How to Replace an ABS Control Unit

7/23/2019 How to Replace an ABS Control Unit

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How to Replace an ABS Control UnitSelect Vehicle

Note: This is a general guide for all vehicles.

Safety Tip:

Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE when

necessary! for e"ample late" gloves or close# toe shoes.

1

$ocate your vehicles %&' connection.

2

Plug your scan tool into the %&' connection with the key in the % position.

Photo may not )e

specific to your vehicle

3

*ather all trou)le co#es an# refer to a vehicle specific service manual for a trou)le co#e in#e" that #irects you to the

specific component.

4


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'isconnect your vehicle+s negative ca)le.

Photo may not )e


5

$ocate your A&S control mo#ule on the #river+s si#e front corner of the engine compartment.

Photo may not )e



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Photo may not )e


6

'isconnect (unplug the wiring from the A&S control mo#ule.

7

,se the appropriate tools to remove the mounting )olts that hol# the A&S control mo#ule in place.

8

-emove the faile# mo#ule an# replace with the new unit.

9

Plug in the wiring terminal )ack into the )rake A&S mo#ule.

10

-econnect the negative ca)le to the )attery.

11

-oa# test the vehicle. ultiple styles of #riving such as full throttle! i#le an# #eceleration are recommen#e# in or#er for

the )rake A&S mo#ule to relearn proper comman#s.

12

&e sure to clear all co#es present.

13

Turn off the vehicle.


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14

Turn on the vehicle.

15

/heck your scanner connection for any co#es remain present.

MKIII VR6: ABS Pu! and Module Reoval and Re!laceentPreface:

My ABS light was on and stayed on while driving. I located a used hydraulic pump and module unit

(you can separate them, I think) and replaced the whole unit. My car is a 1! "#I $%& with111,''' miles euipped with the #$S *' "I ABS system. #his system controls the ABS+-

(Antilock /rakes and lectronic i00erential -ock). n cars 2&3 (without a /rake proportioningvalve), the module also controls 0ront+rear /rake /ias. Apparently, the module is known to 0ail on

many other uropean cars including $olvo and Seat. A picture o0 the engine /ay is /elow.

#he num/ers and codes 0rom my ABS module are4

"o!onent: ABS+- I##A*' "I $''

Module: 5A' '6 56

"ode: '56'7


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Tools re#uired:

1. $A"8M iagnostic tool or %oss#ech

*. #*9 #or: driver

5. 11mm line wrench (or 0lare nut)

7. 15mm line wrench (or 0lare nut)

9. 1'mm /o: wrench

&. ;ew hydraulic pump and module

6. Brake parts cleaner

!. *5 liters o0 /rake 0luid

. Brake /leeder or a clean glass


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ABS light on and stays on while driving. I used the $A"8M to read the 0ault codes (#8) and got

this 8ode4

=Fault code 01276: Hydraulic Pump - V64 Signal outside specifications

Things to chec% first:

#here are *, 19amp, 0uses at the top o0 the 0use+relay /oard. Make sure that they are not

/lown. Also there is another 0use in the main row o0 0uses that is related to ABS > check that one,too.

The !rocedure: &reoval'

1. ?irst, use the $A"8M tool and write down the num/ers and codes 0or your controlmodule. @ou will need this later

*. I suggest you do this on a cool engine, or you will likely /urn your 0orearms. I would alsorecommend


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11.#o install a new unit, simply reverse the removal process.

1*.A0ter installing the unit and attaching all the lines (donDt overtighten) and plugging in the

wiring harness you will need to re0ill the /rake 0luid reservoir and /leed the /rakes. Start withthe rear passenger caliper then do the rear driver, 0ront passenger, and then 0ront driver. A0ter

you /leed the /rakes, you will notice that you wonDt have a very good pedal 0eel (i.e., it will goto the 0loor). #hatDs H youDll correct this later. Be sure to keep the reservoir topped upduring the /leeding process to keep air out o0 the lines.

15.%einstall the /attery.

17.Ese the $A"8M to check the coding o0 your new ABS module. #he data should match thedata you copied down in step 1. I0 not, recode the module as necessary.

19.#hen cycle the pump using the $A"8M so0tware. #o do this, choose =ABS BrakesF 0romthe main menu. #hen select =#est utputF and 0ollow the onscreen instructions. #he

computer will cycle the pump, and then test each o0 the valve positions, one corner at atime. A0ter this is done, you should have good /rake 0eel again. IDve heard that running the

pump 0or more than 5' seconds or so could lead to the pump overheating and sus/seuentdamage, so accomplish this procedure reasona/ly uickly.


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1&.I re/led my /rakes to get any air released /y the pump, cleaned the calipers with /rake parts

cleaner, and $oil @our ABS light should /e out and your ABS will work again. uring the0irst road test, I noticed that the pedal was slightly mushy and had slightly greater travel. #his

went away a0ter driving the car 0or a day or so and /ecame very 0irm and con0ident 0eeling.

@MM$.

his is not meant to be a full 'how to', but rather to give enough information to enable a competent DIY-

er to decide whether or not to undertake repair of the ABS!S" unit following a '#$%& sensor failure' in

the ABS!S" hdraulic unit( )he information is taken from #erman forums and I've translated it into

!nglish( I assume that the repair kits sold in the *+ will come with !nglish instructions, so ust the

basics are given here(((

NEEDED:

epair kit1K0 698 517 B./0&$123A)4( Suitable as a replacement for the hdraulic blocks5

&+% 6&7 8&9 B, :, D, !, ;, , ?, ), AA, AB, A!, A@ )% 6&7 8&9, )C 6&7 8&9 A and $+ 6&7

8&9

Access to 3:DS or similar tool(

"ressure bleeding kit .e(g( #unson's !aBleed4(

DIAGNOSIS:

!S" light stas on irrespective of !S" switch position(

:onnect 3:DS(


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Cpen the braking :ontroller and go into =easurement Block 8 to monitor the brake pressure recorded

b the #$%& sensor( )he value of the brake pressure should be proportional to the pressure on the

brake pedal( Ehen the brake lights ust illuminate the value of the pressure shown in =easuring Block 8

should not be more than 7 Bar( If it is, then check the brake light switch andor perform a 'Basic

Setting' on the pressure sensor .see later4( If the pressure reading is stuck at a high value, irrespective

of the pressure on the brake pedal, then the #$%& sensor has failed and ou need to get the repair kit(

REPAIR OF ABS/ESP UNIT:

Disconnect batter earth lead and remove batter if it makes access to the ABS unit easier .depends on

model4(

emove the electrical connector from the ABS unit(

Cpen the front-left and rear-right brake bleed nipples(

Eith a stickpole wedge the brake pedal about 6%mm down from its resting position .this is to close off

the ports to the master clinder4(

:lose the previousl opened bleed nipples(

)ake a picturedrawing of the locations of the brake pipes as the connect to the ABS unit(

emove the brake pipes from the ABS unit - first the two pipes that enter horiontall and then the four

pipes that enter verticall(

*sing the bungs supplied with the kit, block off the ports in the ABS unit to avoid fluid spillage(

"ull upward and rotate the ABS unit out of its holder and remove from the car(

>ow replace the hdraulic unit with the new one supplied in the repair kit - this is simple .ust two long

setscrews, 6>m torFue4( Be sure to keep brake fluid awa from the electical contacts( DC >C) separate

the motor from the ABS unitG

Eith the new part fitted the ABS!S" unit can be refitted into the car(

efit the brake unions and refit the batter and earth lead(

emove the stick from the brake pedal(

:onnect 3:DS and clear an fault codes(

>ow use our pressure bleeder to 'pre-bleed' the hdraulics(@irstl open both front bleed nipples and bleed simultaneousl(

)hen repeat at the rear and bleed both rear brakes simultaneousl(

*sing 3:DS, connect to the braking controller( Eith >C "!SS*! on the brake pedal the pressure

reading in =easurement Block 8 should be within the range 2- (H Bar( If it is outside of that range

then go into =easurement Block 66, login with code 7% &6H and perform a ero-point calibration using

the 'Basic Settings' option(

@inall bleed the brakes in the conventional manner .one brake at a time, @, @, , 4 to conclude

the ob and perform a road test(

IMAGES.from the =otor-talk(de forum4


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Repair i! pa"a#e $a%e$:

Ne& '()ra*$i" *+i! ,-!i$$ &i!' pr.!e"!ie pa"a#i+# .+:

U+)er-i)e . !'e +e& '()ra*$i" *+i! ,pa"a#i+# re2.e) 3 !'e !&. '.$e- &'ere !'e

"$a2pi+# -e!-"re&- pa-- !'r.*#' are i-i%$e:


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Fr.+! . !'e +e& '()ra*$i" *+i!:

;ope this helps some doing the repair( )he instruction come in english and german and are ver poor

Fualit the pics are poor too(((but here are the instructions(

Instructions came with ABS repair kit &k%61H8&9B(

All health and safet not included and individual should have the necessr training to carr such work

and at our own risk( Supplied for info onl not as a guide(

&( #eneral >otes to the =+6%-p !S:

)he brake sstem is split diagonall( Brake boost is created from the vacuum servo booster( )he =k6%

unit .;!:*4 consistes of the hdraulic control unit .;:*4 and the electronic control unit .!:*4(

Seperation of the unit is onl possible after removal of the =+6% unit(

$( #eneral notes for removal(

)he change of components is onl permitted b Fualified personnel with the assistance of the service

and repair instructions of the C!=

3ehicle is standstill

*se on board diagnostics to find out whether the failure cause refers to a pressure sensor failure in the

;:* .dtc %&78 %61B4 JJJ.i );I>+ );IS S;C*D B! #$%&4JJJ


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)ake car of !SD .electro static discharge4

"ick spare parts out of package ust before assembl

Incorrect assembl can result is negative performance of braking sstem(

!nsure absolute cleanliness when working(

:lean surface of !:* with mineral oil prior to work

!nsure no fluid enters the electrical connector

Dont use compressed air when the sstem is opened or move car

!lectrical connectors at connector, pressure sensor and !:* as well as sealing elements must not be

touched(

emove all componenets that restrict acess to braking sstem(

:lose all hdraulic ports immediatel with appropriate caps after dissasembl of the !S: unit(

;!:* assembldiaasembl on work bench onl(

(;draulic-!lectronic control unit removal

Switch off ignition and disconnect #>D .earth4 pole of batter(

emove electronic connector b pulling out the lock on the connector and remove the connector(

"ush down on brake pedal approK 6%mm with a stickbar or the proper brake depress tool( )his closes

the )=: central valves and stops fluid running out of the open sstem(

:onnect bleed bottles to one front wheel and one rear wheel on the same side( Cpen the bleeder

nipples to decrease pressure that was built up in the brake sstem before(

Identif the pipes and remove the brake lines leading to the )=: at ;:* first( :lose open ports withincluded caps immediatel(

Identif the pipes and remove the brake lines to the brake circuits( :lose ports with caps(

oosen and remove screws securing the ;:* in the (((((((( bracket.unreadable4(

emove complete unit from bracket(

7( Diassemble !lectronic :ontrol *nit

oosen and remove both torK head screws( >ew ones inc in kit(

)he pump is not connected anmore be careful

;old tight the pump motor and ;:* and remove the !:* .so basicall ou are removing the bit that

never came with our repair kit &k%61H8&9B(

)he pump motor adapter can be torn out of the electronic controller during dissasembl due to

corrosion and remain in the valve block bore( In this case the complete ;!:* has to be eKchanged

If the !:* has damaged contact pins .!:* connector D: motor contact pins4 the !:* cannot be used

and a complete ;!:* has to be eKchanged

8 "repare new !:* and new ;:* for assembl


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In a re-assembled !:* the pressure sensor contact ma not be touched or damaged(

)he housing edge of the pressure sensor also must not be damaged .sealing element4

>o humidit or dirt are allowed to enter the !:*

Avoid !SD .electro-static discharge

6( Assemble !:*

Assemble used !:* and new ;:* without canting(

Secure !:* to ;:* with new torK screws 8(82%(8>m

.note ;!:* is not sealed before complete assembl4

9( ;!:* refitting

important- )he port covers and the pump motor assembl aid of ;:* should onl be removed when the

connecting pipe or brake line is read to be fitted( )his prevents dirt ingress and contamination of the

brake sstem and reduces fluid loss(Insert unit into the holding bracket and torFue securing nuts to H 2 $ >m

emove port covers and pump motor assembl aid and connect wheel circuit lines to valve block

ensuring each one is in correct place(

epeat process for master clinder pipes( !nsure connection go on sFuare to prevent cross threading

)orFue pipes to &-$%>m

econnect batter

:onnect !:* harness and lock connector

@ill brake fluid resevoir to =AL with Dot 7 brake fluid and bleed vehicle as shown in workshope manual:alibrate pressure sensor of ABS using 3ag-com3:DS

Switch on ignition and ABS and !S" warning lights should go out(

:lear the !S" fault using 3agcomvcds and rescan for faults(

Cne final test drive make sure that min, one brake ccle was done with ABS control .pulsation in brake

pedal must be felt4((((((I think this mean bleeding the ABS using 3agcom but m opinion onl(4

H( #enral notes for assembl(

Cnl use Dot 7 brake fluid(

SubseFuent to rework or repair of the brake sstem, completel check both the conventional and ABS


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parts for correct function according to workshop manual( :heck hdraulic ports and connection for

leakage(

.assembl and dissasembl of !:* and ;:* onl permitted for maKimun of siK times(4

)his guide is for information and not as a description of how to carr out this repair(

I've added a few bits of grammar here and there(((((I was never angood at english anwa( If

something does not compute let me know and I will check instructions again ust incase I made a

mistake( =ost of this process is in elsawin if ou have it(

ABS Control Module Replacement Service &Cost

What is an ABS Control Module all about?

ABS (anti-lock brake system) is a safety system that prevents your car from skidding or sliding when you

apply the brakes. There are two main components: the ABS speed sensors and the ABS control

module. When the brake is applied, the ABS control module reads the speed data from the speed

sensor and sends the correct pressure to each wheel to prevent any sliding/skidding (wheels locking

up). If the ABS module or one of the sensors goes bad, the ABS warning light will turn on and it will

disable the ABS. You will still be able to slow down and stop your car, but it will not prevent the wheel

from sliding when you apply the brakes (especially critical on wet or slippery surfaces).

How it's done:

Confirm that the ABS control module is bad.

Remove and replace the ABS module if needed.

Bleed the brake system.

Add new brake fluid.

Test drive the car.

Inspect the brake system.

Our recommendation:


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Follow the manufacturers recommendations on regular brake service for your car.

If the ABS light is on, get the ABS system inspected as soon as possible and avoid driving on

slippery roads (rainy days) completely.

During a brake service, your mechanic should make sure the sensor is free of debris and/or

grease, which could prevent the sensor from functioning properly.

What common symptoms indicate you may need to

replace the ABS Control Module?

ABS Light is on

Brakes are not working

Very hard brake pedal

How important is this service?

All services associated with proper function of your brakes are important. In addition to safety issues,

ignoring small repairs can quickly lead to more serious (and more expensive) problems.

How much does ABS Control Module Replacement cost?It depends on the type of car you drive and the auto repair shop you go to. Our mechanics are mobile,

which means they don't have the overhead that repair shops have. They provide you convenience by

coming to your home or office.

ABS Pump - Range Rover Classi

Pump:Wa)co 000! 1120! A3345! 5067830730373! T/79662

Electric otor: Wa)co 332! 551330! 3363! 0&&5! 0;

ABS relays+0uses ABS Cump+Motor ABS %emoval

Ah, the ABS motor and pump. -ovely little design, parts 0or which are kept under lock and key /ythe British M9 Service with people like ''6 making sure no re/uild parts ever 0all into the hands o0

the evil r. ;o, or his henchman (people like us.)

Jhat 0ollows is my attempt at making my pump last longer. It was making a very loud whineynoise. I o/tained a 0ailed pump, used, and used some parts 0rom it to make my own pump workproperly. I tried to source /earings and other motor /its, /ut to no avail.

I0 you have 0ound a source o0 parts 0or these little sons o0 /itches, please 0orward that in0o on to me,many, many people would /e made very happy i0 you did.
http://www.jpurnell.com/rr/repairs/abs_relay_and_fuses.htmhttp://www.jpurnell.com/rr/repairs/abs_pump.htmhttp://www.jpurnell.com/rr/repairs/abs_brake_conversion.htmhttp://www.jpurnell.com/rr/repairs/abs_relay_and_fuses.htmhttp://www.jpurnell.com/rr/repairs/abs_pump.htmhttp://www.jpurnell.com/rr/repairs/abs_brake_conversion.htm


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h, and it did work so 0ar... IKve had the pump apart 0ive or si: times now to 0inally get the /earing

cleaned up enough to 0reely spin. Jhen it is super cold out side (L19?), the pump will again start towhine, /ut when the am/ient temperature warms, the noise goes away. I plan on moving 0rom

Jisconsin to Miami to avoid the noisy pump pro/lem.... it would /e cheaper 0or me to move my0amily to ?lorida, then replace that damn pump.

8heers... ohn.

A&S pump! pressure switch! an# motor locate# on #river+s si#e (AS inner fen#er:< have the rear plastic wiring cover remove# on this pump.


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The infamous A&S motor! with its pants off= Well!

it+s not! unless you are trying to fin# parts to re)uil# it= This particular motor was frie# )y afaulty A&S relay that stuck on an# )urne# out the armature! )rushes an# the )rush hol#ers(plastic:


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The actual hy#raulic pump portion of the #evice. The silver piece is where the motor fits inso as to turn the pump. ?ou can see the impeller pump )earing on the outer #iameter.


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@ere < took off the silver motor coupling! the pressure switch is upper right with the electricalconnector:


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The electric motor on the left fits into the a)s pump on the right! )ut first the silver coupling

must )e set in the )lack pump )o#y:


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@ere are two A&S pump impellers! only one per pump. This is the part that actually )uil#s

)rake flui# pressure! ultimately charging the accumulator with high pressure )rake flui#:


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The impellers have little metal cylin#ers which fit in the si#e of the )lack #onut! when themotor spins them insi#e the pump )o#y! the metal cylin#ers are force# outwar# )ycentrifugal force. They are retaine# )y the )earing in the pump )o#y.

This )earing retains the metal cylin#ers as they are spun )y the motor! it+s har# to see here!)ut the center shaft on which the )lack pump cylin#er ri#es! is actually % /ETE- to the)earing. This allows a varying volume to )e create# )y the spinning metal cylin#ers)ecause they are constantly e"ten#ing out of an# retracting into the )lack pump cylin#er.$ook a)ove at the pics with the )lack pump cylin#er in the pump )o#y an# you+ll notice the

gap is %T constant )etween the )earing an# the )lack ring! this is where the )rake flui# ispressuriBe# as the motor spins.


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@ere a si#e view of the metal cylin#ers that create the pumping action.


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&lee#ing the pump after install is easy! Cust open the )lee# screw an# let gravity force outthe air! make sure your master cylin#er is toppe# off! an# clean )rake flui# will soon emergefrom the pump )o#y all over your nice inner fen#er well. anual says Duse clean a)sor)enttowels...D < say D...what a crock of )aloney=D


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;olvo A&S pumpo#ule failure

)he 3olvo A)! )eves ABS module is located underneath the main ABS pump and can be removed from it with a 7mmsocket( )he module can be rebuild and sent back normall within 7H hours and comes with a ifetime unlimited mileage

warrant.N

Ee have been rebuilding these modules for 3olvo main dealers and specialists for man ears now so ou can be assuredof our ver high standard of work( Ee alwas replace components with higher than standard spec to ensure a rebuilt unitwill never fail again.

4.$. ABS p*2p/M.)*$e ai$*re

1&163olvo H8% with )A:S $7ED ABS sstem1!*''13olvo :9%, S9% and 39% with )A:S ABS sstem

$7ED 3olvo ABS sstem1and newer 3olvo SH% with ABSS): sstem

EU T(pe- A)! )evesEU $."a!i.+5 @itted to the back of the ABS pump .held on with four torK screws that are easil removed with a 7mmsocket4.Pri"e:0&78 with two ear warrant

De$ier(:>eKt working da before &pm

)his is a ver common failure on all 3olvo ABS pumps built after &118, causing the ABS light to come on along with thetracs light if fitted( Ehen the fault codes are read there will usuall be a fault code blaming the high pressure pumpandor a fault code blaming one or more wheel speed sensors( )he fault is normall alwas the ABS module when thesefaults occur( Ee can rebuild our own ABS pumpmodule for 0&78 2 postage, or we can suppl replacement units fromstock .ring for replacment prices as the var depending on part numbers4

.

It is worth noting that the ABS module can be removed and the pump left in place thus alowing the vehicle to be drivenwith normal braking .no ABS4.

Ee will need our unit for approKimatel $ - working das to complete the full rebuild .times ma var depending oncurrent workload M demand4( If ou would like to arrange for our unit to be tested and rebuilt then please fill in this testform.

DIY - ABS Hyraulic Unit Repair - BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X):

'via Blog this'

I needed some wheels a few months ago so I took a chance on a 1998 BMW E36 (3 series) Estate. I bought the car for
http://www.ecutesting.com/ecu_test_form.htmlhttp://www.ecutesting.com/ecu_test_form.htmlhttp://www.ecutesting.com/ecu_test_form.htmlhttp://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=145202https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/pengoopmcjnbflcjbmoeodbmoflcgjlkhttp://www.ecutesting.com/ecu_test_form.htmlhttp://www.ecutesting.com/ecu_test_form.htmlhttp://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=145202https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/pengoopmcjnbflcjbmoeodbmoflcgjlk


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500 so did expect a few issues. Here is what has been replaced so far:

1. Brake pads

2. Brake pad sensors

3. Back shocks and 1 collapsed coil

4. Back wiper unit and control unit (still not working :-( )

5. ABS sensors, front and back

The ABS light is still on and I took it to a "guy" to reset the diagnostic code after the sensors were replaced.

Unfortunately it seems to be the ABS Pump at fault.

It seems this is a known issue so I will fix it myself when the rain and sleet stops in the UK.

Here are three articles I found.

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=145202

1 Re2.e !'e ABS p*2p ,'()r. *+i!

Disconnect the negative batter terminal( Sukc out as much of the brake fluid as ou can from the fluidresevoir .a turke baster works nicel4( )he pump is located beneath the master cclinder( You'll have toremove our =A@ from the throttle bod( It is >C) necessar to remove the brake resevoir or masterclinder( It is a good idea to label all the lines so ou know where everthing goes when ou reassemble(

You ma run into problems removing the hose clamps from the connections to the fluid resevoir( )his isactuall the hardest part of the whole DIY( B=E uses those lovel single-use sacrificial crimp clamps( You willhave to cut them off with our Dremel( DC );IS 3!Y SCEY A>D :A!@*Y, or ou will be buing a newfluid resevoir( Also be sure ou have some replacement screw-tpe hose clamps read for when oureassemble .unless ou are masochistic and want to intall new B=E crimp clamps4(
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=145202http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=145202


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Re2.e p*2p ,".+!i+*e)

)he pump is held in place b a single bolted rubber stopper in the front of the unit( )here are two morestoppers in the aft of the pump which fit into two retaining cups( oosen the front nut and tilt the frontupwards, and pull the whole thing out(

Earning5 Be prepared for fluid spillage(

Re2.e %.!!.2 p$a!e


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=arvel at our solenoids(

4. Test electrical connections

Refer to wiring diagram below. The diagram on the right (from Bentley) is only for 1995-96 without AST. The Table on

the left is compiled from the Teves Mk IV manual.

From the Teves Mk IV manual that you downloaded, you can determine the expected resistances across the various

valves. All the testing will be done at the 12-pin connector on the pump. You should be able to verify the faulty valve

from your diagnostic sheet.


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NNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN

5 Re2.e i$a2e+! &ire

*n-solder the filament wire( );IS );I> @IA=!>) is the culprit( Eith age it sometimes cracks or tears orcorrodes( Don't bother tring to find the break in the circuit, it is virtuall impossible to see(


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7 Re&ire !'e a$e-

;ere is the path for m particular unit( )his isn't an eKact tracing of the filament( I had to go the long wafor some wires .for eKample, ) to A to D to ! to B 4(

ewiring in progress

:ommentar5 After doing this little eKercise, I realie wh B=E went with filament wire instead of full-on gauged wires5 filament is

easier to install( )he entire circuit is pre-printed M mass produced on the conductor film all the assembler has to do is sauder all the pins in

order, much faster on an assembl line( >o need to route individual wires( )he drawback is that the filament eventuall corrodes or disintegrates,

causing a fault(


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8 4eri( (.*r &iri+#

Cnce ou are done wiring, re-test the resistances at the pins using the table in step 7 above( If ou dideverthing right, the readings should now be within spec(

http://www.stafordnet.net/repairs/bmw/abs_pump_rewire.htm

ABS Pump Rewire

his is how ! rewired m" ABS pump in m"#$$% B&' ()*i
http://www.staffordnet.net/repairs/bmw/abs_pump_rewire.htmhttp://www.staffordnet.net/repairs/bmw/abs_pump_rewire.htm


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Remo+e the pump b" ta,in- of the or % uid lines0 disconnectin- the electrical connector0 andremo+in- that one nut at the 1ront end o1 the pump assembl". a,es about #2 minutes to remo+e. !tmi-ht be easier i1 "ou remo+e an" little bits that are ho+erin- abo+e the pump assembl". ! too, of the&A3 and air tube and mo+ed some other stuf around to ma,e it easier.

Once it is off, take it to your bench and CAREFULLY clamp it in a vise or otherwise position it in a stable manner so

that you can remove the plate on the bottom. There are 6 torx headed bolts that you remove to get to this area of thepump.

This is what it looks like at first:

Note all the corroded flexi-cable.

Here is what it looks like after you carefully desolder and remove all the flexicable and rewire it:


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Here is a wiring diagram I drew up.


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All the solenoids share a common contact, and these are all tied back to pins 2 and 7 on the connector. Notice that

pins 2 and 7 on the connector are also common. I numbered these myself and these numbers mean nothing and do

not relate to any numbers you may find on the connector.

I started at the right side of the connector from the perspective that my pictures were taken and numbered it from right

to left. I did this also because the wires come into that connector from the right.

I have no idea what gauge of wire to use. I am obsessive, so I went bigger than I am sure you really need to. To do it

over again, I would buy a good grade silicone insulated wire so that you wouldn't have so much trouble melting the

insulation during the soldering job. We used 16 gauge, but I bet 18 gauge would be easier to work with and still meet

operating expectations as well.

I bled the brakes normally starting at the farthest wheel and working my way in. The normal way, having someone

pump then hold the brakes while I cracked the nipples. I went ahead and bled them until the fluid was clear so

effectively changing the fluid, but I don't think you HAVE to do it that way. Lots of people talk about shorting the relay to

activate the pump during bleeding, but I didn't do it, and I have used the ABS several times after this repair and it is

working fine and I still have normal brake pedal feel and pressure.

My ABS light went right off after we were done bleeding the brakes and started the engine.

Hope this helps you and good luck in your repair!


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Paul

4mail me

---------------------------------------------

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=341672

The defnitive guide to sel diagnosing your ABS/ASC light.

Look familiar?

If you're like me, one of your biggest pet peeves is a Christmas tree dash. Some people don't mind trouble lights on; I

am not one of those. I cant stand the feeling that something is wrong with my car.

A BMW dealer will quote you anywhere between 1-2 hours of diagnoses charges (@ ~$120.00/hr) to read your

ABS/ASC faults for you. If you are all about saving money, and learning something at the same time, you may find this

useful. I will show you how to find the faults in your ABS/ASC system using a simple multimeter without being at the

mercy of the dealer.
mailto:[email protected]://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=341672mailto:[email protected]://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=341672


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To start off, download the proper ETM for the year of your vehicle from TIS online. In this you will find the proper pin out

info for your year. Use this link:

http://www.bmwtechin1o.com/etm/data/e(%/e(%_$5.pd1

Change the year in the above link to match your vehicle. Example: if you are working on a '99 change it to:

"http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/etm/data/e36/e36_99.pdf"

You will need to remove your glovebox to access your ABS/ASC computer connector. Here they are:

Computer:

Connector:
http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/etm/data/e36/e36_97.pdfhttp://www.bmwtechinfo.com/etm/data/e36/e36_97.pdf


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Here is how the pin numbers are laid out in the connector:


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I ignored the assignments off to the left, they're wrong as far as my '97 was concerned. Use the ETM you downloaded

for the proper pin assignments for your vehicle.

For a '97 we refer to the following assignments for reference:


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Some of the most common things that will cause an ABS fault in your system are amongst the following:

1. A faulty wheel speed sensor

2. A bad ABS relay

3. A bad pedal travel sensor

4. A stuck/clogged solenoid valve

5. A faulty ABS pump motor

6. A bad brake light switch

Testing your wheel speed sensors.

Perform all of these tests with the ignition in position 3.

Our cars use Variable Reluctance type wheel speed sensors. In the tip of the WSS is a magnet and a coil that

produces an AC voltage proportionate to the rotational speed of the wheel. This signal is sent to your ABS computer

where it uses it to monitor the speed of your wheel rotation to decide when to activate/deactivate the ABS solenoids.

Test the sensor for proper resistance:

The specification for resistance of the sensors per BMW is between .5 -2 Ohms. Test this by identifying the proper pins

in your connector that apply to that sensor. Let's use the rear Right for example. Using the above pinouts we see that


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pins 10, 45 are the 2 pins for the sensor. To measure the resistance over the WSS, apply your black multimeter probe

to pin 10 and the red on pin 45. With your multimeter set on ohms you will get a reading. Do this on all 4 sensors. If the

sensor is out of spec for resistance, replace it.

Test the sensor for proper function:

With your multimeter set to read AC volts, remove the wheel, then unplug the sensor from the harness. Probe the + pin

in the connector on the harness side with red, and the ground pin with the black and spin the wheel. You should seeyour voltage produced increase with speed of the rotating wheel. Do this for all 4 sensors. If the voltage is not

consistent with wheel speed replace the sensor.

Veriy proper power supply to the ABS computer.

The ABS computer gets numerous 12V inputs from different areas all pretty much through the ABS relays/fuses. Using

your multimeter set to DC volts, connect your black probe to pin #1 on your connector and leave it there while you

perform the following tests. Referring again to the above pinouts, we see that we should have a 12V supply to the

ABS/ASC computer at pins: 3,16,33,35,51 with the ignition in pos. 3. Using your red multimeter probe, touch all of

these (may be different for your year) pins and verify that there is voltage there. If there is not, you have a bad power

protection relay (stuck open) and/or fuses, and your ABS computer is not getting power. Make sure that your ABS

computer is getting power by checking all the necessary pins for 12V. Your actual voltage will vary but it should be

close to the measured static voltage of your battery which is close to 12V but could be as low as 11 or more in some

cases depending on your battery. A voltage below 7 volts will trigger a fault code and turn your ABS/ASC light(s) on.

Test your ABS power protection relay.

Your abs power protection relay is an internally fused relay that is designed to blow and open when subjected to over

voltage protecting your ABS computer from damage. If the relay is bad you will not have any power at the pinouts

outlined above in the 12V power tests. If you do not have power in the previous test at the specified pins, this relay has

tripped. If this is the case, remove the relay, and test the pins again; you should have full power everywhere with the

relay removed. If you have power again after removing the relay; replace it.

Here it is:


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Some more in depth testing info:

The way this relay works is; when power is applied over pins 85, and 86 you energize the coil magnet and it closes the

relay. The closing of the relay is what completes the circuit and allows current to flow through it.

Make sure the diode in the relay works. A diode is a one way valve for electricity; only letting it flow one direction. Put

your multimeter on resistance. Put the red terminal on pin 30a, and the black on 30. You should see a resistance

reading between 50-100 Ohms. Now reverse your probes, putting the black probe on pole 30a and red on 30, you

should now see infinite resistance. If neither of the above cases is false, the diode is bad and warrants replacing the

relay entirely.

Test the continuity of the inner circuitry. Before energizing the relay, put your multimeter on continuity test. Red on pin

30 and black on 87a, you should register contact and hear a beep and/or signal that your multimeter makes to signal

continuity.

Power up your relay by adding 12v across pins 85/86. you should hear a click. If so, the circuits are closed. Verify that

they work by testing again for continuity, this time red on 87, black on 30. 87a no longer applies when energized

because it becomes disconnected when the relay closes.

Test your ABS pump inlet/outlet solenoids.

Do this with your ignition in pos. 3. Our ABS systems are 4 circuit systems. Each hydraulic circuit to each wheel has 2

solenoids. 1 to modulate inlet pressure and 1 to modulate outlet pressure. Referring to your proper pin out, select which

valve you want to test. Example, lets pick the inlet valve from the rear right. According to the above pinout, the pin to

control it is pin #39. Set your multimeter to measure resistance. Connect your black probe to ground (pin 1 or any other

ground pin) and the red one to pin 39. Specs for resistance for the valves are:

Inlet: 2-9 Ohms

Outlet: 2-7 Ohms

anything out of spec is likely a stock/clogged solenoid and would warrant a replacement abs pump.

Test your ra!e light switch


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With multimeter set on DC volts, probe pin 1 with black, and 32 with red. Push your brake pedal. With the brake pedal

pushed, you should have 11+ volts displayed. With the pedal at rest with no pressure you should have 0 volts.

Test your hydro pump motor or operation.

Do this with accy pos. 3 on. Measure the resistance between the 2 ABS pump sensor signals; pins 49, 50 in this case.BMW spec is 10-40 Ohms for the connection. Out of spec means new ABS unit. Within spec = continue reading. If

resistance checks out, go to your fuse box and pull your abs pump motor relay. Its the 5 pole relay, not 6 pole. Jump the

always hot pole to your pump supply line. (ID this by looking at the diagram on the side of the relay.) You should hear

the pump start up, if not, its nad.

ABS &odule replacement 672it8

Dang((( I, like man others got the dreaded DS:, ABS and Yellow Brake light on a Fuick run to the Ba Area

last week in m &111 87%it( As a bonus, I got a S!S light on the return trip(

:arsoft read the error as a right rear wheel sensor error(


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I replaced that wheel sensor to no avail( I was getting the lights when the car warmed up( .Although S!Sremained solid, no codes4 After reading more and talking to


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----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

@irst, remove the air filter housing to gain better access to the ABS module lower )orK screws( emove theairboK &%mm retaining bolt(

*nclip the retaining clips between the air filter housing and the =A@(


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*nscrew the =A@ hose clamp(

ift the right side .@ront facing rear4 of the airboK to remove it and the =A@ housing( Set both aside( Becareful with the =A@ and it's connectorwiring(

>eKt, remove the ABS =odule electrical connector( I used a screwdriver to slide the plastic retaining clip tothe right( It is a plastic retaining clip, so do be careful not to break it( It slides over about & &7 inches or so(Cnce the clip is full to the right, lift the electrical connector straight up to remove(


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emove the ABS module itself( )here are siK )$% )orK screws holding it in place( I used a )$% torK bit in a&7P socket and a 6P eKtension( P eKtension shown(

Cnce all siK screws are removed, pull the ABS module straight out towards the passenger side headlight(


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;ere's a shot of the old and new modules side b side( )he new module is on the right( >o visible damage onthe old module(

)here is a gasket attached to the new unit( :arefull place the new module over the control actuators(oosel replace siK new )$% )orK screws included with the new module( )ighten snug tight then a little moreto seat the gasket(


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eattach the electrical connector( "osition the electrical connector, lightl press down while pressing the

retaining clip in to the left(


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eassemble the Air @ilter boK and =A@(


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)hat's it( $6 minutes( .SiK min for pictures4 You're now read to head to an Ind or cooperating dealerto get the module coded to our car(

I wonder if an heat shielding to protect the ABS module would prolong its service lifeQ(((

Ehether ou rebuild our failing unit or get a new one, in the end, the are eas to replace(

;undai ABS - Auto epair :odes

Scan )ool for :odes and ive Data for our ;undai ABS from O611 *SD

)he information below ma appl to ;undai antra and man other models

.++e"!.r Dia#ra2

>ote5 You ma need the ennacs *ni"lug and *ni"lug specific software(9:lick herefor more info(

A*!. Repair Ma+*a$ 3 .& !. rea) ".)e- ,N. Spe"ia$ T..$- Nee)e)

>ote5If the ABS warning light does not flash it means there are no fault codes(

1 #round terminal &8 as shown in the diagram to our left(

)urn ignition C>, the ABS warning light should be flashing(

ead codes as described in the :ode @ormat Description below(

"ress the continue button to enter the code numbers and get the code description(

)ip5You ma use pins 7 and 8 as ground for this connector(

.)e F.r2a! Dia#ra2

.)e F.r2a! De-"rip!i.+
http://www.rennacs.com/index.phphttp://codes.rennacs.com/UniPlug-info.phphttp://www.rennacs.com/index.phphttp://codes.rennacs.com/UniPlug-info.php


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; :ode seFuence begins with a $ second flash(

; !ach following code is made up of two series of flashes(

; )he long flashes indicate the 'tens' digits(

; )he short flashes indicate the 'ones' digits(

; A long pause separates each code seFuence(

; Cnce ever code has been displaed the code seFuence repeats(

; :ode @ormat Diagram shows code >o( &$(

)o move to the neKt screen click on the :ontinue button

:ontinue R

>ote on !Kample =odel.s45 ;undai antra)he eKample model.s4 shown, ;undai antra for this auto repair service are onl an indication to help ou()here ma be man other models that appl to this connector( :lick above link to see the complete vehiclecoverage list.

Back

All content copright ennacs imited, $%%1( All products names mentioned herein should be consideredregistered trademarks of their respective owners
http://codes.rennacs.com/FaultCodes.php?erasepagecount=1&erasepage0=plugins%2FHyundaiABS%2FERASING.php&reference=HYUNDAI-ABS-21http://codes.rennacs.com/Japanese-coverage.phphttp://codes.rennacs.com/FaultCodes.php?erasepagecount=1&erasepage0=plugins%2FHyundaiABS%2FERASING.php&reference=HYUNDAI-ABS-21http://codes.rennacs.com/Japanese-coverage.phphttp://codes.rennacs.com/Japanese-coverage.php

How to Replace an ABS Control Unit

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