Infl uential designers A COOL HUNDRED - Footwear News ... · Scoring retail’s back-to-school...
Transcript of Infl uential designers A COOL HUNDRED - Footwear News ... · Scoring retail’s back-to-school...
F O OT W E A R N E W S .C O M / J U LY 2 5 , 2 0 1 6 / @ F O OT W E A R N E W S
At the century mark, Keds has successfully playedto women’s strong sides. Now, the iconic brand is banking on Ciara to reacha new audience.
MOMS & PROPSWhy styling Mila Kunis & Kristen Bell for new movie comedy wasn’t so “Bad”
COMFORT ZONESMaurice Breton shares top tips for building corporate culture
HOT LINESInfl uential designersopen their springsketch pads for exclusive fi rst looks
MARKING PERIODScoring retail’s back-to-school season
AND MORE ...
A COOLHUNDRED
PRE–SHOW ISSUE
INSIDER
13 Tough Tests Will the back-to-school
season boost sluggish retail sales?
17 FN Spy Styling secrets from the
set of “Bad Moms.”
18 Pliner’s Next Play The storied
designer returns with two new lines.
KEDS @ 100
20 Taking the Lead Wolverine execs
reveal their plans for Keds’ future.
24 Leading Ladies Three women are
working to shape the female-centric brand.
26 Ciara’s Hits The pop star gets candid
about music, fame and joining the Keds
Collective.
28 Power Partners Nine of the
company’s most successful collaborations.
30 Female Forces History helps steer
the label’s marketing message.
32 Screen Time Major brand cameos
in movies and on television.
FEATURES
34 Drawing Attention Designers
preview their spring ’17 collections.
THE LIST
41 Shoe of the Week Oscar de la Renta
heads to the tropics for resort.
42 Good Taste Marion Parke talks luxe
comfort and her childhood crush.
44 Brogues in Vogue How Church’s
is reinvigorating Cheaney.
45 Closet Case Investigating stylist
Brad Goreski’s personal shoe habit.
46 Good Taste Parenting guru Rosie Pope
on launching her kids’ shoe line.
48 Leader Board Maurice Breton’s
secrets of successful leadership.
FN PICK
50 Foot Notes Melania Trump dons
Louboutin for her headline-making speech.
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34A spring ’17 sketch from designer Alessandra Lanvin for Aperlaï
ON THE COVER
Photographed by SUNNY SHOKRAE
PHOTO CORRECTION
In FN’s July 18 issue, the photos of Jenny Simpson
on pages 15-16 should have been credited to Molly
Seeling of Cedar House Photography.
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Michael Atmore Editorial Director
Neil Weilheimer Managing EditorKatie Abel Global News DirectorElizabeth Slott Design Director
Mosha Lundström Halbert Fashion DirectorJennie Bell Features Editor
Anna-Lisa Yabsley Online Managing EditorBarbara Schneider-Levy Senior Editor, Men’s & Comfort
Sumana Ghosh-Witherspoon Senior DesignerKristen Henning Women’s Editor
Chris M. Junior Copy EditorPeter Verry Athletic & Outdoor Editor
Sheena Butler-Young Senior Associate Editor, BusinessCharlie Carballo West Coast Digital Editor
Margaret Sutherlin Associate Editor Christian Allaire Associate Fashion Editor, High-End Men’s
Rachael Allen Associate Web ProducerNikara Johns Editorial Assistant
Erin E. Clack Contributing Editor, Children’sZameena Mejia Editorial Intern
CORRESPONDENTS
Samantha Conti, Natalie Theodosi London Miles Socha Paris
Luisa Zargani Milan Amanda Kaiser Hong Kong
PHOTOGRAPHY/VIDEO Ash Barhamand Photo Director
Oona Wally Bookings & Production Editor Emily Taylor Photo Studio Coordinator
George Chinsee, Thomas Iannaccone PhotographersLeah Jubara Video Producer & Editor
ADVERTISINGSandi Mines Vice President & Publisher
Lauren Schor Associate PublisherMichelle Raskin West Coast DirectorMichele Loffman Account Director
Gina Stillman Senior Account ManagerGiulia Squeri European Account Director
Gomatie Sanichar Office ManagerEmanuela Altimani Senior Sales Coordinator
Elizabeth Carcich Sales Coordinator
DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICESStephanie Siegel Director of Integrated Marketing
Cass Spencer Creative Director, MarketingSuzette Minetti Digital Sales Planner
AUDIENCE MARKETING
Ellen Dealy Vice President & Senior Executive DirectorPeggy Pyle Consumer Marketing Director
Janet Menaker Senior Director, Digital Marketing & Strategic Development
Randi Segal Senior Director, Institutional SalesSuzanne Berardi Senior Online Manager Tamra Febesh Senior Marketing Manager
Lauren Busch Associate Marketing Manager
PRODUCTIONKevin Hurley Production DirectorJohn Cross Production Manager
PREPRESS PRODUCTION
Alex Sharfman Digital Imaging David Lee Chin Prepress Assembly
SUMMITS & EVENTS
Amber Mundinger Vice President, New Ventures & GMMary Ann Bacher Executive Editorial DirectorAmelia Ewert Director, Experiential Marketing
Kim Mancuso Director, Attendee SalesAlexis Coyle Director, Sponsorship
FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC
Michael Atmore Editorial Director of FN & Director of Brand Development
Ron Wilson Director, European Operations
FAIRCHILD MEDIA AND FN ARE OWNED AND PUBLISHED BY PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION
I N S I D E R
Retailers are pulling out all the stops for this back-to-school season. But will consumers respond to their homework? By Sheena Butler-Young
Tough Tests
13ILLUSTRATION BY JESSIE FORD
fter multiple quarters of sluggish sales, retailers have shifted their focus and efforts to the second-biggest spending event of the year: back-to-school.
But much like the backpacks students will haul around in September, the outlook points to a mixed bag for retailers.
Issues such as unpredictable weather and an uncertain economy continue to plague footwear and apparel firms, while a lack of trends is also making some industry watchers anxious.
“With a limited scope of categories that are resonating strongly, both apparel and footwear remain challenged,” explained B. Riley & Co. LLC Inc. analyst Jeff Van Sinderen. “We also are in the middle of a not-so-great fashion cycle for apparel outside of active and athleisure, [although] footwear is relatively healthier with more favorable micro-trends to drive it.”
Van Sinderen said the retail space would benefit from new trend drivers, but “I’m not totally convinced that is in the cards for back-to-school 2016.”
Nevertheless, footwear sellers continue to forge ahead — relying on strength in athletic as well as canvas styles and ramping up their digital efforts to address consumer shifts.
Many of last year’s top athletic brands — including Nike Inc., Skechers USA Inc. and Converse — are expected to produce robust sales. Meanwhile, Adidas, boosted by its high-profile collabora-tions and several key product launches, and Puma, jolted by partnerships with buzz queens Rihanna and Kylie Jenner, are predicted to make a major splash this time around.
Jason Short, VP and DMM for men’s and women’s athletic shoes at Famous Footwear, said he expects the usual top-notch performance from Nike and Converse but is also adding Adidas to his list due to accelerating momentum.
“Adidas is the new [standout] brand this back-to-school season,” Short said. “They’re trending strongly in the market place com-pared to a year ago this time.”
Van Sinderen has also made a similar observation regarding heightened interest in the Germany-based athletic brand. “Adidas has made a substantial comeback, and I think that will translate
into solid year-over-year gains for them during back-to-school this year,” he said.
Fashion athletic styles — once again led by Steve Madden — are also expected to outper-form. CL King & Associates analyst Steve Marotta dubbed Steve Madden his top back-to-school brand, while Van Sinderen noted that Madden’s e-commerce partnership with Amazon will be a further boon to business.
Jill Oralevich, DMM at Lester’s in New York, said she’s also stocking up on fashion athletic picks from Madden as well as Puma and Adidas this season. “Puma is new to the list in terms of the fashion and athletic sneaker trend,” Oralevich said. “Fashion sneakers continue to drive the footwear business — that whole [Adidas] Stan Smith, tennis-inspired lace-up sneaker trend is big.”
Rack Room Shoes senior marketing director Jan Mauldin said the Charlotte, N.C.-based chain of stores is also relying heavily on athletic trends this time around, focusing much of its back-to-school efforts on a newly launched athletic shop concept.
Mauldin said the retailer would pump up its digital advertising and rely on customer data to drive sales: “Social media will include
promotion of the athletic brands plus contests and games to increase and enhance engagement.”
This back-to-school season will see many retailers accelerate their e-commerce social media efforts.
“We’re going to have strong Instagram cam-paigns,” noted Lester’s exec Oralevich, “[including]
weekly posts with the most prevalent trend as well as posts about what we feel are our stron-
ger, most compelling products.” Similarly, Shawn Manning, owner
of Fontana’s Shoes in Ithaca, N.Y., said he’ll use Facebook to get consumers’ attention. “We’ll have sponsored posts for specific brands with photos of new styles,” he said. “We will also use [an email marketing service] to send out e-blasts [for products and promotions].”
To augment its e-commerce and social media strategy, Rack Room will also roll out a new member-focused rewards app supported by several “app-only” deals to drive interest.
While athletic remains a red-hot category for Rack Room and its retail counterparts, insiders said they will also keep their eyes on
DSW will launch children’s shoes in 220 stores for the upcoming back-to-school season.14 I N S I D E R
A
“With a limited scope of categories
resonating strongly, both footwear and
apparel remain challenged.”
Jeff Van Sinderen
Study Guide Three must-know tips for brands and retailers to boost sales this back-to-school season.
1 Step Up Your DigitalTo be successful this back-to-school season, compa-nies must ensure that their e-commerce site is fully stocked, easy to navigate and efficient. That means consistent product availability, no hard-to-read text on mobile devices, and having an option to buy online/pick up in store.
Not only is today’s consumer more tech-savvy than ever before, digital natives (the Gen Z con-sumer) are apt to judge a company harshly if it fails to present well in the digital realm.
2 Make Sure the Price Is RightGone are the days when consumers felt trapped into making a purchase at a store simply because they have already spent half of their day running around and don’t want to be bothered with further store-to-store price comparisons.
These days, there’s an app for that. Whether they have downloaded a handy price comparison app or are simply using their smartphones to scan competitors’ websites, consumers have many ways to make sure they’re getting the best possible deal on products.
Companies tacking a couple extra bucks onto the price of merchandise in hopes of boosting their bottom line could actually be shooting themselves in the foot.
3Remember What’s the Spice of LifeKeeping things basic for back-to-school won’t cut it this year. The b-t-s crowd is looking for variety. This is a time of year when shoppers are buying footwear and apparel in bulk to be worn for a range of oc-casions throughout the school year. They’ll want everyday pieces as well as a few standout styles.
Parsons and Project partnered to debut “Next in Class,” showcasing graduates’ collections at the joint men’s show.16
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canvas styles by Vans and boat shoes by Sperry, which have both generated solid interest lately.
“I’ve seen more younger guys getting into boat shoes — initially it was just the girls,” said Marina Richey, store manager at Family Footwear in Bennington, Vt. “As for girl’s shoes: boat shoes, Sperry canvas sneakers, Converse canvas sneak-ers, higher-heeled clogs and fl ats like Birken-stock’s line will be [among our top styles].”
Manning also noted that Birkenstock would probably rank among the top sellers at Fontana’s Shoes. “We expect Birkenstock to sell strongly right through September — it has been one of our strongest sellers this summer.”
Still, ongoing sales of the popular sandal will be dependent on weather.
Both Marotta and Van Sinderen say they expect Mother Nature — largely uncooperative throughout the latter part of 2015 and early 2016 — to impact retail revenues as well as store traffi c this back-to-school season.
“Weather, unfortunately, always plays a big role,” Marotta said. “Going into the back-to-school season, cooler weather is preferred because it spurs fall demand and heightens the pace of sales early in the season and reduces the risk of heightened promotions late in the season.”
Last year’s unseasonably warm winter and fall
gave rise to heightened interest in short boots over tall boots, and many retailers plan to double down on the trend in this year’s inventory while ditching some of the heavy-duty winter styles.
“Booties were an emerging trend last year, and they took off throughout third and fourth quarter,” noted Michelle Mackin, VP and DMM of women’s nonathletic and accessories at Famous Footwear. “This year, it will defi nitely become the nonathletic shoe of choice, because [consumers are] replacing a fl at, or even a tall or midshaft boot, with a bootie.”
Conversely, Manning said he’s hoping a lack of interestin boots last year has created pent-up demand for the upcoming fall and winter seasons.
“Since a lot of our customers didn’t buy boots last year, we’re hoping people will need to replace those [old] boots that they squeezed the life out of this year,” he said.
Regarding popular color trends, Famous Footwear VP and DMM for kids’ shoes Dan Tea said he’s seen a switch toward more
clean and sophisticated colorways.“There’s defi nitely a shift in colors toward
more black, whites and grays — that’s the key story for kids shoes today,” Tea said. “For girls, it’s more about blues and teals — pink is a thing of
the past. Trends last year were all about crazy colors — prints, patterns, tie-dye and color blocking — now it’s a more monochromatic palette.”
Despite the shifts in color — and retailers’ modernized promotional strategies — for some buyers, the season’s success hinges on the shoes themselves.
“We have seen great trends in the footwear market, and ultimately those trends can drive good sales
— where there is good trend, there is good product, and where there’s good product, there’s good business,” Oralevich said. “I don’t know whether or not that [will actually] create the volume we all need it to and want it to create — but good product is the fi rst line of defense.”
— With contributions by Zameena Mejia
“Pink is a thing of the past. Trends last
year were all about crazy colors — prints,
patterns, tie-dye and color blocking — now it’s a more monochromatic
palette.” Dan Tea
UBM’s New Blend for MenBuyers and brands talk fresh trends at the recently combined Project and MRket show.
Shopping the men’s market just got even easier. As part of a recent reorganization, menswear shows Project and MRket last week shared floor space for the first time, at New York’s Javits Center — giving buyers seamless access between the events.
“All the energy that had been used to compete is now [being used] for a better experience,” said Leslie Gallin, president of footwear for UBM, which acquired MRket parent company Business Journals Inc. in April. According to Gallin, it’s a format that will be repeated at the upcoming trade shows in August in Las Vegas.
Vendors agreed that the revamp is a move in the right direction. “We’re able to pick up [more] traffic now that we’re in one location,” said Jeff Munzel, VP of sales for Trask, whose brand exhibits at Project Sole,
Project’s shoe component. “It has been nice getting all the custom-
ers in one location and for them to be able to canvas all the [footwear] opportunities,” he added, noting Project’s offering of faster, trend-driven looks, while MRket offers more classics.
Although MRket has been a strong show for Daniel Butler, national sales manager for Lines of Denmark, which distributes the Northern Cobbler and Anthony Miles collections, he’s excited about tapping into new opportunities from the Project side. “It now matters less which show you [exhibit] in — the combined traffic is much better,” Butler said.
The show highlighted spring ’17, with luxe-casual looks making a strong statement. “Men need something they can wear with a sport coat,” said Jacob Antebi, director of sales for Marc Joseph New York. That would be a new collection featuring dress shoe uppers on comfort-driven wedges. “It’s a cat-egory that will continue to grow,” he added.
At British brand Ted Baker, territory man-ager Kim Cohen said there’s a move toward casual product in a more formal context. “We’re translating formal looks into a more casual style that works with jeans or a sport coat or suit,” she said. Cohen highlighted the Kiing, a hand-finished leather trainer on a cup sole with brogue detailing.
Robert Carriere, owner of CarriereMenswear in Westlake Village, Calif.,expects the sneaker trend to continue intospring ’17. However, he noted, those done in classic white — popular for the past several seasons — will now take a back seat to ver-sions in a range of colors. When it comes to silhouettes, Carriere is banking on the continuation of slip-ons.
For retailer Paul de Marchin, owner of specialty store de Marchin in Hudson, N.Y., the dress-casual trend is picking up woven details for spring, incorporating the treatment into both shoes and accessories. “I carried [wovens] this spring, and they did well,” he said. “They look more expensive as well as handmade.”
The updated show format also at-tracted first-time exhibitors such as En-Soi, a fashion-forward line offering both footwear and leather outerwear, and A Fish Named Fred, a lifestyle collection from The Nether-lands, making its U.S. debut for spring. Both lines are produced in Turkey. — By Barbara Schneider-Levy
Leslie Gallin
Ted Baker’sKiing sneaker
17I N S I D E RCameron Helm worked with Elwood’s creative director, Jackson Wirht, on the collection.
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Mila Kunis, Kathryn Hahn and Kristen Bell go wild in style inthe summer buddy comedy “Bad Moms.” The movie, which arrivesin theaters this weekend, centers on three overworked mothers embracing their naughty side. Spy caught up with costume designer Julia Caston for a fashion preview.
How did you style Mila Kunis’ character, Amy? “A lot of women will identify with Amy because she’s a hardworking mom, and she’s also trying to balance her job and be the perfect wife. You’ll see Mila is great with the comedy [of her shoes]. She’s trying to get everywhere as fast as she can, and she’s hindered by her shoes.”
Was there one character you had the most fun with?“Carla, played by Kathryn Hahn, is sort of the woman we all want to be. She’s funny, sexy and doesn’t care what other people think. She wears a lot of BCBG, Guess and Bebe. Not to play favorites, but sitting with Kathryn and coming up with Carla was like being a kid in the candy store. We had a lot of fun. We created this person who is so colorful and wears the too-tight jeans and shows her cleavage.”
What was your favorite shoe moment in the movie?“When Amy gets dressed to go out in her little black dress, we used a YSL open-toe sandal. You’ll also notice she’s wearing panty hose. I just thought, ‘Why not?’ She’s a mom andhasn’t gone out in a long time. It’s funny because she’s very sexy, and you get to her feetand say, ‘What?’ ”
Mothers Go Rogue
“Bad Moms” actresses embrace both playful looks and comfort on the big screen.
Creative Calling It’s time to pimp your Sophia Webster shoes. The brand is hosting a contest to celebrate hitting 750,000 followers on Instagram. Participants are asked to color a printed-out shoe sketch of the Flamingo pump as part of the #Pimp-MyCoco challenge. Submis-sions can be made by posting the completed photo to Instagram through Aug. 8. The winner will be granted a gift, too: The design will be custom-made by Webster.
Flamingo pumps
Shop Talk United Nude is in an Empire State of mind. The brand opened a pop-up shop in New York’s Soho neighborhoodover the weekend. The space, featuring both women’s and men’s shoes, will hold its spot until Sept. 12. The shop’s design is true to the brand’s style found in its permanent location in Soho — including a primarily black décor and light-ing surrounding the futuristicand geometric shoes.
By Kristen Henning
With contributions from FN Staff
Ken’s KedsThere’s one pair of sneakers that Neiman Marcus SVP and fashion director Ken Downing can’t leave home without: his PRO Keds. At a summer mixer in New York last week, Downing said he ditched his beloved Chelsea boots in favor of a pair of kicks suitable for multiple occasions. “This summer, I’m doing a massive fashion show at the Detroit Institute of Arts. And [while I’m there], I’ll be wearing vintage Keds,” Downing said. “I’ve realized that I can get through TSA precheck super-quick, and I don’t have to remove my shoes. I love that my PRO Keds go from black tie to the next morning.”
KenDowning
Launch Party Elwood is now dressing consumers from head to toe. The California-based clothing company is debuting its first shoe collection for summer ’16. Cameron Helm, ownerand creative director of his eponymous business, partnered with Elwood for the launch. “I’m excited to be working with Elwood, using their clothing as inspiration,” said Helm. “We are exploring the brand’s DNA through a new product category. These are the only shoes on the market constructed out of the unique Star Terry fabric.”
Elwood sneakers
United Nudeshoes
Kristen Bell, Mila Kunisand Kathryn Hahn
storied designer is making his way back into the shoe industry at a lightning-fast pace.
Donald J. Pliner, who stepped down from his namesake company
in 2015 — four years after selling it to Castanea Partners — is ready to unveil two new lines: From the Mountains of Italy and From the Beachesof Spain.
“When I resigned, I had a noncompete [clause] for one year,” Pliner told Footwear News about his exit from his eponymous brand. “I knew [that if I wanted to] go back into business, with the
competition that’s out there, I couldn’t just do yesterday’s news.”
The new lines will be available for preview in August at his newly constructed showroom onNew York’s Upper East Side, just in time forFFANY and at FN Platform in Las Vegas.
Completing the process in just 25 days, thecollections — which are for men and women — will feature sneakers, smoking slippers, drivers, footbed sandals, wedges and espadrilles, with price points ranging from $250 to $475.
“This is our biggest opportunity,” he said, noting the pressure around the launch. “When I present
this line, there’s not a second chance.”Pliner is targeting several retailers including
Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and HSN, as well as multiple independents.
Meg Offutt, owner of Kemp’s Shoe Salon in Florida, said she is excited to preview the spring ’17 line. “Over the years, he always took the time to do personal appearances with us,” she said. “He is an extremely talented designer with a very good heart, and a person I will always consider a friend.”
Compared to his eponymous brand, which is now helmed by recently appointed CEO Javan Bunch, his new styles place an added emphasis on comfort, color and materials.
The shoes are produced in Italy and Spain, with the exception of his beading and embroidery details, which are handmade in India. Nappa and vachetta leathers, haircalf, white ostrich, black and pearled patents, and washed suedes are among the materials used for the collections. Comfort features include rocker bottoms, extra cushioned insoles and elastics.
“I had to change everything, [but] it’s always going to look like me,” said Pliner. “I had to come back so people know who I really am. Everything is new. [And] the materials and colors are going to separate them from what’s in the market.”
While his former company is still in business with rights to his name, the designer is optimistic that consumers and retailers will respond posi-tively to his latest effort.
“I realized that [the name] doesn’t matter because I know who I am now,” he said. “[These collections are] the true Donald Pliner. This is my next chapter.”
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18 I N S I D E R Putting emphasis on details, even the prototypes for the Nancy Gonzalez shoe collection were made of crocodile.
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With two new collections ready for a summer debut, designer Pliner comes back. By Nikara Johns
Donald’s Next Play
For the first time since its debut in 1998, exotic handbag brand Nancy Gonzalez is stepping outside of its usual domain.
In November, the label will launch a resort ’17 line of crocodile pumps, sandals and flats at Bergdorf Goodman and Harrods. The shoes will be available at additional retailers, including Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus, in December. “It needed to happen, and it needed to happen fast,” said Santiago Barberi Gonzalez, president and creative director. “[Nancy Gonzalez] could not continue being a one-category business.”
Count Bergdorf Goodman SVP Melissa Lowenkron among those who appreciate the brand expanding its line to include footwear. “I am confident our customers will be as excited about the collection’s combination of style, color and quality as we are,” she said.
With the handbag category seeing its share of challenges during the past year, now might be the optimum time to enter the footwear industry, according to Cowen & Co. analyst Oliver Chen.
“Generally, footwear is attractive to people because the frequency of purchase is much higher in terms of a seasonal purchase versus a handbag being less frequent,” Chen said, adding that he sees a host of possible synergies coming from the new product mix.
With a production limit of 2,500 shoes, Barberi Gonzalez said he was able to sell them all: “It’s small, but at the price point, it’s a nice order.” Ranging from $795 for a sandal to $2,395 for a pump, and offered in 20 different colors with multiple heel heights, they’re ex-pensive shoes, he admits, but are a good value compared with similar brands.
“The average price from a compara-ble brand is $5,500 for a pump,” Barberi Gonzalez said. “A crocodile-shoe project like this doesn’t exist in the world.”
Family-run Nancy Gonzalez operates its own handbag factories in Colombia,
selling 79,000 bags a year. Barberi Gonzalez said the firm chartered new territory when it hired a third-partyfactory in Italy to produce the shoes.
“I didn’t go to Italy for the ‘Made in Italy’ — I went to Italy because that’s where they know how to make the best shoes,” Barberi Gonzalez said, noting that each style in the new line was manu-factured in Italy in only seven months.
The creative chief’s backgroundin production also proved helpful inthe shoe-making process.
“I was allowed on the factory floor, and I spent a lot of time with the shoe factory workers on learning how the shoes were made,” he said.
Although the brand kept things sim-ple for its first footwear launch, Barberi Gonzalez said the shoes will eventually evolve to feature similar embellishments and decorative motifs as the handbags.
Founder Nancy Gonzalez was on hand to approve the shoes during manu-facturing, Barberi Gonzalez said, adding that she continues to give the label its “magic.” — By Nikara Johns
Nancy Gonzalez Dives Into Footwear
A sketch from Pliner’s latest
collections
Nancy Gonzalez’s new shoe line
The accessories label is revving up for its next phase of growth.
Prior to leading Wolverine’s Boston group, Woodworth served as president of Saucony.20 M I L E S T O N E
How interim brand president Richie Woodworth is getting the brand revved up for its next chapter.
By Sheena Butler-Young
Taking the Lead
KED
S100
For the past 100 years, Keds rode the wave of popularity, both its ups and downs. Now, the storied brand is defining what it takes to drive the label forward for the
next phase of growth.Just weeks after stepping into the role of
interim president of Keds (following the sud-den exit of Chris Lindner), Wolverine World Wide Inc. veteran Richie Woodworth is confi-dent that the brand has a winning formula in its arsenal.
“We’re going through a transition on the president’s role, but we feel comfortable and fine with it — mostly because we have such a great team,” Woodworth said of Lindner’s June departure. “We have three incredible, strong leaders who are women. So the transi-tion is a comfortable one, and [Wolverine CEO] Blake [Krueger] and I feel that the team is on track and doing great things. We don’t need some big rush for a president.”
Meanwhile, Woodworth, who’s also the president of Wolverine’s Boston Group, said he is focused on several major initiatives that will power Keds ahead. Among them: an ac-celerated e-commerce and social media strat-egy and ramped-up international efforts in Asia Pacific and Latin America. (The Boston Group is comprised of the Keds, Sperry and Saucony brands.)
Susquehanna Financial Group LLP analyst Christopher Svezia said that while he is more anxious about the developments on the prod-uct and distribution side, he is optimistic that Keds’ e-commerce and social media formula will be a win among core customers.
“If you think about the work that [Wolver-ine] has done over the past three years with Taylor Swift and what that has [meant] to the image and profile of the brand and the consumer they’re going after,” Svezia said, “it [seems] that their [digital] efforts could aug-ment growth — particularly, in terms of how their consumer is shopping [nowadays].”
Here, Woodworth talks leadership changes, international goals and the company’s new digs.
How has your current role as president of the
Boston Group prepared you to step into the brand
president role at Keds?
RW: I do a lot with all of the brands in the Boston
Group, so I don’t feel like stepping into this role
is a huge difference in terms of some of the things
that I would be doing. As group president, the ba-
sic discussions that I have are around strategy, in-
vestment and how we prioritize initiatives that are
directly linked to consumer engagement. But I’ll
[now] take a much more active role in day-to-day
decision-making and budgetary things at Keds.
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What drove the recent low-single-digit decline in
revenue at Keds in Q1?
RW: On a macro level, there is a huge shift happening
with the consumer today with regard to how they shop.
This has made things diffi cult for most of the major
malls in America and for key department stores, which
is where we do a good portion of Keds’ business. We
also see people shopping more online. That’s a shift
with our consumer in a prominent way. So we need to
be better in terms of social content and creating com-
munity with our consumer base. It’s important for us to
get our e-commerce and our direct business, in general,
in good shape.
What new initiatives are you develop-
ing on the product side?
RW: We’ve looked at and redone the
product architecture piece. We cleaned
it up and organized it in three distinc-
tive parts. There’s classic, which is
dominated by shoes that we’ve had in
our line for a long time including the
most prominent shoe, the Champion.
There’s contemporary, which is a way
to take and modernize shoes that may
have been in the line or might be new
to us and are more on trend. The third
piece is our sport line, which we’re having great
success with today. It fi ts into the Keds legacy
around court.
Do you have plans for expanding the Keds brand
internationally?
RW: We want to make sure that we’re pouring gas on
the places where we’ve seen success and where we have
momentum. Asia Pacifi c and Latin America have been
incredibly strong for Keds. We’ve also run a similar of-
fense over there by aligning ourselves with key indus-
try and entertainment people. We’ve done that with a
[singer and actress] in Korea named Krystal Jung. She
has almost 2 million followers on social media. She’s
[someone] that North American folks might not know,
but she’s famous and followed over there. China has
been great for us in terms of growth; so has Korea.
Japan has also been exceptional. If there was a
downside, we need to be better in Europe. That will
be a point of emphasis when we get into that, but
for now we’re going to focus on the places where we
can win.
Are you making any changes to your distribution
strategy?
RW: We’re going to focus our distribution around where
our consumer shops. The Keds customer is versatile
and fl exible, and they shop in lots
of diff erent places. That’s one of the
strengths of the brand. We can stretch
to $100-plus in a retail partner like
Barneys, and we can also be very
democratic and accessible in distribu-
tion like DSW.
What were your goals behind opening
the new headquarters?
RW: There are lots of footwear brands
based in and around Boston, and a lot
of them have redone their offi ces and
environments. To be competitive, you
have to have brilliant space, a great
gym and iconic branding eff orts in your fl oor space. For
us, it’s about retention and engaging best talent.
It also has to do with how the brands in the Boston
Group collaborate with one another. It’s an open
environment that allows us to be talkative, interact
and share with other people both inside and outside of
[each] brand.
What’s next for Keds?
RW: Keds is not at its high watermark in terms of
revenue. But with our [heightened] focus on our
leading lady — the consumer — and with women
[leaders] driving our brand, Keds has the right plat-
form, strategic initiatives and people that are willing
to roll up their sleeves to do the necessary work.
BLAKE’S TAKEWolverine World Widechairman, president and CEO Blake Krueger gets candid on Keds.
1. What does Keds add to the Wol-verine World Wide Inc. portfolio?“It’s a special brand. It’s the only brand we have that is solely com-mitted to fashionable footwear for women. It has the kind of heritage you can’t buy — it’s time-engrained. Keds has always been focused on champion women, and that also makes it unique.”
2. In finding a new brand president, what’s important?“We’re going to look very care-fully for someone who would be the perfect fit. In my mind, that person is a woman. We have some very strong candidates internally, but we’ve also started to reach out to some external people.”
3. Can you tell us some goals and business highlights?“Our internal goals haven’t changed. The Keds brand, at the time we acquired it, was well under $100 million [in revenues], focused almost entirely on the U.S. for distribution. We looked at all of those opportunities and tried to capitalize on them. A pleasant surprise for us has been theappeal of the brand internation-ally. We now have it in over 80 global markets and on everycontinent. We haven’t quite doubled the [total] revenues [since the acquisition], but we are getting pretty close. Since we’ve had it in our portfolio, the brand has grown at a strong double-digit [percentage] pace.”
“With our [heightened] focus
on the consumer, Keds has the
right platform and strategic initiatives.”
Richie Woodworth
Taylor Swift x Keds product
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earlier this month, the rapport among the women was both playful and poised. Dalton has been with the brand for six years, while Curtis joined in 2014 and Culp in 2015.
“We’re insanely collaborative, and we obses-sively bounce ideas off each other,” Culp said. “The three of us working together is not only fun, it’s strategically sound. It’s building busi-ness results.”
Here, Culp, Dalton and Curtis reflect on Keds’ 100th and how they’re positioning the iconic women’s brand for future success.
What does turning 100 mean to you?
Emily Culp: It’s such an honor and a privilege to
be at a brand that is turning 100. What’s amazing
is that we have this heritage, yet we’ve also been
Keds is celebrating 100 years of female empowerment with three strong women at the helm.
By Kristen Henning
Leading Ladies
he women of Keds know what women want.
Dubbed by brand insiders as the “trifecta,” these three creative executives — chief marketing
officer Emily Culp, VP of sales Elaine Dalton and global creative director and VP of product Holly Curtis — pack a powerful punch.
The trio is making bold marketing, product and collaboration moves during the brand’s centennial year, taking on more influence following the sudden departure last month of brand president Chris Lindner. (Company vet Richie Woodworth has assumed Lindner’s role in the interim.)
When Footwear News visited Keds’ syner-getic new headquarters in Waltham, Mass.,
T
Demi Moore was another leading lady at Keds — the actress starred in a brand campaign in the ’90s. 24 M I L E S T O N E
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Yoko Ono wore Keds when she married John Lennon in 1969. 25
KEDS100
able to be modern and relevant to our consumer
today. When I look back through our archives, it is
unbelievable to see the women who have worn our
brand, whether it’s Marilyn Monroe, Yoko Ono or
Audrey Hepburn. Now, [we have the] Keds Collec-
tive with [women such as] Ciara and Allison
Williams. It’s the perfect embodiment of Keds.
Elaine Dalton: It’s fantastic that Keds has been
super-supportive in putting women first. Our cen-
tennial is a great moment to pause and celebrate
our heritage, while creating relevance for women in
the future.
Holly Curtis: I’m inspired by heritage brands and
how much evolution has taken place. We’ve spent a
ton of time [talking about how] people are going to
look back at the history books and remember this
time period. So there is a lot of responsibility to set
the path for innovation and to figure out the next
100 years, while reflecting on the consumer of the
past 100 years.
What does it take to reach a major milestone such
as this?
ED: We stay true to our space in women’s fashion,
but that actually allows us to step a little further
outside of a classic [approach] and push the
envelope. We take the sneaker into a more fashion-
forward direction.
HC: Being focused on a singular consumer target.
There have definitely been moments in the last 100
years when we’ve had a broader reach, but being
so focused on women has remained important. You
can see through the history that there is a design
language that [Keds has] really stuck to.
EC: The most important part is the consumer —
being completely engaged with her and creating
something that makes her feel good and empow-
ered. One of my favorite quotes is when Marilyn
[Monroe] said, “Give a girl the right shoes, and she
can conquer the world.”
What moments stand out as pivotal?
ED: I was part of the team that relaunched the
brand in 2013, leveraging Taylor Swift as a cata-
lyst, and we’ve continued to grow and evolve that
platform of putting ladies first. We helped put the
brand back on the map.
EC: There was a point when women had no place
in footwear. They were restricted to wearing
high-heeled boots that were uncomfortable. The
company had the foresight to create a beautiful,
feminine canvas [shoe] to [give women the freedom
to] do everything they want to do. That was the
moment I’m most proud of.
HC: One of the big things we’ve put on the table
is our Made in the USA program. That’s been a
lifelong career goal of mine in general. We’re hoping
it’s a new classic.
What are you most excited about for the spring ’17
season?
ED: I’m excited about our expansion into the sport
category. Women are wearing sneakers to the office,
coffee with friends and out to dinner on Friday
night. Keds can own that wearing occasion.
HC: We are reinvigorating our sport heritage. The
casual trend is totally undeniable, and we’re trying
to capitalize on that.
EC: Wearable tech is a trend I’m extremely passion-
ate about. There are amazing new opportunities we
are starting to explore.
Looking ahead, what are some big goals for the
brand?
HC: We’re working a lot on the process and on team
development. We want to be more efficient and
more sustainable. We’re looking to create a stream-
lined process: a continual flow of product that’s on
a normal timeline, allowing space for innovation
around manufacturing and things like that.
EC: An important goal for the business and me is
[mastering] where our consumer wants to spend
her time and money. E-commerce is a huge oppor-
tunity. We need to deliver an amazing omnichannel
experience through our site and our U.S. partners.
ED: We have great distribution across the board.
We launched Made in the USA at Barneys, and
our collaboration with Topshop has mostly
sold out. I’m excited about our partnership with
Canadian [retailer] Aritzia for spring. From a dis-
tribution perspective, our product translates from
Colette down to Kohl’s, and not a lot of brands can
say that.
What challenges keep you up at night?
HC: If you look at the [big competitors], they have
resources within these massive holding companies.
Innovation and what that means to the organiza-
tion is the challenge. How can you move faster and
streamline your manufacturing process? Everyone
is facing that innovation question and what it
means for their business.
EC: The macroeconomic conditions are challenging.
All of us are aware of Brexit and what have you. I
see that as an opportunity. We’re winning in Asia, so
we’re going to continue to focus on that region. An-
other challenge is garnering all the consumer data
we have and leveraging it in a timely manner.
What advice do you pass on to the younger women
working at Keds?
EC: It goes back to integrity. You are the captain of
your own brand, so treat it as such. It’s important
to be thoughtful about how you choose to conduct
yourself as you engage with other people.
ED: I always say to keep taking on new projects.
Challenge yourself, push yourself into uncomfort-
able places — that’s where the opportunities are.
HC: Some of the best advice I got early on was to
work hard and to not be afraid to ask questions.
Understand the scope of the business and get out
and travel the world.
What is your future vision for the brand, as you look
ahead to the next 100 years?
EC: We have such a strong leadership team. Frankly,
what I’m most excited about is seeing what our
consumer is going to do. We are going to keep
riding our Ladies First Since 1916 campaign. It is
a timeless tagline, and it’s tapping into something
very relevant right now because it’s about champi-
oning women.
ED: The strategy is set. For 100 years, we have been
putting women first. We have new distribution,
which allows us to speak to our core consumer,
whether that’s online, in stores or on Keds.com.
That’s going to be a huge growth engine.
HC: We’ve all worked really hard to put a strategy in
place. We’ve been challenging ourselves to diversify.
Getting [consumers] to accept additional styles
from a heritage brand is challenging. We’ve already
seen amazing progress there — it’s a promising look
into our future.
Elaine Dalton,Emily Culp, Holly Curtis
In the early 2000s, Mischa Barton starred in the Be Cool marketing campaign for the brand.26 M I L E S T O N E
The singer is bringing major star power to Keds. Here, she candidly chats about her style, family and music.
By Kristen Henning
Ciara’s Hits
KED
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1. What is one of your earliest memories of
the brand?
“Keds were always a part of my wardrobe be-
cause the shoes are very aff ordable and classic. I
remember Keds being one of the brands I could
aff ord growing up. Cut to me later in life, and
I’m working with the brand; it’s amazing how
things happen this way. It’s cool how things
come full circle.”
2. What stands out about the Keds Collective
project and your fellow collaborators?
“It’s all about empowering females and repre-
senting the working woman [who] can put on a
dress and heels, or in this case Keds, and put out
a fi re at the same time. The campaign represents
a strong woman. As I put my life in perspective,
and as a mom, it’s important we all encourage
each other because we’re living in a time where
women can do anything. It’s really amazing how
the Keds brand speaks to that. I met Allison
[Williams], and she was a sweet girl. It’s a
diverse group, which is super cool.”
3. How would you describe your personal
style, and how does the brand fi t into the mix?
“It’s funny because I’m a tomboy,
but I also like to get sexy. I love
drama a lot of times. They say dia-
monds are a girl’s best friend, but
in my case, I say shoes.
“I am a big fan of the Keds Tri-
ple; it gives you height. I wore the
style to the 100th anniversary party.
I love that you can dress them up or
down. It might be psychological for
me, but I do think the style gives
your legs a sexy touch.”
4. Who are a few female
designers you are a fan of?
“Donna Karan is awesome. It’s
one thing to wear her clothes, but it’s another
thing to learn more about them, like during her
speech at the CFDA Awards. Norma Kamali is
also incredible; she’s a rocking woman.”
5. Do you have a fashion icon?
“I love Michael Jackson. I think he was the great-
est performer to grace this earth. He found a
great way to merge fashion with entertainment.
What I loved about Michael is he found a great
way of mastering branding, and he was very
consistent with his creative ideas.”
6. Who would you consider your biggest
female mentor?
“My grandmother. She always said to sit back
and watch the show and to let life fl ow. It’s been
a cool thing to teach patience and understand
people a little better that way.”
7. Your last album, “Jackie,” was released in
2015. Any hints about your next one?
“It’s my seventh album, and they say seven is a
lucky number. I believe in things happening how
they are supposed to. I want to make this my best
album, and I want to take my time with that.
“My music continues to grow as I grow — as a
woman and as a mom. I’m taking my time with it
and having fun in the process.”
8. What artists do you dream of collaborating
with one day?
“Skrillex is amazing, I would love to work with
someone like him. I love looking at new talent,
and I like to get to know some of the fresh
writers and producers.”
9. What shoe brands do you love for your son?
“Keds are supercute in kids’ sizes. Rain boots for
kids are so adorable, especially when we’re in
Seattle, where it rains a lot.”
10. What’s next with Keds?
“I’m truly enjoying the experi-
ence thus far; it’s been awesome.
The meaning and the messaging
is a huge factor for me. Empow-
ering women and encourag-
ing the working women [who]
have dreams — I call [them] the
women of ambition on a mission.
We get to go out and push the
message that is superpowerful
and positive. I look forward to
doing more projects that speak to
all of that.”
or Ciara, singing and standout style go hand in hand. The song-
stress is one of the high-profi le women starring in a major moment
for the brand. The Keds Collective initiative launched this year with
a campaign titled Ladies First Since 1916, featuring women who
portray the label heritage: Allison Williams, Tori Kelly and Jamie Chung. “One
of the most important factors of the [Collective] is the female empowerment
message that Keds delivers,” said Ciara, who performed “Goodies” and “I Will
Survive” at an anniversary party for the brand earlier this year. The star, who
recently married Seattle Seahawks quarterback Russell Wilson, talks to FN
about her personal style, female mentors, family life, new music and more.
STYLISH SELECTSA look at the three Keds silhouettes that Ciaraconsiders her must-haves.
Triple seasonal solids in black
Champion in white
Triple high tweed in dark gray
“Empowering and encouraging
the working women [who] have dreams
— I call [them] the women of ambition on a
mission.”Ciara
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Major League BaseballFor the 2016 season, Keds teamed with Major League Baseball to release the ChampionMLB Pennant collection featuring 11 teams —including the New York Yankees, Chicago Cubs, Boston Red Sox and Los Angeles Dodg-ers. The shoes are embroidered with team logos and include baseball-stitch detailing.
Power Partners Taylor Swift, Opening Ceremony and more: Here’s a closer look at nine noteworthy brand pairings. By Nikara Johns
Colette x DoraemonIn line with Keds’ 100th anniversary, the brand worked with French retailer Colette for a limited-edition collection featuring the popular Japanese character Doraemon. The collabora-tion included two different styles and was sold exclusively at the Parisian boutique.
Malhia KentA special nine-piece collection with Parisian textile manufacturer Malhia Kent, slated to launch Aug. 25, includes revamped versions of the Keds’ iconic Champion, Triple Decker and slip-on outfitted with textiles from the famed French Malhia Kent textile mill.
Taylor Swift CollectionKeds’ multiyear deal with Taylor Swift was amajor push for the brand. Last year, Swift starred in Keds’ Ladies First campaign, kicking off a new era surrounding female empowerment. With multiple collections, Swift gave fans shoes commemorating her 1989 World Tour, along with the Champion Sneaky Cat.
LoomstateThe collection with sustainable design house Loomstate, sold exclusively at Barneys, includes five prints based on the Keds' classic Champion laceless silhouette. The shoes were designed with 100-percent certified organic cotton uppers and linings, nickel-free eyelets, and completely recycled insole boards.
MadewellDuring its ongoing collaboration, Kedsand Madewell released three collections featuring feminine aesthetic sneakers.Styles included shoes featuring vintage-inspired Madewell floral print, eyelets, stripes and polka dots.
Kate Spade New YorkKate Spade and Keds launched their first collab in 2013 and have continuously released new collections since. With stripes, polka dots, sequin and glitter, Kate Spade infused its whimsical femininity into the classic sneaker.
Opening CeremonyIn 2011, Keds teamed with Opening Ceremony to create a collection of baseball-inspired shoes. Keds reintroduced the Championship Series in three colors for Opening Ceremony’s Fashion’s Night Out event.
Made in the USAThe capsule collection, sold exclusively at Bar-neys, pays homage to the brand’s deep roots in American fashion and culture. The entire shoe is designed, sourced and manufactured in the U.S.
KEDS100
The brand tapped big names such as Allison Williams and Ciara to help launch its marketing plans for the next century.
By Margaret Sutherlin
Female Forces
hen Keds looked to kick
off its centennial year
with a spunky and fresh
new campaign, the team
turned to the past for
inspiration.
The iconic label channeled its
roots as a brand for women, founded
in 1916 as an alternative shoe to the
typical turn-of-the-century heeled
boot. That heritage story became the
starting point for its latest marketing
success: the Keds Collective.
Just a few months into the job,
chief marketing offi cer Emily Culp
said she was learning about her
customer when the idea struck her
— to highlight the brand’s beginning
through powerful, personable and
empowering women.
“One day [our consumer] might
channel looking like Audrey Hep-
burn, and the next she’s Yoko Ono,”
said Culp. “[We wanted to] create
W
an amazing and dynamic group of
entrepreneurial women who refl ected
and captured the moxie and spirit of
our consumer.”
Culp and the Keds team, along
with support of Refi nery 29, tapped
actress Allison Williams, singer Ciara,
fashion blogger Jamie Chung and
emerging singer Tori Kelly, among
others, to star in the fi rst grouping of
women to represent the brand.
“It was one of those rare instances
where I didn’t have to give it much
thought because I like Keds,” said
Williams. “I like what they stand
for, and I like the shoes. In a time
when we still have a long way to
go in terms of male and
female equality … it’s
refreshing to see a com-
pany that makes no
secret of its support
and love for women
— and women of all
ages.”
The goal of the
Keds Collective is
not just to high-
light celebrity fans,
but also to create
meaningful stories with
women who embody
the Ladies First Since
1916 tagline. The brand
searched for women
who shared similarities with its
customer base — creative personali-
ties, with a focus on both fashion and
technology.
Through social media posts, digital
and print spots, and a Keds birthday
bash ahead of New York Fashion
Week, the Collective aims to raise
the brand profi le with the story of an
empowered female.
Small- and silver-screen expo-
sure are also in the mix: Williams
said she’s been wearing Keds more
frequently, and they’ve appeared in
her projects such as the HBO series
“Girls” and the upcoming movie
“Get Out.”
But what has made the project
so successful, said Culp, is that Keds
searched for women who genuinely
love the brand.
“Allison could tell us the fi rst pair
of Keds she wore, and she knew about
the U.S. Rubber Co. founding us be-
cause she’d done a report when
she was little,” Culp said. “This is stuff
you can’t make up. You get a sense
if they authentically love your brand,
and to me that is far more important
than paying [a] person to wear our
shoes.”
Williams said working with the
brand has been a wonderful experi-
ence, especially because Keds has
gone the extra mile to support her
creatively and philanthropically. In
particular, she said Keds was quick to
provide fi nancial support for
Horizons, one of her favor-
ite educational nonprofi ts.
“Companies don’t stick
around for 100 years by
some happy accident.
It indicates that it’s
not only well run
but well consumed
and well regarded
and has avoided so
many of the pitfalls
other companies
have had over time,”
said Williams. “I
liked celebrating
that.”
For the future of the Keds
Collective, Culp said she’d
bring in new faces and a few
familiar old ones with every
new edition. There will
also be robust mobile-fi rst
content with videos, social
posts and more.
KEDS100
Allison Williamscelebrates Keds
on Instagram
Jamie Chung
Allison Williams
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32 M I L E S T O N E ENTERTAINMENT
KEDS100
Keds has enjoyed a number of
appearances on the big screen and on
television, cementing the brand’s
popular-culture status. The shoes have
been on the feet of Hollywood darlings
such as Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn
Monroe and more recently Leonardo
DiCaprio, proving that a classic sneaker
never goes out of style. Here are some
major moments in film and TV.
By Rachael Allen
Screen Time
“Clash by Night”Marilyn Monroe defined glamour in the 1950s, but her style for this 1952 film was decidedly casual. She eschewed her fitted dresses and high heels for cuffed jeans and Keds Champion sneakers.
“Now and Then”In this 1995 flick, four friends reunite in their hometown after years apart. In the scenes covering their teen years in the 1970s, Roberta (Christina Ricci) and Teeny (Thora Birch) often have Keds Champion sneakers on their feet.
“The Aviator”For this 2004 film, Leonardo DiCaprio transformed into famed 20th-century millionaire aviator and movie director Howard Hughes. In a nod to Hughes’ affinity for sneakers, DiCaprio wore the Keds Triumph silhouette, which was introduced in the 1920s.
“Saved by the Bell”Kelly Kapowski (played by Tiffani Thiessen) made getting dressed for school fun again with her signature brightly hued leggings, printed skirts and high-waisted denim. She also made Keds a must-have for teen girls in the 1990s, effortlessly pairing her Keds Champion sneakers with her cheery outfits.
“Dirty Dancing”Keds enjoyed one of its biggest starring roles in this 1987 classic dance-driven movie. Jennifer Grey, who played Frances “Baby” Houseman, almost always had white Keds Champion sneakers on her feet while dancing her way into the heart of Patrick Swayze’s character, Johnny Castle.
“Two for the Road”Audrey Hepburn was already one of Hollywood’s top stars and enduring style icons when this film was released in 1967. In the movie, set across Europe, Hepburn’s Wallace often turned to black Keds Champion sneakers for her adventures.
“The starting point of the collection is 1980s glam, infused with a sophisti-
cated and contemporary aesthetic. For our new
Bustier gladiator sandal, I drew inspiration from Steven Meisel’s portrait
of Linda Evangelista.” Cesare Casadei
Fourteen of footwear’s most creative names share exclusive sketches and intriguing backstories behind their spring ’17 collections.
Associate Fashion Editor:Christian Allaire
34
BROTHER VELLIESover-the-knee springbok boot
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Drawing Attention
CASADEI
“A yearly trip to Palm Springs brings much in-
spiration from its beauti-ful architecture, relaxed atmosphere and poolside gossip. Pastels and casual
materials like raffia and denim bring a flavor of the Palm Springs life-
style.” Natalia Barbieri
“The starting point came from a trip to the desert
in Arizona, looking at the vast and dramatic
landscapes while draw-ing inspiration from
my favorite artists Dan Flavin, James Turrell and Olafur Eliasson.”
Nicholas Kirkwood
“I drew inspiration from nature. The vivid and
ombre colors of flowers like this one inspired
the detailing on many of the shoes. I named the
styles after their floral inspirations, including this sketch of the Viola
sandal.” Sarah Flint
35
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NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD
SARAH FLINT
BIONDA CASTANA
“The spring collection looks to coastal life-forms
and summer’s retreat to the sea — taking
reference from natural elements of the coast, the ebb and flow of the ocean, seagrass and hand-woven
boater hats.” Jane Frances
“A key runway style of the season features an
open-toed platform sandal with a stacked heel and three layers
of woven leather.”
Daniel Lawler
“The main inspiration comes from geometry,
ballet, decorative motifs and architectural forms.
The muse that always inspires me the most is a strong, contemporary woman with a romantic heart and a passionate
mind.” Edoardo Caovilla
36
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DEAR FRANCES
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
RENÉ CAOVILLA
“I explored a more gentle, organic and grown up expression of myself
while incorporating ele-ments that have become
brand DNA. The use of color is always impor-
tant, as are embroideries and an element of non-
chalant fun.” Isa Tapia
“The collection was inspired by old paintings
of hot-air balloons from the 1800s. There was something so magical
about the idea of travel-ing in one over the
English countryside in the summer.”
Tabitha Simmons
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TABITHA SIMMONS
ISA TAPIA
“The spring collection is inspired
by a romantic woman who loves
soft fabrics and pastel colors.”
Giuseppe Zanotti
“‘Organza-tastic. I was trying to build up a big ruff, based on organza
and simple lines. We sourced the best materi-
als we could in Italy and made it as dense and
rich as possible.” Rupert Sanderson
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RUPERT SANDERSON
GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI
“Whenever it comes to summer, I want collec-
tions that make you happy, make you want to go on holidays, have
a cocktail or go danc-ing. This collection was
inspired by my 30th birthday party. The mood
is tribal and exotic.” Edgardo Osorio
“The collection explores the amazing Moroccan
cities of Casablanca and Marrakech, being
seduced by the nomadic Berber Tribes and their centuries-old customs,
craftsmanship and tradi-tions.” Giuseppe Santoni
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“I love the signature paintings of Ben Weiner.
It seemed instinctive to me to be inspired by
them for my collection. I was drawn to the soft
yet sharp silhouettes he creates, as well as his
beautiful color palettes.” Jerome Rousseau
JEROME C. ROUSSEAU
SANTONI
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Lawler found inspiration in Oscar de la Renta’s new archival facility in Long Island City, N.Y. 41
T H E L I S T
Hot TropicUptown girl hits the beach. For resort ’17, Oscar de la Renta footwear designer Daniel Lawler reimagined exquisite vacation wear via an intricate wedge sandal made of laser-cut leather bonded to raffia.
2M A R I O N
PA R K E ’S P I C KS
3C H E A N EY
M A D E M O D E R N
4G O R ES K I ’S
C LOS E TCO N F ESS I O N S
5ROS I E P O P E G E TS R E A L
6CO O L N EWS
FO R K I DS
7T H E ‘O N E ’ &
O N LY M AU R I C E
8CO M FO RT BUZ Z
S H O EO F T H EW E E K1
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Parke’s brand recently began selling on luxury e-tail site Orchard Mile.42 T H E L I S T WOMEN’S
Marion Parke is paving a path that’s all her own. “When I design,I don’t follow trends,” said Parke, also a podiatric surgeon, who debuted the comfort-meets-luxury line for spring ’16, featuring a four-part patent-pending insole. “I make what I love and what I think the Marion Parke woman needs in her closet. Hopefully in the process,I set trends.” The brand has been in rapid growth mode this year, recently unveiling an e-commerce site. “We had an overwhelmingly positive response to the debut collection and therefore made the decision to launch the site this summer, a year ahead of our projections,” said Parke. Plus, the Italian-made label last month held its third trunk show with Moda Operandi, selling select resort styles for two weeks. The spring ’17 collection, priced between $625 and $825, is a mix of rock ’n’ roll meets feminine. The line includes ankle-strap heels, mules and menswear-inspired looks; among the fresh touches are mesh, spat color combinations, eyelet details and hand-distressed denim. Here, Parke reveals her sporty side and favorite fashion icons, plus the celebrity she’s been crushing on since the eighth grade.
Marion ParkeThe designer is gaining attention during her second year in business. By Kristen Henning
GOOD TASTE
HIDDEN TALENTS:
“I started playing sports at a young age — field hockey and soccer specifically — and can still juggle a soccer ball.”
CELEBRITY CRUSH:
“My husband is keenly aware of my celebrity crush. It has been the same since I was in the eighth grade: Keanu Reeves. I can’t explain it.”
FAVORITE ERA FOR FASHION:
“The present is an interesting time. There is disruption of the traditional fashion paradigm with high-low dressing and social media giving bloggers and customers a voice.”
WHAT’S IN MY BAG:
“La Mer ‘The Lip Balm,’ my iPhone and shoes from my collection.”
STYLE ICONS:
“I have so many, and they’re a mix of ladylike and rock ’n’ roll edge, just like my collection. Stevie Nicks, Elizabeth Taylor, Kate Moss, Jerry Hall, C.Z. Guest.”
SHOE TREND I’LL NEVER TRY:
“Flip-flops.”
2
Cheaney and Church’s respectively produce 500 and 1,500 pairs of shoes per week.44 T H E L I S T MEN’S
British shoemaker Cheaney is fêting 130 years in business with royal approval and a TV-friendly capsule collection. By Paulina Szmydke
Brogues in Vogue
f you are looking for a seal of approval for your classic Eng-lish brogues, does the Queen of England’s sound about right?This year marks the third time
Cheaney, the 130-year-old luxury shoemaker hailing from Northampton, England, has scooped the coveted Queen’s Award for En-terprise, which her majesty gives away for outstanding work in international trade — or in this case, for a collection of exquisitely handcrafted leather footwear, entirely made in Britain.
“This is our biggest point of difference,” said Jonathan Church, managing director of the brand and a fifth-generation member of the legendary Church’s shoe family, which owns Cheaney.
According to the executive, while many other so-called “heritage brands” conduct the “closing” (or stitching of the uppers) offshore before assembling the various parts in-house, Cheaney’s shoes do not leave British soil at any point of the manufactur-ing process.
In fact, the company has been making its iconic footwear in the same factory since 1886, following a system that requires 200 hand operations per pair during an eight-week process, from the cutting of the leather to the stitching and the house’s signature hand-burnishing technique, which gives the shoes their unique, translucent color.
“Doing all in-house also allows a quicker turnaround and better quality control,” Church said.
In recent years, Cheaney, which until the 1970s was best known as a contract manufacturer for other labels, has stepped up expansion under the ownership of Church and his cousin William. Their family operated the brand from 1966 to 1999, when it was absorbed into the Prada Group, from which they reclaimed it in 2009. (See sidebar for more.)
Taking Cheaney back was a no-brainer, said its managing director. “It has all the right ingredients: It is heritage, has its own factory and, most importantly, a skilled
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45MEN’S
BRAD GORESKIThe “Fashion Police” regular and creative director of C. Wonder’s women’s collection talks designer footwear with a touch of bling.
By Barbara Schneider-Levy
PAIRS OWNED: 150
BRAND MIX: “Christian Loubou-tin is one of my absolute favorites. I have about 30 or 40 pairs of his shoes. I wear a lot of Givenchy sneakers. I also love good old Nike or New Balance shoes and have a lot of them. I recently purchased a pair of bright red Balenciaga sneakers.”
CLOSET ORGANIZATION: “In my [main] closet, there are four rows of shoes. I have a separate shoe closet where they’re packed away until I’m ready to bring them back into the fold.”
MOST COV-ETED PAIR: “Givenchy pointy-toe laceups with studs around the sole and a metal strip down the heel. I got them about a year ago in the [designer’s] Paris store, for about 500 euros. I thought I’d wear them a few times, but now they’re like my running shoes.”
PRICIEST PAIR: “Christian Louboutin black suede and leather laceups. They’re a mix of textures and trims [and feature] chain around the sole and a pat-ent leather toe cap. They were a couple of thousand dollars.”
BUYING CRITERIA: “I don’t care about comfort — I can suff er. I’d rather have a fabulous conversa-tion piece that makes my outfi t. When you wear a good pair of shoes in New York, people stop you on the street — people in fashion or even construction workers. People respond to things that are diff erent. That’s the power of wearing a great pair of shoes.”
BEST SHOE HAUNT: “I’m an avid Mr. Porter shopper. I don’t have a lot of time to go to stores, so I go online, search for what I‘m looking for, and it gets delivered. Also, my friends at Christian Louboutin are extremely generous and keep me in good step.”
FAVORITE FASHION DECADE: “The 1940s and ’50s. I like the look of men dressing up for the sake of it. A man can look great in a T-shirt and jeans, but a guy in a well-tailored suit with a great pair of shoes, nice grooming and good sunglasses — you can never go wrong. It’s that old Cary Grant look. Today, I look to Ryan Gosling, Jared Leto. Those guys aren’t afraid to push the boundaries and do something diff erent.”
SHOE STYLE I’D NEVER WEAR: “I don’t love sandals. How-
ever, I have a great pair of Christopher
Kane’s for my upcoming
vacation. I’m sure they’ll make their way to the
beach in the south
of France, but in the city, I don’t like fl ip-fl ops
where my feet are exposed — not my jam.”
DREAM SHOE: “I’m a sucker for sparkle on a shoe such as Swarovski crystals. I’m [likely] getting married next year and [plan] to make custom shoes for the two of us. They’ll probably have sparkle for me, but not for my fi ancé, Gary. I [might] dotwo pairs — something with afun twist for the ceremony and then legitimate dancing shoes.”
CLOSET CASE
Balenciaga
ChristopherKane
local workforce, some of whom are fi fth-generation employees,” Jonathan Church said. “You can buy shoe machinery, but to actually have people who know how to make the product is rare.”
It was also the right moment to jump in with an off er. “In 2009, the world was still suff ering from the 2008 [economic] collapse. It was a good time to invest in the brand because it could only get bet-ter,” he added.
Time has proven the Church family right. In the past seven years, Cheaney’s sales more than doubled, from 4 million pounds (or $6.5 million at average exchange rates) to 9.6 million pounds (or $12.9 million), while exports tripled, now ac-counting for a third of the company’s turnover. Church noted this was pos-sible thanks to a bold shift intomultichannel dis-tribution, following the company’s newly gained freedom.
Although technically part of the larger Church’s business, Cheaney is kept as a separate entity, allowing the smaller sibling company “to do what we want to do,” as its director put it.
Cheaney runs six standalone stores — four in London and one each in Cambridge and Leeds — in addition to a new e-shop, which accounts for about 10 percent of total revenue. “The plan
is to add one store per year in the next fi ve years,” Church said, noting that the company could possibly set up a store abroad in the more distant future.
Its largest export market is Japan, accounting for 60 percent of sales, which Church attributes to the Japanese consumer’s sense for quality. “It’s a good time for genuine heritage brands, which are particularly sought out in the Far East,” he said. “People are buying into a history of consistency. It’s like a track record of quality.”
While the brand is renowned for its strong “Coun-try” collection — including the Tweed C, a Goodyear-welted boot in hand-somely grained leather that has been the label’s best-seller — it recently also at-tained celebrity status with its new, retro-tinged Aviator 1945
capsule following its appearance in the BBC series “Peaky Blinders.”
And although the company has made forays into the sportswear area — its fi rst sneaker launched for fall ’16 — Church assured that Cheaney would continue to build on its heritage rather than follow trends: “We are a classic welted house. You don’t want to move too far away from the core of what you do or you start becoming something you are not.”
“It’s a good time for genuine heritage
brands. ... People are buying into a history of consistency. It’s like a track record of quality.”
Jonathan Church
4
A BRIEF HISTORY
1886Joseph Cheaney estab-
lishes J. Cheaney, Boot & Shoemakers in Desbor-
ough, Northamptonshire.
1896Production moves
into present factory location.
1966Shoemaker wins
the Queen’s Award for the fi rst time.
1966Cheaney brand sold to Church & Co. Plc.
1999Church’s family
business is taken over by Prada Group.
2009Jonathan and William
Church conduct a manage-ment buyout of Cheaney
from Prada subsidiary Church & Co.
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Pope starred in the Bravo reality series “Pregnant in Heels,” chronicling her life as a maternity concierge.46 T H E L I S T CHILDREN’S
Rosie Pope knows babies. While juggling raising her own four young children, the British-born, New York-based entrepreneur oversees a successful maternity and baby-wear brand and leads classes to help moms navigate pregnancy and parenting. Now, she’s brought her expertise to the shoe business with a collection of soft-sole baby styles, created with licensing partner McCubbin. “Launching shoes has always been a dream of mine. Plus, gifting is so important in the baby space,” said Pope, who also serves as a digital brand ambassador for Stride Rite. Her footwear collection, off ered in newborn and infant sizes, showcases playful details such as 3-D angel wings, monster eyes and embossed phrases, among them “Shoot for the moon.” “I like to create things that make people smile. And the shoes are designed for developing feet and have plenty of little details to make them easy to put on and stay on,” noted Pope, adding that the collection will expand to toddler styles. Priced at $20, the shoes are available at Pope’s New York and Santa Monica, Calif., boutiques, as well as at Nordstrom, Buy Buy Baby, Amazon.com and other independent and department stores.
Rosie PopeThe well-known designer and parenting guru talks about her newest addition: a line of baby shoes. By Erin E. Clack
GOOD TASTE
THE PERFECT FAMILY OUTING IN NEW YORK:
“A trip to the petting zoo, followed by a slow walk through Central Park, stopping at as many of the brilliant playgrounds as possible.”
I NEVER LEAVE HOME WITHOUT …
“Some Rosebud lip salve and a bottle of Perrier. I hate dry lips and being thirsty.”
WHEN I WAS A KID, I WANTED TO GROW UP TO BE …
“Sometimes it was a doctor, and sometimes it was a supermarket cashier because I always wanted one of those registers.”
FAVORITE ENGLISH COMFORT FOOD:
“Marmite with butter on toast. You have to be born eating Marmite, otherwise it doesn’t make sense.”
MOST LOVED CHILDREN’S CHARACTER:
“Primrose from ‘Brambly Hedge.’ ”
BEST PARENTING ADVICE I GOT FROM MY MOM:
“Holidays are meant to be a big deal. My mother taught me the joys of really celebrating and creating family traditions, from Valentine’s Day through Christmas.”
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Expansion TrailNicole Miller is adding children’s shoes to her fashion empire. Under a new licensing agreement with Miami-based Kinderland Inc., the veteran designer will debut fashion-forward girls’ styles under the Nicole Miller Signature and Nicole Miller New York labels. Launching in stores next spring, the collection will feature more than 300 different looks, including sandals, ballet flats, moccasins, espadrilles and sneakers, available in toddler to teen sizes. Miller’s signature prints and details will be showcased
BUZZ
Kids’ News
In CharacterBiion’s spring ’17 children’s collection will feature some familiar faces. The Canadian brand has added a number of new entertain-ment licenses, among them Nickelodeon’s SpongeBob SquarePants and Teenage Mutant Turtles, as well as various Disney properties including Mickey and Minnie Mouse, “Frozen,” Snow White, “Beauty & the Beast,” “Finding Dory” and “Toy Story.” Under the partnership with Disney, Biion also will release a series of special capsule collections alongside major movie releases throughout the next two years. All of the licensed characters will be featured on the brand’s classic Oxford Brogue style, which is detailed with an ultra-lightweight EVA upper and an anti-slip rubber bottom. Priced from $50 to $60, the shoes will be avail-able in sizes 4 to 13 and 1 to 4.
6throughout. Kinderland plans to unveil the collection, priced from $35 to $60, at next month’s FFANY trade show in New York.
Home GoodsEmu Australia is introducing a small collection of kids’ slippers for spring ’17. The offering includes both mocca-sins and scuffs, lined with cozy wool. Consumers can choose from a range of colors, as well as a gold star print. Available in sizes 8 to 4, the rubber-sole slippers will retail from $50 to $60. Emu’s spring collection also will feature a new series of matching, mommy-and-me looks. The lineup includes two different suede ankle boot styles, one with a buckle strap over the vamp and the other detailed with a slouchy, perforated upper. Both are
offered in multiple colorways. The chil-
dren’s styles will retail for $50,
while the women’s styles
will retail from $110 to $120.
Emu mommy-and-me boots
Nicole Millergladiator
Biion’s “Finding Dory” kids’ shoes
My launching pad:I started Comfort One at 40. The timing was perfect. I had a back-ground in corporate America with Federated Department Stores. It [proved to be] excellent training for my merchandising and buying skills. Next, I went to Hoffheimer’s in Norfolk, Va., where I was in senior management and then became an owner. These experiences helped me
understand what it takes to be a niche retailer in a major market.
Greatest mentors:From an early age, I worked in department stores as a [shoe] department manager. I was at Filene’s in Nadick, Mass., where the manager, Dick Malatesta, was phenomenal. He was calm and always wanted to help. He’d be the guy to pick up a piece of
paper from the floor. There was also Carol Greer at Rich’s who had a very calm demeanor, as well as her boss, Terry Barkin, who was the opposite — bright, but very demanding.
My managerial style:We [need] to have the very best person in each company role. Therefore, I like to get opinions at the lowest level. I talk to our truck drivers, warehouse and sales people, as well as managers. Several years ago, I got an idea from our transportation manager that was so good, [as a thank you], we sent him and his family to Hawaii.
Our competitive edge:We specialize in better-grade Euro-comfort shoes and can fit the vast majority of customers. This [model] enables us to carry far less inventory than typical size-and-width indepen-dents. Due to this, our turnover was so great in the early years we were able to fund additional stores time and time again.
How I solicit advice:Vendors will always tell you how great you are, but you also need to know when you’re messing up. We’ve [established] a cabinet — a group of semiretired individuals with retail shoe backgrounds who go around to our stores twice a year so they can give us their opinions. We also have a board of directors. We sit down with them twice a year and go through the good, bad and ugly to come up with a game plan, suggestions and points to improve on.
Grooming the next generation:We’re fortunate to have my son Garrett as VP of merchandising. This is a very exciting, dynamic and creative industry. [I tell him to] try to get to as many shoe shows as you can, talk to your valued vendor partners, never miss an opportunity to see a factory, visit other stores and network with your next-gen colleagues.
Biggest challenges facing the industry:There’s pressure from the ridiculous amount of square footage per capita at retail, and I anticipate a shakedown as we’ve seen with companies such as Sports Authority. Next, retailers that don’t offer consumers a fun, positive and exciting in-store experience are going to struggle. Customers have to want to come to your store. IL
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Comfort One Shoes operates 22 stores in the mid-Atlantic region.48 T H E L I S T COMFORT
THINKING POSITIVEThree things that make Maurice Breton smile.
1TRADING PLACES
I’d like to [swap roles] with Steve Madden. He always has a smile on his face and seems to have a great time.
2FEEL-GOOD MOMENT
Knowing we take care of our people and they take care of our customers gives me great pleasure.
3RELAX MODE
My wife and I have become cruise groupies. We recently returned from Israel, the Greek Islands, Sicily and Capri.
The president of Comfort One Shoes continues to grow his retail chain by tapping the skills and insight of his entire team. By Barbara Schneider-Levy
Maurice BretonLEADER BOARD
7
Footwear News 2016 Editorial Calendar
ISSUE DATE SPACE CLOSE EDITORIAL FEATURE
AUGUST
8/1 7/20 FFANY Show Distribution: FFANY
8/8 7/27 FN PLATFORM Pre-Show, Made In Brazil Distribution: FN PLATFORM
8/15 8/3 FN PLATFORM Show, Materials & Components Distribution: NSRA Conference, FN PLATFORM, WWDMAGIC, Project LV, Agenda Show, The Atlanta Shoe Market
8/29 8/17 theMICAM Show, FN PLATFORM Show Wrap-Up Distribution: NW Materials Show, theMICAM Show
SEPTEMBER
9/5 8/24 Concepts Milestone, Sneakerhead Distribution: NE Materials Show, Shoe Market of Americas
9/12 8/31 Jimmy Choo Milestone Distribution: Children’s Great Event Shoe Show
9/19 9/7 Must Buys Spring, China, NY Runway Coverage Distribution: Sole Commerce, Children’s Club of NY
OCTOBER
10/3 9/21 Best In Kids, Kids Fashion, Milan Runway Coverage
10/10 9/28 Work Boot, Occupational Footwear, Outdoor, Paris Runway Coverage Distribution: FDRA Summit (CA)
10/17 10/5 FN 100
10/24 10/12 QVC Presents FFANY Shoes On Sale Distribution: QVC presents FFANY Shoes On Sale Event
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Double DutyCougar, based in Burling-ton, Ontario, is making a splash for spring with the addition of waterproof women’s styles that can transition to an everyday casual. The collection includes athletic-inspired slip-ons featuring uppers in nubuck, nappa leather and lightweight nylon, with anti-slip rubber outsoles and memory foam insoles. Retailing for $50 to $120, the line will deliver in January/February to boutiques and indepen-dent shoe stores.
Bottoms Up Coinciding with its 10th
anniversary in 2017, Ontario, Calif.-based Alegria is introducing a new unit-bottom series to its sandal collection for spring. The Playa, an
instep-strap style, and the Vista slip-on feature the same arch
support found in Alegria’s signature footbeds, but they are made with a molded polyurethane outsole. The series is available in solid colors and the brand’s signature prints, some dating back to its launch, and retails for $90. Delivery is slated for February to independents and department stores.
Clean LivingNew York-based Geox is doing its part for the environment with the spring ’17 launch of New Do, a unisex shoe that uses a minimal amount of components to reduce waste. Leathers are tanned without heavy metals and treated with natural waxes, while the outsole is made of natural, recyclable rubber. The sole tread even leaves an imprint
reminiscent of the earth. The
athletic-in-spired style is available in six colors and
retails for $180. Delivery is slated for February through specialty stores and independents.
BUZZ
Comfort Launches
Storm ChasersNo need to ruin a pair of pricey shoes next time there’s a down-pour. Japan-based Weather Garments, a new line of water-friend-ly footwear for men, will debut in spring ’17, just in time for April showers. The five-style collection is made from PVC that has the look and feel of genuine leather, and the shoes utilize Vibram outsoles. Included in the offering are classic oxfords with remov-able kilties and double monk straps, detailed with fun color pops. Retailing for $200 to $220, the line will deliver in February to better specialty stores and independents.
8
Alegria
Cougar
leveland
FootNotesFormer model Melania Trump took the Republican National Convention stage in Cleveland last week in high fashion. The first-lady hopeful wore a pair of Christian Louboutin pumps and a Roksanda dress that garnered attention, but it was her controversial speech that made headlines after she was accused of taking lines from Michelle Obama’s 2008 Democratic National Convention address.
FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 72, NO.24. JULY 25, 2016. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published weekly (except for the first week in July, second week in December, third week in January and April, fourth week in May, September and December, fifth week in February, August and October) by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-963-7335, or e-mail customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. One-year subscription price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149, foreign $295. Single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliver-able, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of a new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a sub-scription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FOOTWEAR NEWS, 475 5th Ave, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail [email protected]. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. FOOTWEAR NEWS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITE ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.
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