Hybrid Racing 8th Gen CAI Install Guide
-
Upload
hybrid-racing -
Category
Documents
-
view
40.129 -
download
1
description
Transcript of Hybrid Racing 8th Gen CAI Install Guide
1
Install Guide for 8th Generation Honda Civic Cold Air Intake
Features:
Full Silicone Construction
Most powerful 8th Gen intake on the market
Built In Air Bypass helps to avoid hydrolocking
Includes velocity stack
Includes battery relocation kit
Available couplers for large and small throttle bodies
Requires tuning software like FlashPro
Recommend Tools:
Metric Socket and Wrench set
Socket extensions
Large flat head screwdriver
#2 Phillips head screwdriver
Pliers
Drain pan for coolant
5mm allen wrench
This product may not be legal for highway use. Hybrid Racing is not responsible for any direct or indirect, actual or incidental expense attributed to the use of any performance parts sold by Hybrid Racing LLC. Purchasers
agree to all of the terms of this agreement upon the purchase of parts.
Important!! Installation should be performed by a trained technician or experienced installer. If you see terminology in this install guide that you are
not familiar with, please contact the vendor you purchased the intake from for assistance. Please read the whole guide before attempting installation.
Package Contents:
(1) Steel Battery Tray
(1) Silicone Inlet Tube (3.5” ID)
(1) Silicone Throttle Body coupler for small throttle bodies
(0) Silicone Throttle Body coupler for large throttle bodies (sold separately)
(1) Silicone Radiator Hose
(1) Silicone Valve Cover Breather Hose (5/8” ID)
(1) Silicone Air Assist Valve Hose (3/8” ID)
(1) Bypass Manifold with sticker and filter element
(1) 6” Inlet, 3.5” Outlet Velocity Stack
(1) 6” ID Air Filter
(4) SAE 56 Stainless Steel Hose Clamps
(2) SAE 6 Stainless Steel Hose Clamps
(2) SAE 10 Stainless Steel Hose Clamps
(1) SAE 104 Stainless Steel Hose Clamp
(2) M8x1.25 20mm Class 12.9 bolts
(2) M8 Flat Washers
2
This intake system was developed for the 8th Generation Honda Civic Si. If your civic is not an Si or 8th generation, fitment is not guaranteed. We are currently in the process of evaluating fitment of this intake on the FD2 (JDM) and FN2 (EDM) civics. If you are trying to install this intake for those vehicles or any other vehicle, please contact us first to confirm that the parts will fit on your vehicle.
Introduction & Installation Notes A little bit of information to make sure you have the right parts before you get started!
3
Install Guide
STEP 1: Locate and remove the radiator cap so that coolant will flow freely when we go to drain the cooling system. The radia-tor cap is located towards the front of the engine bay and will be towards the right side of the engine bay (when viewed from the front of the car), near the battery and coolant overflow tank. DO NOT remove the radiator cap until the car has fully cooled. If the car has not fully cooled, you risk being sprayed with hot steam which can cause severe burns. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) can be checked using the dash-board’s ECT gauge or by using Flash-Pro.
STEP 2: Drain the coolant. The arrow in Figure 2 shows the location of the radiator drain bung. This is located on the underside of the radiator and is accessible through a small hole in the car’s plastic undertray. The bung is a white plastic plug. You can loosen it by turning it counterclockwise. Make sure the car has cooled or you risk getting burned by the hot coolant. Drain-ing the entire cooling system is not nec-essary. By removing at least 1 gallon from the radiator, you will have lowered the coolant level enough to swap out the upper radiator hose later.
STEP 2
STEP 1
4
STEP 4: There is a small Phillips head screw that affixes the edge of the bumper to the fender on both sides of the vehicle (one screw per side). The screw is accessible through the wheel well. Figure 4a shows the location of the bolt. Figure 4b shows a close up of the bolt’s location. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove these screws.
Install Guide
STEP 4
STEP 3b STEP 3a
STEP 3: While still under the car, it’s a good time to remove all of the OEM bumper clips. The clips are round and black and can be removed with a flat head screwdriver. Simply put the flat head into the slot on the clip and pry up the clip’s center section. (See Figure 3a). Once the center section is pulled up, the flathead screwdriver can be used under the outer section of the clip to pry it out of the bumper and/or undertray (See Figure 3b). There are quite a few of these clips 10 to 20 in all. Remove all of them
STEP 4a STEP 4b
5
STEP 5: To remove the bumper, we must first remove the black plastic cowling. The grill cover is held on by 4 clips that are similar to the clips we removed in Step 3. Their locations are shown by arrows in Figure 5.
Install Guide
STEP 7: Now that all of the bumper’s
clips, screws, and bolts have
been removed, we can take the
bumper off the car. The bumper
is held on by a series of claps.
First, grab the bumper at the tip
in each fender well and pull out-
wards as shown in step 7.
STEP 7
STEP 6
STEP 5
STEP 6: With the grill cover removed, we now have access to the remain-ing bolts that are holding the bumper on. Use a 5mm allen wrench to remove the 2 shoulder bolts located just above the grill, next to each headlight (see the arrows in Figure 6).
6
Install Guide
STEP 8: The last step in removing the
bumper is to pull it free from the
clasps that are located under
each headlight. Simply pull the
whole bumper forward (as shown
in Figure 8) to pull it free from the
car. Have a firm grip on the
bumper during this step as there
will be no other fasteners sup-
porting the bumper at this point.
To avoid damage to your paint,
set the bumper on something soft
like grass, carpeting, or a large
blanket.
STEP 9:
Next, we will remove the battery.
We’ll start by removing the bat-
tery tie down. First, pull the wir-
ing harness off of the tie down j-
hook. See Figure 9a and 9b for
illustrations.
STEP 9a
STEP 8
STEP 9b
7
Install Guide
STEP 10:
Using a 10mm deep socket, re-
move the (2) M6 nuts that are
holding the battery tie down in
place. With these removed, you
can remove the tie down and j-
hooks.
STEP 11: With the tie down removed, we
can now disconnect the battery.
Each terminal can be loosened
using a 10mm deep socket. Just
loosen each terminal enough so
that it slides off the battery post.
The negative terminal is shown in
Figure 11a; disconnect this termi-
nal first. The positive terminal
has a red cap that must be lifted
to access the terminal. It is
shown in Figure 11b; remove this
terminal last.
Now that the battery has been
fully disconnected, carefully lift it
out of the engine bay and set it
aside for now.
STEP 11b
STEP 11a
STEP 10
8
Install Guide
STEP 12:
With the battery removed, we
can now remove the coolant
overflow tank. Unscrew the
tank’s cap (as shown in Figure
12a). Set the tank’s cap and
hose in front of the radiator sup-
port (as shown in Figure 12b) so
that it is out of the way during lat-
er steps.
STEP 13: Next, just pull the tank up to free
it from its bracket. It will slide
right out. Be careful as the tank is
filled with coolant and will spill if
not kept upright. This tank will go
back in later. Set it aside for now.
STEP 13
STEP 12b
STEP 12a
9
Install Guide
STEP 14:
Now we’ll turn our attention to re-
moving the OEM intake compo-
nents. First, unbolt the resonator
from the chassis. The resonator
is located in front of the driver’s
side wheel (on left hand drive ve-
hicles) and is held on with (2) M6
bolts. Use a 10mm socket and a
long socket extension to access
these bolts. Figure 14a shows
the resonator. Figure 14b shows
the location of the first bolt you’ll
need to remove. Figure 14c
Shows the approximate location
of the 2nd bolt you’ll need to re-
move. With the 2 bolts removed,
the resonator can be removed
from the car. It has an inlet and
outlet pipe connected to it, but
the pipes just slide together, so
no hose clamps must be re-
moved.
STEP 14c
STEP 14b
STEP 14a
10
Install Guide
STEP 15:
Now we turn our attention to the
airbox and its piping. First, dis-
connect the engine harness from
the MAF sensor as shown in Fig-
ure 15.
STEP 16: Using a #2 Phillips head screw-
driver, remove the two screws
that hold the MAF in place. Pull
the MAF out of the airbox and set
it aside. It will be reinstalled into
your new cold air intake later.
STEP 17: Next, disconnect the valve cover breather hose. It is held on with a spring type hose clamp. To re-move the hose, compress the hose clamp with pliers and pull on the hose. If the hose seems to be stuck, spraying silicone spray or a similar lubricant between the hose and nipple then twisting the hose back and forth will help
STEP 17
STEP 16
STEP 15
11
Install Guide
STEP 18:
Next, repeat Step 17 but for the
air assist valve hose shown in
Figure 18.
STEP 19: Next, use a Phillips head screw-
driver to loosen the hose clamp
connecting the OEM intake to the
throttle body.
STEP 20: Remove the tube that connects the resonator (from step 14) to the airbox. The tube that con-nects the two parts simply slides onto both. It takes a bit of force and wiggling to pull the hose off, but no tools should be needed. Once disconnected, the pipe can be remove that pipe from the ve-hicle, but it can be difficult to snake out, so you may wish to wait until you remove the airbox and battery tray to remove this pipe.
STEP 20
STEP 19
STEP 18
12
Install Guide
STEP 21:
The airbox is held to the engine
and transmission by (4) bolts.
Use a 12mm socket and medium
length extension to get to them.
They are difficult to see, but ar-
rows are shown in Figure 21
showing their approximate loca-
tions. Once all (4) bolts are
STEP 22: This step is optional. At the back
of the transmission is an alumi-
num bracket that previously sup-
ported the airbox. This bracket is
no longer needed and is an eye
sore to some people. If you wish
to remove it, use a 10mm socket
to remove the (3) M6 bolts that
hold the bracket to the back side
of the transmission.
STEP 23: Next, remove the upper radiator hose. Shown in this picture is one of our silicone radiator hoses with optional t-bolt clamps. If you have our t-bolt clamps, you will need a 10mm deep socket to re-move them. If you have the OEM clamps, you will use a pliers to remove them like in steps 17 and 18. Once the clamps are loos-ened, remove the radiator hose from the car
STEP 23
STEP 22
STEP 21
13
Install Guide
STEP 25:
The last part we’ll need to re-
move before beginning installa-
tion is the OEM battery tray. The
battery tray is bolted to the frame
using (4) M8 bolts. 2 are assess-
able from the top of the tray, the
other 2 are assessable from the
side. Use a 12mm socket and ex-
tensions to remove these bolts.
Figure 24 shows (2) of the (4)
bolts.
STEP 26: Woohooo! Time to (finally) start
installing some new parts! Let’s
start by installing the (sexy) new
battery tray. The (sexy) new bat-
tery tray will use 2 of the original
4 bolts holes (the 2 that were on
top of the OEM tray). Carefully
lower the (sexy) battery tray in
place and install the supplied
bolts and washers told hold it in
place. The new M8 bolts should
be tightened using an M6 allen
socket. Tighten the (dry) bolts to
35 lb-ft (47 N-m). Did we mention
how sexy that battery tray is?
Damn, girl!
STEP 26
STEP 25
STEP 24
STEP 24:
The lower radiator hose has a
small metal bracket supporting it.
Remove it using a 12mm socket.
14
Install Guide
STEP 27:
With the battery tray secured,
you can now place the battery in-
to it. There are a few things you
should know before attempting to
put the battery in place. First, the
battery is a pretty tight fit, so you
will have to nudge the lower radi-
ator hose out of the way. It’s im-
portant that you install the battery
so that it’s oriented the same way
as shown in Figure 27. This flips
the battery 180 degrees com-
pared to its OEM location. This is
important because if you don’t
orient the battery this way, the
battery terminals won’t reach.
STEP 28: Before attaching the battery ter-
minals, the negative battery ca-
ble needs to be moved to a dif-
ferent attachment point on the
chassis so it reaches. Figure 28a
shows an arrow pointing to the
original attachment location. The
cable is shown bolted to its new
location in Figure 28b(it shares a
bolt with the clutch line bracket).
Once the cable is attached to its
new location, you can attach it to
the negative battery terminal us-
ing a 10mm deep socket.
STEP 28b
STEP 27
STEP 28a
15
Install Guide
STEP 29:
Attach and tighten the positive
battery terminal. Tighten it using
a 10mm deep socket and make
sure that the protective cover is
in the downward and locked posi-
tion to avoid any chance of the
battery grounding out. Also, take
this time to reinstall the battery
tie down. The battery tray has
holes at the base to slide the
OEM j hooks through.
STEP 30: To make room for the coolant
reservoir’s new location, you’ll
need to remove a small plastic
clip next to the radiator filler
neck. A flat head screwdriver can
be used to pry the clip off. If you
are concerned about breaking
the clip, you can use a pliers on
the opposite side of the metal it
hooks into to squeeze the clip
and help it to slide out.
STEP 31: Next, slide the coolant reservoir onto the bracket (the bracket is part of the new battery tray). Once the reservoir is in place, you can put the cap back on it. Position the hose for the reser-voir as shown in Figure 31.
STEP 31
STEP 30
STEP 29
16
Install Guide
STEP 32:
Install the new silicone radiator hose that was supplied with your intake. This radia-tor hose is designed to provide more clearance for the large intake piping. Use the hose clamps you removed from the original radiator hose to affix it in place. Before proceeding, make sure you can shift through all gears smoothly. If the transmission counterweight hits the radia-tor hose, loosen the hose clamps and twist the hose so that the counterweight no longer hits the hose.
STEP 33: Before attempting to install the intake into your car, it’s wise to partially assem-ble the piping. Use (2) of the included hose clamps to connect the throttle body coupler (labeled “1” in Figure 33), by-pass manifold (labeled “2” in Figure 33), and 3.5” inlet section (labeled “3” in Fig-ure 33). Section 3 is symmetric, so it does not matter which end you use. When installing the 2 hose clamps as, indicated by the two red arrows in Figure 33, be sure not to over tighten these as this can damage the compo-site bypass manifold. Also, make sure that the clamps are as close to the end of the silicone tubing as possible. Simply tighten them enough to hold eve-rything together. The throttle body cou-pler has a bend in it; try to orient the bend as shown in Figure 33. The bypass manifold has a number of ports on it, ori-ent them as shown in Figure 33. Install one of the included hose clamps at the end of the throttle body coupler in prepa-ration for the next step.
STEP 33
STEP 32
1 2
3
NOTE There are 2 different throttle body cou-plers available for this intake system. The coupler supplied with the kit is de-signed to fit the OEM throttle body as well as the very popular J35 throttle body. If you are using a larger throttle body such as an aftermarket 70mm (or larg-er) throttle body or the Acura ZDX throt-tle body, you will need to purchase the big bore coupler that we produce for this kit.
17
Install Guide
STEP 34:
Take the partially assembled in-
take from Step 33 and place it in-
to the engine bay. The inlet sec-
tion should get inserted through
the hole at the fender well, and
the throttle body coupler will get
placed on the throttle body. Once
properly positioned, Tighten the
hose clamp at the throttle body.
STEP 35: Next, install the velocity stack
and filter. If the velocity stack and
filter were supplied already con-
nected, check the large hose
clamp to ensure it’s tightened
well. With the filter and velocity
stack connected, slide the last
3.5” hose clamp over the inlet of
the silicone tube, then slide the
velocity stack into the silicone
tube.
STEP 36: Next, install the MAF into the by-pass manifold as shown in Figure 36. Use the same 2 screws that held it into the OEM airbox. Once screwed in, reconnect the OEM MAF connection (on the engine harness) to the MAF.
STEP 36
STEP 35
STEP 34
18
Install Guide
STEP 37:
Next, use the supplied 5/8” ID
hose and (2) SAE 10 hose
clamps to connect the larger port
on the bypass manifold to the
breather port on the valve cover.
Also use the 3/8” ID hose and (2)
SAE 6 hose clamps to connect
the smaller port on the bypass
manifold to the Air Bypass Valve
on the intake manifold.
STEP 38: With the battery tray and intake installed, it’s now safe to refill the radiator. Before fill-
ing the system, check the drain plug under the radiator to make sure it’s closed.
There are few things more annoying than filling a radiator only to find that you left the
drain plug open and are letting your coolant pour all over the ground.
STEP 37: It’s now time to start reinstalling your bumper. Just follow steps 3-8 in reverse order to get the bumper back on. Be carefull when aligning the bumper up in step 8 as it’s easy to get the clips under the headlights misaligned. If you’re having trouble getting the bumper to line up correctly, chances are the clips under the headlights are the culprit. Try pulling the bumper off again and getting a helper to make sure the bumper lines up with the clips under one headlight while you check the other.
STEP 37
STEP 38: Before starting the car, make sure you have a MAP-based calibration loaded into your FlashPro or similar tuning software. Do not start the car up with a MAF-based calibra-tion as this will cause the car to run leaner than intended and there is no way to create a MAF-based tune that works properly with this intake design. Hondata provides base maps with MAP-based calibrations. Select the one most suited for your setup and up-load it to your FlashPro. Every car is different, so expect some minor tweaks to be needed to make the most power and to get your AF ratios correct.
19
If you have any questions or comments, please email support at [email protected]
Legal Disclaimer
Users assume all cost and risk associated with these or any other items purchased from Hybrid Racing LLC. Parts sold or manufactured by Hybrid Racing LLC may not meet legal requirements for use on public roads. People thinking about purchasing product(s) from Hybrid Racing LLC should check with their local and state authorities for legality. It is the user’s re-sponsibility to know and comply with all local and federal laws and regulations. Use or installation of Hybrid Racing LLC products may affect user insurance and/or vehicle warranty coverage. It is the user’s sole responsibility for consequences that may occur due to having the product installed in his/her vehicle. Hybrid Racing LLC assumes no legal responsibilities and/or liabilities, whether to us-er’s vehicle, engine, person(s), and/or property(s), that result from the use of, or servic-ing of a vehicle of which a Hybrid Racing LLC product has been installed/attempted to be installed, or to any other vehicle(s) and/or person(s), regardless of whether or not this product has any involvement directly or indirectly and/or liability, and/or whether or not proper installation has been carried forth. All engines, engine parts and electrical components are for OFF ROAD USE ONLY/RACING VEHICLES ONLY. They are not for or to be used on public roads in the USA. Acquisition of a Hybrid Racing LLC product will act as an acknowledgement of the le-gal disclaimer stated herein. Hybrid Racing LLC reserves the right to change this disclaimer at any time without any prior consent or notification.
Should you need to contact us our details are as follows: Hybrid Racing LLC, 12231 Industriplex Suite B, Baton Rouge, LA 70809
www.hybrid-racing.com