In Verna Dero

Division of Agricultural Sciences

REPRINTED OCTOBER 1980

LEAFLET

2387

The author is James F. Thompson, Extension Agricultural Engineer, Davis.

The University of California Cooperative Extension in compliance with the Civil Rights Act of 1964, Title IX of the Education Amendments of 1972, and the Rehabilitation Act of 1973 does not discriminate on the basis of race, creed, religion, color, national origin, sex, or mental or physical handicap in any of its programs or activities. Inquiries regarding this policy may be directed to: Affirmative Action Officer, Cooperative Extension, 317 University Hall,

University of California, Berkeley, California 94720, (415) 642-0931.

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture, James 8. Kendrick, Jr., Director, Cooperative Extension, University of California.

4m-10/80-DCK/LAM

Many home gardeners find a small greenhouse a

relaxi:tg hobby as well as very useful. It can be

used to root cuttings andsminate seeds for the

outdoor garden, special flowers or ornamental5 can

be raised, and vegetables can be grown out of

season. A carefully chosen and attractive green-

house can provide many hours of enjoyment. How-

ever, before building one, be sure to consider:

e location

e type of construction

e heating and ventilating

e maintenance

LOCATION

A sunny location is best. Locate the house as far

from trees as practical. A southern or southeastern

exposure is best for maximum light during the

winter.

The greenhouse should be convenient to water,

fuel for heating, and electricity. The area should

be well drained.

TYPES OF GREENHOUSES

Almost everyone can find a greenhouse style to

suit his needs. There is a bewildering variety of

sizes, shapes, and styles. Greenhouses range from

window-box size to 20 or 30 feet wide and 100 or

inore feet long. The size you choose depends on

the area available, how much greenhouse garden-

ing you wish to do, and the cost.

Gothic arch, rigid frame, air supported, shed roof,

and conventional pitched roof are just a few of

the available shapes. A greenhouse that fits both

existing landscape and personal preference dic- tates the choice. Greenhouses are made with glass, fiberglass, polyethylene, or vinyl cov-

erings. Wood, steel, and aluminum are used for framing.

Glass

Glass houses are very attractive, permanent, and

expensive. These houses should be built by a

greenhouse manufacturer or purchased in a ready-

to-assemble package because they are difficult

to construct. Any gardening magazine advertises

companies selling these houses.

Fiberglass

Houses covered with fiberglass are durable, at-

tractive, and moderately priced. They are com-

mercially available or can be designed and built

by the home handyman. Only transpurent or trans-

lucent fiberglass weighing 4 to 5 ounces per

square foot should be used. Most manufacturers

sell a fiberglass made for greenhouses and it

should be guaranteed for 10 to 20 years. Except

for shading, lower grades and colored panels

should be avoided.

Film Plastic

Film-plastic-covered greenhouses are inexpensive

and temporary. They are less attractive and require

more maintenance than other styles. Clear poly-

ethylene, 4 or 6 mils (0.004 to 0.006 inch) thick,

is most commonly used because it is inexpensive

and readily available. Unfortunately polyethylene

only lasts from 3 to 8 months because it is rapidly

broken down by ultraviolet radiation from the sun.

Polyethylene treated with an ultraviolet (UV) in-

hibitor is slightly more expensive but will last 3

to 6 months longer than the regular polyethylene.

This film should be used if the greenhouse is to

be covered in the summer or fall.

Longer lasting film plastics are available, but

they have other disadvantages besides being more

expensive. If more permanence is desired, the

house can be covered with fiberglass. Polyethyl-

ene film costs 2 to 3 cents per square foot, fiber-

glass, 40 to 60 cents per square foot.

1

GREENHOUSE CONSTRUCTION HEATING

Types of Heaters

Th e greenhouse must be heated for winter use.

Mony types of heating systems are available.

Use seasoned, construction-grade lumber when

building the greenhouses described here. Redwood

or Douglas-fir is best.

Paint the framework with a white exterior paint to

improve appearance and reflect more light.

Posts and wood that touch the ground should be

treated with copper naphthenate preservative. Do

not use creosote and pentachorophenol preserva-

tives because they releasevapors harmful to plants.

Polyethylene film should be installed on calm

days. Film plastic first tears at the places where

it touches the greenhouse frame or where it is

folded. Wide,unfolded sheets of plastic are avail-

able anr! should be used. A batten strip at least

as wide as the rafter will help extend film life.

Double headed nails are often used to fasten the

plastic since they are easier to remove.

Two layers of plastic can be installed to reduce

heat loss as much as 40 percent and eliminate

condensation on the p!astic. An inside layer of

plastic 2 to 4 mils thick is spaced 1 to 4 inches

from the outside layer to create a dead airspace.

Closer or wider spacing does not create an effec-

tive dead airspace.

Although two layers are difficult to install, they

are well worth the trouble. Typically, both layers

can be installed on the outside of the framework

with a 2x2 spacer placed between the lrlyers

where they are fastened to the rafters. One sheet

is held by the 2x2 nailed just to hold it in place.

The second sheet can then be held with the batten

strip and nails driven through the 2 x2 and an inch

or more into the rafter.

In small greenhouses, the inner layer of plastic

can be fastened to the inside framework with

staples driven over a string. Simply pulling the

string removes the staples.

Home Heating Systems. If a home heater’s ca-

pacity is adequate, it can be extended to a small

nearby greenhouse. However, the heat demand is

dffforent than that of the home so a separate ther-

mostat and control system are required. A heating

contractor normallywill be needed for installation.

Space-Heaters. Either electric, gas, or oil space-

heaters nre often used to heat small greenhouses.

Heated air is circulated by a fan in the heater.

Some space-heaters have no fan and so are rather

uneven and ineffective. Depending on the size of

unit, space-heaters should not be more than 10 to

30 feet apart to produce uniform heating.

Oil or gas heaters must be vented to the outside

since the products of combustion are toxic to

plants. Electric he t a ers are easier to install and

are convenient but cost more to operate than gas

heaters.

Space-Heaters With Ducts. Recently a heating

system has been devised to distribute heat more

uniformly through the greenhouse. A space-heater

with a fan built for moving air in ducts is attached

to a clear polyethylene tube (diameter, 12” to 24”)

hung overhead. The tube has 2- to 3-inch holes

punched along it every 2 or 3 feet. Warmed air is

biown into the tube and out the small holes to pro-

vide uniform heating. When no heat is needed, the

furnace can be shut off and the fan left on to ven-

ti late the greenhouse. The fan-heater unit is lo-

cated near the end of the greenhouse so outside

airwill be drawn througha door oropening into the

fan and tube to be blown throughout the greenhouse.

Usually this equipment is not needed for small

greenhouses because space-heaters alone are

satisfactory and less expensive. Normally, green-

houses are at least 15 to 20 feet wide and 50 to

100 feet long before this equipment is used.

2

TABLE OF HEAT REQUIREMENTS FOR GREENHOUSES

I (13.t.u. ‘s of Heat Required per Hour per Square Foot of Exposed Surface) 1

55

60

65

1 70

35

18

24

30

36

42

Lowest Exoected Outside Tern oe

30 25 20

ra tu re

10 0

24 30 36 48 60

30 36 42 54 66

36 42 48 60 72

42 48 54 66 78

48 54 60 72 a4

Forced-Air Furnaces. Home forced-air furnaces wind,quality or tightness of construction, nearness

and ducts are also used to heat larger houses. to heated buildings, height of sidewalls, etc. For

Clear polyethylene tubes, such as used with the most construction, each square foot of surface space-heaters and ducts, can be attached to the loses 1.2 B.t.u.‘s of heat per hour for each degree furnace and hung overhead for distributing the

heat. Again, these furnaces must be vented. of temperature difference. The table of heat re-

quirements helps in calculating the heat load.

Amount of Heat

The amount of heat required for a greenhouse de-

pends on the size, minimum outside temperature,

minimum temperature required inside, amount of

1

An example of how the heat requirement is calcu-

lated is given in figure 1. In this case a lo- by

12-foot greenhouse needs to be heated 40 degrees

above the outside minimum temperature.

Minimum desired

inside temperature 65’ F.

Minimum outside n temperature 2!5- F. temperature 2!5- F. t t

6' 6'

I I

-I.- -I.-

= 144 sq ft = 144 sq ft

= 132 sq ft = 132 sq ft

Ends Ends 2(10x6)+ (2%x10) q 142 sqft 2(10x6)+ (2%x10) q 142 sqft

Total surface area Total surface area = 418 sq ft = 418 sq ft

From the table - 48 B.t.u.ihr/sq it heat is required or

48x 418 = 20,000 B.t.u/hr is the total heat required.

FIGURE 1. How to calculate heat requirement.

3

Gas or oil heaters are frequently rated according

to the total heat input. Some heat escapes through

in:; vent so the usable heat is only about 70 per-

cent of this total. If a gas heater were used in ,the

greenhouse shown in the example, it should have

a heat input rating of about

20,000 p = 28,600 B.t.u./hr

0.70

If two layers of plastic are used, the heat loss is

about 70 percentof the loss through a single layer

of plastic. If the house in the example is built

with a double layer of plastic, the heat require-

ment would then be 20,000 x0.70 = 14,000 B.t.u./

hr. Of course, if a gas heater were used with the

double plastic, its heat input would be

14,000

0.70 = 20,000 B.t.u./hr

Maintenance and Safety

Choose heaters having o safety switch or safety

pi lot. Be sure gas heaters are vented.

Clean dust from the burners and ducts before

starting heating in the fall.

Check the flame to be sure it is burning with a

clear blue color. A yellow flame indicates in-

complete combustion and theflame setting should

be corrected.

Be sure the thermostot is protected from rain and

is operating.

For greater heater efficiency keep the greenhouse

doors closed and patch all holes.

VENTILATION AND COOLING

Greenhouses must have air movement for cooling.

In winter, air movement is needed to reduce ex-

cess humidity, condensation, and dripping of

moisture from the roof. Either greenhouse vents

or fons can be used.

Vents. A continuous vent at the top or ridge of

the greenhouse, combined with vents on the sides,

gives the most effective naturol ventilation. For

smal I greenhouses, a 1- to 2-foot wide vent i s

adequate. In larger greenhouses, a ridge vent

I,, the width of the house should be used. For

example, if a house is 24 feet wide, at least a

3-foot-wide (‘,x 24) ridge vent should be used.

Side vents are often not used in houses less than

15 feet long, since an open door or o few holes

at each end allows enough air to enter on hot

days. For very small houses, like those on plans

5941 and 5946, smaller ridge vents, open doors,

or end vents provide enough ventilation.

Ridge vents should be opened slightly in cold

weather to allow some moisture-laden air to

escape. With noventilation, humidity in the green-

house becomes too high and condensation, drip,

and dicey?e become severe problems.

Circulating Fans. Sometimes small fans are used

to circulate air within the greenhouse to try to

eliminote stagnant air pockets. Thesefans should

only be used to correct a poorly designed heating

and ventilating system. In small greenhouses end

in greenhouses with good heating and ventilation

systems, they are not of much use.

Cooling Fans. More positive air control is needed

if the greenhouse is used in the summer. Fans

will ventilate even on a calm, hot, summer day.

Also, fans are easier to control automatically than

vents. However, fans are more expensive and not

normally used except in large houses. The fan

exhausts the air from the house, and during warm

weather it should change the air once every

minute.

Cooling Pads. In large houses, a wetted aspen-

fiber pad can be placed at one end and fans at the

other to provide additional cooling. As the air is

drawn through the wet pad it is cooled by evapo-

ration-as much as 30 degrees on hot days. If

additional cooling is needed in small greenhouses,

a package evaporative cooler is more satisfactory.

The cooler can be mounted to blow cool air into

the house at one end and the door opened on the

opposite end to exhaust the air. Coolers should

change the air once per minute. The volume of

of the house shown in the heating example is 855

cubic feet -the amount of air a cooler for this

house would need to deliver per minute.

4

Shading. Shades, of course, besides reducing

light, reduce the heat load in greenhouses. Shad-

ing compounds that are sprayed or painted on the

greenhouse and aluminum, fibergiass, plastic, or

wooden screens and panels are avai lable. Partial

shading does not normally reduce summer light

enough to reduce growth, but it is a good way to

reduce the heat load.

Humidification. During hot days the humidity in

a greenhouse can become so low that plants are

severely dehydrated and even ruined. Moreover,

some tropical foticge plants and orchids grow

best in high humidities. The least expensive way

to increase humidity is to freque+!i water the

gravel under benches and in lhrclkways. Water

nozzles that periodically s #ray a fine mist are

also very effective humidif’ers. The nozzles can

be automatedwith a tirnmrr3ck and electric valve.

A time cycle of 1 minute on and 5 to 10 minutes

off is common. Commercial greenhouse humidifier

units can also be used.

Automation

Watering, heating, cooling, fertilizing and humid-

ifying can all be done au’~maticaIly. Only the

budget limits how many chores are automated.

Some people prefer to control all of these opera-

tions themselves, considering this part of the en-

joyment of the greenhouse. However, some iobs

are better handled by automatic controls. Heaters

should be controlled by a thermostat. Vents or

fans can also be thermostatically controlled, but

this is not as necessary. Other automotion is

nice to have but the heating and ventilation sys-

tem should be automated first.

I 2” I 7’ - 0” RIDGE7 STEEL CORNER STRAP 7

UNDERSIDE OF R -- ------

EL CORNER STRAq BATTEN STRI

m FOLD PLASTIC OVER AND STEN TO INNER SIDE o RNER STUDS AN0 RAFT

BATTEN STRIPS

ARCH FRAME

I”x.B’BASE FRAME -

2”~;‘” STUDS NOTCHED 3/4” BASE FRAME

iiSCREW HOOKS / i

ENQ VIEW CUT AWAY

?“r 2’ RAFTER

CONDUIT STRAPS ON BASE AND RIDGE. FASTEN WITH 5/g SHEET METAL SCREWS

It.. BASE FRAME --’

/ TOP VIEW

CUTAWAY TO SHOW CONSTRUCTION

PERSPECTIVE VIEW FRAMING ONLY

n,,F TO POSSIBLE VARIATIONS --- .- _----- IN ANGLES WHEN THE CONDUIT IS BENT FOR ARCH FRAMES. CHECK THE HEIGHTS SHOWN USING AN ARCH FRAME as A TEMPLATE.

ALL WOOD SHOULD BE TREATED WITH PRESERVATIVE AFTER CUTTING AND BEFORE ASSEMBLY.

METAL PARTS AND FASTENINGS TO BE GALVANIZED OR OTHERWISE RESISTANT TO CORROSION.

METAL PARTS TO BE FASTENED WITH SCREWS.

WOOD PARTS MAY BE FASTENED WITH SCREWS OR WITH NAILS. CLINCHED WHERE POSSIBLE.

PLASTIC MAY BE FASTENED THRU THE BATTEN STRIPS WITH NAILS. SCREWS OR STAPLES.

MATERIAL LIST _ -ITEM _____ QUANTITY BASE FRAME--- _ -4 PtS COLLARS-------I RIDGE- _---- - -I n RAFTERS ___ - - -4 : STUDS (CENTER)- _ -2

(OTHER)-- - -4 CO;ER BATTENS _ - -4

” u

ARCH FRAMES- - _ -3 ” CONDUIT STRAPS - _ -15 ” CORNER STRAPS- _ -ID ” PLASTIC (ENDS) - -- 2 u

. ICOVERSI- - - 2 II

SIDE AND TOP COVER SUPPORTS ARE 2x 4 INCH WELDED WIRE MESH, HOOKED TOGETHER IN PAIRS AND HINGED LOOSELY TO THE RIDGE WITH STRONG CORD.

.--.- -_ COVER SUPPORTS- - - 2 q

” ---2 II

RATTEN ST”RlPS - _ - _- -- --62’-0” ” -_.. _.. _ ____ _ SCREW ,,OOKS- _. _ - 8 _ _ ,_ - - - - - -_ .- - FASTENINGS- - _ _ - - SEE NOTES - - -*- ; -- SOIL HEATING CABLE-- I - -36OW.--120’-0

l- +I ‘& II 4 MIL CLEAR PLASTIC FILM

-- j

‘8 GA W.W. MESH

I” WIRE: STOP -

2” 1. 6” BASE FRAME

HAROWARE CLOTH

HEATING CABLES

SIDE VIEW END VIEW CUT AWAY

ALL WOOD SHOULD BE TREATED WITH PRESERVATIVE AFTER SECTION CUTTING AND BEFORE ASSEMBLY.

NOTE: SEPARATION OF HEATING CABLES IS VARIABLE TO AMOUNT OF HEAT NEEDED PER SO. FT. ACCORDING TO GEOGRAPHIC LOCATION. REFER T9 LEAFLET NO. 445 USDA.

METAL PARTS AND FASTENINGS TO BE GALVANIZED OR OTHERWISE RESISTANT TO CORROSION.

WOOD PARTS MAY BE FASTENED WITH SCREWS OR WITH NAILS.

PLASTIC MAY BE FASTENED BY CLOTHES PINS OR BY PLASTIC

-----j “r:.,. STOP

/

II / Ii-- 2”~ 8” BASE FRAME

8 GA. WELDED WIRE MESH

CABLES

TOP VIEW CUT AWAY

z El 2 PCS. I PC.

3 PCS. 2 PCS.

I PC.

2 PCS. 4 IN. I PC.

PERSPECTIVE VIE’Q - NOT TO SCALE

MATERIAL LIST 2% a”- 5’ LONG FOR SIDES 2”~ 8”- 3’ - 6” LONG FOR ENDS l”i I” WIRE STOP- 5’-2”LONG FOR SIDES NO.6 GAUGE 6’x6” WELDED WIRE, 5’ LONG 4’- 6” WIDE FOR TOP OF WOOD FRAME TO SUPPORT PLASTIC FILM. PLASTlC WEBBING 2” WIDE - 5’ LONG PLASTIC FILM, 4 MIL. CLEAR 3’WlOE 7’ LONG. 360-WATT SOIL HEATING CABLE. THERMO- STATICALLY CONTROLLED TO SHUT OFF AT 70°F. WHITE PLASTIC FILM, 4 MIL, 5’x6’ FOR COVERING FRAME DURING WINTER. CHEESECLOTH, 3’~ 7’ SAND - 2”ABOVE. 2” BELOW HEATING CABLE L/2” HARDWARE CLOTH, 5’~ 3 l/2’

DESIGNED IN COOPERATION WITH : CROPS RESEARCH DIVISION

COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMIC

aHD “LllTEO5TITE5DEPlkTLIENTOF~GRIC”LT”RLCOOCfI.TII

MINI-HOTEE’O AND PROPAGATING FRAME

USDA. ‘69 6060 SHEET I OF

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N3dO lN3A

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1 J ANCHOR RODS

L ?:a' I- 5:0-

RIGHT END 4

LEFT END FRONT

PANEL FRAMING DETAILS

ALL FRAYING MEMBERS ARE f.2: TREATED WITH PRESERVATIVE AFTER CUTTING.

CHECK ALL DIMENSIONS ON THE JOB.

ANCHOR TO GROUND WITH hm~~5m~~~~~ RODS WITH TOP 2=BENT 905

5 PAIR 3-x 3’ LOOSE-PIN BUTT HINGES ARE REOb.

VENT COVER A--r r TOP PLATE BEVELED

1 q -5+J-

ag FASTENING DETAIL

r--II ;T

5 n -;

+ I

L- VENT . (L1 OPENING -I DI 7

1 l

.

--------_

1-

lECTlON A-A 7 : a-

REAR

COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN

AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS

LA4 TOP

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CORRUGATED 284 FRAMES

,A ,PLAT

PANELS

12’- 0.

II w” 4’- 0 w” RIDGE ROLL

CORRUGATED FIBERGLASS PANELS

‘14x4 PURLINS (3) EACH SIDE

CORRUGATED FIBERGLASS PANELS

BENCH SUPPORTS SEE DETAIL “A”

3” GRAVEL FILL

1x12 REDWOOD BOARD :

NOTE *I %14x6” CLEATS CENTERED IN 4’-OR BAYS B NAILED TO UNOERSIOE OF EAVE PURLINS FOR THE PURPOSE OF SECURING TOP EF)GE OF SIDE FIBERGLASS ALTERNATE:

FLAT FIBERGLASS PANELS AT ENDS

‘I’ l&L1 ISOMETRIC VIEW

I I vi’ 4 ‘- 0 V.”

DOOR ONE END DOOR ONE END

1 I IO-O” I I - L$-.- -.~~ - ~~ *~p..p-..-q COPPER NAPHTHENATE

CROSS SECTION

-&----&yf~;--~ ,‘%/e”PLYWOOO GUSSETS

‘0 _I N 4’-0” CENTERS GRAVEL

FRAMING MEASUREMENTS

BLOCKS UN0 SUPPORTS

PLAN BASED ON: UNIV. OF ILL. CIR. 880 8 RUTGERS PLAN NO. I58

4- DETAIL “A”

FILL



HOME GREENHOUSE

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a3lW1301 3&I S H31HM 30 ,6?2 (6) Sl3NWd aN3 3SIMHlSN31 1113 133HS HI S 3015 H3W3 S133HS 2 ‘,Zl~Z IS) Sl3NWd 3015

dlVH NI ln3 ,Olr,Z 19) Sl3NWd jOOh! :SNllWO3 ZO S

.(.d.M'dl Sl3NWd 033~0dNl3U SSWlt)M3Elj a3lWSIlMtlO3 slvltl31wIyy JO 1118

WVtlSVl~ 9Nllln3 133HS QOOMAld

aOOMAld 3-3 3dAl 1X3 ,,*/I

9 GAL TIES,

VANIZED TWISTED

-7 NO ,I’ WIRE ONE COLLAR

TIE, OVER (THIN-WALL

FRAMING ELEVATIONS

FRAMING PLAN

5 MIL TYPE W-POLYESTER FILM CEMENTED TO OUTSIDE OF PANEL

ROOF PANELS SLIOE DOWN FOR REMOVAL

OR VENTILATION AT RIDGE

IN-WALL CONDUIT IO FLATTEN 6” EACH EN

‘%’ CARRIAGE BOLT WITH WASHER

“5ht2” LAG SCREW

$

a,

3’

2x4 POSTS

IX4 SASH STr ,1X3 AT CORNERS) x!! a+ Y

L 2X12x16’-9 t/z”

‘/e’h Va’k46 WI’.” NONCORROSIVE METAL BRACES. FASTEN WITH

I“ NO 6 NONCORROSIVE WOOD SCRErYS

3 MIL FILM CEMENTED

TO INSIDE OF PANEL

DOUBLE-GLAZED WALL PANEL WITH LOOSE-PIN HINGES

TWO 3” NO. ID SCREWS

SECTION A-A NOT TO SCALE

..-4:-o” J ROOF SASH PANEL

CROSS SECTION

_ RIDGE CAP MEMBERS ARE CUT USE LONGER BOLT AND TWO F”“” ’ TO ANCHOR ENDS OF WIRE TI FROM 1x4 COVER WITH AN

’ WIDE STRIP OF SHEET METAL

4’-2” C C.3. RooF PANEL (RAFTER NOT

2X4x16’-9 l/z” PLATE

CAP

SHOWN)

6” GUTTER SPIKE

1~4x16’

vdk I l/e’ AT EAC.. . v-1

‘kl2’ F.B. ‘Y Drl‘2-r

IX4 STOP

3/1&l~/2’il2” F.6. WITH ah” DIA. CARRIAGE BOLT 8 %‘kz” LAG

SCREW TO EACH RAFTER

2X3 RAFTER END RAFTER / END WALL RIDGE DETAIL

PANEL


AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMIC5

I , lr EAVE CONNECTIONS

‘IX1 PANEL SUPPORTS WITH ‘14” BEVEL FOR GUTTER 4 RAFTER DETAILS NOTE:

CONSULT LOCAL HEALTH AND

PLASTIC GREENHOUSE

JSDA ‘76 1 6251 1 SHEET I OF 2 BUILDING CODE AUTHORITIEG BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION.

F SIDE

Vdi l’/z” METAL STRAP. FLUSH WITH WOOD.

GABLE SASH

I TWO REQ’D

o/ ~-GRADE LINE

DOOR DETAIL “C”

DOWN AT EACH END

1x1 STRIP TO RETAIN END WALL PANEL ONLY

WALL SASH PANEL

1x1 STRIP, FULL

EIGHT REO’D

NOTES: THE ROOF PANELS ARE HELD IN CLOSED OR PARTLY OPEN POSITIONS BY 6d DOUBLE-HEADED NAILS IN HOLES DRILLED THROUGH LOWER END OF bIM;\R CAP INTO PANEL

INSTALL RESILIENT WEATHER STRIPPING TO CLOSE THE SPACE BETWEEN THE PLATES AND ROOF PANELS. ALL WOOD PARTS TO BE TREATED, AFTER CUTTING, WlTli A COPPER-NAPTHENATE PRESERVATIVE. ALL METAL PARTS

* SHOULD BE OF NON- CORROSIVE METAL OR “,“,E;t!P GALVANIZED

2~4~13~3~ FILLER, WITH ’ r 4 I 3’- IO” TIE lfetl’A” METAL STRAP, FLUSH

WITH WOOD, EACH SIDE

2x2. BEVELED

~--214rlO’O~

--22r2

-

la3 SASH STOP FOR SIDE WALL PANEL

2x4113’-3” DOOR STOP

DOOR PANEL TWO REP’0

APPLY FILM TO INSIDE FIRST OUTER FILM SHALL EXTEND OVER TOP RAIL AN0 LAP

THE TOP EDGE OF THE INNER FILM

END WALL SASH PANEL FOUR REQ’D. TWO

RIGHT 8 TWO LEFT

i 1 2x12 rl2’-0’ NOTCHEI

1 I 31h’!t3’5” FOR DOOR

I I BEVEL TOP EDGE FO LJ DRAINAGE I

END WALL FRAMING

B’GALYANIIED T-HINGE WITH BRASS PIN PIN SHOULD GE REMOVABLE. INSET SO LEAVES ARE

FLUSH WITH THE SURFACE OF WOO0 MEMBERS FOR EASE IN APPLYING OR REPLACING THE PLASTIC FILM

~le'iIVz'i8" GALV STEEL

COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMIC

DOOR DETAIL “Et’ SILL DETAIL “A” 6- 5 4 , *” 0 12” 9” 6,‘ 1” 0

PLASTIC GREENHOUSE

USDA * 76 1 6251 1 SHEET 2 OF

7 NO 9 GALVANIZED /- WIRE TIES, TWISTED

DOUBLE-GLAZED WALL PANEL WITH

WITH WASHER %,

??I

2x4 POSTS s-y g-i

lx4 SASH STC ,1x3 AT CORNERS1 %w

d+ I

2xl2rl6’9 I/z”

ROOF PANELS SLIDE =+ DOWN FOR REMOVAL -A


\

LONG. FLATTEN 6”EACH END

-i

A

t- --

(THIN-WALL

FRAMING PLAN


m’k 2” FRAME \

I ‘/s’k %‘k46vi” NONCORROSIVE 3 MIL FILM

METAL BRACES. FASTEN WITH CEMENTED I” NO. 6 NONCORROSIVE TO INSIDE OF

WOOD SCREJYS PANEL

TWO 3” NO. IO SCREWS

USE LONGER BOLT AND TW TO ANCHOR ENDS OF WIRE

4’-2” I. 2. ---+ - - --

* ‘- .-I” I

ROOF SASH PANEL

IO” 6” 0 1’ 2’ SECTION A-A

NOT TO SCALE lx4rl6’9~/z” RIDGE

CAP

~hk~v$kW F.B. WITH a/s” DIA. CARRIAGE BOLT 8 vm’k 2” LAG

SCREW TO EACH RAFTER COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN

I I /I I AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS ..-...---.-..- ..- -.--- ---- . ..-..- ---..- . ..__ _..^ MALL HlIJtit DETAIL ,e, I

“NI,EDSTIIL*DEP*II,Y~~*~~~~~,~“~~””~=~,~~.,~~~

,,RlOGE CAP MEMBERS ARE CUT FROM 1x4. COVER WITH AN

8’ WIDE STRIP OF SHEET METAL

ROOF PANEL (RAFTER NOT SHOWN)

‘h”

2” F.E POST

EAVE CONNECTIONS RAFTER DETAILS NOTE:

BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION.

5’-3”

LEG

4’_ay 4

/ I van 2 VI2

-‘I--- A- RAFTER

FRAME CUTTING LAYOUT (CUT FROM (8) 2x4~10’)

f

=0 -0 P

i

&-i-J” I- / A A A A

A A A A

A

b-

;j \ A A A

_ A A A A

T ‘ I 7 1- 1, B k-b L

/ \, B __. ,’

B “1 y ., 0

,‘-< ,/ +--yy

, ‘/4” EXT TYPE C-C PLYWOOD

__-. -__--.- --

PLYWOOD SHEET CUTTING DIAGRAM

I2 6’ 0 I

I6 Vs”

BILL OF MATERIALS 4” CORRUGATED FIBERGLASS REINFORCED PANELS (FR PI l

5 OZ COATING: ROOF PANELS (61 2ilO’ CUT IN HALF SIDE PANELS (5) 2kl2: 2 SHEETS EACH SIDE

5 TH SHEET CUT LENGTHWISE END PANELS (91 zke’ OF WHICH 5 ARE LOCATED

AT END WITH NO DOOR RIDGE ROLL (I I 12’ LENGTH LUMBER (8) 2r4rlO’ TO MAKE FRAMES (2) 2x4~10’ SILL AT ENDS (PT COPPER NAPHTHENATE) (21 2x4~12’ SILL AT SIDES (PT COPPER NAPHTHENATE) (21 2~4x16’ END FRAMING

BENCH SUPPORTS NOT INCLUDED (8) 5/.r4xl2’ FOR PURLINS 8 DOOR (2) 4~4x16’ PT POST FOR FOOTINGS (21 1x12112’ 6 (21 lxl2rlO’ REDWOOD BOARDS I I) 4’rB’r 14” EXTERIOR TYPE CC PLYWOOD SHEET FOR

PLYWOOD GUSSETS SEE CUTTING DIAGRAM c CHECK WITH FIBERGLASS SUPPLIER FOR NECESSARY

RELATED HARDWARE .S COVERING INSTRUCTIONS NAILS. HINGES B LATCH

SIDE GUSSETS I6 REP’D

HEAD GUSSETS 8 REQ’D

BLOWER A-i END WALL FOR INFLATION OF PLASTIC LAYERS. SEE SECT. A-A DOUBLE LAYER 6 MILL PLASTIC

FLATED, IN ASS PANELS. OF PLASTIC WILL TIMES. ONCE 4 YEARS.)

i i i r I I 4 I

ALTERNATE CROSS SECTION

HOLE IN PLYWOOD SAME SIZE AS BLOWER OP’G

CIRCULAR SHEET METAL PLATE TO ADJUST OPENING INTO BLOWER. ---4

PLYWOOD SHEET SECURED TO /-,/ FRAME FOR MOUNTING OF BLOWER

AIR PASSAGE ADAPTER (PLASTIC POT WITH HOLE

IN BOTTOM IS SUITABLE) I! w PLASTIC TUBING TAPED TO BLOWER HOUSING B ADAPTER

BLOWER SECURED TO PLYWOOD TO DRAW IN OUTSIDE AIR

ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROL HEATING:

TO MAINTAIN A TEMPERATURE DIFFERENCE OF 60° BETWEEN INSIDE a OUTSIDE

30,000 BTUlHR SINGLE COVERING 20,000 BTU/HR DOUBLE COVERING

CONNECTION TO HOME HEATING SYSTEM IS MOST DESIRABLE. IF NOT POSSIBLE, USE GAS OR OIL HEATER VENTED TO THE OUTSIDE. ELECTRIC HEATERS ARE EASY TO INSTALL, CLEAN, BUT EXPENSIVE TO OPERATE WHEN USING OIL OR GAS, BE SURE TO PROVIDE A FRESH AIR SUPPLY DIRECTLY TO THE HEATER TO SUPPLY OXYGEN FOR COMBUSTION.

VENTILATING: REOUIRE A TWO SPEED FAN RATED AT 1000 CFM. AN AUTOMATIC AIR INLET OF 2 SO. FT. IS REOUIRED. THE FAN CAN BE M9UNTED IN ONE GABLE EN0 AND AIR INLET IN THE OTHER. BOTH SHOULD BE CONTROLLED BY A THERMOSTAT

FOR MORE INFORMATION S(E USDA BULLETIN NUMBER 357 “BUIILDING HOBBY GREENHOUSES.”

SECTION A-A



II vn/e’i 4’- 0 ve”

_ CORRUGATED FIBERGLASS PANELS

CORRUGATED CORRUGATED

BENCH B EENCtl SUPPORTS BENCH B EENCtl SUPPORTS ,./NOT SHOWN IN THIS VIEW ,./NOT SHOWN IN THIS VIEW

2x4 SILL P.T 2x4 SILL P.T

NOTE -I %x4x6” CLEATS CENTERED IN 4’-0” BAYS a NAILED TO 1.l UNDERSIDE OF EAVE PURLINS FOR THE PURPOSE OF SECURING TOP EDGE OF SIDE FIBERGLASS PANELS.

\ ALTERNATE: ALTERNATE:

FLAT FIBERGLASS FLAT FIBERGLASS PANELS AT ENDS PANELS AT ENDS

5hr4 PURLINS (3) EACH SIDE

CORRUGATED

‘/” /’ FIBERGLASS PANELS

_ BENe:H SUPPORTS SEE DETAIL “A”

3” GRAVEL FILL

xl2 REDWOOD BOARD

GRADE

I I 4x4x4-0” POST AT I I

--loI CORNERS AND CENTERS PRESSURE-TREATED WITH

L’ COPPER NAPMTHENATE

CROSS SECTION

;I; ISOMETRIC VIEW

NAILS SIDE

BRICK 0 BLOCKS UNDER

SUPPORTS w- DETAIL “A”

EAVE .(l2) 4d NAILS

EACH SIDE

FRAMING MEASUREMENTS

=0 _I 0

=w _! N

=m -ii

-

DOOR ONE END

lr--------‘-- Y -------~-- -----

‘1 Ir’ I

,I I/ II

I ,

II II II 1 , ,I I

1~

I II II /I ji

,I

L

8’ I’

‘I --__ ---. il 1 I

PLAN



HOME GREENHOUSE N.l ‘74 1 6161 1 SHEET I OF 2, BASED ON: UNIV. OF ILL. CIR. 860

8 RUTGERS PLAN NO. 156

L

7 NO 9 GALVANIZED /- WIRE TIES, TWISTED

DOUBLE-GLAZED WALL PANEL WITH

WITH WASHER %,

??I

2x4 POSTS s-y g-i

lx4 SASH STC ,1x3 AT CORNERS1 %w

d+ I

1 ; l2’- 0”

---...__-------- ---- ~-- --.-.. .~~ -

I I

ROOF PANELS SLIDE =+ DOWN FOR REMOVAL -A


\

LONG. FLATTEN 6”EACH END

I I I 1 Ld LJ - -. CROSS SECTION

-i

A

t- --

(THIN-WALL

FRAMING PLAN


m’k 2” FRAME \

I ‘/s’k %‘k46vi” NONCORROSIVE 3 MIL FILM

METAL BRACES. FASTEN WITH CEMENTED I” NO. 6 NONCORROSIVE TO INSIDE OF

WOOD SCREWS PANEL

TWO 3” NO. IO SCREWS

USE LONGER BOLT AND TW TO ANCHOR ENDS OF WIRE

4’-2” L 2. ---+ - - --

* ‘- .-I” I

ROOF SASH PANEL

IO” 6” 0 1’ 2’ SECTION A-A

NOT TO SCALE lx4rl6’9~/z” RIDGE

CAP

~hk’v$kW F.B. WITH a/s” DIA. CARRIAGE BOLT 8 vm’k 2” LAG

SCREW TO EACH RAFTER COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN

I I /I I AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS ..-...---.-..- ..- -.--- ---- . ..-..- ---..- . ..__ _..^ MALL HlIJtit DETAIL ,e, I

“NI,EDSTIIL*DEP*II,Y~~*~~~~~,~“~~””~=~,~~.,~~~

/RIDGE CAP MEMBERS ARE CUT FROM 1x4. COVER WITH AN

8’ WIDE STRIP OF SHEET METAL

ROOF PANEL (RAFTER NOT SHOWN)

‘h”

2” F.B POST

EAVE CONNECTIONS RAFTER DETAILS NOTE:

BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION.

In Verna Dero

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