In A WORLD of BAROQUE

The 17th Century

Table of ContentsSnapshot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Map of the 17th Century . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Timeline/Major Powers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-4 France in the 17th Century . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-8England in the 17th Century . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Spain in the 17th Century . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Social Influences/2 Major Artists . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Sources of Evidence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12-13Influences on Clothing part 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Introduction of Baroque . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Influences on Clothing part 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Baroque Influences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Fabrics of the 17th Century . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Women Costume . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19-26Men Costume/Beauty Patches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27-29Costume for Children . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30-31 Accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32-33Parallels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Bibliography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

The Seventeenth Century 1600 - 1700

The 17th Century was a period of change. With the downfall of

Renaissance & Mannerists art came the introduction of the Baroque style

originally by the Italians gave a new trend for art, literature, music and

clothing. The baroque period had spread furiously around the world. Major powers

during the 17th century were England led by King Charles I who was later

beheaded, Spain, and France led by King Louis XIV who dominated during his

reign with his creation of the Palace of Versailles. Religious differences and the

difficulty of taxation resulted in the Puritan move to Holland and also the Civil war in 1642. Trade and the social

life of the French and English courts had an huge impact the clothing of the 17th

century.

TIMELINE1606– Birth of Rembrandt1607 – First permanent English settlement in New World established at Jamestown, in Virginia1610 – Louis XII becomes king of France1616 – Death of Shakespeare 1619 – First African slaves brought to America1625 – Charles I becomes king of England1642 – Civil war begins in England 1643 – Louis XIV becomes king of France1649 – Charles I of England Beheaded. The Commonwealth Proclaimed.1660 – Charles II, son of Charles I becomes king1666 – Charles II introduces the Vest1669 – Death of Rembrandt 1682 – French court moves to the Palace at Versailles1685 – James II rules England1689 – William of Orange and Mary. Daughter of James II rules England1699 – Disintegration of Ottoman Empire

Major Powers of the 17th Century

France England Spain

F R A N C E

Louis XIV was king Louis dominates the Baroque periodConstructed The Palace of Versailles (the glory & the majesty) During Louis XIV reign, France was more powerful than ever Making 80% tax revenue

Louis XIV

The Palace of Versailles

E N G L A N D

Elizabeth I dies 1533 - 1603 James I is crowned king Puritans (Pilgrims) began to grow Puritans fled to Holland due to James I Religious Policies Puritans sailed on Mayflower to the New World Civil War (1642) Charles I beheaded The republic, The Commonwealth was proclaimed

S P A I N

Philip III was king12 Years Truce between Spain and the Dutch Explosion of the MoriscosPhilip IV became kingSpanish power declined Battle of Villaviciosa Charles II became king

Social InfluencesThe General Crisis

TRADE PRACTICES

RELIGION ECONOMY TECHNOLOGY

Imported Fibers

Church of England

Taxation Draw Loom

Fabrics Roman Catholic

Monarchies rebelled

Garments Tax farmers were paying themselves

Sources of EvidencePainted Portraits

Drawings

Garments Writings

Furniture Art

Carlo Dolci, Salome with the Head of St. John

the Baptist (detail)1665-70

Gabriel Metsu. Detail from Portrait of a Lady, 1667.

2 Major Artist of the 17th

Century

Influences on ClothingPart 1

Italians led the transition from Mannerism style to the Baroque style.

The Baroque PeriodA period based on the

baroque style of European music, architecture, and art of the 17th Century.

Influences on Clothing

The Baroque style served as a major influence on clothing in the 17th century. The Style focused on drama, exuberance, and tension The Style began in Rome, Italy Encouraged by the Catholic Church by Council of Trent The style expressed Control, Power, & Triumph

Part 2

Baroque Influences Clothing

Music Dance Literature

Theatre

Sculpture & Paintings

Fabrics of the 17th Century

Linen WoolSilk Cheap Cotton (wrapped in linen for sale at a lower price)

Costume For Women 17th

Century

Women Costume Linen Chemise – the undermost

garmentGown – made with bodices and skirts1. Opened at center front2. Gowns often had many layers3. Outer layer of gowns were under a bodice Bodice – a stiffened garment similar to the corsetStomacher – a U shaped garment piece that filled in the upper part of the gown

Bodice Corset

Stomacher

Skirts - separate garments worn under gownsJackets – worn in combination with skirts more than gownsVirago Sleeves – paned and stylishly puffed sleevesNecklines – V-shaped, Square shaped, or Horizontal in shapeFalling Ruffs – gathered collars or wide collars tied under the chin or sloped from neck to shoulderCapes – cut flat with flat turned- down collars & were worn outside.

Women Costume

Jacket

CapeRuff

Skirt

Hair & HeaddressWomen's hood

Cavalier style women's hat

Shoes

Costume For Men

17th Century

Falling band – a flat collar added to a shirt that replaced the ruffSleeve cuffs & Collars – made mainly of laceDoublet – padded jacket worn over the shirt and laced(tied) to breechesBreeches – began at the waist, cut more closely and tapered to the knee. Edges decorated with lace or ribbons. Capes & Cloaks – had wide collars & was worn outdoors Cassocks – men coats with wide sleeves that ended at thigh high or below

Falling bandDoublet

Breeches

Head & Headdress

Men wore hair long and curlyBeards were trimmed to a pointMustaches were large & curly Love Lock – a lock of hair grown longer than the restMen wore large-brimmed hats that had full feather plumes

Beauty Patches

Men and Women both wore beauty patches to cover blemishes from

Syphilis, Smallpox, & other diseases.

Costume For Children 17th Century

Infants were swaddled fro the first 2 or 3 monthsNappies – American diapers – linen cloth made n checker pattern Christening robes – worn through the babies first year during the occasion of christening. Carrying frocks – for infants Going frocks – for children old enough to walk Pinafore – aprons that replaced bibsPudding – used to protect the toddlers headCoral teething rings – warded off evil

Children Costume

Accessories

Gloves were worn by bothHandkerchiefs & purses were carried by both Fans for women Muffs made of velvet, silk, fur, or satin Face mask worn by women for face protection during bad weatherAprons worn by women when doing household tasks Men wore pendants, chains, lockets, rings & earrings

Accessories for Men & Women

Parallels

Bibliography

Tortora, P. G., & Eubank, K. (1989). A survey of historic costume (5th ed.). New York: Fairchild Publications. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baroque https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_General_Crisis Albee, Sarah, and Tim Gunn. Why'd They Wear That?: Fashion as the Mirror of History. Washington, D.C.: National Geographic, 2015. Print.