Huskylock 936 Owners Handbook x

jHusqvarna VIKING

HUSQVARNA VIKINGHUSKYLOCK

OWNER’S HANDBOOKModel 936

© 200 iViking Sewing Machines Inc.Printed in USA

Part # 430 000032

INTRODUCTION

Welcome to the world of easy, speed sewing. The Husqvama VikingHuskylock was designed with the home sewer in mind. It is simple to thread,simple to change from regular sewing to cover stitch and specialty sewing, such asflatlock and rolled edge. The automatic thread tension release will help you in easyremoval of your projects and creative sewing. This handbook is compiled in amethod so you will thoroughly understand the machine and its potential Afterfollowing these instructions, you will marvel at how easy your new HusqvarnaViking Huskylock serger is to operate.

SECTION I

KNOW YOUR MACHINE - MODEL 936

The top-of-the-line Huskylock model 936 is a computerized serger with built inSewing Advisor, automatic self-adjusting stitch length and differential feed. It has a6mm, 3mm and triple cover stitch, chain stitch, 5, 4, 3 and 2 thread capabilities. Also anadjustable stitch width and built in rolled edge. With many machines in one, you can sewwith decorative threads and specialty applications with the optional accessory feetavailable. A section of this handbook outlines many different techniques, optionalspecialty feet, and simple, quick projects for you to try on your new Huskylock

2

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19 20 21

\

Name of Parts1. Presser foot pressure adjustment dial2. Spoolpin3. Thread take-up lever cover4. Thread guides5. Telescopic thread stand6. Thread tension dials7. Presser foot lift lever8. Thread cutter9. Thread guides for decorative thread /

cording thread10. Upper cutter knob11.Presser foot12. Sewing surface, flat bed cover13. Cutting width / stitch width adjusting dial14. Cutter cover15. Front panel16. Front cover17. Handwheel18. Sewing Advisor liquid crystal display

(LCD)19. Stitch finger20. Upper cutter21.Stitch finger lever

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

9

3

HUSKYLOCK SET UP AND MAINTENANCE

1. Set your Huskylock on a sturdy, flat surface.

2. Your Huskylock has been thoroughly oiled atthe factory so be sure and wipe the needle and bedplate areas carefully before sewing a garment.Practice on a scrap of fabric so any surplus oil isabsorbed.

3. FOOT CONTROLPush one end of the foot control cord into the footcontrol (first time only) and the other end into themachine near the on/off switch.

4. POWER/LIGHT SWITCHPlug in the power cord. To operate your machine,turn the power switch on. It is located at the bottomright hand side. The same switch controls both powerand light. If leaving your Huskylock unattended, turnswitch off.

5. OPENING FRONT COVERTo open front cover, push part “B” at the arrow to theright and pull the cover down toward you.

6. CLOSING FRONT COVERRaise front cover (part B) and slide it toward the centerof the front to close it.Note: Alwajs closefront cover when sewing. Thefront cover hasa safqy switch which will not allow you to sew with thefrontcover open.

7. PRESSER FOOT LIFTLift up the presser foot lift to raise the presser foot.The foot lift stops at position A. When replacingthe presser foot or when inserting very thick fabricsunder the presser foot, the lift height can be increasedby pushing the presser foot lift to position B andholding it there. Make sure the upper looper is in itslowest position.Note: You cannot sew with presserfoot up. Your Huskylockwill beep and a message will come up on the Sewing Advisor“Lower Presser Foot”.

[verJ

Front cover

OFFJ

Presser foot ft

Presser foot

4

8. HANDWHEELAlways turn handwheel toward you.If you turn handwheel away from you, you willflip the threads off the take-up lever. When thishappens, your serger will no longer form a stitch,and you will need to re-thread.

9. CHANGING PRESSER FEETSwitch of/your Husky/ock.Raise presser foot. Raise needles to their highestpositionby turning handwheel toward you. Pushred lever “A” and foot will come off. Position thenew foot with pin right under the groove of theankle. Lower presser foot lift and foot will snaponto the ankle. If it doesn’t snap on easily, pressred lever “A” with ft)ot and ankle down, and it

should easily snap into place.

10. ADJUSTMENT OF THE PRESSERFOOT PRESSUREThe presser foot pressure is pre-adjusted formaterials of medium thickness. Adjustment isnecessary only when you work on very thin orvery thick materials. Accordin,gly, sew thinnermaterials with less pressure (i-N) and thickermaterials with more pressure N-5). Increasethe pressure of the presser foot by pressing thelever to the desired number. However, it mayvary depending on the type of fabric and thetechnique you are serging.

11. FINE TUNE STITCH WIDTHIf you experience loops along the edge of thefabric when sewing on lightweight fabrics,simply slide the stitch finger lever toward the

one or two notches. Test sew on a scrapof the fabric you will be using for correctadjustment before beginning project.

Remove

A

Attach

I

Stitch finger lever

NIate

5

f

12. ACCESSORY BOXLift the accessory box slightly (1) and slide it in

direction of the arrow (2). The accesso v box

consists of two parts. It holds the foot controland other accessories. To slide the box back on,reverse the above steps.

13. DISENGAGING UPPER CUTTEROpen the front cover. To lower the upper cutter,remove the flat bed cover and the free arm coverby pulling respective covers in the direction of thearrows. Push in the knob to its maximum pointand turn the upper cutter according to the arrowson the knob until cutter is all the way in downposition.Note: unless31ou are set uJr coverstitch or chainstitch,you MUST sew along the eage of thefabric when the cutteris disengaged. Failure to do so could lead to a bent or broken looper.Be sure to put cutter back in full upright positionbefore beginning to serge regular seam.

14. SEWING SPEEDYou have three sewing speeds to choose for bettercontrol.

0-500 maximum speed 500 stitches/minute

A 0-1000 maximum speed 1000 stitches/minute

A 0-1300 maximum speed 1300 stitches/minute

15. TELESCOPIC THREAD STANDExtend the telescopic thread stand to its full height andturn it until it locks against the stop. Make sure theround decorative thread loop is to the left. El

I

flvto P1 iover r*ed5thr-e-d over lockLerrth: 2.5 Diff 1.@N AC N 4 5 3 N N

Indlcatoc

El a a a a a EL1 Speed

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-I

6

16. FREE ARMPull out the flat bed cover (A) in the direction of thearrow, The free arm is convenient for sewing trouserslegs, cuffs and other small areas such as children’sgarments.

17. OILINGWe suggest oiling after every 8 hours of sergingor after it has not been used for awhile. Brushout all lint, then oil all moving parts.

18. CLEANINGFirst, disconnect machine from power supply byremoving plug from electric outlet. Open front

cover (see page 4). Using the brush provided,

remove all dust and lint that has accumulated.

Remember to also clean between the cutters

often. Using mini vac attachment will clean the

lint out of your Huskylock. Blowing inside or

using canned air can force the lint into the serger.

STORAGE

When the serger is not in use, disconnect it

from the power supply by removing plug fromthe electric outlet.

Using the vinyl cover provided, cover yourHuskylock when not in use.

}

7

HINTS FOR SUCCESSFUL STITCHING

An understanding of the following variables will make your Huskylock run smoothly and

your serging look professional. Before sewing, always test the compatibility of your

fabric, thread, pressure, stitch length and tension.

THREAD SELECTIONWhen selecting the proper thread, choose one that is compatible with the fabric.

Polyester threads (or polyester based) are most commonly used for general sewing

purposes. Threads of different fibers (cotton, rayon, silk, etc.) are available for special

sewing.

Quality is a very important consideration when selecting a thread. A thread of poor

quality will result in operating and stitching problems on any type of sewing machine or

serger. Twisting filaments together makes synthetic threads. Twisting short, leftover

filaments of polyester together makes lower quality synthetic threads. The result is a

“hairy” appearance and a weaker thread. Twisting long continuous filaments together

makes better quality threads. This thread is stronger and smoother, thus fewer operating

problems will occur. Brand name and price do not necessarily represent quality in a

thread. The only true test of thread quality is close examination.

A variety of threads are available for overlocks. They may be of cotton, cotton-wrapped

polyester, polyester or nylon (Wooly Nylon®). These are most often put up on cones or

tubes. Overlock threads are generally finer and lighter in weight than standard sewing

machine thread. This is because of the large amount of thread that builds up in an

overlock seam. Finer thread allows a less bulky seam. Your Huskylock will handle

thread on cones or spools. Many decorative threads will be discussed later in this

handbook.

8

NEEDLE REPlACEMENT

Replace needles in the following way:

1. Bring needles to their highest position by tappingthe foot control or turning handwheel toward you.

2. Lower presser foot.

3. Remove alien wrench from accessory box.

4. When replacing right rear needle, loosen needleclamp screw marked “D” and remove needle.Hint: Use needle inserter to remove or insert needle topreventfrom dropping needle inside machine.Re-tighten needle clamp screw so it doesn’t fall out.Be sure to store extra loose needles in needlecushion located in accessory box.

To replace left rear needle, loosen needle clamp screwmarked “C”.

The front needles are used for cover stitch and chainstitch. Size 90 Schmetz should always be used in thefront positions.•The “A” or left front needle in used for chain stitch,left needle 6mm cover stitch and tn-cover stitch.

•The “B” or center front needle is used for left needle3mm cover stitch or center needle for tn-cover stitch.You can also use the center needle for chain stitch.

•The “E” or right front needle is used for right needle6mm or 3mm cover stitch.NOTE: You can also use the left front and centerfront needles for 3mm cover stitch. Be sure and adjusttensions accordingly.

Insert needle with flat side away from you.Insert needle, using needle inserter, into groove ofneedle bar, as high as it will go. You should see the topof the needle in the window above needle clamp screw.

Use Schmetz needles I 30/705H.Change needles after each project for best results.

J

9

NEEDLES, THREAD & FABRIC CHART

NEEDLESProper needles are important when using your Husqvarna Viking Huskylock. A standardsewing machine needle of good quality, Schmetz brand, should be used in yourHuskylock. Change needles often for best results.

caution: Do not use Singer brand need/es injour I-Iuskji/ock. These can cause skbped stitches andpossib/y bend or break need/es or damage /oopers.

THREADAny good quality cotton, polyester, silk, synthetic threads, etc. can be used on \ourHuskylock. Wooly Nylon® , a stretchy, yarn-like thread, is recommended in upper andlower loopers for rolled edge and lingerie. It is also recommended for cover stitchlooper for maximum strength and elasticity in swimwear, knit fabrics and lingerie.

Lightweight: Polyester #80Tropical, Jersey, Crepe Cotton #60

WOOLMedium weight: Polyester #80-60Gabardine, Flannel Cotton #60

Heavy weight: Polyester #60-50Velours, Cameihairs Cotton #60

Lightweight: Polyester #100-80SYNTHETIC Microfiber, Georgette, Crepe Cotton #120-80

Heavyweight: Polyester #60Polar Fleece, Tafeta, Twills Cotton #60

FABRIC THREAD NEEDLE

LINEN &COTTON

Lightweight:Organdy, Batiste, Calico Cotton #80

Heavyweight:Oxford, Denim, Corduroy

Polyester #60-50Cotton #60

80 (12) or90 (14) forcover stitchor generalsewing

KNIT

75 (11)for lightweightfabrics

Lightweight:Tricot, Jersey, Lycra

Heavyweight:Fleece

Polyester #80-60Cotton #80-60

Polyester #60-50Wooly Nylon

10

SEWING ADVISOR

The Sewing Advisor (LCD Display Guide) shows allstitch settings. Simply select the type and weight offabric you will be sewing on and the technique desired(16 pre-set settings) and the stitch length anddifferential feed will be automatically set for you.All other settings are recommended for the bestresults.

The buttons below can either be pressedone step at a time or held until the desiredsetting is obtained.

N

1. A Auto button. Press for Auto mode.

______

2. M= Memory button. Press to retrievestored settings or store new settingpreferences in memory.

3. Stitch selector button. Retrieve the 16pre-set stitches in Auto mode.

4. Fabric selection button. Select fabric types inAuto mode. Choose from 6 types and weights.

5. Cursor button. Access Manual mode to enterand/or alter settings. Cursor moves as follows:Stitch Length — Differential Feed — Stitch Width —

Thread Tensions.In Memory mode: Cursor moves to stored memories.

6-7. Plus (+) and minus (-) buttons in Manual mode:Settings increase (+) or decrease (-).In Memory mode: Cursor moves to stored memories.

8. Speed — Speed selection button — choose from 3 speeds.

Information displayed in Sewing Advisor:• Auto mode and stitch number (Auto P1)•Fabric type and weight (Woven med) — A “Not advised”message appears when the setting is not recommended for the type of fabric selected.

‘Stitch description (5 thread overlock)•Automatic Stitch Length setting (Length: 2.5)‘Automatic Differential Feed setting (Diff 1.0)‘Stitch Finger position (N) for normal or R for rolled

‘Needle position (AC) — which needles to insert

‘Stitch Width (N) — Recommended stitch/cutting width is displayed. A L in the SewingAdvisor is displayed for techniques in which the cutter needs to be lowered; coverstitchand chainstitch.

2

SPEED

E*D U U U U U USPEED

11

•Thread tensions (N N N N N) — The recommended thread tension is displayed. Eachthread tension dial corresponds to color symbols from left to right.

Note: When first turning on your Huskylock or when selecting a new technique, theSewing Advisor will say

Use Accessory Type SPress Auto Button

Your Sewing Advisor is telling you to use the “S” foot, “5” plate and have theChain/Cover select lever on “S”.Likewise, if it says

Use Accessory Type CPress Auto Button

Your Sewing Advisor is telling you to use the “C” foot, “C” plate and have theChain/Cover select lever on “C”.

Press Auto button (A) to give you the rest of the information needed to set up for thattechnique, i.e.: tensions, needles, stitch width, etc.

12

STORING NEW SETTINGS IN MEMORY

1. After changing the setting in Manual Mode, press the “M” button and thememory number will blink. If the blinking memory number is already used,“Overwrite OK?” message appears and blinks.

2. If you want to overwrite, press the “M” button.3. Example: Memory 01 has something saved in it and states “overwrite ok?”4. If you do not want to overwrite, press the (+) button until you reach an empty

memory. When the memory is empty, “Memory empty” blinks. Press the “M”button to store.

5. If you do not want to overwrite or store, press the “A” button to leave the memorymode. Example: Press the (+) button twice and memory number 3, which is empty,will be displayed.

6. There are 50 personal memories available. Make notes in the hack of your Owner’smanual as you store memories for later reference.

Retrieve from memory:1. When turning on the power switch, the recommended standard settings are displayed.2. Press the “M” button. Now “Memory” will appear with the last setting you made

before turning off the machine.3. Select the memory you want to use by pressing the (+) or (-) buttons.4. You are now ready to sew.

Delete from memory:1. Press the “M” button. Now “Memory” appears with the last setting you made before

turning off the machine.2. Select the memory you wish to delete by pressing the (+) or (-) buttons.3. Then press the stitch selector button and the fabric selector button simultaneously.

Now “Clear Memor” appears and starts to blink.Note: If you want to cancel the deletion, release both keys.

4. Press the “M” button while pressing the stitch selection button and the fabricselection button at the same time to execute the deletion.

5. “Memory Empty” appears and the settings are deleted. Press the “A” button forstandard settings.

__________________________________

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_______________________________

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Ic D C C C C CSPEEDJ

C C C C C C CSPEED

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13

SECTION II

THREADING & TENSION

Preparation for Threading

Cone HoldersFor large cones of thread, use the white plasticcone holders. This will help hold the cone ofthread in place.

Spool Caps —

When using small spoois or decorative threads,remove the plastic cone holders (a drop of oilwill make the holder slide off easily). Place thespool directly on the spool pin. Use the spoolcap to keep the spool in place and to prevent thethread from catching on edges of the spool.

Thread NetsSpools of specialty thread sometimes work loosefrom the spool during sewing, causing tanglingor irregular thread feeding. To prevent this, usethe thread net provided as shown. Slide on the netso that it covers the spool entlreiv.

NOTE: Specialty threads, such as fine perle cotton,

YLI Designer 6®, Ribbon Floss®, YLI Jeans Stitch®

and YLI Pearl Crown Rayon® may be used in theloopers of your Huskylock. For successful stitchingbe sure these threads feed off their spools or skeins easily.

L1

14

THREADING

Your Huskylock is very easy to thread. With some practice you will be able to thread it

in a few minutes. Master the correct threading before starting your first project.

To become familiar with your Huskylock, practice on a scrap of fabric with different

color threads to identify placement and function of each thread.

Threading must be carried out in the following sequence for total ease of operation:

Upper Looper — Lower Looper — Cover Stitch Looper — Right Needle — Left Needle.

Extend the thread pole to its highest point, then turn it until the shaft clicks into its

locked position (see page 6).

15

FOUR THREAD OVERLOCKUPPER LOOPER THREADING

Open front cover. Raise the presser foot.

Bring the upper looper to its highest position byturning the handwheel toward you. Pull threadfrom spooi and lay it into slot (1) on the top ofthe thread stand (front to back) dropping thethread over the back. The end of the thread willcome back to the front automatically because ofthe twist in the thread guides on the top of thethread stand.

Next, bring thread down and snap into threadclip guide (2). It is easiest to snap into clip bypuffing thread toward back and front ofHuskylock at the same time (like flossing) untilthe thread snaps into place.NOTE: Use decorative thread guides instead ofthread clip guides when using heavier decorativethreads.

With the presser foot raised to release thetensions, lay thread between thread tensiondiscs (3). Be sure thread is seeded all the wayinto the tension discs by snapping into discs.

Continue to thread in order, through guides asillustrated to right and inside front cover of yourHuskylock.

Thread the eye of the Upper Looper © usingthe tweezers provided. Pull a 4” —5” (10cm)thread tail out. Bring thread tail under foot andtoward back left corner of Huskylock.

NOTE: For all sewing except two-threadsewing, set the 2-thread converter as illustratedto right.

,-

‘—

F— -‘

%___

F- N

16

FOUR THREAD OVERLOCKLOWER LOOPER THREADING

Bring the thread from the spool up and over thethread stand, laying thread front to back (same asfor Upper Looper, page 16) through slot (1).Bring thread down and snap into thread clipguide (2) (same as for Upper Looper).

NOTE: Use decorative thread guides instead ofthread clip guides when using heavier decorativethreads.

With the presser foot raised to release tension, laythread between thread tension discs (3). Be surethread is seeded all the way into the tension discs.Turn the handwheel toward you and position thelower looper to the far right.

Continue threading in order, through guides asillustrated to right and inside front cover of yourHuskylock.NOTE: For best results when sewing narrowedge, thread through guide (a).

Push lever (A) of lower looper in direction of thearrow until the thread holes are in front of eachother. Thread through the eyes of the lowerlooper. The lower looper threader automaticallyreturns to its original position by turning thehandwheel toward you one full turn, or when youbegin sewing.

Pull Out 4”-5” (10cm) thread tail, then bringthread tail under foot and toward the back leftcorner of the Huskylock.

,

-

17

FOUR THREAD OVERLOCKNEEDLE THREADING

Raise the needles to their highest position byturning the handwheel toward you.

The left rear needle is marked with a letter “C”and the right rear needle is marked with aletter “D”.

Bring the thread from the spool and pass itthrough the guides on thread stand (1)(front toback), then under thread clip guide (2).

Lay thread between tension discs (3). Be surethread is seeded all the way into the tensiondiscs.

Follow thread guides and arrows on yourHuskylock for each needle thread. Be sure toseparate on each side of guide (A) with the leftthread on the left side of the thread separatorand the right thread on the right side. Thiswill help prevent the threads from tanglingwhile sewing.

Using needle threader (located in the accessorybox), lay the thread across the “V” (groove) ofthe needle threader. Hold needle threader tothe needle with the triangle mark on top. Slideit down the needle to the needle eye. The pinand thread will insert through the eye, leavinga loop of thread through the eve of the needle.Using the tweezers, pull loop of threadthrough eye of needle.

Thread both needles the same way.

18

TESTING STITCH

After threading is complete, set tensions as recommended in Sewing Advisor. Test your

Huskylock stitch in the following order:

1. Be sure the front cover is closed and presser foot is lowered. Your Huskylock will

not sew with the front cover open or the presser foot up. A beep will sound and a

message will appear in the Sewing Advisor LCD display screen, telling you to “Close

front cover” or “Lower presser foot”.

2. Without fabric under the presser foot, gently puil the ends of the threads toward the

rear of the machine, turning the handwheel toward you a few times to make sure the

stitch forms on the stitch finger.

3. Sew on scrap fabric first, When you reach the end of the fabric, raise the presser foot

and remove the fabric from your Huskylock. Use the handy thread cutter on your

Huskylock to cut your threads. Use the illustrations on page 21 to check the stitchformation produced to see if it is uniform. If not, you will need to adjust tensions

and /or re-check threading.

19

4 THREAD OVERLOCKTHREAD TENSIONS

Thread tensions will vary according to the type and weight (thickness) of your thread and

fabric. In most cases these tensions will only vary slightly. Turning the tension dial to alower number gives you less tension. Threading your Huskylock with four differentcolors of thread will help you identify the placement and function of each thread.

Upper Looper Thread should be flat on the top side of fabric and lock with the lowerlooper thread along the edge.

Lower Looper Thread should be flat on the underside of the fabric and lock with theupper looper thread along the edge.

The Needle Threads should lay mainly on the top side like two rows of normal straightsewing. The left needle will form a line of sewing along the left edge connecting the twolooper threads. The right needle acts as a “safety stitch” forming a line of stitchingthrough the middle of the upper looper thread.

Set your Huskylock according to the tensions recommended in the Sewing Advisor. Trytest sewing on a piece of medium weight fabric. These tension recommendations are formedium weight fabric. It may be necessary to adjust the thread tension(s) slightly asdifferent weights of fabric and thread can make a difference. Your tensions shouldremain in the outlined area on the tension dial. If you need to change the tensions, markthem down for future reference or put them in one of the 50 personal memories (page13).

Left Needle (Yellow) -NWRight Needle (Red) -N-Upper Looper (Green) -N-Lower Looper (Blue) -N

We will refer to these tensions as normal.

20

4 THREAD OVERLOCKADJUSTING THREAD TENSION

Left Needle ThreadLoose and visible onunderside of fabric.

Upper Looper ThreadPulled to the Underside

Lower Looper ThreadPulled to the Topside

Increase lower looperthread tension and/ordecrease upper loopertension.

Right Needle ThreadLoose and visible onunderside of fabric.

Increase left needle tensionand/or decrease both loopers.

Increase right needle threadtension.

Correct Tension

Lower looper— thread

Right needlethread

Upper looperthread

r>> ]Lower looperthread

___

Left needlethread

Right needlethreadUpper looperthread

‘ Left needlethread

1)

1D c ®II5I Il II3I I3I

>II’lllli

J

Lower looperthread

L Left needlethread

L Right needlethreadUpper looperthread

Increase upper looper threadtension and/or decreaselower looper tension

Lower looperWrong sidethread

Left needlethread

Right needle4

threadUpper looperRight sidethread

I

21

SECTION III

BASIC SEWING TECHNIQUES

Sew samples for the next section of this handbook, and record your tension settings oneach page for future reference. Glue or staple your sample over drawn sample or onopposite page for future reference.

The following techniques are designed to help you finish seams, turn corners easily andgive you tips to get the most Out of your Huskylock.

22

FOUR THREAD SEAM & SEAM FINISH

Seam and overcast all in one step. Your Huskylock produces fast. Professionally finishedgarments.

Machine Setting:4 thread OverlockAccessory Type: S

Fabric Type:Woven Medium

Tension Settings:Set your tensions on normal setting.

Left Needle (Yellow) -N-Right Needle (Red) -N-

_________

Upper Looper (Green) -N-Lower Looper (Blue)

Seam and Overcast:1. Fold fabric in half.2. Place under presser foot with folded edge to be trimmed3. Use your 5/8” seam allowance as a guide.4. Lower presser foot and serge seam.5. Continue serging a thread chain, leaving 6”-8”.6. Lift the presser foot and pull your sample away, cutting the threads on the thread

cutter.

To overcast raw edges for conventional seaming:Serge single layer along one edge of above sample to finish raw cut edge of fabric.Glue or staple your sample over drawing above or on opposite page.

to the right.

ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH

Select any fabric type and technique on your Sewing Advisor and your stitch length willbe automatically set. To override the selected stitch length, touch the button and thestitch length setting will begin blinking. Touch the “+“ or “-“ button to change thesetting. When you begin to sew, your Huskylock will automatically change the stitchlength to the new setting. There is a brief pause of the machine for the adjustment to bemade.

Machine Setting:4 thread OverlockAccessory Type: SStitch Length: I — 5 (see illustration below)



Left Needle Yellow) -NRight Needle (Red) -N

_________

Upper Looper (Green) -NLower Looper (Blue)

Serge:I. Fold fabric in half.2. Change stitch length to 5mm.3. Serge along edge, stopping every inch and decreasing stitch length to 4, then 3, etc.

24

ADJUSTING CUTTING WIDTH &FINE TUNE STITCH WIDTH

The cutting width can be adjusted from 5mm to 7mm by simply turning the cuttingwidth dual according to the type of fabric you are working with. The fine tune stitch

width allows you to achieve the best stitch possible on all fabric types, while preventing

loops along the edge of the fabric. To adjust the fine tune stitch width, slide the stitch

finger toward you one or two markings.

The normal setting for the cutting widthisN.

Adjust the cutting width by turning dial (a)on the front of your Huskylock.

If the cutting width is narrower than thestitch width, leaving loops along the edgeof the fabric, turn the cutting width dialtoward 7 or slide the fine tune stitch widthadjustment lever (21)forward one to twonotches to eliminate looping.

If the cutting width is wider than the stitchwidth, causing a pucker within the overlockseam, turn the cutting width adjustmentdial toward 5 or slide the fine tune stitchwidth adjustment lever away from you tothe normal setting.

f-

%%

Cutting Width Adjustment

Fine Tune Stitch Width Adjustment

25

ADJUSTING CUTTING WIDTH

The cutting width can be changed for different techniques and types of fabric. Looselywoven or heavy knit fabrics require a wider width while lighter weight fabrics require anarrower seam width.

Machine Setting:4 thread OverlockAccessory Type: SStitch Width: N and 7




_________

Upper Looper (Green) -NLower Looper (Blue) -N

__________

Serge:1. Serge along one edge of fabric with the stitch width on 5mm.2. Serge along the opposite edge of the fabric with the stitch width on 7mm.3. For a narrow or wide stitch width, see three thread sewing techniques on page 38.

26

SECURING BEGINNING & END OF SEAM

At most ends of seams and finished edges are later stitched over during garmentconstruction, it is often not necessary to lock ends. When needed, use one of thefollowing methods.





_________


Securing Beginning of Seam:1. Fold fabric in half.2. Stitch 2-3 stitches into fabric, then stop sewing.3. Raise presser foot. Bring chain around left side

of foot and under front of cutter.4. Lower presser foot and sew, cutting off excess chain.

Securing End of Seam:1. Sew to end of fabric.2. Raise presser foot to release thread tensions and pull fabric 1” from foot toward back

left corner.3. Re-insert fabric under foot about I” from end and serge over previous stitching.4. ‘With needles raised, raise presser foot and pull sample out. Use thread cutter to cut

threads.

Optional Securing Methods:1. You may tie a knot in the thread ends. This method requires about 3” of extra thread

chain. After tying knot, ttim ends.

2. Use a small amount of Fray StoppaTM at the ends.

3. Thread ends into the finished seam. This requires one or two inches of thread at theend and is usually the best choice for decorative finishes. Using a large eyed needle,thread end of threads through eye, and slide back under stitching to conceal.

27

OUTSIDE CORNERS

With a little practice, you can stitch neat outside corners on your Huskylock. Thistechnique is perfect for napkins, tablecloths and decorative threads.





_________

Upper Looper (Green)Lower Looper (Blue) -N-

_________

Serge:1. Sew along one side of fabric to corner without cutting fabric. (Use cutter as a guide.)2. Raise the needles and presser foot to release thread tensions.3. Gently slide the threads off the stitch finger of the needle plate by pulling fabric

toward back of Huskylock approximately ¼”.4. Grasp the fabric gently and turn the corner.5. Re-align the edge of the fabric, having cut edge of the fabric against the cutter on the

right and up to the needles in back.6. Pull up slack in threads at top by cones.7. Lower presser foot.8. Serge along next edge.9. Repeat for remaining corners.

To finish fourth corner, chain off end and thread 2”-3” chain tail through large eyedneedle. Slide needle with thread tail up under stitching to conceal end and to secure end.

28

INSIDE CORNERS

Practice the inside corner technique for perfect finishes for Christmas stockings, ovenmits or kick pleats on skirts.


Fabric Type:Woven Medium(Cut a square out of one corner)



_________


Serge:1. Align the edge along inside edge of cutter, with bulk of fabric to the left.2. Serge, stopping 1/2 from the inside corner. Tap foot control to lower needles into

fabric.NOTE: Your cutter is 1/2” in front of the needles, so you must fold fabric away fromthe cutter before reaching the corner to prevent cutting into corner.

3. Pull fabric into a straight line with remaining edge against inside edge of the cutter.There will be some tucks in the edge. These should lay flat after stitching.

4. Continue to serge along the edge.

Sleeve Placket:1. Cut a 2 1/2” slit in a second piece of fabric.2. Cut a strip of fabric 1” x 5”.3. Fold strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.4. Lay strip on slit with right sides together.5. Using inside corner technique, stitch strip to opening forming a placket.

29

CORDED OVERLOCK

The Specialty Technique Guide for cording allows you to use decorative cording orfishline easily without having to hold cord while serging. Thread cord through the ioopat the extreme left of the thread stand, through the guide on the left of the machine andthrough the hole in the presser foot.

The Specialty Technique guide allows cord tofeed freely through the foot then covered bythe overlock stitch. Ribbon or cording canbe used to stabilize where stress occurs;joining shoulder seams, sleeves, side seams, etc.You can also use it for a decorative look inareas which are visible. Use filler cord, perlecotton, twill tape, gimp cord, wool yarn. Elasticthread, fishline, ribbon, etc.

Machine Setting:3 or 4 thread OverlockAccessory Type: S

Fabric Type:Knit MediumSweatshirt Fleece & 1/8” — 3/16” Ribbon


Left Needle (Yellow) -N-Right Needle (Red) -N-Upper Looper (Green) -N-Lower Looper (Blue) -N-

Serge:1. Feed ribbon through guides and front hole on foot. Slide ribbon under foot to

needles.2. Fold fabric in half with stretch along edge to be sewn.3. Serge with four thread seam to stabilize seam.4. Serge with three thread seam for decorative look.5. Use the back hole in presser foot for cording, fishline, etc.

30

RIBBING

Your Huskylock will finish, trim and allow the fabric to stretch while retaining its originalshape.


Fabric Type:Knit Medium(Sweatshirt Fleece and Ribbing


Left Needle (Yellow) -N-Right Needle (Red) -N-Upper Looper (Green) -N-Lower Looper iue) -N-

Serge:1. Cut a curved neckline in fabric.2. Fold ribbing in half lengthwise.3. Place ribbing on neckline with cut edges even.4. Serge, stretching ribbing to meet neck edge.5. When attaching ribbing in a circle, such as a neckline or cuffs, serge around circle

until your stitches overlap one inch. Tap foot control to raise needles, raise thepresser foot and remove garment. Cut threads using the thread cutter. Use the freearm for cuffs and necklines,

31

CASING OR HEM FOLD

Try this easy technique for T-shirt hems, elastic and drawstring waistbands or curtain rodcasings.




Left Needle Yellow -N-

____________

Right Needle (Red) -N-Upper Looper (Green) -N

_________

Lower Looper (Blue) -N

Serge:1. Measure and fold the desired depth for the casing.2. Hold the folded fabric with wrong side facing you.3. Turn the casing underneath so the fabric is in an “5” shape.4. Serge along the fold with the wrong side up, catching both needles into fold of fabric.

32

BLIND HEM

A blind hem is quick and easy with your Huskylock and the Multi-purpose foot.



Tension Settings:Set yotir tensions on normal setting.

Left Needle (Yellow)Right Needle (Red)Upper Looper (Green)Lower Looper (Blue)

Serge:1. Replace standard foot “5” with multi-purpose foot.

Press hem to the required depth (fig. 1). Fold thehem back against the right side of the garment,creating a soft fold on the wrong side of the fabricin the shape of a backward “5”.

2. Place fabric under presser foot with wrong side up.Feed folded edge into the guide in the front of thefoot and lower presser foot. Sew several stitches ona scrap of fabric and adjust the guide so needle justcatches edge of fold. To adjust the guide screw,loosen the screw on top of the foot. Shift the guideto the right or left as needed, and re-tighten the screw

Final hem length

Screw

Final hem length Guide

Fig. 2

Fig, 1

r —‘

I3. When correctly set sew the hem. The outside edge

will be cut away by the Huskylock (fig. 2). With theupper looper tension set on 8; the threads will pull tothe topside to allow the hem to lay flat. After completion, open out and press again.The stitches should be almost invisible on the right side of the fabric (fig. 3).

Hint: When starting a hem in the round, trim a small section of the hem so the fabriccan be inserted totally under the foot and onto the feed teeth.

-N-______-N-______-N-______

33

SECTION IV

AUTOMATIC, SELF-ADJUSTING DIFFERENTIAL FEED

Differential feed allows you to sew many different types of fabrics, eliminating puckeringon lightweight woven fabrics and stretching on knits.

When using a serger without differential feed, puckering and wavering are unavoidableon some fabrics. Your Huskylock automatically adjusts the differential feed for fabricand technique selected in the Sewing Advisor.

our Husky lock has two sets of feed teeth. Each set of feed teeth has an individual feedmechanism which enables the feeding of fabric at a different ratio, therefore, feedingmore or less fabric into the back teeth giving the desired result. The differential feedsetting can be changed in the Sewing Advisor. Touch the twice until the differentialfeed setting begins to blink. Touch the “+“ or “-“ buttons to the desired setting. Whenyou begin to sew, the machine will automatically change the setting. There will be aslight pause while the change is being made.

1NNN 1

Fabric Differentil feed “1.0” Seing Result

Stretch Knit1 0-2 5material Jersey

Normal INon-stretch thick1 0material woven

Very thin Silk-silkymaterial knitwear 0. 0.

34

SERGING LIGHTWEIGHT FABRICSNegative Differential Feed

Some lightweight fabrics may pucker when serged. This can be prevented by using anegative differential feed setting of 0.5 - 0.9. Negative differential feed means the frontfeed teeth feed the fabric slower than the back feed teeth to hold the fabric taut andprevent puckering. Your Huskylock will automatically adjust the differential feed forlightweight fabrics when you select woven or knit light. You may wish to adjust thatsetting slightly depending on your fabric. Always test sew a scrap of your fabric. Seepage 34 for overriding the automatic setting.

Machine Setting:4 thread overlockAccessory Type: SDifferential Feed: Change to 1.0, then 0.5

Fabric Type:Woven light



_________

Upper Looper (Green) -N-

_________

Lower Looper (Blue) -N-

Serge:1. Change the differential feed to the normal setting of 1.0. Lower the presser foot.2. Fold fabric in half and serge a seam along one edge. There may be slight puckering.3. Change the differential feed to 0.5.4. Serge along opposite edge. This seam should be pucker-free thanks to your

differential feed.

35

SERGING STRETCH OR BULKY KNITSPositive Differential Feed

When serging stretch knits such as ribbing or bulky sweater knits, the seams tend to bewavy. This can be corrected by using the positive differential feed settings of 1.1 - 2.5.Positive differential feed means the front feed teeth feed faster than the rear feed teeth.This prevents knit fabrics from stretching while serging.

Machine Setting:4 thread OverlockAccessory Type: SDifferential feed: 1.0— then change to 2.5

Fabric Type:Knit heavy(Rib knit)


Left Needle (Yellow)Right Needle (Red) -N-Upper Looper (Green) -N-

____________


Serge:1. Change differential feed to 1.0 (see page 34 to override automatic setting.2. Serge a seam along one edge, sewing with the stretch of the fabric. Your seam will

look stretched and wavy.3. Change differential feed to 2.5. Serge opposite edge of your sample. This seam will

lay flat.

Note: You have a wide range of settings from the 1.0 setting to the 2.5 setting whichenables you to serge a variety of fabric weights and types with perfect results.

36

GATHERING

You will never want to gather again with cording that breaks and bobbins that run out ofthread. Save time by gathering riffles and skirts to bodices by using the differential feedon your Huskylock.

Machine Setting:4 thread OverlockAccessory Type: SStitch Length: Override Sewing Advisor to 5.0 (see page 24)Differential Feed: Override Differential Feed to 2.5 (see page 34)


Tension Settings:Left Needle (Yellow)Right Needle (Red) -N-Upper Looper (Green) -N-

_________


Serge:1. Place fabric under presser foot and serge one inch.2. Place the forefinger of your left hand behind the foot and apply a small amount of

pressure to the fabric as it emerges from under the presser foot.3. After the length of fabric has been gathered, stop serging. Tap the foot control to

raise the needles, then raise the presser foot and remove your fabric. Leave about a1O”-12” thread tail as you may wish to adjust your gathers. Adjust gathers by pullingneedle threads (the two straight threads — not the loops)

4. Be sure to put needle tensions back on “N” to prevent breaking the needle threads ifserging off the edge of the fabric.

Hint: Increasing the presser foot pressure to 5 will also help gather more, as morepressure is applied to the fabric by the foot while it sews.

Variation: Try using this technique on lace to make lace rosettes.

37

SECTION V

3-THREAD SEWING TECHNIQUES

Use a three-thread seam for maximum stretch on knits or for an edge finish for seamsyou prefer to seam with a straight stitch on a sewing machine, then press open. Thethree-thread edge finish prevents raveling of your fabrics allowing your seam to lay flat.

THREE-THREAD SEAM OR EDGE FINISH

Three-thread Huskylock techniques allow a single seam and lighter edge finish formedium to light weight fabrics. Using your left needle will give you a wider stitch widthfor medium weight fabrics. Using the right needle will give you a narrow stitch widthseam for lightweight fabrics.

Machine Setting:3 thread Wide OverlockAccessory Type: S

Fabric Type:Woven medium

Tension Settings:Left Needle (Yellow)Right Needle (Red)Upper Looper (Green) -N-Lower Looper (Blue)

Serge:1. Fold fabric in half.2. Serge a wide three-thread seam.

For 3 thread narrow overlock stitch, use right needle only (page 54).

-N-______Removed

-N-______

38

SAFELOCK

This technique is excellent for reversible garments because it produces finished seams on

both sides. It also works great on seams where durability is needed. The straight

stitching to complete this technique does require a sewing machine.

Machine Setting:3 thread Wide OverlockAccessory Type: SStitch Width: 6-7mmUse Left Needle “C” only

Fabric Type:Knit medium (sweatshirt fleece)

Tension Settings:Left Needle (Yellow) -3-

___________

Right Needle (Red) RemovedUpper Looper (Green) -3-

_________


Serge:1. Fold fabric in half with wrong sides together.2. Serge seam along folded edge.3. Press the seam to one side and stitch flat using a straight stitch on your Husqvarna

Viking sewing machine.4. Try using decorative threads in your upper or lower looper for a decorative look.

Opliona/. Save safelock technique settings in one of 50 of your personal memories (see

page 13).

39

DECORATIVE EDGES

Your Huskylock has practically unlimited decorative possibilities using different threads

for binding, edging, tucks, etc. Experiment with regular sewing threads, embroidery

floss, metallic, topstitching threads, perle cotton, fine yarns, threads, etc. Use decorative

threads in the upper looper and/or lower looper.

Machine Setting:3 thread Wide OverlockAccessory Type: SStitch Length: 2.5-5 (see page 24 to override)

Stitch Width: 6-7 mmThread: Regular cone thread — lower looper and left needle

Decorative thread of choice — upper looper

Use Left Needle “C” only

Fabric Type:Woven heavy (denim)

Tension Settings:Left Needle (Yellow) -N-

_________

Right Needle (Red) RemovedUpper Looper (Green) - 1-3-

_________


Note: When working with heavier decorative threads, you may find you need to loosen

your upper looper tension. When working with finer threads, you may need to tighten it.

The general rule is as follows: the heavier the thread, the lower the tension and

the longer the stitch length.

Serge:1. Thread decorative or specialty thread through upper looper.

2. Stitch around denim square until the stitches meet.3. Use one of the finishing techniques on page 27.4. Save special decorative edge technique settings in memory for future use (see page

13).5. Attach sample to opposite page for reference.

Note: When using a mixture of threads, such as regular cone thread combined with heavy

decorative threads, it may be necessary to make tension adjustments. Be sure to test your

stitch on a scrap of the same material before sewing your project.

Optional: For a reversible decorative look, thread decorative threads in upper and lower

looper.

40

DECORATIVE BRAIDS

Decorative braid can be made by serging over a narrow ribbon, braid or cording. Use

three of the same color threads, or mix them for variety. Embroidery floss,

candlewicking and topstitching thread will give you a full-looking braid.

Machine Setting:

3 Thread Wide Overlock

Accessory Type: S

Stitch Length: 2.5-5

Stitch Width: 7

Thread: Decorative in upper looper

Fabric Type:

Woven Medium

Tension Settings:

Left Needle (Yellow) -N-

__________

Right Needle (Red) Removed

Upper Looper (Green) -1-4-

Lower Looper (Blue)

Note: The upper and lower looper tensions will need to be lowered slightly to

accommodate the decorative threads.

Serge:1. Use one or two needles as desired. If you use both needles, the right needle will

stitch through the braid or ribbon and keep it from shifting. Under most

circumstances, use the left needle only.

2. Use the edge of the needle plate as a guide. Do not cut the braid or ribbon you

are sewing over. Hint: Use the Optional Elastic/Taping foot to guide the braid

or ribbon perfectly without cutting (see page 68 for directions).

3. Feed braid under the presser foot and sew. You will encase the braid or ribbon in

the stitching.

4. Finished braid can be sewn to other garments as a single braid, or entwined with

other braids to create a decorative trim.

41

3 THREAD FLATLOCK/LADDER STITCH & SEAMS

This technique uses three threads to serge a ladder or treliis stitch used for

topstitching or as a decorative stitch on one side of the fabric and a flatlock seam on

the other. It can be used on knits, tricot, even fake furs and soft leather to serge

decoratively and eliminate bulk.

Machine Setting:3 Thread FladockAccessory Type: SAccessory Foot: Multi-Purpose

Fabric Type:Knit Medium or woven heavy(sweatshirt fleece or denim)

Tension Settings:

Left Needle (Yellow)Right Needle (Red)Upper Looper (Green)Lower Looper (Blue)

Note: If the ladder stitch is desired on the right side ofthe garment, fold fabric in half with right sides together.If flatlock stitch is desired on the right side, foldfabric in half with wrong sides together.

Serge:1. Place fold of fabric along left edge of Multi-Purpose

guide. This foot will prevent cutting your fabric.2. Sew along the edge of the folded fabric.

For best results, allow stitches to “loop”slightly off the edge.

3. Open fabric up and gently pull apart toreveal ladder stitch.

4. Adjust tensions as needed for a flat stitch.5. Try a rayon thread in the needle for a

decorative ladder stitch or in your upperlooper for the fladock.

-0-1-

_________

Removed-2-5-

__________

-6-8-

___________

Ladder stitch

42

3 THREAD FLATLOCK TECHNIQUELACE APPLICATION

Using the flatlock stitch, apply lace to lingerie the same as in the commercial industryin better ready-to-wear.

Machine Setting:3 Thread flatlockAccessory Type: SAccessory Foot: Multi-Purpose

Fabric Type:Knit Light (tricotEdging lace

Tension Settings:

Left Needle (Yellow) -1-

_________

Right Needle (Red) RemovedUpper Looper (Green) -3-

__________

Lower Looper (Blue) -7-

__________

Note: For wider seams, use left needle only. For narrower seams, used on very finefabrics and laces, use right needle only.

Serge:1. Place lace on top of tricot near edge with right sides together.2. Align lace edge along guide on Multi-Purpose foot (see page 42).3. Serge lace to tricot.4. Open lace and tricot, gently pulling apart to reveal ladder stitch.

Him’: If tricot is rolled under within seam, gently hold tricot in one hand and lace inother hand and wiggle back and forth, one side going away from you while the otherside is coming toward you. This will allow fabric to lay flat within the seam.

43

3 THREAD FLATLOCK TECHNIQUELINGERIE ELASTIC APPLICATION

Using the flatlock method to apply lingerie elastic allows the elastic to lay flat withoutcurling, as in better ready-to-wear.

Machine Setting:3 Thread FlatlockAccessory Type: SAccessory Foot: Multi-PurposeStitch length: 5.0 (override Sewing Advisor — see page 24)Note: The stitch length is increased because the fewer stitches sewn into elastic, themore elasticity it will have, allowing the elastic to return to its normal size.

Fabric Type:Knit Light (tricot)3/8” lingerie elastic

Tension Settings:

Left Needle (Yellow) -0-1-

_________

Right Needle (Red) RemovedUpper Looper (Green) -2-4-

_________

Lower Looper (Blue) -6-8-

Serge:1. With right sides together, lay edge of elastic (picot edge to left) along cut edge of

sample.2. Align fabric with Multi-Purpose foot guide.3. Serge, stretching elastic as you sew.4. Pull elastic and tricot open to reveal ladder stitch.

For an easy elastic application, use the Optional Elastic Foot (see page 68).

44

3 THREAD FLATLOCK TECHNIQUEFRINGE

Make this a quick and easy finish for a wool scarf or table runner.

Machine Setting:3 Thread FlatlockAccessory Type: SAccessory Foot: Multi-PurposeThread: regular cone thread or decorative

Fabric Type:Woven medium (Loosely woven scarf weight fabric)

Tension Settings:


___________


_________


Serge:1. Use a water-soluble pen to mark the edge or hemline. Cut away excess fabric.

Try to cut on the straight of grain for easy, even fringing.2. Mark an additional line 1 ½” from the edge or hemline. Fold along this line and

press lightly with wrong sides together.3. Align fabric with Multi-Purpose foot guide and serge along the fold, without

cutting the fabric.4. Work thread tail into stitching using a large eyed hand sewing needle.5. Pull fabric open.6. Starting at the raw edge, pull Out all of the horizontal threads, one at a time, up to

the serged line to create fringe.

45

3 THREAD ROLLED EDGE

A rolled edge is normally used on soft fabrics, such as crepe de chine, georgette, silkand other lightweight materials. This technique cuts, folds and overlocks the edge togive a fine 1.5mm rolled edge.

Machine Setting: (thread narrow edge3 Thread Rolled EdgeAccessory Type: SStitch Finger: Position “R”Thread: regular cone thread


Tension Settings:

__________

Left Needle (Yellow) RemovedRight Needle (Red) -3-

_________

Upper Looper (Green) -N-Lower Looper (Blue) -6-

_________

Serge:1. Sew along a single edge of lightweight woven fabric to create a beautiful rolled

edge.

Hint: If the top thread does not meet the needle thread on the under side, you needto tighten the lower looper tension slightly.If you have ioops on the top side of your fabric, or along the edge, you will need totighten the upper looper tension slightly.Always test sew the stitch on a scrap of fabric first, make any needed adjustments,then begin sewing your project.

Optional: Try using Wooly Nylon or Sulky® rayon thread in the upper looper for abeautiful finish. You may need to reduce the upper looper tension slightly. Savethese settings in one of your personal memories (see page 13).

‘S

46

PICOT EDGE

This edge is perfect for chiffon, fine silk or other lightweight fabrics. It creates a

designer finish for a scarf or bridal veil.

Machine Setting:3 Thread Rolled EdgeAccessory Type: SStitch Length: Override Sewing Advisor to 4.0-5.0 (see page 24 to override)Thread: regular cone thread, rayon, metaffic, or Wooly Nylon

Fabric Type:Woven Light

Tension Settings:

Left Needle (Yellow) RemovedRight Needle (Red) -3-Upper Looper (Green)Lower Looper (Blue) -6-7-

__________

Serge:1. Serge picot edge along single edge of lightweight woven fabric.2. The longer stitch length will create a picot or shell edge.

Hint: For a decorative effect, tr using lightweight novelty threads in the rolled edgeor picot edge. The upper looper tension may need to be reduced depending on thefabric type and decorative thread used. Remember to experiment on a scrap of fabricfirst for the best results.

Optional: Save picot edge specialty settings in one of the personal memories (page13). ::zzzzEzz:

47

SPAGHETTI STRAPS

Use this technique for narrow spaghetti straps, braided or twisted belts, belt loops,

hangers for quilted wall hangings, etc.

Machine Setting:3 Thread Rolled EdgeAccessory Type: S


Tension Settings:


_________

Upper Looper (Green) -5-Lower Looper (Blue)

Serge:1. Cut the spaghetti strap one inch wider than the desired width.2. Serge a thread chain as long as the desired strap plus 5 inches.3. Fold the spaghetti strap around the thread chain as if the chain were a hot dog in

a bun.4. Serge along the open side seam trimming away ‘/2” of fabric.5. Gently pull the chain to turn the strap right side out.

Hint: If making many shorter pieces, such as belt loops, make one long tube, turnright side out, then cut apart.

48

SLIT OR PLACKET

This technique can be used when sewing the plackets for the neckline of a blouse orfor a cuff placket. It is similar to the inside corner technique (page 29), except using arolled edge.


Fabric Type:Woven medium or light

Tension Settings:


_________

Upper Looper (Green) -N-5-

_______


_________

Serge:I. Cut a slit 3/4 of the way into the fabric.2. Open the slit so the inside edges of the slit form

a straight line. Note: There will be two small tucks at the bottom of the slit when itis pulled open.

3. Using the inside edge of the cutter as a guide, serge along the edge using the rollededge.

Hint: When you get to the middle of the slit (bottom of placket) you will find thefabric wants to form a “V” shape away from the cutter. Using your left hand, simplyencourage the fabric to remain straight while serging.

49

3 THREAT) ROLLED EDGEFISHLINE RUFFLES OR WIRE EDGES

The Specialty Technique Guide on your Huskylock makes it a snap to enhance anygarment with ruffles, or to make a formal gown have a little more body around thebottom edge by rolling fishline into the rolled edge. Depending on the gauge of thefishuine, von can create ruffles which stand on their own (601b.), or just enough bodyto allow the fabric to curve gracefully away from the body (141b.).Add 22-28 gauge floral wire to the edge of ribbon or fabric strips to create your ownwire ribbon, forming bows for crafts or home dec. projects.


Fabric Type:For fishline: Woven light and fIshlineFor wire edges: Woven Medium and wire

Tension Settings:

_________________________


_________

Upper Looper (Green) -3-5-

________


Serge:1. raise the presser foot and guide the fishline or wire through the Specialty

Technique guides (see page 30), then through the back hole in the presser footQllus. 2).

2. Feed fishline or wire under foot and past needles.3. Stitch 2”-3” to catch the fishline or wire in the thread tail.4. Insert the fabric under the presser foot and lower needle into the fabric. Lower

the presser foot and sew along the edge of the fabric.5. Raise presser foot and remove project. Clip thread tail and flshline or wire.

Thit: On a garment, pull slightly along the fishline or wire after sewing, to create amore ruffled effect.

Note: If using narrow braid or heavier cord, use front hole in foot (illus. 1) and setthe Sewing Advisor for Three Thread Narrow. Follow the recommended settings.

I

50

ROLLED EDGE “POKIES”

When serging a rolled edge of lace or stiff fabric (linen and some cotton), the fabricthreads may poke berween the stitches on the rolled edge. Try rolling over a watersoluble stabilizer such as America Sews Dissolve-Away for a smoother finish. Cutthe transparent stabilizer into 1” wide strips with your rotary cutter and mat.

Machine Setting3 thread rolled edgeAccessory Type: S

FabricWoven medium (linen)

Tension SettingsLeft Needle (Yellow) RemovedRight Needle (Red) -3-

_________

Upper Looper (Green)Lower Looper (Blue) -6-

____________

Serge1. Position Dissolve-Away on top of the fabric to be rolled.2. Roll the Dissolve-Away and fabric together through the Huskylock, trimming

away 1/4” While serging.3. Carefully tear away excess Dissolve-Away from rolled edge. Spray with water to

remove any remaining Dissolve-Away.

Hint. If you live in a very humid climate, try using America Sews Melt-Away. It isheavier than the Dissolve-Away and does not go limp with the humidity. Afterserging the edge, carefully tear away excess Melt-Away, then using a warm iron, meltany remainder which is showing.

Hint: Another good way to handle pokies on some fabrics is to turn under one edge½” and roll along- the folded edge, being careful not to cut the fold of fabric. Trimaway excess fabric with scissors when completed. Use Multi-Purpose foot for this(see page 33).

Hint. Using a wider stitch width will also help prevent pokies, as more fabric is rolledinto the edge eliminating the stiff edge.

51

3 THREAD ROLLED EDGENOVELTY THREADS

For a decorative effect, try using novelty threads in the rolled edge. This includesWooly nylon, metallic, silk, rayon thread, Perle cotton, 2-piy baby yarn, YLI JeansStitch®, etc. Remember to experiment first for the correct tension setting and stitchlength.

Machine Setting3 thread rolled edgeAccessory Type: SThread: Decorative

Wooly Nylon (use in the upper looper)Hint: Use a needle threader to thread the wooly nylon through the eye of the looper.

Tension SettingsLeft Needle (Yellow) -3-5--

___________


__________


Metallic Thread (Use in the upper looper)Tension Settings


___________


__________


Silk or rayon thread in Upper Looper.Tension Settings

Left Needle (Yellow RemovedRight Needle (Red) -3-5-Upper Looper (Green) -2-5-Lower Looper (Blue) -6-8-

Hint. You may wish to use a thread net to prevent the thread from slipping off theSpool. Remember, the heavier the thread, the lower the tension needs to be.

Optional: Save specialty technique settings in memory (see page 13).

52

PINTUCKS

Pintucks are beautiful additions to blouses or heirloom garments. Pintucks aredesigned to be sewn on lightweight fabrics in multiple rows to create an heirloomlook.

Machine Setting3 thread rolled edgeAccessory Type: S

FabricWoven light

Tension SettingsLeft Needle (Yellow) RemovedRight Needle (Red) -3-

_________

Upper Looper (Green)Lower Looper (Blue) -6-

___________

Serge1. Mark a series of pintuck lines approximately 1” apart on fabric.2. Fold fabric along pintuck lines with wrong sides together.3. Using right edge of foot as a guide, stitch along fold. Do not cut fabric edge.

Him’. Use your Multipurpose foot to prevent cutting the edge of the folded fabricwhile serging.

Try using decorative threads, such as Sulky® rayon in the upper looper for a beautifulsheen to the pintuck.

2-thread converter

53

3 THREAD NARROW EDGE/SHELL EDGE

Overlocking the fabric with a finish about 2mm in width forms a narrow edge. Thistechnique is used on lightweight or soft fabrics such as crepe de chin, silk, lightweightpolyesters, etc. A shell edge can be sewn on scarf-like fabrics by tightening the lowerlooper tension. Due to the nature of these hems, they are unsuitable for use on stiffor heavy fabrics.

Machine Setting3 thread narrow edgeAccessory Type: SStitch Finger: N for Narrow Edge

R for Shell edge

FabricSilky Woven

Tension SettingsLeft Needle (Yellow) RemovedRight Needle (Red) -N-

_________

Upper Looper (Green) -6-Lower Looper (Blue) -N-

SergeSerge along edge of fabric.1. If using different types of thread, be sure to test on a scrap of fabric to adjust the

tension and stitch length before sewing actual garment.

Note: For shell edge, lengthen stitch length to 5 and serge along edge. (See page 24 tooverride Sewing Advisor for longer length.)

54

SECTION VI

2 THREAD SEWING TECHNIQUES

Two thread Huskylock techniques give you many additional

flatlock, a light overcast and rolled edge.

Machine Setting2 thread wide or narrow overlockAccessory Type: SSnap down two-thread converter

Threading for Two Thread Sewing

1. Turn handwheel to bring upper looper tohighest position.

2. Engage Converter: lower left end of converterlever on upper looper (as illustrated) placing theprong on the left end into the upper looper eye.

3. Thread left needle for wide two thread overcastor flatlock. Thread right needle for a narrow two

thread overcast or rolled edge.

4. Thread lower looper only.

To disengage two-thread converter, gently push theprong out of the eye in upper looper and raise.

Note: Some models may have removable 2-thread converter.Slide on and engage as shown below.

L1

sewing options, such as

4

61.--

4

-

‘%.-

55

TWO THREAD WIDE OR NARROW OVERLOCK

The two-thread overlock stitch gives a lightweight finish when less thread build-up is

desired.

Machine SettingTwo thread wide or narrow overlockAccessory Type: SEngage two-thread converter (see page 55)Use left rear needle for Wide overlockUse right rear needle for Narrow overlock

FabricWoven light

Tension SettingsLeft Needle (Yellow) -0-1-

__________

OR Right Needle (Red) -0-1-

_________

Upper Looper (Green) Not usedLower Looper (Blue) -6-7-

_________

Serge1. Place fabric under the foot with the edge against the cutter.2. Serge along the edge to finish.3. The seam should be balanced along edge of fabric.

Note: In a two thread serged edge, the lower looper lies on top of the fabric and theneedle thread lies on the under side. To balance, if top thread is wrapped around tounder side, tighten lower looper tension or loosen needle tension. If thread on underside is wrapped around to top side, loosen lower looper tension or tighten needlethread tension.

56

TWO THREAD FLATLOCK

Serge a two thread flatlock for decorative embellishments along a fold. Stitch, thenpull the fold flat for a row of serging which resembles braided embellishment.

Machine Setting2 thread wide overlockAccessory Type: SEngage two-thread converter (see page 55)

FabricKnit medium(Sweatshirt fleece)

Tension SettingsLeft Needle (Yellow) -0-1-

___________

Right Needle (Red) RemovedUpper Looper (Green) Not usedLower Looper (Blue) -5-7-

Serge1. Snap on all-purpose foot.2. Place fold of fabric to the right, next to guide of all-purpose foot,3. Stitch along the fold of the fabric with the left needle catching the fold of the

fabric and looping off the edge as you sew. The needle thread and lower looperthread should form a balanced tension along the edge. If the thread pulls to theunderside, tighten your Lower Looper. If the thread pulls to the top side, loosenthe lower looper.

4. Pull open and flat.5. Adjust guide of presser foot for perfect edge.

OptionaL’ Save specialty thread settings in memory (see page 13)

bb

57

TWO THREAD ROLLED EDGE

Use the two-thread rolled edge with lightweight fabrics when you want the lightestrolled edge possible. Perfect for silky scarves.

Machine Setting2 thread rolled edgeAccessory Type: SEngage two-thread converter (see page 55)

FabricWoven light

Tension SettingsLeft Needle (Yellow) RemovedRight Needle (Red) -N-

_________

Upper Looper (Green) Not usedLower Looper (Blue) -5-

__________

Serge1. Place single layer of fabric under the presser foot and serge along the edge.

Him’: Lengthen stitch length as desired for lighter look or picot edge.

58

TWO THREAD NARROW WRAPPED EDGE

Use the two thread narrow edge for a reversible, decorative edge using special

decorative types of thread.

Machine Setting

2 thread narrow overlock

Accessory Type: SStitch Finger: “R” for narrow 2 mm rolled edge

“N” for wider 4mm flat edge.

Engage two-thread converter (see page 55)

FabricWoven medium

Tension SettingsLeft Needle (Yellow) -3-

_______

Right Needle (Red) Removed

Upper Looper (Green) Not used


SergePlace single layer of fabric under the presser foot and serge along the edge.

The decorative stitches should wrap around to the under side of fabric, giving an

even decorative look on both top and bottom of fabric.

OptionaL Use Sulky® rayon thread, YLI® Perle Crown rayon, YLI® Jean Stitch or a

metallic thread for a beautiful decorative edge.

For a balanced narrow two thread edge, set tensions as follows:

Left Needle (Yellow Removed

Right Needle (Red) -2-

_________

Upper Looper (Green) Not used


___________

Hint Tensions will need to be adjusted slightly, depending on decorative thread used.

59

5 THREAD OVERLOCK

The five thread overlock stitch consists of a chain stitch seam and 3 thread overlockstitch, a standard finish in readyto-wear. It is used for seams, especially in areasneeding reinforcement, such as pant and underarm seams. This stitch is also ideal forloose weave hand woven fabrics to stabilize the seam and fabric, yet provide a wideoverlock stitch to prevent raveling.

Machine Setting5 thread overlockAccessory Type: S

FabricWoven mediumWoven heavy (denim)

Tension SettingsLeft Front Needle (Yellow -N-_________Left Rear Needle (Red) -5-

___________

Upper Looper (Green) -3-

_________

Lower Looper (Blue) -N-____________Chain Looper (Purple) -N-_________

Serge1. Fold a piece of woven medium fabric in half and

serge along folded edge, cutting fabric as you go.2. Change Sewing Advisor to heavy woven and change

the tension settings. Fold denim in half and serge aseam along folded edge.

3. The chain stitch locks and stabilizes the seam like asewing machine seam, not allowing the fabric to stretch.

Hints:1. Use where you want to stabilize a seam.2. Do not use where you need stretch, as in a T-shirt

neckline.—

C D A B

60

SECTION VII

The following section will take you through all of the techniques using AccessoryType “C”. The chainstitch and coverstitch techniques do not use the cutter or upperlooper. Follow the following steps to convert your Huskylock from an overlockscrger to a coverstitch serger:

1. Remove any threads from Huskylock.

2. Tap foot control to lower needles, then open front cover.Note: You will find it easier to convert and thread for coverstitch with the needlesin the down position the entire time, until you thread the needles.

3. Push down and slide cover select lever from “S” to “C” to lock down upperlooper.

4. Slide “5” standard cutter to left, then forward to remove. You will find it easierto thread with this area open.

5. Remove flatbed cover and free arm. Lower cutter (see page 6).

6. Remove rear needles “C” and “D”.

7. Slide stitch finger to “R” and turn cutting width dial to 7.

8. Remove presser foot and stitch plate “S”. Replace them with stitch plate andpresser foot “C”.

9. Using needle inserter, insert Schmetz® universal size 90 needles in front leftneedle position “A” and front right needle position “E”.

10. Slide on free arm cover and flatbed cover.

11. Thread coverstitch looper (blue/peach), then right front needle (green) and leftfront needle (red). Raise needles to thread.

12. Attach cutter cover “C”.

13. Set tensions according to Sewing Advisor

61

COVERSTITCH WIDE

The 6mm coverstitch is the industry standard in ready-to-wear for hemming. Eitherside of this stitch can be used as the right side. Quite often you will see the ioop sideof the stitch as the right side in ready-to-wear, being used as a decorative feature.The coverstitch works well for active wear and knits because of the elasticity of thestitch. Hemming, topstitching, decorative stitching and other finishes can be donenicely with the cover hem. Try decorative threads in the coverstitch looper for adecorative hem finish.

Machine SettingCoverstitch wideAccessory Type: CSee set up page 61

Fabric TypeKnit medium (sweatshirt fleece)

Tension SettingsLeft Front Needle A (Red)Right Front Needle E (Green)Coverstitch Looper (Blue/Peach)

Serge1. Fold up a 2” hem on sweatshirt fleece. Place fabric

under the presser foot to needles with folded edgeto right.

2. Left needle should sew along raw edge of hem(on underside).

3. Sew cover hem. The right side will be thecoverstitch and the under side the coverlock.

Hint: Use the optional transparent coverstitch footfor better visibility (page 71). Or, try using the optionalhemming foot which will guide your hem perfectly(page 76). (

C D A B

-7--3-

J

62

COVERSTITCH NARROW

The narrow 3mm coverstitch is ideal for lightweight knits such as jersey knits,swimwear, and lingerie fabric. It sews just like the 6mm coverstitch, with thecoverstitch on the right side and the coverlock on the wrong side. Try usingdecorative threads in the coverstitch looper for a decorative hem finish orembellishment.

Machine SettingCoverstitch narrowAccessory Type: CSee set up page 61

Fabric TypeKnit light (jersey knit or lycra)

Tension SettingsCenter Front Needle B (Red) -6-Right Front Needle F (Green)Coverstitch Looper (Blue/Peach)

Serge1. Fold up 1 ¼” hem on knit fabric. Place fabric

under foot to needles with folded edge to right.2. Left needle should sew along raw edge of hem

(on underside).3. Sew cover hem. The right side will be the

coverstitch and the wrong side the coverlock.

Hint. Wooly nylon in the needles and cover looperwill increase the elasticity and strength of thecoverstitch. Ideal for swirn\vear.

Hint: Use the oponal transparent coverstitch footfor better visibility (page 71). Or, try using the optionalhemming foot which will guide your hem perfectly(page 76).

C D A B

-6--3-

j63

TRIPLE COVERSTITCH

The triple or tri-coverstitch is used for decorative hemming on t-shirts in ready-to-wear. Also used by designers for elastic waistband application on skirts. Use thecoverstitch or coverlock side as the right side. Try decorative threads in thecoverstitch looper for embellishment.

Machine SettingTriple CoverstitchAccessory Type: CSee set up page 61

Fabñc TypeKnit medium (sweatshirt fleece)

Tension SettingsLeft Front Needle A (Yellow)Center Front Needle B (Red)Right Front Needle E (Green)Coverstitch Looper (Blue/Peach)

Serge1. Fold up 2” hem on sweatshirt fleece. Place fabric

under foot to needles with folded edge to right.2. Left needle should sew along raw hem edge of

underside.3. Sew cover hem. The right side will be the cover

stitch and the wrong side the coverlock.

Hint. Use the optional transparent coversutch foot forbetter visibility. (see page 71). Or try the optionalhemming foot which will guide your hem perfectly(page 76). ‘

C D A B

-6-

64

2 THREAD DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH

The two thread double chain stitch sews a straight chain stitch that can be used toseam garments or for decorative embellishment. This stitch is often used for fittingbecause it can be removed easily, like a basting stitch.

Machine SettingChains titchAccessory Type: (2See set up page 61

Fabric TypeWoven medium‘Qovcn heavy (denim)

Tension SettingsLeft Front Needle A (Yellow -5

____________

Chain Looper (Purple/Peach) N

___________

Serge1. Fold a piece of medium weight woven fabric

in half and sew a chain stitch down the centerof the fabric. \ou will see a straight stitch Ofl

the top side and a double chain stitch on theunder side.

2. Place a single layer of denim under the foot withthe wrong side up. Sew, creating a circular patternor rows of stitching.

Hi,it: Use decorative threads, such as YLI® Jean Stitchor Pearl Crown Rayon in the looper for a heavierdecorative look.

C D A B

DouNe chain stitch

65

CONVERSION FROM COVERSTITCHTO REGULAR SERGING

When you are finished with coverstitch or chainstitch techniques, follow the steps toconvert back to regular serging, Type “S”. This includes 5 thread, 4 thread, 3 thread,and two thread overlock techniques.

1. Remove all threads.

2. Open front cover and remove “C” cutter cover by sliding toward left then puffingforward to remove. Replace with standard cutter cover “S”.

3. Using handwheel, raise needles to highest position. Remove presser foot C andfront needles.

4. Remove flatbed cover and freearm.

5. Remove needle plate “C” and replace with needle plate “5”.

6. Raise cutter to full upright position.

7. Slide cover lever from “C” position to “5” position to release upper looper.

_________H

8. Snap on standard foot “S”.

9. Slide on freearm and flatbed cover.

10. Use Sewing Advisor to set up for desired technique settings: cutting width, stitchfinger position, needle positions, tensions and threading.

66

SECTION VIII- OPTIONAL ACCESSORY FEET

PIPING/CORDING FOOTPart #141 000569 5.5mmPart #141 000597 3.0mm

Your Huskylock has two optional piping feet. A 3mm for standard piping and awider 5.5mm foot for larger decorator piping. Both feet have a groove on theunderside of the foot for the piping to lay. The sewing technique is the same forboth. The piping/cording foot speeds the making of piping and the insertion process.

Machine Setting4 thread overlockAccessory Type: SAccessory Foot: either Optional Piping Foot

Fabric TypeWoven mediumPiping

Tension SettingsLeft Needle (Yellow) -N-

____________

Right Needle (Red) -N-Upper Looper (Green) -N-

_________

Lower Looper (Blue)

Serge1. Snap on optional piping foot.2. Cut square of fabric in half and sandwich piping between the two pieces of fabric

(fabric right sides together).3. Insert fabric pieces under the foot so the piping lays in the groove under the foot.4. Serge piping into the seam.

I

Purchase the optional piping feet from your local Husqvarna Viking dealer.

67

ELASTIC/TAPING FOOTPart #141 000595

The optional elastic foot will guide 1/4” to 3/8” elastic while stretching and attaching.The tension control screw allows infinite settings for desired amount of stretch. Thisfoot works great for lingerie and can be used for taping seams with twill tape ornarrow ribbon.

—

Machine Setting:4 thread OverlockAccessory Type: SAccessory Foot: Optional Elastic FootStitch Length: Override to 5.0 (see page 24)

Tension Settings:Left Needle (Yellow)Right Needle (Red)Upper Looper (Green)Lower Looper (Blue)

Serge:1.2.

Snap on optional elastic foot.Loosen tension control screw on the elasticfoot to open front of foot. Insert elastic intoslot and under the foot, until it reaches needles.

3. Sew the elastic for one inch or more to be sureelastic is being caught. Tighten tension controlscrew to stretch elastic.

4. Insert the fabric under the foot and sew togetherwith the elastic. Adjust tension control screw asneeded for desired stretch.Right (clockwise) = tighter (more stretch)Left (counter clockwise) = looser (less stretch)

(

To use for taping, leave the tension control screw loose to allow the tape to guidethrough slot in foot. Great for stabilizing shoulder seams or guiding ribbon fordecorative techniques.

Purchase the optional elastic/taping foot from your Husqvarna Viking dealer.

Fabric Type:Knit light3/8” elastic

\

-N

______

-N-

68

GATHERING FOOTPart #141 000599

The gathering foot is also known as a shirring foot or separator foot. It is used forjoining two layers of lightweight fabric, gathering one while attaching the other. Itcan also be used to gather a single layer only.

Machine Setting:4 thread Overlock

—

Accessory Type: SAccessory Foot: Optional Gathering FootStitch Length: Override to 5.0 (see page 24)Differential Feed: Override to 2.5 (see page 34)

Fabric Type:Woven Light(Two strips lightweight woven fabric)

Tension Settings:Left Needle (Yellow) -8-

__________________________

Right Needle (Red) -8-

_________

Upper Looper (Green) -N-Lower Looper (Blue) -N-

___________

Serge:1. Snap on optional gathering foot.2. Place the bottom layer of fabric (1) right side

up between the needle plate and gathering foot.Place right edge of fabric against upper cutter.

3. Place the top layer of fabric (2) right side downin the opening of the gathering foot (3).

4. Lower the presser foot and sew, guiding thefabric against fabric guide (4).

5. Allow bottom fabric layer to feed freely formaximum gathering.

________________________

Hint: Increase presser foot pressure for more gathers if desired.

Note: These gathers are completely adjustable by simply sliding the ioops of thread onor off the fabric.

Purchase the optionalgathering foot from your local Husqvarna Viking dealer.

I-

69

PEARL FOOTPart #141 000598

The pearl or beading foot smoothly guides 1/4” pearls (or smaller) through a channelalong the right of the foot to be applied to the edge of garments or craft projects.You may also use this foot to apphi the pearls down the center of the fabric using aflatlock stitch.

Machine Setting:3thread wide overlockAccessory Type: SAccessory Foot: Optional Pearl FootStitch width: 7

Fabric Type:Woven Light1/4” (4 mm) pearls

Tension Settings:Left Needle (Yellow) -N-

_________

Right Needle (Red) RemovedUpper Looper (Green)Lower Looper (Blue) -N-

Serge:1. Snap on optional pearl foot.2. Place pearls in channel on right side of foot.3. Turn handwheel one or two rotations toward you to secure the pearls.4. Slide fabric under foot and sew the pearls along the edge of fabric.

Options:1. Fold under edge of fabric. Slide under foot and up against fabric guide. Sew

along edge of fabric without cutting the fabric.2. Sew down the center of fabric using the flatlock set-up (page 42 or 57).3. Sew along edge with rolled edge settings (page 46 or 58), using left needle.

Sequins:Threaded sequins can be applied using the same settings as the pearl application.

Purchase the optionalpearl foot from your local Husqvama Viking dealer.

Pearl guide

70

TRANSPARENT COVERSTITCH FOOTPart #411 000098

The Optional transparent foot is designed for coverstitch sewing. It allows you to seethe stitch as you sew, making it easier to guide for decorative techniques. Use it

anytime the Sewing Advisor on your Huskylock recommends “Use Accessory TypeC,,.

Note: Increase the presser foot pressure to a higher number when using this foot forbest results.

Purchase the optional transparent coverstitch foot from your local HusqvarnaViking dealer.

71

Cover Stitch Cording

Use the Optional Piping/Cording Foot with Cord Guide to sew 3mm cover stitch

over cording. Perfect for window treatments when a slurred look is desired. Simply

sew over cording or elastic cord then pull from both ends to sbirr.

Machine Setting:Cover Stitch NarrowAccessory Type: C

Fabric Type:Woven MediumCording or elastic cord

Tension Settings:Center front needle B (Red)Right front needle E (Green)Coverstitch looper (Blue/Peach) -3-

Serge:1. Snap on optional piping/cording foot

and cord guide.2. Slide cord through cord guide.

Hint: Using dental floss threader, slide loopthrough tunnel in cord guide. Put end ofcord into ioop and draw back throughtunnel in cord guide, then under foot.

3. Lay fabric on top of cord and sew over thetop of the cord.

Hint: For a decorative, raised seam look, use small cording and stitch randomly onyour garment, or draw lines on your fabric and follow the lines.

Gathering or Shirring:1. To gather or shirr your fabric over the cord, use round elastic cord instead of the

cording.

2, Sew over elastic cord, the same as for cording (above).3. Anchor one end of your cording and pull on the other end to draw up the

gathers.

Purchase the optional Huskylock Coversth’ch Kit, which includes this footfrom your local Husqvarna Viking dealer.

-6--6-

72

Chainstitch Piping

Use the chainstitch on your Huskvlock, along with the Optional Cover Stitch PipingFoot, for quick perfect piping ever time. Whether you create your own piping orpurchase packaged piping, you will enjoy creating designer looks on your garments orhome dec. projects.

Machine Setting:ChainstitchAccessory Ty e: C

__________________________________________

Fabric Type:Woven Medium (two pieces, each 3” x 6”)

\\‘rnn sidePurchased piping

Tension Settings:Use Right front needle E (Yellow) -6-Coverstitch Looper (Purple/Peach) -3-

Serge:1. Snap on Optional Cover Stitch Piping Foot.2. Sandwich piping between two pieces of fabric with raw edges even.3. Slide fabric with piping under foot, being sure piping is under groove of foot.4. Lower presser foot and sew seam.

Hiiit: Hold piping behind foot when beginning to sew to be sure fabric and pipingsew together.

Shirred Piping:To shirr fabric, creating a heavier, decorator look to your fabric, secure one end ofcording and pull other end, shirring fabric over cord. Adjust gathers in shirredpiping, then place between two layers of fabric and sew as above.

Purchase the optional Huskylock Coverstitch Kit, which includes this foot

from your local Husqvarna Viking dealer.

73

Cover Stitch Bias Tape Folder Foot

Use the Optional Cover Stitch Bias Tape Folder Foot to fold and attach all in onequick, easy step. Use this foot to cover seams with bias tape for reversible garmentsor make belt loops for garments or to hang a quilt or walihanging.

Machine Setting:Coverstitch wideAccessory Type: C

Fabric Type:\X7oven MediumI” wide strip of bias cut fabric

Tension Settings:Left front needle A (Red) -6-Right front needle E (Green) -7-Coverstitch Looper (Purple/Peach) -3-

Serge:1. Snap on optional Bias Tape Folder Foot

and insert tape into tape guide.

Hint. Cut end of bias tape into point to makeit easier to insert. Use your tweezers in slot ontop of foot to slide bias tape into folder and upto needles.

2. Lower presser foot and sew on bias tapeonly for an inch or two.

3. For belt ioops, continue to sew strip of biastape, then cut into desired lengths for belt ioops.

4. To sew onto fabric, slide fabric under bias tape, up to needles and sew.

This foot is ideal for covering seams with decorative fabric bias strips to add adesigner touch to a garment or for placemats.

Purchase the optional Huskylock Coverstitch Kit, which includes this footfrom your local Husqvama Viking dealer.

___

-----... -—--

74

Cover Stitch Bias Tape Binding Foot

Use the Optional Cover Stitch Bias Tape Binding Foot to finish edges in one stepwith the Cover Stitch Wide or Chainstitch. Perfect for finishing the edges ofgarments, placemats and other home dec. projects.

Machine Setting:Coverstitch wide or Tn-cover stitchAccessory Type: C

Fabric Type:Woven MediumPackaged extra wide double fold bias tape

Tension Settings:Left front needle A (Red) -6-Right front needle U (Green) —7-Coverstitch Looper (Purple/Peach) -3-

Serge:1. Snap on optional Bias Tape Binding Foot2. Insert the bias tape into tape guide on foot.3. Slide bias tape up to needles.4. Lower presser foot and sew into bias tape

an inch or two to catch the bias tape.5. Raise foot and slide fabric into groove of

foot to the right edge of the foot.6. Lower foot and sew bias tape onto edge of

fabric.

Th

J

Him’: If single stitch is desired instead of 6mm cover stitch, use left or center needlechainstitch, depending on the desired look.

Purchase the optional Huskylock Coverstitch Kit, which includes this footfrom your local Husqvarna Viking dealer.

75

Cover Stitch Hemming Foot

Use the Optional Cover Stitch Hemming Foot for even hems on your garments orhome dcc projects. Simply press your hem allowance then let the foot and yourHuskvlock do the work for you.

Machine Setting:Coverstitch wideAccessory Type: C

Fabric Type:Woven Medium or Knit Medium

Tension Settings:Left front needle A (Red) -6-Right front needle E (Green) -7-Coverstitch Looper (Purple/Peach) -3-

Serge:1. Snap on optional Coverstitch Hemming Foot. —

2. Measure and press a 1” hem along one edgeof your fabric.

3. Slide fabric into slot in front of foot with theturned under hem facing down.

4. Lower presser foot and sew hem, having leftneedle along cut or raw edge of hem.

Hint: For a designer or better ready-to-wear look,use the triple cover stitch.

The cover hem is ideal for both knits and woven fabric, as the cut edge on theunderside will be covered by the cover stitch.

Purchase the optional HusAylock Coverstitch Kit, which includes this footfrom your local Husqvarna Viking dealer.

I

76

SECTION IX

SPECIAL HINTS

Puckered Fabric:1. Check to be sure that the stitch finger is in the “N” normal position.2. Make sure the stitch width is set correctly for the weight of the fabric you are

working with.3. Make sure the tensions are set correctly. You may find the looper tensions or the

needle tensions are too tight.4. Try overriding the differential feet to 0.5 (page 34).

Skipped Stitches:I. Improper needle type. Be sure to use a Schmetz® brand needle(s). Do not use

Singer needles. Your Huskylock is timed to use only Schmetz brand needles.2. Machine may be improperly threaded. Re-thread and check all threading points.

Often times it looks right, but something hidden may be threaded incorrectly.3. Needle(s) may be dull or bent — insert new needle(s).4. Heavier fabric requires larger size needles.5. Increase presser foot pressure.

Stitches Show Through on the right Side of Seam:1. Needle tension is too loose. Increase the tension one number at a time and test.2. Machine is threaded while tension is engaged. Be sure to raise presser foot to

disengage tension and pull thread into tension discs.3. Needle is dull or burred causing a poor quality stitch. Insert new needles.4. Thread is not in thread guides or has slipped out. Check threading.

Thread Continues to Break:1. The number one cause of thread breakage is incorrect threading. Make sure the

looper take up lever is threaded correctly and all of the thread guides used arewith the correct color symbol.

2. Tension is too tight — reduce the tension slightly on the corresponding looper orneedle that is breaking thread.

3. Needle is dull, bent, burred — change needle after completion of each garment orlarge project.

4. Thread is caught on the spooi or is wrapped around the spool pin — use spoolcaps to help support the thread as it is being released.

5. Improper threading sequence — if a looper thread breaks, needle thread must beremoved from the eye of the needle before re-threading the looper.

6. Old brittle thread or rough and eneven thread could cause breakage.7. Check to make sure the thread stand is completely extended. Because of the

speed of the Huskylock, if the stand is not completely extended, thread breakagecan occur.

77

Threads Looping off the Edge of the Fabric:1. Slide stitch finger forward one or two markings to allow loops to lay along edge

of lightweight fabric.2. Looper tensions may be too loose — increase both looper tensions.3. Check to be sure that the thread is lying inside the tension discs. Be sure and raise

presser foot to release thread tensions while threading.4. Thread has slipped out of a thread guide — re-check all threading points.5. Cutter is cutting off too much fabric. Increase cutting width to a larger number

(wider width).Explanation: UZhy a’oes ibis happen? On some fabrics, such as T-shirt knits or other fineknits, the moving cutter (upper cutter) is drawing or stretching the knit as it is beingcut. When it “springs back” to its normal shape, loops form along the outer edge.

Adjusting Tensions:1. An easy association to remember when adjusting tensions is the upper looper lies

on the top side of the fabric and the lower looper lies on the under side of thefabric. The needle is the straight stitch.

Note: Whenever you have a tension problem there will be at least two threadsinteracting. Because of this, you will always have two choices: Increase one threadtension or decrease the other thread tension, but not both at the same time.Continue in this manner until a balanced tension has been reached.

2. You have just re-threaded your Huskylock. The tension before re-threading wasbeautiful but after re-threading one of the looper tensions is unbalanced.Attempting to adjust by tightening the tension dials does not work. When youpull on the thread coming out of the tension dials, there doesn’t seem to be anytension on the thread.

Explanation: When re-threading your Huskylock, always raise your presser foot torelease the tensions automatically and allow the thread to “seat” itself between thetension discs. If the thread is not seated properly in the tension discs, the tensionswill not adjust correctly or, the thread may pop out of the tension discs.

Machine is Jamming:1. Fabric is being inserted behind the cutter. Since the cutter is in front of the

needles, it must be able to trim the fabric before it is carried through to theneedle.

2. Thread is being caught under the presser foot. At the completion of each seam,let the Huskylock run so a tail is left behind the presser foot, or release tensionsby raising presser foot and pull out a tail of threads.3. Presser foot pressure is too light. Adjust this with the pressure release lever onthe left side of your Huskylock.

78

INDEX

Accessory Box .6Adjustable Cutting Width 25-26Adjustable Presser Foot Pressure.. . .5Adjustable Stitch Length 24Adjustable Thread Tensions 20-21, 73

Basic Sewing Techniques 22Bias Binder 75Bias Tape Folder 74Blind Hem 33Braid 41Built-Tn Thread Cutter 3

Casings 32Changing Needles 9Changing Presser Feet 5Changing Stitch Length 24Changing Stitch (cutting) Width 25-26Cleaning 7Corded Overlock 30Corners:

Tnside 29Outside 28

Cover Stitch 62Chainstitch 65Hem 76Narrow (3mm) 63Set-Up 61Triple (tn) 64rjde (6mm) 62

Cutters 6Disengaging 6

Cutting Width 25-26

Decorative Thread Edging 40-52Differential Feed 34-36

Elastic Applications 44

Elastic/Taping Foot 68

Fabric Chart 10Fine Tune Stitch Width 5Fishiine Ruffles 50Five Thread Overlock 60Flatlock Sewing:

Fringe 45Lace 43Lingerie Elastic 44Three Thread 42Two Thread 57

Foot Control 4Four Thread Overlock 23Freearm 7Fringe 45Front Cover 4

Gathering 37Gathering Foot 69

Handwheel 5Hem:

Blindhem 33Casing Hem 32Rolled Hem 46,58Hemming Foot 76

Huskylock Parts 3

Inside Corners 29

Jamming 73

Knit Fabrics 36

Lace Application 43Ladder Stitch 42Length, Stitch 24Lighweight Fabrics 35Lightswitch 4Loopers, Threading 16-17

Maintenance 4Memory 13

Storing, Retreating,Deleting. 13

79

Multipurpose Foot .3

Narrow Overlock 38,56Needle Chart 10Needle Insertion 9Needle Positions 9Needle Selection 10Needle Replacement 9Needle Threading 18

Oiling 7Optional Accessory Feet 67-71Outside Corners 28Overlock, 2-thread 56

Pearl/Sequin Foot 67-68Picot Edge 47Piping Foot 67,73Pintucks 53Plackets 49Power 4Presser Foot:

Changing 5Lift 4Pressure 5

Presser FeetBias Binder 75Bias Tape Folder 74Blindhem 33Elastic 68Gathering/Shirring 69HemmerMultipurpose 33Pearl 70Piping (4 thread) 67Piping (coverstitch) 73Transparent Coverstitch 71Puckering 35,72

Ribbing 31Rolled Edge:

Novelty Threads 52Pokies 51Three Thread 46Two Thread 58

Safelock 39Securing Ends 27Set-Up

Coverstitch to Overlock 66Overlock to Coverstitch 61

Sewing Advisor 11-13Sewing Speed 6Shirring Foot 69Skipped Stitches 72Slit 49Spaghetti Straps 48Special Hints 72, 73Specialty Thread 30, 40, 52Spool Caps 14Stitch Finger Lever 5Stitch Length 24Stitch Plate 3, 61Stitch Width 5, 25, 26

Telescopic Thread Stand 6, 15Tensions 20, 21

Adjusting 21,73Testing Stitch 19Thread Breakage 72Thread Cutter 3Thread Nets 14Thread Selection 8, 10Threading

Changing Threads 61, 66Four Thread 16, 18Lower Looper 17Needles 18Preparation 14, 15Upper Looper 16

Three Thread Overlock 38Decorative Braids 41Decorative Edges 40Edge Finish 38Fishline/Ruffles 50Flatlock Seam 42Flatlock Lace 43Flatlock Lingerie Elastic 44Flatlock Fringe 45NarrowEdge 38,54

80

Picot Edge .47Pintucks 53Rolled Edge 46Safelock 39Shell Edge 54Slit/Placket 49Spaghetti Straps 48Wire Edges 50

Trim Catcher 71Troubleshooting 72-73Two Thread Overlock 55

Flatlock 57Narrow Edge 56

Rolled Edge 58Wide Overlock 56Wrapped Edge 59

Waste Tray 71Width, Stitch (cutting) 25-26Wire Edges 50Wrapped Edge 59

81

Huskyock 936FOUR-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH @D

HusqvarnaFIVE-THREAD OVERLOOK STITCH c

F INPORTANT: Light’y tighten unused screws so that they do not interfere with needle thread path.THREE-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH TWO-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH

COVER STITCH © (Triple) COVER STITCH © (Wide)

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.COVER STITCH © (Narrow)

17

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21 54009-129

Huskylock 936 Owners Handbook x

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Transcript of Huskylock 936 Owners Handbook x