ill., 49 9Taoul B sin, the: Dr. Paccard's explora.

tion f,49 1ill., 49

Tafonato Capo ( orsica): asc.,43 247ill., 43 48-9

Taghrat, j. (Atl ): aso., 46 113Taillon, ~: aBC.,40 38

ill.,40 0Tairraz, uguste: death, 60 148Takht.i.S

3Ieiman Persia): attempt, 45 337,

47361st aBC.,49 245group:

clim Bin, 47 99corr ponden re, 48 400 .

ill., 47 04-9, 4 246-7TiiJihorn by N. arete attained from W.,

60309Talleitspi ze: aBC 53 346Tanaka, .: hi book: Mountaineering,

41241Tangs, of S. Persi : 48 357Tanner, • A. :

his boo (editor: Zehn Jahre BergfllhrerKine ar's' H 1'1',' 48 437

Tarfalatj kko (La land): aBC.,50 253Taridalt ( oggar) tr., 58 271Tll.sohho : by l' ufelsgrat, 43 33, 57 175

by W. ace, 48 87, 47 155byE.iloe,S3S 7S. face, 2nd asc. 47 362, 48 185

3rd c., 54 3 , 3954th c., 66 3 9

by S.E. arete, 137·Dom t ., 42 89, 55 6, 393 n.

atte pted, 55 391ill., E. ce, 40 56

S. fa e, 43 35, 54 308from IAlphube , 42 91from ~en g~l.(1934 route), 47 154Teuf1lsgrat, 34

Taseko, t (Can It): 1st asc .• 47 290Tasman g . (N.Z.): accident: 1930: 42136Tasman, t (N.Z.): history, 39266

1st tr., 165,2 8E. ridg ,1st asc , 43 398N.ridg ,attem ,45305

asc., 6208by E. i rib & BtdeBc., 51140ill., S. r~dge, 39 65, 53 91

W. ri~e, 39 2i 0

III

70 INDEX TO VOLUMlpJS 39 t9 58

Tasman, Mt (N.Z.): TeWn,Gran~: by E. ridge, 42267ill., N. ridge, 39 271, 282 ilI

f, 42 268

E.face, 39 269 IfromN•. ,42267from Dayid's Dome, 39 283 ~E' ridge 42 274from Mt Cook, 50 221 Tet gona, t (I,abrador): asc., 46 31N. & W. ridges, 45 307 Teu elsschlos (Greenland): 1st asc., 45 396,from The Anzacs, 41 312 4641

Tasmania: climbs in, & ill., 51 250,54 149 ',46 38Tatham, M. : •Tallmania'smountains,' 51 250 Th atuwe S. Africa): 1st aso., 41 406

'From Norway to New Zealand,' 54 143 P . N. of, st asc., 41 406Tatlow, Mt (Canada): 1st asc., 47 290 'I'he t, Gebe : aso., 42 232Tatro.Mts: 47 310, 48 15, 54 360, 56 236 Thel>dulhom: tr., to Breuiljoch, 43 13

ill., 47 311-15, 48 16-17 Thepdule P : early crs., 46 147-9Tatraspitze: asc., 47 314, 48 20 Thetcher gl. Himala,ya): ill., 40 30--1Tattersall, E. S.: obit., 54 71 Theyta.z, Th phile: port., 51 314Tatton, R. G.: death, 46 403, 47195 ThiljnblePk. (Canada): 1st aso., 43 170Tauern, Hohe: climbs in, 48 61 Tho as, E.: 'Six years and the Four-

accident: ]935: 47 152 Thousa ders,' 41 49Taugwalder, Franziskus: death, 41 435 ' iguilles nd Dolomites,' 45 268Taugwalder, Peter (jr.): Fiihrerbuch pre· Tho as, T.: death, 39 152

sented to A.C., 40 408 Tho pson, . E.: obit., 48 165port., 39 154 Tho pson, ' M.: obit. & port., 45 147

Taugwalder, Peter (sr.): & the Matterhorn, Th pson, ; A.: obit. of C. M. Thompson,55290 147

Whymper's story re, 57 108 son, D rby: body found, 40 195Taylor,E. R.: obit. & port., 44 289 n, G : death, 53 264Taylor, M. S. : T son, s. Roberts: death, 48 184

obit. of W. Bellows,54 72 Thorington, . Monroe:J. R. Jenkins, 68 174 'Climbs' the Forbes.Lyell and other

Technicalities: 41 287 !groups f the Canadian Rockies,' 39 52Teichelmann, E.: obit., 51 124 'I portr it medal of Conra.d Gesner,'

port., 51 128 40 145Teichelmann,Mt (N.Z.): Ist asc., 41236,310 'imler's" Vallesiae Descriptio et de

ill., 41 312 Alpibus Commentarius." The history ofTekarra, Mt (Canada): asc., 55 66 the De hou copy,' 40 141Teleccio,CoUe: cr., 48 186 ' he Jou nal of Mrs. M. Beaufoy,' 40 261Tellersack, the (Styria): 44 250 ' ,arly as ents of Mont Blanc: ••YoungTemple, Mt (Canado.): aso., 43 75, 55 69 Woodle ," 1788,' 43 308Tennent, N.: •Greenland, 1950, Po.rt I,' 'limbs i the Freshfield and other groups

68 192 oHhe adian Rockies, 1930,' 43 75Tenneverge, Corne Nord du Chamois de: • he Alp 1e mo.ps of Aegidius Tsohudi,'

aBO.,41 412 46 146Tent Pk. (Sikkim): Ist o.SO.,51 327 ' ont B nc : notes on early ascents,'

2nd Pk., 1st aso., 49 44 47 118ill., 42 221, 49 48-9 ' . A. C pman,' 48 142

Teo, Pizzo del: by W. ridge, 43 377 '~he No h wing of the Columbio.group,Tepe, El (Bulgaria): 880., 46 398 Canadi n Rooky Mountains,' 48 290Tepli group (Co.ucallus): climbing in, 48 94 ' Lo.Pie des Anglo.is,'48 140

Pt. 4014, 1st asc., 48 114 'fA note n the ,naming of Mt Robson,'ill., 48 96 I 48 322

Teplitau (Co.ucasus): 1st aso., & ill., 48 ] 15 'ISledginga Ill. Ro.masse,'53 59Terminal Pk. (Co.nado.): ill., 57 516-17 'IDisto.nt ausine of the Abomino.bleSnow·Terminillo: asc., 56 114 : man,' S 76Temyk Needle (King George Island): asc., 'IThe Ian slip on l\lout Gro.n1erin 1248,'

66. 57mill., 58 73 ' Lncebell Hare and the St. Gervais

Tete Co.rree: MO.,52 14 route t Mont Blanc,' 57462Tetnuld (Caucasus): attempt, & accident, Albert Stnlth s Mont Blanc 1851-1951

Is:~~~ty N. face, 49 277, 50 30 : DS:ka~el: I~passive scie:tist,' 66 16:'tr., 43 400 '"JOhn A Idjo, fortunate traveller,' 66ill., from Zanner gl., 41 167 ' 459

N. face (1937route), 49271 note: re erenoes to literature on Whym.E. fQ.CP"50 29 per's Canadio.nexpedition, 43 388

INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 to 1i8 71

Thorington, J. Monroe:note: Mont Blanc, early American ascents,

45163lost mementoes of Albert Smith, 46 215an early British accident in the Bemina,

46 216Dr. Barry's ascent of Mont Blanc, 47 369some early British climbers, 50 144the ibex, 50 330from Chamonix, 50 331the marmot, 51145early dra,wings, 51 146Canadian notes, 52 141youth and age on Mont Blanc, 54 79Governor Spotswood's Tram.ontane ex·

pedition, 54 317the Columbia icefield, 58 290Luc Meynet and the Matterhorn, 57421Mont Aiguille, 58 272

his books: Mont Blanc Sideshow, 46 242(editor): Where the Clouds can go,

47382(with H. Palmer) : A Climber's Guide to

the Rocky Mountains of Canada,43 205

A Climber's Guide to the InteriorRanges of British Columhia, SO 164

On Conrad Gesner and the Mountaineer-ing of Theuetdank, SO 346

Early American Ascents in the Alps inthe Nineteenth Century, 54 326

rev. of The Structure of the Alps, 40 210The Sierra Nevada: Range of Light,

57120Au Royaume du Mont-Blanc, 57 590Of Men and Mountains, 58 277

obit. of Conrad Kain, 46 195O. W. Holmes, 47 348W. Williams. 66 68D. Underhill, 58 263

elected hon. member of Alpine Club, 65 426Thornley,.r. W.: death,S8 126, 130Thorsmii.rk: ill., near, 40 89Three Thousanders, British: ascS., 41 229Throne, Mt (Canada): lst MC.,40 196Thumb Pk. (Canada): 1st asc., 40383, 41353

1st asO.from N., 43 259Thunderbolt (Canada): ski MC., 56 40Thurwieserspitze: asc., 53 352

attempt by N. face, 63 347Thyrill, Mt (Iceland): ill., 40 95Tiedrnann, Mt (Canada): .ill, 47 292-3Tiefenstock: by N.E. face, 48 176

ill., N.E. fuce (1935 route), 48 176-7Tigmal (Hoggar): MC., 58 271Tignes: ill., 57 148Tiktl'ngen (Caucasus): attempt, 42 347

1st MO.by W. arete & 1st tr., 48 362, 49 79Tilly, C. S.: 'The Brenva Face (2),' 5&298Tilly, T. H.: 'An ascent of Chomiomo,'

56340TiIlye: port., 52 46Tilman, H. W. :

, The ascent of Nanda Devi,' 49 13

Tilman, n.w. : ,'Lachs and thei Zemu Gap,' 50 271'Moun Everesll, 1938,' 513'Assa Himal~a unvisited,' 52 53'Zagh an by erey light,' 54 171'Biaitu ,'5527'Stran e doings in the Dolomites,' 65 158'Raka oslli,' 329'More ews fro Ta.rtary,' 57184, The epal Hi alaya,' 57 305, The napum Himal and South side of

Ev t,' 58 01.note; 'ount erest, 1938, 60 323his bo ks: Th Ascent of Nanda Devi,

49292Sno onthe quator,50 153Whe Men a d Mountains Meet, 55 431Mou t Evere ,1938, 56 297Two :Mount . s and a River, 57 428Chin to Chi a.l, 58 413

award dFound r's Medal ofR.G.S., 58532Timorio i"Punta:. 1st recorded asc., 58 261Tirich M : reco aissanee, 57 256, 422, 571

histor ,58 41st ase, 58 6m., 47 '368, 48 28. 58 6, 7

Tirsuli P s.: 63 3attern t on E. k., 53 44aocide t, 53 45ill., 53

Titus: 0., 40 3 51st asc by N. f1ce, 6481

Tiutiunt u (Caue us):1st . & tr. to Breithorn of Ulluauz,

4622identit of, 47 61m.,46 25.47 62

Tobin, H. W. :note : ~ntema ional Himalayan gather-

ing, 411Toby, M (Canad ): 1st tr., 40 383Toerring ettenb h, H.z.: obit., 41 399Tofana d Rocces MCS.,46 327

ill.,46 27Toluca, evado d (Mexico): aso., 45 94'fominse , S. :

•The .W. fa e of the Skrlatica in the.Tuli n Alps,' 1 75

Tondu, t: ascs. SO 193, 52 13Tongarir (N.?:.); ill., 4996-7Tonsber H.: 0 it. of W. C. Slingsby, 41

383Tops ofTorelli, ta: 1st inter aso., 60 321Torngat ts (La. ador): 46 28Toro, Pi 0 del (A dos): 1st aso. by E. ridge,

58135Torres, t (N.Z.): 2nd asc., 39 168, 284Torrone, Ago del 1st Me., 55 13-14

ill., 55 9Torrone riental : 55 13

aso., 127ill., 55.9 I

Tos (KulU): ill., ~3 328-9

72

Toan.,Cima: from N., 1st recorded aae., 42 115Me., 46 323.

Tot Tau (Caueaaus): 1st aae., 41 167Toubkal, Dj. (Atlas): asea., 40 228, 45 107,

111ill., 45 96, 116

Toubkltl·0uenkrhn Maaaif (Morocco) : 40 224Tonie, Aiguille de: tr., 45 236Tour, Aiguille du:- aae., 48 137Tour, Cot du: cr., 64 259Tour d'EntrElVea: variation on, 66 404Tour, La (King George Island): ase., 58 71Tour Noir: aaea., 41 36, 43 129

tr., 53254ill., 51 112

Tour Noir, Col du: cr., 39 40ill., 3944

Tour Ronde, Col Eat de la: cr., 53 101Tour Ronde: new deac., 53 109Tower Pk. (Labrador): asc., 46 32Tozat, Mt (N. Africa): 1st MC., 50 138

ill.,50 140Trafoier Eiswand: by N. face, 53 352Tragta (Lofoten): (see Rorhoptind, Store)Traills Pass (Himalaya): cr., 40 33

ill., 40 37Training: effects due to rarity of air when,

48 137Trango g\. (Karakorum)': ill., 50 34Traunta.rovM, Piz: aki Me., 43 285Travers.Jaokson, G. F.: port., 66 375Traversette, Pertuia de 10,: history, 54 140Trelatllte, Aiguilles de: asc., 41 36

N. Aig.: 1st MC. by S. face, 45 405TrelatOte, Col de: cr., 41 36Tremoggia, Piz: accident: 1931: 43 412Tre Pietre, Mte: MC., 58 524TrP..s,Torre de (Corsioa): 1st MC., 40 174Trezuhetz (Caucasus): lat asc., 50 21

ill., GO 20Tribe, W. N.: obit. & port., 40 366Tribulll>unKamm: 41 299Tn'bulaun, Ptlerscher: new route on, 40 185

aBc.,41 299by E. arete, 63 344

Tribulazione, Becchi della :Central pk., asc., 48 187

Trident Ridge: ill., 40 45Trier, F. N.: obit., 58396Triftjoch: use of abandoned, 53 12Triglav:

asc., 58 380N. face: attempt, 39 332

Diagonal route, 39 333Bl1yerlander Weg, 39 333by attempted • Jug' route, 43 379Black Gully route, 42 78Buttress route, 42 84Central route, 39 137Slovene route, 39 136, 49 105, 50 92winter aBC.,51 243

ill.,N. face, 39136, 138,42 78, 80, 85,51244routes up W. wing of, 43 379from S., 5091

,

Tdmbolacc a, Cirque de (Corsioa): ill.,45142

Trtolet, Aig ille de: from Mt Dolent, 42 106ht ase. N. face, 44 312.oeident 1938: SO 334

11.,N. fa e,40 146, (1931 route) 44 312T sui: 64 66-70

nd aBO., 5400,46 142'so., 58 20. 1.,40 281, 46 142, 54 168, 55 376-7

Tr lltind (~orway): aso., 56 369

T,~~rf.§.·l~~37~:M';_'"4S 332

st aBc., 370ccidellt: 1934: 46 371ttemPts~46 370

. ,,45 33 -3, 46 370-4l' ,a:r, Mt ( lana~a): aso., 67 508 "

bmasoa gl.: ill., pks. at head of, 41 370Tr gberg: 1;1'., SO 312·1'1' fan: 631119

coident: 1935: 47 153il.,53 12

Ts ,Aiguill de la :coident I ]939: 51 341c., 53 3 5, 66 134by the salion rib, 51 134

Ts harner, . B. von: poem on the Bernina,408

Ts hingel( oolidge's dog): ill., 51 260Ts hingelgr t: by N. face, 47146Ts hingelho rner: ill., 43 128Ta hingello htighorn: aso. & ill., 49 172'1's hingelsp tz: aBe" 47 146Ts opi.Kall i (Andes): 1st aBC.,45 4J

i .,4539Ts hudi, A dius: Alpine maps of, 46 146Ts humurts herall Tau (CaUOMtls): highest

k., 1st 0.,41 167Ts pan Kh kh (Cauoasus): attempt, 48 90Ts gitaka ( ormoaa): 46 329, 331Tu by, A... : obit. & port., 42 98Tu ker, G. D. R.: poem: E. Tellebris,

66168bit.,68 18

Tu ker, H .. : death, 55 100, 120Tu kett, F. F.: 55·135,429

rly tra ela in Graians, 56 256Tu , Colle d 1: 1st tourist or., 58 261Tn , Pta de : 1st aBe.,48 186Tu bel' Paas (Oauoasus): cr.,41168Tu alatau ( auoasus): S. pk., 1st aBC.,48110l' a,H.:

is book Pomen in Razvoj Alpinizma,44149

TU~iSia: 01mbing in, 64171, 57545Tu. per, l\it Canada): 1st tr. by S.S.E. & W.

ridges, 265, 268so.,54 1

.. , 43 26 ,54 154Tufper.Car 'Y,A. D.: dea.th, 64 200, 213

III

73

let asOo, 43

I

INDEX TO VOLUMES ~9 to 58 !

I

Tyndall, (Pic: bYj'S.face, 53 387Tyrol: c~mbs in outh, 46 320

foul pi Y in, 58 538Tzashiu II. (Cauc us): ill., 48 98

UBINA, NA(Sp IN): asc., 44 228Uja Tirc Ie (Him yas): 1st asc., & ill.,

5856--Ullarg okh (C ucasus): by N.E. ridge,

48115Ullman, . R. : ' '

his bo s: Hi the Story ofM untain ring, 63 271

:~~1 ~~:eo;~::~~n::::c;sm~::::: ,67fil ed,57 70

Ulluauz reithor (Caucasus): ill., 48 225Ulluauz ass: cr. 47162Ulrichsh rn: ill., 1 324Ultima, a: ill., 45 365Ultrama gne, La e: ill., 42 43Uma.nak Greenla d): 1st asc., 41 428

attem ,58 I9ill., 68 194

Umm Sh mer, Ge I (Egypt): asc., 42 233Umzimk lu Valle (S. Mrica): pk. at head

of, 1st SC., 41 6Underhil , D.: 0 it., 58 263Underh' , M. E. 'Sampling the Eastern

AlPS,'! 74Underhi ,R. L.. :' The Grand Teton by

the ast ridg " 42 267note: I the S· one-Torrone-Rasica tra-

versl,45160Unna, P J. H.: 'Avala,nche days in the

Oha ulztal,' 7 322, Rope Ifor mou taineering,' 58 76, Fuels for mon tain cooking,' 58 5Unote: odat olomieu: 57 421rev. 0 Snow tructure a,nd Ski Fields,

48 383The ,airngor

obit. 0 W. A.obit,., 8 liB

Unna,m Peaks267-8,

Unterbii~' horn: I., 43 56 'Untermii chjoch: ill., 52 127Unwin, ancia ( pine artist): 56 43, 57 96Unwin, t (Ca,n a.): ill., 41 350, 42 36Unwin, . F.: d th, 47148, 196Upernivi Island 58 202Ura.mats , S.: The S.W. a.rl!te of the

Wette om, 42 260Urnedals a,rte (N a,y): ill., 58 222Urquha. ,F. F.: dea,th, 46 407Urziwa . Pass ( aucasus): cr., 42 280Ushba ( ucasus):

attem s, 41 1 7, 42 347, 47 368, 48 112,502

height, 48 117 ~., 60 7II

Turc, Joseph: obit., 53 384Tur Khokh (Caucasus): 1st asc. by S. ridgc,

48Il5TUl'kistall, glaciers of: 41 266Turnbull, H. W.: 'My friends, the moun-

tains,' 56 23obit. of R. C. G. Moggridge, 55 423

Turner, .T. W. M. (artist): 6644Turner, S.: obit., 41 402Turnerkampf: ill., 48 64--5Turet, Iln (Jura): asc., 45 9Turret, Mt (Canada): 1st asc., 40 196Tusse Casteret (Caucasus): asc.,47 109Tutoko (N.Z.): ascs., 1st & 2nd, 44 143

by a new route, 48 1881st MO. by S. arete, 68 2] 7

Tutton, A. E. H. :rev. of Tectonic Essays. mainly Alpine,

48 201Snow Structure and Ski Fields, 48 380Mountain Geography, 49 288

obit., 50 295Tvilisis (Caucasus): asc., 48 116Twecdsmuir, Lord: obit. & port., 62 122Twins, the (Kangchenjunga): attempts,

4944,51327ill.,60 IlO

Twist Lake: ill., 47 292-3Twynam, H. J.: obit. of C. J. Stevenson-

Moore,56 174Tyler, J. E.: his book: The Alpine Pa.sses

(Middle Ages), 43 194Tyndale, H. E. G.:

, First affections,' 63 302'Second thoughts,' 661his book; Mountain Paths, 66 409rev. of The Romance of Mountaincering,

47174Die Weisse Kordillere, 48 190Damon Himalaya, 48 192Anton Oitzinger: ein Bergfiihrerleben,

48194The Spirit of the Hills, 48 197Urn den Gipfel del' Welt, 48 386Vom Mont Blanc zum Wilden Kaiser,

49138Wie anders ist das Besteigen del' Alpen

geworden! 49 297Willy Merkl :ein Weg zum Nanga Parbat,

49299obit. of M. R. C. Overton, 52 279

C. H. Powell, 54 290J. Kugy, 54293W. T. Lister, 54 433

appointed Editor of Alpine Journal, 49 271tribute to, 66 315, 67 95 .obit. & port., 66 386

Tyndale-Bisooe, G. W. T.:, Dr. Neve's visit to the Mushik I.a, ]895,'

6666Tyndall, J.: 54 379, 381-2

memorial insoription, 54 440on Mt. Blanc, 65 126& Penicillin, 58 536

74 INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 t~ 58I

Ushba (Caucasus): Vel4>u,Mt~. sc., 56 1292nd tr., 48 117 .. , 53 1mountain wall of, 58 256 ve!ta, Pica ho de la (Spain): asc., 4041S. Pk., ascs., 42116,45 397, 46 366-9 il ., 39 28

1st by W. face, 49 85 ve~ digcr, ross: asc., 48 621st by S.E. ridge & E. face, 50 28 a a ski t r, 47 322

ill., 46 364-9,49276-7,5028 i .,4732 5Uto Section, S.A.C. : Ve ezuela ( e also Special List), 52 70. 53

book: 'l'he Technique of Alpine Moun- ,127taineering, 48 207 i ., rots 0 , 5270-85,53130-1

Ve getind, tore: asc., 56 371Ver 'ne, La aso., 55 18

VAAGEKALLEN(LOFOTEN): asc., 43 271, Ver et, C.: obit. of C. Gos, 57 23551 60 Ver et, J.: his book: Au Coourdes Alpes,

Vail, E. L.: death,47 148, 196 280 'Vajolettiirme: asc., 45 272, 46 325, 51 34, Ve on, R .• : death, 54 77, 95

5324 Ver choyle, . S.: obit., 44 296ill., 45 270 Ve hambek Mt (Lazistan): ascs., 44 333,

Valentine.Richards, A. V.: obit. & port., 29945 346 tanklah I'n: asc., 56 362

Valettina, Cima della: 1st asc. by N. face, e, Aig lle: accidents: 1928: 40 41943 361 1931: 43 407

Valletta, Colle: 1st tourist cr.• 68 261 cs., by .E. face, '41430,44 331, 45 161Vallot, C. : by S.W arete, 40 391, 41 37

his books: Saussure aux Alpes, 50348 : from guille du Jardin, 39 143, 52 139(withC. E. Engel) : Tableau litteraire du i, winter, 3 138

Massifdu Mont Blanc, 42 367 llftempts Birkbeck (1864),44 331CesMonts all'reux, 46 431 i probab 1st, 63 47

elected hOll.member of Alpine Club,41220 £ rIDerno, e, 41 114n., 49 4 n.awarded Croix de Ill. Legion d'Honneur, .E. face: supposed (1875)asc., 42 123

43 185 involun ary desc., 44 337, 45 163Vallugl\: accident: 1927: 39171 . face, 1 t·desc.,66 108Valpelline,Tete de: asc.,43 35 .,5030 ,52227,5318Valtournanche: early visits to, 56 294 i .,5222Vampire, Mt (N.Z.): 1st asc. by E. ridge, Ve lepiggen (Norway): asc., 68 222

48 281 Ve to, La: ar-time experiences on, 55 158Vancouver, Mt (Alaska): 1st asC.,57 484 Vi, A. E•. : his book: Alpine Glaciers,

ill., 57 484-5 429 .Vancouver (N.Z.): asc. & tr., to Dampier, Vi nin, Jos ph: his livret de guide, 57 61

57 538 Vi ·Presid nt, Mt (Canada): asc., 54 401Vandeleur, C. R. P.: 'A view hunter in Vi oria gJ. Canada): retl'eat of, 44 267. I.

Norway,' SG 364 '1.,4426 ,268•High mountain walls,' 67 187, 58 256 Vi OOria,M (Canada): ascs., 46 83-4, 55 65, The love of mountains,' 68 505 Vi dal, Joh nnes H.: obit., 42 100

Vanoise, Aigui1lede 10.: asc.,44 202 Vi nemale: desc. by Couloir de Gaube,ill., 44 203 280

Val'dy, J. A.; death, 54 437, 455 V' erSPitzieI ROhe.: 1st asc., 41 299 n.Vareschi, V. : ., 53 34 n.

his book (with Krause, E.): Mountains in Vi sha: .. , 46 3QOFlower, 52156 Vi ey, E.: rev. of Over Lakeland Fells,

Vatnajokull (Iceland): 48 267, 263 415bibliography, 48 275 V· 'glio, A. I his book: Jean Antoine Carrel,ill., 48 268-9 117 I

Vaulion, Dent de: Goethe'sasc., 53 368 Vi 0 Valley Pks. (Corsica): 39292Vazzeda, Cima de: asc.,66 13 Vi 0, Mte: asc.,54 141

by N,W. face & S.W. arilte, 40 169 st asc. W.N.W. face, 43 355tr., 48 63 st comp ete circuit of, 54 376ill., 49 169 V· olotoo: y N. face, 52 138

Veazey, H. G.: his book: The Epic of V· ser, P .• :Adelboden,68 150 is book with J, Visser-Hooft): Scientific

obit., sa 264 Result of the Dutch Expedition to theVedinkot gl. (Chitral): & ill., 47 101 Karak ram. Volume II. Glaciology,Veisivl, Dents de: Grande, tr., 53307 51 152

Petite, asc., 53 304 !/-warded ack Grant of R.G.S., 41 424

Visser.Hooft, J. (!I:ladame):her book: Among the Kara·Koram

Glaciers in 1925, 39 186death, 61 329

Vitosha, Mt (Bulgaria): 46 301annual ma.ss asc., 46 302

Vologata (Caucasus): 1st aso. by N. face,47112 ,

Vysoka, Kleine (Tatra): by N. arete, 48 16Vyvyan, M.: 'A Journey in the Western

Karakoram,' 51 231

WAAmOCHIPx. (S. AFRIOA): ill., 49 234-5Waddington, Mt :

accident, 47 83, 299attempts, 40 99, 47 83, 297-9historical notes, 40197,414official name, 40 99N.W. Pk.: 1st asc., 40 415, 41 160

2nd asc., 47 2973rd asc., 47 299 n.

S.E. (highest) Pk.: lilt aso., 48 360, 4949

ill., from S.W., 40 100S.W. face, 49 53from Mt Chris Spencer, 41 165from Franklin gl., 4780-1from Ioefall Pt., 49 52various, 47 78, 292-3, 296-7,4954-5

Wager, L. R. :note: E. J. Garwood, 67 418awarded Back Grant ofR.G.S., 50 317awarded Spendia.rov Prize, 57 96

Wainewright, J. H.: obit. & port., 40151Wakefield, A. W.: obit., 67 408Wales, North: hydro·electrio schemes for,

67 101rock climbing in, 63 115

Walker, C. W.: obit. of H. F. B. Sharp,50133

Walker, F. B. D.: obit., 55 94Walker, Horaoe: initials on the Gemmi

route,56 102Walker, J. C.: obit.,64 193Walker, J. H.: ilis book: WA.lkingin the, Alps, 68 287Walker, J. M. S.: obit. of J. O. Walker,

64193Walker, J. 0.: obit. ofR. S. Low, 58399

Christian Almer III, 43 353Walker, Lucy: 64 57-8Waller, H.: obit. of O. Bloch, 56 98Waller, J.: 'Masherbrum, 1938,' 50 199

his book: The Everlasting Hills; 52 154letter: from the Western Desert, 63 395

Walter, Mt (N.Z.): tr., 39 342Walton, W.lI, M.: 'Some notes on climbing

in Formoll8,,' 46 328, Ontake, the Sacred Peak,' 58 234his book: Scrambles in Japan and

Formosa,. 47. HI9Wandel Land (Greenland): asc., 47 53

75WandflulIhorn: Iby Mayer.Dibona route,

58523 I

wanneh~n, Gros~: by S.W. arete, 43 376,52

ill, f m S.W. 1931 route), 43 373Wanneh rn, Klei : by S.E. face, 47 364Ward, . 0.: 001 de la Brenva: the

Aigqille de chaux,' 40 45obit. o~ G. E. ask, 68 112

Warren, !C. B.. :' The Gangotri glacierand~I.eo Par ial,' 46 306

'Mou tain·sic ess and the physiologicalpro lems of igh altitude mountaineer·ing, 51 271,

rev. 0 Let's go Climbing, 53 276obit. o~C. Kir us, 64 313

Warren;¥.t «(',ana a): 1st asc., 40 383,41349ill.,411350

Warren, ,R. H. :f,bit., 53 378Warren, IMrs. W' 'am: death,51 326Washbwtn, B.: 'The ascent of Mt Lucania,'

• :~~cent O~fount St. Agnes, Chuga.chRa e, Alas ' 51 207

his bo k: Am ng the Alps with Bradford,40~2 .award d the uthbert Peek Grant ofR.O S., 50 3 7 '

Watersh Pk. ( eshfleld Group, Rockies):1at as ., 43 168

Watkins H. G.! 'The British Arctic AirRo Expo 'tion,' 44 177

award Foun er's Medal ofR.G.S., 44 140obit. port., 294

Watkins Mts (G eenland): climbs in, 48 40ill., 48 48-9 ! .

Watson, B. W.: !Oblt.,64 192Watts, . H. ~: obit. of Count A. de

Suzan et, 68 1 5Watzm : E. e, asos., 47 344, 50 85

in win/>er,43 1 0& ~cidents, 47 151, 49 124

tr., 5~1345 tWeckert, W.: • he Swiss Caucasus oxpedi.

tion,' , 360 I , 'Wedder urn, E .. M.: obIt., 66 90

port., 589Wedge k. (Can ): 1st asc., 43 261, 267Wedge k. (Him layas): 1st asc., 51327Wegene G.: hi book: Das Gastgeschenk,

SO 34Weisse rau: as ., 54 25

S. fac~ history 47 89ill., 43 133, 47 46

vie from, Ii 101Weissho n:

a.ccide t: 193 : 45 413, 194: 67257

ascs.,4156by tS.E. fa ,SO 136, 53 298by ,W. rid 0, 50 320, 68 261, 4721st . om SCh;lIenberg gl., 67 5261st , inter, Ii 535

attempt, 58 46

76

Weisshorn:tr. by N. & S.W. ridges, 40 392, 41 47

by S.W. & N. ridges, 53 7B, 67 ]74by E. & N. ridges, 66 8, 68 466

ill., 41 47,68472 .Weiaskugel: 40 298

ascs., 48 61,63 346iII., 40 296

Weissmies: deso. by N. ridge, 40 391idesc. by E. face, 43 373, 52 64lISo., 50 192ill., E. face, 40 395

(19Bl & other routes), 43 374Weisstor, Neu: cr., 53 286Welcome, Mt (Canada): 1st aso., 41 238Weld, C.: early travels in Graians, 68 253Wellenkuppe :

asc.,58 1351st., 41 227,51 3321st by N.E. face, 48200by N.W. face, 42 126

dese. by N. ridge, 42 126tr., 43 9, 44 204

Welligl1at: tr., & ill., 44 61Wells, E. G.: obit., 68 526Welzenbach, W.: tribute to, 47156Wengem Alp: 1st cr., 40 272 n.

ill., 40 265 .Wenhwm, C. H.: death, 49 121West Alpen Club: book: Bergkameraden,

52290West, W. C.: 'The Mountain Club of South

Africa,' 58 373note: Cedarbergen group, 64 315port., 58 375

Westem, G. T.: death, 66403Westmorland, H.: 'Wartime climbs in

Canada,' &565rev. of Climber's Guide to Cascade and

Olympic Mountains of Washington,51270

port., 63 377Westall, W.: note: Fuji-San, 42 129

obit. ofF. C. Bainbridge-Bell, 40 365T. C. Fry, 42 97G. F. Browne, 42295W. G. Edwards, 48 165

memorial tablet erected by Japanese A.C.,50 325

il1., 50 319obit. & port., 52 271

Wetterhom:early ases., 56 82, 68 496

Speer's reputed 1843 attempt, 68 536ases., 1st of 3 pks. in 1 day, 63 188

1st by S.W. ar6te, 40 880, 42 260by N.E. face, 41210,56 324by N.W. face & ar~te, 43 175C. Wilson's, 49 170

tr.,47154by N. face, N.E. & S.W. aretes, 46 203

iIl.,422591928 route, 40 3801902 route, 40 381

I

Wetterhorn ~i~., N. fa4e (1928 & 1924 routes), 41 211. S.W. arete, 42 260

We~terhorn,1Scheidegg :If.W. fa~: 1st asc., 41 404, 42 1

! ascs., as 202, 50 312, 53 300, 55 324, 428I historyT 42 13

41., N.W. face (1929 route), 41 405, 424,7,9

fromN, 42 6N.W. fi ce (1930 route), 43 176,46 203

W terspitz, Mittlere: 1st asc. by N. face,9 151

Walley, T. S.: travels in the Graians, 66 56W ee1er, A. O. :

'Retreat of the ice in the CanadianCordill ra,' 44 263

bit. of A A.McCoubrey, 53 382bit. & rt., 56 205

W elan, P.S.: obit., 54 68Werry, G. E.: obit. & port., 41 190W 'te Pk. ( ikkim): 1st aso., 49 48W ite Sail k. (Kulu)~ 1st aso., 63 329

.. ,6332 -9W 'te-Tho son, C. R.: death, 46 414

bit,,46 90W itetip, t (Canada): aso., 41 162W 'tney, t (California): 46 90, 95

eight,4 432story, 334

, ., 41 32 , 334-5W 'tting, • G.: obit. & port., 60 128W ymper, .:

, an inte sting sidelight,' 46 164rtraits f, 53 156

gain,53 862Mum ry, 67 339Dr. Pa ard, 41 101suppa 1st aso. of Grand Cornier,

41226is grave 42343 .is dang ter's tr. of Matterhorn, 42 338

ten ,52283a mo tain prophet, 54 102the Ta gwa,lders, 56 290, 67 108ills. fa 'Sorambles,' 57 369Girdl tone, 57 370

is boo : Scrambles amongst the Alps,491 6 .

Trave amongst the Great Andes, 57431W yte, Mt (Canada): asc., 56 67Wen, K.: 'The disaster on Nanga Parbat,

1937,' 9213is Nang Parbat diary, 49 219bit. & rt., 49 265

W esbaehh rn: Gross:ecident 1932: 44 3480.,63 501st fro N., 49 281., N.W faoe, 44 348

Wessner, • H.: 'The first ascent of Mountaddinrdion,' 49 49

W ner, J:1H.: obit. of W. T. Kirkpatrick,160 I

INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 jta 68

Wigram, A. F.: obit., 63 383Wigr&m, E. H. L.: note: Mountain resoue,

55 193obit. of A. F. Wigram, 53 383obit., 65 304port., 55 297

Wilberforoe, J•. R. :obit. of R. T. Glazebrook, 48 158obit., 64 4.14 .

Wiloox Head (Greenland): asc., 47 54Wilcox, Mt (Oanada. ): asc., 66 67Wilczek Pk. (N.Z.): 43 82

1st asc., 48 357, 405, 49 91ill., 49 96-7

Wilde Leck: ill., 41 298Wilder Freiger: tr.,41 295Wilder Pfaff: by E. arete, 41 296

ill., 41 299Wildhorn: ski asc., 64 251Wildspitze, Oetztaler: aBC.,48 60, 63 344

ill., 48 60Wildspitze, Stubaier: tr., 53 346Wildstrubel: 8.8c.,43 134Willdnson, J. L.: travels in the Graians,

5660Williams, R.: obit., 54 78Williams, W.: elected hon. member of

Alpine Club, 49 271obit., 68 68

Williams, W. J.: obit. of R. Williams, 64 78obit., 67 558

Williamson, O. K.:• Notes on the East fMe routes of the

Dom,' 40 852, The first ascents of the Hohberghorn and

Stecknadelhorn from the Ried glacier,'41316

, Mountain walks in Majorca,' 60 239note: Nadelgrat, 1936,49 128on effects due to rarity of the air when

training, 48 137obIt. of A. J. Clark, 63 164elected hon. member of Mountain Club of

S. Africa, 46 220obit., 63 261port., 53 259

Willink, II. G.: note: the late Mr. ArnoldMumm, 40 399

obit. of D. W. Freshfield, 46 172G. E. Maude, 46178

watercoleur drawing reproduced, 60 189obit. & port., 60 283 .

Wills, A.: 64 101Wills·Norton family: & the Eagle's Nest,

48324Wills, W. A.: port., 60 124 .Wilson, C.: 'The Aiguilles d'Arves,' 40 12

'Accidents,' 44 28'The Wills·Norton family of the Eagle's

Nest,' 48 324'Climbing in the Sixties and the Seven·

ties,' 49167note: the Jungfraujoch, 40 188

the Southern Aiguille d'Arves, 41 371

77

78

Y.urn·Su CONGLOlltERATES:ill., 61 32Yana-Raju (Andes): attempt, 45 37Yardley, R. B. : obit. ofR. F. Norton, 41394Yasin~Northern: passes in, 47 316Yeld, G.: poem: Kamet, 49 241

rev. of The Hills of Peace, 43 204Diary of a Scotch Gardener at the

French Court at the end of theEighteenth century, 44 152

obit. of J. P. Farrar, 41 176A. Payot,44 298

1

INDEX TO VOLUJ!E839 tl> 581

Wood, W. A.: 'The ascent of Mt Steele,' Yeltl, G. : 1

48 81 obit.ofD W. Freshfield. 46 172'Shiva Temple and Wotan's Throne, ~s remini cenoesof G. Bobba, 48 186

Grand Canyon, 1937,' 50 257 fin~~yy.ear a member of the Alpine Club,'The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, 40179

Columbia,' 52 243 01 it. & rt., 50 279obit. of Harrison Wood, 50 299 Yithmid, G bel (Egypt): aso., 42 233

Woodroffe, G. F.: obit. of H. Cockburn, Y~isfjell ( orway): asc., 68 22248 156 YolilOgl. (C ada): retreat of, 44 269

death, 50 142 i ., 44 26 , 270Wolley; Mt: 2nd asc., 48 294 Yo emite N tional Park: as a mountaineer-Wordie, J. M.: 'Climbing in Greenland, i g cent ,4697

Petermann Peak,' 42 241 Yo ng, Sir G.: death, 42 343rev. of Two Men in the Antarctic, 52 291 Yo ng, G. t.:obit. of H. G. Watkins, 44 294 'Should the Mountain be brought toawarded Founder's Medal ofR.G.S., 45402 Mahom t?' 52172awarded Charles P. Daly Gold Medal of 'Mounta' Prophets,' 54 97

American G.S., 58 532 ote 1 a cents from Montenvers, 1929,WordswOl'ths,the: & Switzerland, 54 282 41 4 0Workman, R.: obit. & port., 57 409 Tltsehh rn, S. face, 48 185,54 308Workman, W. Hunter: obit., 50 290 conce g a misprint, 51 147

port., 50 289 two m untaineenng ladies, 56 184WortWngton, A. H.: death, 53 169 I is books:· On High Hills, 39174Worthington, W. B.: death, 52 283 Mount ins with a Difference,58 414Wotan's Throne (Colorado): 50257 Mount' Craft, 57274Wright of Durley, Lord: obit. of F. ev. of G rge Leigh Mallory. A Memoir,

Pollock,49108 ! 393 5Wright, C. E. I.: 'Knots for Climbers,' , Passio des Hautes Cimes, 55 326

40 120, 340' bit. of J P. Farrar, 41 186Wright, H. F.: obit., 51 309 G. E. herry,41 190

port., 51 307 W. C. lingsby,41 389Wright, J.E. B.: his book: Mountain Days C. M. athews,41 395

in the Isle of Skye, 46 435 Franz .ochmatter, 45 355Wright, Mt (N.Z.): Istasc., 44.t42 Laurel CrouK,51 128Wright, W. A.: death, 43 381, 44 178 J. N. ollie, 54 62Wund, T. von: death,41 425 F. Yo ghusband, 54 67Wyatt, C. W.: 'The Zillertal Alps,' 48 66 D. Lei hOOn,54 203

'Ski-mountaineering in New Zealand,' A. Car 011 Roberts, 65 954987 W. P. askett-Smith,55 416

'On ski through Arctic Lapland to the J. E .. Barford, S6 179North Cape,' 50 248 M. B. eywood, 56 279

'The Alpine Club Photographic F..xhibi· Lord esborough, 58 395tion, 1951,' 68 887 . C. Gas 57 237

Wyatt, J. W.: 'The Stubai Alps, Tyrol,' Albert Hopkinson, 67 41441 294 , Count . de Suzannet, 68 114

, The Ennstaler Alps, Styria,' 44 245 ! A. P. braham, 68404obit. of C. H. Brook, 61 306 hledic address, 54 215obit. & port., 52 118 lect,edh n. member of G.H.M., 39 155

Wylie, C.G.: 'A long day on Piz Palii,' 57 63 warded Hon. D.Litt. (Durham), 57 566Wyss, E.: his book: L'Appel des Som- eives Heinemann Literary Award, &

mets, 44 158 elee Fellow of the Royal LiterarySociet , 58 532

Y ung, P (Grandes Jorasses): aso., 53 17Y unghus and, F.: note: Shaksgam Sur·

ey Part, 1926,39241tho 8h ksgam valley, 41 429the la e Dalai Lama, 46 217

is boo : The Experiences of an Ex·pl0 r, 39 359

. Evere t: the Chal1enge,48 205~ev. of lack River of Tibet, 50 351~obit.& ~ort., 54 65

Y~goslavi ,68 379Yjlkon (se .Special Ust)

iNDEX TO VOLUMES 39:to58 79ZAGHOUA:N(TU:NISIA):asc., 54 171, 57545Zanner Pass (Caucasus): cr., 46 364-5,

47 116, 49 80, 50 32Zarra Raju (Andes): ill., E. Pk., 45 43Zaskar Pa.~s(Garhwal): 1st cr., 60 71Zdarsky, M.: appreciation of, 61 38

port., 51 37death, 62 285

Zebru, Gran (see Konigsspitze)Zej gl. (Caucasus): 48 88Zej range: 48 92Zemu Gap (Sikkim) : reached,39 161,60113,

63203Boustcad's expedition, 39 161cr., 60274

Zemu 'gl.: winter expedition to, 63 194Zermatt: to Chamonix via Mt Blanc, 48 181,

404news from (1940),62286in 1943, 64 200in 1951, 68 274ill., valley of (Sir J. Herschel's drawing),

67303Zillertal: ill., 48 253

Zillertal Alps: 48 6Zillertal ~rqup: ill. 40 298z!mbasPltl: aso., 3 343Zmal, Col e: or., 3392Zinal, Ptc e: tr., 477Zina! Rothprn (see othorn, Zinal)Zinnen, Dr~i: (see avaredo, Tre Cime di)Zocoa, Piz ~Mte di)

1st asc. ~y S. foo , 41 211by N.W.lface, 48 65ill., 43 3~0' 48 63

Zocca, For 010, di: lill., 48 63Zubkn. (Co, cn.sus) :~asc.• 60 18ZUCkerhii~t: asc., 3 344

ill., 40 2 9, 41 29Zugspitze: aso., 6 341-2Zupo, Piz aac., 4 62

ill., 43 3Z~brigg, , "",J, • tho ••• of Aoon·

oagun., 330 !

zuroher,~.: accid~nt, 53265asc. of is 250th j' viertausender,' 55 103

Zurnngal ( aucasu,): 1st asc., 48 107ill., 47 1~9

80 INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 58

SPECIA]~ DI Tl{ CTS

AFRICA1. centralMt Kenya. By P. Wyn Harris, 41 362The first traverse of the Twin Peaks of Mt Kenya. By E .• Shipton, 43 138A climb on Mt Kenya, February, 1941. By Lord • Doug .Hamilton, 53 215Kenya and Ruwenzori. By R. A. Hodgkin, 53 309Mt Kenya--fil'St ascent of the North face. By P•. Hicl«l, 65 76A few days on Mt Kenya. By J. W. Howard, 552The fil'St ascent of the South face of Mt Kenya. By A. H. F rmin, 65 400Kilimanjaro in 1927. By Miss S. Macdonald, 40 77 .Ruwenzori. By G. N. Humphreys, 39 99Mountains of the Moon. By E. E. Shipton, 44 88Ruwenzori from the West. By X. de Grunne, 45 275A Polish ascent of the East face of Mt Stanley, R~enzori' By R. M. Bere, 54 275Ruwenzori: Mfa Stanley and Spake. By R. M. B ,55 25Ruwenzori: Mt Gessi revisited. By P. H. Hicks, 17The exploration of the Ruwenzori. By R. M. Bere. 58 483Memorial'!of (the Alps and) the .Congo. By P. J. L. Philipps n, 54 356

2. NorthThe mountains of Morocco : the High Atlas. By J.I de Lepi ey, 40 221The High Atlas and Marrakeoh: a note. By G. P. ~aker, 4 147The Atlas mountains. By A. de Pollitzer.Pollenghi.! 45 96 ,Egyptian mountains. By G. W. Murray, 42 226! I

The wrong way up Gebel Gharib. By G. W. Murra ,49 228The top of ~pt. By G. W. Murray, 66 33The ascent of Jebel Kassala. By}t. A. Hodgkin, 155Notes on climbing in Tunisia. By L. H. Hurst, 57 45Zaghouan by Verey Light. By H. W. Tilman, 54 I 1A short holiday ill the mountains of Sinai. By J. C Hawksl y, 54 408

3. SouthMountaineering conditions in the Union of SouthThe Mountain Club of South Africa. By W. C. WMiscellaneous notes: 54 315, 55 224, 56 79, 57 420

D. G. Mills, 49 235

APENNIN SI

Six montlls in the Abruzzi Apennines. By T. A. H1 Peacoc~e, 56108. I

NORTH AM~RICA !Miscellaneous notes: 39 169, 40 195, 415, 41 237. ~32, 53 7$, 172,54 315, 317, 55 215. 56 290

1. Alukaand YukOn , !I I

The ascent ofMt Logan. By A.It. MaoCarthy, 391 I

The ascent of Mt Bona, Alaska. By A. Carpe, 43 6 jThe conquest of Mt Fairweather. By A. Carpe, 43 21Mt McKinley from the air. By W. and M. W. Crozer, 44 2,5Mt MoKinley revisited. By A. D. Lindley, 45 85, )An attempt on Mt Crillon. By H. Paumgarten, 45 !135 I

INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 to 58 81Mt Foraker, Alaska. By T. Graham Brown, 47 14, 205The ascent of Mt Steele. By W. A. Wood, 48 81 ! .

'.rhe ascent of Mt Luoania. By B. Washburn, 50 95 , 1The ascent of Mt St. Agnes, chugaoh range, Alaska. By B. rashbuT' 51 207Mt Sanford: an Alaskan ski olimb. By T. Moore, 51 222. ;New climbs in the Alaska Coast range. By F. Beckey, 56 139 iSome scientific observations, and the first ascent of Mt Van~uver, S!~.Elias range. By N. E.

Odell, 57 484 I '

2. Canada (except Yukon) >. I JClimbs in the Forbes-Lyell and other groups of the Canadi~ Recki s. By J. M. Thorington,

3952 I I > >

Climbs in the Freshfield and other groups of the Canadian R~kies. ~Y J. M. Thorington, 43 75Climbs from Maligne Lake (Northern Canadian Reclties). 1!SyM..M1 Strumia, 41 340A Ca~n pack train trip. By Miss K. Gardiner, 42 70 I tA month in the Canadian Rockies. By J,. S. Amery, 42 32 !

Retreat of the iC$in the Canadian Cordillera. By A. O. Wh~ler, 44 63The first a.scent of Mt Oubliette. By M. M. Strumia. and W. R. Rai worth, 45 341Western Canada in 1933. By A. M. Binnie, 46 81Th. N. Wing.r•••001="'" ,ro••• """""""' Ro'by M=' •••. B J. M. Th.""''' "'1IODays in the Canadian Rookies. By J. S. T. Gibson, 54 399 I '

Some C.limbSin tb.e Rocky Mountams and the Selkirks. BYlG. E. Rl Palmer, 54 152Training in the Canadian Rockies. By T. A. R. Peacocke, 532War·time climbs in Canada. By H. Westmorland, 65 65, Mystery Mountain.' By W. A. D. Munday, 40 99Mystery MOllntain (Mt Waddington), 13,260 ft. By W. A•. Mund 'Y,41 160The first ascent of Mt Waddington. By F. Wiessner, 49 49 ;Mt Robson and other climbs in the Canadian Rockies. By~. G. Cralvford, 43 258A note on the na.ming of Mt Robson. By J. M. ThOrington=,48 322 InA crossing of the Coast Range of British Columbia. By E .. BeauJin, 47 75Climbs in the Coast Range of British Columbia. By H. S. all, jr., 288An expedition to the Lloyd George Mountains of N.E. Bri ish CoI~ bia. By F. S. Smythe,

56354 I !

British Columbia, 1949. By C. A. Fenner, 57 507 .r. I

Miscellaneous notes: 40 195,414, 41 237,433,42 141, 52 ~41, 53 Itl, 54 203, 307, 5&316

3. Other districtsThe Sierra Nevada of the Upper Kern River, California. y A. E). Gunther, 41 328The Sierra Nevada of California.. By F. P. Farquhar, 48 88The Grand Teton by the E. ridge. By R. L. M. Underhill, 267Shiva Temple and Wotan's Throne, Grand Canyon, 1937. By W.. Wood, 50 257Ixtaooihuatl and Popooatapetl. By H. S. Hall, jr., 45 93

SOUTH AMERICAIn the Cordillera Blanca: the 1932 D. & OE.A.V. Expedi' ·on. B P. Borchers, 45 34Mountains and glaciers in West Patagonia. By H. N. Palli ,4562 I

l\1t Tronador. Some 1934 attempts. By E. de 10. Motte, 370A visit to the Andes of Venezuela. By A. E. Gunther, 52 7The ascent of Pico Bonpland in the Andes of Venezuela. !By A. E Gunther, 53 127Illimani and the Nazis. By E. S. G. de Ia Motte, 52 250 I

The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Colombia. By W. A~OOd' 52 243In the Argentine.Chilean Cordillera. By E. de 10. Motte, 45 328

ARCTIC AND ANTAR IeSome journeys through the mountains of Iceland. By A. urray, 4 85Climbing in Greenlo.nd, Petermann Peak. By J. M. Wordi , 42 241The British Arctic Air Route expedition. By H. G. wat~' s,44 17Mountains and glaoiers in West Greenland. By H. N. Palli ,4919The Swiss expedition to Greenland, 1938. By A. Roch, 51 05Greenlo.nd, 1950. By N. Tennent and C. G. M. Slesser, 58 92,199Within and without the Arctic Circle. By N. E. Odell, 46 .7

82The shores of Baffin Ba,y. By T. G. Longstaff and~' H. W. :aitchie, 4749An ascent of Eyrik's Jokull. By H. N. Pallin, 48 32 'The Vatnajokull. By A. de Pollitzer-Pollenghi, 48 2 7The Watltins Mountains. By J. L. Longland, 48 40On ski through Arctic Lapland to the North Cape. y c. wiatt, 50 248The Beerenberg, Jan Mayen. By R. Scott RUBsell,5 18Aspects of mountaineering in the High Arotic. By *E. ad 1,54182M;ountaineering in the Antarctio. By A. R. C. Buts , 57 19King George Island. By G. Hattersley-Smith, 58 67

AUSTRALAS A1. New GUineaNew Guinea: ascent of Carstensz Peak. By A. H. 102The Carstensz massif, 1936. By A. H. Colijn, 49 17

2. New ZealandMt Tasms.n and its satellites. Bv H. E. L. POl'tor, 9 265The Southern Alps revisited. By H. E. L. Porter, 1 303Gla.cier Peak and Mt Aspiring, N.Z. By H. E. L. P rtor,43 1Douglas Peak, N.Z. By H. E. L. Porter, 45 305Farewell to Dampier. By H. E. L. Porter, 48 280Ski-mountaineering in New Zealand. By C. W. Wy tt, 49 87Mt Cook. By a new route. By L. V. Bryant, 60 21The lesser known ranges of the Otago Alps. By J. , . Hollo ay, 54 44From Norway to New Zealand. By M. Tatham, 54 43 (A beginner in the Bush. By H. E. Newton, 54 268New Zealand notes, 1949-1950. By D. Hall, 57 538New Zealand not.os, 1950-1951. By D. Hall, 58 215Misoellaneous notes: 39 163, 342,40 195,41 234,4 136, 34 ,43 190,44 142, 45 168,46 207,

47 159, 48 188, 52 133, 63 69; 171, 54 439, 66 221, 66 293 67 99

3. TasmaniaTasmania's mountains. By M. Tatham, 51 250

BALEARIC IS ANDSMountain walks in Majorca. By O. K. Williamson, 60 239

BALKANS; NEAR AND MIDD E EASTMt Olympus. By W. T. Elmslie, 39 86Olympus. An International expedition. By W. J. " . on, 0 104Note on Mt Olympus. By W. T. Elmslie and C. M. leeman 40 101Olympus from West and South. By W. T. Elmslie nd C.:M. Sleeman, 41377Mt Olympus. By Y. G. Meade.King, 65 269Crete (1925, 1926, 1927). By G. P. Baker, 40 243The mountains of Israel. By W. T. Elmslie, 40 338The mOUll1tainsof Albania. By C. M. Sleeman, 42 5Jumrukool. By C. M. Sleeman and L. A. Ellwood,The Ala Dag. By R. A. Hodgldn, 54 235A further expedition to the Ala Dag, 1944. By E.. Peck, 6 45Mounta.ineering with the Army in the Middle East. By A.• B. Side, 67 66Notes on climbing in Cyprus. By L. H. Hurst, 67 r.5Peutedhaktilos. By J. Hunt, 61192The Alpine regions of Yugoslavia. By A. C. Niven, 58 379Mountains oftbe Near East. By J. Hunt, 58 203

I

BRITISH ISLESClimbing in Scotland. By H. MacRobert, 46 259 I· 1Ski-mountaineering in Scotland. By H. MacRobert/ 54127 IA.T.C. Training in the Cairngorms. By Lord M. Dqugla.s-H~milton, 55 395

INDEX TO VOLUMES 391to58

Skye. By P. Bielmell, 54 337The Cuillins under snow. By Lord M. Douglas-Hamilton, 58 382Deep Gash Gully, Sgurr A'mdhadaidh, Skye. By H. Niool, ~7 542Rock-olimbing in North Wales. By A. D. M. Cox, 53 115

CARPATHIANS AND TA'11RAHohe Tatra. By H. E. L. Porter, 47 310 I. I

Climbing in the Tatra Mountains. l}y T. H. Somervell, 48 ~5The Carpathians and the Tatra. By J. Bujak, 54 360 i •

A Bavarian (1928) expedition to the Cauoasus. By H. Nie~er, 41 Ij6=::~~:~~.~:·:::~:u_!U~8The Swiss Caucasus expedition, 1933. By W. Weckert, 48 60Two Caucasian journeys. By W. Heybroek and L. Saladin, 47 103The D.u.OE.A.V. in the Caucasus, 1935. By R. Schwarzg ber,48 05A second Caucasian tramp. By W. Heybrook, 48 86 J .The D.u.OE.A.V. in the Caucasus, 1936. By R. Schwarzgr ber,4919A light expedition to the Central Caucasus, 1937. By J. R. Jenkins,150 12Miscellaneous notes: 39 162,42132,346,43 399, 46 221," , 160 I

OENTRAL ASIAOn the fringe of the Pamirs. By W. R. Rl6kmers, 41 156 !

Black Forest Mountain, Pamirs. By W. R. Riokmers, 41 261The Upper Aghias, Ccntral Tien Shan. By R. Schomberg, 4s 79The ascent of Minya Konka. By T. Moore, 45 290 I

The Arch. By E. E. Shipton, 58 227Muztagh Ata. By E. E. Shipton, 58 317More news from Tartary. By H. W. Tilman, 57 184Bogdo Ola. By E. E. Shipton, 57 467

83

CORSICANote on the Viro Valley peaks, Corsioa. By G. I. Finch, 292The Punta Minuta from the North, and other Corsican asc nts. Bt W. Amstutz, 45 142

I, I

HIMALAYAS i I

~:;:rotE~:r;averest expedition. An Austrian OritiOism~' By E.l.Strutt and D. W. F.r:esh.field, 39 117 t

• The English Mt Everest expedition, 1933.' By E. L. St tt, 44 2The Mt Everest expedition, 1933. By H. Ruttledge, 45 21I..essons from the Ut Everest expedition of 1933. By T•. Longs alf, 46 102Everest, 1933. Extracts from the Everest diary of C. G. ramo , 46 111The supposed Tibetan or Nepalese name ofMt Everest. 1N. E. dell, 47 127The Mt Everest reoonnaissance, 1935. By E. E. Shipton, 8 1Mt Everest: t~e sixth expedition. By H. Ruttledge, 48 2 1Mt Everest, 1938. By H. W. Tilman, 513Oxygen on Mt Everest, 1938. By P. Lloyd, 5185Oxy-genand Mt Everest. By G. 1. Finch, 51 89 I

Mt Everest: the last lap. By E. F. Norton, 57 285 I

Short trip to the Nepal side of Everest. By H. W. Tilman;, &8 108The reconnaissance of Mt Everest, 1951. By W. H. Murraly, 58 43

2. Kamet I !

The Kamet expedition, 1931. By F. S. Smythe, 43 289. I

Short summary of the Kamet expedition, 1931. By E. B. i Beaumap, 43 306Kamet, 1937. By R. Ridley, 49239 .

306

84

3. KangchenJunga i

Kangchenjlmga, 1929. The Bavarian attempt. By . Bo,ner, '42 73The fight for Kangohenjunga, 1929. By P. Bauer, 42 185The assault on Kangchenjunga, 1930. By F. S. Smyt e, 42 2Kangchenjunga, 1931: the second Bavarian attempt. By P. aner,44 13

4. Nanda DeviThe Nande. Devi bo.sin. By E. E. Shipton, 47 58Nanda. Devi, 1936. A note. By T. Graham Brown, 311The ascent of Nanda Devi. By H. W. Tilman, 49 13Survey in the Nanda. Devi district. By E. E. Shipto ,49 27The Polish ascent of Nanda Devi, East Peak, 1939. By S.. Blake and J. Bujak, 53 31

6. Nanga ParbatThe German-American Himalayan expedition, 1932. By H. unigk,44 192The German all!la.ulton Nanga Pe.rbat (1934). By E. Schneid r, 47 92The disaster on Nanga Parbat, 1937. 49210Nanga Parbat, 1938. By F. Bechtold, 5170

6. Other districtsWa.nderings in the Kumaun Himalaya, 1925-1926. y H.Climbing the Kashmir Matterhorn. By C. R. Cooke, 39 79Kai1a.sPalrbat and two passes of the Kumaon Hima ya. BTwenty years after. By T. G. Longsta.ff, 40281Himalay~ contrasts. By C. G. Bruce, 43 1The Gang,ootriglacier and Leo Pargial, 1933. By C.Lashar Plain. By E. E. S!ripton, 46 129Trisul, 1003. By P. R. Oliver, 46 142Towards Trisu!. By C. W. F. Noyce, 64 166ChomoIhari. By F. S. Chapman, 49 203The German Sikkim expedition, 1936. By P. Bauer, 4941Lachsi and the Zemu Gap. By H. W. Tilman. 60271An expedition in the Sikkim Himalaya. By J. Hun , 50 109A winter expedition to the Zemu glacier. By J. H t, 53 1Ascent of Gordamah Peak, N. Sikkim. By E. E. S pton, 49 103Garhwa,l. 1937. By F. S. Smythe, 50 60The German Garhwa1 Himalaya expedition, 1938. y R. Sc warzgruber, 51 79Garhwal,1939: the Swiss expedition. By A. Roch, 62 34The Scottish Garhwal arid Kumaon expedition. By • H. urray, 66 49AIl!la.mHimalaya unvisited. By H. VI. Tilman, 52 5Himalayan byways. By J. O. M. Roberts, 52 233Kulu revisited. By J. O. M. Roberts, 53 323The Milam glacier and Tirsuli peaks. By S. B. Bla ,53 43Simsaga and the monsoon. By C. W. F. Noyce, 54 03An aircrew mountain centre in Kashmir. By C. W. F. Noyc ,55 74AircI'l:lwmountain centre, Kashmir. By A. J. M. S yth,58 15Bandar Punch reconnaissance. By A. R. Leyden,S 173Bandar Punch again. By R. L. Holdsworth, 56 246The ascent of BandaI' Punch. By J: T. M. Gibson, kl249Indian lea.ve. By B. R. Goodfellow, 56 373 rNotes on Nandakna (Garhwal), 1944. By B. R. Go~dfellow, 55 202An ascent of Chomiomo. By T. H. Tilly, 58 340 iThe Nepal Himalaya. By H. W. Tilma.n, 57 305 iAnnapurna. By M. Herzog, 68 155The Annapurna RimaI. By H. W. Tilman, 58 101Miscellaneous notes: 39 161, 341, 40 192, 410, 41 2 0, 66 80, 188, 292

JAPAN, FORMOS , KOR AEight days in the Ja.panese Alps. By H.I.H. the ince Ch ombu, 41 8Ontake, the Sacred Peak. By W. H. M. Walton, 234Some notes on climbing in Formosa... By W. H. M.IWalton, i 6328Some climbs in Korea. By C. H. Archer, 43 103 i

II

INDEX TO VOLUMES 391 to 58 85

KARAKORUM AND HINDU' KUSH!With the 1926 ShakBgam Survey Party. By H. D. Millchin~on, 392p9

Note on the above. By F. Youllghusband, 39 241 1 I

Shakagam expedition, 1937. By E. E. Shipton, 5034 i I

The Upper Shyok glaciers. By K. Mason, 44 237 I

The Bar and Daintar gla.ciers, 1933. By R. Schomberg, 46 31 1

The glaciers of Upper Ishkoma.n. By R. Schomberg, 46 34Some glaciers of Upper Chitral. By R. Schomberg, 47 98 •Derdi and Chapursan valleys: moUntains of N.W. Chitral. By R. I chomberg, 48 295The expedition to Peak K 36, 1935. By J. Hunt, 47 282Passes-Northern Yasin. By R. Schomberg. 47 316Istor-o·Nal: the 1935 attempt. By R. J. Lawder, 48 U8Lutkuh and Hunza. By R. Schomberg, 48 124Masherbrum, 1938. By J. Waller, 50 199The American Karakoram expedition to K 2, 1938. By C.. Houst n, 51 54A journey in the Western Karakoram. By M. Vyvyan, 51 31The Karakoram expedition, 1939. By R. Scott Russell, 521195The ascent of Mankial Tsuktti in Upper Swat. By R. L. H ldewort ,63 319The Nushik La. By R. C. F. Sohomberg and others, 56 61A reconnaissance of Saser Kangri, Eastern Karakorarns, 1 46. By J. O. M. Roberts, 56 149Rakaposhi. By H. W. Tilman, 56 329 •Prelude to the oonquest ofTirich Mir. By E. H. Cobb, 68The Norwegian expedition to Tirich Mir. By A. Naess, 68

MALAYAAn ascent of Gunong Tahan. By S. P. Mead, 54 426Travels in Japanese ocoupied Mataya. By F. S. Chapman, 736

NORWAY, LOFOTEN, SW DENThe East face of the Trolltinder. By A. Rallders-Heen, 44 ~83Mountaineering in the Jostedalsbr81en. By A. L. Wood, 471272From Norway (to New Zealand). By M. Tatham, 54 l4:J 1A view·hunter in Norway. By C. R. P. Vandeleur, 56 364)Hill-roaming in Norway. By K. C. P. Struve, 58 222The Lofoten IsIands, 1930. By G. F. Abercrombie, 43 268A month in Lofoten. By A. M. Binnie, 51 43The Kebnekaise district, Sweden. By H. L. Joseland, 41 3 5Nordsaulo. By J. C. Hawksley, 57 481

, PERSIAClimbing and ski·ing in the Elburz range, North Persia. B D. L. usk,45 334The German expedition in the Elburz range, North Persia. By D.. Busle, 49245The Bakhtiari mountains ofS.W. Persia. By N.L. Faloon 46 351Climbing in the Takht·i·SulewlIm group, N. Persia. By D. L. Busk 47299Bisitun (Iran). By H. W. Tilman, 65 275

PYRENEES AND SPASome Spanish mountains.' By W. T. Elmslie, 39 286A flight over the Pyrenees. By W. M. Conway, 40 325The Picos de Europa, 1933. By G. F. Abercrombie, 46 63The Highlands of Cantabria. By ~. R. Rickmel'S, 44 21.6

86 INDEX TO VOLu1ES 3910 58

!

307Alai-Pamirs, 41 after 451Alaska:

Chugach range, 51 208Mt ~'airweather & environs, 45 140Mt Foraker, 47 48Mt Sanford region, 51 223

Albania, Mountains of Northern, 42 58Almora, part of Northern, 63 33Alpine Maps of A. Tschudi, 46 147, 152-3Alps:

New Frontiers in, 40 293Basic and Major Branch Watersheds, 58

361America, Southern part of South, 45 63Annapurna, 58 157Apentrines, Abruzzi, &8110Arves, Aiguilles d', 40 13Assam Himalaya, 52 54Bandar Punch. aa 178Banke glacier system, 50 69Bar and Daintar. Ishkoman and other

glaciers, 46 454Beerenberg-Jan Mayen. 5120Blanc. Mont:

Brenva Face, 39 311Bogdo 010., 57 471Canada:

Maligne Lake group, 41 340Coast Range British Columbia, 47 85,

298Columbia group, N. wing, 48 291Mountains round Goldbridge, British

Columbia, 57 508Carstenz Massif. 49 312CaullasuS:

Elbrus region. S.E., 47 103Kasbek region. E., 47 108Bezingi Horseshoe, 48 113Dykshu group, 48 108Sugan group, 48 106

. Northern Adai Khokh and Tepli Massif,48 90

Jailik group, 50 17Oorsica ;

Mte Rotondo group, 40 173Orete, 40 456DolQmites, Alpago district, 55 161Egypt:

Shayib EI-Banat and Environs, 56, 35Engelborner, 41 26Everest, Mount, 68 440Formosa, N.E., 46329