In thIs Issue · Guild Member and Baker, Bouchon Bakery, New York, NY the DNA of BakinG I recently...

Volume 22 – Issue 3 fall 2014

In thIs Issue 2 Notes from the Chair

4 The DNA of Baking 2014 Theory of Sourdough Nothing but the Whole Grain Classic Pastries for Today’s Patisserie The Science of Baking

16 Guild News Partners in Mission Award Scholarship Essay Excerpts

18 Regional Events Petaluma and Norwich Guildhall Gatherings

20 Guild-Wide Bakery Open House

31 Bakery Management A Bakery Owner Looks Back

32 Technical Article The Bell Curve of Baking The Magic of Sourdough

The Bread Bakers Guild of America is the leading American educational resource for artisan bread bakers. Our mission: to shape the knowledge and skills of the artisan baking community through education. Bread Lines, the newsletter of The Bread Bakers Guild of America, is published four times per year.

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Pastry Chef Adir Michaeli demonstrates how to make Chocolate Babka at Breads Bakery, New York, NY.

SATURDAY – june 21

The FOURTh AnnUAl GUild-Wide BAkeRy Open hOUse WAs held On JUne 21, 2014. ThiRTy-nine GUild BAkeRies in 25 Us sTATes And TWO CAnAdiAn pROvinCes Opened TheiR dOORs TO The pUBliC On ThAT dAy.

The Bakery Open House was the inspiration of then-Board member Richard Miscovich and was conceived as a way to bring communities to their bakeries and spotlight local artisan bread. It debuted in 2011 and since then has become a popular annual event that gives local residents a rare opportunity to see where and how their bread is made.

Watch the eNewsletter in the spring for details about the Fifth Annual Guild-Wide Bakery Open House!

Page 20

{ 2 } t h e b r e a d b a k e r s g u i l d o f a m e r i c a

A couple of months ago I walked by the office and printing studio of St. Hieronymous Press in Berkeley, CA. There were two rooms connected by an open doorway. One was dark and mystical. The other was well-lit and full of old but beau-tiful and immaculate printing machines. Blanketing the upper edge of every wall in the room were posters that immedi-ately grabbed my attention. I noticed the style, all clearly from the same artist, and thought to myself, “That looks like the style of the Chez Panisse birthday posters and book covers, and The Acme Bread Company poster!” Upon further examina-tion, I saw those exact same posters on the walls, among many others. This was so cool and exciting! I slowly kept walking, realizing I had just stumbled across the print shop that printed all of those.

A gentleman taking a break outside of the printing room noticed my curious behavior and sensed my interest. He invited me to go through the open door to take a peek. Stumbling upon the place was an unexpected treat on its own, and yet the experience was just starting to unfold.

He followed me in from the outside and said, “You know, there’s a famous artist in the other room,” jokingly adding, “Don’t feed him!” Into the room I went and met the artist himself, David Lance Goines. If you do a quick Internet search for that name, you will see that he is an iconic poster artist who has been working in Berkeley for over 40 years.

All of this happened before either of the two men had any clue about who I was, what my name was, what I did for a living, etc. They didn’t pre-judge me or assume anything. They didn’t give any indication that I was wasting their time but rather made me feel as if I could stay and chat as long as I wanted.

Once we got to the introductions, we found out we shared a common interest. One of them had cooked at Chez Panisse for 15 years, and they both were avid home bakers. Mr. Goines explained to me that he started doing posters for Peet’s Coffee in the 1960s when they opened their original location a few blocks away, and that led to posters for Mr. Espresso, Chez Panisse, Acme Bread, etc. His signature style is recognizable in all of the work he has done.

We got into a conversation about flour, bread, gluten-free, and just food in general. It was a memorable experience, and it probably unfolded in about 10 minutes or less.

I’m telling this story because I think it is a good example. If you don’t take the time to appreciate what is right in front of you, you may let a potentially great experience pass right by.

I manage the sale of flour for a living. I regularly walk into bakeries, sometimes unannounced, to see if there is a relationship to be had. Sometimes I get a warm welcome, and other times I barely get acknowledged. In the worst cases I get treated like I am worth no more than the dirt under my feet, instantly relegated to having no value - a used car salesman trying to move a lemon. Why? No reason other than one word, “sales.” I’ve been judged after barely being given a chance to introduce myself.

I’ve been in your shoes. I’ve been on both sides of the coin. I know what it’s like to feel as though the day will never end and there is always more to do than time to do it. I get it, but I also believe that you never know what encounter lies ahead if you don’t take the time to allow it to happen. What feels like the busiest day of your life could turn into the best day in recent memory.

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notes from the chair

If you think about it, we are all in sales. Life is about sharing what we have to offer each other. Titles define only what we do, but in no way do they define the depth of who we are and certainly not our value in the world or to each other.

If I had never slowed down to take a peek in the shop, I would have no story to tell. If David Goines had never taken a few seconds just to say hello, that magical mo-ment never would have happened for me. Perhaps he felt the same. I wonder how many of those moments we have missed out on because we were just too busy.

Slow down, take a breath, and embrace the present.

jeff yankellowBoard Chair

b r e a d l i n e s – f a l l 2 0 1 4 { 3 }

the Bread Bakers Guild of america gratefully recognizes its

2013-2015 fundraising partners for their generosity.

Platinum Partner ($120,000)

General Mills, Inc.

Gold Partner ($60,000)

King Arthur Flour Co.

Silver Partner ($36,000)

Central Milling Company

Lesaffre Yeast Corporation

Bronze Partner ($18,000)

Ardent Mills

Giusto’s Vita-Grain

copper Partner ($12,000)

Grain Craft

Media affiliates

Bake

Pastry & Baking North America

team alliance ($6,000)

BEMA

Seven Stars Bakery

artisan circle ($3,600)

Acme Bread Company

Albemarle Baking Company

Allied Bakery Equipment Company, Inc.

Amy’s Bread

Eric Baumgartner

Bay State Milling Company

Breadsmith

Chabaso Bakery

Clear Flour Bread

George & Phyllis Enloe

The Esfelds

Grand Central Baking Company

Macrina Bakery & Cafe

Semifreddi’s

Tom Cat Bakery, Inc.

Tree-Top Baking

Z Baking

Zingerman’s Bakehouse

hearth Society ($1,980)

AIB International

Neale and Marian Creamer

Euro Pane Bakery

Lallemand Inc. / American Yeast Division

Niedlov's Breadworks

Izzio Artisan Bakery

couche club ($990-$1,979)

Bennison’s Bakery

David Bergman

Ann F. Burgunder

Frank Carollo

Companion Baking

Dawn Food Products, Inc.

Erika Record, LLC

Jason & Linda Gollan

Grateful Bread Co.

Sandy Kim-Bernards

Dave Krishock

Orlando Baking Company

Michael Rhoads

Standard Baking Co.

Sun Street Breads

Baker’s Bunch ($390-$989)

Alessio Ambruso

Mary Andrews

Anonymous (3)

Bakehouse Bread Company

Jennifer Baker

Frank Basich

Bob Blaske

Carol Brownson

Certified Foods, Inc.

Crossroads Bakeshop

Abram Faber & Christy Timon

Gail Goetsch

Harvey & Nora Hanoian

T h a n k s T o o u r D o n o r s

guild newS

Serenity Farm Bread

Townie Bagels

Victorian Bakery

Cathy Wayne

Jim Zimmerman

Guild friends (Up to $389)

Tim Andrews

Anonymous (3)

George Blanford

Lynne Bowden

Tod Bramble

Andy Clark

Andrew Cooley

Marsha De Angelis

Dewey Doughberman

Eden Valley Bakers

Jessie Foster

Michael Gesik

Rhoda Gordon

Grain Conditioning, Inc.

James W. Hatfield III

John Jordre

Melina Kelson-Podolsky

Patricia Kennedy

Paul Krebs

John and Laura Kvasnosky

Neil Levy

Larry Lobe

Joan McConville

Benjamin Miller

Richard Miscovich

Murray Hollow Bakers

Barbara Oberlin

Christian Oertel

Barbara A. Oletzke

Harry Peemoeller

Lewis Perlmutter

Peter Reinhart

Sandwich Isle Bread Company

Hans van der Maarel

Ken Wilcox

Kevin Williams


Bykirsten sunderman Guild Member and Baker, Bouchon Bakery, New York, NY

the DNA of BakinG

I recently had the opportunity to take the Theory of Sourdough Breads class given in New York City by Amy Scherber of Amy’s Bread. It was a two-day class with students ranging from bread enthusiasts to professional bakers.

The first day started with a tour of Tom Cat Bakery, located near Amy’s Bread’s production facility. James Rath was our guide around the enormous bakery. James was very gracious and willing to answer all the questions thrown his way while he showed us every step of the process. I found it greatly beneficial and interesting to see different bakery setups and work flows. I was particularly interested to learn that Tom Cat Bakery refreshes its liquid levain three times a day because so much bread is produced there. Further, because I am always concerned with keeping myself informed about technology in the field of bread baking, I was very excited to have the opportunity to observe

machinery that I was not even aware existed. At the end of this illuminating tour, James sent us all on our way with a few different loaves of sourdough bread.

Next, we headed to Amy’s production facility. A wonderful lunch had been prepared for us, and as we enjoyed it, Amy gave an informal lecture about the science of sourdoughs, along with an overview of her own production. She let the discussion follow the students’ lead. She also had some of her starters out for us to taste and smell. In all the time I’d spent in my life baking bread professionally, I had never actually tasted a starter, and was somewhat surprised by the practice. But Amy responded with something that makes perfect sense – she told us that we shouldn’t be putting anything in our bread that doesn’t taste good. We ended this first day with mixing a dough that needed a longer fermentation time. We also started a rye culture and a white flour with

organic raisins culture and let it sit out so we could observe it the next day.

The second day we got a tour of the Amy’s Bread bakery. It was interesting to compare it to what I had seen at Tom Cat, as well as other bakeries I’ve seen or have worked in before. I noted that she has completely separated pastry and bread.

We spent most of the second day in production. We mixed our other doughs and got hands-on whenever we could. Everybody was very eager to get their hands into the dough. Amy showed us a few different mixing methods, including an autolyse. As our doughs became ready, each student had the opportunity to shape a couple of each type of loaf. We did different shapes for each dough, with Amy providing demonstrations for each shape and encouraging us to be creative. When the dough was ready, we fired it in one of the deck ovens. We took turns

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theory of sourdough breadsTasting Your Starter:

Amy Scherber (left) with Theory of Sourdough class members – minus Oliver Levis, who took the photo.

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Dividing the Country Sourdough.

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the DNA of BakinG

theory ofsourdouGh Breads

JUNE 9 – 10

hosted ByAmy’s Bread & Tomcat Bakery

Long Island City, NYLana McDonnell – Liaison

instructorAmy Scherber

2014

Amy Scherber demonstrates stenciling of boules before baking.

loading and scoring the bread, and we each did our own stenciled bread as well. After the baking was finished, we had a wrap-up talk and asked our final questions. I took home two big bags of bread we made in class.

The class was a significantly enlightening and enriching experience, and I want to thank the Bread Bakers Guild for the bench scholarship. I also wish to thank Chef Elwyn Boyles for giving me his reference for my application. Without the scholarship, I would not have been

able to take the class. I would like to thank James Rath and Tom Cat Bakery for being so welcoming to the group, and I thank my classmates for making the experience positive. I really enjoyed talking and discussing bread with them. Finally, I’d like to thank Amy Scherber and her crew, especially Alejandro. Amy was truly wonderful – very knowledgeable and a great person to teach the class. Her crew was incredibly helpful and welcoming as well. ✹

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Students produced this selection of breads on the second day of class.

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Learning to shape a large boule.


the DNA of BakinG

ProceSS – Walnut Raisin BreadPreferment LevainMixing Type of mixer Spiral 1st speed 0:02– 0:03

Fermentation Length of time 24:00 Temperature 42°F

final DoughMixing Type of mixer Spiral 1st speed 0:05 2nd speed 0:02 Autolyse 0:15 1st speed 0:01 2nd speed 0:01–0:03 Dough temp. 78°F

Fermentation Length of time 2:00–3:00, up to 8 if retarded Temperature 75°F–78°F

Shaping Divide 525 g for loaves, 65 g for rolls Preshape Balls Resting time 0:15 Shape Various Proofing device Couch, basket, or board

Proof & Bake Final proof time 1:00–2:00 Temperature 78°F Oven type Deck Steam 20 sec Total bake 0:20–0:45 Temperature 450°F

walnut raisin breadcontriButed By Amy Scherber

notes: Add the raisins and nuts after the 1st speed mix following the autolyse.

This delicious bread is great paired with cheeses or toasted for breakfast. We toast our walnuts beforehand for a fuller flavor and added crunch. The plump raisins add a richness to this dough.

*Hard red spring wheat (12.5%–12.9% protein) †Hard red spring wheat (14.0%–14.4% protein) ‡Red or white with at least 12% protein **Same composition as the levain

6

TOTAL FORMuLA LevAin FinAL DOughingredients % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms

Total Flour 100.00 3.965 100.00 0.340 100.00 3.625

Bread Flour* 51.33 2.035 100.00 0.340 46.76 1.695

High-Gluten Flour† 22.70 0.900 24.83 0.900

Whole Wheat Fine Flour‡ 25.97 1.030 28.41 1.030

Water 92.80 3.680 49.95 0.170 96.83 3.510

Kosher Salt 2.62 0.104 2.87 0.104

Fresh Yeast 0.68 0.027 0.74 0.027

Walnuts 25.97 1.030 28.41 1.030

Thompson Raisins 25.97 1.030 28.41 1.030

Starter** 4.29 0.170 49.95 0.170

Levain 18.77 0.680

Totals 252.34 10.006 199.89 0.680 276.04 10.006

Total Flour Fermented in Levain 8.58%

Bread Flour 16.72%

High-Gluten Flour 0.00%

Total Dough Weight 10.006 kg Whole Wheat Flour 0.00%

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Amy Scherber explains the importance of understanding the goals when shaping different loaves.

Shaping a miche.

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sprouting the seeds offered an excellent opportunity to provide nutrition; certainly, the sprouted seeds delivered added nutritional value. The white Khorasan allowed additional lightness in the crumb, making it an excellent transitional bread for customers who want to move from refined to 100% whole grain breads.

Mike discussed the increasing awareness of the need to reduce phytic acid in whole grains through sprouting or acidifying the grain. The Khorasan Stirato utilized only a very small amount of sourdough starter, literally, a piece of Mike’s matured

“mother” starter, not a build of sponges before adding to the final dough side. This possibly limited full potential nutritional benefit, depending on actual dough pH level, which we did not measure.

Mike explained that a levain fermentation method has not achieved the desired volume and crumb with this loaf. He emphasized repeatedly to us: one needs to stay practical with bread baking and be realistic about what “works.” The

Byjan schat Guild Member and Professional Artisan Baker, Corte Madera, CA

Mike Zakowski’s high-level artisan whole grain baking methods class, with Nicky Giusto’s valuable input on milling, was also a lesson on an alternative food economy. The entire two-day class demonstrated the importance Mike places on knowing his food, beginning with a studied selection of ingredients. Where and how his ingredients are grown is almost as important as the various processes of combining, preparing, fermenting, and baking these fantastically flavorful and aesthetically pleasing breads.

I’d like to discuss these ingredients, particularly the fermentable ones, along with some view of the class discussions these prompted, how this all might apply to our bakery, and finally offer an account of the recipes and process methods that Mike demonstrated.

Khorasan wheat, an ancient ancestor of modern wheat, was used in three forms: whole grain flour, white flour and even as sprouted Khorasan seeds, ground into a paste, for the Khorasan Stirato formula. Using the entire grain and

aroma and pleasantly earthy flavor of this bread was amazing, a real pleasure to eat, despite being the bread with almost the simplest ingredient list.

Higher extraction Types 70 and 110 wheat flour, whole wheat white flour, along with whole buckwheat flour, were used in the Aeplznuts loaf. A hard Northern California organic Gravenstein apple cider that is naturally fermented in oak barrels and bottled (with a cork in an old-fashioned bottle) by Mike and some friends added an unusual dimension to this loaf. Through many versions of this bread, Mike found that he had to reduce the proportion of total apple cider as dough hydrator, since it appeared to affect fermentation negatively at too high a level. Also, cider changed over time and added to the intrigue. The flavor of the cider was distinct in the loaf at the current level, however. Other ingredients in the Aeplznuts included the cider as syrup, toasted walnuts, and a dark roasted mesquite powder – a bold but balanced addition. But Mike is a blending baker, choosing to think creatively about combinations of ingredients that may or may not be typically combined but that could be complementary. He then spends a considerable amount of time experimenting with proportions and

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nothing butthe whole grain nothinG But the

whole Grain

july 26 – 27

hosted ByCentral Milling /Keith Giusto

Bakery Supply, Petaluma, CANicky Giusto – Liaison

instructorMike Zakowski

2014

the DNA of BakinG

Some of the class members pose with the instructor. Front row, left to right: Andrew Austin, Lorrette Patzwald, Mike Zakowski, MC Farine. Back row, left to right: Elena Kuhn, Jan Schat (author of this article), Shawn Kearns, Isabela Moraes.


CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Mike Zakowski and Nicky Giusto.

Aeplz Bread. Khorasan Stirato.

fermentation. I believe this practice of blending can result in some crazy and not-too-successful breads if the baker is not experienced and does not have excellent wider food knowledge. It is generally not advisable for beginning bakers to go this route themselves until fermentation methods and foods are mastered. That said, Mike has done the work for us here, and following his formula and process can result in successful outcomes, especially for the experienced baker. The balance required between all these ingredients, influenced by the fermentation methods chosen in this case, using levain, poolish, and a small amount of mature mother starter, is considerable. We were all quite impressed with this treat of a bread.

The Sprouted Emmer loaf employed the white Khorasan and Type 110 flour, along with emmer (stone-milled fresh by Nicky Giusto in the bakery during class), sprouted emmer seeds ground into a paste, and white Riesling grape seed flour. The nutritional potential from this bread is very high, especially with the use of sprouted emmer and acidity levels achieved from the emmer levain and

additional fermentation from poolish and bulk fermentation. The high percentage of fermented flours, sometimes as much as 40%, was especially interesting. The choice of flours and grain sources assured incredibly complex aroma and flavor. The emmer, grape seed flour, and Khorasan themselves also bring unique levels of certain minerals and antioxidants to the bread.

Mike began Day One by placing two large bottles of chilled beer on the bench, which had me hopeful, but alas, were destined for the Pain à la Bière (Saison) dough. Mike’s evolution in the development of this bread has him currently preferring an oatmeal stout. The choice of beers is well-thought-out and a significant contributor to accommodating the complex ingredient list for this loaf. The beer styles preferred – Saison (seasonal), a farmhouse pale ale, or a stout – all have their fermentation methods but tend to be flavorful, sometimes fruity or even spicy. Again, higher extraction flours Types 70 and 110 were called for, along with very attractive purple barley flour grown in neighboring

Mendocino County. Cracked purple barley and smoked malted barley (also sprouted and therefore highly nutritious), were soaked overnight, allowing for slow enzymatic activity and production of organic acids that contribute to complex flavors later on in the bread.

An additional dough using four different types of flour – types 70 and 110, whole wheat that has been whole milled, and Red Fife – had been mixed two days prior with a hint of commercial yeast. After some bulk fermentation at ambient temperature, it was refrigerated for two days and used by Mike and Nicky that evening for small flatbreads at the Guildhall Gathering. This dough was removed from the refrigerator several hours ahead of use, allowed to move up in temperature, and divided into small rounds. After a rest, it was flattened, topped, and baked at 600°F for a few minutes. The dough had become quite extensible from this process but remained active, with enough elasticity to perform well in the hot oven.

The final bread we made was soft-dough pan bread made with 100% einkorn that had a small soaker of sesame and sunflower seeds. It was leavened with a sourdough culture and worked on the bench during scaling with water instead of flour. The pieces were quickly and efficiently moulded-up before being placed in oat-bran covered, cast iron bread pans, final proofed at ambient temperature, scored, and baked. This was my personal favorite, perhaps because of its simplicity of ingredients and its 100% whole grain composition.

A quick aside about salt: The salt Mike uses covers a variety of origins and mineral profiles. One’s choice of salt can have a significant and interesting impact on final bread flavor, and in fact, the choice of salt could be influenced by your specific bread profile. Salt may not really be just salt and, as with every ingredient, deserves thoughtful consideration, especially given the variable mineral profiles among types of salt.

The fermentation methods used in these breads, all have their basic characteristics enlivened by the choice of flours and

the DNA of BakinGP

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grains. Commercially yeasted poolish with the prevalence of lactic acids, levain with a bit more acetic acid development, and soakers all represent a conscious choice for Mike, both in properly leavening his formula and imparting flavors specific to the ingredient combinations in the breads. Note that the levain in each recipe utilizes a very low percentage of starter inoculation, which, with whole grains and flours that are “alive,” is critical to avoid over-fermentation and excessive acidity in the 12–hour cycle preferred. With the whole flours, especially, it became clear that taking the poolish and levains slightly early was also critical. On Day Two my team had the Sprouted Emmer to make up. It was decided that the poolish could ferment too much, given the 16 hours before use; Mike’s experience told him they needed to be slightly young for best oven spring and loaf volume. We used a bit under 1% salt in the poolish to control fermentation but the next day noticed it was still a bit over-fermented. We did indeed have trouble with loaf volume, although that could also have been attributed to our inferior hand mixing and folding or perhaps a too-loose final shaping. It was not as easy as it looked when Mike made these breads! Additional bulk fermentation is required for all the doughs, and temperatures between 73–76°F are preferred.

Hand mixing was the only method used during this class and is employed exclusively in Mike’s business. This has many benefits, including less energy use and lower capital costs. It avoids excessive dough oxidation, which also improves flavor, and fits into the alternative food economy that is part and parcel of Mike’s philosophy: low environmental impact, local ingredients, local limited sales, maximum flavor, no waste. The dry flours were first blended by hand. Liquid was added, holding 10% back to add later, once the dough consistency was evaluated. Mixing was mostly an incorporation of ingredients, with a little gluten development occurring. There were subsequent, multiple folds at 15 minute intervals. The dough was kept in the unoiled tub and folded in one direction 4–6 times. Adjustments were made as

to total folds upon assessment of dough development and so should be seen as potentially variable. Mike’s folding technique was fluid and efficient. After the folding was accomplished, the dough was allowed to bulk ferment an hour or more before scaling.

Assessing dough development using whole flours is different than when using refined flours. One indication that we’ve relied on, the

“baker’s window,” is less relevant with whole grain doughs, or at least different-looking. It is still relevant to assess the balance between dough elasticity, extensibility, and gas retention ability by pulling and stretching the dough, but achieving a large, translucent baker’s window is not necessarily correct, reliable, or even obtainable in many cases. Aside from the visual exterior dough assessment, Mike also likes to look into the dough to assess gas formation level and dispersal by cutting a long slice across the dough in the tub at about an inch depth, spreading this open slightly to observe it.

Pre-shaping is conducted gently, retaining gasses. Final shaping is specific to the desired final shape and intention, the fendu requiring a bit more tightness than a scored bâtard, for example. Mike’s serious emphasis on the final aesthetic attributes of the loaf is unlike the casual “rustic” appearance often found in artisan loaves. His highly detailed shaping, scoring, topping, and stenciling were quite impressive.

A final comment on the application of Mike’s sourcing tactics, philosophy, and baking methods for a fairly large production bakery: it is possible, desirable, and necessary, if we honestly consider the medium and long-term interests of sustainable agricultural practices, as well as the spirit and tradition of artisan bread baking. We must also consider our core customers, who are increasingly educated, environmentally conscious, and therefore selective in their bread

the DNA of BakinG

FROM TOP: Mike adding oatmeal stout to the poolish. Hand-mixing the beer bread dough.

Beer bread dough ready for dividing.

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the DNA of BakinG

ProceSS – Pain à la Bière (Saison)Preferments Levain Poolish SoakerMixing Type of mixer Hand Hand Hand Length of time Until incorporated Until incorporated Until incorporated Fermentation Length of time 12:00–14:00 12:00–14:00 12:00 Temperature Room Room Room

final DoughMixing Type of mixer Hand Mix style Short Dough temp 73°F–75°F

Fermentation Length of time 3:00 Temperature Room number of folds 7 Timing for folds 0:15

Shaping Divide 620 kg Preshape Boule Resting time 0:20 Shape Bâtard Proofing device Couche

Proof & bake Final proof time 2:00 Temperature Room Oven type Deck Stencil Hops Scoring Outline of hops Steam 2 sec Total bake 0:36–0:40 Temperature 475°F Damper open Last 0:10

purchases. For small artisan bakeries, any and all of Mike’s ingredients, depending on your geographical location, formulas, and methods are applicable. However, if you are part of a large artisan bakery, as I am, the most relevant application of this class is the opportunity and responsibility we have to influence millers and growers toward sustainable agricultural practices. Currently, in the US there is a battle being waged around the future of wheat. A large artisan bakery needs to insist on continuing to use GMO-free ingredients, engage local smaller millers and growers through contract growing of select alternative varieties, and pursue sustainable practices. And while it may be seen as naïve to expect to influence Big Ag, the scale of ingredient use by the totality of small artisan bakeries in the USA needs large artisan bakeries’ scaled support. This is the most relevant application of Mike’s philosophy of baking, which inspires me to continue the battle with mainstream wheat suppliers from a large artisan bakery perspective.

In summary, the use of high-quality, local, and sustainable ingredients drive the basis for Mike’s breads in this class and in his business. Additionally, the combination of ingredients and the appropriate fermentation process to bring forward flavor, nutrition, and aesthetics is thoughtfully determined and is based on experience, trial and error, and broad food knowledge. Above all, practical considerations both in production of these breads and selection of ingredients must be considered, so that the model is sustainable and the breads attractive to the customer. Mike feels it is his responsibility as the local baker to provide breads for the body and spirit that will sustain his customers and the environment well into the future. I believe I can speak for all the students in saying that we appreciated his philosophy and practice of whole grain bread baking by the end of the two-day session. ✹

Mike Zakowski, The Bejkr, at work.

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Pain À la biÈre (saison)contriButed By Mike Zakowski

This “Freestyle Bread of My Country,” developed by Mike Zakowski for the Bakery Masters competition, features Saison-style beer and purple barley from Ukiah, California, as well as Type 70 and Type 110 flours. The toasted purple barley and smoked malted barley complement and enhance the flavor of the beer. A pinch of cracked pink peppercorn adds yet another layer of flavor without being overpowering.

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*Stone milled †100% Whole wheat flour, 70% water, 3% starter

TOTAL FORMuLA LevAin POOLiSh SOAkeR FinAL DOughingredients % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms

Total Flour 100.00 3.501 100.00 0.473 100.00 1.103 100.00 0.350 100.00 1.926

Type 70 Flour 60.00 2.101 100.00 0.210 76.19 0.840 54.55 1.050

Type 110 Flour 25.00 0.875 23.81 0.263 31.82 0.613

Purple Barley Flour* 15.00 0.525 55.56 0.263 13.64 0.263

Water 72.00 2.521 100.00 0.473 100.00 1.103 49.09 0.945

Saison Beer 20.00 0.700 36.36 0.700

Salt 2.10 0.074 3.82 0.074

Instant Yeast 0.02 0.00055 0.05 0.00055

Cracked Pink Peppercorn 0.10 0.004 0.18 0.004

Cracked Purple Barley 5.00 0.175 100.00 0.175

Smoked Malted Barley 5.00 0.175 100.00 0.175

Saison Beer 10.00 0.350 100.00 0.350

Starter† 0.40 0.014 3.00 0.014

Levain 49.85 0.960

Poolish 114.57 2.206

Soaker 36.36 0.700

Totals 214.62 7.514 203.00 0.960 200.05 2.206 300.00 0.700 390.25 7.514

Total Flour Total Flour Total Flour Fermented in Levain 13.50% Fermented in Poolish 31.50% Prefermented 45.00%

Type 70 Flour 10.00% Type 70 Flour 40.00% Type 70 Flour 50.00%

Type 110 Flour 30.00% Type 110 Flour 30.00%

Total Dough Weight 7.514 kg Purple Barley Flour 50.00% Purple Barley Flour 50.00%

Pain À la BiÈre (SaiSon)


ABOVE: Instructor John Kraus pipes Paris-Brest cream (hazelnut paste, pastry cream, buttercream) into baked choux. TOP RIGHT: Litchi Baba.

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facility liaison, we heard about John Kraus’s culinary background. We then jumped right into a demonstration of the Gibassier, which is a luxuriously fatty (lots of butter with a healthy dose of olive oil) enriched dough, with accents of orange blossom water, anise, and candied orange peel. John’s assistant, Andrew, retarded the dough, and then we moved right on to the rustic Basque Cake. The dough for this pastry cream-filled cake was chilled overnight for easier handling and rolling out the next morning. Next up was the kouign amann détrempe, which was a weak and soft dough. It would gain strength the next day after its three folds. John then mixed the Paris-Brest choux crumble, rolled it out thin between a silpat and sheet of parchment, froze it, and then made the corresponding Paris-Brest choux dough, which is cooked on the stove and finished in a mixer by adding eggs singly. He immediately piped this dough into 2”–3” rounds, took out the frozen crumble and cut disks to fit choux, and topped each one. John baked them in an initially hot oven with a closed vent, later lowering the temperature and opening the vent. Before the class broke for lunch, we had the final task of folding the Gibassier for its overnight rest in the refrigerator.

In the afternoon our next task was group work and mixing our own doughs (each group took on two mixes). John then made the Paris-Brest caramel topping, the Litchi Baba gelatin and syrup, and the Exotic Tart sweet dough. After this, he set us to work on a few more components. We wrapped up the day by watching the final demo of a few of the parts that

ByreBecca yarwood & daisy chow Guild Members and Bakers – Rebecca at Bread Craft in Roanoke, VA, and Daisy at Clear Flour Bread in Brookline, MA

In a production bakery almost nothing is made start-to-finish in one day. Some components are made one day for the next. Some need to be baked, frozen, or refrigerated ahead of time. It’s scheduled chaos to fit everything in: you are always working on more than one thing and trying to keep track of what needs to be done and when, so that it all comes together in the end. Timing. Baking is all about timing.

The Classic Pastries for Today’s Patisserie class taught by John Kraus was no exception to this. Fitting all nine different items that were taught into a two-day class was tricky but successful.

After an introduction to General Mills and class logistics by Bill Weekley, our

I

the DNA of BakinG

comprise the Fraisier: pistachio dacquoise, pistachio crumble, and strawberry gelée.

The second day started with an assortment of pastries John brought from his bakery, Patisserie 46. When we were finished sampling those, we moved on to making our own pastries.

John started by showing us how to shape and cut the Gibassier using a modified bowl scraper. The orange- and anise-flavored pastries were brushed with butter and rolled in sugar after they were baked.

Then we learned how to laminate and shape the kouign amann. This was the only application where salted butter was used. The result was a pastry that left you satisfied, yet still craving more, which is probably why these pastries sell so well.

The Basque Cake dough was rolled out and lined in a ring mould. We then filled the mould with Basque Cream and topped it with a circle of the dough so that the cream was completely encased in the crust. After baking, the cake could be dusted with confectioner’s sugar or brushed with apricot glaze.

The afternoon flew by as we completed everything we had started the day before. We finished the Paris-Brest by filling

classic Pastries fortoday’s Patisserie

b r e a d l i n e s – f a l l 2 0 1 4 { 1 3 }

classic pastries for today’s patisserie

august 9 – 10

hosted ByGeneral Mills

Minneapolis, MN Bill Weekley – Liaison

instructorJohn Kraus

2014

the DNA of BakinG

it with caramel and hazelnut cream. Both the tarts had streusel toppings; however, the Rustic Berry Tart was baked with the streusel on it, and the Exotic Tart had the streusel baked separately and added on top of a passion fruit purée and sautéed bananas.

The Baba dough was baked in a glass verrine and then soaked with the litchi syrup and topped with vanilla mascarpone cream, raspberries and cubes of litchi gelée.

One item that was made entirely on the second day was the Chocolate Pound Cake. This wasn’t a pound cake for non-chocolate lovers. The cocoa powder and grated chocolate was enhanced by coffee in the batter. In addition to that, the cake was topped with a chocolate hazelnut crumble before being baked. John observed that he sells more slices of pound cake than whole cakes. However, after tasting this cake, it’s hard to imagine not buying a whole one.

The class wound down with all of the students packing up boxes of delicious baked goods and walking out with new knowledge.

Just as there are always unexpected interruptions in a production schedule, so too there are interruptions in a baking class. Some questions might take longer to answer, or someone else might be using the equipment you need. But despite any interruptions in the scheduled flow, the products always get done, as if the universe is expanding and contracting time to only allow you just what you need to finish. ✹

LEFT: Students Patrice Halbach and Christopher MacLeodwork on Paris-Brest. BELOW: Kouign Amann. CENTER LEFT: Kouign Amann in rings. CENTER RIGHT: Paris-Brest: pâte au choux with thinly rolled out crumb topping. BOTTOM: John Kraus trims tart shells

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daisy chowMulti-part pastries can seem time-consuming and overwhelming. However, with a little planning, they can be broken down into smaller projects that can be made in advance. For instance, the Litchi Baba is basically an assembly of a yeasted cake, syrup, gelée, and cream. The simple syrup can be made and cooled days in advance. The gelée and English vanilla cream both need to be cold for the gelatin to set, so these, too, should be made prior to assembly. So all that's left to worry about is the baba dough, which is proofed, baked, and soaked in the already- prepared syrup. It's just a matter of a simple assembly if your mise is ready.

This class opened my eyes to modern twists on products I'd read about (old school baba au rhum evolving into litchi baba), everyday products than can be gussied up (rich chocolate pound cake with a crunchy crumble topping), delicious and simple pastries (Basque cake – no additional decorations other than some fork etchings and egg wash on the top layer and filled with a baked cream), and kouign amann, my Holy Grail. I've eaten many kouign amann but have never seen it made. I had a few “aha” moments when I watched John Kraus laminate with all of that sugar, and when he prepared the dough for the rings. I enjoyed watching and producing the items on our list. At Clear Flour Bread we have very little space for displaying refrigerated pastries, so those will probably not hit our production list anytime soon, but I could easily see the Basque Cake, Chocolate Pound Cake, and kouign amann fitting into our schedules and making their way into customers' stomachs.

rebecca YarwoodOne of the most beneficial things about taking a hands-on class is seeing the specific techniques of the instructor. Not only do you get the formulas but you also get to see them executed the way they are supposed to be. In class, if your product doesn't come out the way it should, you have immediate access to the instructor for troubleshooting the problem.

After taking this class, I feel confident in introducing some of the items into production at Bread Craft. Both the Rustic Berry and the Exotic Tart, along with the Basque Cake, would be a good addition to our repertoire, as we currently don't make any large pastries. Also, the Litchi Baba and the Paris-Brest weren't difficult and would add another dimension to our pastry offerings.

the DNA of BakinG

An assortment of pastries from the class.

Clockwise starting from top left:

Rustic Berry Tart Gibassier

Kouign Amann Paris-Brest

Large Kouign Amann Frasier

Litchi Baba Chocolate Pound Cake

Basque CakeExotic Tart

TOP TO BOTTOM: Brushing melted butter on Gibassier. John Kraus tops Litchi Baba with Vanilla Mascarpone Cream Litchi Baba scaled and proofing in glass verrine.

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b r e a d l i n e s – f a l l 2 0 1 4 { 1 5 }

ProceSS – Chocolate Pound Cakefinal DoughMixing Type of mixer Planetary with paddle attachment

Bake Temperature 350°F Oven type Convection Total bake 1:00

chocolate Pound caKecontriButed By John Kraus

miX instructions for crumBle: In a food processor, process all ingredi-

ents except butter into a fine powder.: Place the powder in a mixer with a

paddle attachment, add the butter, and mix until the dough comes together.

: Chill dough until firm.: Press the chilled dough through a large

mesh sifter, cooling grid, or meat grinder.

miX instructions for cake: Bring all ingredients to room

temperature.: Sift dry ingredients (flour, baking powder,

and cocoa powder) together and reserve.: Mix water and instant coffee and reserve.: Cream butter and sugar in a mixer fitted

with a paddle attachment until light and fluffy.

: Add eggs slowly, beating to combine thoroughly.

: Add buttermilk and vanilla to coffee.: Add reserved ingredients in multiple

additions, alternating wet and dry.: Fold in grated baking chocolate.

makeup: Prepare three loaf pans by greasing and

lining with parchment.: Pour the cake batter into the prepared

pans (166 g per cake).: Top with crumble.

This classic chocolate pound cake has the added surprise of a crunchy topping.

the DNA of BakinG

crUMBle

*A mixture of hard and soft wheats (9–12% protein) †Cacao Barry Extra Brut, 100% cacao, 23% fat

Total Weight 0.498 kg

TOTAL FORMuLAingredients % kilograms

Demerara Sugar 150.00 0.150

AP Flour* 100.00 0.100

Roasted Hazelnuts 120.00 0.120

Cocoa Powder† 22.00 0.022

Baking Soda 0.85 0.00085

Orange Zest 1.50 0.00150

Unsalted Butter, Cold 104.00 0.104

Totals 394.35 0.498

cake Batter

*A mixture of hard and soft wheats (9–12% protein) †Cacao Barry Extra Brut, 100% Cacao, 23% fat ‡Cacao Barry Grand Caraque, 100% cacao, 53% fat, 53% Cocoa butter **See Crumble formula

Total Weight 3.135 kg

TOTAL FORMuLAingredients % kilograms

AP Flour* 100.00 0.450

Baking Powder 0.67 0.003

Cocoa Powder† 23.33 0.105

Salt 2.00 0.009

Water 21.33 0.096

Instant Coffee 1.33 0.006

Unsalted Butter 126.67 0.570

Sugar 200.00 0.900

Egg 106.67 0.480

Buttermilk 78.00 0.351

Vanilla Extract 3.33 0.015

Baking Chocolate, Grated‡ 33.33 0.150

Totals 696.67 3.135Crumble** All of the formula below

FROM LEFT: John Kraus spreads White Chocolate Mousse on Pistachio Daquoise. Basque Cake.

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Webinar Reaches Guild Members Near and Far

the science of baKing – Practical aPPlications

on the topics that included history, ingredients, and process.

Lee used Legos to illustrate the structure of the two starches, amylose and amylopectin, found in flour. Andrew helped us “dig down under the hood” by explaining FODMAPS, as they may be more responsible for the symptoms of non-celiac gluten intolerance than the originally perceived culprit (gluten). The presentation was truly enjoyable because they played well off each other and only varied slightly in opinion when it came to pronouncing a few words.

ByBrittny stephenson ohr Guild Member, and R&D Manager, Sugar Food, Atlanta, GA

For the first time ever, The Guild offered a webinar on August 2, 2014. The Science of Baking – Practical Applications attracted a total of 46 people to log-in for the class. The attendees were from six different countries, 26 US states, and three Canadian provinces. It was a clear reminder that the world is smaller than ever before, thanks to technology.

Presenters Lee Glass and Andrew Ross had a great synergy throughout the presentation. Seamlessly, they transitioned back and forth as we moved through the slides, each able to speak knowledgeably

F

the science of BakinG – practical

applications

august 23

Webinar

presentersLee Glass & Andrew Ross

2014

the DNA of BakinG

One of the best aspects of the webinar, is that it can be viewed afterward. This is a great option, since the material presented was detailed and a lot to comprehend fully after two-hour lecture. The insights shared are important for any baker, because as Lee stated, “In the end, bread baking is both an art and a science, and the baker can be more successful in practicing his or her art with a background knowledge of the science that underlies baking.” ✹

the Guild’s mission - To shape the knowledge and skill of the artisan baking community through education – is shared and advanced by the efforts of bakery owners, serious home bakers, baking educators, millers, farmers, equipment manufacturers, ingredients manufacturers and more.

It is supported by generous donations of time and money from companies and individuals, many of whom work diligently through the night to produce bread that nourishes the body while pleasing the senses.

to honor the extraordinary efforts of some of these heroes and recognize their

contributions, the Guild has created a new award, the Partners in Mission Award.

At Wheatstalk on september 19, it was our pleasure to present the first Partners in Mission Award to the san Francisco Baking Institute for its long-standing determination to support and educate our artisan baking community.

We thank sFBI and its team of passionate instructors, past and present, and most especially Michel suas, a giant in our baking community, for their advocacy and development of the craft of artisan baking since 1996. ✹

First Partners in Mission Award Presented to SFBIBy andy clark Guild Board Member and Chief Operating Officer, Izzio Artisan Bakery, Denver, CO

Michel Suas accepted the award, a laser engraved peel, on behalf of SFBI.

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b r e a d l i n e s – f a l l 2 0 1 4 { 1 7 }

Scholarship Essay ExcerptsC l A s s i C pA s T R i e s FO R T O d Ay ’ s pAT i s s e R i e

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d A i s y C h O W Clear Flour Bread – Brookline, MAWhat do you hope to gain from the class?I am mainly a bread baker and have a very basic knowl-edge of the pastry world. I laminate and shape croissants once a week, with a limited selection of shapes and fillings. It would be interesting and eye-opening to see how to do much more with pastries. I hope to learn more hand shap-ing techniques and ideas that can be possibly shared with bread doughs. Our customers know us for our bread and pastries, and I would like to spark some new interest in our repeat customers. the bakery has a number of classic favorites, but I am looking forward to seeing what varia-tions are possible. I am also hoping to recharge my interest in baking, just by being around other motivated bakers. every BBGA event I have attended always reminds me how exciting it is to be a baker right now and how lucky I am to have discovered this line of work. there is only so far one can go with working from cookbooks, and I have learned that seeing things in person and having a tactile sense and memory of doughs leaves a more permanent impression on me. I want to learn more to do more. I know that both the bakery and I could benefit.

how will you share your knowledge with your colleagues when you return?I will take plenty of photos and detailed notes on the class to bring back to work, which should get my colleagues excited. then I will attempt to recreate some of the products that we made in class. I am often in charge of showing the ropes and formulas to newer bakers. Of course, not everything will be totally replicable, so some aspects may have to be adapted to our bakery, ingredients, equipment, and even to our clientele, but at least there will be fresh new ideas tossed into the daily routine. new products could be introduced as daily specials and incorporated into the production schedule. I have found that one of my favorite aspects of being a baker at a small bakery is that I can get instant feedback from co-workers and customers while tweaking a new item. I definitely want to share my enthusiasm that I have for baking with my co-workers. Our bakers know how to make pastry cream, pâte à choux, and even laminate, but teaching them to make kouign amann, baba au rhum, and other products we will make in this class will easily extend the product possibilities. so not only would I bring back new products to share with my co-workers but also inspiration and skills that can be built upon what our bakers already know.

R e B e C C A yA R W O O d Bread Craft – Roanoke, VAWhat do you hope to gain from the class? I hope to gain a more diverse knowledge of the pastries being covered in the class. the bakery where I work does produce some of the pastries listed on the class flyer; however, I enjoy learning different methods of producing products. I hope to gain more efficient methods and a greater knowledge base of the products that I am familiar with. In addition, there are a number of pastries listed for the class that we do not produce. I hope to gain enough knowledge from the class to implement some of those products in the future. I also hope to gain from the experience of meeting other professionals and “talking shop.” I seldom get an opportunity to get away from the bakery and learn from others in the field.

how will you share your knowledge with your colleagues when you return?Bread Craft is moving to a different location this fall. Once we are in the new space, we are going to expand our pastry offerings. At that time I will be responsible for the pastry department. We will be hiring additional people to work in that department as well. If I were to take the Classic Pastries for today’s Patisserie class, I would be able to share the knowledge I acquire with the new staff.

We also do a lot of cross-training of employees at Bread Craft. I would be able to share my knowledge with the other staff as well. In addition to our staff, we often host interns from the culinary department of our local community college, as well as members of the general public who are interested in learning more about baking. We try to share our knowledge with anyone who is interested. Participating in this class would provide me with more knowledge to share.

guild newS

Daisy Chow Rebecca Yarwood


petalumaGuildhall Gathering july 26, 2014hoSteD By :: central MillinG/ keith

GiUSto Bakery SUPPly

PetalUMa, ca

nicky GiUSto :: liaiSon

regional eventS

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b r e a d l i n e s – f a l l 2 0 1 4 { 1 9 }

norwichGuildhall Gathering july 11, 2014hoSteD By :: kinG arthUr floUr

norwich, vt

SUSan Miller :: liaiSon

regional eventS

1 Left to right: Host Nicky Giusto, Isabela Moraes, Mike Zakowski, and Jo Ann Ong. 2 Mike Zakowski and Nicky Giusto made pizzettas topped with zucchini and lemon. 3 Arielle Segal prepares salads for the Guildhall Gathering. 4 John Pramuk, Andrew Austin, and Dave Crew sample the refreshments, which, in keeping with the class topic, had a whole-grain theme. 5 An assortment of breads made at the “Nothing But the Whole Grain” class. 6 About 25 Guild members and their guests attended the Petaluma event. 7 Lobby, Central Milling/Keith Giusto Bakery Supply, Petaluma, CA.

RIGHT: François Danielo, second from left, was one of the more than 20 people who attended the Norwich

Guildhall Gathering at the King Arthur Flour Company. BELOW: Lively conversations about baking always

take place when Guild members get together.

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Gracious BakeryNew Orleans, LA

“We had quite the challenging open house – our convection oven died at 6:20 am, and we lost a bunch of product. We managed to get it back up and running by 8, but it was rough! We had a good series of tours pass through – five groups of about 5-10 people each. A lot of great folks interested in the baking process.”

– Megan Forman

la Farm BakeryCary, NC

“Our Bakery Open House was absolutely wonderful! We had about 60 people in attendance. Lionel demonstrated mixing and shaping techniques to the guests. Some even tried their hand at shaping baguettes, boules, epi, and more. We gave them a tour of the bakery and also did a bread tasting where they got to sample a variety of our breads made with locally grown and milled North Carolina flours.”

– Rachel Siegel

Macrina Bakery & CaféSeattle, WA

“Our showing for the Bakery Open house was made up of content brunch customers and loyal bread fans, but by far, our favorite visitor was Chuck, 4 months old. We like to start our bread enthusiasts young!” – Leslie Mackie

Orange Boot BakeryRegina, SK

“The highlight for us was the opening of our new patio outside the bakery. We also handed out samples of our new from-scratch iced teas and lemonade.

“Cindy ran two tours, where we talked about the tools we can't live without, from our big dough sheeter to the small cutters and scales and scoops. We also gave advice on where to pick up tools that fit the home baker.

enjoyed the festivities. We had tours of the bake shop, samples, including bread, cheesecake, and a variety of muffins. The live music really added to the ambience. It was another great open house! Thanks to The Bread Bakers Guild of America!”

– Pat Gleason

Cake Rack BakeryCovington, KY

“The open house was nice. The customers who came were treated to bite-size sweets, bread samples, and iced tea. The demo included a white bread recipe that is great for sandwiches, French toast, or any type of grilled cheese sandwiches. …Overall, we were very happy to open the doors of the bakery to the community.”

– Jeannette Werle

Cornerstone Bread CompanyIndianapolis, IN

“We had over 200 attendees, live music, and plenty of bread and pastries to sample. We partnered with Yelp to have a bread baking lesson for people who signed up in advance.”

– Cindy Helmling

CRUsTFenton, MI

“We all had such a good time with this event. Mike Green led two tours of the bakery, which were very well-attended. We had production demonstrations going on in our pastry and bread kitchens and offered samples outside on the sidewalk. While we host other community open houses during the year, I enjoy this particular open house because of its association with the BBGA. We really have the opportunity to highlight the artisan principles and practices behind making high-quality baked goods, and I think it’s so important the public know about the educational background of our bakers and the commitment it takes to work in handcraft bakeries like CRUST.”

– Holly Nachtigal

Bennison’s Bakery Evanston, IL

“We had a very successful open house, with over 100 visitors… Moving the date back to this time of year was definitely a good move!”

– Jory Downer

BreadfarmEdison, WA

“The Open House was great! People get so excited to come in the back door and learn about what we do. Both Scott and I love seeing their enthusi-asm for our craft. We’re happy to have participated again.”

– Renee Bourgault

Breads BakeryNew York, NY

“Our Open House went very well! We had over 50 participants for our tours, flour and fermentation discussions, and demos of focaccia and chocolate babka.” – Kelly Jacques

Bus stop Coffee shopMilwaukee, WI

“Our Bakery Open House was really a nice event. We attracted many new patrons, and all of our regulars also

2014 bakery oPen hoUSe

b r e a d l i n e s – f a l l 2 0 1 4 { 2 1 }


2 0 1 4Participating Bakeries

Artisan’s Bakery & Café Portsmouth, VA

Beaufort Bread Company Lady’s Island, SC

Bennison’s Bakery Evanston, IL

Big Cypress Bakery Fort White, FL

Black Rooster Bakery Fort Worth, TX

Blue Baker – Austin Austin, TX

Blue Baker – College station College Station, TX

Breadfarm Bow, WA

Breads Bakery New York, NY

Brio Breadworks Arcata, CA

Bus stop Coffee shop Milwaukee, WI

Cake Rack Bakery Covington, KY

Clear Flour Bread Brookline, MA

Continental Bakery Birmingham, AL

Cornerstone Bread Company Indianapolis, IN

Crust Fenton, MI

dakota harvest Bakers Grand Forks, ND

evergrain Bread Company Chestertown, MD

easy Tiger Bake shop and Beer Garden Austin, TX

Floriole Café & Bakery Chicago, IL

Gracious Bakery New Orleans, LA

katieMade Springfield, MO

la Farm Bakery Cary, NC

Macrina Bakery & Café Seattle, WA

Messenger pizza nampa Nampa, ID

O Bread Bakery Shelburne, VT

Old school Bakery Colorado Springs, CO

Old village Bakery North Conway, NH

Orange Boot Bakery Regina, SK

panhandle Artisan Bread Co. Moscow, ID

patisserie 46 Minneapolis, MN

patisserie vero Beach Vero Beach, FL

scratch Baking Company South Portland, ME

sixteen Bricks Artisan Bakehouse Cincinnati, OH

something natural Nantucket, MA

standard Baking Company Portland, ME

village Bakery Montour Falls, NY

Wild Flour Bakery Banff, AB

“Both tours were a huge success. One dear old couple asked our front crew to come get them from the patio for the tour – they were pretending they were back at their favourite cafe in Paris!” – Mark Dyck

patisserie 46Minneapolis, MN

“This year we had an even better turnout than previous years! I never knew we had so many Guild members here in Minnesota. It was wonderful to show them around and talk shop. We made greater connections with members of the community. …All in all, it was a great experience, and I hope to leave our doors wide open for The Guild and community for years to come!” – Marc Levy

something naturalNantucket, MA

“We toured 50 or 60 people, many of them long-time customers who have always wondered how we produce so many cookies and loaves of bread. It was a great experience. A movie documentary producer filmed the tour, offering it for our website for free. Glad we were involved.”

– Matt Fee

Brio BreadworksArcata, CA

“Our family had a wonderful time at Brio Breadworks! We were warmly welcomed and given a tour. My mechanically-minded son was fascinated by the deck oven and loader, and my math-minded daughter was curious about the whiteboard with time and temperature notations. We left Brio with four delicious breads: a Seeded Baguette, a Sour French Loaf, a Focaccia, and my favorite – a scrumptious Italian Brioche with currants, dried apricot, and crystallized ginger.” – Jill Valavanis


1 Bread lovers gather at the 4th Annual Bakery Open House, Breadfarm, Edison WA. 2 Scott Mangold, owner and head baker at Breadfarm, handed out warm demi-baguettes to visitors.

... edison, WA

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... new york, ny

1 An assortment of flours and leaveners for the flour and fermentation discussion, alongside some finished products for tasting: sourdough baguette, French sourdough, 100% Rye, croissant, and Chocolate Babka. 2 Pastry Chef Adir Michaeli demonstrates how to make Chocolate Babka.

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b r e a d l i n e s – f a l l 2 0 1 4 { 2 3 }

... Arcata, CA

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1 Guild staff member Jill Valavanis outside Brio Breadworks. 2 Four kinds of Brio bread. Clockwise from top left: focaccia, Italian brioche, sourdough, and seeded baguette.

... Milwaukee, Wi

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1 Live music at the Bakery Open House was provided by Xalaat Africa. Musician Yaya Kambaye from Senegal, West Africa, played a string instrument called a kora. 2 Young visitors watching bread rise in the proofer. 3 Drumming on the street in front of the bakery attracted customers.

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... indianapolis, in

1 Head Baker Luis Contreras teaches a pastry-shaping technique to visitors. 2 Partnering with Yelp attracted additional attendees.

3 Cornerstone packers Paula Wells and Adrian Helmling-Cornell offered samples of breads. 4 A young oven operator in training. 5 Trinidad

Tooke explains how Cornerstone Bread makes its croutons.

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... Fenton, Mi

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1 Visitors are always happy to try samples of Crust’s products at the Bakery Open House. 2 The chalkboard on June 21 announced the open house and tours. 3 A good crowd of people attended Crust’s open house. 4 Whitney Lawson finishes pain au chocolat. 5 Bakers Chay Sayles (left) and Anabell Waterfield scoop cookie dough. 6 Mike Green, Executive Baker, led tours of the production facility.

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... Grand Forks, nd

here in eastern north dakota there is a very large norwegian and scandinavian population, many of whom are one or two generations away from the Old Country. This is a hearty rye bread “like nana used to make.”

dakota harvest Bakers norwegian Rye Contributed by George Kelley

ProceSS – Dakota Harvest Bakers Norwegian RyePreferment LevainMixing Type of mixer Hand Mix time Until incorporation

Fermentation Length of time 12:00–16:00 Temperature Room

final DoughMixing Type of mixer Spiral 1st speed See process notes 2nd speed See process notes

Fermentation Length of time 1:00–1:30 Temperature 80°F– 84°F number of folds 1 Timing for folds 1:00

Shaping Divide 1 kg Shape Blunt bâtard Proofing device Wooden board and loader

Proof & Bake Final proof time 0:40–0:45 Temperature 80°F– 84°F Oven type Deck Scoring 3 deep, diagonal slashes Steam 0:15 Total bake 0:25– 0:28 Temperature 430°F

levain: Combine the levain ingredients the day

before and let ferment at least 12 hours.: Water temperature should be 105°F.: Do not over mix to minimize gluten

development.

DoUGh: Combine the dry ingredients before

adding the levain and water. The water should be 115°F.

: Mix on speed 1 is until a shaggy mass develops.

: Mix on speed 2 is until gluten develops adding flour and water to adjust hydration until dough clears the sides.

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ShaPinG: The initial shape should be

a 12-inch blunt bâtard, with the final length around 14 to 16 inches after handling.

: No pre-shape is necessary, just divide, shape, and place on proofer boards.

ProofinG: Proof for 30 minutes on

proofing boards, then transfer to a well-floured loader to finish rise and recover from the transfer.

: Do not over proof or the loaves will collapse. This final rise should be about 10 minutes after transfer to loader.

Dakota harveSt BakerS norweGian rye

*Hard red spring wheat (12.5% protein) †Equal parts patent flour, light rye flour, and water


Total Flour 100.00 5.800 100.00 1.000 100.00 4.800

Patent Flour* 68.97 4.000 83.33 4.000

Medium Rye Flour 13.79 0.800 16.67 0.800

Whole Wheat Flour 8.62 0.500 50.00 0.500

Pumpernickel Flour 8.62 0.500 50.00 0.500

Water 60.34 3.500 150.00 1.500 41.67 2.000

Kosher Salt 1.72 0.100 2.08 0.100

Active Dry Yeast 1.03 0.060 1.25 0.060

Rye Groats 8.62 0.500 50.00 0.500

Light Brown Sugar 6.90 0.400

Caraway Seeds 0.86 0.050

Starter † 6.90 0.400 40.00 0.400

Levain 70.83 3.400

Totals 186.37 10.810 340.00 3.400 225.20 10.810


Whole Wheat Flour 100.00%

Total Dough Weight 10.810 kg Pumpernickel Flour 100.00%


b r e a d l i n e s – f a l l 2 0 1 4 { 2 7 }

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1 Missy Vatinet conducting a bread tasting. She is showing visitors how to squeeze and smell the bread to release and appreciate its wonderful aroma. 2 Lionel Vatinet scaling flour for Country French dough. 3 David Celis unloads flatbreads from La Farm Bakery’s new Miwe oven. 4 Nicholas Owen discusses the variety of breads the bakery makes on a daily basis. 5 Lionel Vatinet demonstrating different shaping techniques - rolls, baguettes, bâtards – for Open House guests. 6 An assortment of breads and spreads for Bakery Open House guests to taste; Multigrain, Asiago Parmesan, 100% Carolina Ground Whole Wheat, and Mélange Boule.

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... seattle, WA

1 Macrina’s youngest visitor, Chuck, and his dad, Jeff, prepare to take the open house tour. His mom, Cathe, later wrote,

“We had a great time touring the Macrina SODO bakery last Saturday. Our 4 month old couldn’t stop babbling about it.” 2 Leslie Mackie greets visitors at Macrina’s tour. 3 Macrina bakers shape loaves of Sour White Ficelle. 4 Leslie with racks of freshly baked breads.

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Tangy yogurt and cucumber are combined into a Greek-inspired bread that may just transport you to the island of Crete.

Tzatziki Bread Contributed by Katie Kring

... springfield, MO

ProceSS – Tzatziki BreadPreferment SoakerMixing Type of mixer Hand Length of time Until incorporation

Fermentation Length of time 1:00 Temperature Room

final DoughMixing Type of mixer Planetary Mix style Short 1st speed 0:04–0:05 Rest 0:04–0:05 1st speed 0:04–0:05 Dough temp 76°F

Fermentation Length of time 24:00 Temperature 40°F

Shaping Divide 680 g Preshape Log Resting time 0:10 Shape Bâtard Proofing device Greased, parchment-lined baking sheets

Proof & Bake Temperature 40°F Final proof time 1:00 Temperature RoomMakeup garnish Egg wash after approx. 0:45 of proofing Oven type Convection Total bake 00:25– 00:30 Temperature 350°F

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Guild members Dave Powell (left) and Dean Christensen (center) with Patisserie 46 head baker, Marc Levy.

... Minneapolis, Mn

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tzatziki BreaD

*Hard winter wheat (14.2% protein) †Frozen and thawed with juice included‡Hot

**50% egg, 50% water

Total Dough Weight 14.280 kg

TOTAL FORMuLA SOAkeR FinAL DOughingredients % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms

High-Gluten Bread Flour* 100.00 7.515 100.00 7.515

Water 31.01 2.330 31.01 2.330

Salt 2.13 0.160 2.13 0.160

Instant Yeast 1.74 0.131 1.74 0.131

Shredded Cucumber† 18.60 1.398 18.60 1.398

Whole Milk Plain Yogurt 12.40 0.932 12.40 0.932

Soaker Water ‡ 12.40 0.932 200.00 0.932

Freeze-Dried Onion Flakes 6.20 0.466 100.00 0.466

Brown Sugar 4.72 0.355 4.72 0.355

Garlic Powder 0.55 0.041 0.55 0.041

Dried Dill Weed 0.27 0.020 0.27 0.020

Soaker 18.60 1.398

Totals 190.02 14.280 300.00 1.398 190.02 14.280Egg Wash** As Needed As Needed



... nantucket, MA

1 & 2 Around 60 people attended the open house at Something Natural Bakery and Sandwich Shop at 50 Cliff Road. Many of their long-time customers said that they had always wondered how the bakery produced so many cookies, sandwiches, and loaves of bread. 3 Scott Ewing, Kitchen Manager at Something Natural, dressed as a blue whale to greet tour participants.

Montour Falls, ny ...

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1 Open house sign at Village Bakery. 2 Head Baker Frank VanVolkinburg explains the different products you can make with the same dough. 3 The class put together Cherry Kringle using their multipurpose dough.

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b r e a d l i n e s – f a l l 2 0 1 4 { 3 1 }

bakery ManaGeMent

what i learneD froM exPanDinG My BUSineSSdeciding to expand from a single location to multiple locations was an incredibly difficult decision.

i used to live above the original flour bakery. if something wasn’t right, i knew about it immediately and spent all my waking hours downstairs making sure everything was running the way i wanted it to. for better or worse, i had my hand in everything.

we decided to open a second location to create growth opportunities for some longtime employees. we also wanted to give our guests another flour because we were outgrowing our original location, and the biggest complaint was lack of seating and long lines.

while i knew it was the right step, i struggled with the lack of control that resulted in running two businesses. i would spend time at one loca-tion and fret about the other; i wanted to know exactly what was going on at all times with every single thing. what i eventually learned from opening a second location, however, is what has allowed us to continue to grow since. every management book out there tells you to hire the right people and then trust them to do the job you hired them to do.

i had to learn this lesson fast because i couldn’t be in two places at once. i made sure to hire strong people who understood our mission and lived and breathed it like i do, and then i learned to give them the structure and systems to do their jobs well, along with the freedom to make changes and decisions as needed for each particular situation.

it’s worked so far… we’re at four locations and counting, and i no longer

fret (as much) about every single little thing. ✹

GivinG UP yoUr DreaM iS a BaD BUSineSS Planbefore i started flour bakery + café, i sought help through a program in which you met with seasoned business executives who volunteered to look at business plans for potential new business owners.

it was a great program, and i got a lot of good advice…except for one dud.

after studying my plan, the executive looked at the financials of my dream bakery and told me to take the money i was planning to invest in my own place, invest it in a solid mutual fund, and go find a more lucrative and less risky career path.

he meant well, but what he didn’t realize was that nothing was going to stop me from “throwing my money away,” as he called it, to pursue my dream.

once he figured that out, he just shook his head and said, “honey, you better be sure you have a backup plan if it doesn’t work.”

now that was great advice, and i made sure i had one. i’m just glad i didn’t have to

fall back on it. ✹

A Bakery Owner Looks BackBy joanne chanG

guild member and owner

flour bakery + cafe

boston, ma

Joanne Chang is a Guild

member and the owner

of Flour Bakery + Café in

Boston, MA. She recently

wrote a series of business-

related blog posts for

the Wall Street Journal,

www.wsj.com. Two of

them are reprinted here

by permission.


I am often asked about how best to troubleshoot the problems we face in the production of artisan bread. this in itself is a complex request because there are many steps that must be followed to achieve a predictable outcome. Also, what one baker may claim to be a flaw in a finished loaf of bread, another might purposely aim to achieve the same characteristics. so through the process of listening and learning, talking and teaching, I have devised an unscientific way of explaining how to achieve your own desired goals and troubleshoot some of the problems that you might face in the production of artisan bread. I purposely state “artisan bread,” because I mean to imply that we are using basic ingredients without the addition of enzymes or chemicals that are not already present in the raw ingredients or developed naturally during the process. some of the modern day additives can both increase strength or decrease strength in our bread dough and alter our results.

Most problems in the production of bread occur between the ingredient and the final proof stage. this article does not apply to the baking stage. Many times the problems we face are a result of the dough being too weak, lacking volume or proper crumb structure, or the dough being too strong so that it doesn’t mould easily and also has poor crumb structure. By visualizing the bread’s life span made

up of several stages, each stage having its own effect on the overall final product, we can begin thinking about the ways in which we can strengthen or soften/weaken our dough by making the proper adjustments with the tools we have available.

the Bell Curve theory helps us to visualize some of the stages in the bread’s life span and how they come together and interact with one another. It also helps to discern where in the process you are and how to modify your process to achieve the desired results.

some of the factors that affect the bell curve are flour, water, acid, mixing, and fermentation. the Bell Curve theory can be applied to many aspects of bread baking.

flour Flour from wheat is the most commonly used flour in our profession, and in this very flour we can see the Bell Curve alive and well. Wheat flour contains two proteins that combine together to create gluten. the glutenin protein is responsible for the elasticity of our bread; it is the protein that resists stretching. the gliadin protein is what gives our loaves extensibility; it is the protein that allows our loaves to be stretched. too much extensibility or too much elasticity is a bad thing. We want our flour and dough to have a good balance between the two.

water It takes water to activate the gluten-forming proteins in flour. An inadequate amount of water in dough can result in the proteins not being fully hydrated and not allowing the dough to develop properly during mixing and fermenting. think about biscuits or scones and how crumbly they can be. We artisan bakers typically play on the other side of the curve. We often add exorbitant amounts of water to our breads, resulting in weaker dough. We often make up for this weakness with folds and a longer bulk fermentation period, as well as the development of acids from preferments or starters.

acid Lactic acid and acetic acid are both by-products of fermentation. the acids can both help condition the proteins in our bread for strength but also begin to break them down if not controlled. I am giving acid its own category because acids can exist in a loaf of bread that is not actually fermenting. For example: a loaf of sourdough that is held in the retarder at a cold temperature where the yeast is no longer active continues to build acidity.

mixing the Bell Curve might be most easily understood or applied in the mixing process. We have all probably seen an under-mixed dough and the results. the

By

michael eggebrecht

Guild Member and President of Artisan Baking Resources, stevenson, WAThe Bell CURve OF BAkinG

technical article

b r e a d l i n e s – f a l l 2 0 1 4 { 3 3 }

dough is not combined well and doesn’t contain the gluten development to hold the gasses produced from fermentation. We artisan bakers often do this on purpose because we plan to ferment our dough a long time and even give folds to the dough during the process, which adds strength.

On the other side of the equation is the dough that has been over-mixed and is also weak because the gluten has been degraded from over-processing or mixing. this weak dough has crossed over the top of the curve where we would have the most strength and finished mixing on the right side of the Bell Curve in the weak area.

Folding or Turning the doughthis is a subcategory of mixing. this in reality is mixing, but it is typically drawn out over the bulk fermentation stage. If the dough is under-mixed, additional strength can be achieved through one or more folds. the goal of folding is to bring the correct amount of strength to the dough in a slower process than mixing and to avoid oxidizing the dough. It is possible to “over fold” a dough, which can cause it to be bucky or excessively strong.

fermentation

Again, the Bell Curve can easily be applied to fermentation. We have all seen young or under-fermented dough that lacks body and is a little flat after shaping. the cause might have been that the

dough temperature is too cool or just has not had enough fermentation. either way, these loaves lack development and have less volume.

At the top of the Bell Curve of Fermentation we have the dough that has a lot of strength. We typically do not ferment to this point unless we are compensating for weaknesses caused in other areas, for example, an excess amount of water.

On the opposite side of the curve, we have over-fermented dough. Again, these loaves will show signs of weakness through lack of volume. this problem could have arisen from too warm a dough temperature, or too much fermentation time, or simply too much yeast in our formula.

combining all components in the process

now that we have pointed out some of the key components of the process involved in bread baking, let’s discuss how they interact with one another and give a few examples.

Ciabatta is a common bread made by most of us these days, or at least understood to be a highly hydrated bread dough with a very open crumb. Ciabatta is made with a lot of water and is typically fermented for 2-3 hours and many times given folds during the fermentation. By applying the concept that the addition

of the extra water weakens the dough, we understand that we need to build strength in other areas to compensate for this weakness. We typically mix a moderate amount and then do a long bulk fermentation while folding the dough. this, in turn, gives us dough with enough structure to support the weakening effects of the excess water.

On the opposite side are the American hard rolls or Kaiser Rolls. We would typically mix these breads/rolls a lot more and reduce the overall fermentation. these changes in the process, along with the reduction in water compared to a ciabatta dough, result in a different dough altogether, but one that has the proper amount of strength for the desired end product. the hard roll typically gets its strength from more yeast and more mixing but not from a long fermentation. If we were to add in lengthy bulk fermentation to the process, we would end up with an excessively strong dough that would tear during moulding, with the possibility of the finished product being too round and tall.

When you are troubleshooting problems in your own bakery, try to analyze if the problems are caused by a lack of strength or too much. If you find that your dough is weak, determine which side of the Bell Curve you are on and decide how to compensate. If you find that some of your issues are due to an excessive amount of strength, then decide how to lower the strength in the individual stage or pro-cess or use another stage in the process to compensate. For example, if you have too much strength due to a high-protein flour, you might decide to mix very little and add more water; both would result in weakening the dough. I have used these techniques over the years and have found them very useful in solving problems quickly. I hope that you can apply these as well in your own bakery. ✹

technical article

the bell curve of baking

strong

weakweaknot

enoughtoo

much


technical article

When I started baking about 17 years ago, sourdough caught my fascination almost immediately. I had started off with instant yeast, then quickly moved on to this mysterious and captivating naturally fermenting substance, though the actual end-product, the bread, admittedly left something to be desired at this early stage. I wanted to grab the micro-organisms that seemed to be present in the very air I breathed, nurture them, and then conjure a loaf.

But “grabbing” these organisms in air turned out to be one of the myths associated with the substance. Sourdough is like magic, since it’s created with just flour and water, yet because the microbes can’t be seen by the eye, it’s also subject to tall kitchen tales, as I discovered, researching my recent book, In Search of the Perfect Loaf: A Home Baker’s Odyssey.

Sourdough is made up of wild yeast and bacteria and is among the oldest of grain fermentation methods (there is a lively debate about whether beer came before bread, though the weight of evidence seems to point to beer). The various ways a natural leaven can be used is covered in many bread baking books, but most don’t go very far in explaining what sourdough actually is. The more I looked, especially among scientific papers, the more surprised I was.

Sourdough is perhaps the most local of local foods. Each fermentation culture is unique, reflecting the particular flour, feeding regimen, and micro-climate of your kitchen or bakery. Change any of those factors, and the substance will change as well.

One study of 19 Italian sourdough cultures gathered from bakeries showed that none

shared the same precise mix of organisms. Another study found that cultures change when moved from one setting to another. This undermined the romantic notion of keeping a culture alive for years, decades, even centuries, and passing it on, so that it spreads out, multiplies, but maintains its original essence. It also undermined the notion “San Francisco sourdough,” which was once traced to the bacteria, Lactobacillus sanfranciscensis, that turns out to be one of most prevalent in sourdough starters globally – not just in San Francisco.

Where do the microbiota actually come from? The science shows that the organisms need to travel on some kind of agent – saliva, juice, insects, skin, fruit, grain, even feces – but eventually they can become established in a starter and the microclimate of a bakery, and then, yes, they can be found in the air.

Yeasts, a fungi, are ubiquitous, with over 1,500 species identified thus far, with more genetic diversity than all of the vertebrate species in the world. At least 23 yeast species have been found in sour-doughs. Saccharomyces cerevisiae – the same species used in brewing and wine making – is most common, though usu-ally one or two others, such as Candida humilis, take up residence as well. But even among same yeast species, there is vast genetic variation, so Saccharomyces cerevisiae found in commercial baker’s yeast will differ from the related strain likely thriving in your sourdough.

Saccharomyces cerevisiae is also naturally found on grapes, which is one reason that grape must, or juice, has been recom-mended in starters since Roman antiquity. One recently investigated vector for this yeast was wasp colonies, since queens

harbor yeast in their intestines during the dormant winter and then spread them to their progeny the following the year. The wasps peck at the ripe fruit in the summer, transferring yeast to the grapes when they pierce the fruit’s skin. One study found that the intestinal yeast of wasps varied seasonally, but Saccharomyces cerevisiae was most prevalent right at the time of the grape harvest. The yeast found in the innards of these Tuscan wasps also matched the strains found in Tuscan wine and baker’s yeast.

Scientists are also starting to tease out the origins of Lactobacillus bacteria found in sourdough. They have found strong evidence that they originate in the bowels of various animals and from there, migrate into flour or dough. One study found that Lactobacillus reuteri in a rye sourdough matched a strain found in rodents. Another Lactobacillus species in wheat sourdough was identical to one found in the human intestine. Still others strains mirrored those found in the vagina. But lactobacilli are far more prevalent in pigs, mice, chickens, and rats than in humans. Michael Gänzle, an authority on sourdough at the University of Alberta, who co-authored the groundbreaking study on the intestinal origin of Lactobacilli, told me that rodents likely infect the grain at the farm, mill, or bakery and then end up in your sourdough. Or they may arise, as one paper put it, from

“fecal contamination in the sourdough production environment.”

What all this suggests is that the microbes that ferment our bread dough are diverse and numerous, adapted to the micro-climates of our homes and bake rooms and our particular feeding regimes. One starter is not necessarily better than another – just different, which is why as craftsmen we must work with our unique starters to shape our own loaves. ✹

Samuel Fromartz is author of In Search of the Perfect Loaf: A Home Baker’s Odyssey (Viking: Sept. 2014), where a longer version of this essay appears.

the

of SoUrDoUGh

MAGiC[and Science]

By Samuel Fromartz

Guild Member, journalist, and serious home baker, Washington, D.C.

b r e a d l i n e s – f a l l 2 0 1 4 { 3 5 }

technical article

noteS: Add starter, 425 g water, and

combined flours, and mix with moistened hand until the dough is shaggy, around 2 minutes.

: Make indentation on top of dough, add salt plus about half the remaining water (12.5 g), so salt hydrates.

: Autolyse for 30 minutes. : Mix the moistened salt into the dough.

Fold the edges of the dough toward the center 12 times.

: Turn over, cover, and let sit for 20 minutes.

: Add remaining 12.5 g of water during the second fold.

: After rest, fold one more time. If dough still looks weak after the three folding periods, perform another fold.

: If retarding, let the dough rise for 1 more hour and then refrigerate for 12 hours.

: Bake with steam in a 460°F oven for 30 minutes, reducing the heat to 420°F for another 10 minutes until crust is mahogany colored.

ProceSS – Pain de CampagnePreferment LevainMixing Type of mixer Hand

Fermentation Length of time 8:00 - 10:00 Temperature Room

final DoughMixing Type of mixer Hand Mix style Fold and rest – see Process Notes Autolyse 0:30 Dough temp 75°F

Fermentation Length of time Until doubled Temperature Room number of folds 3 Timing for folds 0:20

Shaping Divide 600 g Preshape Round Resting time 0:20 Shape Boule or bâtard

Proof & Bake Final proof time 1:15-1:30 Temperature Room Oven type Home electric Scoring Bâtards: one slash down the top, angled slightly off the bias Round loaves: square pattern Steam Yes – ⅔ cup boiling water Total bake 0:40 Temperature 460°F for 0:30 then 420°

Pain de Campagne Contributed by Sam Fromartz

i’ve been making Pain de Campagne as a home baker since the late 1990s, altering the formula slightly depending on the variety of grain i have on hand. lately, i’ve been mixing whole wheat, rye, buckwheat, and white flour. the addition of buckwheat, from a local farmer in Maryland who grows and mills it, adds a slightly nutty taste to the loaf and noticeably darkens the crust to a mahogany color. this version has become a home staple.

Pain De coMPaGne

*11.0%–11.7% protein †Same composition as levain


Bread Flour 9.82%

Total Dough Weight 1.223 kg Whole Wheat Flour 43.24%


Total Flour 100.00 0.692 100.00 0.091 100.00 0.600

White Flour* 67.36 0.466 50.00 0.046 70.00 0.420

Whole Wheat Flour 15.29 0.106 50.00 0.046 10.00 0.060

Whole Rye Flour 8.68 0.060 10.00 0.060

Whole Buckwheat Flout 8.68 0.060 10.00 0.060

Water 1 71.38 0.494 75.00 0.069 70.83 0.425

Water 2 3.62 0.025 4.17 0.025

Salt 1.82 0.013 2.10 0.013

Starter† 2.64 0.018 20.00 0.018

Levain 26.67 0.160

Final Dough Subtotal 203.77 1.223

Excess Levain 0.018

Totals 179.47 1.241 195.00 0.178 1.241

: If loaves give a distinctive hollow sound when knocked, remove. If not, turn off the oven and keep the loaves in the oven for an additional 5–7 minutes, with door propped open slightly.

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Bread lines Co-editors tod Bramble Laverne Mau Dicker

Bread lines designer Kirsten Finstad

Formula editorsAllen Cohn, Chief editorsandy Kim-Bernards, Assistant editor

Formula Reviewers (Current issue)Ray Glaze John JacobsonLaurie KnueverJerod PfefferPat RothMark Wescott

Contributors Doug AndrewsRenee BourgaultJoanne ChangDaisy ChowAndy ClarkDakota harvest BakersKelly DickerLaverne DickerJory DownerMark DyckMichael eggebrecht

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next issue of Bread Lines!

Jim Valavanisemily VanVolkinburgJeannette WerleRevekah WolfJeff YankellowRebecca Yarwood Mike Zakowski

Board ChairJeff Yankellow

vice Chair Phyllis enloe

Treasurerneale Creamer

Board of directorstod BrambleAndy ClarkMelina Kelson-PodolskyLeslie MackieMichael Rhoadssolveig tofte

director of OperationsCathy Wayne

Administrative AsstJill Valavanis

Tel 707.935.1468 Fax 707.935.1672 [email protected] www.bbga.org

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In thIs Issue · Guild Member and Baker, Bouchon Bakery, New York, NY the DNA of BakinG I recently...

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