Tourist guide of the municipalities

of Bassa Romagna

In the landof fine living

Tourist guide of the municipalities of Bassa RomagnaIn the land of fine living

Romagna solatìa, dolce paese cui regnarono Guidi e Malatesta, cui tenne pure il Passator cortese, re della strada, re della foresta. Giovanni Pascoli

First edition

Printed in April 2011

Map of Bagnacavallo ......................................................Discovering Bagnara di Romagna................................Map of Bagnara di Romagna ........................................Discovering Conselice ...................................................Map of Conselice.............................................................Discovering Cotignola....................................................Map of Cotignola............................................................Discovering Fusignano ..................................................Map of Fusignano ...........................................................Discovering Lugo.............................................................Map of Lugo......................................................................Discovering Massa Lombarda.......................................Map of Massa Lombarda................................................Discovering Russi ............................................................Map of Russi .....................................................................Discovering Sant'Agata sul Santerno ..........................Map of Sant'Agata sul Santerno....................................Gourmet itineraries.........................................................Traditional recipes...........................................................Traditional local produce...............................................Arts and craft itineraries ................................................Natural environment itineraries ...................................

Symbols used in the guide................................................In the "land in between"....................................................A land without borders.....................................................Transport..............................................................................Road distances....................................................................Deep historical roots.........................................................Famous people....................................................................Famous painters..................................................................Fertile land for art...............................................................Reading Bassa Romagna: landscapes of literature......Listening to Bassa Romagna: landscapes of music......Seeing Bassa Romagna: landscapes of cinema..............The culture of fine living...................................................A land of passion and competition.................................An authentic talent for tourism.......................................Tourist Information Centre..............................................Discovering Alfonsine.......................................................Map of Alfonsine................................................................Discovering Bagnacavallo ................................................

· CONTENTS ·

CONTENTS

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· SYMBOLS USED IN THE GUIDE ·

: Leisure and culture office

: Tourist information centre

: General enquiry office for the public

: Municipal secretary

: Weekend

: Visits must be booked in advance

: Places of interest for tourists

SYMBOLS USED IN THE GUIDE

48626670747882869094100114118124128134138142144147150154

in the “land in between”

homes and rural houses. Ancient rural habits are still alive here, in accordance with nature's cycle of seasons. While strolling around town, it is not unusual to come across timeless scenes of life. A group of old and lively card players engrossed in intense competition with their enigmatic faces; a small group of carefree children running around wrapped up in their games. It's nice to take a seat at a tavern under the arcades, in the piazza or in one of the numerous little squares, and soak up the relaxed atmosphere which is typical of this "small universe" in which the frantic and alienating rhythm of modern life hasn't replaced the unflappable cadence of bicycle pedals. Despite this, locals have embraced the positive aspects of modernity such as cutting-edge farming technology, with utmost care for the environment and for the wholesome produce of the land. In this part of Romagna the indissoluble relationship between the land and its people is timeless and utterly authentic.The territory's landscape is suspended between the water, the earth and the sky; the eye can find it difficult to wholly grasp the depth of field of this vast space. In this corner of Italy each season features a variety of different colours in the landscape,

we tried to find an extensive definition for the intense and varied world of Bassa Romagna, we could

describe it as a sort of "land in between" the Adriatic coast and the Apennine. This oasis of peace is full of charm and is surrounded by some of the most beautiful art towns of the Emilia-Romagna region: Ravenna, ancient capital of the Byzantine Empire, Faenza, famous worldwide for its ceramics, Bologna, home to the oldest university in Europe, and Ferrara, cradle of the noble House of Este. Ferrara, the neighbouring Po Delta and Ravenna share the honour of being UNESCO World Heritage sites. Thanks to its favourable position, from here it is easy and quick to get to the vibrant Adriatic Riviera of Romagna, which is, so to speak, "behind the corner". However, Bassa Romagna shouldn't be considered a "land in between" just from the geographical point of view. In this wide and fertile plain dotted with vegetable gardens, vineyards, orchards and waterways, time appears to be floating between past and present. In winter this land is protected by an evocative mist, in summer it is nourished by generous sunshine; the line of the horizon is only broken by the silhouettes of parish churches, stately

If

· IN THE “LaND IN BETwEEN” ·

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including delicate pastel tones as well as dazzling hues; the result is a natural palette that has caught the imagination of more than a few painters over the centuries.This is the place for rediscovering the art of fine living, as well as the local traditions and highlights. This genuine microcosm entices visitors with its warm character and its informality rather than its formality; here it's easy to feel at home because the second time you’ll visit a place, they will already call you by your name.

· in the “land in between” ·

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a landwithout borders

The portion of Romagna known as Bassa Romagna is not marked by real geographical boundaries. This area is identified as the heart of the province of Ravenna, a consortium of municipalities of the following towns: Alfonsine, Bagnacavallo, Bagnara di Romagna, Conselice, Cotignola, Fusignano, Lugo, Massa Lombarda, Russi and Sant'Agata sul Santerno. It stretches across an area of 480 square km and has over 100,000 inhabitants. Bassa Romagna benefits from an excellent transportation system because it's right in the middle of a wide network of roads and railway tracks.

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· A LAND WITHOUT BORDERS ·

Unione dei Comuni della Bassa Romagna

RaVENNaBOLOGNa

RIMINIFORLiÉ

FLORENCE

ROME

VENICEMILaN

· TRANSPORT ·

transport

AIRPORTS

The nearest airports are:

> Bologna - "G. Marconi" Airport www.bologna-airport.it

> Rimini - "F. Fellini" Airport www.riminiairport.com

> Forlì - "L. Ridolfi" Airport www.forliairport.com

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conselice

massalombarda

alfonsine

sant'agatasul santerno

fusignano

bagnacavallo

russibagnaradi romagna cotignola

lugo

trainwww.trenitalia.it

· TRANSPORT ·

Bassa Romagna is crossed by the following railway lines: · Bologna - Ravenna· Rimini - Ravenna · Ferrara - Venice and by rail connections for Faenza and Forlì. The rail network connects the municipalities of Alfonsine, Bagnacavallo, Lugo (+ Voltana), Conselice (+ Lavezzola + San Patrizio) and Russi. Useful phone numbers892021+39 06 68475475 (for calls from outside Italy)For purchasing tickets, getting information on Frecciarossa and Frecciargento rail services or changing a reservation with a customer assistant.

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Useful phone numbers199 892 021 06 3000 (for handsets unable to dial 199 phone numbers)For purchasing tickets through the automated phone system, for information regarding compensation, refunds or claims, for reservation changes through the automated phone system, for timetable information and service updates, to arrange assistance for people with limited mobility.

Useful phone numbers199 30 30 60Customer assistance for people with limited mobility.

alfonsineViale Stazione, 42

To reach the station from the main road SS16 Adriatica, go to the town centre and look out for Viale Stazione; the station is at the bottom of the boulevard and there is a large car park. The station has an automatic ticket machine.

BagnacavalloViale della Stazione

The station is on the main road Strada San Vitale, about 500 mt from the town centre and has a large car park. The station has an automatic ticket machine; tickets can be purchased also from: Hotel Al Flor, in via Chiusa 37 (just few metres from the station), tel. +39 0545 64475 and at Tabaccheria Take and Go, in via Cristofori 4 (near the town gate Porta Superiore), tel. +39 0545 64638.

LugoPiazzale Pascoli, 2

The station is very close to the town centre, about 1 km from the central Piazza Baracca. There is a ticket office, a bar and newsagent; taxis and buses leave from outside the station.

Voltana (Lugo)Viale della Stazione

The station is very close to the town centre and there is a large car park. The station has an automatic ticket machine.

ConseliceVia Roma

The station is very close to the town centre. Tickets can be purchased from: Tabaccheria G.K., in via Garibaldi 11, Tabaccheria Centrale, in via Garibaldi 46, and Tabaccheria Oltrefumo, in via Puntiroli 43.

Lavezzola (Conselice)Viale Ricci

The station has an automatic ticket machine.

San Patrizio (Conselice)Via Ferrovia, 2

Tickets can be purchased from Tabaccheria Rosanna Chersoni, in via G. Mameli 20/22.

RussiVia della Repubblica

The station is about 1 km from the town centre, in the trading estate. The station has an automatic ticket machine.

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· TRANSPORT ·

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busTown buses and suburban buses are run by: A.T.M. Ravenna (tel. 199 199 558 - www.atm.ra.it) ATC (tel. +39 051 290 290 - www.atc.bo.it). Ricci Bus company operates in the municipality of Bagnara (tel. +39 0545 76001 - www.ricci-bus.it).

taxiThe only taxi stand in Bassa Romagna is located just outside Lugo train station (tel. +39 0545 26020).

car and motocycleThe main roads that run across Bassa Romagna are: the motorway Adriatica A14 (Bologna - Taranto), the provincial road no.253 San Vitale which connects Bologna with Ravenna, and the state road no.16 Reale which connects Ferrara with Ravenna. The area has an intricate network of secondary roads that can make journeys longer, but which can also be the best way to enjoy the rural landscape of Bassa Romagna and connect with the land's genius loci.

bicycleFor information about cyclists' itineraries and assistance please contact: Associazione Cicloguide LugoVia Rossetta, 130 - 48012 Bagnacavallo (RA)Tel. +39 0545 58328 / +39 348 7469283 / +39 335 6393000E-mail cicloguidelugo@virgilio.itwww.racine.ra.it/cicloguidelugo/

Cyclists' itineraries in Bassa Romagna can be downloaded from www.romagnadeste.it

places of interestnear bassa romagnaWithin the radius of around 150 km there are several interesting places: Ravenna and the Adriatic Riviera of Romagna on the east, Faenza and Florence on the south, Bologna on the west, Ferrara, the Po Delta and Venice on the north.

· TRANSPORT ·

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· ROAD DISTANCES ·

Alfonsine Bagnacavallo Bagnara Conselice Cotignola Fusignano Lugo Massa Russi Sant'Agatadi Romagna Lombarda sul Santerno

Alfonsine ---

Bagnacavallo 13 ---

di RomagnaBagnara 30 17 ---

Conselice 26 22 19 ---

Cotignola 21 7 12 23 ---

Fusignano 9 9 17 15 13 ---

Lugo 20 7 10 15 8 8 ---

LombardaMassa 31 15 9 11 15 15 8 ---

Russi 20 9 25 31 10 18 16 23 ---

sul SanternoSant'Agata 27 11 8 11 12 12 5 4 20 ---

ROADDISTANCES (KM)

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· DEEP HISTORICaL ROOTS ·

earliest traces of human settlements in the area currently known as Bassa Romagna are really

ancient. Traces of a Neolithic settlement (5th millennium B.C.) were found nearby Lugo; archaeological findings from the late Bronze Age were uncovered around Bagnacavallo and two inhumation tombs (late 7th century - early 6th century B.C.) were unearthed under the surface of the Roman Villa in Russi. There is plenty of evidence that the human presence has been continuous and permanent in this area over the main historical periods, especially during Roman colonisation and through the Middle Ages. Power struggles were extremely fierce at the time of the seigniories, which included Visconti, Sforza and Este; the latter ruled Bassa Romagna between the 14th and the 16th century, naming it "Romagna degli Estensi", "Romadiola" or "Romagnola". The House of Este offered a safe and efficient government with regulations and a statute; they established state schools, gave a boost to culture, promoted the reclamation of lands and the farming of new plants. The most visible heritage of this historical period is a series of imposing walls, solemn arches and grand strongholds built by the Este; these buildings are still the most striking features of the historic

town centres of the area. In more recent years, World War II hit these lands harshly; Bassa Romagna distinguished itself in the activities of the national resistance movement. Today this role is commemorated by several museums, monuments and memorials located in the various municipalities of the area.Bassa Romagna has also a historical tradition of cooperation, of which the first document goes back to 1860. When a new decree ordained the creation of the Royal Provinces of Emilia (featuring the definitions of "Circondari", "Mandamenti" and "Comuni"), on January the 23rd 1860 the head of Lugo's district declared that the "circondario" of Lugo had come into effect on January the 19th and this included the towns of Bagnacavallo, Cotignola, Conselice, Fusignano, Massa Lombarda and Santagata. The district joined the Province of Ravenna; the declaration of the event stated: "this decision will be welcomed with joy […] and will surely benefit citizens of the area". It's no wonder that the consortium of the municipalities of Bassa Romagna is the biggest in Emilia-Romagna, thanks to its 100,000 plus inhabitants and its area of more than 480 square km; this is also one of the largest consortia of municipalities in Italy.

The

deep historical roots

ROME

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· DEEP HISTORICAL ROOTS ·

alfonsine

Conselice

Lugo

Bagnara di Romagna

Cotignola

Massa Lombarda

Bagnacavallo

Fusignano

Sant'agatasul Santerno

Russi

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· famous people ·

GIUSEPPE COMPAGNONI (1754 -1833)Giuseppe Compagnoni was born in Lugo in 1754 and died in Milan in 1833. He was a patriot, an eminent constitutionalist, a historian, a journalist and a man of letters. He is famous for having suggested the adoption of the Cisalpine tricolour banner as the flag of the emerging Italian State, during the Cispadane Congress held in Reggio Emilia in January 1797.

AGOSTINO CODAZZI (1793 -1859)Agostino Codazzi was born in Lugo in 1793 and died in South America in 1859, in a small village called Espiritu Santu, which is now named after him. He was an explorer, a geographer and cartographer. After several vicissitudes in his youth, he joined the liberation army of Simón Bolivar and became a hero of the revolution. His detailed maps were studied widely, especially in France, and used to choose the most suitable locations for European colonies. Codazzi is buried in the National Pantheon of Venezuela in Caracas, next to Bolivar. The house where he was born is in Corso Mazzini; the façade bears two plaques dedicated to him.

PIETRO BUBANI (1806 -1888)Pietro Bubani was born in Bagnacavallo in 1806 and died there in 1888. After the 1830-31 revolutionary risings he moved to France, where he undertook in-depth studies of botany and wrote his most important book: Flora Pyrenaea. This treatise also featured plant species that he had discovered himself in the Pyrenees. The botanist was born and died in Palazzo Bubani, a mansion located in the heart of Bagnacavallo.

LUIGI CARLO FARINI (1812 -1866)Luigi Carlo Farini was born in Russi in 1812 and died in Nervi, a borough of Genoa, in 1866. Born into a middle class family, he became a physician and a politician. He was involved in the uprisings of Romagna and for this reason had to leave the country in 1843. He came back to Italy and in 1848 was appointed general secretary of the Home Office and general director of health services and prisons. He collaborated with Camillo Benso di Cavour in creating the new Italy; he was a member of the Royal Commission in Modena and governor of Romagna. After Italy's unification, in 1862 he had a role in the government.

famous people

· famous people ·

ALLEGRA BYRON (1817 -1822)Clara Allegra Byron was born in Bath (UK) in 1817 and died in Bagnacavallo in 1822. She was the natural daughter of Lord Byron and Claire Clairmont (stepsister of Mary Shelley). In March 1821 Byron came to Italy with Allegra and left her in Bagnacavallo, in the boarding school of the Capuchin nuns of S. Giovanni, while he stayed in Ravenna with the Countess Teresa Guiccioli. The Shelleys visited Allegra and expressed very positive opinions about her health and the school. Sadly, on April the 21st 1822, Allegra, just five years old, died due to an undefined fever.

STEFANO PELLONI - Il Passatore (1824 -1851) Stefano Pelloni was born in Boncellino, a village within the municipality of Bagnacavallo, in 1824 and died near Russi in 1851. He was one of the most powerful bandits of the 19th century. His father was a ferryman (passatore) on the Lamone river and Stefano got his nickname from him. After a trial for theft and a period of imprisonment in the civic tower of Bagnacavallo, he became a bandit and headed a large criminal gang that roamed around Romagna. Legend has it that he stole from the rich to give to the poor, but this is not historically proved. However Giovanni Pascoli called him Passator Cortese in his poem Romagna,

and the name stuck in the popular imagination. Today, the logo of the consortium of wines of Romagna bears his image. Every year, in the second half of April, Boncellino celebrates Passatore with the feast Lom a premavira.

ALFREDO BACCARINI (1826 -1890)Alfredo Baccarini was born in Russi in 1826 and died there in 1890. He was an engineer and a politician. He was a member of the governing council of public works and was also nominated general director of hydraulic works. In 1876 he was elected Member of Parliament and was minister for public works from 1878 to 1883, almost continuously. He is also the author of several publications about engineering.

GREGORIO RICCI CURBASTRO (1853 -1925)Gregorio Ricci Curbastro was born in Lugo in 1853 and died in Bologna in 1925. He was a scientist and a politician. He gained a degree in physics and math at the University of Padua and was appointed extraordinary professor there; he was also actively involved in politics in Lugo and in Padua. He is the author of important reclamation engineering works in the low plains of the Province of Ravenna; he designed the drinking water supply system of Lugo.

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FRANCESCO BARACCA (1888 -1918)Francesco Baracca was born in Lugo on May the 9th 1888 and died in 1918. He was an airman during World War I. He received three silver medals and a gold one, as well as awards for his merits from France, Great Britain, Serbia and Belgium. He ranks first amongst World War I Italian pilots with regards to the number of won battles. The black prancing horse became his personal symbol in 1917; later on, this became the logo of Ferrari. His last mission took place on June the 19th 1918; he was shot down over Montello and his remains were found only four days later. Lugo hosts a museum dedicated to the hero.

LUIGI VAROLI (1889 -1958)Luigi Luigi Varoli was born in Cotignola on September the 23rd 1889 and died there on September the 25th 1958. Artist and musician, he was the founder of a painting movement of great relevance in the area. Cotignola’s town museum and municipal music school are named after him. During his life he exhibited in several national shows and at the Salon des Indépendants in Paris, achieving great recognition. Between 1943 and 1945 Varoli and

Vittorio Zanzi created a safety net which sheltered Jews, political refugees, wounded partisans on the run, homeless people and concentration camps’ escapees. In 2003, Luigi and Anna Varoli and Vittorio and Serafina Zanzi were awarded the title of Righteous Among the Nations in memoriam by the State of Israel and by the Yad Vashem in Jerusalem.

BERNARDINO AND FRANCESCO ZAGANELLI (15th c.)Both painters, the two brothers were born in Cotignola between 1450 and 1460; Bernardino died in Cotignola in 1519 and Francesco died in Ravenna in 1532. Their apprenticeship probably took place in a Ferrarese workshop before the end of the last decade of the 15th century. After this, Francesco, the younger brother, opened a workshop in Cotignola and Bernardino also worked there until 1509. The two brothers had quite distinct styles: Bernardino was principally influenced by Venetian and Ferrarese schools, as well as by some Bolognese artists; Francesco's paintings and technical skills were mostly affected by North European engravings.

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famous painters

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· FAMOUS PAINTERS ·

GIROLAMO MARCHESI (1470 -1540)Girolamo Marchesi was born in Cotignola around 1470 and died in Rome probably around 1540. The painter is generally known as "il Cotignola"; his most mature work was influenced by Raphael. Marchesi's most significant works can be found in art museums in Bologna, Milan, San Marino and Budapest. Cotignola's church of San Francesco houses one of his paintings depicting a "Pietà".

BARTOLOMEO AND GIOVANNI BATTISTARAMENGHI (15th - 16th centuries)Bartolomeo Ramenghi was born in Bagnacavallo in 1484 and died in Bologna in 1542. He was nicknamed "il Bagnacavallo Senior" and his mature style shows the influence of Raphael. Bagnacavallo hosts some of his paintings; the altarpiece The Madonna and child with Saints Michael, Francis, Peter and John and The Mystic Marriage of Saint Catherine are on display in the Museo Civico delle Cappuccine. Christ on a throne of clouds with Saints Archangel Michael, John the Baptist, Bernardino and Peter the Apostle (pictured right) can be admired in the presbytery of the church of S. Michele Arcangelo. Giovanni Battista, son of Bartolomeo, was born in Bologna in 1521 and died there in 1601; he followed in his father's footsteps and became a painter. In Fontainebleau (1541 - 1545) he collaborated with

Primaticcio in the decoration of the now lost Grotto of the garden of the Pines; this was a very important experience for him. He then came back to Italy and worked with Vasari at the so-called One hundred days fresco (1546) in Rome's Palazzo della Cancelleria. Bagnacavallo hosts some of his works, amongst

which: the canvas depicting The Incredulity of Saint Thomas in the church of San Girolamo, The Altarpiece of the Rosary in the first chapel on the right in the church of Carmine and The Holy Conversation with the Saints Dominic and Catherine of Siena, located in the Museo Civico delle Cappuccine.

PIETRO BACCHI (1511 -1590) Pietro Bacchi was born in Bagnara in 1511 and died in Imola around 1590-95. At the age of thirty he became a monk; he was a preacher, but most of all a painter known as "il Bagnara". He studied in Imola, Bologna, Padua and Ravenna. The historical museum of the parish of his hometown houses several sacred art objects and paintings, amongst which a canvas by Pietro Bacchi.

ENZO MORELLI (1896 -1976)Enzo Morelli was born in Bagnacavallo in 1896 and died in Bogliaco del Garda in 1976. He was an important 20th century illustrator and painter. After World War I he joined the artistic movement Novecento Italiano, which was inspired by 15th century and pre-Renaissance art and aimed at the creation of a new painting style. Morelli exhibited his work in the most important national and international shows; he also lectured at Milan's Accademia di Brera and at the Accademia delle Belle Arti in Bologna. He is considered one of the most important landscape painters of the 20th

century. After his death, his widow donated a large collection of Morelli's work to the municipality of Bagnacavallo; this acquisition constitutes an important part of the modern art collection of the Museo Civico delle Cappuccine.

· FAMOUS PAINTERS ·

Io ero nato per disegnarecon i sassi sui sassi gli alberi, i colli, lo spazioso maree i fiori e la donna nuda come l'albero profonda come il mare bella come il fioreliscia come il sasso. Io ero nato per disegnare sui sassi che la pioggia avrebbe lavato.

Enzo Morelli

Io ero nato per disegnarecon i sassi sui sassi gli alberi, i colli, lo spazioso maree i fiori e la donna nuda come l'albero profonda come il mare bella come il fioreliscia come il sasso. Io ero nato per disegnare sui sassi che la pioggia avrebbe lavato.

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ike all places with a rich historical heritage, Bassa Romagna is bursting with art, and we are not only

referring to ancient buildings, sculptures and paintings. In the past as well as in the present Bassa Romagna has been the cradle and the adopted country of numerous painters, writers, musicians, opera singers, composers and poets, whose work has been influential on a national level, but also on an international one. It's no wonder then that this tradition is still on. Bassa Romagna has a wide and varied artistic community of creative people who prefer to live in this area, instead of large cities that could give them more visibility, because here they find a powerful source of inspiration and a sense of respect for their sensibility. This corner of Romagna has nourished the creativity of several writers, musicians, actors and directors. This somehow "enchanted" land can also claim to have hosted in its mist the poet George Gordon Byron (in the picture), hero and symbol of Romanticism.

L

· FERTILE LAND FOR ART ·

fertile land for art

reading bassa romagna: landscapes of literature

can be found in the parsonage of the church of San Francesco, in Bagnacavallo, and the local Museo Civico delle Cappuccine has dedicated a part of its collection to the illustrious writer. Vincenzo Monti (Passetto, 1754 - Milan, 1828) was born in a tiny village near Alfonsine and is one of the most important figures of Neoclassicism; he was officially nominated poet of the Italian Government and historiographer of the Kingdom of Italy. His lecture Sulla mitologia upholds the poetic value of classical myths and his masterpiece is considered to be the translation of the Iliad. The house where

Monti was born has been recently restored; it now houses a museum and an environmental education centre. Leo Longanesi (Bagnacavallo, 1905 - Milan, 1957) was born in Bagnacavallo about a century later. He was a journalist and the founder of several weekly magazines, such as È promesso, Il Toro and L'Italiano; together with Mino Maccari he worked at Il Selvaggio and was also a member of the literary movement Strapaese. Longanesi was also a graphic artist,

landscape of Bassa Romagna has been the inspiration for outstanding

poets such as Dante and Byron. This is also the birthplace of remarkable protagonists of past and present literature. Several writers from other regions and countries have found inspiration here for their essays about Romagna and for the evocative settings of their novels. The senior figure amongst local writers is without any doubt Tomaso Garzoni (Bagnacavallo, 1549 - 1589). His birth name was Ottavio, but he took on the name Tomaso when he became a member of the order of the Canons Regular of the Lateran, in the monastery of Santa Maria in Porto in Ravenna, where he spent the rest of his life. He wrote several encyclopedic works, amongst which La piazza universale di tutte le professioni del mondo (1585), a best-seller volume that has been translated into several languages; to the extent that Garzoni has been described as the Umberto Eco of the 16th

century (indeed Eco opened the 51st chapter of his novel Il Pendolo di Foucault with a quote from Garzoni). His tomb stone

· LaNDSCaPES OF LITERaTURE ·

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The

Eraldo Baldini

Leo LonganesiTomaso Garzoni

Vincenzo Monti

drawing inspiration from Giorgio Morandi as well as from the historical examples of Daumier, Toulouse-Lautrec and Grosz. After the war he established the Longanesi publishing house, of which he was the director. In Bagnacavallo, the herbal garden Giardino dei Semplici celebrates his scathing personality with special benches engraved with some of his famous aphorisms. Giovanna Righini Ricci (Lugo, 1933 - Bologna, 1993) is a more contemporary writer, perhaps less widely known, but nonetheless important for her role in the field of education. Indeed she was one of the most innovative writers for young readers towards the end of the 20th century; her vast production often features rural Romagna as its narrative setting. The municipality of Conselice has set up a literary prize named after her, to celebrate her contribution to pedagogy. Eraldo Baldini (Russi, 1952) is an established novelist whose work is also translated and published abroad. His career as a writer started when he won the first prize at Cattolica's Mystfest in 1991 with the short story Re di Carnevale. Since then, his narrative style has constantly developed and we could define it "rural gothic", from the title of one of his collections of short stories. Baldini also writes scripts for cinema and theatre and organises cultural events. Gian Ruggero Manzoni (San Lorenzo di Lugo, 1957), a descendant of the famous Alessandro, is also quite a versatile writer and artist.

· LaNDSCaPES OF LITERaTURE ·

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Brief suggested reading list:Alfredo Antonaros: I Romagnoli, la tribù di Fellini - Sonda,1997Dante Arfelli: Quando c'era la pineta - Edizioni del Girasole, 1975Eraldo Baldini: Gotico Rurale - Frassinelli, 2000 / Mal'aria - Frassinelli Paperback, 2003 Renzo Bartolotti: Nunàz - Il Ponte Vecchio ed, 2008Mario Bejor: Le rane quella notte cantavano - Vallecchi, 1953Francesco Fuschini: Concertino Romagnolo - Edizioni del Girasole, 1986Gino Giardini: Erbe palustri - Walberti Edizioni, 2004Adriano Guerrini: C' è stato per tutti - Racconti brevi - Bacchilega Edizioni, 2007Giovanna Righini Ricci: Nel cavo della mano. Un pugno di terra - Longo, 2003Gian Ruggero Manzoni: Il Francese - Edizioni del Girasole, 1995 Francesco Serantini: Il fucile di Papa della Genga - Edizioni del Girasole, 1989

Italy it's probably impossible to find another small area without any big city, such as Bassa Romagna,

boasting such a prestigious music tradition. The earliest name is that of Baroque composer Arcangelo Corelli (Fusignano, 1653 - Rome, 1713), one of the celebrities of his time as well as an excellent violinist; he created a school that had several followers throughout Europe. Fusignano's choir was established in 1971 and named after Corelli; it is still a very active choir. The musician and composer Giuseppe Malerbi (Lugo, 1771 - 1849) was born about a century later; he and his brother Luigi (Lugo, 1776 - 1843), a composer and organist, ran a famous music school in Lugo. Giuseppe is renown as one of the earliest teachers of the celebrated Gioacchino Rossini (Pesaro, 1792 - Paris, 1868); the young Rossini studied singing, composition and harpsichord under Malerbi's guidance. The author of immortal operas such as Il Barbiere di Siviglia and La Gazza Ladra took his first "musical steps" in Lugo, where his family moved in 1802 and stayed until 1804. Following his debut at Milan's La Scala in 1812, with La Pietra del Paragone, his fame grew continuously and he moved on to perform in the major Italian theatres, then in Vienna, where he met Beethoven, in London and finally in

listening to bassa romagna: landscapes of music

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He has written poetry, novels, essays and scripts for theatre, some of which have been translated abroad; he is also a painter and an actor. Amongst the youngest writers, it’s worth mentioning the talented graphic novelist Stefano Babini, author of Non è stato un pic nic!, which is currently one of the most interesting books of this genre in Italy, and the writer Deborah Gambetta, born in Turin in 1970, but a long-term resident in Massa Lombarda. Her debut novel, Viaggio di maturità, tells the adventurous tale of three eighteen years old from Romagna that travel to Puglia; it’s a successful teen novel that has won several prizes. It would be too long to mention all the writers that have been interested in Bassa Romagna; amongst the contemporaries, we suggest that some of the best interpreters of the unique character of this land are Alfredo Antonaros, Renzo Bortolotti and Gino Giardini.

In

Paris, where he became the director of the Théâtre Italien. The house where he lived in Lugo is now an art exhibitions venue. While he was a teacher at the Bolognese Liceo Musicale, Rossini had amongst his students Marietta Alboni (Città di Castello PG, 1826 - Ville d'Avray, 1894), whose father was originally from Bagnacavallo; she became

successful worldwide as an opera singer. Alessandrina Drudi (Cotignola, 1878 - Villa Verucchio 1961) also started out with a promising career as opera singer; due to sudden adverse financial circumstances she moved into the more profitable field of operetta and gained great success with the stage name of Gea della Garisenda. The fascinating choir singer Anna Lolli was just few years younger than Drudi; she became the

muse and greatest love of the celebrated composer Pietro Mascagni (Livorno, 1863 - Rome, 1945), author of Cavalleria Rusticana. Mascagni spent the last thirty years of his life with Lolli and dedicated her his operas Isabeau and Parisina; however, their love affair was secret and the resulting correspondence amounts to almost 5,000 letters that are kept in the Museo Mascagni in Bagnara di

Romagna. The composer Francesco Balilla Pratella (Lugo, 1880 - Ravenna, 1955) was a pupil of Mascagni; he is the author of five symphonic poems called Romagna, which then converged into the local dialect opera La Sina'd Vargöun (Rosellina dei Vergoni), scena della Romagna bassa per la musica, in tre atti. Pratella befriended Marinetti and in 1910 wrote the Futurist Manifesto tecnico della musica futurista (in which he celebrated the principles of atonalism, enharmonic modulation, absolute polyphony and free rhythm) followed by Manifesto tecnico della musica futurista and Distruzione della quadratura; his works l'Inno alla Vita and L'Aviatore Dro made him an important protagonist within the field of Futurist music. The great heritage of opera in Bassa Romagna is still perpetuated today by the productions of Lugo's Teatro Rossini; its Lugo Opera Festival was created in 2001. John De Leo (Lugo, 1970) is a contemporary musician whose remarkable talent has been nourished by this land; his voice has been defined a "polysemous instrument" and somehow the third path after Demetrio Stratos' revolutionary experimentation and Bobby McFerrin's jazz paradigm.

· LaNDSCaPES OF MUSIC ·

A. Corelli

G. Ross ini

M. Al oni

P. Mascagni

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Leo was the leader of the "cultured" pop band

Quintorigo until 2005. The band gained prizes and important recognitions from the audience and from the critics alike; it still boasts amongst its members the gifted double bass player Stefano Ricci, born in Fusignano. De Leo has moved on with a solo project, partly in collaboration with the pianist and composer Guido Facchini, also from Lugo; innumerable are the collaborations of the versatile musician, with some of the most innovative jazz and experimental musicians in Italy and abroad, but also through contaminations between music, literature and video art, which he defines "videomusicazioni".

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· LaNDSCaPES OF MUSIC ·

De

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BRIEF RECOMMENDED DISCOGRAPHY

Arcangelo Corelli: Sonate per violino op.5 no.7, no.8, no.9, no.10, no.11, no.12 - Naxos, 2007Gioacchino Rossini: Il Barbiere di Siviglia -

Deutsche Grammophon, 2006Pietro Mascagni: Cavalleria Rusticana / I Pagliacci - EMI, 2005

Francesco Balilla Pratella: Concerto dell'albatro / Trio - Bongiovanni, 2003 / AA.VV:

Musica Futurista - Multhipla/Cramps, 1980John De Leo: Vago Svanendo - Carosello Records, 2007 /

Zolfo (DVD) - Carosello Records, 2009 BompianiQuintorigo: Rospo - Universal Music, 1999 / Grigio - Universal Music, 2000 / In cattività -

Universal Music, 2003:::

This genre of music is specific to Romagna and quite unique in its kind; it originates from the unlikely combination between dances and music from North European courts, such as waltz, polka e mazurka (which arrived in Romagna with the aristocracy that came on holiday on the Riviera) and 18th century popular music such as tresconi, saltarelli, manfrine and furlana, to name a few. The violinist and composer Carlo Brighi, known as Zaclén, brought the two genres together during the second half of the 19th century in Romagna. However the greatest interpreter of liscio was Secondo Casadei, who launched the trend of singing in the regional dialect and included jazz instruments such as drums and saxophone, inspired by the American soldiers that came here during the war. The extraordinary success of this music genre was due to the fact that it was meant to be danced in pairs, which was rare at the time. Liscio is still alive after seventy years of changing music trends and this is the proof that its connection with this land is very deep. Liscio orchestras still perform their concerts in dance-halls in rural villages or in town feasts, where you can see people dancing along. The so-called "s'ciucaren" certainly constitute one of the most folkloristic sights during these concerts: dressed in traditional costumes, the unmistakable masters of the whip keep up with the rhythm of the orchestra by cracking their instruments.

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The tradition of “liscio” folk music Radio Sonora is the Community Web Radio of all

the residents of Bassa Romagna and is the result

of an innovative project created by the consortium

of municipalities; it is the ideal soundtrack for

the discovery of this territory. This radio has

been designed as a place for experimenting with

new languages; everyone can actively take part

in the project with a contribution or by means

of creating a programme. The result is a varied

mix of music of all genres, entertainment and

programmes about culture and information.

To listen to Radio Sonora, download the Podcasts

or check the gallery of video and photos go to

www.radiosonora.it

· LaNDSCaPES OF CINEMa ·

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seeing bassa romagna: landscapes of cinema

is perhaps the most cinematic town. Places here have a natural musicality: open spaces, palaces and churches seem to have a natural predisposition for the camera; therefore several directors and scriptwriters have staged their films here, or have just stopped by to steal an image, a fragment, details and circumstances that they couldn't find anywhere else. The first of many directors to work in Bagnacavallo was De Sica, who shot La riffa in 1962; the following year the Taviani brothers directed their second film here, I fuorilegge del matrimonio. The oval square Piazza Nuova

is a very characteristic place which has attracted a lot of attention for cinema and television alike; it was chosen by Vittorio Gassman for his reading of Dante and has also been the setting for a series of commercials shot by the director Daniele Lucchetti. Pupi Avati's La mazurka del barone, della santa e del fico fiorone (1974) was tailored around Bagnacavallo, as the ideal town of Romagna; however it was not shot here. The countryside and the small villages of Bassa

inema lovers will find Romagna a magic place because it's a very rich land

from the visual point of view. The director Giuliano Montaldo maintains that: "These towns of Romagna are captivating because they haven't been modified with tasteless interventions. Old things have been restored, the new doesn't look new, because it's been planned according to the design of time, therefore there are no clashes. This is the cultural heritage of the people of Romagna." Several Italian films have been shot in Lugo, Bagnacavallo, Russi, and in the countryside of Bassa Romagna, around Alfonsine, Massa Lombarda and Fusignano. The landscape has become a very enjoyable cinematic character rather than just being the background; its simple beauty has remained unchanged over the centuries. While strolling around the towns or walking in the countryside, it's easy to catch a glimpse of what inspired film directors. Cinema lovers will naturally try to spot the various locations in which films were shot in the area. Bagnacavallo

IvanoMarescotti

C

· LaNDSCaPES OF CINEMa ·

Romagna have also been the setting of several films about the resistance movement; no other area of the country has been so enticing for films about this topic. It is worth to mention L'Agnese va a morire (1976), shot by Giuliano Montaldo in the countryside of Alfonsine, where the "Casa dell'Agnese" is still a significant memento of the film; this traditional late 19th century rural house currently hosts cultural events every summer. There is an anecdote which explains, like nothing else does, the tight bond between the topic of the film and this territory. The leading actress Ingrid Thulin went in a second hand shop in Lugo and chose a black bicycle that was in quite poor conditions, against Montaldo's advice, who would have preferred to use a better looking bicycle for the film. While the bicycle was being repaired, the message of a partisan courier was uncovered where the seat is connected to the frame. The director claims to still feel a shiver when he thinks about that moment today. Bagnacavallo has also been the setting of several light-hearted films in the genre of Italian comedy. Il presidente del Borgorosso Football Club (1970), directed by D'Amico, co-scripted and performed by Alberto Sordi, was almost entirely shot in Bagnacavallo; here the director found friendly and lively people, great lovers of food and wine and ideal characters embodying the football fans described in the film script. Not everyone knows that the local Italo Zingarelli

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(Lugo, 1930 - Rome, 2000) was the creator and producer of the popular series of films starring Bud Spencer and Terence Hill. More recently, Soldini's Agata e la tempesta (2004) was partly shot here and the two-episodes TV drama Al di là delle frontiere (2004), directed by Maurizio Zaccaro, used Bagnacavallo as its stage for several weeks. Contrary to what Totò claimed in the film Totò nella luna (1958), that no actor could ever come from Bagnacavallo, the village of Villanova, near Bagnacavallo, is actually the birthplace of the famous actor Ivano Marescotti, born in 1946. The actor, director and documentary filmmaker Amerigo Alberani, who has collaborated with Marco Bellocchio, is also from Bagnacavallo. The silent cinema star Luciano Albertini was born in Lugo in 1882, with the birth name of Francesco Vespignani. Lugo is also the birthplace of film director Esodo Pratelli (born in 1902), author of comedies such as Se non son matti non li vogliamo (1942) and of drama films such as Gente dell'Aria (1943). The director and documentary filmmaker Mario Cottignola, born in 1928 in the village of Lavezzola, has shot a number of documentaries about Romagna, amongst which Romagna amor... (1970) and Il nostro pesce (1981). With regards to theatre, we should mention two talented award-winning actresses: Silvia Calderoni, born in Lugo, and Elena Bucci, from Russi; both have achieved national and international success.

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· landscapes of cinema ·

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· LaNDSCaPES OF CINEMa ·

· Caccia tragica (1947) by Giuseppe de Santis, with Andrea Checchi, Piero Lulli, Massimo Girotti, Carlo Lizzani. Alfonsine· Boccaccio '70 (1962) the episode of “La riffa” by Vittorio De Sica with Sophia Loren. Lugo (historic town centre), Bagnacavallo (via Mazzini

and via Farini)· I fuorilegge del matrimonio (1963) an episode by the Taviani brothers and Valentino Orsini, with Ugo Tognazzi. Bagnacavallo (S. Francesco, Piazza Nuova, via Garibaldi and piazza della Libertà)· Una bella grinta (1964) by Giuliano Montaldo, with Renato Salvatori, Norma Bengell, Marina Malfatti. Lugo· Il presidente del Borgorosso Football Club (1970) by Luigi Filippo D'Amico, with Alberto Sordi. Bagnacavallo (Teatro Goldoni, via Mazzini,

piazza della Libertà), Lugo (historic town centre and surroundings)· Permette, signora, che ami vostra figlia? (1974) (1974) by Gian Luigi Polidoro, with Ugo Tognazzi, Felice Andreasi. Bagnacavallo (Teatro Goldoni)· L'Agnese va a morire (1976) by Giuliano Montaldo with Ingrid Thulin, Stefano Satta Flores, Michele Placido, Aurore Clèment, Ninetto Davoli,

Massimo Girotti, Johnny Dorelli, Eleonora Giorgi, Flavio Bucci, Gino Santercole, Aldo Reggiani. Alfonsine, Bagnacavallo (piazza della Libertà, via Mazzini and railway station), Fusignano, Lugo

· Il Passatore (1977) by Piero Nelli, RAI TV drama with Manfred Freyberger, Tina Aumont. Bagnacavallo (Teatro Goldoni, Piazza Nuova), Lugo· La neve nel bicchiere (1984) by Florestano Vancini with Massimo Ghini, Ivano Marescotti. Bagnacavallo (the square opposite the church of Carmine) Massa Lombarda· Miranda (1985) by Tinto Brass, with Serena Grandi, Andrea Occhipinti. Alfonsine· La fiera dei sette dolori (1986) (1986) by Ghigo Alberani, not distributed. Bagnacavallo, Russi· E allora mambo (1999) by Lucio Pellegrini, with Luca Bizzarri, Paolo Kessisoglu and Luciana Littizzetto. Bagnacavallo, Lugo (historic town

centre)· Agata e la tempesta (2004) by Silvio Soldini, with Licia Maglietta, Giuseppe Battiston, Emilio Solfrizzi, Marina Massironi. Bagnacavallo

(via Mazzini and via Farini)· Al di là delle frontiere (2004) RAI TV drama in two episodes by Maurizio Zaccaro with Sabrina Ferilli, Johannes Brandrup, Lino Capolicchio,

Leo Gullotta. Bagnacavallo (Teatro Goldoni, piazza della Libertà, Castellaccio, Palazzo Massari, church of S. Girolamo)

FILMS, DIRECTORS, ACTORS AND PLACES

In Romagna the dialect is commonly spoken, also amongst young generations. Bassa Romagna can

be considered the main breeding ground for this idiom; as a matter of fact the distinguished Austrian glottologist Friedrich Shürr, who carried out scientific studies of the structure, grammar and phonetics of the dialects of Romagna in the first half of the 20th century, was made honorary citizen by the mayor of the near Ravenna. This ancient "contemporary language" of neo-Latin origins isn’t just a folkloric component, but also a key to local culture and somehow an important part of the landscape. We are presenting here a brief cooking glossary of the most recurrent words and terminology; a helpful tool for those approaching the culture of fine living rooted in this land.

L’amzèta: the jug

l'azdòra: the woman in charge of the smooth runningof a house

e' bichìr: the glass

la brazadëla: simple baked cake

the dialect of romagna a LIVING “LaNGUaGE”

B assa Romagna is a territory with a solid and strong identity that has been handed down to the present,

also thanks to a thriving cultural life. Every year, season after season, more than 1,000 events take place in this area. Theatres offer a rich programme of plays and concerts; some of these theatres, such as the ones in Lugo (Rossini), Bagnacavallo (Goldoni) and Russi (Comunale) are authentic architectural masterpieces. Festivals, events and film screenings take place all year round, targeting a lively audience of all ages, often with the collaboration of local community centres. Street markets, art exhibitions, sport events, traditional feasts and food fairs transform town squares into very animated stages. This constantly bustling cultural environment is kept alive by several factors, such as the innate warmth and hospitality of local people, the architectural charm of historic town centres and the magic atmosphere of open spaces. The result is immediate social cohesion, for those that belong to the community as well as for those that just happen to visit the area. Indeed, Bassa Romagna boasts a high quality of life and one of the longest life expectancies of Europe.

the culture of fine living

e’ burlèngh: migliaccio or sanguinaccio, traditional cake with pork blood

e’ camen: the fireplace

i caplèt: cappelletti (pasta with stuffing)

i cavdon: the firedogs

la cucêra: the spoon

e' curtël: the knife

la farena: flour

e' fóran: the oven

e' furmài: cheese

la furzena: the fork

e' garnadël: small broom made with broomcorn

l ’irôla: the base of the fireplace

al lisègn: tagliatelle

e' mantìl: the table cloth

e' pân: bread

e parsòt: ham

i pasaden: passatelli, a kind of pasta

e’ pidariôl: the funnel

la piê: piadina, typical round flatbrad from Romagna

e’ salâm: salami

la saba: must syrup

e' s-ciadùr: the rolling pin

la scàrana: the chair

la sopa: the soup

la spoia: sheet of pasta

i strozaprit: strozzapreti, a kind of short pasta(literally "priest choker")

e’ tëst: thin and flat clay disc used to bake piada

e’ tulìr: the board for pasta making

e’ ven: wine

e' zöch: large log for the fireplace

i zucaren: traditional biscuits made in various shapes

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· a land of passion and competition ·

a land of passion and competition

level, including Milan (at the time of the "three Dutch players") and the Italian national team during the 1994 World Cup, when Italy reached the final and came second. The attachment to the "national sport" is demonstrated by several other Serie A football players from all times, such as the Lugo-born Ermes Muccinelli, Giancarlo Capucci, Valerio Spadoni and Gaetano Lupi. Bassa Romagna is also home to illustrious protagonists from other sport disciplines. In the 1930s the runner Emilio Marini competed at the Olympic Games; Luca Galletti has been part of the Olympic team several times and was Italian champion in the 400 mt race in 2008. Andrea Gardini and Giacomo Sintini, both from Bagnacavallo, have been volleyball world champions; the Lugo-born basketball players Fioranna Venturini and Loris Benelli have been national champions. There’s not enough space here to list all the local champions that have distinguished themselves in a variety of sports, such as cycling or skating, for instance. With regards to tennis, Sara Errani from Massa Lombarda has ranked world no.24. Romagna is renown as the land of "mutor" (motorcycle, in the local dialect).

fiery passion that lights the souls of people in Romagna is quite renown; this is especially

evident when the passion becomes competitiveness. Bassa Romagna, with its longstanding and indissoluble bond with the world of sport, is no exception to this. This territory has given birth to several first-class champions from a variety of sport disciplines; it offers numerous opportunities to practice sport, to local residents and to visitors. A good-natured sense of competition is palpable and widespread and it has nourished, without a doubt, champions that grew up here such as the famous boxer Francesco Damiani from Bagnacavallo. Damiani achieved 29 consecutive victories and has been awarded the titles of WCB International Champion and of EBU European Champion; he was the first WBO heavyweight world champion and held this title from May the 6th 1989 till January the 11th 1991. Francesco was also the manager of the Italian Olympic boxing team in Beijing, where his team members won a gold, a silver and a bronze medal. Arrigo Sacchi was born in Fusignano and is very attached to his town; he's been the beloved coach of several top-level football teams, at national and international

The

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· a land of passion and competition ·

ome champions in this field are from Bassa Romagna, such as Mario Lega and Lorenzo Baroni, both from

Lugo; the first won the 250cc World Championship in 1977 and the latter competed with the Honda team in the 125cc World Championship in 2006. The engineer Fabio Taglioni, also known as "Ing. T", was born in Santa Maria in Fabriago and is the inventor of the revolutionary "desmodromic distribution", which is at the heart of Ducati's success in competitions. Moving on to the world of four wheels, we should remember that the logo of Ferrari, the famous Prancing Horse, was originally the coat of arms of Francesco Baracca, the Lugo born ace pilot; in 1923 the pilot's mother donated the symbol to Enzo Ferrari, who was a pilot at the time, to wish him good luck. Lugo boasts more car racing champions; amongst which Teodoro Zeccoli, who triumphed in the 24 Hours of Le Mans, in the 1,000 km of Nürburgring and in the European Touring Car Championship in the '60s, and the glorious Pierluigi Martini, former F1 pilot with the Minardi team. The numerous sport events of national and international relevance that take place here throughout the year are also a testament to the fact that sport is part of the local DNA. Outside competitive sport, there is also the wide and hearty world of amateurs that compete against each other or just

against themselves; they are the ones that celebrate the deep meaning of sport: an opportunity for socialising and a school of life. The natural landscape of Bassa Romagna is enriched by the fundamental and varied human element represented by groups of cyclists (from Italy and Europe) exploring this land with their pedal power, by groups of runners engaged in walks, marathons and races and by queues of vintage cars or motorcycles heading to a rally.

S

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· aN aUTHENTIC TaLENT FOR TOURISM ·

an authentic talent for tourism

features traditional hotels, characteristic bed and breakfast and several farm holidays. Bassa Romagna increasingly represents an attractive place to explore because of its own merits, but also as a strategic location for those that want to visit the more established tourist destinations of the area.

assa Romagna boasts remarkable historic town centres, important prehistoric and archaeological sites, luxuriant

green areas and unique ecological habitats, such as marshlands. Parishes, ancient churches, strongholds, rural mansions, old mills and country houses lie along the countryside roads, scattered amongst fields, fruit trees plantations and small green patches, or in the shade of monumental trees. The flatness of the land and the intricate network of roads and lanes make Bassa Romagna the ideal place for cyclists; here they will enjoy exploring the countryside with its patterns of fields and its constantly changing colours throughout the seasons. While cycling through this area, it's easy to discover ancient villages and authentic art treasures, such as craftsmen's workshops and lots of other things that are the manifestation of local people's civilization, traditions, work, roots, creativity and warm hospitality. The perfect complement to the historical, cultural and natural itineraries is embodied by the remarkable tradition of local gastronomy, which has labelled Bassa Romagna as "terra della buona tavola" (land of good food). The local rural and cultural tourism is attractive for several reasons; the area

B

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Tourist Information centre of the consortium of municipalities

of Bassa Romagna represents the whole area. Tourists can ring the office for information or can browse the official tourist information websitewww.romagnadeste.it which is regularly updatedby all the local contributors. The office is in Bagnacavallo in the central piazza della Libertà, 4. It is open all week long, from Monday to Sunday from 09:30 to 12:30;on Saturday also from 14:30 to 17:30,or from 15:00 to 18:00 (DST). Tel. +39 0545 280898; fax +39 0545 280859;e-mail: turismo@comune.bagnacavallo.ra.it

www.romagnadeste.it

The

· TOURIST INFORMaTION CENTRE ·

alfonsineDISCOVERING

· aLFONSINE ·

how to get thereAlfonsine is located northeast of Lugo, where the main road Adriatica SS16 meets the provincial road Naviglio SP8; the main road, which is named via Reale in Alfonsine, connects Ferrara with Ravenna and the latter leads to Bagnacavallo.

a culture of commitmentToday Alfonsine is a flourishing and important modern farming area, thanks to the commitment of many generations of local people who defended and rebuilt their town over the centuries and in recent times. The locals' commitment to their heritage is shown in their strong and warm character and is also manifested in the widespread interest for culture.

historyThe town's origins are linked to a family called Calcagnini. In 1465 Borso d'Este, the Duke of Ferrara, donated land to the Count Teofilo Calcagnini; these territories were located on the right side of the river Po di Primaro and included the towns of Filo and Longastrino. They consisted mainly of woods and marshes and Teofilo started a series of reclamation

works that his son Alfonso continued to carry out; the son called the reclaimed lands "Le Alfonsine". Alfonsine was on the border between the municipality of Ravenna and the lands of the Este, so the boundaries were disputed for a long time and Alfonsine became a municipality only in 1814. In June 1914 the town appeared in the newspapers' headlines because of the "Settimana Rossa", in which the town hall and the local church were burnt down. During fascism, the locals suffered harsh repression. Toward the end of World War II the town became a key battle front for a very long time, resulting in a devastating 75% destruction of all buildings; the historic town centre disappeared and a new town was built on the left bank of the river Senio.

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CaLCaGNINI COaT OF aRMS{ {

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· aLFONSINE ·

1

2

4

3

MUSEO DELLa BaTTaGLIa DEL SENIOPiazza della Resistenza, 2 - Opening hours: Monday to Friday,09:00 - 12:00 and 14:00 - 17:00; in April and May also Saturday and Sunday, 09:00 - 12:00 and 15:00 - 18:00; during the rest of the year open on Saturday by appointment (tel. 347 4628668); closed: August, 01/01, 01/05 and the afternoons preceding a public holiday Tel. +39 0544 84302 / 866672; e-mail museodelsenio@racine.ra.itMuseo del Senio is a modern museum documenting the final stages of the attacks on the Gothic Line, culminating with the battle of April the 10th 1945, an important event of World War II. The museum has two main displays: one is about the transit of the Allied troops and the other documents partisan resistance in Romagna. The collection includes a large number of photographs, original maps, military uniforms and equipment, flags and military items that were converted for everyday use after the conflict. In 1997, the Istituto Storico della Resistenza e dell'Età Contemporanea of the Province of Ravenna has joined the museum on site with its 10,000 plus books collection about resistance and contemporary history.

things to see

1 2

· aLFONSINE ·

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CHIESa aRCIPRETaLE DI SaNTa MaRIaCorso della Repubblica, 22 - Tel. +39 0544 81357;e-mail ufficiocultura@comune.alfonsine.ra.itThe original 19th century church was destroyed by World War II bombing; this reconstruction lies on the site of the "new town". The interior features remarkable windows in the apse and valuable ceramics made by Gaetano Dalmonte from Faenza. The canvas depicting The Christening of Jesus was painted by Anacleto Margotti and donated to the church as a reconciliation token by a former U.S. airman who had taken part in the bombing of Alfonsine; it features an early mural paint created by the young Margotti and now destroyed. Jesus facial features closely resemble those of the pilot and hero Francesco Baracca.

RISERVa NaTURaLE DI aLFONSINE (see page 154)

Casa MontiVia Passetto, 3 - Opening hours: from September to November and from March to May, Monday to Friday, 09:00 - 13:00, on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday also 14:00 - 17:00; from December to February and from June to August, Monday to Friday, 09:00 - 13:00; closed: Saturday, Sunday, from 22/12 to 06/01 and from 09 to 24/08 - Free admission - Tel. +39 0544 869808The house where the neoclassical poet Vincenzo Monti was born is located about 1 km from the town centre, in an area formerly known as "Ortazzo". The house has been recently restored and now houses a museum. From the outside it's a beautiful 18th century two-storey rural house with several memorial plaques on the façade. Inside there is a large staircase leading upstairs to the Museo Montiano; the museum has three rooms: "Sala della culla" (with a display of antique furniture), "Sala dei documenti" (with very rare first printed editions) and "Saletta Montiana" (with the precious 18th century marble bust of Monti, several items and manuscripts of the poet

in the area

3

· aLFONSINE ·

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and of his daughter Costanza). The ground floor houses the information centre of Parco del Delta e della Riserva di Alfonsine and its natural history museum.

CaSa DELL'aGNESEVia Destra Senio, 88 - Tel. +39 0544 81208 / +39 338 8002962;e-mail casadeldiavolo@libero.it - www.lacasadeldiavolo.itFrom the river Senio walk along the Canale Destra Reno (make sure it's on your right) for about 1 km and you will reach Casa dell'Agnese; this is a typical late 19th century rural house with all the original features (bricks and mud walls, flat tiles and thatch in the attic). In 1975 the director Giuliano Montaldo shot his film L'Agnese va a morire here. The cattle shed has a display of farming tools that were once used in the fields and at home. The wide shaded barnyard also features the old barn and the oven. In summer the house hosts cultural events.

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shoppingSHOPSIn Alfonsine most shops are located on the left bank of the river, in the area near piazza Gramsci, corso Matteotti and corso della Repubblica; shops on the right bank of the river Senio can be found mainly along corso Garibaldi.

MARKETS· Monday morning: piazza Resistenza - Weekly market· Thursday morning: piazza Monti - Weekly market· Roba vècia e roba nova - Street market with new and vintage items, art and collectibles, furniture and other things - Last Sunday of the month, from September to May, from 09:00 till sunset: piazza Gramsci - Tel. +39 0544 866667 / +39 339 8503411; e-mail seganti.stefano@comune.alfonsine.ra.it

main eventsDates are subject to change. For information please visit the website www.romagnadeste.it

FEBRUARY - Carnevale Alfonsinese - Traditional carnival parade with floats and costumes in the streets of the town

APRIL 10 - Official celebration of the anniversary ofLiberation in Alfonsine

APRIL 25 - Nel Senio della Memoria - Remembrance day celebrating Battaglia del Senio, Resistance and the Constitution with theatre shows, music, history and tales along the banks of the river, for pedestrians and cyclists Tel. +39 0544 866672 - www.nelseniodellamemoria.it

LAST of MAY - Sagra delle Alfonsine - Traditional feastTel. +39 0544 866648

JULY and AUGUST - Pensiero, narrazione e voce - Poetry, literature and music in private and public gardens

2nd of OCTOBER - Festa dell'Uva - Wine tastings with the sommeliers from the national association AIS; dance and folk music, arts and craft, exhibitions and gastronomy Tel. +39 339 8503411

OCTOBER 31 - La Festa di Halloween Tel. +39 0544 866667/673

Tourist Information Centre at Casa Monti Via Passetto, 3 - Opening hours: Monday to Friday,09:00 - 13:00, in September, October, November, March,April and May also Tuesday to Thursday, 14:00 - 17:00 Tel. and fax +39 0544 869808 e-mail turismoalfonsine@provincia.ra.it www.comune.alfonsine.ra.it www.romagnadeste.it

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· aLFONSINE ·

BagnacavalloDISCOVERING

· BaGNaCaVaLLO ·

how to get thereBagnacavallo is located east of Lugo, where the main road San Vitale SP253R meets the provincial road Naviglio SP8; the first connects Bologna with Ravenna and the latter leads to Faenza.

the art of hospitalityThe heart of the historic town centre of Bagnacavallo is its main square piazza della Libertà. The ancient town makes a striking scene; its palaces, churches and lanes are set out in perfect proportion. This makes the town very cinematic; some of the best Italian directors have shot their films here since the '60s. The authentic character of the place is revealed by the warm hospitality of the locals, whose remarkable respect for nature and traditions is easily passed on to visitors too. Tourists will discover the great heritage of Bagnacavallo - art, culture and gastronomy - and what makes it one of the most interesting places in the Province of Ravenna.

historyAccording to legend, the place name Bagnacavallo comes from a hypothetical water spring which healed the beloved

horse of the Emperor Tiberius; this is confirmed by the motto of the coat of arms of the municipality: Ingredior rhoebus, cyllaros egredior (I enter ill, I leave healthy). A more mundane explanation is that visitors trying to get into town had to cross a marsh on horseback. It is certain that the origins of this lively cultural town are really ancient; late Bronze Age archaeological findings were discovered in the area. There are also traces of Umbrian, Etruscan and Gallic settlements, but it’s with the Romans that the town became more important. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Bagnacavallo was in the hands of several rulers over the centuries; in 1376 it was given to the English mercenary leader John Hawkwood as payment for his services. From 1440 it was the property of the House of Este, who held it for a century and a half; this was a period of renaissance for the town. The Este introduced a statute and the farming of new plants, such as "uva d'oro" (grapes of gold), a new vine that came to the area as the dowry of Renata of France, wife of Ercole II. Up until the unification of the country, Bagnacavallo was part of the Papal States for more than two centuries, except for a short spell of Napoleonic domination (1800-1815). The heritage of these various influences is clearly visible in the well-preserved old town, with its original Medieval curvilinear structure (which is unique in the region) and its numerous monuments, ancient stately homes and religious buildings.

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· BAGNACAVALLO ·

{ {

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JOHN HawKwOOD KNOwN aS GIOVaNNI aCUTO

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Palazzo ComunalePiazza della Libertà, 12The neoclassical town hall was designed by Cosimo Morelli and was built from 1791 onwards. The balcony bears the town coat of arms, depicting a horse with the left front leg raised over water. The portico floor on the west side of the building features a sundial made out of a marble slate. The town hall and the nearby theatre stand on the former location of what used to be a grand stately home until the end of the 17th century; this was owned by the Brandolini, one of the most powerful and influential families of Bagnacavallo during the 14th century. This building had a wide portico which hosted the town market; it was very aptly known as "Portico delle Bugie" (portico of the lies).

· BAGNACAVALLO ·

things to see

PIaZZa DELLa LIBERTa This is the heart of Bagnacavallo and of its architecture; when visitors arrive

in Piazza della Libertà from one of the narrow and curvy streets of the town centre, the square certainly offers a scenic view, with all its interesting

buildings. At night, discreet public lights emphasise the silhouettes of buildings and enhance the town atmosphere.

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Teatro Comunale “Carlo Goldoni”Piazza della Libertà, 18 - Tel. +39 0545 280898The municipal theatre was designed by the Bolognese architect Filippo Antolini and built between 1839 and 1845 next to the town hall. Since its early days it has hosted a high quality programme of events and this is still the case today. The best way to admire the theatre is to attend a show; spectators will enjoy the semi-circular stalls, three tiers of galleries with seats and an upper gallery, beautiful stuccos and frescos decorating the whole interior and the richly embellished proscenium arch. The beautiful curtain dates back to the early 19th century and was painted by the Bolognese Antonio Muzzi. In 1907 the theatre was named after Carlo Goldoni because his dad had worked as a physician in Bagnacavallo for several years; Giulio Goldoni is buried in the church of San Girolamo.

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· BAGNACAVALLO ·

Palazzo VecchioPiazza della Libertà, 5This 13th century palace was built on the western side of the square when the Bolognese ruled Bagnacavallo; back then the local Podestà had his headquarters here, while today it hosts municipal offices and the tourist information centre. At the beginning of the 18th century a fire destroyed the palace, which was subsequently rebuilt with an additional floor. World War II bombing damaged it again and Palazzo Vecchio was rebuilt in the early 1950s. The inner courtyard of the palace features one of the entrances to the basement tunnel that was part of the ancient fortress; in the courtyard there is also an Armenian memorial stone which was donated to the municipality in 1998. The ground floor of the building has a large public space that regularly hosts art exhibitions and meetings.

Torre CivicaNext to Palazzo Vecchio lies the civic tower, which was built in the second half of the 13th century and modified in the 16th

century, when the clock was also added. The scarp wall features a series of large nails that locals use to hang lost objects, so that the owners might find them again. Between the 17th and the 19th

century the tower was a prison and its three storeys were popularly called, from top to bottom, Inferno, Purgatorio and Paradiso.

The bandit Stefano Pelloni, known as "Il Passatore", was one of the most famous prisoners of the tower; he was here in 1849.

Chiesa del SuffragioVia Trento Trieste, 1This elegant 17th century Baroque church lies on the other side of Palazzo Vecchio. The entrance has a portico with limestone columns. The interior houses a sumptuous 18th century wooden choir. The church is open for worshipping, but it also hosts exhibitions and concerts throughout the year.

antica galleriaVia Trento Trieste - Open every day, 10:00 - 18:00This basement tunnel connects via Trento Trieste with the inner courtyard of Palazzo Vecchio; it used to be part of the underground area of the former convent of the Jesuits but has always been a public passageway.

Collegiata di San Michele arcangeloThe church is located between piazza della Libertà and the beginning of Via Mazzini. Originally a 12th century church, it was rebuilt in the 17th century and granted the title of "collegiate" by Pope Benedict XIV in 1741. The presbytery houses a remarkable altarpiece by the local painter Bartolomeo Ramenghi (1484 - 1542), depicting Christ on a throne of clouds with Saints Archangel Michael, John the Baptist, Bernardino and Peter the Apostle.

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Palazzo delle Opere PieVia Mazzini, 3The palace was erected in 1728 and was meant to be the residence of the bishop in case of long stays in Bagnacavallo. However the cardinal was not in favour of long periods of absence of the bishop from Faenza, therefore the building became property of the charitable institutions Sacro Monte and Congregazione delle Opere Pie.

Palazzo Longanesi CattaniVia Mazzini, 18It's an 18th century building with an elegant portico in the façade; the inner courtyard still has the stables. The building at Via Mazzini 24 bears a sundial designed by artist Remo Brindisi and made of stone from San Gottardo.

· BAGNACAVALLO ·

VIa MaZZINIVia Mazzini is a street with a high concentration of some of the most

important palaces and churches in Bagnacavallo.

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Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pace (or del Carmine)Via Mazzini, 33The church was built between 1704 and 1759 with Baroque and Neoclassical elements. The first chapel on the right houses The Altarpiece of the Rosary, an important painting by Giovan Battista Ramenghi (1521 - 1601).

Vicolo degli amoriThis characteristic passageway links the little square of Chiesa del Carmine with via Vecchia Darsena.It lies just next to the former monastery of the Carmelite monks. The name comes from the hospice for women in trouble which used to be here in the 19th century, known as "Conservatorio per le fanciulle pericolanti", which sheltered young single mothers.

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· BAGNACAVALLO ·

Palazzo FolicaldiVia Mazzini, 100The 17th century palace has a brick façade and scarp walls; an additional storey was added in the 19th century. On the second floor there is a private chapel built for the bishop Giovanni Benedetto Folicaldi. The palace boasts Pope Pius IX amongst its guests; the Pope stayed here in 1857 during his visit to Romagna. At the beginning of the 17th

century the building belonged to Lazzari; the son of this family insistently courted a young woman who worked with silk at Folicaldi's. As Mrs Folicaldi strongly opposed the young man visits to the house, he had a violent reaction and stabbed her; she died and he went into hiding. The old Lazzari wanted to avoid the explosion of a spiral of violence between the two families and pleaded for forgiveness; as a reconciliation act he donated the palace to Paolo Folicaldi, and so the building was renamed Palazzo Folicaldi.

Palazzo abbondanzaVia Mazzini, 45/AIt was built in 1675 to house the warehouse of the town's food administration body. It has also housed the first public theatre of the town, a public hostel and the barracks. The memorial stone above the door is a memento of its original function.

Porta SuperioreThe 18th century town gate is decorated on the outside and was erected on the remains of the former fortress gate.

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CaSTELLaCCIOVia Baracca

The 15th century fortified building has a

very simple brick façade and scarp walls with a

rounded frame.

· BAGNACAVALLO ·

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VIa GaRIBaLDIA walk in Via Garibaldi almost equals to a journey through the centuries,

given the amount of buildings from differenthistorical periods that can be seen here.

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Porticato of via GaribaldiThe third and the fourth sections of the portico feature segmental arches; these are the last traces of the 15th century portico made of terracotta.

Palazzo GradenigoVia Garibaldi, corner with via FariniThe entrance vault bears the coat of arms of the Venetian family that built the 18th century palace. The building was modified over the centuries; it has a remarkable portico in via Farini.

Palazzo MassariVia Garibaldi / via TaglioniNext to Palazzo Gradenigo lies this imposing 17th - 18th century palace; the rear part of the building overlooks via Taglioni.

TorracciaVia Garibaldi, 27The 13th century tower is one of the oldest buildings of the town centre. The building plan has a square structure, scarp walls and a terracotta frame.

Chiesa e Convento di San GiovanniVia Garibaldi, 29Built in 1336, it originally housed the monastery of the Camaldolites. It was rebuilt after the 1688 earthquake and in 1816 it became property of the Capuchin nuns; they are still the owners. Its girls' boarding school was renown in the early 19th century; it hosted Allegra, daughter of George Gordon Byron, and the memorial stone at the convent entrance commemorates the event: "In this convent of S. Giovanni

· BAGNACAVALLO ·

Battista Lord Byron placed his daughter on the 22nd of January 1821. During the month of August, P.B. Shelley visited Allegra and found her healthy and happy, unaware that the following 20th of April she would die at the age of five years and three months".

Sacrario dei Caduti (or Chiesa dei Battuti Bianchi)Via GaribaldiThe friars Battuti Bianchi established the church in 1399; in the 18th century it was rebuilt and the municipality bought it in 1908. It is a church used for worship and it commemorates the victims of wars. It houses a precious 18th century canvas depicting the Madonna of the Immaculate Conception.

Palazzo TesorieriVia Garibaldi, 75The 17th century palace used to be the main building of the former convent of the Clarisse. The inner courtyard still features the lancet arches of the ancient cloister and the old mill.

Porta PieveThe town gate lies on the edge of the historic town centre; it bears a memorial stone which reveals that the gate was rebuilt in 1836.

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5VIA GARZONI

This narrow and characteristic lane is home to Palazzo Liverani, at no.6, and Palazzo Randi, at no.16.

Chiesa di San GirolamoVia Garzoni

It was built in 1450 and modified over the course of the following two centuries. Not to be missed: the

16th century wooden crucifix, The Incredulity of Saint Thomas painted by Giovan Battista Ramenghi, and the tomb of Giulio Goldoni, father of playwright

Carlo and physician in Bagnacavallo.

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· BAGNACAVALLO ·

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MUSEO CIVICO DELLE CAPPUCCINEVia Vittorio Veneto, 1/A - Opening hours: Monday to Saturday 10:00 - 12:00 and 15:00 - 18:00 (winter); 16:00 - 19:00 (summer); Sunday and public holidays: 10:00 - 12:00 and 15:00 - 18:00 (winter), 16:00 - 19:00 (summer); closed: Monday, the day after a public holiday, August 1-25 Free admission - Tel. +39 0545 280912 / 3 / 4 - www.centrolecappuccine.itThe museum is located in the former convent of the Capuchin nuns; the old vegetable garden of the nuns was converted into a public green area. The building houses important ancient and modern art collections, the library and a remarkable historical archive. Worth of mention are the rooms with Enzo Morelli's work (a contemporary painter born here) and the library collections dedicated to famous local writers: Thomaso Garzoni and Leo Longanesi. The Gabinetto delle Stampe Antiche e Moderne is the prints collection, featuring a flourishing exhibition programme; the Louvre museum has recently requested a copy of the collection's Repertorio degli incisori italiani. There is also a wide gallery for contemporary art exhibitions.

PALAZZO RUSCONIVia Armando Diaz, 21This 17th century palace has a sober façade with scarp walls and terracotta frames.

PALAZZO GRAZIANI E ORTO BOTANICOVia Armando Diaz, 35 - Opening hours of the garden, Monday to Saturday: 09:30 - 17:00 (winter); 08:30 - 22:00 (summer); Sunday and public holidays: 09:30 - 17:00 (winter); 08:30 - 22:00 (summer) Free admissionThis 18th century palace is famous for its richly decorated façade and for the largest walled green area of the town; known as "Giardino dei Semplici" (Hortus Semplicium), this is the last botanical garden in Bagnacavallo. It has four areas: Umbraculum (for relaxation and meditation), Pomarium (with fruit trees), Hortus Holerorum (with plants used for food preparation) and Hortus Sanitatis (with officinal plants). "Il Giardino degli Aforismi" is a series of benches decorated with aphorisms celebrating the scathing humour of the writer, graphic designer, journalist and publisher Leo Longanesi.

CHIESA DELLA MISERICORDIAVia Armando Diaz, corner with Via BrandoliniHome to the brotherhood known as "Confraternita della Buona Morte", the 16th century building was restored the following century with a Baroque style.

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PALAZZO CAPRAVia Matteotti, 29The 17th century palace is one of the most beautiful in Bagnacavallo. Christina Queen of Sweden stayed here in 1662 while on her way to Rome.

PIAZZA NUOVA (see page 57)

CHIESA E CONVENTO DI SAN FRANCESCOPiazza Carducci - The church is open on Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 16:00 - 18:00 (summer); 15:00 - 17:00 (winter)Originally this was a 13th century building; it was modified several times and rebuilt in the 18th century. After years of neglect, the monastery and its beautiful cloister have been carefully restored and reopened in 2000. The monastery houses a hostel for tourists and a series of rooms, amongst which Sala Oriani, the wide Franciscan refectory completed in 1766, with wooden seats and precious paintings. Sala Oriani and the other rooms host exhibitions, meetings, seminars, literary events and film screenings. The church contains the image of the Blessed Virgin of Jerusalem brought to Bagnacavallo by the monk Giovan Battista de Marabesi from the Holy Land; it also houses the tombstone bas-relief of Tiberto VI Brandolini.

PIEVE DI SAN PIETRO IN SYLVIS (see page 57)

PODERE PANTALEONE (see page 155)

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COMPLESSO MONUMENTALE DI VILLA SAVOIAVia Reale, 43 (Glorie) - Tel. +39 0544 521431The imposing stately home is about 9 km from Bagnacavallo on the main road SS16 via Reale which leads to Ravenna. It was built between the 17th and the 18th century to dominate the surrounding countryside, which was full of marshes back then. The building includes an oratory with elegant Baroque decorations and a parsonage, which is inside the palace; the main hall of the building boasts two large frescos by Tomaso Bibiena. Villa Savoia is property of the diocese of Faenza.

LA TORREVia Traversara (Traversara)The tower lies in the middle of the countryside and was built in 1371 for the Counts Hercolani of Traversara. When the Hercolani moved their official residence into a new palace in the heart of Bagnacavallo, this became their summer house; the Counts used it until the 19th century. The tower was modified in 1717 and in 1736; in 1944 it was damaged by bombs and then partly rebuilt.

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in the area

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Via Pieve Masiera -

Opening

hours: from 01/05 to

30/09,

Friday and Saturday,

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iday and

Saturday, 14:30 - 16

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16:30 - 18:30; from

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This is one of the best preserved Romanesque parish churches of the

Province of Ravenna; it is about 1 km from the historic town centre of

Bagnacavallo. It was built in the 7th century and its name indicates that

this church was originally nearby a wood. It has a very simple structure with

a central nave and one aisle at each side of it; the apse is circular in the

church interior and polygonal outside.

The left aisle features a series of memorial stones and the remains of an

interesting ciborium. The apse has some remarkable 14th century frescos

ascribed to Pietro da Rimini. The other walls and the pillars bear traces

of 15th century frescos. Legend has it that, on his way to Ravenna, Dante

Alighieri stopped here to pray. As a matter of fact, it seems possible that

near the parish there was a port on the wetlands, which connected Ravenna

with the inland towns.

The Ferrarese painters that decorated the parish in the 15th century

created a Madonna, depicted on a throne with the child, with a profile that

distinctively resembles that of the famous poet; this can be seen on the

third pillar on the left. If the reference were true, we could hypothesise that

the painters wanted to pay homage to Dante Alighieri and his visit.

PIEVE

DI SAN PIETRO

IN SYLVIS

P I A Z Z A N U O V AThis unique oval square is one of the most characteristic architectural features of Bagnacavallo. It was built in 1758 and used to be a market place for the sale of meat, fish and oil. The outside of the building has a brick façade and the inside has a portico with round arches running along the whole perimeter of the square; this portico houses several shops. It is a very romantic place and visitors can have very different experiences here. If it's quiet and the weather is misty the place has almost a metaphysical atmosphere; on the contrary, during one of the local food and wine events that often take place here, the square becomes a lively theatre staging the excellence of local produce.

not to be missed

ECOMUSEO CIVILTÀ PALUSTRELargo Tre Giunchi, 1 and via Ungaretti (Villanova di Bagnacavallo)Tel. +39 0545 47122; e-mail barangani@racine.ra.it - www.erbepalustri.it

This museum has saved the memory, the heritage and the skills related to the craftsmanship that is unique and specific to the small village of Villanova. This consists of the centuries old processing of local marsh plants to create objects. During the booming period, these handmade items were even exported to the United States. The weaving techniques at the heart of this craft are extremely rich and have very high cultural value. The museum houses a large collection of items created between the end of the 19th

century and 1950; objects are made with a variety of marsh plants (reed and sedge, for instance) and with local kinds of wood such as poplar and willow. This craft was actively developed by the locals from the 14th century till the second half of the 20th century and the museum is also particularly interested in understanding and documenting the technical side. The museum's educational department plays an active role within local environmental education projects and within those related to wetlands, in particular the Po Delta. Guided tours to the museum offer the possibility to see skilled artisans engaged in the creation of objects; the expert hands of these people still carry the poetry of tradition into the present. This museum is unique and features six displays, one of which is outdoors; this is called Etnoparco Villanova delle Capanne, it is located in Via Ungaretti, near the museum, and presents a selection of the main types of ancient huts that used to be built with local marsh plants and wood.

he placed his daughter Allegra (born out of a brief relationship with Claire Clairemont, stepsister of the famous Mary Shelley) in the care of the nuns of the convent of San Giovanni in Bagnacavallo, which was a renowned boarding school for young girls in those days. Not many people are aware of the fact that the municipal theatre is named after the illustrious playwright Carlo Goldoni because his dad, Giulio, worked as assistant physician in Bagnacavallo for a while. He died from a so-called malignant fever and was buried in the private chapel of the Gajani family in the church of San Girolamo. The near village of Boncellino is the birthplace of the infamous bandit Stefano Pelloni; popularly known as Passatore, he achieved the fame of some sort of "Robin Hood of Romagna". Bursôn is the name of a wine and of a type of local grape, unique in its kind, which was saved from extinction in the 1950s by the farsighted Longanesi, a family popularly nicknamed Bursôn. This full-bodied red wine is the king of all local produce safeguarded and advocated by the consortium "Il Bagnacavallo", whose range of typical local products includes vinegar, grappa, saba (grape must syrup), honey, meat and traditional cakes such as sugal (made with must), savòr (made with quinces), mistochine and piadot (made with chestnut flour) and dolce di San Michele (made with a secret recipe). These delicacies can be enjoyed during one of the many feast and events that enliven Bagnacavallo. The town is also famous for its "Circo della Pace", a circus with spectacular performers from all over the world, which is set up every Christmas in the heart of the historic town centre.

Bagnacavallo has been mentioned by important writers, such as Dante, for instance. The 14th canto of Purgatorio reads: "Ben fa Bagnacaval che non rifiglia, e mal fa Castrocaro, e peggio Conio che di figliar tai conti più s'mpiglia". The sarcastic statement praises the Counts Malvicini from Bagnacavallo and their lack of male heirs (and their incapacity to generate any). Probably Dante’s point of view isn't determined by a personal relationship with the Malvicini; it is more likely that he’s motivated by a sense of disapproval for the influence of the Papal States over Romagna. The poet was less harsh with Bagnacavallo than with other towns of Romagna, possibly because Caterina Malvicini married Guido Novello Da Polenta, a member of the family that hosted Dante in Ravenna till the end of his life. Bagnacavallo is linked to another eminent writer: George Gordon Byron. While the poet was staying in Ravenna,

Interesting facts andfolklore

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· BAGNACAVALLO ·

shoppingSHOPSThe historic town centre of Bagnacavallo offers many shopping opportunities, especially in the area included within via Fossa, via Zamprante, via Vecchia Darsena and via Bedeschi.

MARKETS· Thursday, 08:00 - 13:00: largo De Gasperi - Weekly market· Saturday, 08:00 - 13:00: via Mazzini and piazza della Libertà - Weekly marketVillanova· Friday, 08:00 - 13:00: piazza Matteucci - Weekly market

main eventsDates are subject to change. For information please visit the website www.romagnadeste.it

1st SUNDAY of MARCH, APRIL AND MAY - Villanova di Bagnacavallo - La Soffitta in Piazza - Street market with vintage items, collectables, arts and craft, natural productsTel. +39 0545 47122

MAY - Alla Corte di Bacco - A month-long event dedicated to traditional food and wine, with taverns in Piazza della Libertà featuring local produce, with tastings of the best local wine, the competition for the best Bursôn IGT. And also: concerts, folklore dancing, street markets and guided tours of the town with horse drawn carriage - Tel. +39 0545 280898

JUNE, JULY, AUGUST - Bagnacavallo d'Estate Street shows, art exhibitions, night cycling itineraries, library night events, street markets, meetings and folk feasts

JUNE, JULY, AUGUST - Bagnacavallo al Cinema - Long-running arthouse films showcase, screening excellent Italian and foreign films, unusual and new work by emerging filmmakers, Q&A with film directors. In the beautiful Parco delle Cappuccine Tel. +39 347 1819575 - www.arenabagnacavallo.com

2nd of SEPTEMBER - Villanova di Bagnacavallo - Sagra della Civiltà delle Erbe Palustri - Celebration of the traditional craftsmanship of marsh plants and local wood - Tel. +39 0545 47122 - www.erbepalustri.it

LAST WEEK of SEPTEMBER - Festa di San Michele It dates back to the 13th century; it is the oldest feast in

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Bagnacavallo and represents an excellent opportunity to discover the charm of this ancient and beautiful town. Special taverns in unusual places - Tel. +39 0545 280898

2nd OF OCTOBER - Villanova di Bagnacavallo - Villanova in Corto - Independent and low budget short film festival - www.villanovaincorto.net

From NOVEMBER to APRIL - Nuovo Cinema Bagnacavallo At Convento di San Francesco, film screenings for young people and arthouse films - Tel. +39 347 1819575

From DECEMBER 20 to JANUARY 6 - Il Circo della Pace The circus tent in piazza della Libertà hosts the spectacular acrobatics and solidarity of circus artists from various countries of the world - Tel. +39 0545 64330

From DECEMBER 20 to JANUARY 31 - Presepe di Villa Prati - Mechanical holy crib with special effects: figurines and backgrounds move throughout the day and at night

From OCTOBER to MAY La stagione del Teatro Goldoni

ALL YEAR LONG - Printmaking, modern and contemporary art exhibitions at Museo Civico delle Cappuccine

Tourist Information Centre Piazza della Libertà, 4 - Opening hours: Monday to Sunday, 09:30 - 12:30, on Saturday also 15:00 - 18:00 (DST)or 14:30 - 17:30 Tel. +39 0545 280898; fax +39 0545 280859 e-mail turismo@comune.bagnacavallo.ra.it www.romagnadeste.it www.comune.bagnacavallo.ra.it

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· BaGNaCaVaLLO ·

Bagnara di RomagnaDISCOVERING

· BaGNaRa DI ROMaGNa ·

how to get thereBagnara di Romagna is located southwest of Lugo. The provincial road SP36 links Bagnara with Lugo; this segment of the road is known as via Lunga.

medieval atmosphereBagnara lies within a network of secondary roads, called "stradelli Guelfi", that run parallel to via Emilia; in the past, this network of roads connected castles, churches and stately homes from Bologna to the Adriatic Sea. Bagnara di Romagna is still imbued with this atmosphere; it is a town in which past and present engage in a constant and fascinating dialogue. The local castrum represents a rare example of Medieval fortress that has been preserved in its integrity; today we can still admire the 15th century Rocca Sforzesca, with the imposing walls, the entrance tower, four small ramparts and the moat.

historyThe earliest place names of Bagnara are "Silva Bagnaria" or "Balnearia"; they relate to the presence of marshes, which were widely spread in the territory, as far as the rivers Reno

and Po. At the turn of the fist millennium the town occupied a site which was about 1 km southeast of the current one. Most historians believe that the settlement was destroyed on May the 8th 1222 following the defeat of Imola, owner of Bagnara, at the hands of Bologna and Faenza, which had formed an alliance. In the following centuries Bagnara went through a series of battles, lootings and negotiations between numerous powers that captured it through wars or received it as war indemnity. It was ruled by the bishop of Imola, by Uguccione della Faggiola, by various seigniories (Manfredi, Ordelaffi, Da Polenta, the Counts of Cunio, Visconti, Malatesta, Este); in the 15th century it was again property of the bishop of Imola, then it was ruled by Taddeo Manfredi, Galeazzo Sforza and Galeotto Manfredi. In 1482 it was ruled by Girolamo Riario, followed by the widow Caterina Sforza. It was conquered by Charles VIII of France and later by Cesare Borgia. From the 18th century till the Napoleonic period Bagnara was involved in the wars of succession that took place in Romagna; after this it went back to the Papal States until the unification of Italy. During World War II the town was affected, like all the municipalities of Bassa Romagna, and suffered several losses in terms of civilians and soldiers. This finally marked the end of the long sequence of battles suffered by this town throughout the centuries.

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ROCCA SFORZESCA (see page 69)

CHIESA ARCIPRETALE DI SAN GIOVANNI BATTISTA E SANT'ANDREA APOSTOLOPiazza IV Novembre, 2 - Tel. +39 0545 76054The church lies on the spot which was occupied by the oratory of San Giovanni; this is the heart of the historic town centre. It was erected in the 15th century, but later rebuilt and widened several times, in particular in 1653 and in the 18th century. The current façade presents a variety of styles and slightly neo-medieval features. The single-nave interior houses some precious artworks: the altarpiece and the high altar are by the famous artists Dalla Quercia from Imola, authors of valuable plaster works imitating marble. Worth of mention are also the statue of Madonna del Pubblico Voto, the christening font, the 15th century tabernacle, the 18th century organ, as well as a number of paintings and pieces of furniture. The parsonage hosts the Museo Storico Parrocchiale Mons. Alberto Mongardi, which can be visited by appointment; the museum houses

sacred art objects, including a wooden crucifix of the school of Donatello, a collection of devotional ceramics and the 16th century altarpiece Madonna and Saints by Innocenzo da Imola. The parsonage is also home to the Museo Storico Pietro Mascagni (visits by appointment); this is a fascinating museum for music lovers and for curious people alike. The collection features personal objects of the composer, autographed photos, his piano, his death mask, several music scores and 4,600 love letters (written between 1910 and 1944) addressed to the Bagnara born chorus singer Anna Lolli, Mascagni's muse and a great love of his life. The museum was created in 1975 when the letters were donated.

CHIESA DELLA NATIVITÀ DI MARIAVia Camangi - Visits by appointment or during concertsThis small church is located in the historic town centre and is used as an auditorium. It was built in 1452 on the ruins of an older oratory; it was then rebuilt after World War II. It has a simple architecture and is a great venue for the choir concerts that are often performed here.

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PRaTI DI SaNT’aNDREaVia Lunga - Tel. +39 0545 76907 Prati di Sant'Andrea (fields of Saint Andrew) is a rectangular motte located along Via Lunga (formerly known as via Longa), about 1 km from the town centre. This is the site of the ancient town of Bagnara (Castrum Balneariae); it is an extremely precious archaeological site and a great source of information about the early part of the Middle Ages. In 2005 excavations brought to light the remains of a small medieval village; all the findings that were unearthed are now kept in the museum of the fortress.

SaNTUaRIO DELLa BEaTa VERGINE DEL SOCCORSOVia Madonna, 75 - Tel. +39 0545 76054The sanctuary is 2 km from the town centre, towards Lugo. It was designed by the architect Cosimo Morelli in 1776. It houses a painted terracotta depicting the Madonna with child, the icon that has been worshipped for centuries by pilgrims; the statue, once hanging from an oak tree, was allegedly capable of turning the muddy water of a pond

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into miraculous water. Sceptics will nonetheless admire the remarkable façade designed by Ricciarelli and the altar made of plaster imitating marble, also created by the brothers Della Quercia, like the artworks in the parish.

VILLa MORSIaNIVia Pigno, 16/1 - Tel. +39 0545 76138;e-mail giovannimorsiani@libero.itThis remarkable stately home is near the town centre. It lies inside a centuries old park, boasting several monumental trees, such as a 30 mt tall oak and a black poplar which is more than 40 mt tall. The villa was built in the 15th century as a fortified building; the remains of the defensive walls are the evidence of the original military function. The interior houses furniture and objects dating between the 15th and the 19th century; there are 16 fireplaces, one of which is a 15th century huge exemplar that almost occupies an entire room. This is the family home of the Morsiani and the headquarters of an important St. Bernard dogs breeding centre, which includes an international foundation for dog breeding studies.

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· BaGNaRa DI ROMaGNa ·

Tourist Information Centre Piazza Marconi - Opening hours: Monday to Friday,09:30 - 12:30; on Saturday, 09:00 - 11:00 Tel. +39 0545 905501; fax +39 0545 76636 e-mail turismo@comune.bagnaradiromagna.ra.it www.comune.bagnaradiromagna.ra.it

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shoppingSHOPSThe small and charming historic town centre offers various shopping opportunities with its characteristic small local shops. MARKETS· Monday morning: town centre - Weekly market

main eventsDates are subject to change. For information please visit the website www.romagnadeste.it

LAST OF JULY - Festa della Madonna del Pubblico VotoMusic concerts, antique cars and motorcycles meeting, food halls ALL YEAR LONG - Concerts and music events at the auditorium

not to be missed

ROCCA SFORZESCAPiazza IV Novembre, 3 - Opening hours: on Saturday, Sunday, public holidays and the preceding day, 10:00 - 13:00 and 15:00 - 18:00; July and August, 10:00 - 13:00

and 19:30 - 22:30; other days by appointment (maximum 30'), 10:00 - 13:00(tel. +39 0545 905501 / 76733); closed on Monday - Free admission; guided tours available (prior booking required), charges apply - Tel. +39 0545 905540 / 76733 /

905501; e-mail museodelcastello@comune.bagnaradiromagna.ra.itThis imposing fortress was built in the 15th century by the families Riario and Sforza, rulers of the town. The structure was erected on the ruins of a previous medieval castle, which had been built in 1354 by Barnabò Visconti; the original 14th century fortress was smaller and shorter and was the main defensive structure of the town. The current building has two symmetrical and identical towers, one facing east and one facing west; it is a remarkable example of military architecture featuring elements from the Middle Ages and from Renaissance. During the times of Caterina Sforza, the moat and the slits were modified, a beautiful portico was erected on three sides of the building, the donjon was built; the latter can be visited on top as well as in the basement. The eastern tower still retains elements from the earliest structure by Visconti. Defensive systems, such as murder holes, can still be seen; the courtyard has been recently restored. The main hall has eight remarkable 17th and 18th century paintings bequeathed by a Bolognese gentleman. The fortress' museum (Museo del Castello) features a collection of archaeological findings documenting the history of Bagnara and its territory from the Bronze Age till the Middle Ages; the museum has various sections, including history and art displays.

ConseliceDISCOVERING

· CONSELICE ·

how to get thereConselice is located northwest of Lugo, where the ending part of the road SP Selice - Montanara crosses the main road SS16. The town is about 15 km from the motorway A14.

the town of frogsConselice lies in a territory that used to be dominated by water and marshes. The town boasts a reputation for gastronomy related to this ecosystem, to the extent that it's known as the "town of frogs". Every year, at the beginning of Autumn, Conselice celebrates this gourmet delicacy with a renown feast.

historyThe earliest historical document about Conselice dates back to 1084; the place was known as Caput Silicis and was a port in the marshes of Po di Primaro, in the "Valle Padusa", a strategic location for commercial exchanges between Imola and Venice. The settlement started to grow around the fort and its mooring docks. The village of S. Patrizio grew up in a more salubrious location south of Conselice; it had a parish

church, woods and lands for pasture (in San Giovanni in Pentecaso) which were the cause of centuries-old quarrels with the neighbours in Massa Lombarda. Conselice was often flooded and its inhabitants used to find shelter in S.Patrizio; this led the two communities to merge in 1430. The town was ruled by the church and by the House of Este, but in 1460 it achieved a degree of autonomy by setting up its own municipal statute, which ranks amongst the oldest in Romagna. In 1598 the Pope Clement VIII declared the town "Castello della Delegazione di Ferrara", under the rule of the Prince of Ferrara, but still in his own control. Conselice also cultivated strong links with Imola's bishop. During the Napoleonic period the town was annexed to Massa Lombarda; in 1814 it became an independent municipality again and Rodolfo Vacchi was nominated podestà. The village of Lavezzola, which was once independent, joined Conselice. Over the centuries locals have maintained and created new canals, protecting the ancient mills canal and planting rice fields. However, major reclamation works only took place from the end of the 19th century onwards; the canal Destra Reno was created in 1930. When Conselice was annexed to the Kingdom of Savoy in 1859 it was a very poor community; it was only then that the town hall, the squares and the school were designed and the first segment

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· conselice ·

of the railway was opened by the MP Andrea Costa, thus connecting the area with the main towns of Romagna. The fact that two-thirds of the population lived in extreme poverty and worked in the harsh environment of the rice fields led to social unrest and violence in 1890. This was the beginning of 20th century economic development; workers' associations of "mutuo soccorso" started to provide welfare support. These were followed by workers cooperatives in Conselice and Lavezzola; the harsh economic landscape of the 19th century started to change. Thanks to the effort of the locals, rice fields and large estates gave way to great reclamation works and to a new economic system based on modern farms and flourishing small and medium businesses.

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CHIESA ARCIPRETALE DI SAN MARTINOPiazza F. ForestiThe church is located in the main square of the town and was built in 1830 on the ruins of an 11th century Romanesque church. It was designed by the architect Giuseppe Magistretti in 1820; it was consecrated in 1869 and decorated by the Ferrarese painter Augusto Paglierini in 1928. It houses an altarpiece, painted by the local 19th century artist Martino Vacchi, depicting the Saints Martin and Patrick; the oval Madonna and sleeping child is an 18th century painting of Bolognese school. The last chapel on the right has an interesting decoration on the theme of the rosary and was painted by Alessandro Scorzoni in 1880.

MONUMENTO A DON FRANCESCO GIANSTEFANIPiazza F. ForestiThe monument was created by Cesare Rabbi in 2004 to celebrate the decades-long effort of Father Francesco Gianstefani in helping the local population, from the '30s till the long and difficult reconstruction after World War II.

PALAZZO COMUNALEVia Garibaldi, 14The Neoclassical town hall was designed by the engineer Lorenzo Fontana and built in 1880. It has two storeys and a portico with five arches on the ground floor. The large windows and the decorated pilasters contribute to refine the façade.

TEATRO COMUNALE DI CONSELICEVia Selice, 125 - Tel. +39 348 7095919 - www.teatroconselice.itThe theatre originates from a former 1866 cholera ward. The building has typical 20th century architectural features. The theatre has a varied programme of entertainment and events, amongst which a theatre season directed by the famous actor Ivano Marescotti.

MONUMENTO AL RANOCCHIOVia PrestankowThis curious monument celebrates frogs, the protagonists of one of the oldest feasts in the region and important contributors to the local economy. The sculpture was created by Gian Piero Baldazzi and inaugurated in September 2000.

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MONUMENTO ALLE MONDINE E AGLI SCARIOLANTIVia Copernico, corner with via Di VittorioThe monument celebrates the earliest workers revolts and the rice weeders claims, which lead to the 1890 massacre, during the infamous "Settimana Rossa". The sculpture is by Luciano Caldari.

MONUMENTO ALLA LIBERTÀ DI STAMPAPiazza della Libertà di StampaThe monument celebrates press freedom; in particular, it's a memorial to the brave World War II clandestine printers and couriers of CNL. The sculpture was created out of an old printer activated by pedals; today it proudly reaffirms the importance of freedom of information in the history of Italian democracy.

PIAZZETTA GUARESCHIThis small and magic square lies along Via Buscaroli, near the main square. Inaugurated in October 2004, it features a series of mural paintings created by the stage designer Gino Pellegrini; the paintings depict the local rural landscape, events of the collective memory and images from the films based on Guareschi's novels.

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MAGAZZINO MANIFATTURA TABACCO E RISOVia Coronella (Tarabina di Chiesanuova) - Tel. +39 0545 980013Lovers of industrial archaeology should not miss this old building, which used to be a tobacco and rice factory and warehouse. It was probably built before 1877 and featured in the land register of the Kingdom of Italy. Today it houses a small museum with a display of objects related to World War II.

CHIESA DI SAN MAURELIOPiazza Caduti (Lavezzola)The church of San Maurelio was the original ancient centre of the village of Lavezzola. It was designed by Giovan Battista Aleotti and built at the end of the 16th century. In 1609 it became the parish of the area, following the request of Alfonso Lavezzoli; Pietro Aldobrandini, bishop of Ravenna, granted him the privilege of jus patronato.

CHIESA DI SAN PATRIZIOVia Mameli (San Patrizio)This 9th century parish is the earliest Romanesque church of the area; it was established by a group of Irish pilgrims that settled here and worshipped St. Patrick. The pilgrims first set up an aedicule and then erected the church; the building has been modified over the centuries and the current architectural features date back to the end of the 18th century, when the central nave was expanded and the façade and bell tower were rebuilt. The bell tower was embellished with a precious 19th century clock; the vaults and the apse were decorated by the Ferrarese painter Augusto Paglierini.

MULINO DI SAN PATRIZIOVia Selice, 2 (San Patrizio)The mill was built at the end of the 15th century and was owned by the Duke Francesco Pico della Mirandola; it was located along the mills' canal (Canale dei Molini) which connected San Patrizio with Imola. The two-storey building was erected across the canal; in the 1950s two rooms were added and one of these still hosts the old machinery of the mill.

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shoppingSHOPSConselice and Lavezzola feature a variety of typical shops with local produce, some of which sell high quality gastro-nomy such as "La Bottega del Vino e dei Sapori", which is specialised in wine, liqueurs and oil. MARKETS· Saturday morning: piazza Foresti - Weekly marketLavezzola · Saturday morning: town centre - Weekly market San Patrizio · Tuesday morning: town centre - Weekly market

main eventsDates are subject to change. For information please visit the website www.romagnadeste.it

FROM THE 1st DAY of LENT - Carnevale di San Grugnone - Carnival celebration starting on the first day of Lent and ending on the 2nd Sunday of Lent with a sparkling parade in the town centre. 3rd WEEK of MAY - Lavezzola - Sagra della Porchetta e del Tortellino - Gourmet event - Tel. +39 0545 986970

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· CONSELICE ·

URP and Tourist Information Centre Via Garibaldi, 14 - Opening hours: Monday to Saturday,08:00 - 13:00; Thursday, 08:00 - 18:00 Tel. +39 0545 986970; fax +39 0545 986967 e-mail urp@comune.conselice.ra.it www.comune.conselice.ra.it www.romagnadeste.it

JUNE - Carnevale dei fiori in notturnaTel. +39 0545 88067 JUNE - Motoraduno Femminile - Tel. +39 0545 89003 LAST of AUGUST - San Patrizio - Sagra del Tortellone Gourmet event 3rd WEEK of SEPTEMBER - Sagra del RanocchioGourmet event - Tel. +39 0545 986970 NOVEMBER 11 - San Martino - Celebration of the Patron Saint - Tel. +39 0545 986970

CotignolaDISCOVERING

· COTIGNOLa ·

how to get thereCotignola is located north of Lugo, where the provincial roads SP31 and SP8 meet.

the home and the feud of mercenary leadersThe first sight for visitors approaching Cotignola is the tower of John Hawkwood. Despite being a small town, Cotignola was actually the site of some important events in medieval history; the House of Sforza, one of the most important families of Renaissance, came from here.

historyThe presence of several archaeological findings and the network of Roman roads suggest that the town was inhabited in pre-Christian times. In the 13th century Cotignola saw intense and continuous fighting that became more heated during the first half of the 15th century. In 1376 the English mercenary leader John Hawkwood was granted some land by Pope Gregory XI, amongst which was

the stronghold of Cotignola; he strengthened the town's defences with ramparts and Cotignola became much more important. After this, the town was ruled by the House of Este for a brief period, then by the Counts of Cunio; their name is particularly linked to the village of Barbiano, where the counts moved and built a fortress after the destruction of their castle. The famous mercenary leader Alberico da Barbiano was a descendant of the Counts of Cunio. Muzio Attendolo Sforza was a soldier of the army of Alberico; in 1411 he received Cotignola from the Pope (who owned the town between 1409 and 1411). When Muzio died, the town was inherited by his eldest son Francesco, who went on to become the Duke of Milan. In 1495 the town was given the title of "Città" by Ludovico il Moro and the age of the House of Sforza was the period in which it underwent the most cultural and economic development. After this, it was ruled by the French, by the House of Este and then by the Pope until 1859. The name Cotignola probably comes from quinces (cotogna), a kind of fruit traditionally widely available in the area. During World War II the town was severely damaged by bombs; it was later rebuilt trying to preserve as much as possible of its original layout.

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PALAZZO SFORZACorso Sforza, 21 - Visits by appointment (tel. +39 0545 908870) and during temporary exhibitionsThe palace was built by Giovanni Attendoli in 1376 and was the residence of the Sforza when they ruled Cotignola. In 1892 it was declared national art historical monument, but it was destroyed by bombs during World War II. When it was rebuilt in 1962, the surviving original architectural features were restored; they included the terracotta coat of arms of the House of Sforza, which was the inspiration for the town's coat of arms. The inner courtyard features the columns of the portico and the beautiful stele of Caio Vario (A.D. 30 - 49). Today Palazzo Sforza hosts art exhibitions and events. It houses the historical archive and the most important part of Museo Varoli (which also includes the nearby Casa Varoli and the arts and craft school "Scuola Arte e Mestieri"); the museum collection includes paintings, terracotta and wood sculptures by the local artist Luigi Varoli (1889 - 1958) and his large papier-mâché heads, which are caricature portraits of people from Cotignola.

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in the areaCHIESA DI SAN FRANCESCO AND TOMB OF THE HOUSE OF SFORZAVia San Francesco, 15This Gothic-Romanesque church was built between 1484 and 1494; it is about 1 km from the town centre. It houses the mummified body of Beato Antonio Bonfadini, who died in 1482 and is commonly known as "the Saint of Cotignola". The interior features a series of 16th century frescos, by an unknown painter, and the Pietà ascribed to Gerolamo Marchesi; these art works have astonishingly survived the war bombing. The 15th century lunette depicting the Pietà by the Zaganelli brothers is all that remains of an altarpiece which is now in Milan, in the Brera art gallery. The chapel with the tomb of the Sforza was also designed by the Zaganelli; it predates the church, but the two buildings are linked by an elegant portico. The interior of the chapel is richly decorated with frescos, amongst which the recently uncovered ones in the apse, which have been ascribed to Marchesi.

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CHIESa PaRROCCHIaLE DI SaNTO STEFaNO PROTOMaRTIREVia Antica Pieve (Barbiano) - Tel. +39 0545 78043The village of Barbiano is definitely worth visiting because of this Neoclassical church; it was built in 1792 and designed by the architect Cosimo Morelli. The dome and the tall bell tower are the most interesting architectural features. The interior houses altarpieces by Felice Torelli (1666 - 1748), a painter from Verona, and a painting from the Bolognese school of Carracci.

PIEVE ROMaNICa DI BaRBIaNOVia Antica Pieve (Barbiano)This 10th century church lies next to the church of S. Stefano; it's built in the harmonious Romanesque style that is typical of the area of Ravenna. The church is well preserved and the exterior has been appropriately restored.

TORRE DI GIOVANNI ACUTOCorso Sforza, 24This tower is the symbol of Cotignola. It was built in 1376 by the English mercenary leader John Hawkwood, whose name in Italian is Giovanni Acuto; he received this town from Pope Gregory XI in 1370. German soldiers destroyed the tower in 1944; it was rebuilt in 1972 and had the town bell, known as E' Campanòn, reinstalled. The bronze bell was made by Pier Francesco Censori in 1616; it bears a relief decoration and the inscription: "Arma - Ignem - Excubias - Senium - Sontesque - Senatum - Jubila" (I ring for wars, for fire, for guards, for the river Senio, for brigands, for the senate, for celebrations).

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along the banks of the river, for pedestrians and cyclistsTel. +39 0544 866672 - www.nelseniodellamemoria.it

LAST of MAY - Palio di Alberico da Barbiano Historical re-enactment event - Tel. +39 0545 908871www.paliodialberico.it

2nd WEEK of JUNE - Limprovvisa - International Festival of the art of "commedia all'italiana" - www.teatrovivo.eu 1st of OCTOBER - Sagra del Vino Tipico / Cotignolarte Gourmet event and impromptu art competition Tel. +39 0545 908870

URP and Tourist Information Centre Corso Sforza, 24 - Opening hours: Monday to Friday,09:00 - 13:00; Tuesday and Thursday, 15:00 - 17:00 Tel. +39 0545 908871; fax +39 0545 908863 e-mail urp@comune.cotignola.ra.it www.comune.cotignola.ra.it www.romagnadeste.it

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shoppingSHOPSThe best shops can be found in the area of corso Sforza, via Garibaldi, via Carducci and piazza V. Emanuele II. In the village of Barbiano shops are mainly along via Manzoni.HISTORICAL SHOPS· Panificio Ballanti Davide - via Cavour, 15MARKETS· Friday morning: town centre - Weekly marketBarbiano· Tuesday morning: piazza Alberico - Weekly market

main eventsDates are subject to change. For information please visit the website www.romagnadeste.it

2nd HALF of MARCH - Segavecchia - Traditional feast Tel. +39 0545 42182

APRIL 25 - Nel Senio della Memoria - Remembrance day celebrating Battaglia del Senio, Resistance and the Constitution with theatre shows, music, history and tales

· COTIGNOLa ·

FusignanoDISCOVERING

· FUSIGNaNO ·

how to get thereFusignano is located northeast of Lugo; it is connected with the main roads SP8 and SP13 through a wide network of secondary roads.

arcangelo corelli's townBirthplace of the celebrated violinist Arcangelo Corelli, Fusignano is a pleasant small town immersed in the countryside of Romagna and calmly detached from the atmosphere of large towns.

historyThe town was known as Castrum Fusiniani; its owners, the Counts of Cunio, in 1250 decided to rebuild here the castle of Donigallia, which had perished in a flooding. Over the centuries its history was intertwined with that of the battles of power of its rulers, amongst which the seigniories of Visconti and Manfredi. However, it was the House of Este that allowed Fusignano to establish its identity; the town's symbol became the spindle (fuso, in Italian) which still features in the municipal coat of arms.

The town was part of the Papal States and here the Napoleonic period was more positively received than in other towns of the area. The citizens of Fusignano also took part in the Risorgimento quite actively.World War II caused severe destructions in Fusignano and the town was largely rebuilt and expanded.

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CHIESA ARCIPRETALE DI SAN GIOVANNI BATTISTAPiazza ArmandiThis church lies where there used to be a Medieval church which was completely destroyed during World War II in 1945. Designed by the architect Alberto Legnani, it was consecrated in 1956. It houses a series of precious artworks, including a 16th century painting depicting the Baptism of Christ (which has been ascribed to Dosso and Battista Dossi) and the local patron saint icon Beata Vergine Maria Patrona Fusiniani; legend has it that the Capuchin monk Francesco Acquaviva, who created this painting in 1570, painted the image while kneeling. The contemporary ceramicist Angelo Biancini is the author of decorations with symbols of Christ, they are located next to the door; he also created the ten capitals with the symbols of the Evangelists and with themes related to the Passion of Christ. The crucifix and the fourteen episodes of the Via Crucis are the work of Raoul Vistoli.

CHIESA DEL SUFFRAGIO (OR TEMPIO DEI CADUTI)Corso Emaldi - Visits during exhibitions, on 25/04 and by appointmentThe history of this church is stained with the blood of the fights between the local feudatories Corelli and Calcagnini.The Corelli had their palace on this land, which was destroyed by the Calcagnini following a brutal attack known as "Il

Guasto dei Calcagnini"; after the destruction, the palace was sprinkled with salt to prevent anything from growing there again. The Marquis Giulio Corelli wanted to put an end to the fight; he donated the land to the town and in 1753 the church was built thanks to the locals' voluntary donations. Following war destructions, the church was restored. Today it hosts concerts and exhibitions. The bell tower was completely rebuilt in 1955; it houses a ceramic sculpture of a Madonna, made by the artist Aleardo Lega from Faenza, and a bust of Arcangelo Corelli created by Raoul Vistoli. The church has two altars with important altarpieces by Benedetto Dal Buono, a painter from Lugo: The Madonna "del Buon Consiglio" with Saints, The Death of St. Joseph and The Virgin appearing to the dying St Anne.

MONUMENTO A CELIO CALCAGNINIPiazza CalcagniniThe monument was created at the beginning of the 19th century to celebrate Celio Calcagnini, a 15th century scientist who was also mentioned by Ariosto. Originally the monument was located in the woods of Palazzo Calcagnini. It consists of an urn in the style of Canova. The Calcagnini family donated the monument to the town after World War II, to celebrate their long-standing relationship with Fusignano.

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MUSEO CIVICO SAN ROCCOVia Monti, 4/A - Opening hours: Saturday, Sunday and public holidays, 15:00 - 18:00; extended opening hours during temporary exhibitions; closed 25/12, 01/01 and 15/08 - Free admissionTel. +39 0545 51621 / 955672The museum is located along the main road of the town centre; it’s hosted in the former 16th century hospital of San Rocco. It houses the "Collezione Amelia e Vincenzo Baroni", a remarkable collection of ceramic votive plaques, featuring more than 200 items, produced between the 16th and the 20th century in Italy and abroad. Not to be missed: the rare Madonna and child produced in Rimini in 1660 and the one created in 1661 in Montelupo.

MUSEO ROMAGNA AIR FINDERSVia Santa Barbara, 4/A - Opening hours: first and second Sunday of the month, 14:30 - 17:30 - Tel. +39 348 6719811 / +39 0545 955653The museum is housed in a small deconsecrated church of the town centre and features military objects from World War II, such as uniforms, weapons, documents and various other items. The curators of the collection are the members of the association Romagna Air Finders, who actively search for the items; so far they have uncovered eighteen aircrafts and eight corpses of pilots. The museum is geared towards military

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CHIESA PARROCCHIALE DI SAN SAVINOVia Viola, 6 (San Savino) - Tel. +39 0545 50173The church boasts a monumental marble sarcophagus that makes it worth visiting the village of San Savino. It dates back to A.D. 440 - 450 and is decorated on three of its sides; the front features the monogram of Constantine and two lambs, the right side has two peacocks drinking from a vase and the left side has two doves on a vine branch adoring the cross. Despite the sarcophagus' name, there is no historical evidence that it actually ever accommodated the corpse of St Savino, who suffered martyrdom and was buried in Spoleto. In 1443 Astorgio II Manfredi collected human remains from the sarcophagus and took them to Faenza; the remains were thought to belong to the saint. The church also houses a baptistery, a statue of St Savino by the artist Raoul Vistoli and the Via Crucis made by the ceramists Cornacchia from Brisighella in 1982.

VILLA MONTIVia Breda, 1 (Maiano Monti)Located in the village of Maiano Monti, the villa was property of the family of the famous Neoclassical poet Vincenzo Monti (1754-1828) from when he was 17; the Monti held it till 1914. The house was erected in 1737 and the façade bears a plaque with words by the collector Carlo Piancastelli commemorating the 100th anniversary of the birth of Vincenzo Monti.

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enthusiasts as well as younger generations, with the aim of keeping alive the memory of the horrors of war.

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MAY - Il Suono Antico - Baroque music concerts dedicated to Arcangelo Corelli - Tel. +39 0545 955653 SEPTEMBER 8 - Otto Settembre a Fusignano - Traditional Patron Saint celebration - Tel. +39 0545 53335 DECEMBER 8 - È Festa Ragazzi - Art, shows, music, gastronomy, Christmas market and children entertainment in the town centre - Tel. +39 0545 955653

Tourist Information Centre Corso Emaldi, 115 - Opening hours: Monday to Friday, 09:00 - 12:45; Saturday, 09:00 - 12:00; in winter also Tuesday, 15:00 - 17:00 Tel. +39 0545 955653; fax +39 0545 50164 e-mail urp@comune.fusignano.ra.it www.comune.fusignano.ra.it www.romagnadeste.it

shoppingSHOPSThe majority of shops can be found in the town centre in corso Emaldi, via Monti, piazza Corelli, piazza Armandi and via Cesare Battisti.HISTORICAL SHOPS· Antonio Martuzzi (barber shop) - Corso Emaldi, 80MARKETS· Tuesday, 08:00 - 13:00: piazza Armandi - Weekly market · Friday, 08:00 - 13:00: town centre - Weekly market· Mercatini delle feste - public holidays street market with antiques, arts and crafts, collectables, gastronomy, enlivened by events and art exhibitions - 25/04, 01/05, 02/06, 07 and 08/09, 08/12, from 09:00 till the evening: corso Emaldi - Tel. +39 0545 27548 / +39 348 9030832; e-mail info@expositionservice.it· I mercatini del lunedì sera - Monday night street market, in July and August, from 19:00: piazza Corelli and town centre

main eventsDates are subject to change. For information please visit the website www.romagnadeste.it

· FUSIGNaNO ·

LugoDISCOVERING

· LUGO ·

how to get thereLugo is located where the provincial road Felisio SP7 meets the provincial road San Vitale SP253R, which connects Bologna with Ravenna.

the heart of bassa romagnaSeen from the air Lugo looks like an aircraft. This might be fortuitous, but it's also extremely appropriate given that Francesco Baracca, the earliest and most important hero of Italian aviation, was born here. The roads and the squares of Lugo's historic town centre are beautifully atmospheric; here the visitor will encounter buildings dating from the 16th century till the 1930s.

historyThe hospitality that characterises this part of Romagna seems to stem from ancient times; remarkable archaeological finds from the Neolithic era were discovered in Lugo and they indicate that in the 5th millennium B.C. there was a village

belonging to the "Sasso-Fiorano" culture. The ongoing excavations continue to unearth numerous traces of Roman settlements. The first historical document mentioning the town however dates back to A.D. 782; the correspondence between Pope Adrian I and Charlemagne contains a reference to an estate called "fondo Cento", which is where Via Cento lies today. The name "Villa Lugi" appeared for the first time in a document in 1224; this is the origin of the place name Lugo. The forerunner of the current municipal coat of arms dates back to 1204, when it first appeared on top of the town's fortress. Back then, Lugo had been ruled by Frederick I Barbarossa and by the Counts of Cunio; later it was the property of Pope Innocent III and of the Archbishop Alberto of Ravenna. The town's coat of arms features a red shield with the silver cross of the Church of Ravenna; in the top left corner there is a flying dove with an olive twig in its mouth. During the 14th and the 15th century the ownership of Lugo was disputed between the Church and various seigniories, including the Da Polenta from Ravenna, the Pepoli from Bologna, the Visconti from Milan and the House of Este. The Este ruled the town for more than a century and a half and established it as the

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capital of their land in Romagna; they restored and widened the fortress and created a long-lasting cultural heritage. When the family died out, Lugo went back to the Church; this was the start of a relatively peaceful period characterised by a flourishing cultural and economic life, in which most of the town's present layout was shaped. During the 18th century the powerful town's merchants created the Pavaglione, an architecture specifically designed to host the established Wednesday market and the biennial fair. In modern times Lugo's citizens have demonstrated remarkable strength of character in critical situations. During Napoleonic invasions, Lugo was the only town in Romagna to fiercely oppose the French army; their resistance culminated in a revolt on the 30th of June 1796. While the town was under French rule, Lugo's illustrious citizen Giuseppe Compagnoni suggested the adoption of the tricolour banner as the Italian flag at the Parliament of the Cispadane Republic on January the 7th 1797. In 1859 Lugo's citizens voted in favour of the annexation of the town to the Kingdom of Sardinia, which subsequently became the Kingdom of Italy. During World War I the town became famous as the birthplace of the celebrated aviation hero Francesco Baracca. After World War II Lugo's citizens were presented with the award for "Valor Militare per la

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Guerra di Liberazione" for their remarkable endurance and their partisan activities; the town was awarded a bronze medal for "Valor Militare". In line with its history and its calling, the town is still a strong economic centre in the region, especially with regards to the commercialisation of Bassa Romagna's agricultural produce. The European Council recently awarded Lugo the "Bandiera d'Onore", a distinction presented to municipalities which have distinguished themselves by their active support for the European Union; the award confirms the long established tradition of cooperation which characterises the community.

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Rocca EstensePiazza Martiri della Libertà - Opening hours: Monday to Friday, 08:00 - 19:00; Saturday, 08:00 - 13:00 - Tel. +39 0545 38414 The magnificence and the architectural stateliness of the fortress are clearly evident; visitors will appreciate the sense of respect and fear that numerous conquerors must have felt over the centuries as they tried to attack it. This is clearly the centre of the town and it has been so for centuries; Lugo's landmark is a beautiful example of fortified architecture and it hosts the town hall. It was erected in the late part of the Middle Ages, almost certainly above the structure of a previous fortress. During the rule of the House of Este the fortress was extensively modified and, despite numerous subsequent additions and changes, the current

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things to see

PIaZZa DEI MaRTIRIThis square is really the heart of the historic town centre. Some of the most important buildings and monuments of Lugo overlook piazza dei Martiri,

which is also connected to other squares:piazza Baracca, piazzale Cavour, piazza Trisi.

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building corresponds to the Este design, with the imposing north-western tower, the so called "donjon of Uguccione della Faggiola". Worth of mention is the recently discovered "Salone Estense", a large hall located in the northern part of the building and an exemplar of Italian Renaissance architecture; built by the Este between 1437 and 1598, it features a precious wooden ceiling decorated with the coat of arms of the family and with symbols celebrating the exploits of Borso d'Este. Later additions include the fascinating hanging garden, which was created at the beginning of the 19th century; the access to the garden is from the inner courtyard of the fortress and it's definitely worth a visit. The portico on the eastern side was also erected in the early 19th century.

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Monumento a Francesco BaraccaPiazza BaraccaThe glorious monument to Francesco Baracca, the champion of Italian aviation during World War I, lies near the fortress. The artwork was commissioned right after the death of the hero by a committee headed by the Duke of Aosta; the chosen artist was the eminent sculptor Domenico Rambelli from Faenza. A night visit, when the square is quiet, will reveal the subtle interplay between the three sections of the monument: the statue of Baracca, the plinth and the large aircraft wing; this is made possible by skilful lighting. The monument took more than three years to design and almost six to complete; the artwork was inaugurated on the 21st of June 1936. The bronze statue of the aviator is six metres tall and rests on a plinth covered in travertine marble of Tivoli; the plinth is engraved with the dates and the names of the places in which the aviator won his battles. The immense wing is also made of travertine and bears the symbols of the two armed forces that he belonged to, the cavalry and the air force: the prancing horse with the motto "Ad Majora" and the hippogriff. Many critics consider this monument one of the greatest achievements of XX century Italian sculpture, because of its expressive and symbolic vigour.

Chiesa del Pio SuffragioVia della Libertà, 1The church is near piazza Baracca and has an elegant façade; it was built around 1620 on the ruins of the old oratory of San Giuseppe. The interior has three naves and is characterised by a rich baroque decoration, with stucco and with chiaroscuro drawings made by the local artist Cesare Ruina when the church was repaired in 1874 - 76. The church houses four precious oval artworks, which depict the evangelists, painted by Ignazio Stern (1680 - 1748); Stern is also the author of the canvases representing The Death of Saint Anne and The Death of Saint Joseph. The Madonna of the snow with the Saints Joseph and Michael and with praying souls is a painting by Benedetto Dal Buono. Worth of mention are also the Saint Joseph made in the sculpture workshop of Graziani in Faenza in 1874 and the statute of the Immaculate Virgin made by Bartolomeo Schedoni, a sculptor from Modena, in 1614.

Teatro RossiniPiazzale Cavour, 17 - Visits by appointment or during exhibitions and events - Tel. +39 0545 38540 - www.teatrorossini.it This is one of the most interesting traditional Italian theatres in the Emilia-Romagna region; it is partly similar to the

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municipal theatre of Bologna and they were both designed by Bibiena. It lies on the west side of Pavaglione, an area traditionally devoted to theatre events in Lugo since the middle of the 17th century. The core structure of the building was designed by Ambrogio Petrocchi and built in 1758 - 1760; the design of the inside of the theatre was created by Antonio Galli Bibiena from 1760 onwards. In 1859 the venue was named after Gioacchino Rossini; today the building still holds its original 18th century architectural features, characterised by the sober façade with pilasters. The theatre has four tiers of galleries with seats and an upper gallery; the stage is as big as the area occupied by seats in the stalls. Teatro Rossini was recently restored; the works uncovered beautiful 18th century stuccos and interesting frescos created by Leandro Marconi in 1819 in the galleries, when he modified the interior of the theatre and added the upper gallery. The frescos feature floral decorations and neoclassical elements painted in bright colours on a gray and blue background. Over the centuries, this building hasn't just been a venue for entertainment; it has also been the place where the most important social life and community events took place. Until the early 19th century the theatre hosted operas, comedies, plays, as well as parties. Highlights of the

theatre’s history are the performance of Nicolò Paganini in 1813 and the so-called "age of Rossini", from 1814 to 1840, when the theatre frequently presented work by the celebrated composer, whose relationship with Lugo is well know. In 1984 -1986 the theatre was restored and its programme of events was relaunched with an exciting programme that includes plays, symphony concerts, chamber music and operas; since then Teatro Rossini has played a relevant role in the town's cultural life and is one of the most important theatres in Emilia-Romagna.

Palazzo TrisiPiazza Trisi, 19 - Biblioteca Comunale Trisi: Tel. +39 0545 38556 / 400 / 568; e-mail trisi@comune.lugo.ra.it - www.bibliotecatrisi.it Palazzo Trisi lies next to the theatre; it houses the municipal culture offices and the municipal library, which has the same name of the building. The late 18th century palace was designed by the architect Cosimo Morelli; it houses more than 200,000 volumes, precious manuscripts, incunabula, early printed books, prints, drawings, photographs and antique postcards. This is one of the most important libraries of Bassa Romagna and has a relevant programme of cultural events and educational activities.

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Ex Oratorio di S. OnofrioPiazza TrisiThis is a former oratory, which was built in 1679 with a magnificent baroque architecture. The building is not a worship place, but has become a venue for exhibitions and cultural events. It houses remarkable canvases, stuccos and frescos by a number of artists, including Tommaso Missiroli, known as "il Villano", and Ignazio Stern; most of the works of art depict scenes from the life of Saint Onofrio. The cenotaph of Clemente Galanotti (the person that commissioned the oratory) is located just above the main door.

CHIESA DEL CARMINEVia Baracca, 1This baroque church is near Palazzo Trisi and Piazza Baracca; it was built in the middle of the 18th century on the site of a church which pre-dates 1264, because this date appears on a bell which is kept in the bell tower. The church has one nave and barrel vaults which are reinforced by large arches; Benedetto Dal Buono is the author of the frescos, of the four stuccos depicting the allegories of Faith, Hope, Charity and Humility and of the main altarpiece which features the town's patron saint, Saint Ilaro. The painting of the Virgin is by

Guidaccio da Imola and dates back to 1481; the 16th century Annunciation was painted by an unknown artist. The beautiful wooden choir was made in 1760 - 61 by the local craftsman Giovan Battista Spada. The pipe organ is also remarkable; it was installed in the church in 1797 by the Venetian maker Gaetano Callido and the young Gioacchino Rossini loved to play it. More recently the church has hosted performances by celebrated European musicians such Gustav Leonhardt.

CHIESA DELLA COLLEGIATA DEI SANTI FRANCESCO E ILAROPiazza Savonarola, 1Leaving the heart of town centre, visitors will find this church off the main street Via Baracca and beyond Via Codazzi; the church overlooks a small square and features a nice neoclassical portico which was designed by the architect Cosimo Morelli. The original church was gothic and was rebuilt after the 1688 earthquake. It has four chapels on each side and several 18th century works of art by local painters; the main altar is by Luigi Morelli and it houses the painting depicting St. Francis by Benedetto Del Buono. The 18th century organ is from Venice and was made in the workshop of Giovanni Ghinei.

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MUSEO FRANCESCO BARACCA (see page 107)

CHIESA DI S. FRANCESCO DI PAOLAVia Fermini, 37This neo-gothic church is about 400 mt from Piazza Baracca; it was built in 1890 on the ruins of a 14th century church. The bell tower is in the same style of that of Santa Croce in Florence. It's worth visiting this church especially for the 16th century painted terracotta sculpture Mourning over the Dead Christ, created by an anonymous Ferrarese artist.

VILLA MALERBIVia Emaldi, 51The early 19th century villa is located about 600 mt from Piazza Baracca, but used to be the rural residence of the family of the brothers Malerbi Giuseppe (1771 - 1849) and Luigi (1776 - 1843); they were musicians who ran a music school which was one of the most important in the region and Gioacchino Rossini was one of the their pupils. Today the building houses the municipal music school ("Scuola Comunale di Musica"). The neoclassical villa has a very characteristic façade with doric columns and a pediment.

MUSEO PERMANENTE DELLA MODACorso Garibaldi, 59 - Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday, 10:30 - 19:30, Monday, 15.00 - 19.30; closed: Sunday and Monday morning; open all day on the second Sunday of the month, 10.30 - 19.30 - Free admission - Tel. +39 0545 35200 - www.angelo.itThe museum is housed on one floor of the vintage clothing shop A.N.G.E.L.O Vintage Palace; it is a unique permanent collection dedicated to the fashion of the 20th century and the clothes on display can be rented. The collection holds more than 50,000 items which have been carefully selected; they include everyday garments, military uniforms, sport gear and evening dresses created for haute couture as well as for prêt-a-porter over the course of various decades. The collection is also a precious resource for fashion designers, musicians, filmmakers and journalists. A.N.G.E.L.O Vintage Palace often hosts temporary exhibitions alongside its permanent collection.

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11CaSa ROSSINIVia Giacomo Rocca, 14 - Visits by appointment and during exhibitions Tel. +39 0545 38556 / 38561The old house of the Rossini family is off the main road via Mazzini, few steps away from the heart of the town centre. The house once belonged to the grandfather of the composer Gioacchino, who inherited it in 1839. The building was recently restored thanks to the local Lions Club and is used as an art exhibition venue; the façade bears a memorial plaque with a Latin epigraph which celebrates the musician.

PARCO DEL LOTO (see page 160)Via Brignani, 9/1 and via Foro Boario, 42/3

CIMITERO EBRAICOVia di GiùThe Jewish cemetery can be found just outside the town centre and is the heritage of the centuries' long presence of this community in Lugo, from the 16th till the 20th century. 19th century tombs have inscriptions carved in two languages, while the older ones are only written in Hebrew; some bear images of coat of arms and long epigraphs, sometimes in the form of poems.

ORATORIO DI CROCE COPERTAVia Provinciale Cotignola - The oratory is just outside the town centre, beyond the railway underpass on Via Provinciale. Its large cycle of frescos dedicated to various popular saints makes it really unique in the region. It was painted between the first half of the 15th century and the early 16th century; in the 19th century the local painter Bertazzoni also added some decorations. The frescos present characteristics which are typical of late gothic style and of different areas of north Italy.

M U S E O B A R A C C AVia Baracca, 65 - Opening hours: 10:00 - 12:00 and 16:00 - 18:00; closed: 01/01, 15/05, 2nd and 3rd week of August, from 25/12 to 31/12

Admission: E1; concessions E0.50 - Tel. +39 0545 24821 / 38561e-mail museobaracca@comune.lugo.ra.it - www.museobaracca.it

A trip to Lugo should definitely include a visit to the museum dedicated to the town's most famous hero. It is located in the neoclassical palace in which Baracca was born; his father Enrico donated it to the municipality. The museum houses a collection of personal objects and belongings of Francesco Baracca, which include the aircraft Spad VII (1917) used by the aviator to achieve one of his thirty-four victories. The aircraft bears the coat of arms of the pilot, the prancing horse ("Cavallino Rampante"), which is known all over the world as the symbol of Enzo Ferrari's cars. The museum works together with the association of the friends of the museum ("Associazione Amici del Museo Francesco Baracca"), whose purpose is to do historical research and promote the collection.

CHIESA DI ASCENSIONEVia Fiumazzo, 115 (Ascensione)The church was built in 1534 and its frescos make it well worth a visit in the village of Ascensione; unfortunately the only complete frescos are those in the apse, but visitors will certainly admire the Ascension of Our Lord (in the front), the Resurrection (on the right), the Pentecost (on the left) and the Evangelists and their symbols (in the vault).

ANTICA PIEVE - CHIESA DI CAMPANILEVia Santa Maria in Fabriago (Santa Maria in Fabriago)This ancient church was once a Romanesque parish church and is located in the village of Santa Maria in Fabriago, which can be easily found thanks to the helpful road signs. The church stands out thanks to its characteristic cylindrical bell tower with lancet windows that are typical of the Byzantine style of Ravenna (9th century). The current church was erected in the 16th century on the ruins of two older ones; the interior has one nave and the apse is polygonal.

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Pavaglione is a unique building and practically a shopping centre ahead of its time; the imposing four-sided portico was designed by the Ferrarese Giuseppe Campana and completed in 1783 on the structure of a 16th century portico. It was created to host the flourishing market of silk worms, which was really thriving in Lugo in those days. According to some researches, the name of the building could derive from the Latin papilio or from the French papillon. Today Pavaglione still houses shops, workshops and fairs and the Wednesday market which is six centuries old. Traditionally, the building is also a venue for shows and entertainment; according to some documents, music operas were performed here in the late 17th century.

PAVAGLIONEPiazza Trisi

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· LUGO ·

Interesting facts andfolklore

Lugo must have been quite important in the middle ages because several writers mentioned the town in their books, such as Ludovico Ariosto (in the third canto of the Orlando Furioso), Niccolò Macchiavelli (Istorie Fiorentine) and Franco Sacchetti (Il Trecentonovelle). The town has always been renown as a place of commerce and trade, in particular it is famous for its market which is at least six centuries old; with more than six hundred sellers it is one of the biggest markets in Italy. Even the word "bancarotta" (bankrupt) seems to have local origins; merchants who were unable to pay debts to a bank would have their market stall (banco) destroyed as a punishment. It is quite interesting that one of the most famous victims of bankruptcy was originally from Lugo; Charles Ponzi, who became a naturalised American, is the creator of the homonymous fraud scheme which is still used for financial scams. Gianni Golfera is a local young man who is considered to have one of the most amazing mnemonic capacities in the world today; he is also the author of a method for improving the power of memory. Local great minds include heroes such as Agostino Codazzi, who is buried in the National Pantheon of Venezuela in Caracas for his actions during Simón Bolivar's revolution, and Giuseppe Compagnoni, the creator of the tricolour banner which is the predecessor of the Italian flag. The logo of one of the most famous Italian brands, Ferrari, comes from the coat of arms of the Lugo-born hero of the aviation Francesco Baracca.

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shoppingSHOPSThe area around Pavaglione is the ideal place for shopping.

HISTORICAL SHOPS (Pavaglione)· Tabaccheria del Pavaglione - Piazza Mazzini, 1· Cappelleria Minghetti - Piazza Mazzini, 51 - 52· Confezioni Liverani - Piazza Mazzini, 58 · Leonilde Contoli (fruit and vegetables) - Piazza Mazzini, 59· Forlani Calzature - Piazza Mazzini, 63 · Dragoni Donna (clothing shop) - Piazza Mazzini, 72· Dragoni Uomo (clothing shop) - Piazza Mazzini, 80· Orologeria Mainardi - Largo della Repubblica, 18

MARKETS· Wednesday: Logge Pavaglione / piazze Trisi, Cavour, 1° maggio, Martiri, Garibaldi, Baracca, XIII Giugno, Larghi Relencini, della Repubblica, Calderoni, Piazzale Baruzzi - Weekly market - General market, featuring also local and traditional arts and craft and items related to agriculture· Mercatino dell'antiquariato - Antique and collectors' market - 2nd week of the month from October to June, 08:00 - 20:00: Pavaglione

· Mercato del contadino - Local farmers' market - On Saturday, from November to May, 08:30 - 13:30: piazza 1° maggio· Biomarché - Organic farmers' market featuring food, wine, textiles, household items and eco-compatible building materials - Friday, 17:30 - 20:00: piazza Trisi· Lugo Dona - Christmas markets - Every Saturday in December, till Christmas, 10:00 - 20:00: Pavaglione San Bernardino di Lugo · Monday: piazza della Pace - Weekly marketVoltana· Tuesday: piazza dell'Unità - Weekly market{112}

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main eventsDates are subject to change. For information please visit the website www.romagnadeste.it

ALL YEAR LONG - Caffè Letterario - Meetings with writers - www.caffeletterariolugo.blogspot.com 3rd AFTER EASTER - Sagra di San Francesco Celebration of San Francesco di Paola, the town's Patron Saint MAY / JUNE - Lugo Opera Festival - Tel. +39 0545 38542 www.teatrorossini.it 2nd AND 3rd OF MAY- Contesa Estense and Palio della Caveja - Festa di Sant'Ilaro, (Lugo's Patron Saint), with fire works (May 15) - Tel. +39 0545 25248 - www.contesaestense.it

MAY / JUNE - Lugolosa - Gourmet event - Tel. +39 0545 38455 JULY - Lugo Musica Estate - Music eventwww.teatrorossini.it JULY - Lugocontemporanea - Art event www.lugocontemporanea.it

1st SUNDAY OF SEPTEMBER - Giro della Romagna Professional cyclists' competition - Tel. +39 0545 32997 LAST OF SEPTEMBER AND 1st OF OCTOBER Rombi di Passione - Cars and motorcycles meetingwww.rombidipassione.it OCTOBER 31 - La Notte di Halloween / La Piligrèna Traditional celebration with bonfire - Tel. +39 340 7270094 3rd SUNDAY OF NOVEMBER - Festa del Cavallino Rampante - Celebration of the symbol of Francesco Baracca and of Ferrari - Tel. +39 0545 38455 DECEMBER 31 - San Silvestro in Piazza - End of year celebration

Tourist Information Centre Largo Relencini, 1 - Opening hours: Monday to Friday,08:00 - 13:30; Tuesday and Thursday also 15:00 - 18:00; Saturday, 08:00 - 13:00; in Summer, Monday to Friday,07:45 - 13:30; Saturday, 07:45 - 13:00 Tel. +39 0545 38444 / 38455; fax: +39 0545 38371 e-mail urp@comune.lugo.ra.it www.comune.lugo.ra.it www.romagnadeste.it

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Massa LombardaDISCOVERING

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how to get thereMassa Lombarda is located west of Lugo, along the provincial road San Vitale SP253R.

the heart of fruit farmingMassa Lombarda is surrounded by fruit trees and has a very long tradition of hospitality. In 1251 the town gave shelter to eighty families that had escaped from the provinces of Brescia and Mantua, where they were oppressed; the families found refuge in what used to be a small village on the edge of the woods of Lugo. Today Massa Lombarda is a flourishing and hospitable town, renown for its gastronomy and for its fruit farming tradition. Between the end of the 19th century and the start of the 20th century, local farmers were the first pioneers of modern fruit farming techniques in Italy; they particularly focused on peaches and started to export their fruit to Europe. In 1927 the town hosted the second national fruit farming exposition ("Seconda Esposizione Nazionale di Frutticoltura"). Fruit is still very important in Massa Lombarda's present.

historyThe town of Massa Lombarda originates from a small rural village on the edge of the woods of Lugo, therefore it's hard to define the date of its foundation; however, it already existed in the 8th century. After the start of the Second Millenium various rulers fought against each others for the control of the town; these included the church, large landowners, seigniories and municipalities. 1251 is an important year because the town gave shelter to several refugees from Lombardy; as a consequence of this the name Massa Sancti Paoli was ditched for Massa dei Lombardi, which later became Massa Lombarda. In 1440 Pope Eugene IV sold the town to the House of Este, who held it till 1598; this was a flourishing period for Massa Lombarda, which also issued its own coins. After Napoleonic invasions, the town became part of the district of Rubicone and then returned to the Pope until 1859, when it was annexed to the Kingdom of Italy. Massa Lombarda gained the title of "città" in 1889. In the following decades the town pioneered modern fruit farming techniques and sugar beet cultivation. During fascism, local citizens that opposed the regime suffered

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harsh repression; the most brutal event was the killing of the families Baffè and Foletti, on the 17th of October 1944. Today Massa Lombarda is a flourishing agricultural and industrial district.

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Torre dell’OrologioThe tower is the symbol of the town and is located on the western side of the square. It was designed in the 18th century by Cosimo Morelli and has a very elegant architecture with arcades and small balconies in the upper part; it features a clock and a small dome at the very top. Next to the tower lies Palazzo Zaccaria Facchini, a beautiful palace which was also designed by Cosimo Morelli.

Palazzo ComunalePiazza Matteotti, 16The northern side of the square is occupied by the imposing town hall. The façade has a loggia with five arcades supported by rusticated columns with a smooth finishing and doric

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things to see

PIaZZa MaTTEOTTIThis square is the heart of the town and is home to historical buildings such

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pilasters on the sides. The large windows of the façade have simple classical frames with semi-circular tympana on top; the windows of the side of the building present a late-baroque architectural style.

CHIESA ARCIPRETALE DELLA CONVERSIONE DI SAN PAOLOVia Vittorio VenetoThe 16th century church is on the main street of the town centre; it was built on the ruins of an older church which was orientated in the opposite direction. The building has three naves and a beautiful and sober Romanesque architectural design; the church houses precious canvases and a remarkable 18th century wooden choir.

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CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINEVia RusticiThe main street is enriched by two more churches: the small late 18th century church of San Salvatore and the one dedicated to Santa Maria del Carmine; the latter was rebuilt in 1640 with a baroque style on the ruins of an older church which had perished in an earthquake. The church includes a convent and a cloister; it is one of the most beautiful baroque churches built by the Carmelites and is currently used as a venue for cultural events.

CENTRO CULTURALE CARLO VENTURINIViale Zaganelli, 2 - Open every day - Free admissionTel. +39 0545 81388; e-mail venturini@sbn.provincia.ra.itThe town's cultural centre is housed in a beautiful Art Nouveau palace which has only one floor. The early 20th

century building was originally created to host the nursery school Pueris Sacrum; it was recently restored and reopened in 2007 as a cultural centre. The venue is named after Carlo Venturini, a local 19th century physician and diplomat who donated his rich collection to the town; the collection includes antiquities, minerals, books, ceramics and various other works of art. The centre hosts a special display of this collection, alongside a painting gallery boasting artwork by Garofalo, Bastianino, Giambattista Bassi and Angelo Torchi; the centre

also includes the municipal library and the old library archive which features around 8,000 volumes.

MUSEO DELLA FRUTTICOLTURA ADOLFO BONVICINI (see page 121)

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SANTUARIO DELLA BEATA VERGINE DELLA CONSOLAZIONEVia CimiteroThis sanctuary is one of the oldest worship places in Massa Lombarda; it is located about 1 km from the town and is surrounded by peach trees. It was built between 1749 and 1813 with a typical neoclassical style; next to it lies the town's monumental cemetery, which ranks amongst the best preserved ones in the region. Both the sanctuary and the cemetery are definitely worth a visit for their striking architecture.

in the area6

SANTUARIO DELLA MADONNA DEL TREBEGHINOVia Trebeghino - Tel. +39 0545 81897This pretty 15th century sanctuary is a simple and small rural church surrounded by fruit trees; it is located just outside the town. It is also known as "Chiesa dell'Oppio" and has been recently restored. Legend has it that a farmer who was ploughing accidentally found the small image with the Madonna and child; he picked it up, carefully cleaned it and placed it on a large maple tree (known as "oppio" in the local dialect) that used to be on the spot where the church is. The legend maintains that the farmer found the field miraculously ploughed when he went back to work.

7NOT TO BE MISSEDMUSEO DELLA FRUTTICOLTURAADOLFO BONVICINIViale Amendola, 40 - Free admission Tel. +39 0545 985831; e-mailcultura@comune massalombarda.ra.it

The museum is dedicated to the modern history of local agriculture, in particular fruit farming; it was opened in 1983 and it’s located in a rural house which is known as Cà Rossa. The museum is named after Adolfo Bonvicini, a local businessman who was the pioneer in Italy of modern fruit farming. The collection has an ethnographic section about rural life and a display documenting the technological and economic progress of fruit farming which started in Massa Lombarda between the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century. Today this rural house is actually inside the town, due to the urban expansion that happened over recent decades; in summer the courtyard of the museum hosts cultural events.

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Interesting facts andfolklore

During the course of the 20th century the town has always been considered a particularly favourable place for seducing women; there are several popular anecdotes about young men from near towns coming to visit Massa Lombarda in order to meet local girls. The historical explanation of this might be found in the emancipation that took place here since the 1930s when women started to work in the fruit industry. Another factor is the longstanding presence of clubs and the town’s thriving nightlife. The town of Conselice has often poked fun at the locals by saying that people from Massa Lombarda boast "to have double" ("A Massa ne hanno il doppio"); this is just an example of parochialism and local pride that can be found here. Here there is still strong popular belief in relation to the warnings given by Saint Paul, the local patron saint; "segni di San Paolo" is a system of interpretation of the climate for the purpose of elaborating weather forecasts. In particular, the forecasts are based on the outcome of the weather of the first twenty-four days of the year, which are those preceding the celebration of the patron saint. Complex calculations determine precise forecasts for the entire year. The observation of the weather on the patron saint day gives a more general prediction of the year as a whole: the rain is a sign for plenty, the sun is a sign for famine, clouds predict an average year, wind indicates war and fog is the warning of an unhealthy year. The local patron saint celebration is called "San Pêval di Segn"; it celebrates this tradition and takes place at the end of January.

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General enquiry office for the public and Tourist Information Centre Via Saffi, 2 - Opening hours: Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 09:00 - 13:00; Tuesday and Thursday, 09:00 - 12:00 and15:00 - 17:00; Saturday, 09:00 - 11:30 Tel. +39 0545 985890; fax +39 0545 985888 e-mail comunicazioneascolto@comune.massalombarda.ra.it www.comune.massalombarda.ra.it www.romagnadeste.it

shoppingSHOPSVia Vittorio Veneto is the best street for shopping.MARKETS· Tuesday and Friday morning: piazza Mazzini - Weekly market · Il Mercatino dei Ricordi - Street market with second hand and vintage items, antiques and collectibles - Last Saturday of the month, from October to May, 08:00 - 17:00: piazza Matteotti

main eventsDates are subject to change. For information please visit the website www.romagnadeste.it

2nd HALF OF JANUARY - San Pêval di Segn - Celebration of the patron saint: exhibitions, cultural, social and sport events and the gourmet fair "Sagra del Sabadone" FEBRUARY / APRIL - All'Improvvisa in Spazi Insoliti Festival of the art of "commedia all'italiana"

MARCH / APRIL - Crossroads - International jazz festival

· MaSSa LOMBaRDa ·

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APRIL - MassaSonora - National meeting of improvisation and experimental music

JUNE / SEPTEMBER - Massa Estate - More than sixty summer events, including shows, film screenings and street markets

MID JULY - Riot Fest - The youth festival of Bassa Romagna: concerts and shows with guests of national relevanceTel. +39 0545 985831 / +39 340 2555174 - www.riotfest.it

END OF AUGUST / EARLY SEPTEMBER - La Sagra delle Sfogline - Impromptu pasta-making competitionTel. +39 0545 985890

SEPTEMBER - Festa della Ripresa Estense and Palio del Timone

NOVEMBER - Rassegna Corale "Città di Massa Lombarda" Choir music event - Tel. +39 0545 985831

RussiDISCOVERING

· RUSSI ·

how to get thereRussi is located northeast of Lugo, where the state road Ravegnana SS302 meets the provincial road SP5. The SS302 connects Russi with Ravenna.

castrum russiRussi is renowned for an important Roman archaeological site which dates back to the 1st century A.D., but the original nucleus of the town is the fortress, which was built by the Da Polenta and today lies in ruins. The town suffered severe damage in the 1688 earthquake, so most of the town centre is characterised by 18th century architecture. Russi has a remarkable historical heritage and is renowned for its traditional gastronomy which visitors can particularly enjoy during one of the numerous fairs that are held here during the year.

historyThe origins of Russi's first settlement and fortress are ancient. Two inhumation tombs (late 7th century - early 6th century

B.C.) were unearthed under the surface of the Roman Villa and they are the earliest evidence of non-Etruscan inhabitants in Romagna around the 7th century. Since then, the area has always been populated, which is probably why in the 13th

century the Da Polenta decided to build their fortress here; in the Middle Ages and during Renaissance, the fortress played an important role in the battles between different powers, which included the Manfredi, the Republic of Venice and the Pope. In 1512 the town was savagely attacked and conquered by the French and Ferrarese armies, which were led by the famous commander Gaston de Foix; in 1527 Russi was assaulted again and looted by the Landsknechts on their way to Rome. In the 18th century Russi was expanded and gradually lost its identity as a stronghold to become the town we know today. It's interesting to notice that the place name hasn't changed over the course of the centuries.

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· RUSSI ·

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Chiesa di Sant'apollinareThis church was rebuilt in the 18th century and designed by the architect Campidori. It houses a number of statues created by the famous sculptor Ballanti Graziani from Faenza. The main altar is a fine work of art made with precious marble; originally it was held in the church of the nuns of Corpus Domini in Ravenna.

Rocca e Museo CivicoOpen on Saturday, 09:00 - 12:00, or by appointmentThe fortress used to be the core of the ancient castrum built in the 14th century by Guido Da Polenta, lord of Ravenna. The fortress has been severely damaged by earthquakes and assaults over the course of the centuries; it had a square structure

· russi ·

things to see

PIaZZa FaRINIRussi's main square is named after Luigi Carlo Farini, an illustrious figure

who helped the town to achieve the title of "Città" in 1878. Most buildings overlooking the square date back to the 18th century

because the 1688 earthquake was very destructive.

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with four towers and a donjon, but today all that is left is the lower part of the donjon, which has been incorporated in the building of the former Maccabelli hospital. There are also remains of one of the towers and some ruins of the defensive walls. The town museum is located inside the fortress and includes a painting collection (with several important pieces from the art collections of the hospitals of the Province of Ravenna), the rooms "Sale della Città di Russi" (with artworks from the 18th till the 20th century), the collection of the Roman Villa (with 1st-2nd century A.D. objects unearthed during excavations in the archaeological site) and the archive "Fondo archivistico Alfredo Baccarini" (with documents, letters, books, medals and other objects that once belonged to the local famous engineer and politician).

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RACCOLTA DELL'ARTE CAMPANARIAVia D'Azeglio, 9 - Tel. 0544 580187 - Free admissionThis is a private collection of bells; it is located near the town gate Porta Nuova, in the house of Tino Babini, a passionate collector and researcher of local history and culture. He has studied and researched bells since he was young; over the years he has put together a collection which is unique in the region, featuring more than sixty exemplars, some of which are rare and some of which are made with traditional rural ceramic from Romagna.

CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA DEI SERVIVia TriesteThis pleasant 18th century church is in the town centre, just off via Garibaldi; it is also known as "chiesa dell'Addolorata", but the name "dei Servi" derives from the fact that it once belonged to the order of "Servi di Maria". The building was designed by the famous architect Gioacchino Tomba from Faenza and built in the middle of the 18th century on the ruins of a 15th century church, whose convent still partially stands next to the church. It houses stucco decorations and the 18th century statue of the "Madonna dei Sette Dolori", which is carried during the solemn procession that takes place every year on the second Sunday of September.

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VILLA ROMANA (see page 131)

PALAZZO SAN GIACOMO (see page 132)

MUSEO DELL'ARREDO CONTEMPORANEOStrada San Vitale, 253 (Godo) - Admission: E 5; concessions: E 3 (groups and students) Tel. +39 0544 419299 / +39 338 9586837 - www.museoarredocontemporaneo.comThe museum can be found on the main road that leads to Ravenna, about 3 km from the town. The unusual building which houses this remarkable collection of contemporary furniture was designed by Ettore Sottsass; the permanent collection is entitled "Brani di storia dell'arredo 1880-1980" and is a display of landmark pieces which have been selected to represent various historical periods. There is also a gallery which hosts temporary exhibitions about design.

in the area

Via Fiumazzo, 25 - Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, from 09:00 till one hour before dusk; Sunday and public holidays, from 14:00 till one hour before dusk; closed on 25/12, 01/01 and 01/05 - Admission: E 2; concessions E 1 (people aged between 18 and 25); free for under 18, for over 65, for teachers and students The archaeological site of the Roman Villa is 2 km from the town centre; this site was uncovered accidentally and is one of the most interesting and best preserved Roman sites in Northern Italy. Excavations began in 1938 and uncovered a site of 3,500 square metres which was inhabited between the Augustan Age and the 4th century. The villa was surrounded by a portico and included the residential home, with beautiful mosaic floors and wooden buildings, workshops and a spa, which has recently been unearthed. Next to the villa there is an education centre for visitors and the whole area is surrounded by the Oasi Ecologica della Villa Romana, a 13-hectare conservation area which has been established on the site of a former clay pit; the green area includes woods and a pond.

NOT TO BE MISSED7PIEVE DI SANTO STEFANO IN TEGURIO

Via Croce, 38 (Godo) - Opening hours: 07:00 - 19:00This church lies in the countryside, in the village of Godo, about 5 km from Russi and not far from the municipality of Ravenna. It was built in the 8th century and the overall structure is similar to the original one, despite the transformations operated from the 18th century onwards and the destruction caused by World War II. One of the external walls hasn't been modified and features the original pilasters and windows; the interior has stone columns with ancient capitals. The presbytery houses a crucifix which rests on the fragment of an ancient Byzantine capital.

PIEVE DI SAN PANCRAZIOVia Franguelline Nuove, 9 (San Pancrazio) - Opening hours: 08:00 - 18:00The parish is located in the village of San Pancrazio, which is about 4 km northwest of Russi, on the main road SP5. It was built at the end of the 8th century, but a legend maintains that it was commissioned by Galla Placidia, daughter of the emperor Theodosius I, in the year 437. The parish was quite transformed when it was repaired in 1945-46. The interior has three naves and on each side there are seven arches supported by columns. The bell tower was rebuilt in 1950 with a proto-Romanesque style.

MUSEO DELLA VITA CONTADINA IN ROMAGNAVia XVII Novembre, 2/A (San Pancrazio) - Opening hours: Thursday, 15:00 - 18:00, Sunday, 10:00 - 12:00; visits on other days by appointment; closed: 01/01, 25/12 and in August. Free admission - Tel. +39 0544 552172 / +39 335 8339996;e-mail vitacontadina@alice.itThe village of San Pancrazio, in which several rural traditions are still alive, is home to this ethnographic museum about rural life and culture. The extensive collection is divided into themes: wheat and bread, silk worms, milk and cheese, pork and wine. The archive of the museum has benefited from the audio and video publications of the cultural association "La Grama" since 1994.

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· RUSSI ·

PaLaZZO SaN GIaCOMOVia Carrarone Rasponi Visits with guided tours and during events

This stately home is one of the most beautiful and palatial summer residencies of Romagna; it is also known as "Palazzaccio" or as "Palazzo delle 365 finestre" (the 365 windows palace). It was built by the Count of Rasponi from Ravenna at the end of the 17th century, probably on the ruins of the medieval castle of Raffanara. The monumental palace features frescos with mythological and allegorical subjects; this is the largest 17th-18th century cycle of frescos of this kind in Romagna. The church of San Giacomo lies next to the palace. It was erected in 1757 and later restored by Cosimo Morelli; it houses the tombs of Federico Rasponi and of his wife the marquise Guerrieri Gonzaga. The palace was abandoned when the Rasponi family died out and then it was damaged by bombs during the war; its amazing scale and fascinating atmosphere have always intrigued artists. Apparently in the 1970s the painter Mattia Moreni used to work here in summer and used a bicycle to wander around the building.

Tourist Information Centre Via Cavour, 21 - Opening hours: Tuesday, Thursday and Friday, 08:30 - 13:00; Thursday also 15:00 - 18:00 Tel. +39 0544 587642/1; fax +39 0544 582237 e-mail cultura@comune.russi.ra.it www.comune.russi.ra.it www.romagnadeste.itl

shoppingSHOPSMost shops can be found in the town centre in the main square piazza Farini, corso Farini, piazza Dante, piazza Gramsci, via Cavour, via Garibaldi, via D'Azeglio and via Babini.HISTORICAL SHOPSGiuseppe Balelli (carpenter) - Via Garibaldi, 11MARKETSTuesday morning: piazza Farini, via Cavour and piazza Gramsci weekly market Friday morning: piazza Farini - weekly market Thursday, from 08:30 to 13:30: town centre - Mercato del Contadino - farmers' market Godo Thursday morning: piazza Baldini - weekly market San Pancrazio Wednesday morning: piazza Zauli - weekly market

main eventsDates are subject to change. For information please visit the website www.romagnadeste.it

· RUSSI ·

From JUNE to AUGUST - Russi Estate - Music, meetings with writers, children's library events, street shows and Taca Banda

1st of AUGUST - Festival Internazionale del Folklore International folklore festival with live music and dance performances from all over the world - Tel. +39 0544 581290

3rd WEEK of SEPTEMBER - Fira di Sett Dulur / Treppinfira - Traditional feast with acrobats and story-tellers DECEMBER and JANUARY - Libri Mai Mai Visti International competition and exhibition of prototypes of hand made and artistic books - Tel. +39 0544 580329 / 587641 www.vaca.it

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Sant'agata sul Santerno

DISCOVERING

· SaNT'aGaTa SUL SaNTERNO ·

how to get thereSant'Agata sul Santerno is located northwest of Lugo, where the provincial road San Vitale SP253R meets the SP13, also known as Via Bastia. The SP253R connects Sant'Agata with Ravenna.

an ancient castle on the river santernoThe history of Sant'Agata has always been closely linked with the river; Santerno was an important transport connection between Spina and Etruria since the Roman times. At the beginning of the 1st millennium an important castle was established here because of the strategic location of the place; today the remains of the fortress constitute the town centre.

historySant'Agata was established around the year 740 when the parish of Sancta Agatha, which is one of the oldest in the area, was built; in the 12th and 13th century the church was part of

the diocese of Faenza but now it is part of the diocese of Imola. Since its construction, the castle has been disputed between various lords of Romagna, of Ferrara, as well as by the Pope, because of its strategic location by the river Santerno. In 1440 the Pope Eugene IV sold the town, together with other lands, to the House of Este; the eagle of the Este still features in the municipality's coat of arms. When the House of Este died out, in 1598 Sant'Agata became part of the district of Ferrara. It was conquered by Napoleon's army in 1796 and in 1815 it was returned to the Pope; in 1859 it was annexed to the Kingdom of Italy. A royal decree in 1863 determined that the town's name should be Sant'Agata sul Santerno. Both World Wars brought great suffering to its citizens.

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· SaNT'aGaTa ·· SaNT'aGaTa SUL SaNTERNO ·

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Torre dell'OrologioOne of the two entrance towers of the castle has partially survived and has been transformed into the clock tower. Here it is commonly known as "La Porta" and its image also features in the town's coat of arms; the bell of the tower is know as "la campana della ragione" (the bell of reason) since 1487, because it was used to gather all the citizens.

Chiesa arcipretale S. agata This church is just behind the tower; it was designed by the architect Pritelli and built in 1881 on the ruins of a Renaissance church. The sacristy was built with the remains of the old church, whose façade might have been designed

things to see

PIaZZa GaRIBaLDIThis is the main square and the original site

of the famous medieval castle; some say that the fortresswas commissioned by Frederick I Barbarossa.

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by Bramantino; the external wall of the church, on the west side of the building, features a portion of the original cornice, which dates back to 1494. The church has a Latin cross plan and houses paintings by local artists, amongst which Tasselli from Lugo and Orfeo Orfei from Massalombarda. In 1944 Umberto Folli from Massa Lombarda decorated the vault of the presbytery with a fresco depicting the four evangelists.

Palazzo ComunaleThe town hall lies next to the tower and it's possible that this building was also part of the fortress, as the land registry of Napoleonic times (1800) suggests. This hypothesis would be supported by the presence of scarp walls.

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· SaNT'aGaTa SUL SaNTERNO ·

PALAZZO DEI CONTADINIVia Roma, 12This early 20th century rural house is commonly known as "Cà di cuntaden", which means house of the farmers in the local dialect. It was recently restored and is now a cultural centre.

VILLA PATRONALE (SAN VITALE)Via San Vitale, 53This villa was built at the end of the 19th century, but the original structure is that of a rural 18th century house. Its owner was the famous mathematician Gregorio Ricci Curbastro from Lugo.

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Tourist Information Centre Piazza Garibaldi, 5 - Opening hours: Monday to Friday,08:00 - 13:00; Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, 10:00 - 13:00 Tel. +39 0545 919900; fax +39 0545 45790 e-mail segreteria@comune.santagatasulsanterno.ra.it www.comune.santagatasulsanterno.ra.it www.romagnadeste.it

shoppingSHOPSThe town is quite small and most shops can be found around the central piazza Garibaldi.

main eventsFor information please visit the websitewww.comune.santagatasulsanterno.ra.it

· SaNT'aGaTa SUL SaNTERNO ·

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· SaNT'aGaTa SUL SaNTERNO ·

Romans grew wheat and grapes in this fertile land, but in the early middle ages Bassa

Romagna was covered in woods and marshes; rare documents from the 7th century refer to this land as Magnum Forestum. It took centuries to return these lands to agriculture and they became the most fertile fields of the House of Este and of the Papal States; today, they are still the backbone of the flourishing farming industry of Bassa Romagna. Here the rural culture of bread (or piadina) and wine have evolved over the centuries and have resulted in top quality gastronomy. The area's cuisine keeps tradition alive, but at the same time it is also open to modern trends. Traditional local produce is carefully prepared by artisans who believe in an ancient bond between men and earth; this way of thinking is also observed by farmers who sell directly to consumers. Anyone who visits will enjoy the wonderful local gastronomy in one of the many restaurants, taverns or trattoria in town centres or in the countryside; everywhere they go, they will be delighted by the food as well as by the warm hospitality that characterises this part of Romagna. Throughout the year, several traditional

fairs offer gourmets an ideal opportunity to enjoy the food and wine in the social and cultural context that generated them; on those occasions, town centres become a collective celebration of authentic and genuine produce. It is hard to find a fast-food restaurant here; visitors are much more likely to bump into one of the numerous striped and colourful piadina kiosks dotted around the area.

GOURMET ITINERaRIESfrom good earth to good food

· GOURMET ITINERaRIES ·

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· GOURMET ITINERaRIES ·

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treasures of romagnaon the table Bassa Romagna is a land full of culture, traditions, labour, creativity and warmth. There is a centuries-long tradition of good food and good wine here, and the taste of its delicious produce goes hand in hand with freshness and quality. Visitors always feel like guests of honour when they sit at a table here; expect to be served the best food. The start of the meal will be primi; pasta is often called minestra here. Local pasta is hand-made and prepared with a rolling pin by expert hands. You will be spoiled for choice: cappelletti stuffed with cheese, tagliatelle, tagliolini (a thin type of tagliatelle), strichetti (hand made bow-tie egg pasta), strozzapreti (literally "priest choker", short pasta with an intricate shape best eaten with a rich meat sauce; in Villanova they even make witty "strozzasindaci", "mayor choker"), velvety potato gnocchi, ravioli stuffed with herbs, passatelli with broth (with a delicious smell of parmesan cheese and nutmeg). Local secondi feature a wide variety of excellent meat: pork, beef, barbecued mutton, sausages, ham, salami and coppa (a type of cured meat made with pork and spices). The exquisite beef of the regional breed Razza Romagnola is also excellent if barbecued.

Juicy roasts are more likely to be made with chicken, rabbit or guinea fowl; they will often be served with a side of radicchio e bruciatini, which is a sauté of wild radicchio and pancetta seasoned with balsamic vinegar. Freshly made piadina is the local bread substitute; piadina is a round flatbread made with flour, water, salt and lard and baked on a terracotta pan. This used to be associated with the poor, but today it's highly appreciated for its unique taste. A more calorific speciality bread is pizza fritta, a fried flatbread which is a delicious match for both savoury and sweet flavours, like piadina. The choice of traditional desserts is broad too: zuppa inglese (a sort of trifle), sabadoni (cakes with a chestnut stuffing, dipped into saba, grape must syrup), sugali (cakes made with must) and mistochine (cakes made with chestnut flour). In Bassa Romagna a good meal will always include a good glass of wine, which is called "e' ven" in the local dialect. Nothing can beat a great glass of Bursôn, a full-bodied red wine produced with a local variety of grapes; Bursôn is an excellent match for a naughty snack such as traditional caramelised figs with squaquerone (a soft cheese made from cow's milk), or delicious cured meat made with Mora Romagnola (a local breed of pigs). Let's not forget that in Romagna if you say that you are thirsty, you are most likely to be handed a glass of wine to quench your thirst.

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· traditional recipes ·

traditional recipes

PIaDINa ROMaGNOLaThis is the most famous speciality of Romagna and needs no introduction.Ingredients: 1 kg of flour, 4 g of baking soda, 300 g of lard, salt. Method: mix all the ingredients and add enough water or milk in order to achieve a firm dough. Flatten the dough with a rolling pin until you get a circular shape, make sure it's not too thin; regularly dust the rolling pin and the work surface with flour. Bake the flatbread in the terracotta pan (known as testo) on high heat. Baking takes just a few moments; make sure you prick any bubbles with a fork. SPOIaIn the local dialect, spoia is literally the thin sheet of pasta, ready for creating any pasta shape. Careful use of the rolling pin makes it smooth and elastic. Pasta making is almost one millennium old in Romagna and every year, at the end of August, Massa Lombarda holds a traditional popular feast which celebrates the skill of rolling pasta dough.

· TRaDITIONaL RECIPES ·

Ingredients: (serves 4), 4 eggs, 500 g of flour of the kind '00'. Method: the indispensable tools for making pasta are e' tulìr (the board) and s-ciadùr (the rolling pin). Place the flour on the board, make a well in the centre and crack the eggs into it. Using the tip of your fingers, mix the eggs with the flour, incorporating little at a time; knead the dough together with the alternated pressure of both hands. Make sure you regularly dust the work surface with flour and smooth out any lumps. The dough is ready when tiny bubbles start to appear. Roll out vigorously till you achieve a large and thin sheet of spoia. I CaPL` ETThe spoia can be the starting point for cappelletti, which are traditionally from Romagna. They are characteristically stuffed with parmesan cheese, eggs and nutmeg. They used to be the pasta of choice for the main feasts throughout the year; women used to prepare them once home from the early morning mass, or more rarely the evening before. During difficult financial times, people mixed a small amount of parmesan to some cheaper raviggiolo cheese. Ingredients: for the stuffing, 1 egg, 400 g of parmigiano reggiano, a small amount of nutmeg.Method: cut the pasta into 5x5 cm squares, place a little bit of stuffing in the middle and fold into ring-shaped

dumplings. They are traditionally eaten with capon broth, but they are excellent also with a meat sauce.

PaSSaTELLI IN BRODOThis delicious pasta is a traditional speciality from Romagna. Ingredients: (serves 6), 250 g of bread crumbs, 250 g of grated parmesan, 6 eggs, a small amount of nutmeg, 1.5 litres of meat stock, a pinch of salt.Method: mix the bread crumbs, the grated parmesan, the eggs, the nutmeg and the salt in a bowl. Press the dough through the traditional kitchen utensil specifically used to make passatelli; this is a round metal tool with holes and handles (a sort of large scale grater) which can be purchased in any kitchen utensils shop in Romagna. Passatelli should be cut around 2-3 cm long. Bring the stock to the boil and cook the passatelli; they will be ready when they raise to the surface. Serve with the stock. MISTOCHINEThe recipe of these cakes is very old; they used to be sold by street vendors in winter. They are ideal for dunking in sweet wines such as passito or vin santo. Ingredients: 250 g of chestnut flour, few drops of anise essence, water, a pinch of salt.

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Method: Mix the flour, the anise essence and the salt, add enough water to obtain a firm dough. Knead the dough and roll it out, it should be about 0.5 cm thick. Cut the mistochine in round shapes, with a glass or a biscuit cutter. Leave them to dry. Bake them on a metal tray and turn them until they look dry on both sides. Serve warm. SaBaDONIThese traditional cakes take their name from saba, a grape must syrup.Ingredients: for the stuffing, 1 kg of chestnuts, 300 g of chestnut flour, 250 g of mostarda (sweet fruit pickles), grated zest of one lemon, saba; for the dough, 1 kg of flour, 250 g of sugar, 100 g of butter, baking powder, 4 eggs. Method: boil the chestnuts, blend them in a food processor and mix them with all the rest of the ingredients for the stuffing. Roll out the dough in a thin sheet and cut it into squares. Place a little bit of stuffing in the middle of each square and fold them. Bake the sabadoni in the oven. ZUPPa INGLESEThis home made pudding has been prepared in Romagna since the 19th century. Ingredients: (serves 4), 4 eggs, 4 tablespoons of flour, 4 tablespoons of sugar, 50 g of cocoa powder, 500 ml of milk,

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zest of half a lemon, savoiardi biscuits, liquor alchermes or rosolio.Method: mix egg yolks, sugar, flour, milk and grated lemon zest in a bowl for about ten minutes. Pour the mix in a pan and cook it over a gentle heat. Stir continuously and stop cooking when the custard starts thickening; divide it into two parts and carefully mix one with the cocoa powder. Dip the savoiardi in the liquor and lay them in a bowl; layer custard and savoiardi and make sure you save some chocolate custard for the top layer. Leave the trifle to rest for a little, then place it in the fridge and eat chilled.

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· TRADITIONAL LOCAL PRODUCE ·

traditional local produce

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BEL E COT (OR BEL a COT )Bël e cöt is a type of sausage which looks similar to cotechino.It is made with pork meat and pigskin; it is eaten especially during the celebration of "Festa della Madonna dei Sette Dolori", which takes place in Russi on the third Sunday of September. Bël e cöt is made with various parts of the pig: the jowl, the boned head (without ears) and the skin (30-40%). The pigskin is then chopped and minced; the purpose of pigskin is to bond all the ingredients together, because it produces the so-called inciach ("bonding agent", in dialect). The rest of the meat is chopped roughly and mixed with the pigskin in the mincing machine; seasoning is also added and mixed with the mince. The seasoning is made with: salt, pepper, nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon. Sausages are made with either sheep or beef casing. Bël e cöt is eaten hot, traditionally on a nice slice of unsalted bread and with a glass of young wine canena nova. In Russi people appreciate the opinion of a local citizen, called Giuseppe Buscaioli, who used to recommend: "Quând che e' salâm l'è cöt l'à da èsar dur, quând ch'l'è cöt e' cudghen l'à da èsar murbi" (when salame is cooked, it's hard, but when bël e cöt is ready, it has to be tender).

vinegar, distillates, saba, honey, meat, traditional cakes, preserves and flowers. For information about where to buy: tel. +39 0545 280898; e-mail -turismo@comune.bagnacavallo.ra.it La CaNÉ ENa NOVaSome consider this young wine almost like a sort of must. Canena is produced with a variety of grapes: canena dal raspo rosso, barzemino, ciliegiolo, ancellotta, but also, if possible, negretto and curnacia, which make the wine more transparent. This wine is the perfect match for bël e cöt, but it can also be enjoyed with traditional cakes and biscuits, such as ciambella, zuccherini, sabadoni, sweet tagliatelle, migliaccio, pasta margherita and tarts, as well as with trifle-style puddings such as zuppa inglese. Every year, Canena has dedicated celebrations in Russi, Cotignola and Alfonsine. DOLCE DI SaN MICHELEThis cake can only be bought during the homonymous patron saint celebration which happens every year during the last week of September. It's made with custard, eggs, sugar, walnuts, almonds and pine nuts. It's served chilled and it's great with a good glass of sweet wine like passito. The detailed recipe is kept secret by the bakers of Bagnacavallo.

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· TRaDITIONaL LOCaL PRODUCE ·

IL BIaNCO DI SaN MICHELEThis wine is the result of a mix of Chardonnay and other grapes with similar characteristic; Bianco di San Michele is made with cool fermentation and with carefully selected yeast. If the harvest has happened in August, this young wine can be consumed at the end of September, when Bagnacavallo celebrates its patron saint, Saint Michael (September 29).It's best served chilled, because low temperature will gently enhance the fresh flavours of fruit, which are the result of great quality grapes. Great with starters and with seafood. BURS ONThis ancient wine is unique because it's produced with a kind of grape that is specifically from Bassa Romagna. Bursôn is the nickname of the Longanesi, a local family that in the 1950s saved this grape from extinction. Today the wine is still produced according to the tradition and it's aged in oak barrels. This full-bodied and dry wine is ruby red in colour and has an intense bouquet of berries. Its unmistakable flavour makes it a great match for game, red meat, roast, truffles and strong cheese. Bursôn has received several awards and is produced by the wine makers of the consortium of producers Il Bagnacavallo, which was born to safeguard and advocate local produce, such as: wine,

LUIGINO, PRUGNOLINO, NOCINO aND FEUILLES DE CERISESThese are local spirits that were rediscovered by Angelo Babini, a member of the national association of sommelier who has recently died. They are all part of the rural tradition.Luigino is made with lemon verbena. Prugnolino is produced with fruits of blackthorn that have been specifically picked from salt evaporation ponds in Cervia. Nocino is a walnut liquor originally from Modena, but here it's produced with a local recipe. Feuilles de Cerises is a liquor flavoured with cherry and sour cherry leaves; it's a French recipe which arrived here with Napoleon's army. PGI PEaCHES aND NECTaRINES FROM ROMaGNa Peaches and nectarines of Romagna are registered as Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) under EC regulation 2081/92; this safeguards the uniqueness of the local peaches and nectarines. Romagna produces 60% of all nectarines in Italy and 30% of all peaches; their home is Massa Lombarda, which also has the museum of fruit farming (Museo Bonvicini). Here peaches and nectarines are produced with the higher standards, so they taste great and are healthy; they contain vitamin C, beta-carotene and potassium. They ripen from June to September.

FROGSFrogs are one of the delicacies of the gastronomy typical of wetlands; they are excellent fried and are great ingredients for stews and risottos. Conselice is the place where you should eat frogs; the town has a dedicated traditional feast which celebrates frogs in the second half of September. ZUZIZINaZuzizina is a sausage made with the fresh meat of a young pig; it is seasoned with salt and pepper. Sausages are made with sheep casing, which is called rudlé in the local dialect, and they come in sets of three. Zuzizina can be barbecued or fried; the cooking time is quite short. {149}

TALENT OF HANDS In Bassa Romagna men and women keep alive the tradition and skills of ancient craft techniques; in their workshops they skilfully create beautiful artefacts that bring together craft and art.

MARSH PLANTS HANDICRAFTLargo Tre Giunchi, 1 - Villanova di BagnacavalloTel. +39 0545 47122; e-mail barangani@racine.ra.itwww.erbepalustri.it The Ecomuseo della Civiltà Palustre safeguards the heritage and the skills related to the craftsmanship of objects created with marsh plants and local wood; some of these artefacts can be purchased at the museum. The museum's educational department has a busy programme of workshops and courses for groups and schools. Visitors can see experienced craftspeople create objects (such as bags, flasks, brooms, baskets, duck decoys and chairs) during the street market "La Soffitta in Piazza" (first Sunday of March, April and May) and during the village feast "Sagra della Civiltà delle Erbe Palustri" ( 2nd of September).

The

arts and craft itineraries

· arTs and crafT iTineraries ·

{150} with marsh plants and local wood; some of these artefacts can be purchased at the museum. The museum's educational department has a busy programme of workshops and courses for groups and schools. Visitors can see experienced craftspeople create objects (such as bags, flasks, brooms, baskets, duck decoys and chairs) during the street market "La Soffitta in Piazza" (first Sunday of March, April and May) and during the village feast "Sagra della Civiltà delle Erbe

MARSH PLANTS HANDICRAFTLargo Tre Giunchi, 1 - Villanova di BagnacavalloTel. +39 0545 47122; e-mail barangani@racine.ra.it

MARSH PLANTS HANDICRAFTLargo Tre Giunchi, 1 - Villanova di BagnacavalloTel. +39 0545 47122; e-mail barangani@racine.ra.it

ARTISTIC CERAMICS BY ANNA TAZZARIVia Baccano Inferiore, 5 - Abbadesse di BagnacavalloTel. +39 0545 52870

Anna Tazzari started a ceramic workshop in her house in 2002. She uses different types of clay and creates sculptures, decorative panels, plates and vases. She is skilled in a variety of techniques, amongst which Raku ceramic; Anna has exhibited her work extensively in solo and group shows and has gained awards. She created sculptures in collaboration with Tonino Guerra and worked with Gianfranco Budini on a project related to "whistling" ceramics.

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· arts and craft itineraries ·

{151}Anna Tazzari started a ceramic workshop in her house in 2002. She uses different types of clay and creates sculptures, decorative panels, plates and vases. She is skilled in a variety of techniques, amongst which Raku ceramic; Anna has exhibited her work extensively in solo and group shows and has gained awards. She created sculptures in collaboration with Tonino Guerra and worked with Gianfranco Budini on a project related to "whistling" ceramics.

ARTISTIC CERAMICS ARTISTIC CERAMICS ARTISTIC CERAMICS ARTISTIC CERAMICS ARTISTIC CERAMICS

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MACRAMÉ LACEBY EDERA TIMONCINIVia Maiano, 60 - Maiano Monti, FusignanoTel. +39 0545 52378

Edera Timoncini, generally known as "nonna bisa", is an expert macramé lacemaker; this technique has Arab origins and came to Italy through sailors whose ships docked in Genoa. Together with her daughter Giuseppina Margotti, Edera organises very popular courses that take place on Tuesday; Tina Bedeschi was one of her students and now has her own workshop in Lugo, in via d'Azeglio 20 (tel. +39 0545 25635).

MOSAICS BY ANDREA AND MAURO HAFSIVia Piantavecchia, 31 - Voltana di LugoTel. +39 339 1850476 / +39 333 7956707

Andrea and Mauro Hafsi are brothers and they've been working with mosaic since the nineties. With this wonderful technique they create sculptures and design pieces such as lamps.

came to Italy through sailors whose ships docked in Genoa. Together with her daughter Giuseppina Margotti, Edera organises very popular courses that take place on Tuesday; Tina Bedeschi was one of her students and now has her own workshop in Lugo, in via d'Azeglio 20 (tel. +39 0545 25635).

BYZANTINE EMBROIDERYBY IRMA SCUDELLARIVia Carducci, 11 - LugoTel. +39 0544 580869

Irma Scudellari Melandri safeguards and cultivates the art of Byzantine embroidery; she had organised several exhibitions in Italy and abroad, in order to raise awareness about this embroidery technique which reproduces the decorations of Byzantine mosaics, artworks and architecture. Irma is also the author of a book about Byzantine embroidery which is titled "Bello come un sogno d'Oriente" (Casanova Editore, Faenza, 2006).

IRON SCULPTURES BY GIOVANNI MARTINIVia Molino, 33 - FusignanoTel. +39 0545 52606

Giovanni Martini has been a blacksmith for a long time, but he's also gained the attention of art critics and art lovers for his original sculptures, which are created with very interesting techniques. The way he works with iron results into lightweight shapes and surfaces that are similar to ceramic. His fascinating workshop is located inside a 16th century mill.

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Irma Scudellari Melandri safeguards and cultivates the art of

BYZANTINE EMBROIDERY

Irma Scudellari Melandri safeguards and cultivates the art of Byzantine embroidery; she had organised several exhibitions

BYZANTINE EMBROIDERY

Irma Scudellari Melandri safeguards and cultivates the art of

· arts and craft itineraries ·

Bassa Romagna the change of season is a spectacular event: in spring, trees and plants are lavishly

blossoming and birds return from migration, summer is characterised by warm shades, autumn has the flavour of grape harvest, while winter's atmosphere, with fog and frost, is dreamy. Visitors will enjoy exploring nature on their bicycles in the countryside; they will discover wetlands and the traces left by time and by human beings. Here there are traces from various historical periods, including old rural houses and medieval buildings, as well as evidence of ancient times, such as the Roman road structure ("centuriazione") which is going to become "Paesaggio Protetto" (safeguarded landscape) soon.

alfonsineRISERVA NATURALE DI ALFONSINEVia Passetto, 3 - Opening hours: Monday to Friday, from September to November and from March to May, 09:00 - 13:00,

in

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Tuesday and Thursday also 14:00 - 17:30, Wednesday also 14:00 - 17:00; Monday to Friday, from December to February and from June to August, 09:00 - 13:00; closed: Saturday, Sunday and from 22/12 to 06/01 and from 09 to 24/08 - Free admission Tel. +39 0544 869808; e-mail turismoalfonsine@provincia.ra.itWhen the weather is good the landscape of this 12-hectare regional conservation area is extraordinarily intense. This is what remains of the wetlands; it is the refuge for the flora and fauna of the Regional Park of Po Delta ("Parco Regionale del Delta del Po"). It features three areas: the pond of the former pit "Fornace Violani" (a deep pond inhabited by the great crested grebe and by the European pond turtle), the wood of the three canals (a flooded wood with white poplar, white willow and field elm) and the ending part of "Canale dei Molini" (a canal with dense vegetation, including common dogwood, elderberry, common hawthorn and gorgeous wild orchids). Each area has paths for walks and visitors will certainly enjoy the diversity of the environment; there are also bird watching facilities.

Tuesday and Thursday also 14:00 - 17:30, Wednesday also 14:00 Tuesday and Thursday also 14:00 - 17:30, Wednesday also 14:00 - 17:00; Monday to Friday, from December to February and - 17:00; Monday to Friday, from December to February and from June to August, 09:00 - 13:00; closed: Saturday, Sunday

which is going to become "Paesaggio Protetto" (safeguarded landscape) soon.

aRISERVA NATURALE DI ALFONSINEVia Passetto, 3 - Opening hours: Monday to Friday, from September to November and from March to May, 09:00 - 13:00,

natural environment itinerariesgifts of nature

· NATURAL ENVIRONMENT ITINERARIES ·

and traditions, environment and the territory, scientific and creative workshops. Itineraries feature a wide variety of natural environments: woods, pond, herbs garden, fruit orchard, indoor rural spaces such as the kitchen or the barn. The farm has animals (hens, ducks, goats, geese, sheep, Guinea pigs, pheasants, doves, pigs and rabbits).

BagnacavalloPISTA CICLABILEThis quiet cycle path is a favourite of the locals, who also use it for walks and for jogging. It starts in Largo De Gasperi and runs along the old canal Naviglio Zanelli. The path is fascinating in every season and quite romantic at night in summer; it's also the ideal journey for those visiting the villages of Villa Prati, Rossetta or Villanova.

PODERE PANTALEONEVicolo Pantaleone - Opening hours: from 05/04 to 03/10 Sunday and public holidays, April, May, September, October, 14:30 - 18:30; June and July, 15:30 - 19:30; closed: from 15/07 to 31/08. Visits by appointment or during eventsTel. +39 347 4585280I / +39 0545 280898;e-mail turismo@comune.bagnacavallo.ra.it

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FIUME RENO E FOCE DEL TORRENTE SENIOOpen every day from dawn to dusk - Tel. +39 0544 869808www.parcodeltapo.itThe river Reno can be found along via Raspona; it is safeguarded as "Zona di Protezione Speciale/Sito di Importanza Comunitaria". The small river Senio flows into Reno and that stretch is part of the conservation area "Stazione Valli di Comacchio" of "Parco del Delta del Po".

EDUCATIONAL FARMS

CASA DEL DIAVOLOVia Destra Senio, 88 - Tel. +39 0544 81208 / +39 338 8002962;e-mail casadeldiavolo@libero.it - www.lacasadeldiavolo.itOpen by appointmentFrom Alfonsine, drive along via Bruno and along the river in Via Destra Senio; the farm is about 1 km after the canal Destra Reno. This farm is located nearby the conservation area "Parco del Delta del Po", where the river Senio flows into Reno. The farm includes two valuable rural houses: Casa del Diavolo and Casa dell'Agnese, where the film L'Agnese va a morire was shot. The education programme is wide and includes visits and lessons, featuring topics such as: the preparation and baking of bread in wood fired oven, history

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This 6-hectare conservation area is just outside the town centre and is an example of how the local countryside was in the past. The area hasn't been farmed for decades, so the local flora and fauna have proliferated, creating a very interesting natural environment.

ETNOPARCO VILLANOVA DELLE CAPANNEVia Ungaretti, 1 (Villanova di Bagnacavallo) Tel. +39 0545 47122 / 47777;e-mail barangani@racine.ra.it - www.erbepalustri.itThe Ecomuseo della Civiltà Palustre has created an open air museum display in the garden of the former village school; the display is an historical reconstruction of ancient rural huts, which were very popular in the past in the countryside of Bassa Romagna. The huts have been faithfully recreated with original construction techniques; they come in various shapes depending on their function: cellar-hut, classic hut, "cavâna" (boats' shelter) and others. The huts are made with local materials.

educational farmsROSE E FIORIVia Boncellino, 117 (Boncellino di Bagnacavallo)

Tel. +39 0545 62209 / +39 349 3006430; fax +39 0545 64030;e-mail rosefiori@rosefiori.it - www.rosefiori.itOpening hours: by appointment Monday to Friday.Closed: Thursday, Saturday and Sunday. This cooperative is just outside the town centre; from the provincial road San Vitale turn at the traffic light (for Boncellino) and follow the road signs. "Rose e Fiori" is specialised in floriculture and can offer a tour of the greenhouses where the flowers are grown, but also visits to other kinds of fields and local natural environment. Visitors will also be able to see the entire process of preparation of flowers before they become ready for the market.

LA RONDINEVia Boncellino, 178 (Boncellino di Bagnacavallo) Tel. +39 0545 69262 / +39 347 4230464; fax +39 0545 69262; e-mail sauro.rossini@libero.it - Open: Monday to Saturday 08:30 - 18:30, preferably by appointmentThis farm is about 5 km from the town centre; from the provincial road San Vitale turn at the traffic light for Boncellino. This family-run farm is partially organic and includes fields of wheat, barley, soy, beans, broad beans, alfalfa, vegetables, as well as fruit trees and vine yards. "La Rodine" also has a variety of farm animals, including cows of the

· NATURAL ENVIRONMENT ITINERARIES ·

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monumental treesAcer campestre - Strada Bagnoli Inferiore, 1 - H 14 mt / D 75 cm

Fraxinus excelsior - Via S. Gervasio, 13 (Boncellino) H 21 mt / D 83 cm

Morus sp - Via Sottofiume, 52 (Boncellino) - H 15 mt / D 40 cm

ConseliceBOSCHETTO DI VIA GABRIELLA DALLE VACCHEVia G. Dalle Vacche (San Patrizio)Free admission - Tel. -39 0545 986956This wood is a conservation area which includes wetlands and an area for educational observations. It is located along the cycle path which connects the village of San Patrizio with the marshes of "Parco del Delta del Po". Here various species of birds and bats are safeguarded; the conservation area is also a flooding area, protecting the village from floods with its three ponds. The educational itineraries will help visitors discover the original wetland landscape of this area, which have been modified by people over the centuries.

local breed "Razza Romagnola". The education programme features the following topics: grape harvest and wine making, wheat production and bread making, sheep shearing, milking and cheese making, cows and their meat, the importance of compost and soil fertility, organic cereal and legume farming, pigs and sausage making, planting organic vegetables, farming utensils of the past and of the present, fruit and herbs harvesting, the wonderful world of insects.

LARA TESTAVia Sinistra Canale Inferiore, 171 (Villa Prati di Bagnacavallo) Tel. +39 0545 58076 / +39 347 2768118 / +39 347 1038344;fax +39 0545 58076; e-mail picciouno@tiscalinet.itVisits by appointment Monday to SaturdayThe farm is about 3 km from Bagnacavallo; it is located along the canal. Here pigs are being raised with the standards required to become prestigious Parma and San Daniele ham, with the denomination PDO (Protected Designation of Origin). There are also other farm animals and horses. The education programme is articulated through lessons, discussions and hands-on activities; it includes the following topics: the history of pig farming, the production of pigs' meat delicacies. There are also practical workshops about sausage making and a quiz about renewable energy sources.

· NATURAL ENVIRONMENT ITINERARIES ·

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PERCORSO VERSO IL PARCO DEL DELTA DEL POFrom via Selice, 2 (San Patrizio)This cycle path, which is also ideal for walks, starts from the 16th century mill of San Patrizio and goes through the centre of San Patrizio and Conselice, as well as through the wood of Via Gabriella Dalle Vacche; its north-eastern part reaches the ancient part of the river Po di Primaro. On the stream Sillaro, there are two paths: the first leads to Valle Santa and the conservation area of Campotto, the latter follows the river Reno and leads to the wetlands in Comacchio. This is a great itinerary to observe the original landscape of the past as well as the human intervention created with reclamation works. The path includes two areas with reconstructions of ancient rural huts and educational panels with information about local social history.

educational farmsC.A.B. MASSARIVia Coronella, 110 (Chiesanuova di Conselice)Tel. +39 0545 980035; e-mail agriturismomassari@virgilio.it www.agriturismomassari.it

Visits by appointment on Wednesday and Thursday morningThis is a farmers' cooperative with a long history; it can be found just few km off the provincial road SP Selice, at the traffic light of Conselice just follow the sign for the village of Chiesanuova. Here all produce is farmed with eco-compatible techniques. The farm's building is typical of large collective organisations and features warehouses, workshops, a large barnyard, the houses of the farmers and a large cattle shed with three hundred cows that produce high quality milk. The education programme includes the following topics: discovering the farm's animals, milk and cheese making, fruit and preserves making, wheat and bread making, old farming utensils and tractors, the history of local labourers, bringing back bushes, ponds and local trees to safeguard the natural environment.

monumental treesPopulus alba - Via Selice (Ponte Rosso) - H 20 mt / D 100 cm

Populus alba - Via Selice, 288 - H 20 mt / D 110 cm

Fraxinus excelsior - SS 16 (Lavezzola ) - H 20 mt / D 86 cm

· NATURAL ENVIRONMENT ITINERARIES ·

Tel. +39 0456 620009 / +39 338 2744751; fax +39 0546 623499; e-mail gbulzacca@libero.it - Visits by appointment This farm can be reached from the provincial road (Naviglio) which links Bagnacavallo with Faenza; at the roundabout in Granarolo Faentino take the road for San Severo (via Pontevalle) and drive for another 2 km. The farm produces fruit, grapes and cereals and has its own wine cellar. There are also cows of the local breed "Razza Romagnola", sheep of the breed "Razza Biellese" and several other farm animals. The education programme includes the following topics: wine making and wine tasting techniques, wheat and bread, the making of bread and "piadina", fruit farming, the natural environment of the local river, farm's animals and amateur breeding techniques, the cow breed "Razza Romagnola", how to breed cows, the Roman tradition of sheep.

monumental treesPopulus alba - Via Canale, 6 - H 25 mt / D 144 cmQuercus robur - Via Caraffa, 6Populus alba - Via Gaggio, 46 - H 30 mt / D 112 cmPopulus alba - Via Molinello, 9 - H 20 mt / D 80 cmPopulus alba - Via San Severo, 34 - H 20 mt / D 100 cm

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CotignolaVIA CANALE Tel. +39 0545 908871This countryside secondary road is part of a conservation area; in particular, the segment included between via Cenacchio and via Ponte Pietra is located along the canal Bertini, where the old mill of Cotignola used to be, and offers a great panorama of natural beauty.

PARCO SANDRO PERTINIVia Ponte Pietra - Tel. +39 0545 908871This 14-hectare conservation area is off Via Madonna di Genova (toward Lugo). It includes facilities for visitors, a pond and a fully safeguarded area for ecological rebalancing; this features typical local flora and fauna, which includes birds and fish. The park has a fishing pond, several sport facilities and a small zoo with the traditional animals that can be found in local farms.

educational farmsBULZACCAVia Maremme, 17 (San Severo di Cotignola)

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Populus alba - Via Barbiana, 10 (San Severo)H 18 mt / D 150 cmQuercus robur - Via Montesa, 1 (San Severo)

FusignanoBOSCO DI FUSIGNANOVia Romagna - Tel. +39 0545 955653This wood is located west of Fusignano; it's the result of a reforestation project aiming to recreate a portion of the ancient woods of oak and hornbeam that used to be here in the past. A similar wood existed in Fusignano in the park of the villa of the Calcagnini family; sadly this was destroyed during World War II. This wood is a conservation area and will soon be part of the itinerary of "Canale dei Molini", which goes beyond Lugo and includes the former pit "Gattelli" and "Parco del Loto".

educational farmsMAURO CORTESIVia Maiano, 72 - Tel. +39 320 6747147;e-mail mauroeanna@tele2.it - Opening hours: 08:30 - 12:30,

by appointment. Closed on Sunday This farm has been organic since 1985 and it mainly grows fruit. The farm is surrounded by a beautiful hedge with various plants; there are also a small wood and a pond with ducks. Other animals include hens, guinea-fowls, peacocks, turkeys, sheep and a donkey. The education programme includes the following topics: bread and wine making, organic farming, animal breeding, beekeeping.

monumental treesPopulus alba - Via Fiume Di Sotto - H 27 m / D 130 cm

LugoPARCO DEL LOTOVia Brignani, 9/1 and Via Foro Boario, 42/3 - Opening hours: from 01/05 to 14/09, 09:00 - 21:00; from 15 to 30/09, 09:00 - 19:00; October, November and December, 09:00 - 17:00; Sundays and public holidays: from 01/05 to 14/09, 09:00 - 21:00; from 15 to 30/09, 09:00 - 19:00; October, November and December, 09:00 - 17:00; from 31/12 play area only (entrance in Via Brignani), 09:00 - 17:00 - Tel. +39 0545 38444 / 38559; e-mail urp@comune.lugo.ra.it

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CANALE DEI MOLINIThis canal is located in the municipalities of Castel Bolognese, Lugo and Fusignano; it is the natural link between two large parks with quite different characteristics: "Parco della Vena del Gesso Romagnola" (in the hills) and "Parco del Delta del Po" (in the lowlands and wetlands). The area around this canal is being turned into a conservation area that will safeguard the landscape of the Roman road structure ("centuriazione"), which has been preserved quite well in the countryside of Lugo. This canal is also particularly suitable for cycling itineraries and for walks; once the conservation project is completed it will include "Parco del Loto", the former pit "Gattelli", the wood in Fusignano and Alfonsine's conservation area. The cycle path between Fusignano's wood and "Parco del Loto" is already in use.

educational farmsEMILIO DONATIVia Lunga Inferiore, 27 (San Lorenzo di Lugo)Tel. +39 0545 70441 / +39 338 3253214;e-mail aziendadonati@interfree.itOpening hours: 08:30 - 18:30, by appointment.Closed on week-endsThis farm is outside Lugo; take via Fiumazzo and turn right

This relaxing green area is just outside the town centre; it measures 77,252 square metres and features a large pond with water lilies (from which the area takes its name) and vistors' facilities. The fauna includes a wide variety of local birds, such as goldfinch and nightingale, and some birds typical of wetlands, such as coot and heron. The cycle path along "Canale dei Molini" is a great itinerary through a wide variety of natural landscapes featuring interesting buildings such as mills. PARCO DEL NEOLITICO (EX CAVA GATTELLI)Largo B. Bagolini (off Via Quarantola) Tel. +39 0545 38444 / 38559These former clay pits are located north-east of the town centre. During the eighties and the nineties a Neolithic village was unearthed here; some remains of the site are still at the bottom of the lake, so this 19-hectare conservation area has also archaeological importance. The 4-hectare lake was created with the emersion of groundwater. The area is part of the conservation area of Lugo's "Canale dei Molini" and will soon be equipped with educational displays about the local history and archaeology, in order to make it more accessible to visitors.

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after the village of Ascensione. The farm features a traditional rural house that has been inhabited by the same family for 250 years; this place is popularly known as "the animals' farm" because of its owners' passion for animals, which include rabbits, game and cows of the local breed "Razza Romagnola". The education programme includes the following topics: farm animals' breeding techniques, knowing game's species, how to rescue wild animals experiencing difficulties.

monumental treesPopulus alba - Via S. Andrea, 40 - H 30 mt / D 80 cmTilia tomentosa - Via Fiumazzo, 384 (Belricetto)Platanus sp - Via Fiumazzo, 403 (Belricetto) - H 32 mt / D 134 cmQuercus robur - Via Fiumazzo, 437 (Belricetto) - H 20 mt / D 115 cmPopulus nigra - Villa San Martino Ronchetto - H 20 mt / D 103 cmQuercus robur - Villa San Martino Ronchetto - H 20 mt / D 80 cmPopulus alba - Via Rio Fantino, 7 (Villa S. Martino) - H 28 mt / D 150 cm

Massa LombardaCAMMINATA DEI SETTE PONTIFrom Via Dini e Salvalai 34/F - Tel. +39 0545 985890This walk starts from Parco Piave, near the bowls area (in via Dini e Salvalai 34/F). A small wooden bridge connects the park with the west bank of the canal of the mills and the walk is about 2 km long; visitors will cross seven bridges (from which the itinerary's name) and arrive in the spot where two canals meet. Then the walk continues in the countryside south of Massa Lombarda, among fruit trees and rural houses.

monumental treesQuercus robur - Via Damano, 2 - H 18 mt / D 76 cmQuercus robur - Via Damano, 7Populus nigra - Via Del Signore, 16 - H 27 mt / D 166 cmMorus alba - Via Del Signore, 22 - H 15 mt / D 125 cmPopulus alba - Via Del Signore, 24 - H 32 mt / D 170 cmPopulus alba - Via Merlo, 19 - H 25 mt / D 110 cmMorus nigra - Via Selice Vecchia - H 11 mt / D 156 cmUlmus minor - Viale Ravenna, 4 - H 16 mt / D 80 cm

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between earth and water is a 35 km journey from Russi to the Adriatic Sea; it's ideal on foot or with the bicycle.

educational farmsARTEMISIAVia Traversa, 16 (Godo di Russi) - Tel. +39 0544 418003 / +39 335 5622415; fax +39 0544 418439;e-mail info@artemisiabio.it www.artemisiabio.itVisits by appointment This farm is off the provincial road SP San Vitale, near the village of Godo. It features a very pleasant old rural house with farm animals; the farm produces local traditional delicacies and organic produce. The education programme includes the following topics: the ancient use of ash, organic farming, weather forecasting, farm animals breeding and cooking lessons.

monumental treesQuercus robur - Via Farini, 24 (San Pancrazio) - H 18 mt / D 106 cm

Tilia tomentosa - Via Libertà, 1 (San Pancrazio)

RussiOASI ECOLOGICA DELLA VILLA ROMANAVia Fiumazzo - Free admission - Tel. +39 0544 587660This conservation area is about 2 km north of the town centre and surrounds the homonymous archaeological site. It has been created on a former clay pit ("Fornace Gattelli") and includes other fields around it, although most of the 13-hectares are the site of the former pit, which is about 10 mt deep. This conservation area is part of a regional project and includes a variety of habitats that aim to safeguard biodiversity: ponds, areas that are periodically flooded, wetland vegetation, woods. In each of these habitats the appropriate vegetation has been planted, in order to facilitate the proliferation of the local fauna.

VIE D'ACQUA - SULL'ARGINE DEL LAMONE Tel. +39 0545 280898This itinerary runs along the river Lamone, the ancient "Anemo", which originates in Casaglia, in the Apennines between Tuscany and Emilia. The river runs through various towns (Marradi, Brisighella, Faenza, Russi and Bagnacavallo) and flows into the sea in the area between Casalborsetti and Marina Romea. This itinerary

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Produced by: Servizio di Promozione Turistica dell'Unione dei Comuni della Bassa Romagna

Editing and coordination: Elisabetta Antognoni, Mariangela Baroni, Raffaella Costa

Thanks to everyone that contributed to the creation of this guide

A special thanks to:Gianni BartolottiMassimo BerdondiniJohn De LeoItalo GrazianiStefano Ricci

Images copyright:Archivio storico delle edizioni musicali Casadei Sonora (in "La tradizione del Liscio") Arturo Colamussi (for the aerial images of the Roman road structure) Giovanni Dall'Orto (for the image of Borso d'Este) Claudio Nostri (for the image of Eraldo Baldini) Paolo Ruffini (in "Paesaggi di cinema")

Part of the photographs are by Andrea Canducci

Created by Cambiamenti.netProject leader: Carlo ZauliGraphic design: Laura ZavalloniTexts: Alessandro AntonelliEnglish translation: Giulia Ricci

Printed by: Grafiche Morandi